Bath with your own hands: projects, photos, description of the stages of construction. Do-it-yourself bath in the country: a project, materials and a guide on how to build a bath How to build a small bath in a summer cottage

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How to build a bath in the country

Building a bathhouse and its further arrangement on your own is not an easy task. But still, doable. Initially, you should think about choosing the right materials and components. It is worth noting that today there are many building materials that are perfect for building a summer house. Therefore, it is easy to get confused in the choice of these materials. However, there is no need to worry. After all, a special portal Beton-Area.com today will tell you how to build a bathhouse in the country with your own hands inexpensively. Here we will give useful tips and show a special video with which you can carry out this process correctly.

How to determine the right place to build a bath

In order for the bath to serve for a long time, first of all, you need to make a competent choice of a place for a future bath. In this case, our advice will simply be useful to you.

The location of the bath should be chosen away from any body of water. Why is it necessary to do so? It turns out that it can simply be flooded with water.
You can make a bath additionally by attaching it to an existing house, or build it as a separate building. These options differ from each other in their unique advantages and disadvantages. In any case, only you can choose the appropriate option for building a future bath.
The most suitable place for building a future bath is the most extreme part of your land or yard.
For a bath, it is necessary to properly provide for a good system of future ventilation and proper disposal of wastewater.
The place chosen for construction, located near the road, will be considered incorrect.
The southern part of the plot or yard is considered the right choice for this construction site. It turns out that in the southern part of the land, the finished bath will receive maximum sunlight. In addition, in this part of the courtyard, the bathhouse will be protected from the wind. Indeed, if you build a bathhouse in the southern part of your yard, you can make the stay of people resting there as comfortable and very pleasant as possible.
If you decide to attach a bath to an existing house, then in this case it is necessary to comply with fire safety requirements.
It is advisable to choose a future place for the construction of this structure far from the nearest neighboring houses, since your bathhouse may serve as an inconvenience for a good rest for people living next to you.
If possible, the windows in the bathhouse should be located in the western part of the finished building.
The bath must be built close to the existing well, at a distance of about 15-20m.

This publication will fully answer the question of how to build a bath in the country. Let's continue talking about this process.

So, before you build a bath, you need to correctly draw and design the future structure. Properly choose the future area of your bath. Remember that it must be at least 6 sq.m. for 1 person in this building. Suppose, if 5 people visit the bath, then, accordingly, its area should be 30 sq.m. As a rule, in the bath there should be a room allocated for a steam room. Also in the bath it is necessary to place a rest room and a dressing room. In organizing the premises that should be in the bath, you need to decide for yourself what area to determine for the listed future rooms.

First you need to design and draw drawings of the future bath. The drawings should include:

General design of the bath.
The project of all rooms that will be located in this room.
Roof drawing.
Description of the fastening of the beam.
Schemes of the future ceiling and floor.
Options for installing a stove in a future bath.

All of the above schemes and projects can be prepared by yourself. Also, such drawings can be found on readable sites on the Internet or any other sources. In general, having considered a large number of these drawings and projects of the future bath, we can conclude that they are all almost similar to each other, and have only slight differences.

Necessary choice of accessories and materials for the bath

To build a bath using a bar, you need to purchase the necessary components and various materials for this.

To build a bath, you should buy construction material- timber, which will have a section of 150 by 150mm.
To lay the future floor in the bath, you need to buy a wooden board. The right choice is a cut board, which has a four-meter length with a section of 15 by 5 centimeters.
The material for the ceiling is, as a rule, boards from lining.
You also need to take care of the purchase of all kinds of materials for finishing work indoors. In most cases, the use of wooden distillation for finishing in the bath is very popular.
It is also important to purchase a certain amount of vapor barrier materials - tapes or films of various properties. For a bath, the most commonly used material is penofol or polyethylene film.
For a finished bath, it is recommended to purchase materials for insulating an already finished ceiling. Most builders opt for ecowool or mineral wool. These materials are environmentally friendly and have good performance heat and sound insulation. Therefore, they are perfect for warming the ceiling in the bath.
Bath construction involves the use of asbestos-cement materials to provide good and much-needed thermal insulation in the bath. The most practical and effective material is sheet asbestos. As a rule, these sheets are placed and fixed on the walls near the stove and chimney.
The construction of a bath is impossible to imagine without a foundation. Therefore, for the manufacture of the foundation of a modern bath, materials with bulk properties are used - sand, cement and gravel.
During the construction of the bath, it is imperative to use materials for the final finishing of the roof. In this case, you can resort to various options you like. The main thing in this task is the appearance future roof. It should not stand out too much from the surrounding neighboring houses or buildings.
It is desirable to erect a future bath in spring period. This is necessary so that after the completion of all work there is time left for shrinkage of this room. Also, all materials used in the construction of the bath must dry. Cement should be purchased before construction work. In this case, it will not deteriorate.

General instructions for building a bath

The construction of the bath must be carried out in several stages. First, work is carried out to prepare the site for construction, and then the arrangement of rooms with all kinds of accessories and components.

We are preparing a site for construction. The necessary place must first be cleared, remove debris, existing roots of plants or trees. this work necessary to obtain a more even place for the future foundation.

Foundation manufacturing. The most popular type existing works for the manufacture of the foundation is the foundation, which has a support in the form of pillars. The first step is to dig the required number of holes to place the future support of our foundation in them. Their installation is carried out at the right angle along the general perimeter of the building and where there are sections that intersect with the walls. These pillars are installed, as a rule, depending on the characteristics of the existing soil at the site of the building and on the load that will act on the support. The depth of the required holes for the foundation should be approximately 110-160cm. It is necessary to backfill all pits with a mixture consisting of sand and pebbles. The depth of the layer should be 13-20cm. Cement pipes must be installed in ready-made pits, observing a clear vertical level. In each of them by placing reinforcement, consisting of metal rods. Pipes should be poured with concrete containing reinforcement. This design should be given time for 5-6 days to strengthen and harden. After that, we will begin work on laying out the walls between the pillars in half a brick.

Making the roof and walls of the future bath. For the manufacture of walls of the future premises, a beam measuring 150 by 150 mm is used. Bars are laid on a foundation ready and insulated with a special material, resorting to the so-called “in the paw” method. Laying timber for walls is carried out at the required height, always making gaps for future doors and windows in this building. A special insulation is laid between the layers of the laid bars.

Components and accessories for the operation of the bath. The upper part of the lined wall is brought under the roof and strengthened in accordance with the given form of the roof of the room. We fasten the rafters to the final layer of the timber with construction brackets. If you opted for a shed roof, then the rafters need to be fixed with two supports - either internal or external. Having a gable roof, it follows that the existing lower parts at the rafters should be supported on the walls. And the upper parts of the rafters are interconnected and take the form of a ridge.

Arrangement indoors. Initially, it is necessary to start the arrangement with carrying out desired system communications. Communication such as sewerage should be taken care of before pouring the foundation. First of all, make a drainage hole or well outside the future bath. The connection to the pit is made using a pipe laid under a certain slope.

After completing these works, you should proceed to the manufacture of the floor in the room. There are several types of it - concrete or wood. The concrete floors were finished using tiles. This item is very practical. A floor made of wood is made with water drained through it. It is very easy to do this. Boards with certain gaps are nailed to the installed lags. Most builders use a drain hatch, closing it with a special grate. When using this technology, it is necessary to lay the floor with the required slope. In this case, all the accumulated water will exit through the hatch into the pipe, and from there fall into the drainage pit.

To increase the life of wood, our advice to you is to ventilate the bath every time after visiting it.

In the bath, you also need to make a good heat-moisture-vapor barrier, using the materials necessary for this. Install windows and doors. Conduct electricity.

Manufacturing and installation of shelves and stoves in the bath

Appearance and design feature the shelves you choose in the bath can be any. The shelves are installed in the following order - the first step was the installation of the frame, using wooden beams, and then the necessary boards were nailed to it.

When purchasing a stove for a bath, people, in most cases, stop at choosing a product that they liked the most in appearance. Also, many people are engaged in laying out a stone stove on their own, and some people buy special equipment for baths or an apparatus with heating elements.

Components and accessories for the operation of the bath

There are a huge number of various components and accessories for taking a bath on sale. You can buy for your finished bath: various wooden buckets and cisterns, oak brooms, mugs, bowls and others required attributes. The interior inside the bath can be different, depending on your preferences and taste.

Now you know how to build a bath in the country with your own hands in stages.

How to build a bath in the country with your own hands inexpensively useful advice and video

So, before you build a bath, you need to correctly draw and design the future structure. Properly choose the future area of your bath. Remember that it must be at least 6 sq.m.

Do-it-yourself bathhouse in the country: step by step instructions

A trip to the dacha is a joyful event, since there you can do a garden or landscaping, and then relax, having a steam bath, provided that it is there. We will tell you how to make a bath in the country with your own hands, demonstrate drawings, diagrams and photo instructions. You'll have to work hard, but it's worth it.

In your imagination, you probably already see how you approach the bathhouse, open the door and find yourself in a warm and cozy dressing room, and then into the steam room. Yes! This is exactly what will happen, but a little later. First you need:

choose the right project;
get acquainted with the stages of construction;
purchase building materials;
build a bathhouse and bring all communications;
finish the interior and only then bathe.

If, after reading the introduction, you have not lost the desire to make a bath in the country, then we will continue the topic, considering all the stages of construction.

Choosing a place for the construction of a bath

The place for the bath must be chosen correctly

Often summer cottages are not large, but in addition to personal preferences and convenience, there are also norms that must be followed. Let's look at preferences first.

It would be better to put the bath on a hill, which will greatly simplify the organization of draining the water.
It is good when the bath is located next to a pond or river.
The rays of the setting sun penetrating the steam room through the window will relieve stress, but at the same time it is necessary to make sure that the entrance to the bath is clearly visible from the window of the country house. So you can watch the bathhouse being heated and the children, especially when a swimming pool is built in front of the entrance.
The bath can be made in the form of an extension to the house.

In order to avoid conflict situations with authorities or neighbors, the instructions of SNiP 30-02-97 must be observed. Paying attention to section 6, paragraphs 6, 7 and 8, you will find comprehensive information on the placement of the building on the site, but we will give only the numbers that you need in order to choose the best place for the bath.

Taking into account fire safety measures for buildings located on opposite sides of the passage, the distances indicated in the table must be adhered to:

The distance, which directly depends on the material used in the construction of the building

The same buildings using wooden elements

Wooden and similar buildings

As for the requirements regarding the distances to the neighboring site, they are also unambiguous.

The minimum allowable distance between buildings located on a neighboring plot

A variety of outbuildings (they include a bathhouse)

It is also important to take into account the requirements for the location of buildings on your site - from garden house shower, bath and sauna must be at least 8 m away.

By the way, non-compliance with these norms can lead to litigation with a neighbor and the demolition or transfer of the bath to another place.

Bath project

When choosing a bath project, it is important to consider the material from which it will be built. There can be several types of structure:

Frame bath.
Wooden bath (from timber or rounded logs).
Bath made of brick, stone or blocks.
Arbolite building.

Having decided on the material, when choosing a project, make sure that it suits you according to all the criteria.

The layout of a small bath 6 × 3 m

Option for planning a bath from a log house

Planning a bath for a summer residence

Bath plan 6×6 m

Material selection

So, having chosen a suitable project, in accordance with its requirements, you need to prepare building materials.

Most often, summer residents prefer to build frame buildings, as they are the cheapest and successfully cope with their task. In addition, due to the low weight of such a design, the foundation also does not have to be spent much.
The most favorite buildings are wooden. The cost of such a building will be slightly higher, and the foundation will need to be made stronger, in contrast to the frame structure. A good wooden bathhouse built in the country does not need to be insulated.
Stone and brick are rarely used to build a bath in the country. This is due to the fact that such a heavy structure needs a strong foundation, and the walls freeze during long absences and such a bath needs to be warmed up for a long time. The exceptions are buildings made of foam and gas blocks. The requirements for the strength of the foundation are not so high, the walls turn out to be warm, but it is important to consider that this building material is very hygroscopic, so it must be protected from moisture.
Arbolit is also often used in the construction of baths. Walls can be monolithic or built from blocks. The structure is warm, durable and inexpensive.

Wall materials

Since our article deals with several options use of various building materials, we will consider them separately.

frame structure

The material for the frame bath should be of good quality, and the bars should be dry and even.

The walls of such a bath are made in a lattice structure. For the walls of the frame you will need:

Timber of various sections, the dimensions and quantity of which are indicated in the project.
Insulating material with high thermal insulation qualities for filling the frame. Again, you need to adhere to the requirements regarding the use of one or another insulation material, but here it should be borne in mind that the documentation often indicates one type of material, but not all possible ones. If the specified material is too expensive, then you can refer to the forums to clarify what is acceptable in your area.
Material for sheathing the frame outside and inside. Most often, OSB boards, edged boards, siding or block house are used for the exterior cladding of a building, while lining is used from the inside.

wooden bath

Using a rounded log, you can very quickly build a bath, as everything is prepared in advance at the factory

For the construction of walls can be used:

Natural debarked tree.
Cut beam.
Profiled bar.
Glued beam.
Round log.

Bath made of brick, stone or blocks

The walls of such a bath can be made of the following materials:

Brick (ceramic or silicate).
Stone (quarrystone, limestone, shell rock).
Block (foam, slag, gas blocks).

Arbolite building

Wood concrete is durable and lightweight, so it is also often used in construction work.

If it is possible to purchase sawdust inexpensively (or maybe you have your own), then at home it is quite possible to make arbolite blocks quite High Quality. Also, this building material in the form of finished blocks is on sale. Walls are built very quickly. Another advantage of using wood concrete is the ability to manufacture monolithic walls by pouring cement-shaving mortar into the formwork.

Materials for the ceiling in the bath

The dressing room and the rest room are warm rooms, so it is recommended to use materials with low thermal conductivity - aspen, linden or alder.

For sheathing the ceiling of the steam room, it is preferable to use wooden lining, as it is able to withstand high temperatures. Pine or spruce products should not be used in this room, when heated, resin begins to stand out from this wood. It is also impossible to hem the ceiling with sheets of fiberboard and chipboard, since moisture and high temperature contribute to the release of fumes that can harm human health.

Materials for insulation and vapor barrier

It is advisable to perform external insulation only if the bath is heated. It is unlikely that someone will make such a luxury in the country, so we are considering materials for internal insulation unheated bath.

The frame bath does not need to be insulated, since the thermal insulation is laid inside the structure. In a wooden bath, you need to make a crate into which a heater is inserted. Other types of baths need insulation made using more complex technology.

To perform the work, mineral wool is required, the thickness of which is selected depending on the material used in the construction of the bath and climatic conditions. Usually a layer of at least 50 mm is laid. Insulation can be in the form of mats or in rolls.

As for vapor barrier, it is important to know that this is not waterproofing. Each has its own purpose. Even an inexpensive vapor barrier will do its job, while waterproofing, used for other purposes, can nullify all the work.

What you especially need to pay attention to is not to get a fake.

Decoration Materials

Since we are talking about a bath in the country, we will not talk about chic types of finishes. The best option would be to use wood: lining or similar facing materials.

As for the exterior, it can be any material that is used for sheathing houses. If the bath is made of rounded logs, then it would be unreasonable to close the already beautiful facade with something else.

Bath construction

Now we will consider how the construction of a bathhouse in the country with our own hands can be done. It is clear that the work will be easier to do with an assistant, which may be one of the family members. At the initial stage of the work, some instructions can be given to children. Of course, they will not do everything and not as quickly as we would like, but if they feel that they are needed, then they will then be more careful about the bathhouse built with their participation.

But let's be realistic, small children will help a little, and if you build it alone, it will be a long-term construction, especially since some work cannot be done alone. As you read this article, you'll see when and how many helpers may be needed - this will help you plan everything.

So, the plan has been chosen, the location has been decided, now let's start marking on the ground. To do this, in accordance with the scale specified in the project, transfer the contour of the bath to the area. In the place where the corner of the building will be, a long peg (or reinforcement) is hammered, and the lengths of two walls located at an angle of 90 ° are measured from it. The next pegs are hammered there, and the distances of other walls are measured from them. Finally, the last - the fourth peg is hammered.

Now, when there is a designated perimeter of the future structure, you need to check how straight the corners turned out. To do this, it is necessary to perform a check along the axes - measure the distance from one peg to another. The received data must match. If this is not the case, then the plane must be shifted, "shortening" the longest axis. After that, it will be necessary to check not only the axes, but also other dimensions, and, if necessary, correct them again.

If the foundation is tape, then a slight discrepancy can be left, but for a pile or column foundation, the marking must be very accurately done.

So we marked the dimensions of the bath in accordance with the design data. Further marking is performed depending on what the foundation will be. More details about this can be found in the table.

Where is it applied and how is markup performed

slab foundation

This type of foundation, due to its high cost, is done only in cases where it cannot be dispensed with. Marking is carried out according to the size of the building or a little more when it is necessary that the foundation be wider and longer than the bath.

Shallow strip foundation

A very common type of foundation. Relatively inexpensive and durable. The marking is carried out in such a way that the tape filled with concrete passes along the perimeter of the building and under the walls.

Column Foundation

This type of foundation is also often found. It is mainly used for mounting wooden structures on it. Depending on the dimensions of the bath, the marking is carried out according to the number of manufactured supports.

screw foundation

It is believed that this type of foundation is new, but this is an erroneous conclusion based on the fact that it has recently been used in civil engineering. The screw foundation has stood the test of time, as the military has long begun to use it. The advantage of the foundation device on screw piles is the speed and ease of installation. The second advantage is that there is no need to carry out earthworks, so the site will remain clean. In addition, it can be used to build a bath even on a site with a significant slope.

The marking is done according to the number of piles and no deviation to the side is allowed.

Weigh all the pros and cons, and then make the final decision regarding the choice of the type of foundation.

Foundation pouring

The manufacture of a shallow strip foundation is acceptable under the following conditions:

The soil in the area is dry and loose.
Level ground water low enough.
In winter, frosts are not very strong.
The buildings are not heavy.

Do not try to guess the type of foundation for a heavy structure. If you are not sure, then invite specialists who, after performing the appropriate checks, will give an accurate answer.

Let's start with a simpler and most commonly used shallow foundation for a bath.

We have external markings, now we need to make internal ones, taking into account the fact that the width of the foundation must be at least 50 cm, and must protrude 5–10 cm from each side of the building. Therefore, if the bath is 3 × 4 m, then the largest size along the outer perimeter will be 3.2 × 4.2 m.
It is important to take into account the installation location of the furnace and at the same time make the foundation for it.
For convenience, in the corners you need to install wooden structures similar to benches. They need to be set in the same plane along the height of the future formwork and a measuring cord should be attached to them. How to do this is shown in the illustration.

For a strip foundation, marking is carried out both along the outer and inner contours.

Need to remove the fertile upper layer soil and remove it to the side, then dig a trench, the clay from which can then be used as backfill.
As for the depth of the trench, in some cases it can be 35 cm. Much depends on the depth of freezing and the soil itself. It is necessary to dig to a solid clay layer and in no case stop on the ground. Therefore, most often the depth is in the range of 50–60 cm.
The bottom of the trench must be leveled by checking its horizontal level.
Now it's time for the sand bed. It is necessary to pour a layer of sand into the trench, at least 15 cm thick, moisten with water and compact well. To do this, it would be more convenient to use a vibrotamper, but it can also be done manually, using a heavy bar with handles nailed to it.
The next layer is poured with crushed stone of the middle fraction and also carefully rammed.
Now it's the turn of the formwork, the height of which should reach the stretched cord. It can be made from improvised materials or wood harvested for other purposes, since this temporary structure will be dismantled shortly after pouring the foundation. Finished shields must be installed along the trench and well fixed, otherwise the poured concrete may move them.

The formwork must be securely fastened. You can also immediately insert the sleeve, then to carry out communications

In order not to stain the boards, and so that the concrete does not flow out through the cracks, the formwork is closed from the inside plastic wrap to be fixed with a stapler or thin nails.
Now you need to make a frame of metal or plastic fittings, fastened with knitting wire.

You can perform all calculations in our online calculator.

The fabricated frame should not reach the edges of 5 cm. It must be carefully lowered into the trench so as not to tear the film protecting the formwork. To raise the frame above the bedding, you need to put pieces of granite under it, since, unlike brick, it will not crumble under the influence of moisture.
If any communications pass through the foundation, then you need to leave holes for them, which will help the sleeves, as done in the photo above. The same applies to the manufacture of products.
Plan your time in such a way as to pour the foundation with concrete in a day, since breaks are not allowed here - then the tape will not be monolithic. It is convenient to deliver the concrete with a mixer and pour it directly from it, otherwise it will have to be kneaded in a concrete mixer, on the basis that M400 cement will need 1 bucket, sand - 3, crushed stone (or gravel) - 5 buckets.
The foundation poured with concrete should be compacted with a vibrator or bayoneted. After shrinkage, you need to add a little concrete and level the site. If a foundation is being made for a wooden house, then foundation bolts must be fixed in uncured concrete.
Not earlier than a week later, you can remove the formwork.

It should be remembered that concrete has not yet gained full strength, so it must be handled with care or wait 28 days, and only then build a bath.

Wall masonry

When building a bath from blocks, stone or brick, you need to level the foundation with a cement-sand mortar, and lay a roofing material folded in half on it. Masonry starts from the corners. Having installed the first blocks on the cement-sand mortar, you need to make sure that they are in the same plane, and only after that a twine is pulled along the upper outer edge, which serves as a guide for laying a number of building materials.

When laying the next row, the masonry mixture may differ: a wall of brick and shell rock is erected on a cement-sand mortar, while mixtures recommended by the manufacturer are used for laying lightweight blocks.

Having installed the jumpers above the doors and windows, you need to install the formwork on top and make an armored belt, fixing the foundation bolts in it for the subsequent fastening of the Mauerlat board. After the concrete has hardened, it will be possible to proceed with the manufacture of the roof.

The construction of the frame of the bath

The basis of such a bath is a wooden frame, which is insulated and sheathed with various types finishing materials. Need to choose quality materials and observe the sequence of their installation.

For the manufacture of the frame, boards from well-dried larch, aspen or linden will be needed, because this wood has low thermal conductivity. The manufactured shields will be resistant to deformation.

On the foundation, a frame of the lower trim is made from a beam of 100 × 100 mm. At the ends of the bars, you need to make cuts in half the thickness and fasten them together with self-tapping screws. If 50 × 100 mm bars are used, then the frame can be assembled end-to-end using metal corners. The dimensions of the bar used depend on the type of foundation, design and size of the bath.

Making the base for the frame bath

At the next stage, the end strapping board is installed, and the floor logs are attached to it right next to it. A beam of 50 × 100 mm is used.
On the opposite side, the logs are cut in such a way that a second end strapping board can be installed.
The logs must be arranged so that the prepared insulation becomes close between them, then the end strapping boards are nailed.
The wall frame is assembled from a 50 × 100 mm beam, and then installed in its place, all parts are fastened into a single structure.

To ensure the vapor barrier of the frame bath, you need to use vapor barrier film, which will avoid the accumulation of moisture inside the frame. As thermal insulation material mineral wool or fiberglass is used. They are able to provide a high level of sealing without disturbing the natural air exchange.

It is preferable to carry out insulation and wall cladding after the installation of the roof. This approach will protect the wood and insulation from getting wet.

Concrete floor installation with wooden flooring

If in the frame bath it remains only to insulate the floor and lay floorboard, then for other buildings you will have to work harder - you need to install logs, make a subfloor, fix a vapor barrier, lay insulation, perform waterproofing, lay a floorboard, which will have to be changed in a few years. Considering that the dacha in the dacha will not be thoroughly dried due to the lack of time for this, because after the weekend you will need to quickly leave for the city, then if there is such an opportunity, it would be preferable to make a concrete floor and tile it. Wooden shields are laid on it, which can be taken out to dry in a barn and calmly go home.

Wooden floor with insulation

It is clear that for a frame and other structure installed on a columnar or pile foundation, only a wooden floor with insulation is acceptable. This process is described in more detail in the next two videos.

roof construction

Above any bath there should be a reliable roof, but the options for creating it can be different. In any case, you need to lay waterproofing, and then thermal insulation, think about the type of roof and the choice of a suitable roofing material. Without waterproofing, steam will freely enter the attic, and, settling on beams and rafters, will contribute to their rapid destruction. In addition, the condensate formed on the roofing material will begin to drain onto the insulation, which will affect the properties and durability of the latter.

The type of terrain has a great influence on the choice of the type of roof, since the technical parameters of the structure must be taken into account.

So, in a holiday village, especially when it is located among tall trees, you can safely make a high gable roof.
If the cottage is located in the steppe zone, blown by all the winds, then the slope for the roof must be made minimal.
With small sizes of baths and minor snow loads, the roof can be made single-pitched. The same roof is most often made in a bathhouse attached to the house.

Interior and exterior decoration

Although for interior decoration wood is most often used, not all wood is suitable for this purpose. It is necessary to choose the right material, especially for a steam room, in which a high temperature is created with high humidity. It should be said right away that pine lumber, as well as fiberboard, chipboard and linoleum, cannot be used to finish this room. Therefore, you need to purchase lining made of larch or linden.

As for other rooms, the conditions there are not so extreme, therefore there are no such high requirements for the material used - what cannot be used in a steam room is perfect for a rest room and dressing room. Pine lining in the dressing room will exude a pleasant aroma and create a feeling of comfort.

Finishing wood and brick bath clapboard is performed almost the same way. First, a crate is attached to the wall, and a lining is already attached to it. An exception is the steam room, in which there should be heat-reflecting foil under the crate.

Exterior decoration is carried out not only to make the bath beautiful, but also to protect it.

You have to choose suitable material and decorate the façade.

Ventilation in the bath

Sometimes there is still such an opinion that good ventilation in the steam room is useless, since all the heat comes out through it, and it is made very weak, or it is completely absent. But there is another extreme, when the ventilation process is not controlled, and the heat escapes from the bath. In such a steam room at the top it is very hot, and the legs are cold.

In fact, while taking bath procedures, the air in the room should be updated 2-3 times per hour, but this is not enough, since ventilation must be done correctly. Usually the inlet is located at the bottom near the boiler, and the exhaust is under the ceiling on the opposite side. While the steam room is warming up, the exhaust window is closed. Then it opens and warm air begins to quickly leave the room. As a result, the steam room becomes cool and uncomfortable. You can make ventilation, as in the diagram.

Scheme of air circulation in the steam room

Such a device allows you to hold back warm air under the ceiling, and half-cooled air comes out through the hole located below (B), so it will be comfortable in the steam room. When the steam room needs to be thoroughly ventilated, the top vent (A) opens.

In addition to the steam room, ventilation is necessary in every room of the bath. In order not to waste precious heat in vain, you can make it possible to close the ventilation openings during those hours when there is no need for ventilation.

The canopy and all the furniture for the country bath can be made independently. If there is no desire to make something else, then the network has many offers for the sale of everything you need to give.

With a strong desire to save on furniture, you can review old stocks. Maybe there is something that needs to be repaired, but does not get around to it? After a little restoration, such furniture can last a long time. The main requirement is not to use chipboard furniture, as this material will deteriorate very quickly from high humidity.

Bath plan 6 × 7.2 m

6×6 m

5×4 m

4×4 m

3×5 m

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Sauna in the country with their own hands - photos, diagrams, drawings, video

Learn how to build a bathhouse in the country with your own hands. The article describes several types of baths that can be built in the country.

We build a bath in the country with our own hands

Bath in the country - one of the best places to relax Bath in the country - a real outlet after a hard day's work. It can also be an alternative to an ordinary holiday in the country with barbecue and soft drinks. But, besides, this is the best option to put yourself in order and have a good rest.

Many of us use the bath for different occasions. For some, this is a Sabbath day tradition, for others it is an occasion to gather a group of friends and brightly end a difficult week. But, despite the position, a bathhouse in the country is a real miracle, and that is why almost every summer resident simply dreams of such a structure.

You can build a bath in the country in several ways - by contacting specialists who offer a wide variety of projects, or on your own, trying to save money and get your hand on a new business. By by and large, for experienced summer residents who build verandas and terraces with their own hands, construct arbors and awnings, this is not so difficult, but if you take up construction for the first time, there may be serious problems. It is worth solving them in advance, having studied not only the options for baths, projects and construction methods, but also having studied the main stages of the construction process.

Choosing the type of building for the bath

Depending on the region, the cost of materials, as well as personal requirements, it is necessary to choose the main material of construction. It can be brick or wood as the most popular building materials.

The characteristics of baths made of wood or brick are also important, because the materials differ in qualities and properties, reliability and durability, and ease of use.

It often happens that a bath is built on the basis of an already finished building, in which a room is simply allocated for a steam room and a washing room. Then things are much easier. But it also happens that the construction takes place from scratch, and then we are faced with the task of studying absolutely all stages of construction - site selection, construction plan, general project and estimate, foundation and forcing walls, exterior and interior decoration, other works on arrangement and decor .

We are well aware that after reading our article it will be quite difficult to immediately pick up a hammer and in three days drive the bathhouse out to suburban area. But we will try to bring you as close as possible to the process and explain all its subtleties so that such work becomes much easier for you!

Choosing the best place for a bath

Thanks to communication with people who have built more than one bathhouse in their lives, and also continue to do this business, and now, we have learned many interesting facts which we share with you. So, initially we will talk about where it is best to build a bathhouse in a summer cottage:

You should not build a bath next to a reservoir, in close proximity to the water, as the building can be flooded with floods;
An excellent option is an extension to a residential building or any other building - saving materials and energy saving;
It is most correct to build a bathhouse in the backyard, where there are no drafts, in the silence of trees;
Be sure to think about waterproofing, vapor barrier and ventilation even at the initial stages of construction, because the bath tends to create unpleasant odors if built incorrectly or not provided with proper care;
Do not start construction near a road or field - dust in indoor wet areas is useless;
The south side is the most suitable for construction;
Think about fire safety, as the risk of unpleasant situations here is quite high;
If possible, start construction at a distance from the neighboring territory. So you will not observe envious or judgmental looks on yourself, and provoke scandals due to noisy rest or aromas of the bath;
Conduct construction in a place remote from the well or well, at least 15-20 m.

How to avoid building mistakes

No matter how colorful you plan the construction, or paint the future result, at the end you will not like something. This is a 100% guarantee, because there is no ideal in our world. But there is always an opportunity to minimize all the construction and decoration mistakes that lead to disappointment. Therefore, we recommend that you carefully consider the following:

Do not forget about the correct planning of internal areas. It is believed that a bath for 2-3 people should be about 10 m2;
The optimal height of the interior premises is 2-2.2 m. If it is lower, then it is quite inconvenient, if it is higher - irrational costs of heat carriers and a long warm-up time;
Try to place the doors in the bath on the south side, and the windows on the west or southwest;
It is desirable to make windows small, as, in principle, doors. If options are possible with windows, then it is advisable to make doors no more than 70 cm wide and no more than 180 cm high. You will also need a high threshold. Of course, this creates some inconvenience, but it seriously reduces heat loss;
Choose materials for construction not only according to aesthetic data, give preference lightweight materials with high energy saving ability;
Regardless of the materials of construction, pay maximum attention to safety and quality equipment;
Seriously approach the choice of wood for interior design, do not use resinous woods.

What to build a bath from

At the moment, there are many options among which it is worth choosing. But if you pay attention to the latest technology quick construction, then saving here will not work. Of course, a frame bath is being built in just a few days, but it will also cost a pretty penny. Therefore, it is worth looking for a more acceptable option, for many of us and in general, from used materials, for example, brick or cinder block. And why not, because such a building will easily serve for several decades ...

In fact, now you can build from anything, as long as the requirements and budget are met, as well as the characteristics of the future building are combined with your opinion about the new bath.

Bath in the country with their own hands

Unfortunately, not everyone has the opportunity to build a bath, and therefore many of our readers who decide on this process, will start it from intermediate stages, for example, from the finishing of an already finished building and interior spaces. Therefore, today we will not talk about how to build a bath from a bar or build frame bath, but simply consider the most acceptable option for everyone made of brick or cinder block.

We have previously discussed the stages of construction in a short list, but now it is necessary to consider each of them in detail!

Having correctly chosen a place for the site, having cleared it of debris and any overgrowth, a swarm of trenches for pouring the strip foundation. Of course, under a beam or a log, you can also use columnar foundation, but under a brick it is better to fill.

As in any standard summer cottage, when we talked about gazebos, sheds and other structures, you need to correctly calculate the parameters of the foundation. In addition, you need to create all the necessary layers of the pillow, from gravel and sand, choose a material for reinforcement, perhaps even fiberglass reinforcement.

When the trench for the foundation is ready, and reinforcement is installed inside, pour the concrete and let it settle for several days. Naturally, it is better to fill it higher, arranging the formwork 20-30 cm above the ground, so that you do not have to start laying in direct contact with the ground.

It is also worth taking care of waterproofing, which can be coated or made of roofing material, in the old fashioned way. Sometimes a film is also used, but it all depends strictly on the type of building.

Don't forget about engineering communications for a bath that can be brought inside before pouring the foundation or already in the process of laying the walls.

Walling

Depending on the material and type of masonry, you should choose a solution, as well as the speed of work. The thing is that the masonry cannot be done too quickly, as the brick can float and the work will stop. Therefore, we immediately determine whether we are building in brick or half-brick, or maybe in general, we choose cinder block or aerated concrete.

We start laying carefully, in accordance with the work plan and the project, we move up, constantly using the level and plumb lines. We do not forget about the placement of windows and doors, we cover the openings with posts, we make the jointing.

At the initial stage of masonry, you can also lay logs under the floor, work with communications.

Roof device

Once the exterior and interior walls have been kicked out, the quality of the work checked and you are ready to proceed, it is time to move on to the roof arrangement.

The first thing you need is to bring down the base of the roof into a single structure and install rafters on it, by the way, you can also ready-made. When this stage is completed, you can proceed to the device of the crate.

Depending on what kind of ceiling you installed in the bath, you should immediately think about the chimney for the stove. Perhaps the output will be through the wall, but do not forget about the possibility of output through the ceiling and the roof, which means that holes for the chimney will be needed.

After that, we move on to the roofing device, which we once talked about in some detail. Roofing materials can be very different, starting with the same slate, and ending with expensive tiles. But here we focus on weight, reliability, fire safety and many other fashionable and necessary factors today.

Finishing roofing works, we go down, because now you need to finish everything with the floor.

There are no problems with the floor, but there is a lot of controversy about its insulation. As we found out, it is also necessary to insulate the basement with inside to get the best energy saving performance and a really warm and dry floor.

To do this, on the basement part, on a brick or a raised foundation, we produce mineral wool insulation and waterproofing. Next, we fill the floor under the washing room, not forgetting about the water supply and sewage pipes, and dry fill the floor in the rest of the rooms. Expanded clay can be used for this.

Now it remains to lay a layer of insulation and vapor barrier, make a small gap, literally 1-2 cm, and lay the board.

Interior and exterior decoration

We will start with thermal insulation, since this stage is very important for a bath. Many are insulated from the outside, but why do we need to heat a cold brick if the same layer of insulation can be laid from the inside. Therefore, outside decorative trim or additional insulation with foam, and inside the mandatory insulation with mineral wool.

It is produced as follows - the walls are covered with waterproofing, applied wooden crate, then a layer is fixed on the surface mineral wool and vapor barrier. Most often, this is aluminum foil, on top of which the finishing takes place.

Now the ceilings. There should also not be any difficulties, since the process is identical to the insulation of bath walls. But the ceiling is also insulated in the attic, where fiberglass is laid between the beams. Expanded clay is poured on top or mineral wool is laid, a layer of vapor barrier and rough finish. A cement screed is also possible, depending on the floor production technology.

The interior decoration of the bath rooms is made with clapboard, the exterior - with any material, the design of which is most interesting to you. It can be siding, plastering and painting, composite materials, facing brick and so on.

During the finishing, it is necessary to install the stove, make a safe exit of the chimney, seal all openings on the outlets as much as possible. We will talk more about sauna stoves in the future!

Installation of windows and doors

This stage will not be a difficult test for you, since we have already told you how to install windows in the country, and we have mentioned doors more than once. Try only to choose high-quality materials and install correctly, because the energy saving of the interior depends on this.

You can choose wooden or metal-plastic doors and windows, order glass doors to the sauna, but you yourself understand that it is in wood that everything will be most natural and warm!

Arrangement of a country bath

We do not undertake to decide for you, since harmony and compliance with your taste in this matter is above all, and you can create such an effect only on your own. Therefore, try to approach the design correctly, furnish the rest room, supply the bath with everything you need - decor and accessories. We recommend that you learn about the budget option for a summer cottage.

Do not forget that the bath needs light. Here we recommend that you contact a qualified electrician who will wire and install in accordance with all requirements of wet rooms. You can also call a plumber to check your own work, because the supply of water to the bath and sewerage are no less important!

Each stage of the construction of a bath in the country is complicated in its own way. Naturally, you can re-read a lot of interesting articles, watch tutorials, or contact specialists directly for minimal help. But here you must understand that only a personal desire will allow you to start and complete the project. If this is just an idea that seems simple and feasible to you in a couple of days, it is better not to take on the process. Save your energy, time and money, draw up an accurate and correct project, and only then get to work. Well, when you have any questions on this topic, DachaDecor.ru specialists will be happy to answer them. We recommend learning how to choose a stove for a bath.

We build a bath in the country with our own hands

Bath in the country - a real outlet after a hard day's work. It can also be an alternative to an ordinary holiday in the country with barbecue and soft drinks. But, besides, this is the best option to put yourself in order and have a good rest.

What could be more pleasant than after the work done at the summer cottage, take a steam bath in your own bathhouse, wash off the dirt and relax your body and soul? Of course, a chic bathhouse with a pool in the country is a luxury that is unaffordable for many, so you should take a closer look at the projects of small structures and build what you like with your own hands, investing a minimum of funds and getting the maximum benefit and pleasure.

A small bath can be built according to frame technology, lay out from foam / gas / cinder blocks, bricks, lay down a log house from a log or timber. The most environmentally friendly material is wood, but bricks and blocks are more durable, reliable and fireproof.

Table. Comparative table of prices for materials for the construction of bath walls

Brand/Model/Type/Grade	Size/section, mm	Price in rubles
M150	25012065	RUB 16.90 per piece (pallet 240 pieces)
First grade	1001006000	The price for 1 m3 is from 5500 to 6700 rubles.
First grade	1501506000	5500-6900 rub. for 1 cubic meter.
First grade	401006000	7500 rub. per 1 m3
2.3 grade	401506000	5500 rub. per 1 m3
-	912502500	548
-	1212502500	802
-	6025050	40 rub. per piece (133 pieces in one cubic meter)

Prices for foam blocks

foam block

Economy bath project

After reviewing the prices of materials, you can see that it is more profitable to build a bath from blocks or Canadian technology. Moreover, the latter will be more profitable if part of the materials used is used or low-grade (for example, instead of edged board you can apply unedged, adding color to the country bath). More accurate data on the consumption of materials can be obtained after the preparation of the project and estimates.

It is extremely important to think over the design of the bath before starting construction, calculate the amount of materials, note all sizes and at the same time plan not only the location of the premises, but also the furniture in them.

Device shelf in the steam room Bath size selection

The main room in any, even the smallest bath is a steam room. There are necessarily shelves in two or three floors and a heater. Even if the summer cottage is small, and it is planned to install a very modest bathhouse, the steam room cannot be made with an area of \u200b\u200b3-4 square meters based on the simultaneous stay of two people (it should be convenient for visitors to bathe with brooms, sit and lie on the shelves in full growth). Such norms are due to safety considerations (in a very close steam room it is easy to get burned on a red-hot stove or scald the skin with hot steam).

Also, if the entire stove is completely located in the steam room and fuel is loaded from the same room, it is worth increasing the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe room by another 1-2 meters so that it is convenient to store and throw firewood into the furnace. Directly in front of the stove, a pre-furnace sheet measuring 1x1 m is necessarily laid, which is also noted on the plan of the future bath.

The bath certainly provides for water procedures, respectively, you should think about a small shower located in a separate room or adjacent to the steam room. The second option, when the steam room and the washing room are combined, allows you to save space and reduce the cost of installing sewer drains and interior partitions.

The last important room in the bath is the dressing room or dressing room. There should fit benches and hangers for visitors, a cabinet for bath accessories, perhaps a small table. It is also possible and preferable that the heater is located in the steam room, and the loading door goes into the dressing room, which saves on heating.

In the economy bath, you can do without:

plumbing system. But you will have to equip a stove with a tank and bring water in buckets by hand;
separate bathroom. These amenities can be taken out to the street or to a country house, if the bath in the country house will be used only in warm time of the year.

But you can’t do without electricity and sewage, so it’s advisable to order or build a septic tank / cesspool / drainage pit, as well as stretch a power line to the construction site of the bathhouse, because bathing by candlelight is very inconvenient.

Be sure to indicate on the plan:

dimensions of the building and each room separately;
ceiling height and overall height of the bath;
the location of the furnace;
the sides to which the doors will open, including the furnace;
the location of the windows (in the steam room, the window is located at a height of 185 to 195 cm from the floor and not above the shelf);
the location of the socket and switch, shield and lamps (products with a moisture protection level above IP54 are used only).

Below are several projects of small one-story country baths.

Video - Designing a bath

Video - Bath project. Drafting

Construction of a small frame economy bath in the country

Let's start with the base of the bath - the foundation. Since the bath will be small and relatively light, it will not be necessary to fill in a monolithic slab or make a recessed reinforced tape. For a one-story bath, a columnar foundation of blocks or asbestos pipes with concrete poured into them is sufficient.

Stage 1. Markup

This stage is mandatory for any type of construction. We choose a place on the site where the bath will stand.

We take 4 pegs and a plumb line. Strictly vertically we drive the first stake into the soil, that is, we mark the first corner of the house. From this point we postpone the length of one of the walls, we hammer in the second stake. We tie both pegs with a cord.

Similarly, we put the third stake and the fourth. We check the equality of the marking diagonals, if necessary, we correct the stakes and the cord.

We also mark with a cord the places where the interior partitions will be located.

We arm ourselves with a shovel and remove the top layer of soil along with the grass inside the cast-off. Align the bottom of the resulting base horizontally, ram it.

Video - Marking the foundation

Stage 2. Foundation

Consider the option of arranging a columnar foundation made of concrete blocks measuring 20 * 20 * 40 cm. Their price ranges from 45 to 60 rubles per 1 piece. You can use ordinary bricks (13-16 rubles apiece), including used ones.

We take a drill or a shovel and start digging holes measuring 50x50 cm for blocks or 35x35 cm for bricks. The distance between the holes is no more than 2 m, the depth of each is about half a meter. Holes should be located at the corners of the house, under bearing walls and interior partitions.

We ram the bottom of each hole, fill it with a layer of sand, crushed stone (each layer is up to 10 cm) and repeat the compaction process again.

Crushed stone is poured with liquid cement milk. We stick one steel bar strictly vertically into the center of each hole.

We lay out bricks or blocks around the bar, 2 pcs. in every row.

The posts should rise 20-30 cm above the ground. We check the horizontalness of the entire base by pulling the rope and using a bubble level. If necessary, we compensate for irregularities with a layer of cement mortar.

We cover each column with a piece of roofing material.

Stage 3. Economy bath frame

For the frame, you can use a beam of 100 * 100 cm or 150 * 150 cm. You should not save on load-bearing elements. It is also desirable to impregnate the wood with a fire-retardant composition.

The lower harness consists of 4 bars.

Connecting corners using the “paw” or “half-tree” method.

Connecting the bottom rails

We cut the threads on the reinforcing bars sticking out of the corner posts (the pins on the intermediate posts can be cut down). At the ends of the bars, we drill holes for these pins. We cut the ends of the bars according to the above scheme.

We assemble the lower harness by putting the bars on the pins. Tighten the nuts and locknuts from above.

Between the vertical beams we nail or fasten with self-tapping screws horizontal jumpers from a bar 50x50 mm. We strengthen the corner posts with jibs from a board 50x100 mm.

It remains to make the upper harness. To do this, we use a board 50 mm thick, which we fasten to the ends of the vertical beams with long wood screws.

Prices for wooden beams

wooden bars

Stage 4. Sex

Consider an example of arranging a non-leaking floor in a bath. In order not to waste time cutting lumber, we take fixing perforated corners, self-tapping screws and assemble the floor logs. We put boards 50x100 cm between the bars of the lower trim on the edge, maintain a distance between the lags of 40-45 cm.

Assembling the floor from the board in the “on edge” position for greater rigidity

Floor logs can be covered with OSB-3 sheets (approximately 480-550 rubles per sheet 1250x2500 mm and 9 mm thick) or use the same wooden boards from which the logs are made. V draft floor it is necessary to provide a hole for mounting a drain ladder from a washing or steam room.

Be sure to stretch Isospan or another vapor barrier film under the wooden subfloor.

To insulate the floor, we again fix the logs on top of the subfloor, between which we lay expanded clay, sawdust or red moss, cover the entire “pie” with a waterproofing film and assemble the finished floor from boards or moisture-resistant plywood (from 260 rubles for a sheet of 4 grades measuring 1525x1525 mm and 4 mm thick). The use of polystyrene as a heater, including packaging, is possible only in the dressing room.

Prices for Izospan

Stage 5. Roof

Before making a roof, we assemble the upper ceiling (ceiling). We use the same fasteners and boards that were used when installing the floor log.

It is better to make a gable roof for a frame economy bath. It will make the bath more attractive in appearance, and the space under the roof will be easily converted into a sleeping place or a warehouse for brooms. On the other hand, a single-slope structure will require fewer materials.

Templates for cutting rafters, racks, floor log

Table. Types of roofs, schemes

Roof type, illustration	Advantages	Description
flat or sloping	Saving materials, ease of assembly, the ability to operate the roof.	For baths up to 6 meters wide, it is permissible to organize flat roofs with a slope of 10-25 degrees and inclined rafters. The overlap is organized from coniferous bars from 100x100 to 150x200 mm. Laying step from 40 cm to 1 m. On top of the beams, a continuous crate without gaps is assembled from an edged board or OSB, then a crate is mounted for insulation - expanded clay with a layer of 10 cm or more, mineral wool or expanded polystyrene. Several layers of roofing felt or other moisture-proof material are laid on top of the insulation. The roof itself can be organized from a profiled sheet, boards treated with an antiseptic, etc.
Gable. Suitable for saunas >12 sq.m.	The possibility of using the attic for household purposes or for overnight stays. The roof is stable and durable	The angle of inclination of the roof is selected from 30 to 45 degrees, depending on the type of terrain. To install such a roof, the upper harness and Mauerlat must be made of timber. Rafter trusses are isosceles triangles with a jumper between the ribs (crossbar). The rafters rest on the Mauerlat and can hang down a maximum of half a meter. The rafters are sawn according to a pattern, assembled into trusses using metal fasteners and long self-tapping screws. The last trusses on the gables are attached first, then with an interval of up to one and a half meters - the rest of the rafters. On top of the rafters, a lath or board is stuffed, a vapor barrier is pulled, after which the roofing material, for example, a profiled sheet, is fixed.

Video - Roof Construction

Stage 6. Interior and exterior decoration

Table. A brief description of the stages of insulation, insulation and finishing of an economy bath

Work order	Scheme	Description
		Styrofoam will provide the walls of the bath with additional rigidity and retain heat. For installation we use mounting foam and PSB-S-15. We cut out pieces of foam according to the distance between the racks of the frame, insert the foam between them, foam the slots. It is recommended to cut out the foam 0.5-1 cm larger than the existing openings in order to avoid gaps.
		We use slats 2x5 cm. We fasten them horizontally. Fixation is carried out with wood screws. The distance between the rails is taken equal to the width of the insulation.
		Between the laths of the crate we lay mineral wool slabs. We stretch a polypropylene cord over the mats, fix it with small carnations or a stapler.
		WITH outside the bath can be upholstered with OSB-3 sheets, which are subsequently plastered or painted. Also an acceptable option would be finishing with unedged boards or siding.
		On the outside of the bath, under a layer of finishing material, we overlap a windproof film (glassine can be used). From the inside, we stretch foil vapor barrier with a thickness of 80 microns on the walls and ceiling. We fix the overlaps of the strips with metallic tape.
Inner lining		The traditional material for interior decoration is lining. Economy option - aspen. It is better not to use pine lining in the steam room. In the dressing room, it is permissible to sheathe the walls with PVC panels or moisture-resistant drywall, and then paint.
Outer skin		Many are used as external cladding. interesting materials, for example, shingle or shingles. These are thin wooden boards that are fastened with nails to the walls, and the rows are fixed with a slight overlap (top to bottom). An environmentally friendly and economical solution.

Stage 7. Ventilation

Economy bath - for sure the room is compact, but this does not exclude the need for ventilation.

The air inlet hole is traditionally arranged near the heater, closer to the floor, and the installation of the ventilation valve is carried out simultaneously with the insulation and wall decoration. Air flow from the supply ventilation duct must fall on the heating element of the oven. It is especially important to equip effective ventilation if the firebox door does not go into the dressing room, but into the steam room.

The exhaust vent should be closer to the ceiling. The hood must be equipped with a damper. The air outlet is organized according to ventilation pipe on the roof, the head of the pipe is closed with an insect net.

Natural ventilation can be organized through a small window located at a height of 185 cm above the floor. Ventilation will take place with the windows and doors of the premises open.

Video - Ventilation in the bath

Prices for bath fans

bath fan

Stage 8. Sauna equipment

Having assembled a bath with your own hands, make a metal stove with a heat exchanger and an external water tank. The main thing is to lay asbestos cardboard on the floor and wall behind the stove during installation, close it steel sheet to prevent spontaneous combustion of wooden surfaces.

Calculation of the load on the floor and rafters for a single metal furnace it is not necessary to do it, the construction of the floor from a log of 150x50 mm in increments of 45-50 cm and a floorboard 5 cm thick will perfectly withstand the heater.

Wiring in the bath is laid either before finishing walls (hidden type), or after (external). Lamps and sockets are purchased and installed strictly waterproof, class above IP 54. It is required to install a separate electrical panel and protect all cables from moisture.

Prices for asbestos cardboard

asbestos cardboard

Other interesting projects of economy baths

A very unusual, but no less comfortable barrel bath is a cylindrical wooden structure on two supports, inside divided into 2-3 compartments, the farthest of which is a steam room. The bath is mobile, takes up little space, economical and economical (it takes very little fuel to heat a small steam room).

Turnkey barrel baths cost from 35 to 220 thousand rubles. In practice, to assemble such a bath on your own, it takes half as much money and not much time and effort at all.

The assembly and disassembly of the bath is possible due to the used boards 45x90 or 50x90 mm with a tenon-groove connection. The length of the barrel, depending on the boards used, is 2.5-5 meters. The fixation of the structure is carried out with metal hoops-screeds. Additionally, the bath can be equipped with a porch, a roof, a visor.

The water in the bath-barrel is discharged through the holes in the floor. If you plan to install such a bath in the country, it is worth removing the layer of soil, filling it with rubble, ramming it, and installing the bath itself on a pair of stable massive concrete blocks. Furnace installation rules, electrical wiring are standard for any type wooden baths including economy class.

A small do-it-yourself bath is a great option when the area near the house or in the yard of the cottage is limited. In addition, with such a solution, you can significantly save the budget, but as a result you get full place rest, which will not only allow you to relieve stress after a hard day, but improve your health and have a good time with family and friends.

Project examples

Ideally, the bath includes 4 rooms in its design:

dressing room;
restroom;
washing;

You can expand the functionality of some rooms by combining them with each other. At the same time, the comfort of the stay is not lost. Overall size buildings will largely depend on how many people will be inside at the same time.

1.20 mx2.50 m Very compact solution. In this case, the bath consists of only two rooms: a steam room and a dressing room. The dimensions of the first are 1.20 m × 1.50 m, the second - 1 m × 1.20 m. There is no rest room, and you can change clothes in the dressing room. Washing can be combined with a steam room. This size will be enough for one person.
2.50 m × 2.50 m. By the number of rooms - like the first option. The size of the steam room is 2.50 m × 1.50 m, the dressing room is 1 m × 2.50 m. At the same time, it will be possible to organize additional space for storing firewood. In such conditions, two people can easily fit.
3 m × 3 m. This option can be planned in different ways. If there is a desire that three people fit in the steam room, then it can be made 3 m × 1.50 m in size, the washing room can be made separate by putting a shower stall there. The size of this room will be 1 m × 1.50 m. There is also a dressing room 2 m × 1.5 m. You can combine a washing room and a steam room, then there remains a space that can be used as a rest room, which will also serve as a dressing room.
4 m × 3 m. In this case, 4 m 2 can be separated for the steam room (for example, 2 m × 2 m). The washing room will occupy 1 m × 1.50 m, 2 m × 3 m remains for the rest room. In such conditions, four people can easily fit. They will be able to stay in the steam room at the same time, as well as enjoy communication in the dressing room.
4 m × 4 m. In such a territory it is already possible to turn around well. The steam room can be left 2 m × 2 m in size. Make a separate dressing room 2 m × 1.50 m in size. In this case, the relaxation room is 4 m × 2 m (one of the sides will be 2.50 m). The washing room can be combined with a rest room, for this an electric boiler and a shower cubicle are installed. They can be placed in one of the corners of the room, which does not take up much space.

These are indicative examples. You can easily vary the size of the rooms within the available limits. You may want to make the steam room smaller, as there is no need for 4 people to be there at the same time. At the same time, it will be possible to expand the space of the rest room.

Note! All measurements are given in ideal values without taking into account the thickness of the partitions. This was done for greater clarity. In the case when the bath is adjacent to the house, then it can be made in the form of one steam room. At the same time, the bathroom will act as a washing room, and the rest of the territory is available for relaxation.

Choosing a material

Various materials can be used to build walls. Much will depend on which project you have chosen, as well as the planned amount of money. For example, you can use ordinary brick. How to build a brick bath, you can read. In this case, the following points will be positive:

availability;
ease of delivery;
relative ease of construction;
long service life (with proper care- up to 150 years);
ease of maintenance;
the possibility of combining with the main structure;
when using a new brick, there is no need for cladding;
freedom to choose the form of construction.

The negative aspects include:

the high cost of the material;
the need for good ventilation, tk. brick has poor vapor conductivity;
kindling such a bath takes more time than wooden buildings;
high costs for interior decoration.

Along with brick, foam block is often used. This is a more progressive material; it has properties characteristic only of it:

light weight with large size;
high laying speed;
ease of fitting block shapes;
good thermal insulation;
relatively low price;
excellent sound insulation;
environmental friendliness;
subject to the recommendations - a small consumption of glue.

There is also a fly in the ointment:

uneven pores can be a problem when hanging furniture;
shrinkage may occur within a few months;
poor bending stability.

The most favorite way of manufacturing is rounded logs. There is a lot to be said about its benefits, here are just a few:

high environmental friendliness;
pleasant appearance;
low heat capacity;
no need for interior and exterior decoration;
nice interior atmosphere.

The negative side is:

unprofitable to use in small buildings;
some complexity of construction;
the high cost of the material;
long shrinkage time.

One of the cheapest and fastest options is the construction of a frame structure. This method will require minimal building skills. The advantages are:

no need for a massive foundation;
availability of materials;
relatively low cost compared to other options;
ease of care;
very fast heating of the steam room with good insulation;
ease of laying communications;
seismic resistance;
no shrinkage.

Of the minuses, one can note the need for good sound insulation. A high level of boominess is the transmission of various vibrations, which can cause inconvenience. It is also important to take care of good ventilation so that moisture does not accumulate inside, which will lead to the development of fungus and mold.

Strip foundation

In the case when a really small bath is planned, it makes no sense to sink the foundation to the level of soil freezing. This will only increase the overall cost of the project. With proper manufacturing and waterproofing, you don’t have to worry about the walls being cold. This type of foundation will be relevant for any of the listed building options.

At the stage of laying the foundation, the necessary communications are provided. This may be a water supply and a sewer drain for water from a washing.

Note! If you know that soils in your area are highly mobile, then an unburied foundation is a poor option, as it can easily collapse under the pressure of the layers. In this case, it is better to evaluate the possibility of installing piles.

pile foundation

There are several ways to build a foundation. Piles can be bored and driven. In the first case, a well is drilled, formwork is made, reinforcing rods are lowered, and the entire space is poured with concrete. In the second option, ready-made concrete, wooden or metal posts with a pointed end are immediately clogged. The most suitable options for a small bath will be screw. They consist of a metal base in the form of a pipe and blades, which contribute to the immersion of the supports into the ground. You can buy them or make your own. If you chose the second option, then you need to act like this:

In each of the options described, separate support elements for the stove should also be provided, especially if you plan to use a heater. This is very important, because its weight can be large, which can damage the floor and lag.

Note! Such a foundation will ideal solution for frame structures, log buildings, as well as small foam block baths. If the soil in the area where construction is planned is sufficiently strong and rocky, then something in between pile and strip foundation- columnar. In this case, individual pits with a size of 50 × 50 cm are dug out every meter to a level below the freezing of the soil. A formwork, a metal crate is installed inside and a solution is poured.

Building brick walls

For a bath, it is better to use a red brick that has passed heat treatment and has a lower thermal capacity. To calculate the amount required material, you need to calculate the area of \u200b\u200beach wall. To do this, the width is multiplied by the length. Then you need to divide this number by the area of \u200b\u200bone brick. The area of the masonry seams can be neglected, because you still need to make a reserve in case of a fight or marriage.

The wall can be built using several methods:

in two bricks with external insulation.
with air gaps, they are about 6 cm;
with a layer of insulation between two rows of bricks.

Work begins with the construction of corners. This is an important process because it is they who will subsequently ensure the correctness of the entire structure. To maintain the vertical level of future walls, two metal profiles 5 × 5 cm and a length equal to the height of the future walls are dug in at the corners. They are leveled and secured with braces. Between them, a fishing line is stretched to the height of one row. After it is laid, the fishing line is rearranged to the height of the next one. The thickness of the seam should be about 20–25 mm. It must be applied at a distance of no more than a meter so that it does not have time to dry. Additionally, the plane is checked using bubble level. If the second and third type of masonry is chosen, then it is necessary to provide a dressing between the two walls. This is ensured by the transverse laying of two bricks opposite each other at certain intervals. Also, each row should go with an offset of half a brick, so that the overall weave of the entire plane is ensured.

A lintel must be installed above windows or doorways. Usually it is reinforced concrete. You can buy it ready-made or fill it directly on the spot. It should go beyond the openings by at least 25 cm. Supports are installed, a wooden board is mounted on them. Two rows of bricks are laid out on edge. Between them are reinforcement bars, which should also go beyond the opening by 25 cm, while it is better to bend them in order to intertwine with existing masonry. Concrete is poured inside. After complete solidification (usually 10-12 days), the lower supports can be dismantled and the logs removed.

Walls made of foam blocks

The general principle of laying will be the same as in the previous case. You should also start from the corners, which must be accurately and clearly set.

In the same way, guides are made of profiled pipes. But there are some nuances:

In order to achieve the best adhesion, the row-base is laid on cement mortar. The ratio with sand is better to make 1:3. It is very important to maintain a horizontal plane so that all other rows also lie correctly.
All other rows are fixed with special glue.
The thickness of the adhesive layer should not exceed 5 mm. Only in this case will it be possible to achieve ideal thermal insulation.
Every 3 rows, a metal mesh is placed in the seam, which serves to give additional rigidity.
Foam blocks are placed on the edge.
Lintels over doors and windows are made in the same way as in the case of brickwork.

Log walls

It is this option that pops up in the imagination when it comes to the bath. For its manufacture, you will need to stock up on rounded or profiled logs. It is better to make from this material outer wall. Because the design is small, it is good if the partitions are frame.

After the construction of the walls is completed, the primary caulking is performed. During which the hanging insulation is simply hammered into the joints. Complete shrinkage of the building can last more than 1.5 years.

Frame walls

After the foundation has been erected, an additional foundation is made for such a structure. It is performed according to the example of the grillage, which was mentioned above. For the corner posts, we need exactly the same beam as for the base. In addition, it will be necessary to stock up on an edged board with a length equal to the height of the future walls, a width equal to the width of the grillage and a thickness of 5–10 cm.

Roof erection

For small buildings, a pitched roof is the ideal solution. It is necessary to plan its production at the design stage. It is very important to be able to raise one wall higher than the other. When this is done, then in the case of a wall of brick and foam block, waterproofing from bikrost or roofing material is laid on the upper end. Additional beams are mounted on it, which will serve as a Mauerlat. They are attached to the base with anchor bolts or immured studs. Beams are laid on top, on which the crate will be stuffed. They can be fixed to the Mauerlat using metal corners.

In another version, the walls are made the same. Ceiling beams are laid on the Mauerlat. On one side, vertical boards are installed that will form a pediment, rafter legs are lowered from them to another wall. At the junction with the Mauerlat, they are cut to the required angle. Fastened with metal corners. To make it easier to support the roof in one plane, two extreme elements are first installed. A string is stretched between them, which will serve as a level.

The ceiling must be insulated. A vapor barrier is attached to the ceiling beams from above. In this role, dense foil can act. Insulation in the form of mineral wool is placed in the space between the beams. Additionally, it is covered with plastic wrap. From the inside, filing is done using a wooden lining or a polished edged board. Read more about the insulation of the ceiling in the bath.

Note! For a house from a bar when fastening rafter legs it is better to use floating corners for Mauerlat. This is necessary so that during shrinkage the roof does not skew.

finish line

An integral part of each bath is a stove. It can be made independently from sheet material or metal pipe large diameter. In another version, it is laid out of brick, but in this case it may take large space. For a small space, it is better to use electric options that are purchased ready-made.

Shelves are mounted inside the steam room. For him, it is better not to use coniferous wood, because. when heated, it may release resin, which will cause burns. A good material for it would be aspen, larch, linden or oak. With a small space, a width of 40 cm will suffice, it is more convenient when there is a footrest. The fixing material must be recessed flush so as not to burn the skin (it must also be made of stainless material). It is better if the whole structure is assembled on dowels.

For wiring, a double-braided cable must be used. It is better if it is non-flammable (usually there is a prefix “ng” in the marking). Be sure to lay the conductor in the corrugation. Switches are not mounted in the steam room itself. Luminaires are used waterproof with index IP68.

Take care of good ventilation. To do this, you can install an adjustable supply valve, as well as anemostats with an outlet to the gable through the roof. This will be enough for all the moisture to be removed after taking a steam bath.

As you can see, there are no restrictions on what you can build a small bath from. Choose the option that best suits you.

Scheme

Frame-panel bath with a porch

Almost every owner of his own house dreams of a bath. And even if you are not going to build a bath with your own hands, then you need to at least understand the variety of bath projects and their little secrets.

Did you know that before building a bath, it is important to orient it to the cardinal points? Usually the door to the bath is located on the south side - in winter the snow melts there earlier and you do not have to often clear it. But it is better to place the windows in the west - in the evening they will have more light, because we usually go to the bathhouse in the evenings.

The bath is built of wood, brick, natural stone or concrete structures. The advantage of wooden baths is that they perfectly keep heat and are built from environmentally friendly material - spruce or pine. For a bath, from a wooden beam, additional ventilation is not required. The tree "breathes" perfectly, it is enough to install a ventilation grill.

For the construction of the log cabin of the bath, a winter forest is used - it is denser and less prone to decay. Do not rush to start a bath when the log house is ready - it should settle for a year, and only then you can start finishing work.

At the initial stage of construction, it is necessary to resolve the issue of choosing a place such as a bath. It can be erected as a freestanding structure or attached to a house or other residential building.

Many believe that combining a bathhouse and a home can add dampness and bad smell in the House. But, if proper waterproofing, ventilation and sewerage are laid in the bath, then the above-mentioned problems should not be.

On the other hand, a bathhouse made as a separate building is more fireproof, and a small veranda near the bathhouse can completely replace a garden gazebo for you.

A very important point in the construction of a bath is laying the foundation. The foundation can be tape, columnar or pile. For the construction of a bath with your own hands, a columnar foundation is considered the best, which consists of concrete piles exposed to a depth of about 1.5 meters. Such a foundation is made of stone, brick or concrete.

To finish the bath inside, it is better to use material from such tree species as poplar, alder or aspen, as they have high moisture resistance and low thermal conductivity. We recommend making floors also from wood, since it heats up slightly. But the tree has a tendency to rot, so it is better to make a collapsible floor and ventilate and dry it in the sun at least once a year.

Shelves in the bath may not be very big size. The main thing is that they can sit freely or lie comfortably. The size of the steam room should be about 6 square meters. m. - so you don’t need a lot of firewood for warming up, and not crowded. In a proper Russian bath, the air temperature is about 60 degrees, and the humidity is 40%. Compare with the Finnish sauna, where the temperature is 90 degrees and the humidity is 10%.

For building a bath with your own hands, an important point is the choice of a stove for heating the steam room. The “lightness” of steam depends on the type of furnace. A brick oven warms up longer, and should stand for about an hour - but the steam is perfect, light. The iron stove warms up quickly, does not threaten with waste, but the steam is harder.

The furnace must be installed on the foundation. In no case should it touch the walls of the bath. Consider the fact that the stove must be positioned so that all the rooms of the bath are heated at once. To date, stoves with an elongated firebox are very popular. Such stoves allow you to heat in the steam room from the dressing room. A good stove evenly distributes heat throughout the bath.

The layout of the bath includes three main rooms: a steam room, a shower room and a relaxation room.

In addition to these rooms, a bathhouse may include a small outdoor pool, because a bathhouse is not only steam and heat, but also hardening on fresh air. After all, after the steam room, it is necessary to close the pores - and cold water from an external reservoir can best cope with this.

If you do not have the opportunity to build a bath from logs, you can choose another construction option from the so-called "wooden bricks".

With such construction, wooden chocks are laid in cement mortar like bricks.

So you will not only save on the construction of a bath, but also get a more fireproof option.

Such a bath looks quite decent inside, and, in addition, in this way you can easily build a so rarely seen tent bath.

The layout of the bath will allow you to carefully consider the required functionality from your bath and more accurately predict your costs and labor costs.

Bath layout 1.

Bath layout 2.

Bath layout 3.

Bath layout 4.

Bath layout 5.

A bathhouse is not an easy place, since ancient times a bathhouse has been rightfully considered a real healer - “In the bathhouse, wash yourself and be born again!” But the bathhouse has its own legends. So in the days of paganism, the Slavs, having heated the baths well and laid out clean clothes there, tightly closed them and left. It was a time when the dead ancestors were soaring.

In early Christian times, the bath was considered a suspicious place. It was forbidden to hang icons in the bath and bring bath utensils into the house. After the bath, a person had to douse himself with cold water or plunge into the river - in order to drive away evil spirits from himself. After visiting the bath, it was impossible to go to church, it was a sin to wash on Orthodox holidays, as well as on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday. Thus, Saturday became a bathing day.

The spirit of the bath - a bathhouse, demanded respect and forbade entering the bath after dark, and taking a bath drunk. It was a big misdemeanor to rush a person steaming in a bath or leave a child unattended in a bath - they could be dragged away by the bath spirit.

If you are going to build a bathhouse in your summer cottage, we hope that our little tips came in handy. And the old traditions that we told you about will help you not only enjoy visiting the bath, but also be extremely careful next to the hot stove and steam.
After all, a do-it-yourself bath is a fascinating and useful thing, you may be interested in getting acquainted with modern bath options in our video:

Small baths for summer cottages - some interesting projects for self-construction

Bath is one of the main buildings on the modern personal plot. Here you can relax and take a break from household and garden work, while improving your health. However, in order to bath building functioned correctly, when building it, you should take into account whole line nuances.

Traditional bath includes several functional premises, however, due to the territorial limitations of personal plots, home craftsmen strive to minimize the dimensions of the structure. Sometimes this reduces the area of \u200b\u200bthe premises, and in some cases one of them has to be completely abandoned.

This article provides some helpful tips for design and construction of small bath facilities.

Features of bath buildings

Traditional Russian bath was made from wood. However, today such structures can be built from any building blocks.

Perfectly bath building should include the following areas:

dressing room. This ordinary hallway or a locker room, in which there is a closet where the clothes of bath visitors are hung, as well as a place to store fuel.
Restroom- usually the largest room in the bath, where there is a table at which you can have tea parties and have conversations with friends.
Washing where a container with water is located for receiving cooling procedures.
steam room — the main place in the bath, where stove stove installed heating the air in the steam room.

Unfortunately, due to space savings, such a set of rooms is not present in every bath, which will be discussed below.

Reasons for building a small bath

Nowadays small bathhouse can be built for several reasons:

Lack of free space.
Low price, because the costs for small-sized construction will be much less.
For practical reasons. The smaller the building, the lighter it is and puts less pressure on the foundation, respectively, it is easier to maintain it in proper form. Yes, and a lonely person or a small family simply does not need to build a whole tower to receive bath procedures.

About the distribution of space in small baths

If your goal is small bath in the country with their own hands, then to save space you should heed these tips:

dressing room and rest room most often combined into one large room. Naturally, if it is not planned to operate the bath by several people at once, then it is better to make the rest room a small, cozy room, putting a table for four people and four stools here.

Advice! Should be used exclusively simple wooden furniture . Upholstered furniture, covered with leather or fabric for such premises is not suitable, because constant humidity will have an extremely negative effect on the appearance of such upholstery.

You also need to decide from which room the fuel will be loaded into the furnace.

Often the oven is loaded from the rest room, because:

It is more convenient to store firewood here, in which case they do not need to be brought into the steam room.
Despite the small size of the steam room, it will be inconvenient to load fuel from this room.

One wall has a place for storing firewood, a stove door and a door to the steam room.
On the opposite wall we have a wardrobe and a table with chairs.

Advice! The interior of the rest room should be as simple as possible. Before decorating it with various items, think about whether they are suitable for this room. Skins and stuffed animals are obviously a bad choice.

If you plan to build a very small bath (for example, 3 by 3 meters), then you can completely refuse the rest room.

In this case, you must do the following:

At the entrance there is a small hallway, which fits a cupboard and a place to store fuel.
Fuel loading is carried out in the steam room.
The interior consists of three rooms: an entrance hall, a sink and a steam room.

Calculation of space for bath rooms

Wishing build a small bathroom, it is very important not to overdo it, because space saving considerations should not be higher than the functionality of the room.

The volume of the rest room should be calculated taking into account the fact that each visitor has 2-3 square meters of area.
The area of the washing room is calculated similarly to the rest room.
The steam room can be closer, one and a half to two square meters per person will be enough here.

It is desirable that in each of the rooms there is one small window. This will save you energy costs when taking bath procedures during the daytime.

Advice! Windows should be located at a height above the height of the average person, that is, at a distance of 185-190 cm from the floor.

Construction planning- a very important stage, since it is during the development of the plan that further comfort from using the bath is determined. Therefore, making project of a small bath for a summer residence, you should compare all the pros and cons as much as possible in order to get the most functional structure.

Small baths to give a photo