Ventilation in a private house through the wall. Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet: Forced ventilation, installation with your own hands

Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet, in which an elevated level of humidity is always present, provoking the appearance of mold fungus, must have sufficient efficiency. If in modern and older multi-storey houses, such as Khrushchev, its presence is provided for by a typical project, then in a private house it is necessary to think about the owner itself at the beginning of construction. Without possessing certain knowledge and without understanding the intricacies of installation work, it is difficult to install it without errors, but taking the existing rules to weapons, it will become possible.

Principle of air exchange systems

Even at the design stage of a private house, it is necessary to adhere to the standards for the installation and operation of ventilation channels for which:

The air flow should be located at the bottom, and the extractor from above, as close as possible to the ceiling. To ensure the ventilation of the whole room, they are placed in opposite angles.
Their inner surface is made as smooth as possible, and the direction of air movement is carried out in a straight line.
On the arranged turns avoid steep bends.
The fan cannot be placed near the water, next to the bathroom, sink, toilet.
For different floors, separate ducts are paved.

All ventilation systems are divided into the principle of action - with natural traction and mechanical motivation. If the bathroom has modest sizes and its services enjoys a small number of tenants, then the first type of ventilation is equipped, in other cases - the second.

The natural system works due to the difference in the density of air masses and temperature when the heated and easier air, striving up, passes through the exhaust channels and turns out on the street. At the same time, it replaces more dense cold air, entering the room through an air duct system. The greater the difference of values, the higher the potential and better traction.

Such a scheme works well in the winter, but with the onset of warm days the temperature difference becomes minimal and its effectiveness falls. Forced ventilation is deprived of these drawbacks, since the fan is installed in the system, which is responsible for moving air masses.

Ventilation device in a private house

Previously, the normal air exchange in the apartment provided natural gaps in wooden windows, on the door of the door, and if the private house was from the bar, then also interwetted emptiness. But today, under the erection of housing, modern energy-saving technologies are widely used, which reduce the costs of heating and at the same time preventing free air circulation.

Therefore, many owners leave the door ajar, and in plastic windows use the microwing function, which involves the presence of a small gap. Finding inside, fresh street air warms up and removes through the pipe fireplace, furnace heating or existing ventilation channels. But this scheme is not devoid of shortcomings - dust, midges fall into the house, the noise penetrates, and in the winter, frosty air that provokes the appearance of drafts.

As a modern and affordable solution, many homeowners prefer to install a ventilation valve. The advantages of its use are obvious:

providing the necessary air exchange;
installation is easy to implement with your own hands;
cuts directly into the wall in a convenient place for this.

Depending on the type and equipment of the water, electrical heating system, the device provides comfortable accommodation conditions at any time of the year.

But the full-fledged system will consist of several elements, such as:

1. Ventilation channel. It is a mine round or square, leading to the roof of the house. To promote the air flow, it disappears anything, they are made as direct as possible. The presence of a horizontal insert is allowed, but a length not exceeding 1-2 m.
2. Ventilation output - a hole in the wall connected to the channel. To receive large volumes of air, it makes sufficient size, not less than the central duct.
3. Ventilation grille. Made of plastic, metal, it serves as an decoration and, closing the output, warns the penetration of water, garbage.

Appointment and types of design

Considering the characteristics of the system, several types are distinguished:

Exhaust. Air is removed through a special tap channel.
Inlet. Air supply to the room is carried out under excess pressure, as a result of which the spent streams are removed out through the mine.
Mixed. This system combines the types of ventilation listed above and is the most efficient.

In addition, given the features of the structural elements, they are divided into channels and cutless. In the first case, air supply is carried out using special boxes. This type of ventilation is used if the air flow must be directed to remote areas and to clean it from condensate, dust, other pollutants.

Breakless. In this case, the air flow moves through the air ducts built inside the walls and the bathroom is supplied (assigned) through the hole, usually closed with a decorative grid. Such a device is typical for typical multi-storey houses, in which the ventilated window is located between the bathroom and the toilet, and in one of the rooms there is an output to central ventkalanal.

By installing the fan, you can combine the forced and natural system and get the optimal option - a mixed type of ventilation. If the channel is located far, then they are smooted by rectangular, round or corrugated boxes. The walls made of plastic products are absolutely smooth and do not interfere with the movement of the air, besides, they quench the noise waves caused by the fan operation. Soft corrugated sections are well suited to bypass complex obstacles.

In order for the extract to effectively cope with its purpose, the installation is carried out by following the following rules:

the place of its installation is selected opposite from the input door of the wall;
the fan is taken to the mine, securely fixed, and all the cracks are filled with sealant;
wiring for security purposes is placed closed.

The fan control in the bathroom is connected directly to the light switch, then the smells will be removed immediately, but it is preferable to have a separate switch in the bathroom.

Often in the bathroom on the ceiling are mounted suspended, stretching structures. If the mine is located below their level, then for the ventilation of the space between the ceilings not far from the ventilation hole, the lattice is installed. If the mine is higher than the suspended ceiling, then in the latter make several venetu functions and install the fan in one of them, and the rest are closed with lattices.

Natural ventilation

The device of this type must be planned at the stage of preparation for the construction of a house or cottage, when drawing up a project, which stipulates the location of all rooms and office premises. The main reason is the right installation, when it is still in the process of building walls through their inner design, special ventilation channels should be paved. Usually start from the first floor towards the attic. Ventkanals can be made of bricks, plastic material of a special form.

When planning a natural ventilation system laying, several recommendations should be followed:

each room must be equipped with air ducts, the installation of which is performed vertically;
if the bathroom with the toilet is on the same floor, moreover, then the use of combined hoods is allowed;
when several service premises are located close to each other, you can combine their ducts into one common, without incline its output diameter;
the walls of the box must be smooth, and there are any obstacles on the way of the air flow.

The presence of natural type ventilation, which provides comfortable accommodation conditions, is required for each private house, other buildings. In the future, the system can be upgraded, additionally installing the fan, and thereby increase its efficiency.

Forced ventilation

The modern system of forced ventilation consists of a heat exchanger, filters, fans. Therefore, the air coming from the street is first cleared, and in the cold time it is preheated, and only then it is distributed through the rooms, the exhaust air outwards.

The system includes the following components:

The fan that provides the movement of air masses.
Air ducts. They are performed from the nozzles of 0.5, 1 and 2 meters long and are used to move air flows.
Connecting couplings. With their help, individual sections are collected into a single whole.
Rotary taps. Redirect the flow movement in the desired side.
Check valve. Prevents the return of the exhaust air.
Brackets, fasteners. Mounted on walls and ceiling, they hold the entire design.

To organize an effective drawing in the bathroom, the toilet is enough fans to which the main requirement is presented - the level of noise is not higher than 35 dB. The devices on the bearings have a large resource, and on the sleeves - quieter in operation and more affordable in price.

The axial-type fans have an average noise level and are well suited for mounting into a chartless system. The centrifugal device is louder than the rest, but has a high performance. Paying attention to the listed characteristics, centrifugal-axial-axis products are more attractive, characterized by low weight, silent and high efficiency.

Several types of connection are common - to the light switch, a separate switch, which is located near the device on the wall (or on its housing), using a motion sensor. The latter works when someone enters the room.

Using the filtering system improves the quality of the incoming air, but it needs constant care and increases operating costs. The filter must be periodically verified for the presence of pollution and change, since the accumulated substances can provoke the reproduction of hazardous bacteria and organisms.

For this reason, forced ventilation is recommended to install air humidity sensors, especially in the bathroom. Then the operation of the mechanism will occur when the specified parameter is reached.

If the installation of forced ventilation is planned only in the bathroom, and the rest of the rooms are simply subject to ventilating, then for these purposes it is advisable to install a chartless system with a fan in it in it. It is fixed on special fastening terminals and connected to the power supply network using a two-housing wire.

Adjustment type ventilation arrangement in the whole house requires the acquisition of special equipment - a special unit responsible for feeding, removal, cleaning, filtering and air heating. The installation site is chosen by the attic or the technical room. Power is calculated by the number of tenants based on the size of the house and the material of the walls, but on average, this indicator is 200-600 m3 / h.

Air ducts are collected by the designer using already ready-made sections, adapters. As far as possible, they are hiding from eyes over suspended, stretched ceilings, removed into the attic. If everything is assembled correctly, then normally working ventilation will provide a good air exchange not only in the bathroom, toilet, but also in the house, and, supporting the necessary level of humidity, will reduce the likelihood of plating on the walls of mold and fungus.

To connect plumbing devices to the water supply network used flexible water lining. It is in demand when connecting mixers, shower cabins, toilet bowls and other points of water intake, and significantly simplifies the installation process. Flexible lining is also used when installing gas equipment. It differs from similar water tools for manufacturing technology and special safety requirements.

Characteristics and species

A flexible supply for connecting plumbing is a hose of different lengths made of non-toxic synthetic rubber. Due to the elasticity and softness of the material, it easily takes the right position and allows you to install in hard-to-reach places. To protect the flexible hose, the upper reinforcing layer is intended as a braid, which is performed from the following materials:

Aluminum. Such models are withstanding no more than +80 ° C and retain functionality for 3 years. With increased humidity, the aluminum braid is prone to the appearance of rust.
Of stainless steel. Thanks to this reinforcing layer, the service life of flexible water supply for water is at least 10 years, and the maximum temperature of the transported medium is +95 ° C.
Nylon. Such a braid is used to make reinforced models that hold the temperature to +110 ° C and are designed for intensive operation for 15 years.

A pair of nut-nut and nut-fitting, which are made of brass or stainless steel are used as fasteners. The devices with different indicators of the permissible temperature differ in the color of the braid. Blue is used to connect to a pipe with cold water, and red - with hot.

When choosing a watering for water, you need to pay attention to its elasticity, fastening and destination. Mandatory is also the presence of a certificate that eliminates the separation of rubber toxic components during operation.

Features of gas supply

When connecting gas stoves, columns and other types of equipment also use flexible liners. Unlike models for water, they have yellow and not tested for environmental safety. For fixing uses end steel or aluminum fittings. Distinguish the following types of fixtures for connecting gas appliances:

pVC hoses that are reinforced with polyester thread;
from synthetic rubber with stainless steel braid;
silphon, made in the form of a corrugated stainless steel tube.

Holding "Santekhkomplekt" offers engineering equipment, reinforcement, plumbing and fixtures for its connection to communications. The range is represented by products and materials of famous foreign and domestic manufacturers. With wholesale purchases, discounts apply, and product quality is confirmed by certificates of the established sample. For information support and assistance for each client, a personal manager is assigned. The possibility of making delivery within Moscow and to other regions of the Russian Federation allows you to quickly get purchased goods without unnecessary trouble.

Drainage - a hydro-elevative event on the disposal of excess groundwater.

If you do not leave the water from the territory for a long time, the soil is flunk, if they quickly disappear (swell) shrubs and trees, it is necessary to urgently take measures and carry out the drainage of the site.

Causes of soil moistening

The reasons for the convergence of soils several:

clay heavy soil structure with weak water permeability;
the waterproof in the form of gray-green and red-brown clays is located close to the surface;
high groundwater occurrence;
man-made factors (construction of roads, pipelines, various objects), which prevent natural drainage;
violation of water balance with the construction of irrigation systems;
landscape plot is located in a lowland, beam, hollow. In this case, atmospheric precipitation and water inflows are playing a major role.

What is fraught with excess moisture in the soil

The results of this phenomenon you see yourself - trees and shrubs die. Why is this happening?

the oxygen content is reduced in the soil and the carbon dioxide content increases, which leads to a violation of the processes of air exchange, water regime and power mode in the soil;
there is an oxygen fasting of the root-forming layer, which leads to the dying of the roots of plants;
violates the receipt of macro and microelements by plants (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc.), because Excessive water flushes mobile forms of elements from the soil, and they become inaccessible to assimilate;
an intensive decay of proteins occurs and, accordingly, the processes of rotting are activated.

Plants can suggest at what level groundwater

Look carefully to the flora of your site. Inhabiting its views will be prompted, at what depth there are soil layers of water:

ripowodka - in this place is best to dig up with water;
at a depth of 0.5 m - the bow of the village, the chests, varieties of the Oskock - bubble, ostolic, foxes, Vainik Langesdorf;
at a depth of 0.5 m to 1 m - Tollga, Canary,;
from 1 m to 1.5 m - favorable conditions for taming meadow, mint, mouse peas, ranks;
from 1.5 m - drink, clover, wormwood, plantain.

What is important to know, planning the drainage of the site

Each group of plants has its own moisture needs:

with a depth of groundwater from 0.5 to 1 m can grow vegetables and aluminum flowers at high beds;
the depth of the water reservoir to 1.5 m is well transferred to vegetable crops, grains, annual and perennials (flowers), decorative and fruit-berry shrubs, trees on dwarf dive;
if groundwater at a depth of more than 2 m, you can grow fruit trees;
the optimal depth of groundwater grounds for agriculture is from 3.5 m.

Whether the drainage is needed

Record your observations at least for a while. You will be able to understand how much drainage is needed.

Maybe it makes sense to simply redirect the tale and sedimentary waters along the bypass channel, and not allow them to flow through their plot?

Perhaps you need to design and equip the lavety and improve the composition of the soil and will it be enough?

Or is it worth making a drainage system only for fruit and decorative trees?

The exact answer will give you a specialist, to call which we strongly recommend. But after reading this article, you will gain some awareness in this matter.

At the end of the technological and production tasks associated with the arrangement of the sewer system in an apartment building, a production building, as well as in private home ownership, it is required to experience the system involved by the method of forced strait. This task is applied to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire sewed sewage unit and the act of testing of internal sewage systems and drainage systems will be a real proof of work on the reception of the object.

Visual check should be accompanied by the test of the internal sewage and drainage systems in the ACT, which is currently submitted by the current regulations of the application of the "D" series, which corresponds to the joint venture 73.13330.2012 "Domestic Sanitary and Technical Systems of the Building" has recently applicable new Actualized working edition of SNiP 3.05.01-85.

Prevent the appearance of dampness, mold and fungus will help install ventilation in the bathroom and toilet. This should be provided before the start of major repairs. In these rooms, there are constant temperature differences and the humidity of the air is increased, which will certainly affect the state of the walls and the ceiling, where the pathogenic flora will begin to develop. For work, you can invite the wizard or do it yourself.

Types of ventilation systems

Ventilation in the bathroom of a private house or cottage is pretty simple: the air channel is located under the ceiling and is displayed on the roof or in the overall hood. When opening the door, the air flow enters the room and goes through the pipe, creating a natural circulation.

In apartment buildings, the situation is a bit more complicated: the entire entrance is connected to one ventilation channel. In apartments located on the lower floors, the risk of clogging the air exchange system is much higher.

Forced ventilation in the bathroom.

The main types of ventilation include:

natural;
forced;
combined.

The choice depends on the place of residence and state. In high-rise buildings, preferably forced ventilation.

How does a natural air exchange

Properly installed extractor works very simple: the air falls into the bathroom or toilet, and then goes out through the ventilation shaft. The difference in temperatures in the room and on the street creates a craving, with the help of which air flows are constantly moving.

When air outputs from the hygienic room, a zone of reduced pressure is created, the difference compensates for the inflow from the street, entering through the open window when carrying out. Thus, natural ventilation occurs, which is called the supply.

Natural ventilation can not occur if the door to the bathroom or toilet closes hermetically. For normal circulation of air flows, it is necessary to provide a slit between the door and the floor, through which the fresh air will continue to flow.

If there is a violation of natural or mine) problems instantly arise: humidity increases, unpleasant odors appear, condensate can accumulate on smooth surfaces and heating pipes.

Defining a blockage in a pipe or mine

The working condition of natural ventilation is better to check in the cold season. For this you need:

open the window in the house or apartment for the receipt of cool air;
close by applying a sheet of paper;
if the sheet is not pressed the air flow tightly, then the ventilation is clogged.

The degree of blockage can be determined by paper behavior. If it holds weakly, the air passes, but not in full. If the sheet does not hold at all, the channel is completely clogged. And in that, and in another case, cleaning or installation of a device for forced ventilation is required.

Forced ventilation

Unlike natural, forced ventilation in the toilet and the bathroom provides a fan built into the air exchange system. When it is selected, it is necessary to consider that it will consume electricity and work with high humidity.

Installation of ventilation in the bathroom and toilet, its cost, durability, performance and noise level depend on. It happens three types:

diametral;
axis;
radial.

The first device is not suitable, it is designed to work in air conditioning systems and heat guns. You need to choose between two other types of devices.

The axial model differs from radial lower cost and greater power, but it produces more noise. The operating wheel of the axial fan is driven by the electric motor, the air flow goes along the axis of the motor, it is installed directly onto the hill for the exhaust.

The operation of radial fans is based on centrifugal strength, so electricity consumption and noise can be reduced by changing the slope of the blades. Install such a device in the ventilation pipe, at some distance from the lattice.

How to choose a fan

Buying the desired fan is hampered by a large range of diverse models, so it is better to use the tip. When choosing a exhaust device, several factors are taken into account:

These indicators will help to determine the choice. You can calculate the necessary performance according to the following scheme:

determine the area of \u200b\u200bthe room;
multiply it to 5;
add 20% to the resulting number.

This will be the choice of device performance with a small margin. The alleged change of air indoors is at least 5-8 times a day.

Installing an exhaust device

You can install the fan in the toilet with your own hands, as in the bathroom, you can, if there are already ready-made air ducts. Before starting the installation, it is necessary to check them for blockages, and if necessary, clean the channels with a special jarshik. If the air exchange is not restored independently, it is better to call a specialist who will do it professionally.

With a separate location of the bathroom and toilet, it is enough to put a fan in one of the premises, provided that they are connected by the ventilation hole in the common wall and the air freely circulates between them.

With a wall axial fan, everything is simple - it is installed on top of the ventilating hole:

1. The wall around the entrance to the shaft is missing with polymer glue, silicone or liquid nails.
2. The operating part of the fan is completely intermedible in the hole, and the outer is tightly pressed against the wall.
3. Install the grid and fix the facial cover with self-draws or dowels. Usually they come complete with the device.
4. Put the cable and connect it to the power grid.

Stages of installation work are performed in the following sequence:

1. The cover of the terminal box is unscrewed.
2. The electrical wires are inserted into the retainer, which is located on the lid.
3. The wires are connected to the terminals with the inscription "Linear Phase" and "Zero".
4. The lid put in place.
5. The device is included in the outlet to check the correctness of the connection.
6. The diameter of the air duct leads in accordance with the size of the fan. If necessary, use an additional plastic tube.
7. The instrument is mounted in the air duct pipe at some distance from the grille. To do this, use converted clamps with rubber seals or special flange compounds with adapters (at square section). When attaching, at least 4 bolts are used.

The lattice of the ventilation hole is placed in place, and the wires are closed with a special box to protect them from moisture.

Some people in order to save electricity prefer to automatically turn on the fan when lighting light in the bathroom or toilet. The operation of the device in this mode may not be enough to maintain the optimal microclimate. This must be considered when connecting wires with a switch.

In the absence of confidence in their own forces, it is better to contact the specialists. They will quickly solve the problem of ventilation and carefully fulfill all the work in compliance with the rules and norms.

When installing a mixed system (natural and forced), you must have two exhaust holes. In one of them a fan will be installed. The mixed supply-exhaust system is used in large rooms, with high humidity, where there is not enough ordinary supply ventilation.

Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is an indispensable condition, since it is precisely in these rooms that the overall humidity of the air is increased and there are usually unpleasant odors. If the ventilation system is not installed or is not fully effective, then in the bathroom rooms not only the resistant smell will be maintained, but also a favorable microclimate will be created for the development of mold and fungus with which it is very difficult to deal with.

Everyone knows that steam and heated air rise up, and if they won't find the exit, most of the evaporations will sit on the surface of the ceiling and the top of the walls, where it is most often possible to see the black spots of the microflora colonies. We must not forget that any fungus is multiplied by disputes that are thrown into the air. Together with the air, then they are inhaled by households, and this can lead to the emergence of allergic reactions, diseases of the respiratory system, asthma and other serious illnesses.

Basically, the issue of carrying out effective stands up to the owners of private houses, as in high-rise buildings it is pre-layered in the project of the building, and Ventkanals are divided into the premises of the bathroom and kitchen. However, for the owners of the apartments, information can be useful - not always "full-time" ventilation system fully copes with its duties, and certain adjustments are required.

Types of ventilation systems

First of all, you should familiarize yourself with the existing system ventilation systems.

Ventilation systems are divided into two main types - natural and forced.

Natural ventilation works only due to the free movement of air from the heightened pressure area to lower, that is, without the use of special devices and devices. It is this type of ventilation that is designed in the apartments of most multi-storey houses. The size of the ventilation windows (trunks) in the bathroom and the toilet (individual or aligned) and in the kitchen, the configuration and the ability of ventilation rudders are designed to create a natural movement of air from residential premises with the desired amount of air exchange.

Forced ventilation involves installing fans. Very often, this system is installed in the bathrooms and in the kitchens of private houses. However, some housing owners in high-rise buildings, wishing to improve the air ventilation, install the fan and in the conditions of the apartment.

In addition, the forced ventilation systems are divided, depending on their basic functions, the following types:

Exhaust ventilation. In this system, the air rises under the ceiling with a fan is drawn and displayed on special channels into the street. Usually this scheme is used in a complex with a natural ventilation system. This is the most common option for private construction conditions.

For example, in this illustration, an option is presented through an air intake from the street, with its further compulsory tap across the kitchen and sanitary facilities.

- In this system, the fan operates on the air supply, and its output for the full cycle, the ventilation is produced naturally through the ventilation channels. In practice, in residential construction, such a scheme is infrequent - it is more important to create conditions for an effective air outlet outside in the required volume.
The supply and exhaust system implies the injection of air into the room, and its forced removal of them. It is characteristic of bulk structures, for houses of a large area, in which the possibilities of natural tributaries and air outflow are clearly not enough.

Types of fans

Since the most effective for a residential building is precisely an exhaust ventilation system, with a natural influx of air through "clean" residential premises and its forced assigned to it through the kitchen and the bathroom, it is worth a few words to say about exhaust fans. They are divided into types according to the places of their installation - these are axial, channel, roof and radial.

Axial wall (overhead) fans.

The axial fan consists of a housing having a type of cylinder, inside of which a wheel with console blades installed on the axis of the electric motor. When rotating, the blades are captured by air and activate its seat outlet.

This type of device is fixed in the ventilation channel window on the wall (or ceiling) of the bathroom or toilet. It is very simply mounted at the expense of a well-thought-out design, and it looks quite aesthetically, so it can be called the most popular for installation both in a private house and in the apartment.

Channel fans.

Channel axial fans are used in household practice not so long ago and not so wide as overhead axial, since their independent installation is quite complicated. However, sometimes it is impossible to do without them, for example, in cases where the area of \u200b\u200bthe ventilated room is more than 15 m².

Channel fans are installed and in cases where they want to reduce the noise level from the device in the room of the bathroom or other premises of the private house.

This type of fan can be installed on different sections of the ventilation channel. It is placed in a special box case, or it can itself be a connecting element for two parts of the ventilation pipe. It is very important that free access is provided to the instrument, since it periodically needs to be cleaned and lubricated.

Air ducts in which channel fans are installed are three types - these are flexible, semi-rigid and hard.

Flexible channels are mounted easy enough, so they are choosing most often. However, they are less reliable, and their service life is much less than that of rigid or semi-rigid air ducts. An indental owner will definitely make a choice in favor of reliability.

Radial fans.

The radial fan consists of a motor located on the axis of rotation of the wheel with blades, which is placed in a closed metal box having a characteristic spiral shape.

During the operation of the fan blade, it is started to rotate, capturing the air out of the room, which falls from the fan through the outlet opening of the casing into the air duct.

To install in residential buildings it is recommended to choose radial fans with blades-shovels bent back. Although they have several lower pressure indicators, such devices are distinguished by the best "linearity" in adjustments, the large working range and, most importantly, are not so noisy compared to fans with blades, bent forward.

Radial fans are well tolerated with high loads and are quite economical in operation.

Roof fans.

As can be understood from the name of these devices, they are installed on the roofs of apartment and private houses.

The design of the roof fan includes such elements as the engine, a wheel with blades on the axis of rotation, vibration-insulating (damping) gaskets, an apparatus device.

The root fan may have axial, multilave or radial design. The latter is most in demand, since the least good and provides high performance with minimal electricity costs.

Ventilation forced systems can operate both automatically and in manual mode, have one level of pumping or several speeds.

Unregulated ventilation has only two mode positions: "enabled" and "turned off".
A more flexible system that has several velocities that are selected by the switch will be more flexible.
The most economical fans with an adjustable speed of revolutions in which the rotational speed is attached to the blade wheel corresponding to the required current load on the system. Changing the speed occurs fairly smoothly, with the help of special automatic controls and control units.

Basic regulations and requirements for the organization of ventilation

It's time to move to the question of choosing the necessary and toilet. But immediately the main question will immediately rise about its most important characterization - performance, that is, the ability to pump a certain amount of air per unit of time.

In this aspect it will be difficult to understand if it is for starters not to get acquainted with the main regulations on the organization of ventilation in a residential building or apartment.

It is necessary to rely on this issue on the main guidelines - relevant sections and applications SNIP 41-01-2003 ("Heating, ventilation and air conditioning") and SNiP 2.08.01-89 * ("residential buildings").

According to the requirements of this document, a forced artificial ventilation system must be installed in the premises where it is necessary for sanitary standards, but natural ventilation, that is, a window or a fortage, there is no normal ventilation in them.

In order not to refer the reader to SNiP tables, the following is generalized information that will be required to calculate ventilation.

Type of room	Ventilation rates		Notes
	Air inflow from the outside	Air extractor outside
Premises of residential zone	The multiplicity of air exchange is not lower than 0.35 times / hour, but at the same time the receipt of at least 30 m³ per person.	-	The calculation is based on the total volume of the apartment (at home) or on the number of real people
Premises of residential zone	3 m³ per 1 m² area of \u200b\u200bresidential premises	-	Calculation is carried out from the area of \u200b\u200bresidential premises at home
Kitchen
· With electric stove	-	Not less than 60 m³ / hour
· With 2 kontal gas stove	-	Not less than 60 m³ / hour
· With 3 kontal gas stove	-	At least 75 m³ / h
· With 4 kontal gas stove	-	Not less than 90 m³ / hour
Bathroom	The inflow from the premises of the residential zone	At least 25 m³ / hour
Restroom separate	The inflow from the premises of the residential zone	At least 25 m³ / hour
The bathroom combined (bathroom + restroom) individual	The inflow from the premises of the residential zone	Not less than 50 m³ / hour

There is in SNiP, of course, norms and for more specific visits: dryers, ironing, isolated laundries and others. But in the context of this article, they are not particularly interested in us - we will talk about the average apartments or houses. You can easily be limited to the above values.

But why do we need to know the indicators of the supply of natural ventilation in the premises of the residential zone? And the fact is that the apartment or house should be considered as a single balanced "body". In order to be effective, and the bathroom, toilet and kitchen are constantly ventilated from the residential area, the exhaust devices installed in them should be able to cope with this task. Simply put, the volume of the drawn air can no longer be less than the incoming. There is such a notion as the air balance equation, and when selecting ventilation plants, it is necessary to strive for its maximum compliance.

Σqprit. \u003d Σqves.

Σqprit.- Required total air flowing with air ventilation.

Σqvit.- Required exhaust ventilation performance.

Failure to comply with this equality in one direction or another can cause unwanted consequences - stagnation of air, penetration of smells from the kitchen, and even worse - from the restroom, in the living rooms, the accumulation of dampness in the corners or on window slopes, unpleasant drafts and other negative phenomena.

Constantly fogging windows - a sign of poor ventilation of the premises.

The ever wet surface of the windows on the windows is half a misfortune, only an external sign is quite a serious problem. And what needs to be taken in this case - read in a special publication of our portal.

To determine the right part of our equation, it will have to carry out calculations for the necessary inflow of air.

The most correct approach will be the calculation in three parameters - according to sanitary standards for each living, by the multiplicity of air exchange in terms of the entire home or apartment, and according to the standards for each meter of the area of \u200b\u200bresidential premises. Then it will be left to compare the results obtained and select the maximum indicator - it will be the required value of air inflows for high-quality ventilation.

Well, then, based on the value obtained, it will be possible to move to the distribution of forced exhaust ventilation to achieve the desired equality.

For example, the settlement for the house with a total area of \u200b\u200b120 square meters.

Have problems calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe room?

Typically, the area is easiest to take from the existing plan of the house. If there is no reason for some reason, but you have to calculate it yourself. In a special publication of the portal, various examples are considered - from the simplest rectangular premises to the rooms of an unusual complex configuration, and convenient online calculators are signed for quick and accurate calculation.

For convenience of calculations, you can make a small table:

Rooms at home	Air inflow from the outside			Hood on the street
Other data and settlements	According to sanitary standards for living people	By the multiplicity of air exchange from the total area of \u200b\u200bthe room	According to the standards of 1 m² of useful area	Mounted minimum	Need in real conditions
Number of residence	5 people	-	-	-	-
Living room	-	21 m²	21 m²	-	-
Sleeping 1.	-	16 m²	16 m²	-	-
Sleeping 2.	-	14 m²	14 m²	-	-
Children's	-	17 m²	17 m²	-	-
Dining room	-	15 m²	15 m²	-	-
Kitchen (gas stove 4 burners)	-	12 m²	-	90 m³ / h	150 m³ / h
Parishion	-	5 m²	-	-	-
Hall	-	9 m²		-	-
Corridor	-	3 m²	-	-	-
Bathroom	-	6 m²	-	25 m³ / h	50 m³ / h
Sanusel	-	2 m²	-	25 m³ / h	50 m³ / h
Square in sum	-	120 m²	83 m²	-	-
Ceiling height	-	3.1 M.	-	-	-
Volume in sum	-	120 × 3.1 \u003d 372 m³	-	-	-
Installed norm	30 m³ / hour	0.35 times / hour	3 m³ / 1 m²	-	-
Payment	5 × 30 \u003d 150	372 × 0.35 \u003d 130.2	83 × 3 \u003d 249	90 + 25 + 25 = 140	150 + 50 + 50 = 250
The need for standards	150 m³ / h	130.2 m³ / h		140 m³ / h

So, from three calculated values \u200b\u200bwe accept the maximum - 249 m³ / hour, as it fully meets all the conditions. Round it up to 250 m³ / hour, and give it a summary performance of exhaust ventilation in the kitchen, in the bathroom and in the bathroom.

Kitchen should give more - she has a more significant area and ventilation rates in this room tougher. In our case, it can be removed 150 m³ / hour. This can be a total ventilation + kitchen, but only if the extractor works with the output of the air outward, and not according to the projection principle.

The remaining 100 m³ / hour can be evenly distributed between the bathroom and the toilet (if it is planned to install individual for each room of axial fans). Or, in the case when these rooms are combined with one exhaust system, you can set a common channel or radial fan of the corresponding performance. Obviously, such volumes of exhaust ventilation are quite enough in comparison with minimal norms, even with a good margin.

So, all conditions are fully fulfilled, and the required ventilation unit performance is also defined.

Other fan selection criteria for bathroom and toilet

It is very important to know what else to pay attention to when choosing an exhaust fan for the bathroom rooms, in addition to its performance. These criteria include the following technical and operational parameters:

The level of noise created during operation. The functioning of any ventilating device is accompanied by mechanical and aerodynamic noise. These sound oscillations apply to the air, through the air ducts and surfaces of the walls within which they are laid.

Mechanical noise occurs from wheel vibration with blades, electric motor and casing, in which the entire design is installed.

The aerodynamic noise appears as a consequence of the vortex formation inside the casing in the blade wheel, at the inlet and outlet of the air, when it is moved through the air ducts, as well as during the case ripples.

Increased vibration and noise of the ventilation plant can adversely affect the well-being of the residents of the apartment or at home.

Therefore, for fans installed in residential premises, there are certain limitations of the noise pressure created, and this parameter itself is defined in the product passport (often - even in a certain range of removal from the device).

If the fan is acquired with the possibility of adjusting the engine speed and, accordingly, performance, then preference should be preferred, which can cope with the required setting of the required air volume not at its maximum, but about 0.5 ÷ 0.7 from its incorrect features. So the technique will last longer, and the noise level will significantly decrease - high turns most often are the main cause of noise.

It should be noted that manufacturers install special silencers of one or another design for many fans - be sure to consider this when choosing.

Another important point of noise reduction is to install a fan with rectilinear areas to stabilize air flow that reduces turbulent phenomena. For a channel or radial fan, such sites are desirable to leave on both sides (for axial, it is clear, it is not possible to comply with the fullest). The length of each such plot should be at least 1.5 external diameters of the impeller (turbine).

Fan functionality. Exhaust ventilation systems can be automatic or standard.

Axial conventional fans can work from manual inclusion, or they are embedded in a common room lighting system, that is, when the light is turned on, the exhaust fan is turned on.

The last option is more convenient and economical, but there is some kind of prudency, so that the entire ventilation system of the house does not suffer when the device is off. The outflow of air from the residential zone in the minimum required amount should be ensured constantly.

The automatic design of the device assumes the presence of an electronic unit with a timer, which is set to power on, operating modes and a fan shutdown.

Safety device. Since the fan runs from electricity, the instruments protected from moisture are selected for the bathrooms, on the packaging of which the corresponding label should be.

Choosing a fan, it is worth checking the availability of a quality certificate on the product. It is necessary to purchase such devices necessarily in specialized stores, desirable - models of well-known manufacturers, whose brand itself gives a certain product warranty. Feel free to demand the simplicity of the necessary marks for sale in the passport - to ensure further warranty and service.

Top 9 best fans in the bathroom

	Name	Rating
Best overhead fans
#1	Vents VNV-1 80 kV	⭐ 99 / 100
#2	CATA E-120 GTH	⭐ 98 / 100
#3	Electrolux EAFR.	⭐ 97 / 100 1 - Voice
#4	Soler & Palau Silent-100 CZ Design	⭐ 96 / 100
Top channel fans
#1	Blauberg Turbo 315.	⭐ 99 / 100 1 - Voice
#2	Vents Quailline 100.	⭐ 98 / 100
#3	Era Profit 5.	⭐ 97 / 100
Best Illuminated Fans
#1	CATA E-100 GLT	⭐ 99 / 100
#2	Blauberg LUX 125.	⭐ 98 / 100

Independent installation of ventilation

Install the fan in the bathroom or toilet apartment is quite simple, since the ventilation system in multi-storey houses is already arranged, and the device will only increase the exhaust air hood along with unpleasant odors and humidity.

It is more difficult to install the ventilation system in a private house. But it is also quite possible to do it. Of course, it is best to install all the elements of the system at the construction stage, but it is often necessary to carry out these installation work and in the ready-made structure.

Elements of the ventilation system

If the view of the ventilation system is defined, then you need to prepare all the elements necessary for it in advance dimensions.

The fan is the main component of the system and can be built into the wall or ceiling, as well as the duct box. In the air duct, the device is usually embedded in the case of the planned installation of a complex ventilation system. For example, if the bathroom and toilet are separated (or even spaced) among themselves, then in each of the rooms it will be possible to arrange its own ventilating hole, from which the box or pipes are discharged, connected to a single air duct, equipped with a channel or radial roof fan.
Duct boxes can be made of plastic or metal, have a round or rectangular cross section. Each of them has its advantages, for example, a rectangular option is more convenient to mount to the ceiling or wall, it can be perfectly located above the suspension or stretch ceiling. The round cross section provides a more efficient removal of air, since it does not have inner angles that delay its smooth movement or density.

Air ducts of rectangular section is easier to mount to walls and flow, but round - less "noisy"

Rotary knees are used when using hard boxes. They are installed in complex structures, with a change in the direction of air ducts, with an output through a wall or ceiling and in other cases, according to the assembly plan.
Connecting clutches are used to conjugate individual duct sections.
The check valve is set to avoid the air reverse current when the fan is turned off, or, for example, with strong wind on the street.
Elements for fixing ducts. To do this, you can use homemade or ready-made brackets (clamps), which are usually installed every 500 ÷ 700 mm, depending on the placement location.
The ventilation grids, installed on the input and outlet of the system, will be required in cases where the channel fan is selected between the two parts of the air duct. One ventilation grille will be needed for mounting it on the outlet of the system, when installing an overhead axial fan.

Installation of the ventilation system

Installation of the ventilation system is carried out in different ways, depending on the selected design, and on whether it is updated or is updated again. Therefore, before starting to install, you should draw up a detailed scheme for which it will be easier to work.

If it is decided to update the already installed ventilation system, it is best to replace the air duct to a new one. In the case when this fails, it will be necessary to thoroughly clean the old duct from garbage and layers on stacks.
Before laying the ventilation box, it is necessary to determine the place of installation of the fan in advance. The optimal installation site of the device will be a wall opposite to the doorway. In this case, the ventilation system will work more efficiently due to the natural air intake in the form of a draft.
The next step in the wall is cut new or, if necessary, expanding to the desired dimensions already existing ventilation window.
The ventilation air duct is displayed in the arranged hole, then gradually mounted, is paved in accordance with the scheme and is fixed in the attic of the structure, or is carried out through the attic overlap and roof.
If the channel is displayed on the street through the outer wall, it is recommended in the vent hole from the side of the street to hind the pipe that is raised vertically at least 500 ÷ 1000 mm. If you install only a protective grille on the through hole, the room will not have time to heat up when the heating system is running - all heat to the draft will quickly go through ventilation.

The ventilation tube derived through the roof of the building requires a device of reliable waterproofing. For this purpose, special waterproofing cuffs can be used, which are put on the pipe and are fixed on the roof.

Another option to install the system can be the installation of a fan into the ceiling and connecting it to a flexible ventilation duct (corrugation), which is connected to the outlet, a closed protective grid, installed under the roof sofit. This installation method is possible both in a complex with a suspended ceiling, and without it, since the box may well pass in the attic.

In case of installation of a complex ventilation system, when the bathrooms are separated, and the ventilation must be connected to one general air duct, you can do the same as shown in this scheme. In the overall ventilation channel, inserts are installed with nozzles that will go into rooms through the suspended ceiling, and the air duct itself can be revealed to the street through the wall. In this case, two fans can be installed, one for each room or one, channel or installed on the side of the street and closed with a special casing.

After holding and fixing the air ducts, it is necessary to accurately install the axial overhead fan itself, which is inserted into the box and secure on the wall convenient in each particular case and, of course, reliable way. It is necessary to take into account the presence of vibratory loads, so that the fastening elements do not break out over time.
Before finally fasten the axial fan in the window, you need to connect the device to the power supply. The wire connecting the fan with the switch is recommended to enter into a special plastic cable channel, fixed on a wall that can be placed along the ceiling or hide over the suspension design.

The fan is connected to the power supply through the connecting terminals, which must be hidden under a special cover or casing, so that the active impact on them of high humidity is expelled.

Depending on the design, the terminal block is located differently, but the connection scheme is always attached to the fan, which will help navigate in this matter.

If it is decided to join a fan with a light switch, then this switching should be done in about the way as shown in this scheme:

Connection in this method is carried out in a distribution box specifically installed for this, where the "zero" and "phase" wires of the fan and lighting are connected using the terminals. A "phase" is interrupted on the switch, and there is already a connection to both instruments.

By the way, if it is good to think about it, then such a scheme is very irrational. We simulate the situation - the man accepted the bath or souls, lasted, dressed, left the bathroom and redeemed the light. During this time, an excess of moisture is unlikely to be completely elongated with a fan, and "pairs of post" remains in the room. A similar situation and use of the restroom. It will be wiser with such a connection to provide a temporary delay, at least 5 ÷ 10 minutes by installing a simple time relay in the fan circuit.

By the way, if you wish, you can find electronic timer control devices and ventilation devices developed precisely for these purposes.

When installing a channel fan, it is necessary to thoroughly consider it to connect it to the power supply, especially if the ventilation channel is planned to be carried out through an attic room. Through the ceiling, it will be necessary to pave an electrical cable, and it itself is in all its length, all its possible connections, as well as the passage through the overlap, should be securely extinguished.

If the system is mounted under the ceiling of the premises, then the air duct together with the fan can be hidden over the suspended ceiling. In this case, the vent hole can be organized in the ceiling, where the air duct is displayed and fixed, and then cover it with a decorative-function lattice window.

Video: How to independently install an exhaust fan in the bathroom or in the toilet

Checking the installed system

After completing the installation of the ventilation system, it is necessary to check it. In order to carry out such control, no tools will not need - it is enough to bring the paper sheet of the paper or a lit candle to the lattice. If the paper sheet attracted to the lattice, and the flame of the candle will lean towards it, then we can say that the fan works quite efficiently.

If you need to increase the craving, then you can stimulate a small artificial draft. To do this, a narrow sliding window is cut into the bottom of the bathroom door or a series of holes is dried. These cuts are then closed on both sides of a specially designed ventilation grille. It, depending on the design and type of holes done, is inserted into the through opening, it can be glued to the door or fastened with self-draws.

The health and well-being of residents of the private house largely depends on the qualitative characteristics of the air, which they breathe. In apartment buildings, the ventilation of residential premises designs and assembles the developer. In her house it is necessary to worry about the owner on their own. The ventilation system mounted in the private home bathroom is natural and forced. Which one to choose, think you.

Natural ventilation is suitable for houses built from "breathable" materials. Forced ventilation is required for houses erected using modern hermetic materials. The forced hood is selected for the bathroom in a private house, taking into account the square of the room of the bathroom and the number of tenants.

For the efficient operation of a natural ventilation system in a country house, it is necessary to organize the influx of fresh street air and an outflow of air masses through ventilation mines. In the house with wooden windows, fresh air can be leaked through microscopic slits in the frames.

The optimal height of the ventilation supply valve in the outer wall of the house is considered the distance from 2 to 2.1 meters plastic windows with multi-chamber windows is preferably embedded for regular outdoor air flow climatic valves. Replace these windows on the windows can supply valves installed in the bearing walls under the windowsill over the batteries or side of the window openings.

At the same time, cold air flows coming from the street will be mixed with warm air, heated batteries. This means that the house does not appear unpleasant and dangerous drafts.

How does the air fit in the bathroom?

The new air portion of the new air comes from other residential premises of the house through a 2-2.5-centimeter gap between the floor and the door blade, provided when mounting the door in the bathroom. Another option of air intake in the bathroom is the purchase and installation of special doors, in the canvas in the lower part, the presence of ventilation holes in the form of lattices or round windows is provided. Sometimes for these purposes, the door in the bathroom is not tightly covered, especially when it does not use it.

Interior bathroom doors equipped with four round holes, closed decorative lattice elements

Where is the couples and smells from the bathroom?

Expanded channels serve ventilation mines, directed vertically upwards. The bathroom should have its own separate ventilation channel, the side output to which is designed in the upper part of the wall in the sanitary and hygienic room.

A direct exit to Ventkanal cuts through directly in the ceiling of the bathroom. It is in these channels that pairs are delayed, as well as all foreign smells. The ventilation window is closed with a decorative grid. In no case can not stick the windows for ventilation by wallpaper or other finishing materials.

With the right installation of natural ventilation in the bathroom there will be dry air. Thanks to the timely assignment of wet air, you will not come across the problems of the appearance of mold and rotting materials from which your home is built.

The ventilating window in the bathroom wall has a round shape and closes with a light decorative grid in the white ceiling tone

Ventilation device for two rooms

In a two-story house-cottage through a ventilation mine, which is located from the bathroom located on the first floor of the object, you can organize an air extractor from the room of the second floor.

At the same time, they are cut into Ventkanal not immediately at right angles, but through a small knee, the part of which is parallel to the exhaust riser.

It turns out that the air is dragged through the hole below the entrance to the ventilation shaft. It is done in order to prevent suction of elongated wet air from the bathroom in a living room on the second floor.

Installation of ventilation canal

To collect and install the ventilation channel in a private house, a diverse-spent air straight to the street, you can from ready-made warmed elements. Such ventilation systems are manufactured by well-known manufacturers and are collected as a constructor. The cost of them is high.

Choosing suitable materials

Solve the problem of the orange-colored sewer pipes, which are used to carry out the outside network of autonomous sewage. The walls of these pipes do not crack in the cold.

Pipe diameter Choose from room area: 100 or 150 mm. The length of the entire pipe is calculated on the basis of the fact that Ventkanal should be placed above the roof half a meter. The higher the pipe, the stronger the thrust.

Drinking the ventilation holes

To the upper end of the pipe put the plug so that the precipitate does not fall inside the ventilation pipe channel. To remove the air at the top of the plastic pipe, they are made in a circle of oblong slits, the width of which is 20 mm, and the distance between adjacent holes is 30 mm. The length of the fixed rectangular windows should reach 250 mm.

Insulation of the walls of the ventilation pipe

In order for inserting Ventkanal to be condensate because of the temperature difference in the attic and on the street, it is necessary to inspire its walls well. Suitable basalt wool or isolon.

The entire pipe is wrapped with a foil insulation shiny side to the walls.
Seam connecting with foil scotch.
Then once again we rocked the insulation so that the seam comes from the other side of the pipe.
And again we sink scotch.
After that, the homemade ventilation pipe-shaft is wounded in a circle all completely scotch.

Ventilation hole device

In the bathroom ceiling in a private house, a hole is made equal to the diameter of the insulated tube. The pipe-hood with the top end is inserted into the opening done in the roof, and starts the lower end in the ventilation window carved in the ceiling overlap.

The homemade vent car can be fixed in a strictly vertical position of the clamps to the rafters of the roof or to other structures available on the attic of the house. In the bathroom, the hole in the ceiling is decorated with a grid, selected in size and color. Self-tapping screws or liquid nails are used.

Installation of supply valve valve

The natural ventilation system in a private house works with the greatest efficiency only if it is thought out of a way to provide a permanent tributary from the street of fresh air. This task is perfectly solved by setting the valve in the wall of the private house. Street air falls into the house even with tightly closed plastic windows, passes through all the rooms and is displayed through the exhaust hole in the bathroom, closed with a decorative grid.

Thus, a permanent air exchange is carried out, which is necessary to eliminate unpleasant smells from the bathroom, saturation of the closed space oxygen, the leads for heavy humidifier outside the house on the street.

The device for the design of the supply valve allows you to understand how fresh air is served from the street into the house and in what volume

To mount the supply valve of the supply ventilation in a log house, you will need:

ordinary drill;
crown with a diameter of 133 mm with a centering drill;
chisel;
a hammer;
panel or mounting foam;
hoven for metal;
screwdriver;
self-tapping screw;
screwdriver.

In the residential room of a private house-cottage in the upper part of the log wall with a drill and nozzle-crowns with a centering drill, a hole is drilled, a diameter of 133 mm. Works lead in several techniques, spinning drilled part of the tree with the help of the chisels and hammer. The hole in the outer wall is given a small bias towards the street with the aim of leading condensate.

The supplied ventilation valve includes a meter metal plastic pipe, the inner walls of which are insulated with basalt thermal insulating material. The insulation does not allow the wall to precipitate in the zone of the drilled hole. A piece is cut from this pipe, the length of which corresponds to the thickness of the log.

The pipe is started into the hole in the wall. Small gaps are insulated with packs, which clog the gaps on the thickness of the wall. You can swap to replace with mounting foam. Next, from the street side, a lattice is put on the pipe equipped with a grid from insects. Decorative lattice comes with a valve.

Installation of the supply valve in a wooden house can be made on their own without the involvement of ventilation specialists

Lastly, the valve itself is installed. To make its installation, you need to remove the adopter and free access to the fasteners. The valve consists of two petals opening under several angles of inclination. On the case there is an arrow, the direction of which is taken into account when installing the valve into the plastic tube.

Additionally, the valve to the wall is secure self-made. After that, we put the headband, snapping it on the fixed part. We return a wheel that regulates the degree of opening of the valve petals.

Forced ventilation of the bathroom room

If the thrust in the ventilation shaft is weak, then increase the outflow of heavy wet air from the bathroom with an electric exhaust fan. Check the force of thrust using a sheet of thin paper or a lit match. If the leaf sticks to the exhaust window, and the flame stretches towards the drawing, then the thrust is good.

With a slight pull or when it is lacking, the single output will be the installation of the exhaust fan. At the moment you can choose exhaust fans for a variety of situations, various sizes and colors. It is advisable to calculate and install the fan of the desired power, then your time spent in the bathroom will be comfortable.

Models of fans with check valve in exhaust ventilation are very popular. As a rule, the check valve is already initially provided in the fan design. The valve curtains are automatically opened with even a small air current from the room and slam in the occurrence of air reverse current - to the room.

Transparent reverse valve curtains operate on the Nipple system. The air current ventilation system is free, back completely blocked

This design is very important when a situation is very important when due to errors when calculating and installing is possible a reverse current of air from exhaust ventilation into the room. And the shutters are autonomous and operate when the fan is turned off.

Choosing a household fan with check valve

Before buying a fan, you must unscrew the decorative panel and measure the dimensions of the opening, if it was provided during the construction of a private house. The data received is sent to the store to choose and buy the appropriate valve appropriate to the dimensions. When choosing into account, it takes a smaller measurement so that the round case enters the window.

Among the models suitable in size, the fan is already selected for a number of other criteria:

design;
electric motor power;
electric consumption class;
the presence of the check valve;
silent;
the mobility of the curtains and others.

A variety of exhaust fan models for the bathroom allow the buyer to choose the device, ideally the corresponding interior of the bathroom

Extension Fan Connection Options

There are several ways to connect an exhaust to the power grid. The device can be activated on sensors (motion or humidity), as well as simultaneously with light. Termination of the fan can also be set in several ways - by timer at a specified time or switch, which must be installed inside the bathroom. Reverse valve automatic and its work does not depend on electricity.

Connecting an exhaust to a light loop provides the beginning of its operation at the moment of light on. At the same time, the fan must have a separate switch, with which it will be possible to disconnect the lighting and ventilation of the bathroom in case of need. The switch can be mounted on the wall or is located on the fan housing.

One of the possible fan connection schemes in the bathroom with a separate switch for the device.

In the latter case, the disconnection of the device is performed by jerking over the rope or chain. Choose a long-lace model so that the hood can calmly turn off family members who do not have high growth. In principle, from a short lace can always be done long by extension.

Trial shutdown has its pros and cons. You can not worry about what you will forget to turn off the electrical appliance. If you need to reduce the opening time or, on the contrary, increase, compared to a given value, then inconvenience appear. Therefore, choose a model with a switch so that the fan worked when you need.

Installation of the fan in the bathroom with your own hands

Before installation, you should carefully read the instructions for installing the axial fan. Get out of the box the device and all components going with it. This is usually fasteners in the form of four dowel-nails. In order not to drill a tile, you can replace a dowel fastening on the adhesive connection. However, remove the glued fan for cleaning and repair will be very difficult.

The magnitude of the minimum distance on which the fastening of the exhaust fan is made to the wall by means of screws twisting by the usual screwdriver

Therefore, we consider in more detail how to make a forced hood from the bath in the house with a miniature wall fan fixed by self-draws.

remove the decorative grille from the device, unscrewing the screw or simply declining it (in various models in different ways);
insert the cylindrical part of the fan body into the exhaust hole;
marker We note the place of drilling the tile under a dowel or self-tapping screw, depending on the material of the wall;
we remove the device towards the device and proceed to drill the tile;
drill the tile can be drill using a special feathery drill, or a perforator, which is a bit more complicated;
plastic dowels are filled into the obtained holes;
in a special opening provided by the manufacturer, drive the wires to connect the motor to the power grid;
if the location of this opening does not suit you, then we drill a new hole in the hull panel;
set a household fan, combining eye dryers in a housing with drilled holes;
screwed screws diagonally so as not to twist the plastic body of the device;
remove the fan impeller, freeing access to contacts inside the instrument;
in a clobal block, we start the stripped ends of the wires and clamp them with the bolts;
klema block put in place, laying the wires in a special groove;
check the performance of the installed fan by turning on the light with a parallel connection or by pressing the appliance's own switch;
after checking, you snap the decorative grille on the fan body.

Forced hood is mounted and ready to fight with wet and contaminated air in the bathroom.

Connecting the wires is carried out using various clermets. It is not allowed to use wires to twist the wires, isolating them with a tape

Note! Wires must be added in advance under the tile during the cladding of the walls in case of installation of forced ventilation. If this was not done, then the wiring lead along the tile in plastic boxes, which are glued to the cafél with polymer glue.

This video shows the installation of a ceiling exhaust fan in the bathroom, which is located on the project on the lower floor of a private two-storey house.

Ways to combine two types of ventilation

With the hood enabled, the volume of the incoming and discharge air increases. During the device to turn off the device, the ventilation process of the residential premises is practically absent. This is due to the fact that the fan housing completely overlaps the clearance of the ventilation window. Propeller blades interfere with the natural outflow of air from the bathroom. The problem is solved in two ways.

Insert a dual grid in a large ventilating window, in which there is a round window under the fan and several additional slotes for the natural outflow of air.

There are fans with different diameters of the housing, so you can choose a smaller device than the vent hole. When the fan is turned off, the air will go through a simple grid under the device.

If the ventilation window is small, then the fan is on the legs of 1.5-2 cm. The legs do not give the lattice to the wall tightly to the wall. In the articulated space, the air is delayed under the action of the force of the thrust formed in the mine, and goes through the holes, not closed with a round body of the fan.

The legs make their own hands from ordinary foam. Self-tapping screws are well through this material. Fontoam legs also serve as a shock absorber that reduces the degree of vibration of the working exhaust.

An example of integrating two types of ventilation - forced and natural - in the private house in the bathroom

Having learned in detail how to make a bathroom hood in a private house, you can decide yourself - under the power you have this task or not. Perhaps the best solution will appeal to the company providing services in your region on the installation of all known types of ventilation.