Do-it-yourself double wooden floor in the bath. Repair of the floor in the bath: replacement, installation, useful tips

The installation of floors in the bath is a very important process and has its own fundamental features. Failure to comply with which will lead to the construction of a cold floor and its rapid decay. An improperly made floor and the drain of used water under it can cause unpleasant odors in the bath.

Everyone wants to spend time comfortably and profitably in a bathhouse in which the floor is properly and evenly arranged, where you don’t have to step barefoot in dirty puddles or jump from grate to grate.

It is impossible to imagine a bath without water procedures. And where there is water, the issue of its withdrawal or discharge must be resolved. Thanks to this, the floor will prolong its operation for a long time.

For the manufacture of floors in the bath, wood and concrete are used everywhere. And how to make it yourself using simple materials, we will consider in different versions.

And in the dressing room (rest room or locker room), and in the washing and steam rooms, the floors should be warm. Gradually, step by step, we will consider the construction of floors in the best options in these rooms and in this article.

Step-by-step guide for installing the floor in the bath

Before proceeding with the installation of floors in the bath, you need to decide which floor to choose and how to mount it: suspended directly along the logs or laid on the ground with insulation. And the soil inside my bath is what: sandy and dry or clayey and often wet. And where the water will merge, I need to help the water find a way out of the bath or it will stagnate and gradually dry out on its own. Here we need an objective approach and the same answer.

In general, it is customary to subdivide the floors in the bath: into:

• Leaking wooden
• non-leaking wooden
• Concrete with insulation and covered with tiles on top

All other floors are varieties and modifications of the above. Consider the device of these floors separately, as well as in a combined version, it all depends on their purpose and operating conditions.

The device of the floor in the rest room is not leaking wooden.

Very often, a rest room in a bath combines the concept of a dressing room and a dressing room. In this room, its operation is always dry inside, as in a residential building. To lay the log, it is necessary to lay columns 400 x 400 mm from reinforced concrete and brick. The upper plane of the support posts should be flush with the upper plane of the strip foundation. Align if necessary.

Consider a non-leaking wood floor as hanging option. In the picture we see a backing beam, it is also called a beam and logs are mounted on it. You can start installation without beams, right along the logs.

Lay logs 150 x 150 mm impregnated with an antiseptic agent on the waterproofing of the supporting posts and the edge of the foundation. Nail cranial bars 50 x 50 mm to the lower edges of the lag and lay a rough flooring of edged boards, 25-30 mm thick, on them. Coat the boards of the rough flooring with an antiseptic. Let dry.

Lay parchment or unrefined paper on the draft flooring with a whip of 200 mm, if the insulation is mineral wool or roofing material, if expanded clay of different fractions in size is poured as a heater.

Then, on top of the logs, a clean floor is laid from floorboards with a quarter. Boards are rallied according to standard rules. Usually, floorboards are made from softwood, as it is cheaper than larch.

Along the perimeter of the room, the boards should not reach the walls by 2 cm. There should be a distance of 15 cm between the insulation and the top board for ventilation and there should be air vents in the foundation walls.

How to make a floor in the washing department and steam room?

About the arrangement of floors in these two departments, the most important ones, for the sake of which the bath is being built, it is necessary to speak and show a lot and in more detail. The floors in these rooms can be: wood leaking and non-leaking or concrete with insulation and covered with tiles on top.

At present, thought does not stand still, and with its development, new proposals appear. The author of the idea proposed below combined the washing rooms and the steam room with one common volumetric underground. Leaking wooden floors have been installed in both rooms. Consider their device.

1. Leaking floors in the bath:

There has always been a leaking or pouring floor in Russian baths. That's just where the water goes under the floor - this important question is solved now in different ways, depending on constructive solutions and a smart approach. Let's say right away - in the steam room and in the sink, a leaking wooden floor with slots of 5 - 6 mm is being built. In the underground between these two rooms there should not be a strip foundation, but a columnar one is allowed.

When the boiler is kindled, the movement of cold and warm air through the underground. Air moves through open door and through a special window in the interior wall. The premises of the bath warm up well, the floor becomes warm and you can bathe and wash, which means pouring water. We watch a video about the movement of drains outside the bath.

There are different schemes for the release of effluents from the bath, and then they will be considered for comparison and selection.

The basis for a leaky wooden floor is a ground expanded clay concrete screed and it goes like this:

• On the base of the soil of the steam room and washing departments, a layer of sand is poured, leveled and compacted first, then a layer of crushed stone. Total thickness 250 mm;
• This layer is covered with thick plastic wrap in 3 layers with a rise along the perimeter to the walls. The edges of each layer are glued with frost-resistant tape. This layer serves as a waterproofing layer.
• Lay a metal mesh with cells of 80 - 100 mm.
• Guides are mounted with a slope towards the drain drain. Lighthouses are fixed by slides. A slope equal to 3 cm per 1 m of guides is observed.
• Expanded clay concrete is laid between the guides and leveled by the rule in compliance with the slope.
• Make a grout of cement mortar and smooth out all the bumps well.

Expanded clay was chosen as a heater. It has a number of positive qualities - it is an environmentally friendly material obtained by accelerated firing of fusible clays. It has high performance and can reduce heat loss by 50 - 75%. Expanded clay gravel is inexpensive compared to other popular heaters.

It is weatherproof, fireproof, odorless, does not emit harmful components in case of fire. Concrete prepared using expanded clay is much lighter than crushed stone. Fractions are used different from 5 to 30 mm.

For reliable setting, cement grade M400-M500 is used. Experts advise adding a plasticizer. Proportional composition for the preparation of the mixture: 2 parts of expanded clay, 1 part of water, 1 part of cement, 3 parts of sand.

It is not difficult to mix the composition yourself. It is necessary to prepare a construction mixer and a large metal container. And you can cook and concrete mixer.

From practice, it is advised to soak expanded clay in water so that it does not float. In the process of mixing, expanded clay concrete acquires a characteristic grey colour. It is necessary to pour in place immediately after kneading. The solution is poured between the beacons from the corner of the room to the funnel. Complete drying of expanded clay concrete occurs in a month. You can find out the readiness by placing a glass jar upside down, it should not fog up.

This is how a leaky wooden floor is made with a base of expanded clay concrete. At the location of the drain, make a shield or cover to access the funnel and clean it of debris and broom leaves.

2. Concrete floor with insulation and tiling.

In this option, between the washing room and the steam room there is strip foundation. Therefore, each room should have its own drain with a ladder.

Both for the washing room and for the steam room, such a floor is made and it is well maintained. It is made in exactly the same way as the base of expanded clay concrete, only to increase the thermal performance, dry expanded clay is additionally poured onto the metal mesh and the thickness of the expanded clay concrete layer is increased.

Then, in the usual way, ceramic tiles are laid with grouting and with a slope towards the drain. Additionally, they make a border of tiles on the walls around the perimeter.

Wooden shields are placed on top of the tiles on the floor, strong and securely made. Still, the tile floor slips.

Any floor ends with a drain and it is best if it is thought out before the foundation is erected in order to lay knocked together boxes from boards or metal pipes as a case in the foundation body. And, objectively speaking about where you will have a drain well, outside the foundation, with the location of the drain inside, dig trenches and lay PVC sewer pipes with a slope. Make a slope of at least 3 cm per 1 m of pipe.

Put special frost-resistant sewer pipes with a diameter of 110 mm, because the pipes are durable, and you want more comfortable conditions over the years - that means a reserve. Maybe in the future you will make a toilet and dish sink in the break room or install a shower cabin with an electric water heater and pipe cold water for the summer period.

Sewer pipes in the trench must be insulated with ready-made Energoflex polyethylene foam. It is sold in various lengths and different diameter with a cut along the pipe, so it is simply put on it and the seam is sealed. Trenches with pipes can be covered with sand, expanded clay, then earth.

With the arrangement of drains with ladders, the washing room is connected by a PVC pipe to the steam room and then the drains go beyond the walls of the bath in drainage well. There is good video on this topic.

You should also consider such a life situation when, when arranging the drain, you did as described above in the article, but for unknown reasons, the smell from the external well penetrates into the bathhouse and you feel it. No need to get upset, because there is a constructive way to avoid this. This will help a special device in the gangway. Look carefully at the pictures with the ladder.

It is not at all difficult to understand the device of this ladder, which is installed in the drain hole. In the second color picture, you can see how air bubbles from the external well with a smell try to get inside the bath, but the water seal prevents them. A red cap is put on top of the outlet and it seems to float in the drain water.

If water enters the drain from time to time and there is a possibility of the water seal drying up and, accordingly, the appearance unpleasant odors from the sewer, to eliminate this problem, ladders with a “dry” siphon “Primus” are used. He is in front of you in the picture.

If there is water in it, the siphon works like a regular siphon, and when the water seal evaporates, the drain hole is blocked by the movable upper part of the siphon (cap).

Usually, drains with a vertical outlet and a non-freezing siphon of the brand HL310N.2 are installed in the baths.

3. Non-leaking wood floors

Non-leaking wooden floors in the washing room and in the steam room can be done by the owner of the bath himself, but more difficult than the previous options. Here it is the principle of arranging this floor.

The picture shows two types of a non-drip floor device: with a drain in the center of the room and with a drain closer to the other opposite wall.

The slope of the floor is created by arranging a cut in the body of the log. A non-leaking floor is made of two layers of flooring: rough and finishing. The boards must be of coniferous species, and the final floor is made of higher quality boards, without knots and gaps.

The direction of the boards is towards the drain. The drain itself is mounted in different ways, more often from a galvanized sheet. And then, whoever knows how: you can go into a pit, and then into a pipe and a well, or you can make a ladder with a “dry” siphon and also connect it through a pipe to a well on the street. Access to the ladder must be for cleaning and repair.

The picture on the left shows the presence of all layers of a non-drip floor. This floor is considered hinged, wooden and warm. It is also made, but more often specialists are invited to install it.

If you yourself dare to do the installation of such a floor - consult a specialist, it will not be superfluous, but will only give self-confidence.

Water through the drain gutter can be diverted to a pit, which is made of reinforced concrete. From the pit, the sewage flows through the sewer pipe into an external well.

After bath procedures, the floors in the bath should dry out in order to prolong their operational capabilities for a long time. To do this, someone then heats the bath. But here is the device ventilation duct at the wall of the bath with access to the attic, will not interfere with the floor and will give the opportunity to "breathe".

Between the upper finishing floor and the upper waterproofing, which lies on the insulation, there must be an air gap of up to 150 mm.

The galvanized sheet is simply stuck into the body of the log and fixed with an overlap on the floor.

And so around the perimeter of the bathhouse.

The ventilation duct is made of boards tightly or from an ordinary galvanized thick sheet.

I hope the article was useful for you. Build yourself and strive to improve your living conditions. Good luck!

The erection of a wooden floor in a bath should begin with the installation of floor logs, which should be pine or made of larch. Boards of the same type of wood are attached to these logs. When laying the floor, it should be done with a certain slope, for easy drainage of the liquid. However, if you arrange a leaky floor, this condition is not necessary. Laying lags should be carried out according to the minimum distance from the selected wall to another, but if the walls in the bath are equilateral, this condition can also be ignored.

Having determined the path of the flowing liquid, we mount the lags across the given vector. To achieve the required rigidity, support chairs are mounted in the central region of each of them, which can easily be made of brick or a pliable material such as wood. Under them, a support platform reinforced with a chain-link mesh is made of durable concrete mix, at least a quarter of a meter wide.

We dig forty centimeter holes under the platform base, followed by tamping the edges and the bottom. At the bottom of such pits, a ten-centimeter sand layer is poured and compacted with pouring water. Above this layer, a fifteen-centimeter gravel layer is laid and also compacted. Instead of ordinary rubble, you can take a broken brick.

The formwork, which looks out more than 5 cm above the ground surface, is realized from edged boards. The edges should be isolated from water with roofing felt or use roofing material. After the installation of the formwork is completed, the debut concrete layer is laid there, which has an approximate thickness of about 15 cm. It is rammed and covered with a chain-link mesh, and then exactly the same second layer is laid on top. Before installing a wooden or brick support on the site under construction, a waterproofing layer is made from bitumen brought to the melting point, covered with roofing material. The degree of elevation of the supports should be selected taking into account the degree of elevation of the supports for the ends of the floor joists.

The base of the tape type requires the same height of the support and the top of the foundation being built.

But the columnar type of the base under construction, which is now being considered, requires the same height of the supporting top and the elevated part of the mortgage-type beam, since we will rest the end parts of the log on the bars of the mortgage crown. After completing the work with the supports, we proceed to the preparation of the soil, which is underground.

Leaking floors in a bath room with sandy soil need crushed stone backfill, the thickness of which can be a quarter of a meter. This material will play the role of a filter here, providing an optimal level of humidity in the underground under consideration. The soil that does not absorb water very well needs to be equipped with a tray where water that goes beyond the bath will accumulate.

To implement this technology, it is desirable to equip under the floor of the leaking type, clay castle, with a slope to the drainage tray. The castle can also be made of concrete mix, but it will be more expensive. To make such a castle, you need to tamp a ten-centimeter layer of crushed stone poured onto the soil surface and pour a fifteen-centimeter layer of such a pliable material as clay on top of it. It must be flat and have a two-sided slope in relation to the equipped pit relative to the horizon line.

If you equip a floor of a non-leaking type, you should insulate the surface of the bath underground with such a multifunctional and inexpensive material as expanded clay. At the same time, there should be about 15 cm between it and the lags for optimal air circulation. The flushing compartment near the wall here will serve as a place for the equipment of the pit, from where a pipe leading out of the water will lead to the outside. Its diameter must exceed 150 mm so as not to slow down the process of emptying the gutter.

Installation of lags

The laying of logs for a non-leaking type floor should be carried out from the walls to the drainage tray, while the front logs should be mounted higher in level than the rest, and not cut into them. In the next lags, inclined cuts are made at an angle of approximately 10 degrees, while their depth depends on the number of lags used - the fewer, the deeper the cuts.

The sawing of the bars here is carried out taking into account the dimensions of the space of the bath room, so that about 4 cm remains on both sides of the interlags and wall surfaces for successful air circulation.

Installation of lags is carried out on a mortgage beam and pillars related to the support type. In the process, waterproofing materials, such as roofing felt and glassine, are certainly used. All mounted logs are treated with an antiseptic solution.

You can check the correct installation building level. To bring the logs to a more horizontal position, it is necessary to carry out the hemming of places on them, based on a mortgage beam or the support used.

You can also check the evenness of the laying with a level. This can be done by placing the level on a board lying on the logs with a leveled surface. You can trim the logs either with the help of linings or undercuts.

Near the equipped base, the logs must certainly lie along the perimeter at a distance that is about 15 cm from the edges. The furnace foundation is brought to the level of the flooring only after the laying work is completed.

Photo - furnace foundation

To do this, you will need to lay out the base under the stove on a pre-arranged site. Here you can use refractory bricks or concrete.

Leaking floor installation

Here are used unedged boards, pre-planed and leveled at the ends.

The boards are cut according to the dimensions of the bath room, taking into account that there is a two-centimeter gap between the surface of the walls and the floor. Flooring can be started from any wall surface, as long as it is parallel to the course of the boards.

The cut boards are laid with an indent of 2 cm from the wall surface and nailed. In this case, if the thickness of the board is represented by a value of 40 mm., The length of the fastener used must exceed 80 mm.

Fasteners should be used along the edges of the boards, at a distance of about 1.5 cm from their edges. It is best to drive the nails inward at an angle of 40 degrees from the center section of the board. At least a couple of nails should be used to fasten one board.

The gap between the boards to be nailed must exceed 3 mm. To comply with this condition, a piece of a regular fiberboard sheet inserted between them will help.

Installation of non-leaking floor

Here, tongue-and-groove boards are optimally suited, which, as a rule, are laid with a groove inside the bath room.

Before starting work, the so-called black floor covering is mounted. To implement this, special bars are attached to the frontal parts of the lag, having a cross section represented by a value of 50x50 mm. On them between the lags are boards belonging to the second or third grade.

On top of the finished "black" floor covering is lined with a layer of materials that provide protection from moisture, such as glassine or a common and inexpensive roofing felt.

Expanded clay, poured into the space between the lags, can serve as a heater here. After the backfill is completed, a waterproofing layer is also laid.

Having finished with the device of the “black” floor covering, we start work on laying the final floor. Here, grooved boards are taken. So that they can be removed from their places for subsequent drying, the boards used in the work can not even be fastened with such fasteners as nails, using instead bars with a section of 20x30 mm., Mounted to the logs with special screws - “capercaillie”. Thus, you can easily make the floor in the bath with your own hands.

You can make the floor in the bath with your own hands, if you do everything carefully and correctly.

The long service life of your floor is fundamentally dependent on the quality of preparation of the base of your bath, the choice of insulating components and the final coating.

We will provide you and together we will consider the installation of the bath floors, as well as the distinctive features of the installation and various technical errors that should be taken into account and avoided.

Features of the structure of the floors in the bath

If you are building a bathhouse and plan to use it for all twelve months or more, then in this case we advise you to make a capital foundation with pouring a concrete screed.

There is an answer to the question of how to create a wear-resistant and strong floor in the bath - the construction of the bath itself as a whole is carried out taking into account a large number of different nuances. Premises with a rather specific microclimate can provide truly extraordinary operating conditions for flooring.

Increased humidity, as well as changes in the temperature threshold and the contact of the subfloor with water, can significantly reduce the life of your floor.

The choice of a particular method of arranging the foundation in a very humid room mainly depends on the following factors:

Type of wooden floors

The device of the base with the help of wooden flooring will be optimal for seasonal buildings. The tree itself has a small amount of thermal conductivity, which is why it helps to retain heat in a very humid room.

But a very high moisture threshold has the ability to provoke the process of rotting of wooden components. In order to avoid this, experts advise using floor logs, and, accordingly, flooring, which is made of coniferous wood. They are less hygroscopic because they have natural resins in the wood structure.

In general, absolutely all types of wooden coatings can be divided into 2 main categories: leaking and non-leaking.

Leaking

The first category is leaky. The boards are laid at a certain interval, which is why water is removed from the entire room as quickly as possible due to the various cracks formed in the coating, the dimensions of which range from three to seven millimeters.

The device of this base is very beneficial for the following reasons:

• Low price of floors;
• There is no need to install a drain system;
• Easy installation.

Non-leaking

The second category is non-leaking. So let's say, a monolithic coating, which is assembled from boards. You can use this category in buildings that are used all year round.

But in this embodiment, a water collector should be installed in the base, with the help of which the waste water would disappear into the sewer pipes.

The non-leaking coating device itself has the following advantages:

• Excellent thermal conductivity of the room;
• Possibility of collecting underfloor heating;
• Highly long period use.

Preparation of inventory and tools

The construction of a bath is considered a very responsible, accurate, time-consuming process, but one of the most important points is the improvement of the floors. From quality indicators installation work, which are associated with the sewer system, as well as the laying of floor components, as a whole, the microclimate of the entire room depends.

In order to bring to life all the stages of floor construction neatly and correctly, first of all, you need to have at hand the tools you need for the job.

The device of a concrete base is possible only if you have the following tools:

For installation wood flooring you will need the following tools:

• Electric jigsaw - angle grinder;
• Roulette;
• Nails;
• Plane;
• A hammer.

In order to understand how to properly install the floors in the bath, we will provide you with step-by-step instructions for laying concrete and wooden floors.

Floor installation

Conventional floor construction

The base must be above zero level by eight to nine centimeters, in particular, it concerns the base, which is settled in the steam room. In this case, the temperature threshold in the room will remain at the same level for a very long time. At the same time, in the washing room, the base should be made a little lower than in the rest of the bath, which will make it possible to avoid water leakage, sweat, the floor into the shower room and dressing room, and so on.

Layers

The usual device of the floor in the bath is considered a very labor-intensive process:

Features of the preparation of the base

The usual construction of a warm floor in a bath begins with simple preparatory work. This requires the following: ensure a long service life of the final coating; To do this, in the process of preparing the foundation, the following work should be done:

1. First of all, a mineral pillow in the form of expanded clay granules or broken bricks should be laid in place of the floors. The usual thickness of such a drainage layer must be no less than fifteen centimeters;
2. After that, crushed stone or gravel should be poured on top, from ten to fifteen centimeters a layer;
3. Then the laid materials should be tamped.
4. The imposition of the so-called mineral cushion makes it possible to disrupt the capillarity, due to which the ground moisture increases and reaches the base, as a result of which it destroys and destroys it.

Preparation of the working mixture

In order to create a high-quality solution for pouring the screed, it is necessary to strictly observe the ratios, as well as the order of attaching the necessary elements.

In order to improve the thermal insulation qualities of this mixture, you can add to its composition sorbitol. The manufacturing process itself takes place in two stages.

The first step is to pour ten liters of clean water into a concrete mixer, then pour about two buckets of expanded sand and mix everything. Then you need to add cement (about five liters), the main point is that the cement must be grade M-300 and not lower.

After adding cement, mix again, then add about five liters of the same clean water, and all that remains is to mix all the components until a homogeneous mixture.

If necessary, you can improve the mixture, namely, increase its technical parameters by adding perlite. In order to do this, you must go through the following: ten kilograms of perlite and two to two and a half liters of water should be added to the already prepared solution. All this is very thoroughly mixed until the entire solution becomes free-flowing. After ten minutes, mix everything very well again.

At the very end, you will observe a loose composition, in its consistency it is a bit like a simple plasticine. After this stage, a screed is produced.

Filling the first layer

If the area of ​​​​the rough coating is very small, the screed should be carried out over the entire area. To fill the screed over a huge area, the room is divided into strips (conditionally), while everything needs to be processed in turn.

So, in order to lay your first layer of the mixture as accurately and correctly as possible, you need the following:

Hydro and thermal insulation of concrete floors

At the moment of hardening of the screed, it is necessary to proceed to the stage of hydro- and thermal insulation of the coating.

Before all insulating materials are laid, the concrete itself (surface) is checked for dents, bulges, cracks. If necessary, defects should be repaired.

As a simple waterproofing materials, as a rule, you can choose:

• polyethylene film;
• Rolled roofing material;
• Bituminous mastic.

After you have already equipped the waterproofing, you need to make the floor insulation.

For these purposes, you can apply:

• Polystyrene;
• Granular expanded clay;
• foam concrete;
• Penoplex;
• Mineral wool.

The thickness of the heat-insulating layer must be from ten to fifteen centimeters. As practice shows, the most the best insulation for concrete surfaces, expanded clay is considered. It does not absorb moisture, weighs very little and has sound insulation.

Filling the final screed

Laying the final layer of the screed technologically differs very little from previous version, however, in this case, the thickness of the screed can vary from eight to ten centimeters. With all this, it must be taken into account that in the process of pouring the mixture, it is necessary to monitor the observance of the slope towards the water collector.

However, the very arrangement of floors in small and large rooms quite different. For example, if the base area is very large, to give the structure high strength, it is worth laying a simple reinforcing mesh before pouring the screed. In this case, even with frequent use of the bath, the rough coating will not crack.

feature of wood floor

Wooden flooring is considered the standard type of coating that was used to equip the floors in the bath.

Despite its hygroscopicity, this species The material is still in great demand among consumers, due to the following features:

We make a wooden floor in the bath

How to carefully and most importantly, correctly lay a wooden floor? To do this, you need to mount a wooden base, which is actually very easy, but you must take into account a certain number of technical nuances.

Absolutely the entire process of arranging floors is divided into the following stages:

To build a bath, and even with a wear-resistant floor, is a very difficult task, unless, of course, the specific microclimate in the room is taken into account.

To increase the period of use of the floor covering, the following points must be considered during the installation process:

You can improve the water-repellent properties of the screed with the help of dedusting agents with the same features.

Conclusion

Installing the floor in the bath is a very long and laborious process, it will wait for a careful approach from you.

In the process of implementation of installation work, it is necessary to take into account a large number of factors:

• foundation type;
• base area;
• type of floor materials;
• microclimate;
• and so on.

Only in this situation and in compliance with almost all technological rules, the floor mounted in the bath will be able to serve you for an incredibly long period of time.

The floor in the bath performs a number of functions that distinguish it from the coating in living rooms. It not only ensures free movement while constantly moistening, but is also part of sewer system. Therefore, before installing such a floor, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the features of its installation.

Peculiarities

Before choosing a floor for a bath, you need to consider some of the nuances. The first thing to consider is the season in which the premises will be used. If the bath is to be used all year round, then showers, a dressing room, an additional steam room and rest rooms are usually placed in it. In such a bath, a capital floor is installed: an insulated coating with ventilation and drainage. It is enough to make the floor in the summer sauna leaky.

Installation of a leaking floor is carried out by laying boards measuring 1.5 meters by 50 millimeters. The boards are laid on top of the logs - bars with a diameter of about 150 mm. When installing a log, it is necessary to take into account the type of base. For example, for a columnar foundation, logs must be supported on a mortgage beam. The logs are laid sequentially, starting from the shortest wall, the bars are placed at a distance of about 60 cm. The points of contact between the log and the foundation are treated with bituminous mastic or roofing material to ensure insulation.

Next, the subfloor is installed - a layer of soil is laid on top of the boards. The material and its quantity are selected based on the type of base soil. If the soil absorbs water well, then the subfloor is covered with a layer of rubble about 25 centimeters thick. Clay soils, which swell when wet and poorly conductive to moisture, must be covered with a material that provides water runoff. After laying the floor boards, leaving a distance of 2 cm around the entire perimeter.

There should also be a small gap between the floorboards. The boards are fixed to the beams with nails. To provide protection against dampness and prevent the development of fungus, the coating is treated with drying oil.

A leaking floor is also called "cold" because its temperature is always low. The disadvantages of such a coating are that it is recommended to install it only in regions with a mild warm climate. Premises with such a floor are almost impossible to use in the cold season, because it cannot be insulated. However, there is an option to install the stove below the floor level. This design allows you to warm up the boards and better protect them from decay.

The process of creating a non-leaking floor is technologically more complex and resource-intensive. Before laying the log, it is necessary to install a subfloor. Next, the wooden flooring is covered with layers of waterproofing coating. To reduce heat leakage from the premises, the floor must be protected with insulation boards made of mineral wool or fiberglass. So that natural heaters do not lose their properties under the influence of water, a moisture-resistant coating is laid on top.

The rough floor is poured with a layer of bitumen and prepared for the installation of floorboards. The technology of laying boards depends on the purpose of the room. The floorboards in the steam room should look in the direction of the falling beam of light. In the dressing room, the floor covering is laid in the direction of travel. It is important not to forget to leave a space of at least one centimeter along the contour of the room. This distance provides ventilation.

A Russian bath with a heated floor resembles a pie in terms of the drainage system. The boards are placed at a slight slope, which ensures the flow of liquid into the built-in collector. Further, moisture flows through the pipes and is removed outside the extension. The advantages of a warm floor are that the coating is additionally protected from the cold, the moisture removal system allows you to increase the shelf life of the boards.

What coverage to choose?

Inside the classic Russian bath high humidity and the temperature can reach 65 degrees. Under such conditions, the probability of floor rotting, especially wood flooring, is high. It is important to understand that each bath room different conditions operation and coating material and operation technology can vary significantly in each room. In addition to individual characteristics, the floor must have some general physical and mechanical characteristics.

The coating must be resistant to critical temperature differences: from above, the floor interacts with hot water, and from below, cold soil acts on it. Also, the flooring must withstand both mechanical stress and contact with chemical reagents of detergents. A mandatory characteristic of the coating is resistance to constant interaction with moisture and saturated water vapor. It is important to remember that the floorboards must be anti-slip and low maintenance. In addition to the above mechanical properties, the floor in the bath should look aesthetically pleasing.

The classic flooring is wooden flooring. This method of laying the floor in the bath is still used today. This is not only a tribute to tradition - wood has a high heat capacity and a beautiful appearance. A significant drawback of the boards is low moisture resistance: the coating is subject to decay and requires additional protection. Before deciding on the installation of a wooden floor, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the characteristics of each tree species. For example, oak becomes too slippery when exposed to moisture.

Concrete flooring is no less popular than the plank counterpart. The cement screed has a high mechanical strength which ensures a long service life. It is important to understand that it is necessary to lay the finish coat on the concrete base. Masters advise using tiled masonry. Ceramics is easy to install and use. A significant disadvantage of the concrete floor is the need for thermal insulation. Also, such a floor must be laid at a slope to ensure the drainage of water.

In the construction of baths, more and more preference is given to laying stone and tiled floors. Ceramics perfectly imitates a natural stone and has a relatively low cost. In addition, this coating is durable and water resistant. Important point- joints between ceramic fragments require additional processing to protect against dampness and prevent the formation of fungus.

For the right choice of flooring, you need to take into account all the operational features of the selected room. In the steam room, you can lay floors made of concrete, stone or ceramics - these materials can withstand extreme conditions. Coatings containing formaldehyde must not be used. Under the influence of water and high temperature, such materials release toxic substances.

If there is a desire to decorate the floor with paint or varnish, then some restrictions must be taken into account. Most safe way decoration of a wooden coating - the use of water-based or dispersion acrylic paint. It is strictly forbidden to use in the steam room oil paint or alkyd composition.

The requirements for the floor in the washing room are not as high as for the surface in the steam room. However, the poured coating must withstand prolonged contact with water and detergents. Floors must also withstand critical temperature fluctuations. Ceramics fully satisfies these requirements. Wood is also actively used in washing, but it must be treated with a special impregnation or varnished.

The floor in the dressing room practically does not come into contact with water and steam, so there is no need to increase its water resistance. There is a firebox in the dressing room, so the floor covering must be protected from fire and overheating. As a rule, boards are laid here. A metal plate measuring 60 by 90 centimeters is mounted in front of the firebox. This device is necessary to protect the floor from falling sparks and fire.

In the rest room, you can lay carpet or linoleum. The floors in this room should be comfortable and cozy. The main requirement for such a coating is that it must retain heat well. Since rest rooms do not come into contact with moisture and cannot withstand temperature changes, they do not require additional protection. They can also be placed on the floor or shelves to place the legs, which will add comfort.

Necessary tools and accessories

In order to obtain a high-quality floor with a long service life, it is necessary to follow the laying technique and the technology of preparing materials. The success of installation largely depends on the correct choice of tools. The floor can be installed under the guidance of a specialist or independently.

Some of the tools needed to install a concrete floor in a bath:

• The correct screed cannot be laid without the use of special rakes. These devices level the concrete mass during the laying process. It is important to understand that the coating should be as even as possible: violations in the technique can lead to serious consequences.

• A laser or water level will help to get the surface of the required evenness. With it, you can also vary the angle of the boards. The grooves for draining water must be even: no level difference is allowed along the flow of the liquid. Such moments must be corrected both at the initial stages of installation and during the laying of the slabs.

• Trowels are needed to spread cement over the entire surface from the far corner of the room to the edges. With the help of trowels, impregnation or varnish is also applied when finishing the surface. Trowels come with both pointed and semicircular edges. The rounded edges of the tool do not leave visible marks on the screed.

• Grater for cement. This device is necessary to obtain a flat surface. It is necessary to make circular movements on the surface of the laid mass. With their help, excess material is also removed and an even coating is obtained.

• Smoothers are also necessary to obtain a flat surface. Due to their design, they are able to cover and smooth a larger area than floats or trowels. Smoothers are used for global work on rolling cement over the entire surface. Among such tools, one can single out corner-type trowels - they are used to obtain a smooth coating at the junction of the floor with the wall.

• In order to qualitatively mix expanded clay or expanded clay concrete, you need a concrete mixer and a container for the solution. The mixing technology depends on its composition and installation method. Before working directly with cement, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the technology and mode of preparation of the mixture. This process can be carried out manually, but there is a risk of obtaining a heterogeneous mass. Incorrectly mixed composition will not provide the desired performance properties of the floor.

• Also, do not forget about simple tools. A shovel will greatly facilitate the process of spreading the concrete mass over the surface. A Velcro towel or any other rag material is needed to clean the tools during work. An even screed will be obtained only when working with cleaned equipment. Also, keep a container of water handy.

A different set of tools is needed to install a wooden floor.

• Metal profile for laying boards. A special grate is mounted from small steel gutters, on which the boards are laid. Such a frame is necessary in order for the sauna floor to be laid evenly and firmly held. Profiles are sold complete with special fasteners.

• An electric screwdriver and a drill are needed to fix the boards. They can be replaced with a metal hammer, but this will require a lot of time and effort. In addition to ordinary screws, brackets are used to fix the planks.

• To obtain bars of the required size, an electric planer and a hacksaw for wood are used. The work of sawing wood is quite dusty, so the craftsmen recommend laying a rug or sheets of newspaper on the floor of the working area. This will significantly reduce the time of subsequent cleaning.

• In any work on laying the floor, you can not do without a level. The laser device is much easier to operate and helps to achieve an even coating or the desired slope.
• The final wood layer often needs to be varnished or painted. To do this, stock up on rollers and brushes. Also, many materials are sticky and toxic, so all work must be done with gloves.

How to do it yourself?

The device of the flowing floor begins with the installation of lags. It can be wooden beams or metal beams. Before installing the logs, they must be treated with a special antiseptic agent that increases their corrosion resistance. The choice of antiseptics is great, but some prefer to use used engine oil as an analogue. If wood beams are chosen for the lag device, then they must be dried. To do this, the wood is left for some time in a room with a humidity of 10 to 12 percent. To save time, you can buy ready-made wood after drying in the chamber.

Lags are stacked from smallest wall parallel. If the room in the bath is large enough, then it is recommended to create a stiffening frame. For this, reinforced concrete piles are installed under the logs with a step of no more than one meter.

For the correct laying of the lag, there is a step-by-step guide:

• must be removed from the installation site. upper layer soil. Next, lay out a layer of sand or gravel with a thickness of 10 to 15 centimeters and reinforce the system with a mesh.
• Lay piles of bricks or fragments reinforced concrete slab. This design will provide the foundation with the necessary bearing capacity.
• The system must be treated with bituminous mastic to protect it from water.

The fixed piles are covered with two layers of waterproofing. Sheets should not be laid too close to the walls. It is necessary to leave a gap of at least 4 cm around the entire perimeter. This will ensure ventilation of the resulting structure.

Next, a water drain system is installed. Moisture must be removed from the foundation. In order to competently equip the drainage system, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the features of the base soil. If the soil absorbs moisture well, then it is necessary to remove a layer of earth from the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe bath and cover the surface with rubble. On soils with low culvert capacity, you need to dig a hole about 40 cm deep and carry out a moisture removal system into it. A special backfill made of clay ensures a uniform flow of water. Floors with this method must be laid at a slope of 10 degrees towards the water intake.

Underfloor heating boards are processed - they are hewn from the front side and leveled. A gap of two centimeters is left between the masonry and the wall for natural ventilation. Boards are laid at a right angle from the location of the lag. This technology provides the necessary strength of the future floor. It is necessary to maintain the same distance between the planks: the craftsmen advise using fragments of plywood for this purpose.

Warm floors can also be laid on logs. Bars or steel pipes are laid by the previously described step-by-step actions. To obtain a surface slope in the logs, cuts of four millimeters are made. It is not allowed to cut logs adjacent to the walls. The underfloor heating system is excellent. Between two supports they dig a hole with a depth of at least 300 millimeters and with dimensions of 400 by 400 millimeters.

The walls of the resulting pit must be reinforced with concrete and smeared with bitumen. Installation of the drain pipe is carried out at the bottom of the pit with an indent of two centimeters. The drainage pipe must be at least 15 centimeters in diameter. For these purposes, PVC is perfect.

Boards are laid, starting with a draft layer. Followed by waterproofing coating, overlapped. Joints are not greased large quantity bituminous mastic or glued with adhesive tape. After fixing the waterproofing, a layer of insulation is laid. In this case, the masters are advised to pay attention to mineral or ecological wool, expanded clay slabs. A more environmentally friendly type of insulation is a mixture of sawdust with PVA.

Between finish coating and insulation, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier. It is also important to leave a gap of at least fifteen millimeters between the layers: exhaust pipe. The planks of the final layer should not have crevices in the joints, so builders prefer a tongue and groove board. It is necessary not to forget about the installation of the drain system.

The laying of a concrete screed is carried out in several stages. The first concrete layer is poured with a height of no more than six centimeters and left not to dry completely. Thermal insulation of standard thickness is laid on a slightly damp layer. To provide the coating with the necessary rigidity, the insulation is covered reinforced mesh. Last layer fills are laid at an angle of 10 to 15 degrees to ensure flow.

Finishing layer, as a rule, the thickness does not exceed nine centimeters. Further, the surface can be decorated with ceramics or plank masonry. It is important not to forget that the coating must be resistant to temperature extremes and have a given strength. After installing the floor, the walls are polished.

Wood

Plank flooring is perfect for a leaky floor in a steam room. Wood has good technical characteristics and requires relatively little labor. Masters advise completely newbies to stop on the device of a cold floor. There is no need to create an insulated "pie" of the foundation and laying engineering communications. A leaky floor in a steam room requires only simple drainage.

The flooring does not need to be fixed to the joists, as the covering must be regularly detached and dried in the open air. This design helps to keep the material in good condition even with frequent interaction of the floor with hot water. The board requires replacement after 4-6 years after commissioning. If, nevertheless, there is a desire to fix the coating on the logs, then the boards must be carefully treated with an antiseptic. A cold floor made of larch or pine is considered the most optimal price-quality ratio. Oak flooring does not have sufficient roughness and can lead to injury.

The non-leaking wood floor is suitable for year-round use. In the washing department and steam room, such a coating will last up to 10 years, if the rough layer is correctly installed and the laying of insulating materials is not neglected. Boards are not recommended to be painted. Chemical composition can clog wood pores, which will give the coating a persistent chemical aroma.

Also, the paint does not help protect the boards from rotting. Masters advise leaving the surface clean, but sand well. Natural wood has a pleasant smell, and the aroma of pine needles is considered beneficial to health. In order to protect the coating from decay, use special formulations. But an important point is the drainage device.

Concrete

Concrete has a long service life, which makes it a leader among the materials for installing the floor in the bath. Properly laid coating can last up to 50 years, does not require special operating conditions. The concrete screed is not prone to decay, because the development of microorganisms is impossible in concrete. Caring for such a floor does not require special measures or the purchase of expensive products.

The screed can be poured and used as a finished floor covering or laid on top of the tile. It is laid on the ground or logs. To strengthen the foundation for a warm floor device, a device is often used. screw piles. On these piles, an insulating “pie” is already installed and a screed is poured. The concrete floor is time and resource intensive because it is a complex multi-layered structure.

Before purchasing, you must familiarize yourself with the composition of the product. Some types contain crushed stone or gravel, so they can cause difficulties in the kneading process. A homogeneous mass will be obtained only with the use of a concrete mixer or a perforator. If there are no such devices, then the masters recommend purchasing a solution on a cement-sand base. This material is much easier to mix and pour.

The consistency and composition of the solution largely depend on the conditions for the further operation of the cement screed. If concrete acts as a subfloor for laying boards, then the mixture does not require special additives. If you want to lay ceramic tiles on the screed, you must add gypsum with an anhydrate admixture to the solution. The concrete floor is not recommended to be used as a rough floor for the installation of a synthetic coating. When interacting with critical temperatures, synthetics release complex chemicals that can be hazardous to health.

Proper waterproofing is essential when installing concrete flooring. The floor is located under a slight slope, and a special pit with a drain is mounted under the base of the foundation. Water moves along the gutter and the ground and is removed outside the bath. Technologically competent installation of this system will protect the foundation from corrosion and allow the cement screed to serve for a long time.

tiled

Ceramics is widely used for laying cold floors. This material is not subject to decomposition under the action of microorganisms and does not require special operating conditions. The tile is resistant to critical temperature changes. The coating is also resistant to moisture, which allows it to be laid everywhere in the bath.

Designers note the wide color palette of this material, so they often use it to create decor in the rest room. The tile is environmentally friendly, does not emit harmful substances and does not have a chemical smell. Ceramics are laid directly on the self-leveling concrete floor.

The screed does not always provide smooth finish and requires side events. Surface roughness must be kept to a minimum, as this work requires time and effort. A tile laid on a screed with irregularities will not last long. Water can get into the voids, which will lead to the appearance of fungus between the joints of the mosaic. The gaps between the fragments must be treated with a special tool both during installation and during operation.

A significant disadvantage of the tile is its high thermal conductivity. In order for the temperature in the steam room not to fall, competent thermal insulation is necessary. Another significant disadvantage is the risk of injury. varnish coating. It is necessary to purchase tiles with a rough surface so that it does not become slippery when in contact with water. Today there are many ceramic tiles imitating a stone covering.

Designers highlight the mosaic, stylized as pebbles. In addition to aesthetics and beauty, this coating has a massage effect. Such tiles will be an excellent solution when decorating a rest room in nautical style. Small stone particles are complemented with cut glass inserts. Sparkling inserts have a beautiful sheen and reflect light in an interesting way.

To increase the service life of the ceramic coating, it is glazed and fired several times. In addition, the masters are advised to give preference to thick tiles. Such material is resistant to temperature fluctuations. You should not buy tiles with a large number of pores - they are less durable. Clinker mosaic or porcelain stoneware cladding should be preferred. Pay close attention to the surface texture: glossy sheen should be avoided.

heated

The heated concrete floor creates a comfortable microclimate. This option is necessary when installing a cold floor, especially in a cool climate zone. Also, the underfloor heating system heats the surface from the inside, drying the material. This system allows you to get rid of dampness and increase the life of the floor covering. It is important to understand that such a heated floor is quite difficult to install for a beginner. The instruction of the master and control of the installation process is required.

Underfloor heating - a system of pipes or cables through which warm liquid moves. Convection provides uniform heating of the floor around the entire perimeter of the room, regardless of the location of the heating device. Pipes experience strong internal pressure, so the surface must be additionally reinforced. The contours themselves are easy to lay, but require reliable attachment to the rough surface. For the device of such heating, pipes without seams and joints should be purchased.

The distance between the contours is called the laying step. It must be maintained during the installation process. Violation of the step leads to uneven heating of the floor. A similar gradient is felt upon contact with the floor. You should also carefully choose the floor covering in the case of underfloor heating. Ceramics tend to heat up quickly, so craftsmen do not recommend using tiles as a finishing layer. Preference should be given to wooden panels.

To date, there are two ways to install a warm floor. water system is carried out by the circulation of the heated liquid from the pump through the pipes. The coolant in this design can be either plain water or special antifreeze compositions. The water system consists of a boiler, a collector and pipes. It is difficult to install, and it is not cheap. However, such a system allows you to reduce heating costs. Water heated floor is often used as additional heating in apartments and houses.

Another way to install a heated floor is electrical system. These "cable" floors are easy to install, but their price is entirely dependent on energy tariffs. The cable converts electricity into heat and heats the surface evenly. To control the heating, temperature sensors are mounted in the floor. It is important to remember that such a system should not be combined with wooden materials, as there is a high probability of wood overheating and a fire.

Installation of each type of heated floor requires the control of the master. The floor is laid on thermal insulation material. Vapor barrier is an equally important layer when installing a warm floor. After laying the contours, the surface is poured with a cement screed.

All pipe joints must be additionally fixed. It is important to remember that after laying the cement layer, it will be impossible to make adjustments. Otherwise, it will be necessary to completely remove the masonry, re-clean the surface and eliminate violations in the installation of the circuits. It is important to lay pipes on a perfectly cleaned surface. After making adjustments, the surface is poured with a new layer of cement mortar.

Before use, the floors are pre-tested and heated in accordance with the instructions. The problems are fixed and the system is checked again. The cycle must be restarted until the required temperature is reached. Only after the final tests, the cement screed is leveled and the installation of the final floor covering is started. It is important to understand that each joint of the material requires careful processing. A water-heated floor will last a long time if all its features are taken into account during the installation process, for example, steam and waterproofing of the floor.

For the manufacture of high-quality coating masters are advised to listen to some recommendations. The causes of floor failure can be varied, but many can be prevented if the laying technology is not violated. The choice of quality material also plays an important role.

When installing the log, it is important to install waterproofing between the pillars. Such a coating will protect the frame from rot and rapid destruction. Otherwise, the foundation will quickly collapse upon contact with water. The columns should also be made of materials with high frost resistance and water resistance. Water can accumulate in the soil, which will lead to corrosion of concrete and subsidence of the structure.

The wooden floor must not be installed without ventilation. Its scheme provides for gaps around the entire perimeter, depending on the type of layer being laid. It is not always possible to correct the violation after laying the finish coat, therefore it is necessary not to violate the technology at each stage of work.

Floor boards should not be less than 35 millimeters in thickness. Such a plank will withstand a critical load and last a long time, unlike an analogue of smaller thickness. All floor boards must be cut to the same dimensions. This will not only simplify installation, but also provide the necessary evenness and slope of the surface. In cold periods, such a coating will retain heat longer.

Wood floors must only be installed using stainless steel fasteners. Metal structures can be further treated to protect against rust. Since the coating is regularly exposed to interaction with water, it is necessary to pay increased attention to the choice of metal structures and fasteners.

The floor level of the washroom is always slightly lower than the level of other rooms. The steam room and the rest room should rise by a few millimeters.

Before you start laying boards, the coating must be processed. The material is impregnated not only with a mixture to protect against moisture, but also with a substance that protects against fire. The latter is especially important when installing a warm electric floor. All components of the floor must be protected from fire. These indicators are prescribed in regulatory documents and must be confirmed by material certificates.

Masters are advised to give preference to a tiled floor. This combination provides reliable protection against natural phenomena and negative impacts of the bathhouse. The coating is easy to install and use and will save on hiring workers.

When arranging a steam room, it is necessary to properly arrange the ventilation system. Otherwise, water vapor will accumulate and destroy the coating of the ceiling and walls. Poorly ventilated areas require constant ventilation after use. Only in this case, the bath room will last a long time. To bring ventilation to the outside in the attic, it is necessary to lay a pipe through which water vapor and smoke will be removed from the room. At monolithic foundation masters advise to make holes from ventilation pipe out.

The floors in the bath are not at all a trifle, as it might seem initially. The way they are installed differs from the technologies used in residential premises, primarily in that bath floors are part of the sewer system. At correct styling in the bath compartments it will be dry, despite the constant humidity in these rooms. And this means the absence of mold, fungus and a long service life of this institution, which is cult for all Russians. There are different methods of flooring in the bath, so you need to choose an acceptable one and adapt it to your building. Bath floors can be made independently, you just need to have general concepts about the principles of their laying and the differences between the schemes.

Laying floors in the washroom

Washing area, perhaps, the main room of the bath. Here, between short visits to the steam room, visitors spend most of their time.

In the washing compartment, water constantly flows in large volumes, which is why maximum attention should be paid to the arrangement of this bath area. Especially when laying floors, since they are the most exposed to moisture and temperature changes, it depends on them whether the washroom will be comfortable and warm or uncomfortable and cold.

There is always a lot of water in the washing room, so the floors should be well ventilated and dry quickly.

The high humidity of this room puts forward special requirements for flooring so that they do not collapse in a fairly short time. Washroom floors should:

• resist thermal shocks and do not let in a draft;
• be breathable and dry quickly;
• ensure normal ventilation, free outflow of water, acceptable temperature of the floor covering.

With these requirements in mind, the owner of the bath must consider all types of floors and choose the most suitable one. Moreover, it is necessary to decide on the materials for the floor even before pouring the screed.

Floor structures for washing

The surface temperature of the sauna floor rarely exceeds 30 °C, because the floor should be warm, not hot, pleasant even for bare feet, and not so that even bath slippers will melt. Therefore, you can use any material for its assembly - wood, tile, clay, concrete and others.

Do not use synthetic coatings. Chemistry has no place where high temperature and humidity are present.

Every floor covering has its pros and cons:

Consider the most common options for bath floors.

Wooden floor in the washroom

Hardwood and coniferous lumber is suitable for its arrangement: cedar, spruce, oak, ash, larch, fir. It is better to choose softwoods, since the resin they produce significantly increases the life of the floors. In addition, the tree has a healing effect on the body, and wet wooden flooring does not slip, and this is additional safety for visitors.

The advantages of wooden floors include:

• simplicity and ease of installation;
• naturalness, environmental friendliness and durability;
• low labor cost.

The disadvantages are the following:

If you settled on wooden floors, then you should know that, depending on the drain device, they are of two types: leaking and non-leaking structures.

In turn, leaking floors differ in the laying pattern:

Consider the sequence of work for the installation of leaking floors.

1. A hole is dug in the middle of the basement.
2. A trench breaks from its bottom in the direction of the drain cuvette, in which a sewer (drainage) pipe is laid with an inclination towards the water collector by about 3–4 ° (approximate difference in height over the entire trench is 5 cm per linear meter).

   The sewer pipe for draining water is laid with a slope towards the water intake

3. The foundation of the bath is being erected and waterproofed.
4. After that, along the entire border of the subfloor, from the walls of the base (or pillars), the earth is again taken out with a slope of 10 ° towards the dug hole.
5. Then the slope slopes are covered with rubble and well compacted (for greater strength, you can lay on top of the rubble reinforcing mesh with cells of the order of 80x80 mm). Everything is poured with a dense concrete mortar, which is leveled and smoothed. To reduce the cost of work, well-mixed clay can be used instead of concrete. It is laid out with a 10-centimeter layer, leveled and, as it dries, moistened with water and smoothed.
6. Further, the walls of the foundation, if this is provided for by the technology, are tied with a metal belt and beam structures treated with an antiseptic are mounted. The lower coronal rungs are attached to the harness, and if there is none, then to the walls of the base with the help of anchors or studs).

   Sexual logs in the bath do not need to be cut into the crown crown, then they can be easily replaced if necessary

7. Floor boards with gaps are laid on the floor beams. The thickness of the boards depends on the distance between the joists, but should not be less than 20 mm.

   Simple and reliable floors with slots for draining water are quickly installed and easily replaced with new ones

Often, the boards are not attached to the beam vault, but are connected to each other with a bar and ready-made shields are simply placed on top. The beam must be located among the floor beams. Such shields are very convenient to take out to dry.

The scheme of equipment for non-leaking floors is not much different from the one described above in principle, although it is more difficult to implement. The difference is that the boards are laid without gaps on the rough flooring, for which second-grade wood is quite suitable.

For such floors, the logs are deepened into a concrete or clay layer (possibly into the soil itself), waterproofing is laid on top, sealed with a sealant. The space between the lags is filled with insulation. The draft floor is made with a slope towards the grated drain hole, through which water from the washing room enters the sewer network or sewage pit and is covered with polyethylene, then a wooden flooring is mounted.

In the arrangement of non-leaking floors, water flows into a specially equipped hole along an inclined plane

It is impossible to disassemble such floors for drying, so you need to provide excellent ventilation so that the wooden floor of a leak-proof structure does not rot ahead of time. This is its minus, but the non-leaking assembly is more durable and durable and provides for the possibility of a heating device to ensure maximum comfort from water procedures even in severe frosts.

Under the finish coating of a non-leaking floor, heating can be arranged

The choice of materials for the drain device

Let's say right away that it is impossible to save on materials for arranging floors in a washroom. You need to choose the best, modern ones that will be effective for years. To create a sewage system, it is necessary to use plastic building materials that do not corrode, are resistant to getting wet, are easy to assemble and operate without losing their qualities for more than 50 years.

These can be pipes made of PVC, HDPE, PVC (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride), polypropylene or corrugated polyethylene products. Any of them are perfect for an internal drainage device in a bath.

The diameter of the pipes is selected according to the intensity of use of the bath:

• if a steam room, sauna, toilet (i.e., several drain points) are provided, then pipes Ø 100–110 mm will be required;
• without the use of plumbing, only pipes Ø 50 mm are enough to drain water.

Material calculation and tools

To organize an internal drain in the washing department, you need:

• pipes Ø 110 or Ø 50 - the amount is calculated depending on the length of the drainage network;
• adapters from Ø 50 to Ø 110 for connecting pipes of different diameters;
• tees 110x110x90 and elbow 90° - 3 pieces each;
• vertical pipes for water inlets (Ø 110 or Ø 50);
• cement, crushed stone and sand.

Materials are purchased according to the chosen installation method. The same applies to tools. But in any case, you will need:

• building level;
• Bulgarian;
• bayonet shovel.

Concrete floor in washroom

Concrete flooring is the most common due to its low cost and ease of installation.

After hardening, you can make flooring from cork slabs or wooden gratings and install a drain.

For safety's sake, it's best not to cover the concrete floor. tiles or lay wooden lattice shields on top.

Other types of floors in the washroom

Those who revere old bathing traditions equip an earthen floor in the washroom. The process of laying it is extremely simple - cut off the top layer of the earth by about 15 cm around the entire perimeter of the room and tamp the remaining earth.

If you really respect the customs of your ancestors, then you need to dig a foundation pit half a meter deep and fill it with a mixture of fine sand and gravel. If desired, boards can be laid on top.

Previously, the floors in the bath were arranged directly on the ground, after cutting off its top layer and ramming the base

We have already talked about the clay floor, but despite all the advantages of the clay itself, such a floor has a big drawback - the clay dries poorly, and when it dries, it forms cracks into which water seeps. As a result of this, a persistent unpleasant marsh odor appears in the washing room over time.

In a word, the best choice there will be wood, although it can be combined with other materials.

Video: do-it-yourself correct floors in a washing bath

Floor covering in the washing room

The floor is ready, it's time to think about protecting it. Everyone knows about the antiseptic, you should not neglect it and save on it. They process wooden elements even before the start of the main work, otherwise the wooden flooring can be ruined. The antiseptic does not change the texture of wood, does not contain heavy metals and harmful salts, and perfectly protects wooden components from biological damage.

It is also recommended to use a good varnish. Before applying it, you need to prepare the surface well. It must be clean, greasy spots polished to a mirror state and dry. The varnish is applied in several layers, after it has completely dried, the bath must be heated and ventilated.

Lacquer must be applied to a previously sanded and well-cleaned surface.

Floors can be painted. Only paint should be highest quality and absolutely harmless when heated.

In addition, there are folk remedies for flooring - the use of waste after processing sunflower oil. They are applied with a roller on a thoroughly cleaned and dried surface. Repeat 2-3 times at intervals of three days. This coating is safe, gives the wood beautiful shade Plus, it's practically free.

If the floor in the bath is concrete, then it must be covered with a finishing material, since by itself it looks unattractive. They cover the concrete floor with a massive floor board, porcelain stoneware or ceramic slabs, parquet, cork products.

In principle, any material is suitable, as long as it meets all safety rules. And the rest, it all depends on the intended design, on the personal preferences of the owner of the bath and on his financial capabilities.

Laying the floor in the steam room

Although the steam room is the heart of the bath, the floors in it, surprisingly, are the least significant segment of the entire bath project. The main thing here is the wall partitions and the ceiling. Remember how primitive everything was with our great-grandfathers. They threw plank blocks or split logs on the ground, and this was enough to take a bath with pleasure even in areas with severe winters. Cold feet? Splashed hot water and everything. No one complained and health was excellent.

Therefore, too much attention should not be paid to laying the floors in the steam room. Some advise equipping floors with insulation, vapor barrier and rough flooring in the steam room. Of course, this is very modern, but for a steam room it will be a waste of money.

As practice shows, a simple scheme for arranging floors in a bath is the best

And why drive moisture deep into the wood. It is much better and easier to create conditions for the free passage of water, and then take care of drying and ventilation. And it is much more important to make the floors in the steam room non-slip to avoid injury.

If the steam room is combined with the washing department, then there is no structural difference between them, everything is common and the same, the floors in this case are equipped according to the methods described above.

When the steam room is a separate area and there is no need to drain a large amount of water, then the floor is laid from edged board with small chamfers (deck board). The slots may be slightly narrower.

The deck board is made from larch and therefore resists moisture well.

Much easier with concrete floors- they are made in exactly the same way as in all sections of the bath. A wooden ladder is certainly laid on top, since naked naked concrete slab not very pleasant.

The arrangement of the floor in the steam room, as, indeed, in the entire bath, is an excellent indicator: if it is cold in the bath after laying it, then look at the ceiling, most likely, there are problems with vapor barrier there.

What to make the floor in the steam room from: choosing the best material

Of course, wood is out of competition:

And what absolutely cannot be used for floors in a steam room is linoleum, chipboard and fiberboard. Wood boards ignite easily, and non-natural materials are capable of high temperature release hazardous substances.

Concrete floor equipment in the steam room

It is advisable to purchase all the necessary building materials from one manufacturer. This will add strength to the entire structure as a whole. Need to buy:

• edge tape;
• sand, cement M200 or 300 and gravel;
• primer, roofing felt and dry mix of self-leveling screed.

Tools for the job

To complete the entire process of equipping the floor in the steam room, you will need:

• protective equipment for eyes and hands;
• bayonet shovel and building level;
• a basin for mixing a solution or a bucket;
• concrete mixer and mixer;
• rollers (needle and primer);
• rules and construction trowel;
• gas burner for soldering roofing material.

Step-by-step instructions for laying a concrete floor in a steam room

1. Solution preparation. You will need a concrete mixer in which the components of the solution are placed - sand, cement grade 200 or 300 and gravel in a ratio of 2: 1: 3. It does not make sense to use other brands of cement (higher ones), this will only increase the cost of the work. Add water and bring to the desired consistency.

   To prepare the solution, sand, gravel, cement and water are used.

2. Subfloor fitting. The soil in the steam room is covered with roofing material cut into sheets, and gas burner the seams are soldered. It is needed as a waterproofing agent. A 10-cm concrete layer is applied over the roofing material with a construction trowel, after which the entire screed is leveled to the level using the rule. When the solution is completely dry, proceed to the next step.

   After the pouring is completed, the concrete layer must be leveled with the rule

3. Final alignment. Literally to the millimeter, the final leveling of the concrete layer is done. For this, a self-leveling compound is used. Before laying it, the surface is cleaned of debris and dust, and then primed. The primer is applied with a conventional roller.
4. Application of self-leveling screed. Along the entire length of the steam room, the bottom of the wall is glued with edge tape. This is done so that the screed does not stick to the wall and does not burst in the future. The dry self-leveling mixture is diluted with water in the proportions indicated on the package and mixed with a mixer until smooth. Following this, it is evenly poured over the entire surface and leveled with a spiked roller to remove air bubbles.
5. Finishing work. The floor filled with a self-leveling screed is left to dry and only then proceed to the finishing work.

Video: pouring the screed in the bath with your own hands

Floor covering in the steam room

Some people believe that no impregnation should be used in the steam room, arguing that the bath should give health, and not emit harmful fumes at high temperatures. It's hard to disagree with this. But there is another side of the coin - physical wear and tear and decay.

Not only the wood with which the steam room is sheathed needs protection, but even the concrete floor screed loses its properties over the years. Plus, untreated, it accumulates dust that lovers of hot steam breathe.

If this is of little concern to the owner of the bath and he is ready to change the lining of the steam room (including replacing or repairing the floor) every 5 years, then, of course, no impregnations and oils. Otherwise, it is necessary to do the processing of the steam room and it is advisable to use natural wax and oils for this, specially designed for saunas and steam rooms.

Linseed oil emphasizes the structure of wood, creates on its surface protective film and does not emit harmful substances when heated

Concrete floor screed can be treated with organic and inorganic impregnations. This will increase the wear resistance of concrete, prevent excessive accumulation of dust. But it is necessary to apply impregnations in a steam room thoughtfully, carefully studying the instructions and composition.

There are many schemes for arranging floors in the washroom and steam room. All of them are accessible and understandable. They can be implemented independently. You can even apply several technologies at the same time, such a combination will give good drainage and a flat surface. But as practice shows, the technology that is simpler is better. Good luck and light steam.