Do-it-yourself construction of a frame bath in the country house. Do-it-yourself frame bath: step by step instructions

Every owner of a suburban area knows about the benefits and pleasure that bath procedures bring. That is why many strive to ensure that they have this building in their own use. But not everyone has the opportunity, time and finances to build this structure of brick or logs. Construction will be the way out. frame bath with your own hands. If you correctly approach the issues of insulation and waterproofing, then it will serve for a very long time.

Table: advantages and disadvantages of a frame bath

Construction design and material selection

Any construction begins with planning and procurement of materials. To start shopping, you need to develop a plan.

To draw up a drawing you need:

decide on a place;
study the soil in this place, as it affects the choice of foundation;
determine for yourself which design will be optimal for you.

Include standard bath rooms in your project: dressing room, vestibule, shower room and steam room. The location of the stove should also be indicated on schematic representation baths.

making out project documentation don't miss a single detail. Indicate absolutely everything - from the type of ventilation and features of the chimney to the materials used for interior, exterior and roofing.

At the design stage, determine the dimensions of each of the rooms, indicate them on the diagram. At the same time, consider how many people will be in the steam room at the same time. It should not be too crowded, but it will be difficult to warm up an overly large bath.

The optimal steam room is considered to be with dimensions of 2400x2000 mm with a ceiling height of 2200 mm.

Often, those who like to take a steam bath make up projects with additional premises: a relaxation room, a billiard room, a swimming pool, etc. A bathroom in the bath will bring additional convenience during the adoption of bath procedures.

Video: how to draw a frame bath for a summer residence

Do-it-yourself foundation building technology

For a frame bath, you can use any type of foundation.

pile

Very easy to build and reliable. Used for small and light structures. Gained its popularity due to low cost and quick construction. When choosing a foundation important parameters are the depth of soil freezing and occurrence ground water. Piles should be placed deeper than this level. In addition, for greater reliability, reduce the distance between the support points as much as possible. Get ready to dig deep.

There is certain subtleties use pile foundation:

This type of foundation is best suited for unstable soil (sand, peat). In this case, the supports are dug into the soil to the depth where there is a solid stable support. Thus, the weight of the structure will fall on good soil.
Where the soil freezes below 1500 cm, piles are an excellent foundation option.
If the ground surface is uneven and very hilly, then the construction on a columnar base will also be the only way out. In this case, you will not have to perform a large amount of work to level the site.
Another type of soil that is ideal for pile foundations is dense. In order to dig a trench or a foundation pit in it, you will have to make a lot of effort. And drilling wells for piles is much easier.

Table: types of piles

Photo gallery: types of piles

Bored piles are most often used in the construction of baths. Screw metal piles can be mounted independently
Driven reinforced concrete piles are not suitable for a bath

Location and dimensions of piles

The key locations for piling are the corners of the building, the places where outer wall connects to the wall and, of course, it is necessary to install intermediate pillars along the length of the walls. The distance between the supports must be at least 2 m, so that the bearing capacity of the foundation is not violated.

You should not make poles with a diameter of less than 20 cm. The larger this parameter, the better it will be bearing capacity foundation.

To understand how long the posts are needed, you need to know:

how deep does the soil freeze?
at what depth does reliable non-floating soil begin.

The level of freezing for a certain region is practically unchanged. But in order to deal with the state of the soil, test drilling will come to the rescue, which will show everything.

Step-by-step instructions for building brick piles

Rubble stone or bricks are also often used to create a foundation. They are fixed to each other concrete mortar. It is worth placing such pillars using the same technology as piles. This also applies to the distances between them. The corner posts are made square (380x380 mm), and the intermediate ones are rectangular (380x250 mm). They should rise 300–400 mm above the soil and go 250–300 mm deep.

All work on the construction of the foundation takes place in several stages:

This is the most common foundation option. And not only for the construction of a bath. He gained his popularity due to the ease of construction. Ideal for non-flowing immovable soils, with deep groundwater.

To build a bath, it does not need to be deepened too much, especially if the soil does not freeze much.

If the bath stove requires a separate foundation, then it is better to start building it together with the foundation for the entire building.

Follow the steps in the following sequence:

Pour concrete mix from a height of 500 mm or less. This way the concrete won't break.

Formation of the floor structure and its thermal insulation

You can increase the service life of the bath if you follow detailed instructions for floor installation. This will avoid heat leaks and rotting floorboards, as well as minutes of other unpleasant consequences.

To install the bath, follow the instructions below:

The floor for the shower is done a little differently:

Do separate foundation for the washing room. This ensures that the floor in it will always be warm and dry quickly.
Remove the soil layer (0.5 m), make a sand and gravel cushion 10 cm thick in this pit.
Make floor logs from asbestos-cement pipes, the diameter of which is 100 mm. They can be laid on the foundation and poured with concrete mortar, which will keep them from moving.
Lay a round edged board 40-50 mm thick on the pipes. Leave gaps between them for rubber gaskets of about 6–7 mm. They are attached to the boards with nails.
Press the floor with skirting boards.

Video: how to make a drain in the bath floor

How to calculate and build walls

Now that the base has hardened, the floor is done, you can begin to build the skeleton of the walls of the bath. To start this work, the wood must be well dried. It is not recommended to take birch for these purposes, since it is subject to rapid decay.

Before proceeding directly to the construction of walls, it is recommended to carry out a preliminary calculation of the material. At the same time, remember that it must be purchased with a margin. The construction of the walls takes place in the following order:

Get started with bottom strapping. For its installation, purchase strong bars, the cross section of which is 100x100 mm. Connect them at the corners in a quarter, fasten them well with nails. To prevent the bottom trim and attached corner posts from moving, place them on 20 mm thick steel pins that need to be embedded in concrete.
The beam of the same section is used to create the upper trim.
For greater rigidity of the frame, install eight braces in the corners of the bath.
Along the perimeter of the walls, place intermediate racks from the same beam that was used to make the strapping.

In order not to work at height, experts recommend building and fastening the frame of the walls on the ground, and then simply lift them, insert them into place and secure. It's much more convenient and faster.

How to install a truss system

For the construction of the roof frame, it is necessary to prepare boards with a section of 150x50 mm. They are placed on the edge and fastened to each other. The distance between the rafters should be 100–120 mm. In a vertical position, fix them with “kerchiefs”, connect them from above with a ridge.

Outside, about 400 mm of beams must be left.

For the roof sheathing, boards of 250 mm are suitable. Fix them in the direction from the ridge down.

The rafters are fastened with special metal plates.

For ease of installation, assemble the entire "skeleton" of the roof on the ground, and then hoist it into place, as is the case with walls.

Proper and practical insulation: detailed instructions

The frame structure is very light, therefore, the insulation must also be appropriate in order to avoid deformation of the walls.

When choosing a heater for a bath, you must adhere to several rules:

the material must have good thermal insulation properties;
its properties should not disappear when exposed to high temperature and humidity;
there should be no release of toxic substances;
it must be fireproof.

Table: which insulation to choose

Name	Description
	Despite the fact that mineral wool is not heavy, it is still not recommended to use it, because when combined with facing materials it can get pretty heavy. Mineral wool is formed by plexuses of thin fibers, which are obtained by melting rocks or from waste from metallurgical production. When these fibers are intertwined, there are empty air spaces between them. It is thanks to this that mineral wool has good thermal insulation properties. The material has a high melting point inorganic substances so it can be used in the bath. High humidity also does not harm mineral wool.
	Natural material. Distinguished by its environmental friendliness. It has high thermal insulation properties. The thickness of the plates is 150 mm. it convenient size for warming frame structures including baths.
Sawdust-gypsum composition	This type of insulation is made by mixing 10 parts of sawdust, which are thoroughly dried beforehand, and 1 part of gypsum or cement mortar. good value price quality. You can do it yourself.
	It's cheap and lightweight materials, it is easy to mount and customize right size, has excellent thermal insulation properties, impervious to moisture. However, this material does not tolerate high temperatures well, so it is better for them to insulate places remote from the furnace.

Photo gallery: types of thermal insulation material

Expanded polystyrene cannot be used near the oven. You can make sawdust-gypsum mixture yourself Reed slabs are natural insulation Plates mineral wool do not change their properties under the influence of high temperature and humidity

Bath warming steps

It is worth insulating the walls of the bath at the stage of building walls. Thermal insulation material is laid in the gaps between the load-bearing parts of the building frame. Waterproofing is laid on top of it. Thus, a “pie” is obtained, in the center of which there is a heater, outside - waterproofing, on both sides - lining.

Experts advise laying insulation in two layers, one of which comes in the form of plates, and the second in a roll. Thus, all unnecessary gaps are removed, and the bath will be really well insulated. It should be noted that these materials have an inner and outer side.

Insulation options around the stove

This is the place where the temperature reaches its highest point. Therefore, the walls here should be additionally protected from fire. Some use asbestos plates for this. Others feel that this material is not very useful for human body and recommend using basalt or isolon. But all types of materials perfectly cope with exposure to high temperatures, protect the walls of the bath from unpleasant consequences.

Floor and ceiling insulation

This work can be done in several steps:

Tamp the soil carefully. Pour a concrete screed base on it.
Lay a layer waterproofing material(roofing material or dense polyethylene).
Install thermal insulation.
Cover again with a layer of waterproofing.
Pour upper layer concrete screed.

Thus, you will make a draft floor. It can be additionally worked out with waterproofing solutions, after complete solidification. This will additionally protect the floor from moisture ingress through microcracks in the concrete and extend the service life.

The ceiling is insulated using the same technology as the walls:

Waterproofing

In addition to the fact that the walls need to be insulated, they also need to be protected from moisture. Two reasons contribute to this:

From exposure to moisture, any insulation to varying degrees begins to lose its thermal insulation qualities. And for a bath, this is not very good.
Heat-insulating materials dry for a long time after contact with moisture. From this, mold and rot can appear, which can go to the frame.

As a vapor barrier material, you can use:

aluminum foil (it not only protects against moisture, but also reflects heat);
glassine, which is environmentally friendly, is inexpensive;
polyethylene.

Roofing material can be used as waterproofing. But it is not recommended for finishing the bath, because under the influence of high temperatures it begins to smell unpleasant.

The vapor barrier material must be laid with an overlap, and the joints must be glued with metallized adhesive tape.

Video: what mistakes can be made when laying vapor barrier

External and internal decoration of a summer or winter bath

The frame should not only serve you for a long time but also be beautiful on the outside.

The interior lining should not only be beautiful, but also withstand high temperature and humidity. Lining made of coniferous wood will perfectly cope with this task. Just don't use it in a steam room as it can release tar. Larch lining is more suitable here.

Linden is a great option for finishing the ceiling and making shelves and deck chairs.

Video: how much and what you need to spend money on when building a bath

What could be more pleasant than after the work done at the summer cottage, take a steam bath in your own bathhouse, wash off the dirt and relax your body and soul? Of course, a chic bathhouse with a pool in the country is a luxury that is unaffordable for many, so you should take a closer look at the projects of small structures and build what you like with your own hands, investing a minimum of funds and getting the maximum benefit and pleasure.

A small bath can be built according to frame technology, lay out from foam / gas / cinder blocks, bricks, lay down a log house from a log or timber. The most environmentally friendly material is wood, but bricks and blocks are more durable, reliable and fireproof.

Table. Comparative table of prices for materials for the construction of bath walls

Brand/Model/Type/Grade	Size/section, mm	Price in rubles
M150	25012065	RUB 16.90 per piece (pallet 240 pieces)
First grade	1001006000	The price for 1 m3 is from 5500 to 6700 rubles.
First grade	1501506000	5500-6900 rub. for 1 cubic meter.
First grade	401006000	7500 rub. per 1 m3
2.3 grade	401506000	5500 rub. per 1 m3
-	912502500	548
-	1212502500	802
-	6025050	40 rub. per piece (133 pieces in one cubic meter)

Prices for foam blocks

foam block

Economy bath project

After reviewing the prices of materials, you can see that it is more profitable to build a bath from blocks or Canadian technology. Moreover, the latter will be more profitable if some of the materials are used or low-grade (for example, instead of edged boards, you can use unedged ones, adding color country bath). More accurate data on the consumption of materials can be obtained after the preparation of the project and estimates.

It is extremely important to think over the design of the bath before starting construction, calculate the amount of materials, note all sizes and at the same time plan not only the location of the premises, but also the furniture in them.

Device shelf in the steam room Bath size selection

The main room in any, even the smallest bath is a steam room. There are necessarily shelves in two or three floors and a heater. Even country cottage area small, and it is planned to install a very modest bathhouse, the steam room cannot be made with an area of 3-4 square meters based on the simultaneous stay of two people (it should be convenient for visitors to bathe with brooms, sit and lie on the shelves in full height). Such norms are due to safety considerations (in a very close steam room it is easy to get burned on a red-hot stove or scald the skin with hot steam).

Also, if the entire stove is completely located in the steam room and fuel is loaded from the same room, it is worth increasing the usable area of the room by another 1-2 meters so that it is convenient to store and throw firewood into the firebox. Directly in front of the stove, a pre-furnace sheet measuring 1x1 m is necessarily laid, which is also noted on the plan of the future bath.

The bath certainly provides for water procedures, respectively, you should think about a small shower located in a separate room or adjacent to the steam room. The second option, when the steam room and the washing room are combined, allows you to save space and reduce the cost of installing sewer drains and interior partitions.

The last important room in the bath is the dressing room or dressing room. There should fit benches and hangers for visitors, a cabinet for bath accessories, perhaps a small table. It is also possible and preferable that the heater is located in the steam room, and the loading door goes into the dressing room, which saves on heating.

In the economy bath, you can do without:

plumbing system. But you will have to equip a stove with a tank and bring water in buckets by hand;
separate bathroom. These amenities can be taken outside or in country house if the bath in the country will be used only in warm time of the year.

But you can’t do without electricity and sewerage, so it’s advisable to order or build a septic tank / cesspool / drainage pit, and also to stretch the power line to the construction site of the bath, because bathing by the light of a candle is very inconvenient.

Be sure to indicate on the plan:

dimensions of the building and each room separately;
ceiling height and overall height of the bath;
the location of the furnace;
the sides to which the doors will open, including the furnace;
the location of the windows (in the steam room, the window is located at a height of 185 to 195 cm from the floor and not above the shelf);
the location of the socket and switch, shield and lamps (products with a moisture protection level above IP54 are used only).

Below are several projects of small one-story country baths.

Video - Designing a bath

Video - Bath project. Drafting

Construction of a small frame economy bath in the country

Let's start with the base of the bath - the foundation. Since the bath will be small and relatively light, it will not be necessary to fill monolithic slab or make a recessed reinforced tape. Enough for a one-story bath column foundation from blocks or asbestos pipes with concrete poured into them.

Stage 1. Markup

This stage is mandatory for any type of construction. We choose a place on the site where the bath will stand.

We take 4 pegs and a plumb line. Strictly vertically we drive the first stake into the soil, that is, we mark the first corner of the house. From this point we postpone the length of one of the walls, we hammer in the second stake. We tie both pegs with a cord.

Similarly, we put the third stake and the fourth. We check the equality of the marking diagonals, if necessary, we correct the stakes and the cord.

We also mark with a cord the places where the interior partitions will be located.

We arm ourselves with a shovel and remove the top layer of soil along with the grass inside the cast-off. Align the bottom of the resulting base horizontally, ram it.

Video - Marking the foundation

Stage 2. Foundation

Consider the option of arranging a columnar foundation made of concrete blocks measuring 20 * 20 * 40 cm. Their price ranges from 45 to 60 rubles per 1 piece. You can use ordinary bricks (13-16 rubles apiece), including used ones.

We take a drill or a shovel and start digging holes measuring 50x50 cm for blocks or 35x35 cm for bricks. The distance between the holes is no more than 2 m, the depth of each is about half a meter. Holes should be located at the corners of the house, under bearing walls and interior partitions.

We ram the bottom of each hole, fill it with a layer of sand, crushed stone (each layer is up to 10 cm) and repeat the compaction process again.

Crushed stone is poured with liquid cement milk. We stick one steel bar strictly vertically into the center of each hole.

We lay out bricks or blocks around the bar, 2 pcs. in every row.

The posts should rise 20-30 cm above the ground. We check the horizontalness of the entire base by pulling the rope and using bubble level. If necessary, we compensate for irregularities with a layer of cement mortar.

We cover each column with a piece of roofing material.

Stage 3. Economy bath frame

For the frame, you can use a beam of 100 * 100 cm or 150 * 150 cm. You should not save on load-bearing elements. It is also desirable to impregnate the wood with a fire-retardant composition.

The lower harness consists of 4 bars.

Connecting corners using the “paw” or “half-tree” method.

Connecting the bottom rails

We cut the threads on the reinforcing bars sticking out of the corner posts (the pins on the intermediate posts can be cut down). At the ends of the bars, we drill holes for these pins. We cut the ends of the bars according to the above scheme.

We assemble the lower harness by putting the bars on the pins. Tighten the nuts and locknuts from above.

Between the vertical beams we nail or fasten with self-tapping screws horizontal jumpers from a bar 50x50 mm. Corner posts we strengthen with jibs from a board 50x100 mm.

It remains to make the upper harness. To do this, we use a board 50 mm thick, which we fasten to the ends of the vertical beams with long wood screws.

Prices for wooden beams

wooden bars

Stage 4. Sex

Consider an example of arranging a non-leaking floor in a bath. In order not to waste time cutting lumber, we take fixing perforated corners, self-tapping screws and assemble the floor logs. We put boards 50x100 cm between the bars of the lower trim on the edge, maintain a distance between the lags of 40-45 cm.

Assembling the floor from the board in the “on edge” position for greater rigidity

Floor logs can be covered with OSB-3 sheets (approximately 480-550 rubles per sheet 1250x2500 mm and 9 mm thick) or use the same wooden planks from which the lags are made. AT draft floor it is necessary to provide a hole for mounting a drain ladder from a washing or steam room.

Be sure to stretch Isospan or another vapor barrier film under the wooden subfloor.

To insulate the floor, we fix logs again on top of the subfloor, between which we lay expanded clay, sawdust or red moss, cover the entire “pie” with a waterproofing film and assemble the finished floor from boards or moisture-resistant plywood (from 260 rubles for a sheet of 4 grades measuring 1525x1525 mm and 4 mm thick). The use of polystyrene as a heater, including packaging, is possible only in the dressing room.

Prices for Izospan

Stage 5. Roof

Before making a roof, we assemble the upper ceiling (ceiling). We use the same fasteners and boards that were used when installing the floor log.

It is better to make a gable roof for a frame economy bath. It will make the bath outwardly more attractive, and the space under the roof will be easily converted into sleeping place or warehouse for brooms. On the other hand, a single-slope structure will require fewer materials.

Templates for cutting rafters, racks, floor log

Table. Types of roofs, schemes

Roof type, illustration	Advantages	Description
flat or sloping	Saving materials, ease of assembly, the ability to operate the roof.	For baths up to 6 meters wide, it is permissible to organize flat roofs with a slope of 10-25 degrees and inclined rafters. The overlap is organized from coniferous bars from 100x100 to 150x200 mm. Laying step from 40 cm to 1 m. On top of the beams, a continuous crate without gaps is assembled from edged boards or OSB, then a crate is mounted for insulation - expanded clay with a layer of 10 cm or more, mineral wool or expanded polystyrene. Several layers of roofing felt or other moisture-proof material are laid on top of the insulation. The roof itself can be organized from a profiled sheet, boards treated with an antiseptic, etc.
Gable. Suitable for saunas >12 sq.m.	The possibility of using the attic for household purposes or for overnight stays. The roof is stable and durable	The angle of inclination of the roof is selected from 30 to 45 degrees, depending on the type of terrain. To install such a roof, the upper harness and Mauerlat must be made of timber. Rafter trusses are isosceles triangles with a jumper between the ribs (crossbar). The rafters rest on the Mauerlat and can hang down a maximum of half a meter. The rafters are sawn according to a pattern, assembled into trusses using metal fasteners and long self-tapping screws. The last trusses on the gables are attached first, then with an interval of up to one and a half meters - the rest of the rafters. On top of the rafters, a lath or board is stuffed, a vapor barrier is pulled, after which the roofing material, for example, a profiled sheet, is fixed.

Video - Roof Construction

Stage 6. Interior and exterior decoration

Table. Short description stages of insulation, insulation and finishing of an economy bath

Work order	Scheme	Description
		Styrofoam will provide the walls of the bath with additional rigidity and retain heat. For installation we use mounting foam and PSB-S-15. We cut out pieces of foam according to the distance between the racks of the frame, insert the foam between them, foam the slots. It is recommended to cut out the foam 0.5-1 cm larger than the existing openings in order to avoid gaps.
		We use slats 2x5 cm. We fasten them horizontally. Fixation is carried out with wood screws. The distance between the rails is taken equal to the width of the insulation.
		Between the laths of the crate we lay mineral wool slabs. We stretch a polypropylene cord over the mats, fix it with small carnations or a stapler.
		FROM outside the bath can be upholstered with OSB-3 sheets, which are subsequently plastered or painted. Finishing would also be an acceptable option. unedged board or siding.
		FROM outer side baths under a layer of finishing material we fasten an overlap of a windproof film (glassine can be used). FROM inside on the walls and ceiling we stretch foil vapor barrier with a thickness of 80 microns. We fix the overlaps of the strips with metallic tape.
Inner lining		The traditional material for interior decoration is lining. Economy option - aspen. Pine lining in a steam room is better not to use. It is permissible to sheathe the walls in the dressing room PVC panels or moisture resistant drywall and then paint.
Outer skin		As outer skin applied a lot interesting materials, for example, shingle or shingles. These are thin wooden boards that are fastened with nails to the walls, and the rows are fixed with a slight overlap (top to bottom). An environmentally friendly and economical solution.

Stage 7. Ventilation

Economy bath - for sure the room is compact, but this does not exclude the need for ventilation.

The air inlet hole is traditionally arranged near the heater, closer to the floor, and the installation of the ventilation valve is carried out simultaneously with the insulation and wall decoration. Air flow from the supply ventilation duct should fall on heating element ovens. It is especially important to equip effective ventilation if the firebox door does not go into the dressing room, but into the steam room.

fume hood air vent should be closer to the ceiling. The hood must be equipped with a damper. The air outlet is organized according to ventilation pipe on the roof, the head of the pipe is closed with an insect net.

Natural ventilation can be organized through small window located at a height of 185 cm above the floor. Ventilation will take place with the windows and doors of the premises open.

Video - Ventilation in the bath

Prices for bath fans

bath fan

Stage 8. Sauna equipment

Having assembled a bath with your own hands, make a metal stove with a heat exchanger and an external water tank. The main thing is to lay asbestos cardboard on the floor and wall behind the stove during installation, close it steel sheet to prevent spontaneous combustion of wooden surfaces.

Calculation of the load on the floor and rafters for a single metal furnace it is not necessary to do it, the construction of the floor from a log of 150x50 mm in increments of 45-50 cm and a floorboard 5 cm thick will perfectly withstand the heater.

Wiring in the bath is laid either before finishing walls ( hidden type), or after (external). Lamps and sockets are purchased and installed strictly waterproof, class above IP 54. It is required to install a separate electrical panel and protect all cables from moisture.

Prices for asbestos cardboard

asbestos cardboard

Other interesting projects of economy baths

A very unusual, but no less comfortable barrel bath is a cylindrical wooden structure on two supports, inside divided into 2-3 compartments, the farthest of which is a steam room. The bath is mobile, takes up little space, economical and economical (it takes very little fuel to heat a small steam room).

Turnkey barrel baths cost from 35 to 220 thousand rubles. In practice, to assemble such a bath on your own, it takes half as much money and not much time and effort at all.

The assembly and disassembly of the bath is possible due to the used boards 45x90 or 50x90 mm with a tenon-groove connection. The length of the barrel, depending on the boards used, is 2.5-5 meters. The fixation of the structure is carried out with metal hoops-screeds. Additionally, the bath can be equipped with a porch, a roof, a visor.

The water in the bath-barrel is discharged through the holes in the floor. If you plan to install such a bath in the country, it is worth removing the layer of soil, filling it with rubble, ramming it, and installing the bath itself on a pair of stable massive concrete blocks. Furnace installation rules, electrical wiring are standard for any type wooden baths including economy class.

It often happens that the first building that homeowners erect on their site is a bathhouse. And if there is a question about using new technology then you definitely want to try it. new way construction on your land plot. In this case, what a novice builder needs. How to do frame bath with your own hands?

DIY frame bath

The bathroom is different small size and is therefore relatively inexpensive. gives you the opportunity to try, feel, get acquainted closely with the features of the construction frame houses. A do-it-yourself frame bath is being built using a fairly new technology, which gives homeowners the opportunity to hone this construction technology and then build their own residential frame house without errors.

We build a frame bath step by step.

Let's talk about how to build a frame bath with your own hands. We will write out the step-by-step progress of the work, which will be similar for other frame structures.

Do-it-yourself frame bath project

Since the frame bath is an economic, auxiliary building and most often experimental at the first performance of work, they often do not order for its construction. individual project frame bath, and use the finished one. In order to prepare your own drawings of a frame bath with your own hands, you need to be an architect, an engineer. And the finished project allows you to build a bath correctly without special education.

The scheme of the frame bath 3 by 4

For example, let's take a 3x4 frame bath project. It contains 26 pages containing tables, diagrams, drawings, sketches, specifications, lists and descriptions. The project consists of two sections - architectural and constructive, each of them has a text and a graphic part.

The architectural part of the frame bath project

Drawings of external facades with height and width dimensions of walls, windows, doors.
Floor drawings interior spaces with sizes.
Roof plan - with the dimensions of its perimeter, overhang, angle of inclination.
Explanatory note, which provides recommendations for fire safety, plumbing, electricity.

Steam room location.

Additionally, do-it-yourself frame bath 3x4 finished project, provides for the development of a plan for linking the bath to the terrain: location on the site, distance to the boundaries of the site, location drain pit and distance to it.

Structural part of the frame bath project

The structural part is practical guide to the construction of a frame bath.

Foundation scheme.
Schemes of floors and ceilings, truss system.
Description of the methods of joining frame elements and fastenings of wall and roof panels.
Do-it-yourself frame bath project includes engineering networks: ventilation, power supply, heating, water disposal.
Specifications with a list of materials, their dimensions, characteristics.

The finished project of the frame bath gives the following advantages:

Drawings, plans and descriptions comply with building and fire regulations, which means that they ensure the reliable and safe functioning of the premises.
The above project allows, with minimal building experience, to build a step-by-step frame bath with your own hands - reliably and correctly.

Capturing the location of the premises.

The phased construction of the bath

Do-it-yourself frame bath 3x4: step-by-step instruction consists of the following construction operations.

Design.
The foundation is often screw piles.
Assembly frame house over piles and grillage.
External wall cladding.
Roof.
Insulation and mandatory vapor barrier. The durability and comfort of the bath depends on its availability and reliability.
Doors and windows.
Internal walls and decoration.

And now we will tell you in more detail about each stage of the implementation of the project, how a frame bath should be built with your own hands: step by step instructions.

Foundation and its waterproofing

On most do-it-yourself going to screw piles. Such a foundation is optimally suited for a small light structure, it allows you to place a bathhouse directly on the river bank. It also requires less cash costs, and therefore a do-it-yourself frame bath is assembled cheaply.

The foundation for the frame bath.

In another version, a frame bath is used concrete foundation with grillage. When building such a foundation, it is important to ensure its protection from water and moisture. Firstly, the base of the bath is located in the ground and is in contact with ground moisture. Secondly, while using the steam room, its floor gets wet. Given that the bath is a building with periodic use, it is important to prevent moisture from penetrating deep into the foundation material.

Protection against water and moisture determines the durability of the foundation. When cooling and freezing, the moisture in the pores expands and creates cracks. After several cycles of freezing-freezing, the material begins to crumble. Within two to three years, the foundation of the bath may become unusable.

Most a budget option waterproofing - roofing material over wood or concrete. More reliable way- coating with concrete or wooden surface waterproof mastic. The most effective and reliable way is to impregnate the base with a moisture-resistant mixture of the Penetron type. However, it is used only for concrete grillage. wooden beam cannot be used with this mixture.

House wall frame

A simple do-it-yourself frame bath is built on the basis of the frame. It acts as a "skeleton" on which the walls of the building will be held. The supporting "skeleton" of a 3x4 frame bath will consist of:

Two horizontal rows - lower and upper strapping.
Eight vertical supports installed at the corners of the building and in the middle of its walls.
Ukosin for vertical fixation of bearing supports located at an angle.

Do-it-yourself frame of a frame bath.

It is also important to protect the wooden beams of the bath from moisture. To do this, they need to be impregnated with moisture-resistant impregnations. After installing insulation wooden frame will also be protected vapor barrier film, which is attached to the inside of the heat-insulating material.

After assembling the frame, for its reinforcement and strength, the walls are sheathed with external wall panels. This ensures the stability of the walls against lateral shear. Which is especially true when building in an open area, blown by the winds.

On a note

The assembly of the frame and the hanging of the outer panels are carried out as quickly as possible, during a period when there is no rain or other precipitation.

The roof of the frame bath

roofing material budget bath choose according to two criteria - weight and price. It should have a low price and small specific gravity. For frame houses, metal profiles or metal tiles are often used. These roofing materials- light, bright, beautiful and durable, with one drawback - they are quite expensive.

Frame bath with a roof under the barbecue.

Do-it-yourself frame bath roof can be mounted with affordable OSB panels. They are relatively inexpensive, but require protection from atmospheric moisture. The roof of the frame bath is covered with roofing material. After that, if desired, bitumen can be put on top of such a roof. Or replace the old roofing material with a new one after a few years.

The second option for building an inexpensive roof is not edged boards. They are overlapped, providing water flow from top to bottom. This is the most inexpensive lumber, which will also require protection from moisture. Such a roof must be painted annually.

On a note

What else to consider: the roof of the building must have a sufficient overhang. That is, the distance between the edge roofing and the wall should be 600-800 mm.

Warming and vapor barrier

The pros and cons of a frame bath are determined by the quality of its insulation. The right choice heat-insulating material, the method of its installation in the wall, floor, ceiling. The frame bath must retain heat, and the insulation determines its ability to keep it indoors.

A frame bath is a great option for those who want to build an inexpensive bath with their own hands. If you make good steam and heat insulation, then it will not be inferior to buildings made of bricks and logs.

A do-it-yourself frame bath is a budget option, it does not require in-depth knowledge in the construction industry and the use special tools. The build is pretty easy and fast.

Building a frame bath: advantages and disadvantages

Advantages frame structure:

saving. The construction of a frame building will be cheaper than or other materials. For frame structures, a particularly strong foundation, expensive materials and complex drawings are not needed;
high build speed. Lack of complex design features reduces the time spent on the construction of a bath. You can do both external and interior decoration. On average, construction takes only a few weeks;
construction can be carried out at any time of the year;
no need to hire a construction team. Building a frame bath with your own hands is a simple process that does not require special skills;
good level of thermal insulation. In just 2-3 hours, the steam room will completely warm up, other types of baths need twice as much time;
fuel economy. Since the frame bath warms up faster, it needs fewer logs;
wide selection of finishes. The frame can be sheathed both inside and out with a variety of materials, which helps to give the building a unique look. For example, exterior decoration can be done using tiles, boards, siding and even plaster;
no shrinkage, so you can immediately make and start operating the steam room.

The disadvantage of the frame structure is the low vapor barrier. During snowfall, rain, water can get inside the frame and accumulate, this leads to condensation. But if you know how to make a frame bath and take care of the vapor barrier, then this unpleasant phenomenon can be avoided.

Do-it-yourself frame bath: step by step instructions

First of all, it is necessary to choose a place where the structure will be erected, as well as draw up a project.

Step 1. Creating a plan and diagram of a frame bath

The first stage in the construction of any structure is design. First you need to decide on the size, keep in mind that the larger the building, the more time it will take to build it, more money required, in addition, large steam rooms take longer to warm up. The most popular option is a 4x4 frame bath. It has enough space to accommodate a steam room, a sink and a dressing room.

If the site is small and you want to build a small and budget building, then the best option there will be a do-it-yourself frame 3x3 bath. It can fit 2-3 people. private room rest in this case, it is better to do it on the second floor, combine it with a dressing room or build an attic.

You need to decide on the size of the bath in advance, draw a construction plan, decide in advance where the partitions between the rooms, windows and doors will be installed.

A place for the furnace should also be chosen before construction begins, if you plan to put it, then you need to make a strong foundation under it.

It is also necessary to decide on ventilation and sewerage.

Step 2. Choosing wood

When we build a frame bath with our own hands, we must remember that the quality of the entire structure depends primarily on the quality of the materials used. For construction, you need to use well-dried wood, which has low thermal conductivity, does not deform and can last for many years.

Own bath is the dream of many summer residents and gardeners. Bath in our culture is special place, almost a sanctuary where you can relax for the benefit of the body, and relax your soul. In our country, the bath is part of the traditional way of life and can be accessed by everyone. Each of us without special efforts can build a frame bath on his site with his own hands. Below we will give detailed instructions for a 4x4 frame bath.

First of all, we choose a place on the site for our bath. After that, it is necessary to make preliminary calculations for the layout. As with any construction, first we find out the type of soil.

Next, we prepare the main material. Be sure to make sure that the boards are well dried. For the construction of a frame bath, we can advise you: birch, larch, aspen or linden.

And so, we need:

formwork 30 cm wide and 50 up;
metal rods for strapping;
solution;
a bar with a section of 10 by 10;
gravel sand.

Let's start with digging a trench, the depth of which should be about 50 centimeters, and the width is about 40. Now we fill the foundation and insert the reinforcement into it, on which it will be attached. It is possible to start strapping only after the concrete has completely hardened. Next, we build intermediate rails along the walls. After the walls, lay out the floor. By the way, it will be very good if the outside of the wall is sheathed with clapboard. After all, we build a hood and cut the roof.

First, use when building a bath. On the one hand, this will allow your bath to retain heat longer, and on the other hand, it will create some kind of tightness and prevent moisture from entering. Fiberglass or cotton wool are best suited for this;
Second, do it. This will eliminate the formation of condensate and extend the life of the wood. To do this, you can advise roofing material, film or glassine;
And thirdly, on dense soils you can use simple options foundation, for example, pile.

Now that we have prepared all necessary material and roughly understood what we have to do, we can proceed to the direct construction.

The technology of building a frame bath

Also, a 4x1.8 m size can be attached to our bath. A shallow columnar foundation will fit under it. After erecting the foundation, we make the base of the boards, placing them on the end to eliminate possible deflections.

Next, we assemble the frame of the side structure, which consists of vertical supports and an upper cross member - it will take on the main load of the terrace roof. Attaching the frame to the base anchor bolts. We make connections between it and the baths and cover it with a crate. We lay roofing material on top, you can also put slate or any other roofing material on top of it.

All the same stages of construction are also relevant for a 6x6 frame bath, with the exception of some nuances. So, for example, the foundation pillars are installed in increments equal to the width of the plates of the insulation you have chosen. The binding of the basement is made from a 100x100 mm timber treated with an antiseptic, and is mounted around the perimeter of the building, fastened together with staples and nails. On them we install supports from the same timber, which we then tie on top with boards of 50x150 mm.