How to equip ventilation in the steam room. Natural ventilation in the bath: principles of arrangement and layout of ventilation openings Ventilation window for a steam bath

Arranging a sauna is a very interesting process, but troublesome. It is necessary to take into account a good hundred little things, so that it is not only comfortable, but also safe for health. The latter also depends on air exchange - improperly equipped ventilation in the sauna can form a draft or, conversely, lead to too much heating of the room!

The steam room is a key place for ventilation

The most important room of any sauna or bath is, of course, the steam room. And in the steam room, the high temperature largely depends on ventilation, and not only it, but also the quality of rest. What is the use of hot air if it is stale and saturated with damp smells and sweat products?

In addition, we must not forget that any steam room is a place with high humidity, and therefore an increased danger for all elements (especially wooden ones) to become a breeding ground for mold and fungus. And what sauna can do without electrics now? Even with a minimum of electrical equipment, you need to run a banal light, make a switch - that's the risk of getting an electric shock in high humidity!

In order not to have to constantly think about high humidity, it is better to think about high-quality ventilation once. Thinking, of course, will not be enough - you also need to implement the plan correctly! Since school days, we all know that hot air has one pronounced feature - it always tends to rise up, pushing cold air down. Thanks to this, the natural circulation of air in the atmosphere on a global scale and in each room in particular is ensured. Applied to the steam room, thanks to this law of physics, we get the hottest places on the upper shelves and relatively cool on the lower ones.

According to generally accepted standards, the air in the steam room should be updated at least three times per hour., optimal recommendations - all seven times! Such air exchange can be ensured using conventional supply and exhaust ventilation - hot air, rising to the ceiling, exits through the exhaust vent, as a result of which a slight vacuum is created in the intake duct, and fresh air enters the room. Such a system is applicable to the toilet, but, unlike them, has its own characteristics.

But the task is complicated by the fact that the hottest steam, which is located at the top level of the steam room, should not immediately slip into the hood, otherwise you will be left in a cold sauna, which urgently needs to be heated. If this happens, it means that the hood is equipped incorrectly! Sometimes this is due to the impossibility of the correct arrangement of elements due to the architectural features of the building, in which case it is necessary to consider options for ventilation combined with a mechanical method.

Supply and exhaust ventilation in the sauna - arrangement scheme

To begin with, consider the classics - natural supply and exhaust ventilation. The hood law of this type is the correct location of the inlet and outlet openings. The correct one is when the inlet is located near the stove or under it (if we are talking about the electric version), while the outlet is located on the opposite side. Also, cold fresh air will enter the steam room through a specially left 5-7 cm gap under the door.

The inlet openings must be located strictly below so that the cold air can have time to heat up before it enters the area where people stay.

For proper air circulation, one exhaust opening will not be enough. On the opposite side of the inflow, the first hood is located at a height of about a meter, the second is under the ceiling. Both openings must be connected by an exhaust duct, which leads either to the main ventilation system or to the chimney. If the air duct goes separately, then you need to remember that the higher the pipe rises above the roof level, the more thrust will be in the system - it is important not to overdo it!

So that you can regulate the intensity of air exchange, it is imperative to install shutters on the air outlets. How does such a system work? Let's imagine a standard steam room with a stove-heater at the far wall and a door at the near one. As expected, a gap was left under the door, and the hoods are located on opposite walls: near the stove and at the door.

Before heating the steam room, it must be properly ventilated so that there is fresh air in the room. The doors and outlets are then closed, leaving only the inlet valve open. The steam room will heat up quickly enough, since the hot air will soon have nowhere to go, which means that there will be no air discharge in the inlet.

When the sauna has warmed up, we still leave the upper channel closed, while opening the lower channel a little - thanks to this, air circulation in the steam room will begin, while the upper layers of the warmest air will not leave the room. Cold air will again begin to enter through the supply channel, but due to the proximity of the heater to the resting people, it will get already warmed up, gradually rising up and replacing the stagnant air.

Thanks to this air exchange, the room will have fresh and warm air. Vacationers may not even notice such a change, enjoying the process. Such a system provides economical handling of already heated air, which means you will save on coolant consumption. In addition, problems with mold and fungus will not affect you - thanks to this circulation, all elements will dry properly.

Combined system - when there are no other options

Structural features do not always give us the opportunity to provide ventilation strictly according to the above scheme. For example, a steam room has three adjacent walls with other rooms, and the inlet and outlet must be placed on the same wall. In this case, the correct location must be observed: the supply should be at a distance of 20 cm from the floor, while the outlet should be located at the same distance, only from the ceiling.

Cold air currents, entering the room, will pass through the stove, heat up and rise up, refreshing and warming the room. The disadvantage of this method is that the air circulation is too intense, which must be tightly regulated using valves on the holes.

There is also an option in which the inlet is not located below, under the stove, but above the heater. If the outlet channel is located at a higher level on the opposite wall, we will get a relatively normal movement of air masses. True, it may not be enough, therefore, in such cases, a fan is placed in the outlet to drive air. This will be combined ventilation.

Classic mistakes - what not to do

The most common mistake in the arrangement of supply and exhaust ventilation is the location of the ventilation openings at the same level. As a result, we get a draft below, and hot air at the upper levels will practically not take part in air exchange.

If you make only one hole for the air outlet under the ceiling, even with the correct placement of the inlet and outlet, the mixing of hot and cold air flows will be too fast - the steam room can cool down in a few minutes! Usually, the upper opening is used only in cases where you want to quickly reduce the temperature or completely ventilate the room.

To determine the value of ventilation in the bath know its purpose:

Rapid heating of the room, uniform distribution of heat. Savings in heating costs.
Constant air renewal during soaring. This is necessary for the comfort and health of vacationers.
Rapid removal of moist air. Implementation of mandatory drying of the premises.
Preservation of the building for a longer time. No fungi or mold appear. Objects are not deformed, do not change color under the influence of moisture.

No or insufficient ventilation unpleasant odors gradually accumulate in the room, the air becomes damp. Fresh air is not supplied, it becomes difficult to breathe. There is a risk of carbon monoxide poisoning. Without ventilation, all the warm air will gradually go up, and the cooling air will accumulate below.

Proper ventilation system in the baths

In baths made of natural logs any punching of holes to provide ventilation is considered superfluous. The lower crowns of the walls are laid with the installation of holes through which a moderate amount of fresh air passes. If there is a stove-heater in which the blower is simultaneously designed to bring air out, you can limit yourself to its presence. They let in air through the open door, a gap of 5-7 mm is enough.

Ventilation is designed for regular entry into the bath of fresh air, outflow of cooled and moist. For fresh air flow need to build vents. If they are not, then you can use the vents, doors. The hood also takes place through special openings; a furnace blower can be used; a chimney is of great importance in the outflow of steam. In order to be able to fully control the air exchange, the openings are equipped with shutters, by adjusting which you can stop or resume the flow and exit of air.

There is a wide range of ventilation systems:

For inlet and outlet located opposite each other, one level is used. In some cases, the low placement of the inlet helps to retain heat for a longer time. To activate the air exchange, a fan is installed, an air duct or a deflector can also be used. You can not place holes with an exact match in level. As a result of the rapid release of air, accumulations of cold at the bottom and warm in the rest of the bath can form.
The air currents directed by the operating ventilation device lower the pressure inside the duct. Exhaust air is drawn out due to a decrease in pressure inside the bath. To raise the pressure again, fresh air is supplied.
The vents can be arranged in this way: the supply air is 30 cm from the floor, the outlet located opposite does not reach the ceiling by 30 cm. Fresh air immediately heats up from the stove, rises, gradually leaving the room.

To ensure constant control over the speed and volume of incoming and outgoing air, dampers are created. It is advisable to make them retractable, slightly opening to the required distance. The length of the duct is determined by the dimensions of the bath, as well as the maximum volume of required incoming air.

When the room is only heated with a preheated stove, all openings should be covered. When the temperature becomes optimal for vaping, the shutters open slightly and are immediately regulated so that the air exchange does not change the temperature in the room. Both inlet and outlet openings must have a connector close to the same. To make the influx of fresh air stronger, you can slightly increase the outlet.

The inlet connector must not be larger than the outlet. This leads to a reverse draft, which contributes to the release of fresh air from the bath, and not its active circulation.

Ventilation in the Russian bath

In a classic bath, created according to the Russian model, no special holes, so air exchange should be performed in a more natural way. Normally, conventional ventilation is used to supply fresh air. You can open the door leading to the street and the window opposite to it. Sometimes forced exhaust is used with the door open. To better get rid of the accumulated dampness, you should sweep the leaves from the broom in a timely manner. Benches and other wooden objects can be dried when wet, sometimes sheets are swept. These procedures will not allow the formation of heavy steam, remove unpleasant odors and decay products from the room.

After the bath is ventilated and dried, need to start steaming. To do this, pour water on the stones in small portions. The prepared steam rises quickly and stays there for a long time, so it may turn out that it is already very hot at the top, and still cool at the bottom. With a strong temperature difference, you can wait until the steam sinks or use artificial methods to lower it.

It is enough to work with brooms to create movement in the steam room, the air will immediately mix. Waves with a towel or broom should be carried out closer to the ceiling.

You can make a fan: on the wooden handle there is a stainless steel loop, on which the fabric is stretched. Horizontal or vertical movements are made by this device to move warm and cold air. Sometimes they begin to use it in the manufacture of steam. To do this, one person pours water on the stones, and the second works with a fan.

in the steam room

In classical bath ventilation schemes, it is assumed air flow in the steam room from below. The hole is usually located below half a meter from the floor. The hood can be placed close to the ceiling by equipping a hole on the opposite wall. The regulation of the level of humidity and heat of the air is carried out by extending or closing the shutters.

The best option, especially for a small steam room, is to create an air inlet next to the stove. This is necessary to instantly heat the incoming fresh air. This arrangement will not allow strong drafts to form, helps to avoid a large temperature difference in different parts of the steam room. The heat from the steam room can not only be taken outside, but also moved to other rooms for their high-quality heating.

Proper ventilation works by bringing fresh air under the box. Air masses leave the device through the top opening. The steam room warms up quite evenly until the warm air reaches the bottom of the box. Hot air will gradually displace colder air, providing warming before leaving the room. The steam room simultaneously heats up and dries out.

In the bathhouse

The ventilation channel is directly connected to the duct, the diameter of which usually exceeds the chimney by no more than 20%. With such parameters, oxygen fills the room, and does not leave it. Air intake from the underground is not needed.

The walls of the stove, if it is in the dressing room, should be close to the floor. Shelves are not necessarily placed in a strictly horizontal position. They are able to slow down the rise of heat to the ceiling. For better absorption of warm air, it is better to equip the stove with several chimneys.

Sometimes during the heating of the bath in the room a large amount of smoke is formed and retained. This means that the air inside the dressing room is colder than in the environment. Cold air is somewhat more massive than warm air, so it often creates a shell in chimneys. In order to push out this air, it is necessary to equip an additional door for burning ash.

Forced ventilation

Ventilation in the bath with the help of electronic systems is carried out if it is impossible to provide good air circulation in natural ways. Fans can be installed on both supply and exhaust openings. They accelerate the movement of air masses, providing the room with fresh air, quickly removing moist.

Exhaust ventilation

In the design of this ventilation is always present exhaust fan. For air circulation, a supply air is also necessarily constructed. Sometimes cracks in the walls are used for fresh air to enter, windows or doors are slightly opened. The advantage of exhaust ventilation is to reduce the pressure in the bath. The action must be compensated by a constant flow of air from outside.

Ventilation with a powerful hood perfectly removes harmful gases, humid air with an unpleasant odor. It is possible to build such a ventilation system not only in the steam room, but also in showers, washing rooms, departments with a pool or in bathrooms. Usually, the basic set of the exhaust ventilation system includes a fan and a box. If the device is too noisy, a silencer can be used.

Forced ventilation

It is installed according to the exhaust principle, however the fan must be placed on the inlet. When the supply ventilation system is activated, an increase in pressure in the room is observed, which should be compensated in a timely manner by the release of air through the hood or gaps in the walls, floor, ceiling, through the windows, the door.

Supply fans are not considered convenient if they will operate in cold temperatures. In winter, they supply icy air, which must be additionally heated by pre-installed air heaters. If it is necessary to purify a large amount of incoming air, filters can be used.

Supply and exhaust ventilation

Combination of artificial inflow and exhaust air is often equipped with recuperators, silencers, filters. Additional devices provide comfort while in the bath, at the same time there is a constant, good air circulation. In order not to worry about ventilation, you can equip it with an automatic control unit.

Creating a design for supply and exhaust artificial ventilation often causes difficulties. It is necessary to calculate the optimal air exchange in all rooms of the bath at the design stage. The amount of outgoing air must match the incoming air. Sometimes air flows are not specifically balanced. In order to prevent the spread of excessive humidity or unpleasant odors from a certain room, the pressure is artificially reduced in it. To do this, the hood is mounted with greater intensity than in other rooms.

When arranging ventilation in the bath, you should take care not only of the steam room, but also of other important rooms. To save heating costs, you can use the warm air generated in the steam room, taking it out not to the street, but through other rooms. By adapting the ventilation system to specific requests, you can make the most successful option.

Ventilation in a log bath: its arrangement should be approached very responsibly, so that later there is less trouble and there are no situations when someone becomes ill in the steam room due to the lack of sufficient oxygen.

Ventilation is mounted parallel to the construction of the building itself, and the choice of one or another of its types is made in accordance with the architectural features of the building.

Ventilation in the bath, made at a high quality level, provides comfortable conditions for lovers of steam, allows you to fully enjoy the bath process

On a note! Ventilation in the bath, made at a high quality level, provides comfortable conditions for lovers of steam, allows you to fully enjoy the bath process.

Why is there ventilation in the bath?

To answer the question, why, in fact, the bath ventilation, you should know its direct purpose.

If there is an air circulation system in the steam room, other bath rooms, they:

warm up faster, heat fills them more evenly (direct savings on heating);
receive oxygen in the process of soaring, vacationers feel comfortable, nothing threatens their health;
quickly get rid of excess steam, moisture, dry;
walls, floors, ceilings are not covered with fungi, mold, objects (benches, tubs) do not darken, the building as a whole does not deform, it will last longer.

If the room is not sufficiently or not ventilated at all, unpleasant putrefactive odors appear there, the inner surfaces are covered with a wet sticky coating. While bathing, vacationers experience a lack of oxygen, breathing difficulties, and the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning. Also, in the absence of proper air circulation, warm masses will quickly accumulate under the ceiling, and the area near the floor will be constantly cold.

However, you should also know the following: a bath of classical Russian construction, that is, from logs, with specially cut ventilation holes ... is not provided! They are recognized by professionals as superfluous, but only in one case: if the bath is neither insulated nor insulated from the outside, not insulated, not finished. In a bath without finishing, the lower wall crowns are already laid with holes through which air enters in a natural mode. If there is a stove-heater inside, then ventilation is carried out through a blower. And so fresh air is let into the Russian bath through a door or window open by five to seven centimeters. In parallel with this, the room should be cleaned of wet leaves in a timely manner, benches are dried on the street, and heavy air is driven out by waving sheets.

Specially built-in ventilation in a Russian log bath must be equipped in cases where:

there is additional insulation or any type of insulation;
floors do not have natural slots for draining water;

the stove is not in the steam room, but in the adjacent room;
windows are missing.

Important! Only in these cases, the presence of additional ventilation holes and forced circulation systems in a log bath is recognized as mandatory.

Ventilation device: important points

Let us clarify once again: we are talking about arranging ventilation in a classic-built log bath only if its natural implementation (through a stove blew, window, door, cracks in the floor) is impossible. Quite often, during the construction of baths, two extremes are observed: they refuse ventilation altogether or make it more powerful and unregulated. What will happen to vacationers in the steam room in the absence of ventilation, we said above. If the ventilation is too intense, the bath will take longer to heat up, the heat will quickly disappear from the room. The floors will cool faster, which threatens people with colds.

Fresh air should enter the steam room through an opening located directly behind the stove or under one of the loungers. In the first case, hitting a hot stove, the air warms up quickly, the difference between the ceiling and floor temperatures is neutralized. The ventilation hole located under the lounger has only one plus - it is not conspicuous. There are two minuses here - constantly cold floors in the area of \u200b\u200bthe benches, difficult operation of the damper, since it is difficult to reach it with your hand.

Bath ventilation cannot be only supply or only exhaust. It can be exclusively supply and exhaust, since it provides a constant supply of oxygen to the room and the removal of harmful, heavy, exhaust air to the street. Hence the answer to the question of whether ventilation is needed in a log bath can only be in the affirmative. And about what types it is, we will talk below.

There are three types of ventilation structures, and they differ in their design.

Systems are:

natural;
mechanical or forced;
combined.

Natural ventilation is provided during the construction of the building by cutting holes. Dampers (covers) are installed on them, which, if necessary, completely shut off the flow of air flows or decrease (increase) their volume. This system functions due to the difference in pressure and temperature of the external atmosphere and the internal one. In order for natural ventilation to work effectively, you need to properly position the vents themselves. The inlet (supply) hole is usually located behind the stove at a distance of 0.3 meters from the floor, the outlet (exhaust) is opposite on the wall at a distance of 0.3 meters from the ceiling.

For a steam room, this is not the best ventilation option, since in this case the outlet must be at the same level as the inlet. Thus, the air enters behind the stove, heats up, rises up, cools down, descends, and is discharged outside through the exhaust hole.

A mechanical or forced (artificial) ventilation system is provided by installing special fans on the openings, laying pipes, and installing electrical equipment. If we compare it with natural, a number of fairly significant advantages are found, namely:

Oxygen enters the room faster.
The incoming air is filtered.
The microclimate inside the room is constantly kept at the same level.
Fresh air is distributed evenly, quickly updated.

However, in order to maximize the effect of its use, you should strictly monitor the correct location of the supply / exhaust openings.

On a note! Natural ventilation in a log bath loses to forced ventilation in several positions.

For example, it is very dependent on the weather, especially if a strong wind is directed towards the intake hole at an angle of ninety degrees. The result of the work of the forced system is always of the same quality in any weather. And the direction and strength of the wind does not play any role for her.

However, when installing a mechanical system, there are some difficulties. It cannot be equipped without electrical equipment, which is quite sensitive to the humid microclimate in a steam room with high temperatures. Moreover, moisture and high degrees are the worst enemies of any equipment powered by electricity. Therefore, all elements of the system (fans, motors, etc.) should be reliably isolated from moisture, and when connecting it, strictly follow all operating rules. For sealing electrical engineering, all seams, special cases, sealants and metallized adhesive tape are most often used.

There is already a large review material on our website, so now it’s worth talking separately about the hood in the bath: how it works, how it works and how to make it yourself.

Hood in the bath: depending on which bath

Baths are built from a variety of materials, each of which has its own specifics. This also affects the ventilation systems, which have their own characteristics in each case. We will talk about their differences in terms of organization below.

Extractor in the sauna

A sauna or a Finnish bath differs from a Russian one in a small amount of steam (this is practically a dry bath) and a high temperature (which can reach up to 130 degrees!). During your stay in the sauna, there is a clear rule regarding ventilation: the air must be changed at least 6-8 times per hour. And this requires good controllability of air flows, replacing exhaust air with fresh air less than every 10 minutes.

Ideal option for a sauna, (convection type). Let us briefly repeat that it operates on the principle of an “inverted glass”:

ventilation box, standing diagonally from the oven, takes in ambient air;
brings it out through the roof (wall);
below, next to the stove, there is an inlet through which fresh air enters;
the oven heats the oxygenated air, it rises and is distributed throughout the sauna.

Flow regulation is carried out with the help of dampers that regulate the openness of the box and the inlet. An important point in this case is the constant operation of the furnace, because it is it that performs the function of a “pump”.

And even if the hood in the sauna is done according to a different scheme, the task will remain the same:

controlled frequent air exchange;
good warming up incoming fresh air;
impermissibility fast air currents (more than 0.3 m / s), i.e. drafts.

In a log cabin

The log house was invented long before the laws of physics on which natural ventilation is based took shape. Nevertheless, the builders of log baths actively used these laws so that the owners of the bath would not suffocate in the process of soaring, and the bath would stand for decades due to it. (Of course, the hood in the log cabin will not save her from a fire, but from rot - it may well.) In the log house, the air flow was provided by the lower rims, which were intentionally laid freely, that is, they had slots through which fresh air was “stretched”. In addition, the door to the steam room below did not fit snugly against the floor.

Depending on how exactly the bath from the log house was heated - “in black” or “in white” - it also depended on where the exhaust air went.

In a heated "black" bathhouse, the stove does not work during the soaring process, so an open window or door was used for outflow.
In the melted "white" bath, the outflow was carried out through the chimney. The oven was working.

In principle, nothing prevents organizing the ventilation of the log house in the traditional way today. But it is necessary to decide quickly, even at the construction stage. Because a more modern solution should already be included in the project. Alternatively, you can punch holes (supply and exhaust) directly onto the street and supply them with plugs or dampers. One is next to the stove blower, the second is above the upper shelf on the adjacent or opposite side. Or make two exhaust holes - one above, the other below the top shelf. Another option is to make blinds at the bottom of the steam room door, and an exhaust hole under the ceiling of the shower room.

IMPORTANT! If there is no desire to make an exit to the street, you can lay air ducts, but then you will have to install a forced ventilation system instead of a natural one.

In a foam block bath

A foam block bath is no exception to the rule that you need to think about ventilation when designing a bath. It's easier than hitting ready-made walls. In order to provide a bath of cellular concrete with sufficient air circulation, which will save the structure from excess moisture, it is necessary to lay pipe trimmings at the time of pouring the foundation formwork, which will then become air ducts.

For a bath that is not in a lowland and is not surrounded on all sides by buildings, two air vents are enough on opposite sides, otherwise they are made 4. Do not forget about the ventilation gaps between the walls and the insulation.

The roof must also be ventilated, receiving inflow from the roof overhangs and giving air through the raised ridge. In the premises, supply and exhaust openings are made according to one of the standard schemes.

In case of insufficient natural ventilation, it is recommended to install fans on the hood from the foam block bath.

Extract for a bath: in which department?

If we leave aside the issues of ventilation of walls, foundations and roofs already discussed in other articles, there are rooms - a steam room, a washing room, a dressing room and a rest room - where you need to organize air circulation. At the same time, there are certain standards regarding ventilation in each of them and the specifics of the manufacture of the hood. But first things first.

Extractor in the steam room

For those who soar, the extract in the steam room of the bath is a guarantee that they will come out of there alive and healthy.

IMPORTANT! You can not leave the steam room without ventilation holes at all, this is a big risk of getting black or losing consciousness and suffocating with carbon dioxide. Can't just make one hole- so the ventilation does not work.

The method of ventilation of the steam room can be natural (due to the laws of physics) or forced (due to fans). Openings can lead to the street, to air ducts and to neighboring rooms. On the ventilation openings, either blinds or dampers are placed. Air inflow can be organized through the bottom of the steam room door, spaced 3 cm from the floor or with blinds at the bottom of the door leaf.

With your own hands you will have to make only a box. Everything else (corrugation, valves, gate valves, dampers) is on sale. Fans (if needed) vary in diameter and power. Relays can be used to automatically control forced ventilation. Holes in the wall are either left during construction, or they make their way in an already built bath.

Useful video

See how the craftsmen made a box for extracting ventilation from the boards:

In the washing

According to the already mentioned standards, the air circulation in the washing room per hour should be a multiple of 8 room volumes for supply ventilation and 9 for exhaust. It means:

that the dimensions of the exhaust opening will be more inlet;
or exhaust will be two on one supply;
or put on the hood fan.

In any case, this is an intensive air exchange, which is intended primarily for quickly draining the car wash. During the washing process, it is not required, so it is regulated by dampers.

By the way, air inlets can be made in the dressing room or rest room, and exhaust holes in the washing room. This will allow you to ventilate two rooms at once. Similarly, the hood is done in the bathroom, and forced to create low pressure. Then the air will be drawn from the neighboring rooms and leave through the forced exhaust. Thus, the rooms are connected by through holes, which on the one hand will be supply, and on the other - exhaust.

The components of the hood in the washing bath do not differ from those used in the steam room.

How to make an extract in the bath

This has been said many times before, but it's worth repeating: the cost of arranging ventilation will increase many times if it is done late after completion of construction. At the same time, the principle of creating ventilation in the bath remains unchanged: it is necessary to create conditions for the inflow and outflow of air from the premises. So, how to make a hood in the bath with your own hands or the hands of professionals.

Hood in the bath: scheme

There are many schemes, but any one is suitable for understanding the principle of ventilation. Most often, ventilation schemes for the steam room are offered, but the scheme for the entire bath, with explanations, is of much greater interest.

Look at the sketch. It shows that ventilation is carried out in the washing room, steam room and rest room. Moreover, the air flow is carried out from one pipe to two points, one of which is located in the steam room, and the second - in the rest room. The hood is located in the washing room, and in the steam room, and in the rest room. Let's describe all the ventilation devices in each room:

washing- a window made of metal-plastic, an adjustable hood that takes air through a diffuser located on the ceiling. From there, the air escapes through a pipe to the roof.
steam room- an insulated window located below the shelf, an adjustable hood, which is a vertical box, the intake hole of which is 150 cm² located below the shelf, and the exit from the pipe to the street is near the ceiling. One of the channels of regulated inflow near the stove, cross-sectional area 150 cm².
Restroom- adjustable hood, which is a box with a cross section of 150 cm², the height of the intake hole is 30-40 cm from the floor, exit through the pipe to the street near the ceiling. Regulated inflow through the second channel with an exit near a furnace fire chamber.

DIY: how to do it right

Do-it-yourself exhaust in the bath is not something that cannot be done, but you need to approach the matter prudently and slowly. In order to independently make the hood, you need to prepare materials according to it. It is also necessary to calculate the cross section of the ventilation pipes.

IMPORTANT! The inflow volume must be equal to or less than the exhaust volume.

To do this, you need to know the volume of the room and the multiplicity factor (how many times the air should be updated per hour) - it is in the regulations. In the main air ducts, the speed of movement should not exceed 5 m / s, in the branches - 3 m / s, in the steam room - 2 m / s, natural ventilation - up to 1 m / s. Further in the table we find the value of the pipe section, which most closely gives the desired volume at a given speed.

Knowing the cross section, it remains to prepare a corrugation or pipes of the appropriate diameter, which at one end are mounted indoors at the desired height according to the diagram, and with the other they go outside. Self-tapping screws, metal tape and polyurethane foam are used for fastening. The openings are supplied with shutters in the room, gratings at the exit. By the way, ventilation should be cleaned once a year..

Useful video

Watch a short video showing ventilation in one bath:

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Well, now you know exactly how to properly draw a hood in the bath in order to save yourself, your household and guests from suffocation in the bath. It remains only to correctly apply the information received.

In contact with

The old days, in which people didn’t care which bathhouse they bathe in, have already passed. Nowadays, it is important that this room performs its functions with high quality and correctly. An important point is the ventilation in the bath. This applies to the floor and the entire steam room. It has been proven that the well-known effect of healing, which can be obtained from all procedures in the bath, is impossible if ventilation is not arranged. Moreover, ventilation is important in all rooms: steam room, washing room, locker room and rest room.

It is important to remember that this is not just a whim - it is a necessity. It's about your health and the health of your family. How can you make ventilation in the bath? Is there any specific pattern? How to ventilate the floor in the bath? All this you will learn further.

What is the correct scheme of the ventilation device

What is ventilation anyway? Simply put, ventilation is the exchange of air in a room. It's no secret that the product of human exhalation is carbon dioxide. If the room is not ventilated, that is, fresh air is not supplied to it, then it will be filled with this gas. At this time, there will be little oxygen in it. Then the atmosphere becomes "stale", it is difficult and unpleasant for you to breathe. The consequences of this phenomenon are many, up to severe headaches.

That is why it is important to make the ventilation of the room, whether in the house or in the bath. The ventilation system functions quite simply:

In the bath, holes (intake vents) are made through which fresh air enters it. Most often, these holes are located below.
When it mixes with the atmosphere in the room, which is much warmer due to the operation of the stove, there is a distribution of air flow throughout the bath.
Other vents are made from above, through which the exhausted or “stale” air leaves the room.

Note! The ventilation outlet must be larger than the inlet. Otherwise, fresh air from outside will not flow in.

Thus, airing of any bath is arranged. It is important to ensure good air exchange for a pleasant and comfortable stay. It is important to take into account several points:

exhaust vents should not be made in the ceiling, as the room will cool very quickly;
the dimensions of all ventilation openings are selected taking into account the size of the room (25 cm 2 is needed for 1 m 3);
it is imperative to make valves on the holes, thanks to which you can regulate the flow.

Properly performed air exchange should constantly provide the room with fresh air in order to enhance the healing effect of soaring. In addition, due to it, after all the procedures, the room can dry quickly. Since we are talking about a wooden bath, moisture can harm the material. If you properly ventilate, you can avoid the following consequences:

Decrease in temperature due to the intake of cold air from outside.
Negative influence on the distribution of heat flows.
Removal of hot and humid air from the steam room, in which there is no carbon dioxide.

But, the ventilation scheme may not be one. There are several of them.

Types of ventilation in the bath

Depending on the device, the ventilation of the premises may be different. There are 3 main types:

Natural.
Mechanical.
Combined.

The natural ventilation scheme is the one we discussed above. Everything happens naturally, due to the temperature difference, according to the principle of convection. In addition, this includes the effect of wind pressure through cracks in the wall, window and door openings.

If we talk about the mechanical system, then all the work is done by special devices (fans), which draw out the exhaust air and fill the bath with fresh air. Accordingly, a combined system is a combination of these two types together to enhance the effect.

Advice! It is especially important to ventilate the floor and the bath for those who have stoves powered by gas or liquid and solid fuels. To maintain the combustion process, these units take oxygen from the bath.

Do I need to ventilate the floor

Why is it so important to make ventilation under the bath floor? The thing is that it contributes to the exchange of air in all sections. Most often, wood is used to make the floor in the bath. Since it will constantly interact with water, it must be removed. If you do not dry the floor, then after 5 years it will simply become unusable. And nobody wants this. How can you ventilate the floor in the bath? Is there a specific pattern?

Yes, here's what you need to do to ensure good ventilation of the base:

But in order for the floor ventilation system in the bath to function as it should, it is necessary to provide a full range of ventilation. Let's find out how you can make the natural ventilation of the bath.

Arrangement of ventilation in a natural way

Why are we considering this kind? Because it does not require large investments of funds and is quite effective. To do everything right, you need to take into account some points and rules. For you to understand how such a scheme is made, look at the photo below.

Let's start by placing holes through which air will flow from the outside. They should be located at the bottom of the steam room, next to the stove. For what? So that it warms up and does not cool the room. Then more fuel will be needed to heat it. In addition, vents do not need to be made with dampers, they must be open all the time.

The second hole, exhaust, must be placed on the opposite wall or diagonally. It is important that it has a larger size than the bottom one. What for? For normal operation. As for the placement, we said that it should not be done on the ceiling. Step back 30 or 40 cm and make it into the wall. But in this exhaust hole you can mount an adjustable valve, which you can buy in the store. The air that will be drawn from the steam room can be sent to the dressing room, saving on its heating. It's like an option. In another case, it is taken out to the roof through a pipe system.