When a balcony requires major repairs, it is important to think over everything. These are new glazing, internal and external cladding, window sills and a threshold. Of course, I want to do everything beautifully, durable and at the same time not very expensive. A modern material such as plastic meets all these requirements. Easy to care for, it creates beautiful and modern finishes that last for decades. The article will focus on finishing the balcony with plastic.

Plastic materials for external balcony cladding

Loggias and balconies made of plastic are becoming more and more popular and are replacing classic wooden cladding. This is due to a number of factors:

• simple and easy to sew even on your own:
• low cost of materials;
• a wide range of colors, shapes and textures;
• long service life without additional maintenance.

Plastic loggia photo

Tip: When choosing siding for a south-facing balcony, it is not recommended to use bright colors. Over the years, they will fade and there will be a difference of several tones with the side parts.

Plastic siding

• It imitates a wooden lining in shape and texture. More expensive models have a pattern that resembles natural material. These are popular inexpensive panels with a groove / tongue system. Each plank simulates the connection of two or three lining planks, due to which installation is quick and easy.
• It creates a vapor barrier and requires a ventilated facade. Correctly installed, it will decorate the balcony for many years.
• Dust and other dirt on the plastic-lined balcony is easily washed off by rain.
• This material is not afraid of atmospheric influences and is not subject to it in any way. Therefore, it is recommended for covering external walls of loggias and balconies.

Plastic panels

• Made of extruded polyvinyl chloride, they are strong enough to be used for outdoor cladding of balconies or loggias. To maintain its color, even with constant exposure to ultraviolet radiation, special lamination of the panels helps.
• Not so long ago, it was a boring, aesthetically pleasing, cheap coating. But modern lamellas are distinguished by a variety of not only color variations, but also textures, as well as imitation of natural materials.
• Plastic panels are especially suitable for balconies. Overlooking busy streets or highways devoid of greenery. Since they have an antistatic coating that repels dust and is easy to wash with rain.

Tip: when buying in a store, you need to make sure that the plastic panels are designed specifically for outdoor use.

Advantages of plastic balcony cladding

• Although siding belongs to the line of mid-price products, its installation by specialists is not cheap. Thus, when ordering a balcony cladding from a company, its total cost will be quite high. It is for this reason that many try to carry out work on their own, and almost halve the family budget.
• It will not be difficult to mount the material itself and the crate for it, the main difficulty lies in high-rise work. It is convenient if an ordinary balcony in a Khrushchev is glazed, which has a fence made of metal rods. Then everything can be done from the inside. It is much more difficult if you need to sheathe a loggia, whose wall is made of monolithic masonry. In this case, you need to stock up on special high-altitude equipment or a safety rope with a reliable carabiner.

Install a plastic balcony from siding with your own hands

• The siding is convenient in that it has special additional elements, thanks to which it is easily attached and does not require additional adjustment of corners and other joints. First, the outer dimensions of the balcony are measured, the number and length of the outer and inner corners, as well as the finishing and starting strips, are counted. For window cladding, a special F-shaped and J-shaped profile is used to join the balcony with the wall of the house. The length of a standard panel is 3 m, this is quite enough to make a seamless covering, but if the joints are inevitable, then separate connecting profiles are bought for them.

• The size of the balcony is quite small, so it is most convenient for correct calculations to draw its drawing with all dimensions and already on it calculate the required amount of siding and accessories. It is recommended to buy with a margin of 10% more than you need. But siding is only sold in packs, so additional panels will be there anyway.

Required tools:

• grinder for cutting siding;
• marker;
• level;
• roulette;
• puncher;
• screwdriver;
• slats with a section of 3x4 cm for lathing;
• if the balcony is insulated, then a vapor barrier film;
• fasteners.

Balcony cladding with siding. Stages of work

• By the time the battens are fastened, the concrete slab and its fences must be inspected and, if necessary, repaired. Cracks in concrete are filled with mortar with additional reinforcement, and all metal elements are boiled or additionally strengthened. When the concrete base is damaged very badly, for example, it crumbles and the reinforcement becomes visible, then a metal corner is boiled around its perimeter as an armored belt and everything is poured with concrete mortar.

• It is easier and cheaper to make a crate from wooden bars. Thanks to the resulting ventilated facade, they will last for many years. The frame guides are positioned perpendicular to the panels. This means that with their horizontal arrangement, the crate consists only of vertical slats.
• First of all, the upper and lower horizontal rails are attached for the finishing and starting profiles, respectively. This is done around the entire perimeter of the balcony. Next, vertical slats are attached with a pitch of 40-60 cm. That is, for the side part, only three guides are installed: two in the corners and one in the center. For the central part, two in the corners and four in the center are enough. Each time the vertical and horizontal of the structural element is checked. Even a slight inaccuracy in facing will lead to distortions and inconsistencies in parts.

• First, corner extensions are attached. Having measured the desired length in advance, they are cut off with scissors for metal or a grinder. Then, placing the level vertically, first fix one side of this profile. Only after making sure that it is absolutely level can you secure the other side. Since the plastic siding is quite soft and easily warped, a profile is also placed on its second side, and, pulling or pressing in the right places, they begin to fasten it alternately along the entire height.
• In the same way, J-profiles are placed at the joints with the walls.
• Now they also carefully set the starting bar at the very bottom. It is a fairly thin strip of plastic that bends easily. Cutting to the required size (so that it fits into the corner profile, but at the same time remains flat without waves), it is fixed, supporting it from below with a level at the same time checking its correct location.
• It is more convenient to fix the siding itself starting from the central part. It is recommended to check the length of each panel before cutting. It is equal to the distance between corner profiles with a slight allowance to fit into them.
• The first panel is attached to the starter bar so that it closes completely. Sometimes, to fix it, you have to make a physical effort in the form of light pressure or tapping with your palm from the bottom up. This is due to the fact that the connection of the panels is rather tight, and it is necessary to achieve full snapping in. It is important here not to damage the material, since too much pressure will leave a dent that cannot be fixed. It is attached with self-tapping screws to each frame rail. Further, according to a similar principle, the entire cladding is installed. The last plank is cut to length so that it fits snugly under the windowsill. Moving on to the side panels, you need to look so that the drawing completely matches.

• If there are joints on the balcony, then an additional mortgage rail is screwed in this place, and a connecting profile is placed on it. And each of the panels will be wound into the corner and connecting guide.

Install plastic balcony video

Install plastic windows on the balcony

• The next important step in the renovation of the con is the installation of plastic windows. The first step is to determine the design. Will the side sashes be deaf or will it be panoramic glazing to the floor. It also determines which windows will open and the presence of micro-ventilation. Then, using a long tape measure, they measure all the necessary dimensions of the balcony and order ready-made double-glazed windows for the balcony from a company specializing in this. Sometimes, they provide a check-out of the measurers for free.
• Balconies in old houses cannot boast of their exact dimensions, therefore, when measuring the height of future windows, this is done at several points. The smallest parameter goes to the order. It is much cheaper to glaze the loggia, since only one front block is ordered, the balcony is somewhat more expensive because of the two side glasses, but if you want to reduce the cost of glazing, they are made deaf. That significantly reduces daylight in the apartment as well.

• Depending on the state of the balcony, either a lighter but expensive aluminum frame or a heavier but cheap metal-plastic frame is chosen.
• When working on the top floor, the roof must be installed or the existing one must be repaired.
• Further to the concrete slab of the upper balcony or hinged roof, plastic drips are attached, which act as a visor.
• The balcony unit is assembled on the ground, under the windows. Connect the central part with the side ones using corner profiles. All joints are immediately sealed. On the sides and upper part of the structure, special fastening plates are mounted on self-tapping screws. The more there are, the better the ray. The lower part will be bolted to the balcony railing.

Advice: when on the balcony instead of metal railings, masonry is made of foam blocks, the width of which is much greater than the width of the plastic profile, then the windows are set flush with the inner wall. During operation, this will prevent the formation of icing or condensation.

• With the help of strong cables, the frame without glass is lifted onto the balcony and leveled. It is immediately attached to the plates screwed in advance.
• Next, a cornice is mounted, which is screwed to the lower window profile with self-tapping screws. All large gaps are blown out with polyurethane foam, and small gaps are filled with a transparent sealant suitable for outdoor use.

How to install a plastic frame on a balcony

• The final stage is the installation of blind double-glazed windows and the fastening of the swing-out window sashes.

Tips for installing plastic windows

• Although plastic profiles are slightly affected by temperature fluctuations, they are recommended to be installed in the warm season. So, if the temperature drops below +5 ° C, then later in the windows the necessary tightness of the seams may be violated, which will lead to drafts.
• When self-installing plastic glazing, you need to know the golden rule: a standard small balcony requires at least 12 attachment points.
• The window structure along the entire bottom must have a mounting plate designed for the installation of a window sill. In its absence, it is recommended to lift the balcony block to the desired high-rise on its own so that the window sill goes under it, and is not attached to the profile itself.

How to install a plastic window sill on a balcony

• But the installation of plastic windows is not finished there. It is required to correctly install the window sill, which will become the finishing line in the glazing of the balcony.
• It is often made multifunctional. For example, in the classic version, it serves as a stand for flowers and seedlings, and the wider it is, the more it can fit on it. Sometimes it acts as a table for the workplace. And if its width is artificially increased, then it is convenient to equip a cabinet under it for storing blanks.

Stages of work

• The first step is to measure the future window sill. If necessary, a drawing is made, on which all dimensions are noted.
• Further, the surface is cleaned from construction dust and debris. It is better to do wet cleaning so that the material has good adhesion during subsequent foaming.
• It is safest to install a plastic window sill on brackets. To do this, it is wound under a plastic frame (as a rule, it sits on the foam, so this is easy to do). It is not attached to the frame itself, but only later the joint is sealed with a sealant. Under the window sill, special corners are screwed to the wall with a step of 20 cm, and to them, from the bottom side, fixation takes place on self-tapping screws.

• If the width of the base under the window sill is of sufficient width, then the installation is carried out simply on self-tapping screws. The plastic window sill panel is also wound under the profile and directly attached to it with self-tapping screws.
• In both cases, the space formed from below is completely filled with polyurethane foam, when it dries, it is carefully cut off. The joints of window sills and windows are sealed.

How to install a plastic threshold on a balcony

• An important detail in the installation of a plastic balcony is the door sill. Some refuse it, considering it too soft and fragile. In fact, it is a reliable and easy-to-use material, you just need to approach its installation with all responsibility.
• When the plastic threshold on the balcony door bends under the weight of a person, this only indicates that it was installed by unskilled craftsmen. Undoubtedly, the threshold itself in appearance and rigidity is similar to a window sill and is flexible enough, but if the foundation is properly prepared for it, it will last for more than a dozen years without deformation.

There are two ways to go, both of which guarantee high quality results. But one of them is easier to execute, the other will require more effort:

• installation of the threshold on separate evenly spaced supports;
• arrangement of a monolithic concrete slab.

Installation of a plastic threshold for a balcony door on separate supports

This type of installation is the simplest, and as a consequence, the most frequently used.

Advice: experts recommend placing the plastic threshold only on the side of the apartment. On the balcony, it will not only take up space, but it is not provided for by the very design of the balcony. This will lead to the fact that you have to take a rather large step in order to step over it and go to the balcony. If in an apartment the width of a standard threshold corresponds to a person's foot, then narrow panels, about 15 cm, are installed on the balcony. This is clearly not enough for an adult to step on. Next, we will take a closer look at how to install a plastic threshold on the balcony door from the side of the apartment.

Tools required for work:

• level equal to or slightly less than the width of the doorway;
• square with a right angle;
• hammer;
• construction knife with a strong and sharp blade;
• anchor points from sawn timber (you can use old window frames from the balcony).

Stages of work

• The length and width of the thresholds for sale have standard dimensions, so when they are adjusted to fit a specific door, there is always a trim. It will come in handy to make preliminary adjustments in height.
• It is placed from below under the door frame from one of the edges and prepared wooden supports are placed underneath. If there is no power tool for sawing, then it is allowed to chop them with a chisel or a knife and hammer. Their size is adjusted in such a way that the piece of the threshold to be tried on is firmly pressed against the frame.

• When this is achieved, it is immediately leveled horizontally. And they begin to lay the next row of anchor points from below, immediately leveling the entire structure with a level. As it is already clear, all preparatory work is performed on this segment, before setting the real threshold. To make the structure rigid, it is enough to install 6 such stands on a medium-sized door.
• We remove the trim and put the prepared threshold in its place. Using a square and a level, its location is verified. The possibility of deflection is determined at the same stage. Why do they stand on it and pass it several times along the entire length. Supports are added at specific locations if necessary.

• And only after making sure of the quality of the work, the threshold is removed in order to apply polyurethane foam on the point supports in an even layer. It is recommended to pre-moisten them slightly with water from a spray bottle. A threshold is placed on top and pressed with a load until the foam is completely dry.

Installation of a plastic threshold of a balcony door on a screed

This method takes a lot of time, so companies that install plastic windows on a balcony do not use it. But if the work is carried out independently, then it is preferable to do it according to this principle.

• The first step is to mount a blind area of ​​tightly knocked together wooden boards. Since the width of the door is small, it is not necessary to put spacers outside. Fittings are laid inside. You can put a metal mesh made of wire with a diameter of 3-4 mm or cut fiberglass reinforcement without knitting.

• Since a small amount of solution is required, it is easier to buy a ready-made mixture in which sand, cement and ogs are added in the right proportion. The required amount of water is poured into the bucket (recommendations are indicated on the package of the mixture) and the dry components are gradually added to it, stirring with a shovel.
• The resulting concrete solution is poured into the formwork and leveled with a wide trowel, vibrating slightly to remove all air bubbles. And leave until completely solidified.
• When the threshold is ready, a plastic pad is planted on it on the foam. This completes the work.

Balconies and loggias

How to sheathe a balcony with PVC panels: think less - do more

From the author: hello, dear reader of the Seberemont repair and construction portal! We will devote this article to one simple, but at the same time, relevant topic: how to sheathe a balcony with PVC panels. We will find out what are the advantages of this finishing material over alternative options, how to work correctly with plastic panels, and also consider several installation methods. In general, today we sheathe the balcony (loggia) with PVC panels.

The title for the article was not chosen by chance. The fact is that even an inexperienced master can sheathe a loggia (or balcony) with his own hands using this material (and indeed not a master at all - he can also). The material is quite light both in weight and in processing. And this is its advantage over, say, OSB or even GCR. Often, balconies sheathed with PVC are completely sheathed with this material, that is, the material is attached both to the walls and to the parapet from the inside, and to the ceiling. And such a picture can be observed in a variety of residential premises, as well as in offices and other public institutions.

What is the reason for such popularity of this material? Now we will find out what makes PVC panels such a popular solution for finishing balconies and loggias.

Advantages, disadvantages and general properties of PVC

Now we will highlight the main advantages of "our hero for", so that you have an idea of ​​what you will be dealing with. So, the advantages of PVC panels:

• light weight. The material does not load the structure, and therefore can be applied almost anywhere: even in a wooden house, even in a panel house, even in a brick one. In a word - versatility in its purest form;
• several mounting options. We will talk about them a little later, in the course of the text;
• an excellent opportunity to lay insulation between our finishing material and the wall. Although, this advantage is given to us by both gypsum plasterboards and OSB boards;
• absolute immunity to moisture. Therefore, the material is used not only on the balcony, but also in the bathroom and even in the interior decoration of car washes. Yes, there is also a moisture-resistant gypsum board and OSB, but this solution will cost more;
• hygiene. Plastic is easy to wash, it does not absorb odors, dirt does not eat into it;
• immunity to temperature influences of the environment. Yes, from an extremely high temperature, of course, plastic will melt, and from extreme cold it will become very fragile, but we are talking about the temperature that we have on the street. Nothing will happen to the panels from the usual summer heat or winter cold;
• ease of installation. As we said in the introduction, even an amateur can handle the job;
• the possibility of using various materials for fixing. Plastic panels can be mounted using dowels / self-tapping screws, and with a construction stapler and staples, and nailed. The method of fastening does not particularly affect the result of the work;
• a wide range of color solutions: from classic white - to the most incredible shades: purple, pink, acid green or toxic orange. There are also panels with various repeating images. In a word, decor for every taste and color;
• a wide range of sizes (10 cm - 25 cm - in width and 2 m - 4 m - in length);
• relatively low cost.

Here is such a seemingly excellent material. But, in fairness, let's list its shortcomings in order to provide you with the most complete picture for making a decision. So, the disadvantages of PVC panels:

• fragility. On the one hand, yes, plastic is very soft and flexible, but on the other hand, the material is quite easy to damage. Not only during the installation process, but also after the completion of the work. The material can be inadvertently damaged by the mop during cleaning or when transporting furniture and other items. In addition, the panel can be damaged simply by pushing it with your finger. In general, the material is quite soft, which is both its advantage and its disadvantage;

• inner emptiness. No, not in a metaphorical sense, but in the most direct sense. Although the panels have stiffening ribs inside, they are hollow. Yes, this makes the material practically weightless, but at the same time it is a significant drawback. For example, you lean on the wall in the place where the sheathing element does not pass and the distance between the beams is more than 1.5 m - you can break the structure with a significant degree of probability;
• exactingness to the structure of wood (frame). The wood must not be damp or improperly dried. The fact is that after installation the tree will begin to shrink and the panels will "lead". As a result, the wall will be curved, and this is not at all what we need;
• flammability. I'm not sure if there are often sources of open fire on your balcony, but nevertheless, the flammability of the material should be considered. The material does not burn so much as it melts, giving off pungent, saturated smoke. Moreover, he corrects rather quickly;
• susceptibility to abrasive agents. The panels are easy to clean, but they cannot be cleaned with abrasive cleaners. The same goes for brushes and scrapers. The smooth surface of plastic panels is very easy to scratch, therefore, only soft sponges and liquid detergents should be used during cleaning;
• chemical activity. It is not a fact that in the context of our conversation this is very relevant, but in order to give you the most complete picture of the material in question, this property should also be taken into account. You are unlikely to treat PVC with acid, but even if you want to wipe the contaminated area with a sponge soaked in alcohol (hydrogen peroxide), it would not be a good idea. The alcohol composition will erase the gloss from the surface.

And so, we have decided on the strengths and weaknesses of the finishing material. As we can see, it has significant drawbacks, but this is not at all a reason to refuse to use it. Still, the material is very practical and versatile, and its weaknesses and characteristic features should be taken into account and not violate the rules of installation and operation. In any case, now you know exactly what you cannot do with the clapboard. Now let's talk about what to look for when buying in a hardware store:

• weight / number of stiffeners. As a rule, in shops at the stand you can find several samples of lining. If you take one of them in your hands and feel that it is suspiciously light, you should not buy it. Most likely, there is an insufficient number of partitions (stiffeners) inside, which negatively affects the strength of the panel;
• Wall thickness. Within the normal range, the wall thickness should be in the range of 0.5–0.7 mm. And if this indicator is less, then, again, the material will be too fragile, and you do not need a large amount of rejection;
• resistance to ultraviolet radiation. Be sure to check this parameter with the seller. If this indicator is too low, - after a fairly short time after installation, the lining will become fragile, like a maple leaf dried in the sun;
• smell. This is perhaps the most (!) Important factor. The lining should not have a strong specific smell (for example, oil). If the mass exudes a pungent, unpleasant odor, this indicates the toxicity and low quality of the plastic. In addition, this smell is unlikely to disappear over time, as an unscrupulous seller, whose main task is to fulfill the sales plan, can convince you of this. Do not take material from this series;
• marriage. Examine the panels carefully for cracks and chips. It is also important that there are no streaks on any of the panels, since characteristic streaks indicate that low quality secondary raw materials were used in the production;
• the presence of a protective film. Each plate must be covered with a protective plastic wrap on both sides. If not, the panels will scratch during transportation. And in general, the absence of a film can only be tolerated by a manufacturer of low-quality products, which, of course, you should not buy.

Well, now you know almost everything you need about the properties and choice of PVC. Another important fact that we cannot ignore. If, after you have read the list of shortcomings, you change your mind about using this material, choose MDF. As a rule, you can buy MDF in the same department of the store where PVC is sold. It is a medium density fiberboard (in English it sounds like Medium Density Fibreboard. Therefore, the boards are called MDF abbreviation).

You should not associate this material with chipboard or fiberboard, since MDF is an environmentally friendly material. In its manufacture, toxic glue is not used, as is the case with the above examples. The only thing in which MDF conditionally loses to PVC is in its resistance to moisture. The material is not designed for exposure to humid environments. Installation methods, by the way, are practically the same for these two materials.

Now we will talk about the installation of this material. And we will start, perhaps, from the ceiling.

Ceiling on the balcony made of plastic panels

To properly mount PVC on the ceiling, you must first make the necessary calculations. Let's start with them.

In hardware stores, PVC panels are usually sold separately: the length of one strip is 3 m / 6 m.But if you have made all the necessary calculations earlier, then in the store they will most likely be kindly cut to you in accordance with the parameters of your room.

• we calculate the area of ​​the ceiling. Suppose the parameters of your balcony are 1.5 × 3 m ⇒ S (ceiling area) = 4.5 m². In principle, knowing what the length and width of the balcony is, you can already go to the store, since this knowledge will be enough for the sellers to provide you with the required amount of material;
• we calculate the amount of material. If the width of the panel is, say, 10 cm, and the length is 3 m, then it would be logical to make the sheathing along the length. This means that we need 15 panels of 3 meters in length to cover the 1.5 x 3 m ceiling.

Keep in mind that you need to keep the material in reserve in case of rejection. This is no more than 20% of the total. Now you need to calculate the amount of timber. Usually, for such purposes, a beam with a cross section of 2 × 3 cm is chosen. But this is in the event that it is not supposed to insulate the ceiling on the balcony. The step between the planks should be about a meter.

Since the timber should be placed perpendicular to the direction of the PVC panels, we will mount it in width, that is, perpendicular to the three-meter wall. If we assume that the step between the panels is 1 m, then we need 6 m of timber (3 by 2 m).

In addition to PVC panels and beams for the construction of the frame (if any), we also need a ceiling plinth. For this purpose, an ordinary floor plinth of the corresponding shade is also suitable for us. It should be mounted in the same way as if you were installing it between the wall and the floor. The only difference is that it needs to be turned over. Naturally, you need to install it only after the walls are finished.

If the perimeter of the balcony is 9 m (P = 3 + 3 + 1.5 + 1.5 = 9), and the length of the plinth is 2.5 m, then we need 4 strips (actually, 3.6, but the plinth available in hardware stores only as a whole). Also, if you use a "classic" floor plinth in your work, then do not forget about the fittings, i.e. about internal corners, connections, screws and dowels.

In general, the necessary fasteners and tools must be said separately.

Here's what we need (or may need in theory) to do the right thing on the loggia / balcony:

• electric jigsaw. This tool will be needed in the manufacture of the frame, as well as for cutting the plastic panels themselves, especially for cross-cutting;
• hacksaw. It is more expedient to perform longitudinal cutting of the elements of the future ceiling using a hacksaw, and not a jigsaw;
• electric drill;
• screwdriver;
• self-tapping screws / dowels (50–120 mm), - the fastening must penetrate into the ceiling by at least 30 mm;
• construction stapler with the necessary set of staples;
• construction level;
• hammer (you cannot do without it during repair work);
• knife. A knife with replaceable blades, used for cutting cardboard, will work.

Now you can proceed to active steps and decisively proceed with the installation of the frame.

As for the installation, you need to decide whether the ceiling will be insulated. If you have a balcony on the last floor, then you still need to insulate the ceiling, because according to the laws of physics, the heated air rises, therefore a significant part of the loss of precious heat falls on the ceiling.

First of all, you need to check if there are any leaks in the overlap. If there is, they must be eliminated without fail (!). From high humidity, mold forms, and it is harmful not only to the body, but also to building materials. If fungal formations take place, then the ceiling (and if they have spread to the walls or parapet, then this also applies to them) must be treated with an antiseptic. A penetrating primer is also suitable for us. It is advisable to apply the product in several layers.

You can insulate the ceiling, as well as the walls, using materials such as:

• mineral wool (mineral wool);
• Styrofoam;
• penoplex;
• penofol. This is the thinnest insulation. But its main advantage lies not in its thickness, as in the previous three, but in the fact that it has a foil coating. Thanks to the foil, it creates the effect of a thermos in the room, reflecting heat like a mirror. Usually it is used after the installation of polystyrene or polystyrene foam.

Now let's get down to the installation work:

• we determine the level at which the ceiling finish will be located and apply the markings;
• we mount the fastening element according to the marked marking. By the way, for these purposes there is a special plinth with a groove for inserting trim elements, which is quite convenient;
• we fix the beam / profile on the floor itself. It should be secured with hanging fasteners and dowels / self-tapping screws. Naturally, all elements of the frame must be in the same plane. To achieve this result, use a thread drawn from corner to corner. It goes without saying that one cannot do without a building level;
• we lay a layer of insulation;
• we will install PVC panels. It is logical that the protective plastic film must be removed before installation.

Before installing the panels, there is one more thing to be sure. Check if the plane of the ceiling intersects with the path along which the windows will open. In other words, is the ceiling interfering with the opening / closing of windows? It would seem that the situation is comical, but, oddly enough, this also happens.

When installing panels on the ceiling, there should not be any special problems: we just insert the strips into the grooves, fix them to the frame using a construction stapler (or screws / nails) and thus cover the entire area. We will focus on the fact that you need to hammer the fasteners only into the upper part of the groove. There is a chance that the last element of our structure will have to be cut to length, according to measurements.

It is possible to construct a multi-level PVC suspended structure, as in the construction of a suspended ceiling made of plasterboard sheets. Read more about this in the article "". Now let's move on to the walls. By the way, another outcome of events is possible: first, installation of panels on the walls, and then on the ceiling.

Wall cladding

As we mentioned at the beginning of our text, plastic lining to the mills can be attached in several ways (in fact, there are two of them):

• fixation to the frame (crate);
• gluing.

The first method should be used if you plan to lay insulation or have curved walls in the room. If you plan to make a logical continuation of the room (kitchen / living room / bedroom) from the loggia / balcony, which is very practical and expedient, you still need to insulate. After all, on the balcony you can not only dry clothes and store all kinds of nonsense. Here you can organize a recreation area, and a greenhouse, and a library, and a workplace with a computer.

In a word, warm yourself, gentlemen!

Insulation materials, tools and materials for wall insulation are the same that were used for finishing the ceiling. And the installation has no fundamental differences. Judge for yourself:

• lathing markings on the wall. Reiki should be laid out perpendicular to the panels. The step between them, as a rule, is 50 cm;
• cutting of lathing elements. Do not remember that the wood must necessarily be dry, otherwise, when it does begin to shrink, it will seriously "lead" the plastic. Moreover, it will "lead" her not at all where we need it;
• fixing the frame elements to the wall. When doing this, do not forget to use a level and a plumb line. This is a very important stage in the work. if adjustment is required, then under the place where the self-tapping screw will be screwed in, you need to put a wooden block of the required thickness. No more, no less. And one more important nuance: the ends of the beams should not reach the side walls by about 2 cm.This distance is called a delatation gap and it is needed so as not to interfere with the tree's free deformation under the influence of changes in humidity and temperature. Being saturated with moisture, for example, in spring and autumn, wooden logs stretch a little and thicken, and when the air is dry, on the contrary, they shrink a little. This is a natural process, and this must be taken into account when working, regardless of whether you are mounting the frame to the ceiling or walls;
• installation of insulation. Any material (be it mineral wool, polystyrene or polystyrene foam) must adhere closely to the frame elements. If it is flush with the bars, then it's great, if it doesn't reach a little, that's also good. But the insulation should not protrude beyond the thickness of the frame. As a rule, 5 cm of insulation is enough to insulate balconies and loggias. Although, the thicker, the warmer. For a parapet, for example, a double layer is required - 10 cm, because this is usually the coldest part. Therefore, we construct a double lathing, but only so that the elements of the frame of the first level do not intersect with the elements of the second. Still, wood is not the best heat insulator. Based on the foregoing, we conclude that we need a timber with a section of 50 × 50 mm;
• inserting a plastic die into the molding;
• fixing the plastic panel to the frame using nails / freezing screws / staples;
• inserting the second board into the groove of the first - and so on.

Logical conclusion

Until next time, dear reader. All the best!

Many apartment owners want to increase the total living space by connecting loggias and balconies to the used premises. For this, these structures are insulated, glazed and sheathed. It is recommended to finish the loggia with plastic panels last, but this is not a prerequisite. If desired, the surfaces can be sheathed separately without insulation and glazing.

For cladding loggias, you can use the following building materials:

• metal profiles. Quite cheap materials, excellent performance characteristics. Universal use, can be used for both internal and external walls;
• wooden lining. An expensive finishing method requires a careful approach. Recommended only for interior finishing. On the external walls, the loggias are negatively affected by atmospheric precipitation, the service life is significantly reduced. In addition, wooden elements require periodic renewal of protective coatings; A more detailed process for finishing a balcony with clapboard.
• plastic panels and plastic lining. The most budgetary option for finishing, universal application. For external surfaces, UV resistant panel grades should be used.

In the article we will focus on the last option for finishing the loggia - with plastic panels.

We will consider the most optimal option - the cladding of a pre-glazed loggia with the installation of insulation. Work can only start after very important prerequisites have been met.

1. Structural survey for actual bearing capacity. This rule applies to old buildings, all architectural elements of which already have significant physical wear and tear. A professional must determine the ability of load-bearing reinforced concrete slabs to withstand additional loads. When critical structural failures are detected, construction measures must be taken to restore their physical strength.

   

   

   In addition, it is necessary to eliminate the places affected by the fungus and take measures to prevent its re-development.

   

2. If the house is located in the city center, then any decoration that changes the appearance of the facade walls must be coordinated with local authorities. This applies to those cases when the outer walls of the loggia will be finished.
3. Checking the linearity of wall surfaces.

   

   If significant deviations are found, they level out. If possible, alignment is carried out during the installation of the frame under the plastic panels.

   

After completing all the preparatory measures, you can proceed to the direct finishing.

Algorithm for cladding loggias with plastic panels

As an example, we will consider the option of installing panels on a wooden frame with simultaneous wall insulation. Only the inner walls will be sheathed.

Step 1. Calculation of the required quantity and selection of specific materials and technologies.

Insulation can be done using pressed or rolled mineral wool, as well as foam plates, these are the most effective materials, they have the necessary thickness to achieve heat saving indicators. Thinner insulation materials are not recommended due to their low efficiency.

Do not believe the advisers that thin foam-based insulation will make the loggia warm. It is better not to insulate the room at all than to throw away money in vain. Wooden slats or metal profiles can be used as a supporting frame. Both options are almost equivalent in terms of durability, but the cost is cheaper to use the option with wooden slats.

Take off the dimensions of the surfaces of the loggia, make a margin for the amount of materials within 10%. Keep in mind that there will always be unproductive waste during any construction work. At the same time, count the number of wooden slats, the dimensions of the lumber are approximately 50 × 50 mm. The thickness of the bars is selected depending on the thickness of the heat insulators. If you have concerns about durability, you can soak them with an antiseptic solution, but this procedure is optional. Structures will not be exposed to direct water impact, wood decay is excluded. To fix the plastic panels and frame elements, you need to use self-tapping screws and dowels.

Step 2. Carry out a close inspection of the surfaces, repair large gaps if necessary. The distance between the slats must be consistent with the dimensions of the insulation and take into account the technical characteristics of the panels. Read the manufacturer's instructions carefully for the best fixing methods.

Step 3. Fix the extreme corner rails, check their position using a level or ordinary plumb bob. Corner cladding elements are attached to them. Mark the location of the rest of the structural frame battens. If the walls of the loggia have large irregularities, then they need to be removed, the surface does not have to be leveled to an ideal state, deviations within a centimeter do not play any negative role.

Step 4. Pull two ropes between the outermost slats, one at the bottom and the other at the top. At the level of the ropes, you need to put all the other slats, constantly monitor their position. The frame elements must lie in the same plane and be strictly vertical. Fastening is done with dowels. Use different shims to align the position. Take all measures so that these wedges do not fall out over time, fix them with glue or small nails.

Lathing for insulation - photo

Practical advice. There is another way of attaching the slats to the walls, it is very convenient, it allows you to use thin slats and easily adjust their position vertically and horizontally, to set the distance between the wall and the frame depending on the thickness of the insulation. To do this, you need to buy U-shaped perforated mounts. They are fixed to the wall, and with the help of numerous holes, the right place for fastening the rails is selected. The "antennae" protruding beyond the plane of the frame are bent towards the plane of the wall.

Inexperienced craftsmen sometimes face the problem of fixing dowels into brick or concrete surfaces, the plastic part does not fully enter the hole. To prevent this from happening, holes should be made 2-3 cm larger than the length of the dowels, this space is enough to accommodate dust that has not been removed by the drill.

In the photo - installation of wooden slats

With a victorious drill, you will have to drill holes in the wooden lath and the wall at the same time. The location of the solders makes drilling in the wood rather difficult. To facilitate this process, do not be lazy to undermine it more often. This can be done using an ordinary circular grinder (grinder). It is advisable to install a thick disc, keep the machine motionless. The sharpening angle must correspond to the original factory one. If it is made sharper, then the drill will sink quickly, if it is duller, then the characteristics of gouging concrete or brick will deteriorate.

Carefully mount the frame around windows and doors. In these places, be sure to install the rails, the end and corner elements of the plastic panels will be fixed to them. It is advisable to buy additional elements from the same manufacturers as the panels. The distance between the dowels is 30–40 centimeters. Fixation is required at the ends. Do not allow the slats to crack, they cannot be left in this state, you will have to completely replace them with new ones.

Step 5. Fix the insulation.

Styrofoam can be fixed with liquid nails or special dowels with wide caps. Mineral wool is attached only with special dowels. Make sure that the fit of the insulation to the slats is as tight as possible. If, for any reason, there are gaps between the frame and the rails, then they should be sealed with polyurethane foam. By the way, foam can be used to glue foam boards to brick or concrete walls.

Step 6. Install the end pieces, the corner pieces are mounted as the plastic panels are fastened. It is better to start work from the simplest corner, as you move along the perimeter of the loggia, you will have practical experience in performing work, all the problems that arise are much easier to solve.

Step 7. Prepare the panels, cut them to length. Take measurements accurately, deviations should not exceed ± 5 mm. This flaw can be "hidden" in the end strips. The panels are fixed to the wooden slats with a stapler, the length of the staples is no more than 6 mm. Adjust the force of impact of the stapler by using the upper spring. When adjusting, check the force of impact on the sections of the rail and the panel; during the hammering of the bracket, the integrity of the panel should not be violated.

Step 8. Begin to mount the panels, the first one should go into the corner or end element, the lower parts into special strips. The plastic panels are connected to each other in a spike / groove; the groove should "look" towards the dead-end wall.

Very important. The quality of the entire cladding largely depends on the correct position of the first panel. Only deviations within a millimeter can be imperceptibly corrected, all that will be more visible.

After the spike of the first panel is fixed with a stapler, the second is inserted into the groove, its position is checked and fixed. The panels are perfectly cut along the axis with an ordinary sharp assembly knife. If you have experience, you can cut off the front and back surfaces in one pass.

Experience is not enough - cut one side first, bend the panel and cut off the other. In the transverse direction, an electric jigsaw is used for cutting (the saw must have fine teeth) or a grinder. Both tools cut perfectly, but working with a jigsaw is much more convenient and safer.

Fixing the last corner panel with self-tapping screws

Features of the cladding of the external walls of the loggia with plastic panels

For cladding the external walls of the loggia with plastic panels, only those materials that are resistant to hard ultraviolet rays should be used. The connection of the panels is quite tight and does not allow water to pass through, but for a guarantee, you can make a waterproofing with plastic wrap. As for heaters, it is better to use polystyrene, it does not absorb moisture, does not get wet and does not change its initial characteristics in terms of heat saving throughout the entire period of operation. The film will serve as additional waterproofing during mechanical damage to plastic sheets.

Decorating external walls of loggias has several advantages:

• the useful internal area of ​​the loggia does not decrease. The thickness of the insulation is regulated only by the climatic conditions of residence, if desired, it can be increased to ten centimeters. Due to this, heat loss is significantly reduced, staying in the loggia becomes more comfortable;
• external walls are protected from destruction, architectural structures are strengthened. There is an opportunity to make the floor insulation of higher quality;
• the appearance of the facade walls is improved. Sheathing materials are selected taking into account the general design style of the building;
• there are no restrictions on the environmental safety of the materials used.

For finishing the external walls of the loggia, it is better to prepare a supporting frame made of galvanized metal thin-walled profiles. But professional builders allow the use of ordinary wooden battens. To increase their stability, it is recommended to impregnate them with any antiseptics. There are no such at hand - you can proliferate or cover the surfaces several times with the cheapest ordinary vegetable oil.

If cracks are found in the walls that do not affect the bearing characteristics of the structure, then there is no need to repair them with cement-sand mixtures. It is enough to moisten the fracture surfaces and seal them up with polyurethane foam. After it dries up, the protruding residues are cut off along the plane of the wall.

And the last important point - do the upper part of the casing very carefully, it is through it that moisture can get in.

Video - The algorithm separated the loggias with plastic panels

Decorating a balcony with plastic panels is one way to turn it into a living space where you can make a seating area, a small office, a greenhouse or a personal gym. Plastic panels have appeared on the construction market for a long time and have already won their audience. Their cost is relatively low, and even a novice master can sheathe a balcony with plastic panels.

Decorating the balcony with plastic is preferable for the following reasons:

• The material is not affected by moisture.
• It will not be spoiled by rodents and insects.
• It does not fade under the influence of ultraviolet radiation.
• Not susceptible to cracking after a certain time of operation.
• Has a high level of strength of the front surface.
• Products are produced in a wide range (just colored panels or with imitation of stone, wood, and so on).

Before sheathe the balcony with plastic panels, you must choose the right finishing material. The modern construction market offers products in widths of 25, 36 and 50 cm. For a beginner craftsman, narrow panels are better suited, since they are easier to work with.

Plastic panels are not afraid of moisture and sunlight, and are also unpretentious in maintenance

Do-it-yourself balcony cladding with plastic panels begins with surface preparation. To do this, you need to do the following operations:

1. Remove the old coating, clean the walls from paint, wallpaper residues, and so on.
2. Tap walls and ceiling with a hammer to reveal weak points. Remove loose fragments.
3. Knock down bulges with a puncher and remove dust from surfaces.
4. Seal the holes with cement-sand mortar and leave to dry for 2-3 days.
5. If the flooring isn't ready yet, now is the time to tackle it.

Preparing walls for finishing with PVC panels

At the very end, the walls and ceiling should be treated with an antiseptic primer 2-3 times at intervals of 4 hours. This is required to protect surfaces from mold and mildew formation.

It is important to remember that finishing work can only be carried out on a glazed and insulated balcony. Also, a layer of waterproofing must first be laid, which will keep the base dry. If mineral wool was used as an insulating material, then 2 layers of waterproofing must be installed to prevent it from getting wet.

Required tools and supplies

Sheathing balconies with PVC panels requires the following tools:

• Building level (you can get by with the simplest one).
• A special knife for plasterboard (it is convenient to use it to cut panels for a balcony).
• Construction stapler.
• Phillips screwdriver.
• Screwdriver or electric drill at low speeds.
• Hacksaw for metal.
• Rotary hammer with 6 mm drill bit.

Tools that will be required for finishing the balcony with plastic panels

To sheathe a PVC balcony with your own hands, you need to prepare a number of consumables:

1. Plastic panels for balconies, starting, connecting and F-profiles, outside corners and skirting boards.
2. Dowels (length - 8 cm, thickness 6 mm).
3. Self-tapping screws, staples, cleats, depending on the selected type of fastening.

Consumables required for the installation of PVC panels

How can you fix products on the surface

To sheathe the balcony with plastic, you must also choose the method of attaching these products to the wall. The easiest option is to mount it on liquid nails. This method is perfect if the walls and ceiling on the loggia have been leveled relatively recently, and there are no large drops and blockages. Such a coating will last as long as the glue itself, so it is better to consult the seller about this before buying.

The next option is a metal balcony crate. It is more suitable for installing panels on the ceiling, since in this case the frame must be more durable than on the walls. Working with such material is quite difficult, but the result is worth it.

Metal lathing is most often used for ceiling sheathing

To sheathe a balcony or loggia with plastic panels, a frame made of PVC strips is also used. This option is practically not used by home craftsmen, since it requires skill and accuracy. The installation of the frame is slightly facilitated by the presence of special fixing clips.

But the most popular is the wooden crate. It is the most simple and relatively inexpensive. To carry out this operation, you will need wooden slats 50x20 mm and ordinary dowel screws. Provided there is waterproofing on the loggia, the tree will not deform.

The cladding of the balcony walls with plastic panels is usually made on a wooden crate

Installation on the lathing

This installation option is perfect when the walls are heavily heaped to the side or have a large number of irregularities and other defects. In addition, the presence of cavities under the crate will additionally insulate and soundproof the balcony. Also, if it is planned to install heating radiators or carry out any engineering communications, they can be hidden in the voids under the panels.

Installing the lathing on the balcony allows you to additionally insulate the room

Fasteners for installing products on the lathing

To sheathe balconies with PVC panels, you can use the following fasteners:

1. Self-tapping screws. Depending on the type of frame chosen, self-tapping screws for wood or metal will be required. This type of fixation is distinguished by its reliability and rigidity, despite the fact that the hardware is quite inexpensive. Self-tapping screws 15-20 mm long are suitable for finishing the PVC balcony.
2. Staples. Products are installed in a construction stapler, with the help of which fixation takes place. The advantage of this method is its high speed. But the reliability of such a connection is low. In addition, if it becomes necessary to replace one of the panels, it will be difficult to remove the clips.
3. Kleimers. They are installed in a narrow part of the panel, after which they are fixed with small nails or screws. This option is considered not the most reliable, since kleimers are made of thin metal. This leads to the fact that when even a slight pressure is applied to the panel, the part may be straightened, due to which the PVC product will simply fall off.

Ceiling sheathing

The interior decoration of the balcony starts from the ceiling. To do this, you must first make a crate:

• The first step is to mark the ceiling surface. To do this, determine the center of the ceiling and draw a longitudinal line using a building level. Then markings are carried out along the perimeter of the ceiling, retreating along the wall by 5 cm. The evenness of all lines is checked with a building level.
• After that, along the perimeter of the surface, you need to attach a galvanized profile and drill holes in the wall up to 5 cm deep in increments of 25-30 cm.
• Take the dowel screws and sequentially fix all the profiles under the ceiling so that a metal border is obtained. This must be done using a screwdriver equipped with a magnetic attachment.
• Then you need to install a longitudinal profile under the plastic panels. If the balcony is small, then one product is enough, if its width is more than 1.2 m, then two are required. The fixing takes place in the same way as in the case of the side profiles.
• Further, starting profiles are attached to the longitudinal strip, on which the panels will be installed on the balcony.
• If you plan to install lamps, then it is necessary to stretch the wiring at this stage.

Installation of lathing on the ceiling under plastic panels

Now the direct finishing of the balcony with panels begins:

1. The first plastic strip is mounted in the starting profile and fixed on the longitudinal rail with self-tapping screws for metal.
2. The following panels are installed in the groove of the previous ones, and the free edge is also fixed with metal fasteners.
3. Now, you may need to trim the material. The spike of the last product is cut to 5 mm, after which the panel is installed in the groove of the previous one.

On a note! Trimming the panels is necessary to adjust the gaps, but if you do not want to do this, then you can purchase special plastic moldings.

This completes the finishing work on the ceiling on the balcony. You can get acquainted in more detail with the process of sheathing with plastic panels by watching the video below.

Wall decoration

The next step in finishing the balconies is wall cladding. For this, it is better to use a wooden crate:

• The first two planks are mounted taking into account the building level at a distance of 10-15 cm from the floor and ceiling.
• Then the vertical guides are installed so that they form a right angle with the horizontal ones.
• A metal profile is attached under the window, which will later become the basis for the window sill.
• On surfaces without openings, only horizontal guides can be dispensed with.
• After that, horizontal and vertical wooden products are installed to the wall using dowel screws with a step of 0.4-0.6 m.
• To decorate the corners, small beams are used, which are connected with self-tapping screws for wood.

Fastening of wooden lathing is carried out using self-tapping screws or dowel screws

Important! If the installation of a heating system is planned on the balcony, then it is important to allocate a niche for this even at the stage of arranging the lathing.

This is followed by the installation of PVC panels in the same way as described above. Then all edges and outer corners are closed with special plastic plugs, and skirting boards are mounted on the floor covering. If a radiator is installed, then it is covered with a grill to provide access for the air flow.

Installation on glue

In this case, marking and no additional fasteners are required. The walls are prepared, after which liquid nails are applied to the back of the panel and pressed against the surface. It is better to remove the remnants of glue that gets on the edges of the panel immediately, since after hardening it will have to be cut off with a knife. The next product is mounted in the same way, but with the spike in the groove of the previous one. This is how the entire area is processed, and the corners and edges are closed with plugs.

Some subtleties of finishing

Above is the standard technology for surface finishing on a balcony. But there are also some tricks that will make the coating last longer and have a presentable appearance:

1. The joints and walls must be decorated with a plastic start to mask the transition.
2. On the floor, the joint will be hidden by a plinth, but it is better to close the corners with a special profile.
3. Instead of a profile, you can use a plug of your own production. To do this, it is necessary to remove a strip of plastic 0.5-1 cm wide from the remaining panel, after which it should be heated with a construction hairdryer and bent by placing a block. The result is a corner.

After all of the above, the dilemma of how to make repairs on the balcony with your own hands should not arise. The main thing is to follow the given recommendations and choose materials carefully. Going for a purchase, it will not be superfluous to take with you a person who has competence in this matter, so as not to purchase low-quality products.

After the glazing of the balcony, it is the turn of its interior decoration. First of all, choose the type of material that suits you.

Now there is a huge variety of materials on the market, which makes the choice somewhat difficult. If you are on a budget, there are fewer options.

Most often, PVC panels are chosen. In this article we will talk specifically about them, or rather about their features, advantages and disadvantages, as well as which panels are suitable for the balcony.

Classification of plastic panels

Plastic panels are volumetric PVC strips with longitudinal stiffeners inside. You can choose seamless PVC panels, which, when assembled, form solid canvases, or seam panels, which, when assembled, have a gap on the canvas, visually stretching the room.

There are several classifications of PVC panels:

1) By size: panels come in standard sizes - 2.5-6 m and 0.44-2.44 m.For balconies, PVC panels with a width of 0.25-0.4 m are used.

They also use plastic lining. It is narrower (0.1-0.2 m). Also suitable for ceilings.

2) By the type of coating: the top layer of the panels can be coated with thermal printing (the drawing is applied using a special thermal film, and then varnished to give shine), offset printing (the drawing is applied in a typographic form and also varnished, the image can be varied, but more often use an imitation of natural stone) and, finally, the third option is a laminated film glued to plastic (the pattern can also be different).

This material is easy to care for, it has a low price, so it is often used.

3) According to the production method, there are two types of PVC panels:

• pressing and stamping panels - made of standard plastic by pressing it;
• sandwich panels - consist of two layers of PVC, between which there is a layer of insulation (mineral wool or expanded polystyrene). These panels do not require thermal, hydro and vapor barrier. But they are small in size, which is a little inconvenient during installation.

Pros and cons of PVC panels on the balcony

Nowadays, plastic is used everywhere. Correct decoration of balconies was no exception. PVC panels have a lot of advantages:

• environmentally friendly material that does not emit toxic fumes;
• resistant to moisture;
• easy installation on any surface without prior leveling;
• small weight, which is important for a balcony;
• low cost;
• a huge selection of colors and patterns.

The material also has several small drawbacks:

• when heated, an unpleasant odor emanates from it;
• may lose shape during sudden temperature changes, so it is better to pre-insulate the balcony;
• are easily damaged by mechanical stress, so choose not cheap thin panels, but panels with a thickness of at least 0.8 cm.

Types of mounting profiles

For the installation of PVC panels, special mounting profiles are required.

Straight profiles are fixed to the lathing from the side of the cross member or from the side of the wide side part.

Corner dihedral profiles must be installed on the outer and inner corners.

Finishing process in stages

Self-assembly of PVC panels is not as difficult as you might think. In this article, we will consider finishing the balcony with plastic panels in photo reports.

In fact, even if you have no experience in this area, you will still succeed. The main thing is to follow the rules, which we will talk about.

In addition, prepare the necessary equipment:

Magnetic screwdriver,

Drill or hammer drill,

Polyurethane foam,

Plastic corners,

Skirting boards,

Window profiles,

Thermal insulation (expanded polystyrene or mineral wool),

Suspensions,

Galvanized metal profiles,

Dowels or small screws.

First stage. Installation of the lathing.

This stage should be started after the installation of steam, hydro and thermal insulation.

Keep in mind that the entire sheathing will be attached to the crate, so install it as tightly as possible.

Begin the installation by deciding on the location of the lathing frame. Next, attach the U-shaped profile to the walls with a distance of 0.5-0.7 m between the slats using dowels or self-tapping screws.

Second phase. Installation of PVC panels on the ceiling.

Start finishing the balcony from the ceiling. Install the metal frame, and then proceed as follows:

1) Fasten galvanized metal starter profiles around the perimeter of the ceiling.

2) Using a puncher, make holes in the profile and in the wall, insert the dowels into them and screw the profile with a screwdriver.

3) Fix the galvanized profile in the center of the ceiling using iron hangers. If your balcony is approximately 120 cm wide, then fix one center profile. If the width is greater, then two.

4) Attach starter profiles for plastic panels to the center profile.

5) Route the cables to the locations of the lighting fixtures.

6) Insert the first panel into the starting profiles and screw it with self-tapping screws to the guide, as well as along the edges.

7) Insert the following panels in the same way butt to the previous ones, screwing them to the metal profile.

8) Cut the last panel to the required size so that it goes over the previous one by 0.5 cm (and not 0.7 cm like the others), and then reinstall it.

Stage three. Installation of panels on walls.

This is the final stage in finishing the balcony with PVC panels. You should start with the space under the window. This process is similar to working with a ceiling.

First, attach the metal profile to the bottom of the window sill. Guided by the side profiles using the building level. Next, fix the profile to the floor.

Then install metal hangers in the center of the wall under the window at a distance of about 0.5 m from each other.

Fill the space between the wall and the metal profile with thermal insulation, and the cracks with polyurethane foam. Attach the guide metal profile to the hangers.

As you can see, this is easy enough. PVC panels are not only cheap, but also quite pleasant-looking material. Thanks to him, you can easily and at minimal cost put your balcony in order.

Video: The process of finishing with plastic panels of the loggia