Frame bath how to start doing. Do-it-yourself frame bath: tips and tricks from professionals

The technology for building such a bath is simple., you can cope without special equipment and deep knowledge in construction. For work you will need wooden bars and boards for the frame, materials for heat, steam and waterproofing. First, a bath plan is developed and drawings are created, the type of foundation is selected, materials for hydro and thermal insulation, for interior and exterior decoration of the frame bath.

Video on how to build a frame-panel bath with your own hands.

Frame bath device

The feature of this design is ease. This must be taken into account at all stages of construction. The construction does not require complex work on the construction of the foundation, but you need to carefully calculate the load of the roof and choose light roofing materials.

Foundation for a frame bath

The structure is light, so a pile foundation will suffice. If the soils are puffy, then it is better to prefer the tape version. To build a pile foundation, piles are first installed, a basement beam is laid on them using the “half-tree” or “paw” technology. Don't forget to check horizontality. For waterproofing, a layer of roofing material is laid on top.

If the soil is heaving, then it is better to build strip base:

On the site for the bath, dig a trench and fill it with sand to ground level, remembering to constantly tamp and water it in order to avoid shrinkage of the material in the future.
Place a formwork 50 cm high. Place metal pipes in the base to strengthen the structure.
When the formwork is ready, pour concrete in layers, after the last layer has dried, lay roofing material on top.

When the foundation is created, proceed to the next step.

Video about building a foundation for a frame bath with your own hands.

Bath frame construction

We build a frame bath with our own hands. This construction phase begins with installation of vertical racks. If there are no partitions in the bath, then four racks in the corners are enough. But if there are several rooms, you need to calculate the intermediate racks. They are made from beams with a cross section of at least 12x12 cm. To connect the racks, make the upper and lower trims.

At this stage, there is no need to rush, the main thing is to monitor the level and install the racks strictly vertically, otherwise the design of the bath will turn out to be skewed.

Finishing

When the frame of the bath is created, you can start decorating the walls. So that the frame bath can be used at any time of the year, need to be done:

inner lining. There are many materials suitable for interior decoration. But wooden lining is more popular. In the steam room, it is better to choose hardwood (alder, linden or aspen).
Insulation is laid between the racks of the frame. For these purposes, you can choose mineral wool. Direct the metallized layer inside the room.
Waterproofing and wind protection. So that the insulation does not come into contact with moisture, it is protected with a vapor barrier film. The edges need to be brought to the floor, door slopes and walls and glued well with metallized tape.
Outer upholstery. For external cladding, you can choose plywood, edged board, OSB-boards. Do not forget to treat the joints with mounting foam or caulk. After that, you can proceed to decorating the walls.

floor laying

The floor in the frame-panel bath should be wooden with water draining into the sewer. At the end of the work, partitions are installed between the steam room, the washing department, the dressing room and the rest room.

Roof, ceiling and roof construction

Frame building - lightweight construction, which not suitable for heavy roofing. Experts for such buildings are advised to choose a gable roof with hanging rafters. It is better not to build an attic so as not to create an additional load on the building, and to arrange the ceiling, choose wooden blocks.

Ready-made sets of baths

To make life easier for the builders of frame-panel baths, you can order a ready-made kit from specialized companies, which is inexpensive and reduces construction time.

Typically, this kit includes panels for exterior and interior walls, wood flooring, roofing panels, mounting bars, fasteners and technical documents. Such baths collected within 1-2 weeks. For example, it will take 2-3 days to build a steam room.

But still, the cost of a bath with the help of a ready-made kit will cost more than building from materials chosen independently.

The cost of building a frame bath with your own hands

The cost of a do-it-yourself bath is several times lower than the construction of a building made of bricks or beams. Approximate price - from 100,000 rubles. The cost of ready-made kits starts from 150,000 rubles. To accurately calculate the costs, you need to determine the size of the bath and make drawings.

Frame baths - economical option, which allows you to reduce the monetary and time costs of construction. Their only drawback is that they are not as durable as baths made of timber or brick, but if you approach the construction process responsibly and choose high-quality materials, the frame building will last at least 100 years.

You can quickly and inexpensively build a bath in only one way - frame. If you follow the basic rules, then the building will be in no way inferior to brick and timber counterparts.

We design a bath - different options for the area

We start work on the bath with design. At this stage, it is necessary to determine the size and configuration of the future structure. If your requirements are minimal, you can build a 3x4 m bath. It has enough space for a steam room for several people with an area of 6 m 2. The remaining space can be taken under the rest room. If you donate a rest room, then there will be enough space for a locker room and a vestibule. And if you equip such a bath with an attic floor, then you won’t have to give up the rest room.

If the bath will be used as a place to spend time with friends, it is better to make it larger, for example, 6x4. In this case, you can equip it enough spacious room recreation with an area of about 14 m 2, as well as a steam room for 5 m 2 and a small bathroom.

And if you make a 4x6 bath with an attic, then the steam room and washing room, as well as a relaxation room and a terrace, can be placed on the ground floor. The entire attic floor, which is about 20 m 2, can be set aside for a rest room.

If the size of your site allows, and the budget is not very limited, make an attic bath 6x6 m in size so as not to deny yourself anything. It has space for all the necessary premises, as well as for a terrace and a spacious balcony.

Large steam rooms are much more difficult to heat to the required temperature and then maintain the temperature at the same level. Therefore, if there is no need for a large steam room, it is more expedient to allocate no more than 4-5 m 2 for it. This will save fuel and time to warm up the room.

In order not to puzzle over the layout, you can take as a basis finished projects offered on our website. Adjust the layout as needed if necessary. When the plan is ready, be sure to draw up a drawing of the frame of the walls and roof.

The frame of the walls is quite simple - it is based on racks, which are located in increments of 600 mm, if measured from the centers, or 575 mm, if measured between the racks. Above and below the racks are connected by strapping - a horizontally located beam or board. In the corners of the rack are reinforced with braces. Above the doorways, as well as above and below the window openings, there are horizontal lintels. Floor beams are calculated and laid in the same way as in the construction of ordinary houses.

Having such a drawing in front of you, you will not make mistakes in the process of assembling the structure. In addition, it will allow you to calculate in advance the required amount of lumber.

Column foundation - building the foundation

Since the frame bath is light in weight, in most cases a columnar, shallow foundation is sufficient for it, provided that the soil is stable. On unstable soils, it is better to perform pile screw foundation. If you are planning a cellar or equipping other premises, then you will need a strip foundation. In other cases, it is better to refuse it, since the construction of such a foundation is very costly and time-consuming.

Regardless of what kind of foundation you are going to build, first prepare the site - first of all, you need to correctly outline it. Be sure to make sure that the diagonals of the site are the same length. Then get rid of the plant layer. So that plants do not germinate under the bath in the future, treat the soil with fungicides.

Now you can start building the foundation itself. If the base is columnar, you will need the following materials:

sand;
crushed stone;
cement mortar;
concrete foundation blocks (can be replaced with bricks);
bituminous mastic;
ruberoid;
timber 150x150 mm.

After preparing the materials, mark the area for the posts, which should be located in increments of 1.5–2 m. Then dig holes to a depth of about 40 cm. Fill the bottom of the holes with gravel and sand 10 cm thick. Tamp each layer carefully. Align the surface of the embankment in a horizontal plane.

Put two in the holes concrete blocks, then apply the solution and lay two more blocks with dressing on top. In the process of laying blocks, make sure that the posts are installed strictly vertically. Then, treat the blocks with bituminous mastic on top and lay a couple of layers of roofing material.

After that, you need to perform a grillage, i.e. lay a beam along the perimeter of the foundation and fasten it together. In the process of laying, make sure that the corners of the grillage are 90 degrees. It is desirable to perform the corner connection of the grillage beam "in the paw" or at least "in half a tree". Then you need to lay the floor beams on the posts and cut them into the grillage.

The pile-screw foundation is even simpler - piles are screwed into the ground according to the principle of a conventional drill. The level of their penetration should be at least two meters. In the process of deepening, it is necessary to ensure that the piles are located vertically.

Then the top of the piles is cut so that the edges are at the same horizontal level. After that, a grillage is welded to the piles, which is usually made of I-beams. The same beams are used for overlapping.

On the metal beams you need to fix the beam 150x150 mm with bolts. It will serve as a strapping for the frame racks.

Assembling the frame - materials and installation

For the construction of the wall frame, you will need the following lumber:

timber 150x150 mm;
timber 100x150 mm;
board 150x40 mm;
steel corners;
wooden dowels.

Be sure to treat all lumber with antiseptic impregnations. They will protect the tree from negative biological influences, as well as make it more resistant to moisture.

Work begins with the installation of racks at the corners of the building, which are made of timber 150x150 mm. At the end of each post, drill a hole for the dowel with a depth of 80-100 mm. Make the same holes in the grillage at the corners of the building. Then hammer the dowels themselves into the grillage and put the racks on them. Additionally, strengthen the racks with steel corners and self-tapping screws.

Then the racks must be strengthened with braces, as shown in the diagram above. For the manufacture of braces, use boards 150x40 mm. Cut the ends of the braces at an angle with which they will adjoin the harness and uprights. To fix the boards, use self-tapping screws and corners.

Next, install intermediate wall racks with a pitch of 600 mm, made from a board 150x40 mm. To fasten the racks, use steel corners, which should be located on both sides of the brace. In addition, connect the intermediate posts to each other, as well as to the corner posts, using jumpers made from the same boards. Arrange jumpers in a checkerboard pattern, i.e. at different levels.

From above, tie all the racks with a strapping, which is made of a beam of 100x150 mm, it will also serve as a Mauerlat for the roof. Then install horizontal strips above and below the openings. Use the same board for the planks as for the uprights.

Then install the racks in the same way. interior partitions- connect them from above and below with a strapping, and also strengthen them with braces and jumpers. This completes the construction of the frame.

Now you need to lay the floor beams, which can be used as a timber 100x150 mm. Place them with an edge on the strapping and secure with corners. The step of the beams must match the step of the rafters - this is usually 900–1000 mm.

We mount the mansard roof

As an example, let's consider it as a roof, since it allows you to get an almost full-fledged second floor with a minimal increase in financial costs. If you are interested in or, check out other articles on our portal.

For mansard roof you will need the following materials:

timber 100x150 mm for racks;
boards 150x50 mm for rafters;
boards 150x20 mm;
slats;
super diffuse membrane;
roofing material.

Work begins with the installation of the supporting structure. For each roof truss, two racks are installed, which are connected from above by beams. Those. under each roof truss there is a U-shaped supporting structure.

When installing the support structure, it is necessary to correctly determine the position of the racks. Since the rack with the lower rafter and the Mauerlat (floor beam) forms a rectangle, the distance from the wall to the rack depends on the height of the attic and the angle of inclination of the lower rafter. Knowing the angle of the rafter and the height of the rack (determines the height of the attic room), you can calculate at what distance from the edge the rack is installed using the Pythagorean theorem, i.e. you need to know the length of the smaller leg.

Fix the racks on the strapping and floor beams with self-tapping screws and corners. Also, reinforce them with braces. Then connect both racks with beams. According to this principle, install U-shaped parts on all floor beams. Connect all the resulting load-bearing elements along the edges with runs, as shown in the diagram above.

Now you can install the lower rafters. From below, they are slaughtered and attached to the strapping, and from above - to the run, in which the grooves are pre-cut. Next, you need to fix the racks in the center of the jumpers of the U-shaped parts. The height of the racks determines the angle of inclination of the upper rafters. Tie all racks with a ridge run.

At the end of work on the attic frame, install the upper rafters, which rest on the lower and ridge runs. Pre-cut grooves for the rafters in the runs. Immediately waterproof the roof - fix the super-diffuse membrane to the rafters with a stapler. Stick a special self-adhesive tape over the brackets, which will ensure the tightness of the connection. Please note that the membrane webs should overlap each other by 20–25 centimeters.

The superdiffuse membrane is able to pass moisture in one direction. Therefore, it should be located on the roof with the smooth side outward, and the rough side inward. If you fix it incorrectly, moisture can penetrate deep into the insulation, as a result of which it will lose its thermal insulation properties.

On top of the rafters, be sure to fasten the slats that will serve as a counter-lattice. Then fix the boards 150x20 mm perpendicular to the rails. As for the crate step, follow the manufacturer's recommendations. roofing material that you purchased for the bath.

Mounted on top of the frame roofing according to the standard scheme - sheets of material must necessarily overlap each other along and across. Screws or nails are located on the crest of the wave.

We insulate the walls, roof and floor of the bath

To insulate walls you will need:

basalt wool with a thickness of 150 mm and a density of 25-35 kg / m 3;
vapor barrier film;
moisture-windproof membrane (super diffuse);
wooden slats.

For steam insulation, it is more expedient to use a foil vapor barrier material. It will not only protect the structure from moisture, but will also reflect heat into the room.

Warming will start with the vapor barrier of the walls from the inside. To do this, stick self-adhesive double-sided sealing tape on the racks. Then glue the waterproofing film to the tape. Be sure to place the canvases with an overlap of at least 15 centimeters. Glue the joints with double-sided sealing tape. Additionally fix the foam with a stapler. As a result, an absolutely sealed circuit should be obtained, otherwise moisture will penetrate inside the walls and the frame will quickly become unusable.

Then lay the plates in the space of the frame mineral wool. Make sure that the insulation fits snugly to the structural elements and to each other. Carefully fill all the formed cracks with scraps of cotton wool.

Next, you need to fix the moisture-windproof membrane on the outside of the walls. It is mounted according to the same principle as a vapor barrier - a sealant is glued to the racks, then the membrane itself is attached with a stapler. On top of the film on the racks, it is imperative to fix the rails with a thickness of at least 20 mm. Stuff the same rails on the racks with inside walls, they will serve as a crate for lining.

The roof is insulated using the same technology - mineral wool is laid between the rafters, then it is closed from the inside with a vapor barrier. A crate for lining or other finishing materials is mounted on top of the vapor barrier.

The floor is insulated a little differently - first of all, you need to make a rough flooring between the floor beams from the boards. Then a waterproofing film is laid on the beams and flooring (you can use a conventional vapor barrier). Logs are laid on top of the film as when installing a conventional floor.

A heater is placed in the space between the lags. You can use any material, both slab and loose, such as ecowool or expanded clay. Another layer of film is laid on top of the lag and then the flooring is made of boards.

To insulate the ceiling, fix the vapor barrier from the side of the first floor, and then make a draft ceiling from the boards. Then, from the side of the second floor, you need to fill the space between the beams with insulation. A vapor barrier and plank flooring are laid on top of the beams.

We sheathe the walls - the final stage

For wall cladding on the outside, it is best to use OSB-4 with a thickness of 12-15 mm. The sheets must be cut so that the edges lie on the rack. There should be no hanging edges. At the locations of window and door openings, it is necessary to make cutouts using a jigsaw or a hacksaw.

To fasten the sheets, use phosphated self-tapping screws 60-70 mm long. The distance from the edge of the sheet to the screw should be 10 mm. The step of fasteners along the edges should not exceed 150 mm. In the center of the sheets, the pitch of the screws can be increased up to 300 mm.

Between the edges of the sheets, be sure to provide a distance of about 5 mm, i.e. the so-called expansion joint. If it is not done, the sheathing sheets may be deformed as a result of thermal expansion. All seams must be filled with mounting foam.

Similarly, sheathe the gables of the building. Then the walls can be finished with any "dry" facade finishing materials, such as lining, siding, thermal panels, etc. From the inside, sheathe the walls with clapboard. If you do not know how, dedicated to the topic.

That's all the main points. Even if you are a beginner, you can build a box of a small bath in one to two weeks.

The construction of a bath is necessary on any suburban area and at country house. But traditional options, which use brick or timber, have a number of disadvantages. But the frame structures deprived of them must be erected using a special technology.

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Peculiarities

It is very difficult to build buildings, even such minor ones as a bathhouse, with your own hands from brick or logs. You will need to spend a lot of money on materials, prepare flawless drawings. And without the help of someone, it will not be possible to do such a job at all. That's why frame projects deserve more attention. Moreover, the consumption of wood compared to conventional designs from the beam is reduced exactly by half.

The buildings are relatively light, even if they are made in dimensions of 6 by 4 or 6x6 m; if the size of the structure is 3x4, 4x4 m, this circumstance manifests itself even more. Therefore, there is no need to prepare solid foundations. You can simultaneously trim the outer and internal walls, and the overall speed of installation increases markedly. The smallest area of the steam room is 250x250 cm. It is recommended to use asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 100 and a length of 4000 mm for the foundation, which are filled with concrete.

All wooden elements are thoroughly dried before installation. The rafters are assembled on the ground, after which they are alternately lifted and placed above the frame racks. The roof is made only in a ventilated version.

It is advisable not to raise the ceiling in the steam room above 210 cm. Only after finishing the frame, the bath is divided into separate rooms.

Pros and cons

Undeniable advantages structures of frame baths are:

Ease of construction;
cheap construction (small payment for materials);
simplification of foundation work in comparison with other options;
poor thermal conductivity;
the ability to make communication channels inside the walls and not spoil the appearance;

exclusion of shrinkage;
no need for complex construction equipment;
environmental safety (a rarity for country budget buildings);
the ability to perform all the work without the involvement of specialists;
exclusion of wet work - you can build in winter and even where there is no sustainable water supply;
a wide variety of finishes.

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But after carefully studying the reviews of owners and developers, you can immediately find certain shortcomings. Each of them can be eliminated by timely measures, only because it is necessary to properly understand possible problems. Frame baths in their pure form cool down quickly, and therefore inside through a short time an ugly fungus appears. To cope with this difficulty, you need to use only the highest quality heaters.

Styrofoam or plain mineral wool do not serve effectively enough, and the first option also catches fire easily.

You can extend the life of the shield bath if you impregnate all used timber and boards with special antiseptics. After 18-24 months, the frame shrinkage is sometimes 80-100 mm. As a result, the outer and inner finishes are deformed. You can reduce this risk if you take lumber that has undergone chamber drying.

Design subtleties

The ease of construction and its accessibility for non-professionals does not mean that you can safely get to work without preparation. Even the presence of experience in such work does not give grounds for a complacent attitude. A well-thought-out project and drawings of the future structure will help to avoid serious mistakes.

On a small area (3x4 or 4x4 m), it is required to maximize the intensity of space use. As much as possible small baths should generally be avoided if there is sufficient land for development.

The most simple circuit- when the steam room, shower room, boiler room and dressing room are combined. But such a step is acceptable only for mini structures or transportable baths, because it is not possible to distribute the temperature as expected. Therefore, they try to create even with the smallest dimensions, albeit very small, but autonomous rooms. A 3x4 m bath may well be heated by a small boiler or a wood-burning stove. Some designers even find the opportunity to supplement it with a veranda or terrace.

Minimal-sized projects have a number of valuable properties:

low consumption of building materials;
almost complete exclusion of waste;
high speed of work;
strength and reliability (since it is not required to save on the quality of components in a small area).

It should be remembered that even a small one-story extension to the house must be registered with the cadastral authorities.

On a larger plot, it is quite possible to build a 6x6 bathhouse: it will already allow not only to wash off the dirt from itself, but also to invite the whole family and even a group of friends. Typical projects with such sides imply a significant area of \u200b\u200bthe rest room - it can reach 20 m2. Most often, it is there that they also have a staircase connecting the first floor with the attic.

Two-story bath surpasses the one-story one already because it allows you to organize additional space for living and leisure. Often there are rooms for receiving guests, bedrooms, billiard tables or other sports equipment.

Thanks to the frame technology, the vast majority of the costs relate to the base of the building, and if it already exists, the subsequent stages of work will be much more affordable.

In the construction of two floors, the first step is to create a foundation of support pillars, and the base must be covered with a layer of waterproofing. Experts recommend building a bath truss system from boards with a section of 10x5 cm, and a 2.2 cm thick board usually goes to the crate.

The frame-panel structure is assembled according to the principle of a toy constructor. It is not difficult to find combinations of elements suitable for the construction of a washing room with a pool, then they are only placed on a prepared frame. The kit usually comes with a detailed technological instruction that helps to avoid mistakes - if only it is strictly observed. In the case of mobile baths, everything is even simpler - they are assembled not at construction sites, but at industrial enterprises. All that remains for customers is only to add ready blocks the necessary details.

Most projects involve the use of gable roofs, the attic space under them is not organized or it is very small. Inside, they often put bath equipment. When choosing the type of foundation, they are guided by the category of soil and its condition. The mass of the building, even if we take into account the presence of a second floor in a number of options, is relatively small. The design indicators of insulation depend on whether the bath will be used all year round or whether it is intended only for the warm season.

Calculation of the amount of materials

The need for metal frame nodes is not so difficult to calculate: any seller can do this by learning required dimensions and execution. In typical projects, the exact metal consumption is normalized, and if they are drawn up according to custom order, then all calculations are undertaken by the designers. But all the same, they must be controlled, since even on iron material, some builders can make “mistakes” in their favor. Before calculating the needs for wood, you need to choose whether a beam or a log will be used in this case. Timber-based structures are preferable because:

shrinkage is noticeably reduced;
there are no strict restrictions on size and geometry;
work is greatly simplified.

The most durable timber, according to experts, is made from coniferous species, moreover, they are less susceptible to the destructive action of insects and microorganisms gnawing wood. Standard sizes the beams taken into account in the calculations range from 10x10 to 20x20 cm. The volume is calculated by multiplying the length by the height and by the thickness of a single element.

Some masters say that you need to add 10-30% to the result. But this step is frankly stupid, because on the contrary, you will have to spend less timber - it is not mounted on window and door openings.

Inexperienced customers and even builders replace the length of the perimeter with an area, and then they are forced to stop work, buy the missing materials and spend money on their transportation. In order not to be mistaken, you should also carefully check the labeling and accompanying documents. In some cases, on the price tags and in the speeches of the sellers, the dimensions of the timber are somewhat larger than it actually is.

To further save money, you can change the timber to boards, and make the cladding from plastic lining or profile sheets. When working, only boards of the highest category are acceptable.

Construction stages

Having calculated the need for materials and choosing the dimensions of the frame bath, you need to deal with the sequence of construction work. There are no fundamental differences from the construction of other baths or city houses in the order of stages, but each of them has its own specifics.

Foundation

So, when building a base, it is best to use columnar structures. They are assembled from asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of approximately 10 cm, reinforced from the inside with concrete. Then they mark out the external contours and, with the help of a drill, drill openings that go 2 m deep.

For your information: the depth in some cases may be more or less. This decision is made, focusing on the type of soil and the depth of groundwater. Each pipe is inserted into the opening and covered with coarse sand from above, besides, it is thoroughly rammed. When pouring, concrete is used, which is prepared from:

1 part of cement M200;
4 parts of sand;
7.5 parts of small gravel;
3 parts pure water.

According to the step-by-step instructions, the filling of the pipes should be smooth, a strong steel plate is placed on each of them when ready. The mounted pipes must dry, and only then comes the turn to the installation of the lower trim. The box is treated with disinfectants and covered with a layer of waterproofing. Logs are placed on top of the strapping, a draft floor is formed from them. In the gap separating the structure from the log and the strapping, a roofing material is laid, sometimes this place is abundantly smeared with mastic.

The construction of the foundation under the frame bath, which has two or three floors, must take into account the total load and snow pressure. Wooden bases are allowed only for miniature baths, the total area of \u200b\u200bwhich is 12 square meters. m or less. Increased attention will need to be paid to calculating the diameter of the beam and leveling the surfaces.

Be sure to put several bars on the same level, trimmed around the perimeter with stakes. Such systems perform well on clay soils, where they serve stably for many years.

During the construction of baths on screw piles, there is no need to join the supporting structures using beams or channels. Such supports help to build even on a hillside or on a heavily eroded bank of a river with a rapid current. The introduction of piles into the ground is carried out either with the involvement of special equipment, or through the efforts of several builders at the same time. When working, it is strictly forbidden to deviate the support from the horizon line.

On every fourth turn, the position of the pile is carefully verified using a magnetic level. According to the technology, it is forbidden to extract structures that have bent during twisting to the outside, their position is corrected using a rotary level. To get rid of the gaps separating the piles and the surrounding soil, you can use any durable concrete and reinforcement fragments. After completing the installation, the piles are checked for evenness. If everything is in order, heads are welded on top of them; drain in the bath is always equipped not only in washing room but also in the steam room.

Many try to put a bath on strip base. Such a solution is acceptable even on soil prone to movement and subsidence, which can easily swell. The tape is divided into Finnish and Canadian; both technological schools are simple, but require careful and responsible approach. Monolithic foundations are erected directly on the construction site, and prefabricated foundations are only laid and connected. Most often, they are guided by a shallow depth (up to 50 cm), such a tape is evenly spread under the bearing walls.

The choice of a suitable foundation option is often difficult without geological surveys. The simplest check can be done independently: the type of soil and its visual characteristics are recognized by digging a trench 150 cm deep. They carefully evaluate not only the height of groundwater, but also the level at which the earth freezes.

For any type of foundation, the construction site is cleared in advance of grasses and bushes, flowers and turf. There should not even be stumps, roots and any objects that could interfere with construction.

Strong cords made of colored fabrics help to simplify marking. In accordance with the markup, you need to dig a recess for the foundation, which will be 50 cm deeper and 400 cm wider than the prepared guideline. The pillow of the building is made of sand, which is abundantly filled with water and rammed. Then cover the first layer with rubble. Waterproofing is placed along the side planes of the trench. Traditionally, roofing material is used, although more and more often it is being replaced by a more modern penetron.

The formwork is created as follows: the upper edge of the waterproofing is used for laying boards, their thickness is 50 mm, and their width is a maximum of 1.5 m. wire reinforcement, wound up 50 mm below the top point of the formwork (later completely hidden by a layer of concrete). Concreting is carried out with a mixture of cement with sand and gravel, in terms of density it is similar to dense sour cream. Additional hardening is achieved by plasticizers.

It is recommended to prepare the mortar yourself as it is much faster than getting ready mix from the factory. In addition, this approach will help preserve the quality of the cold joint, avoid water seeping through it, which would spoil the base. And, importantly, the differences in cost can be neglected. After completing the work, the foundation is covered with a liquid-impervious material. Concrete will harden in 24 hours, but it will gain final strength only after a few weeks.

The formwork must be made using even and strong panels so that its appearance is perfect. Nails are hammered in strictly from the inside to the outside. If you do the opposite, it will be much more difficult to remove the shields. When working on formwork structures, you need to immediately think about outlets for sewerage, water supply and electrical cables. If they are not immediately provided, then it will be necessary to hollow and violate the quality of the monolith.

It is quite acceptable to put a strip foundation in the form of a monolithic belt under a frame bath if the fertile soil layer is taken out and replaced with sprinkled sand.

Both a monolithic solution and a shallow structure, and a non-buried base must be protected from the force of frost heaving. For this use:

drainage means;
side edges;
insulation around the blind area;
removal of heaving soils with their replacement with sand or crushed stone.

Shallow depth belts should not be used on various slopes: there they will not withstand significant shear forces. When building on dusty sand or embankment, an expansion slab is placed below. A properly executed monolith always has a greater height than width. Moreover, the difference is 2-4 times; such a step will make the basement part of the structure optimal, it will be possible to form both the overlap of the beams and the dirt floors.

Walls and floor

They begin to work by placing special racks that will be fixed by the upper strapping. In the intervals between them, other racks are added. They will make the bath stronger and more stable. The box is covered with boards, attached to the screws. Consistently assembling the details, they form the final design.

In frame buildings, windows and doors are mounted immediately, without waiting for the complete completion of work.

In most frame baths, floors are created from logs and boards, but it will not be possible to accurately determine the appropriate size of these elements without complex calculations. But this is not necessary - private developers may well get by with ready-made average values. In most cases, boards with a thickness of 30-40 mm and finishing logs based on a bar with a section of 100x150 mm are acceptable. The thickness of the board, expressed in millimeters, should approximately correspond to the gap between the lags, expressed in centimeters.

If thermal insulation is used, the gaps between the lags of the finishing decks are corrected taking into account the thermal insulation layer created.

As for the basic materials, all long-serving types of wood are suitable for creating a floor in a frame bath. But poplar and stuff soft wood unacceptable. Before buying and using, you should carefully check the dryness and integrity of the material, the absence of cracks, splits and other problems. Ideally, all lumber should come from the same kiln-dried lot.

It is desirable to make a finishing flooring from an edged or tongue-and-groove board, since it does not need to be further polished, but the rough base can also be unedged.

An alternative to wooden structures is often a self-leveling floor. This solution has become more and more popular over the years, pushing ceramic and stone surfaces into the background. The key advantages of self-leveling floor can be considered:

integrity of the created coating;
high mechanical strength and excellent wear resistance;
zero level of fire danger;
absence of dust and harmful emissions during operation;
a significant variety of design options, including decoration with three-dimensional drawings;
care is much easier than for wooden structures.

But there are also objective weaknesses: for example, the self-leveling floor finally hardens only after a few days, when you can walk on the wooden floor right away. There is a high risk of scratches and dirt, and the cost of such a coating is very high. Any bath floors are recommended to be made with a slope towards the drain, this will prevent water and soap suds from spreading in all directions. The self-leveling floor can be done horizontally (without a slope) or the mixture can be poured onto a base that already has a slope. The first option requires carefully sealing the intersections of the floor with the walls, and the second is more difficult to perform, but directs all the liquid in the right direction at once.

The self-leveling floor cannot be simply “poured”: its substrate is prepared very carefully. On top of the tree, you need to lay powerful concrete screeds, and with reinforcement. The sooner the mixture is poured, the better - it rapidly loses fluidity, and if this happens before the end of work, all costs will be in vain. Most often, the floors are poured together.

When working with walls, in most cases, the front skin is made on the basis of lining or chipboard. Waterproofing is provided by parchment laid under the outer skin. Only then is a heater used, which must be ideally environmentally friendly and safe in terms of fire. The total thickness of the cake and its individual layers is determined by the climatic parameters of the territory and the peculiarities of using a frame bath.

A year-round building should have not only thicker walls, but also a special vapor barrier. Polyethylene film is considered the best solution for it.

Painting wall sheathing, even in dressing rooms, is undesirable, because even the safest paint and varnish vapors can be harmful to health. When thinking over the design of the walls, special attention is paid to how they will pass ventilation ducts and electric wires. Because for exterior finish flammable materials are used, and excess moisture is often present in the air, it is worth giving preference to closed, thoroughly insulated cable ducts.

If the rooms are finished with boards, their thickness should be approximately 30 mm. With a smaller value, strength suffers, with a larger one, the structure becomes heavy.

Roof

The basic parts used in the construction of the roof of the frame bath are gradually laid and assembled together directly on the site. The farm should stand on the prepared frame base. To simplify the work on creating a roof, placing it on a rough boardwalk helps. An exemplary pie always includes ventilation systems, so the gap from the rafters to the counter beam is filled with a vapor barrier. The crate must be attached to the timber.

Then it's time to make gables from oriented slabs or quality boards. In most cases, it is worth limiting yourself to the simplest shed roof, which is performed quickly and without unnecessary difficulties. But if you choose a completely original design, not every specialist will be able to complete the work competently and within the allotted time.

What is very important, with the same area, gable solutions turn out to be 50-100% more expensive, and this difference is not justified even by their specific capabilities. With the right calculation, a covering with one slope will last for many years and all this time it will be extremely convenient to use.

flat roofs do-it-yourself baths are not recommended. The cost-effectiveness of such a choice is only apparent - the need for powerful artificial ventilation with natural weakness absorbs all the savings. According to qualified builders, a shed roof should be located under a general slope of 20 to 30 degrees. Under this condition, liquid and solid precipitation will spontaneously descend.

There are two ways to create a slope: intentionally making the walls uneven in height or installing racks. With the second option, the material is spent less, but the heat will keep worse.

Experienced roofers know for sure that as the pitch of the roof decreases, more and more smooth face materials have to be used. But at an angle of less than 10 degrees, even the best solutions do not allow you to get rid of the puddles and snow drifts that form. Mauerlat is formed from a coniferous timber with a cross section of at least 15x15 cm. Outside, it is covered with a layer of waterproofing (lubricated with mastic or wrapped with roofing material). Rafters are made exclusively from flat boards with a section of 5x15 cm, which are made of hardwoods.

With such dimensions, an optimal margin of safety is achieved and it remains possible to mount insulation up to 15 cm thick, if necessary. For your information: the length of the rafters is calculated with reservation for overhangs, which improve the protection of walls from water. All ends of the rafter legs are equipped with cuts for power plates, which are fastened with nails or metal overlays. The crate is attached to the legs of the rafters at a right angle.

Under certain roofing materials that are prone to deformation, an inextricable crate based on moisture-resistant plywood is necessarily created.

In other cases, they put gratings of slats, their thickness varies from 2.5 to 3 cm. But in each specific case, of course, this thickness should be uniform throughout the entire volume. It is advisable to cover baths with shed roofs with ondulin, corrugated board, metal or soft tiles. If there is a simple ceiling below, without an attic or attic, it is required to lay a slab or roll insulation. Regardless, use:

hydrophobic film;
flame retardant and antiseptic impregnations;
fasteners of a special sample;
carefully selected and tested tools.

Shed type roofs should be supported by rafters spaced in 0.5-0.8 m increments. The roofing material should be attached to the base using special self-tapping screws, including synthetic rubber caps. These tops help block water seepage. If there is no specialized fastener, you need to use simple self-tapping screws, supplementing them with external rubber gaskets. Then the pediments are sewn up, the drain is equipped - this completes the external work on the frame bath.

Finishing

No matter how reliable and durable the created “box” is, it will not work to be limited to it. It is imperative to protect these structures from negative external influences and at the same time make them more attractive.

Finishing external walls helps builders and designers to express their tastes, aesthetic priorities. Often they try to sheathe them with siding, clapboard. Slightly in popularity, these materials are inferior to the block house and plaster.

Before applying any cladding, you need to check the draft walls. They should not even have minor cracks, the skin joints should fit snugly against each other. With help vinyl siding you can create a variety of visual pictures: an imitation of a simple tree, and a “brick” wall, and something high-tech in spirit. Performing just as well plastic panels, and if you need to increase the natural appearance of the bath to the limit, you should choose a block house.

In the case of choosing a lining, it is required to withstand several days in order for acclimatization to take place.

Decorating a frame bath from the inside is no less important than from the outside. It is recommended to give preference to environmentally friendly materials, their increased cost is fully justified. The choice of design in interior decoration is now unlimited, you can use any style, not necessarily traditional Russian. Dressing rooms are trimmed with both hardwood and softwood. But it is advisable to choose the color as calm and balanced as possible, given the purpose of the bath.

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Washing compartments are covered with clapboard, soaked in advance with mixtures that block rotting. Some consumers use plastic panels and even polycarbonate sheets. In the steam room there is no place for coniferous wood, with the exception of cedar. Among the hardwood varieties, the first place is invariably linden, which does not burn when touched and does not fade during long-term operation. In more budget projects, preference is given to aspen and alder.

You can decorate a bath brick oven with the help of tiles: this option is the simplest, cheapest and at the same time allows you to provide an attractive appearance. Tiles should not be hung on masonry, they should rest on the base of the stove. Simple plastering should be abandoned, it does not give decent results even in dry rooms. Good results sometimes bring the use of decorative stone.

If the stove is not made of brick, but is delivered to order, you should choose the solution that matches the chosen style.

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Ventilation

Even the most durable and reliable materials will not last long if moisture stagnates inside. And the constant accumulation of stale air will not give anyone pleasure. All these problems are solved with the use of carefully thought-out ventilation. In most cases, the choice is made between supply and exhaust and natural systems. Self-circulation is ensured by placing the air inlet at a height of 0.5 m from the floor, and the air outlet at about the same distance below the ceiling.

It is possible to equip the outlet at the bottom only when using forced ventilation or big ventilation pipe. The cold air inlet can be organized in the space behind the stove, and the outlet in the floor itself, if the basement is connected with ventilation. outdoor air or other premises. For baths built into the house, forced ventilation must always be used.

What to insulate?

It is unreasonable to blame high-quality and intensive air exchange for the lack of heat in the bath. Almost always, the real cause of the problem is weak and poor-quality insulation. In most cases, mineral wool slabs are used. Due to the large amount of air inside, they perfectly retain heat, and the high melting point allows you not to be afraid of a fire. Often the frame wall is insulated with reed slabs, which are environmentally friendly and perform their task well.

The cheapness of foamed synthetic materials and their lightness, resistance to moisture make such protective coatings one of the best. But it is important to understand that not all materials in this series are equally perfect. In addition, any such insulation is allowed to be used only where strong heating is excluded.

Thermal protection must be covered from contact with water and water vapor. Wet heaters quickly deteriorate and lose their positive qualities.

The classic approach to insulating furnaces and their surroundings involves the use of various asbestos materials to protect them. It can be used in the form of plates or canvases. But given the danger of asbestos fibers for humans, it is advisable to use other finishing methods:

basalt fiber;
isolon;
needle-punched mats.

The heat in the bath can go not only through the walls; most of its leakage occurs through floors and ceilings. Expanded clay is sometimes used to create thermal protection inside them. In wall insulation, it is used less and less, because it is too heavy (500 kg per 1 m3) compared to publicly available counterparts. In addition, expanded clay is significantly inferior in terms of heat retention to both foam plastic and mineral wool, so the thickness of the insulating layer grows. And even though it slowly but steadily absorbs water, it turns out to be very difficult to dry the material.

The insulation of frame buildings with sawdust has a rather long history. They are absolutely safe in environmental and sanitary terms, but putting such thermal protection will not work quickly. Wood chips are used not only for insulation, but also as bedding for animals, fertilizer and in many other cases. Therefore, suppliers no longer give it away for free, but prefer to receive money for such a sought-after product. In a large city, sawdust is also sold in supermarkets, but there the price level is even higher than at sawmills.

Only hardwood shavings are suitable for work. The maximum allowable humidity is 20%, and it is better if it is even lower. Clean sawdust at construction sites has not been used for a long time, because they settle and form voids, a fungus may appear inside.

Be sure to treat the raw materials with boric acid or blue vitriol. The standard mixture also includes clay or cement (when finishing the ceiling), lime or gypsum.

The layer of sawdust under the floor must be at least 200 mm, and in northern regions RF, this figure can be increased by another 50%. Bulk laying involves mixing wood processing waste with binders, then the composition is poured into wood molds over which the floor is laid. The base is protected from moisture with kraft paper, polyethylene and similar materials. The composition is placed uniformly over the entire area, it has to be compacted only in rare cases. The final readiness of the insulation is achieved after two days.

Examples of finished buildings

Beautiful frame baths can be made in a variety of designs. This is what the design looks like with a not too steep roof pushed forward above the facade. In front of the door there is a kind of platform, on which you need to climb a small staircase. The design concept is clearly built in the spirit of maximum naturalness of the building. Many corner baths built using frame technology are finished with siding.

With proper execution, it is extremely difficult to distinguish them from simple log buildings. Modern approach baths often involve the use of minimalist style. A striking example is shown in the photograph - there is only a canopy, a small ladder and clapboard-trimmed walls and a rectangular window. You can build such a structure with your own hands, moreover, in the shortest possible time. Using any of the presented varieties of washing is easy and convenient.

There is no money to build a bath from timber or brick, which means that you will have to use cheap technology for building a frame building. And although a frame bath is a small cash investment, it will still meet the objectives. Of course, if you correctly approach the construction process itself. So, for those who want to build a bath using frame technology with their own hands, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with its main stages and some of the nuances.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for building a frame bath

Like any construction process, the construction of a frame bath is divided into several stages. Each stage has its own moments and requirements.

Foundation construction

First of all, you need to choose a foundation for a frame bath. Since this structure is light, two options can be offered:

Columnar.
Tape (shallow).

The construction of a columnar foundation for a frame bath is based on right choice places to fill them. Usually these are places at the corners of the bath and several intermediate foundations, on which the load-bearing walls will rest. The distance between the pillars is 80-150 cm. This indicator is determined by several factors:

Post dimensions;
Soil condition;
The weight of the frame bath;
Floors of the building.

If at the bottom of the well under the foundation an expanded space is made, which is called the fifth, then both the number of pillars and their dimensions can be reduced. The point is that this form foundation pillar doubles its carrying capacity. To create such a form, you will have to use a special drill.

So, the installation sites for the foundation supports for the frame bath have been determined, now it is necessary to dig holes for them. To do this, you can use a garden drill with a diameter of 200 mm. Even a teenager can master this operation with his own hands. Well depth - 1 m.

Either sand or crushed stone of a fine fraction with a thickness of 10-15 cm is poured into prepared wells.
A pre-prepared reinforcing frame is installed in the form of a structure with a triangular or rectangular section of reinforcement. It should rise above the edge of the ground to a height of approximately 20 cm.
A cylinder is made of roofing material, which is lowered into the well. This is a kind of waterproofing layer and an element for the formation of a smooth surface of the support.
Above the well, it is necessary to install a small formwork with a height equal to the height of the ledge of the reinforcement cage. It can be made from plastic sewer pipe 200 mm in diameter. By the way, this formwork can work as fixed.

Do-it-yourself concrete mortar is poured, which, as it is poured, is bayoneted with a piece of metal fittings or a pipe. It is important here not only to compact the material well with your own hands, but also to remove maximum amount air that gets into it during the kneading process. It is the air after the concrete hardens that will determine the number of pores, and they negatively affect the quality of the concrete structure.

Attention! Be sure to install an anchor board in each column during pouring of concrete. Its length is not less than half a meter, while above the surface of the support it should stick out 25 cm in size.

On this, the construction of a do-it-yourself columnar foundation for a frame bath can be considered completed. You can download it only after 28 days.

As for the construction of a shallow strip foundation for a frame bath, this design works great on sandy and soft soils. To do this, a trench 500 mm deep and 300 mm wide is dug along the perimeter of the future building.

The pillow is filled with coarse sand or fine gravel. You can use gravel. Cushion thickness - 150-200 mm.
The reinforcing frame is installed. In principle, these can be any metal profiles interconnected by a knitting wire. Can be used flat frame in one layer. It must be installed on supports, for example, on bricks. It is very important that the grating is inside the concrete layer, and not between the pillow and the foundation.
If the soil is sandy, then you will have to install a full formwork. If clay, then you can get by with formwork located above the ground.
Concrete is poured using the same technology as with columnar foundation for a frame bath.

Do not forget to install anchors at the corners of the foundation structure and in the gap between them.

Bath frame assembly

First of all, a Mauerlat is installed (see video). These are beams with a section of 200x200 mm. They are installed on the foundation of the bath, the upper plane of which is waterproofed. This can be done using roofing material, laying it in two or three layers, or using bituminous mastic. Through holes are made in the beams for fastening with anchors, so it is worthwhile to accurately determine the location of these holes. The Mauerlat is fastened with a nut and washer for each anchor. Between themselves, the beams are fastened with metal corners on self-tapping screws.

Now, vertical racks of bars with a section of 150x150 mm are installed at the corners of the Mauerlat, and intermediate racks will also have to be arranged from them (see video). The risers are fastened with the same corners and self-tapping screws. So that when assembling the upper screed, the racks do not deviate from the vertical position, they must be additionally fixed with jibs and scarves from bars with a section of 100x100 mm or 80x80 mm.

Now you can install the upper Mauerlat from beams with a section of 150x150 mm or 100x100 mm. Its fastening is also made by corners. In principle, the frame of the bath is ready. As you can see, it was not difficult to build a frame structure with your own hands.

Installation of floors in a frame bath

It is necessary to understand the moment that the premises inside the frame bath bear their own specific loads, that is, each has its own purpose. Accordingly, the floors in different rooms will have to be built differently. For example, in the locker room, in the recreation area and in the steam room, wooden floors will look good. But in the washing room, where in large quantities water is pouring, it is better to install concrete base with a slight slope towards the drain and drainage of dirty water.

A frame bath is a building in which you need to take care of thermal insulation, so wooden floors will have to be insulated.

Logs are installed, which with their ends will rest against the Mauerlat elements. Fastening - corners from steel and self-tapping screws. As a log, you can use boards with a thickness of 40 or 50 mm, you can use beams 50x100 mm.
Along the lags along the lower edges, longitudinal slats break through.
Mounted on rails sheet material: plywood, moisture-resistant chipboard, metal, corrugated board and so on, can be used.
A heater (mineral or glass wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam plates) is laid in the interlag space.
A waterproofing membrane is laid along the logs, which is attached to them with metal staples, they are nailed with a stapler, you can use carnations with a wide hat.
Installation of grooved boards.

The concrete base in the washing room of the frame bath must also be insulated, therefore, the soil is removed in this place, perlite (fine river sand, it is a heater in this case), waterproofing (membrane or roofing material) is poured, concrete mortar is poured, forming the floor in washing. By the way, this can not be done if the frame bath will be used infrequently. You can simply lay the boards along the logs, between which leave gaps of 5 mm. A small amount of water will be absorbed into the soil, and in order to avoid an unpleasant odor, two must be left in the foundation of the frame bath. through holes, through which both moisture and smell will be removed outside to the street.

The construction of the walls of the frame bath

As for the walls, their main task is not only to create indoor conditions, but also to make the interior warm with minimal heat loss. This is especially important for a frame bath, plus everything is a side of saving money by reducing fuel consumption.

You can start finishing the frame both from the inside of the bath and from the outside. For the outer cladding of a frame bath, it is best to use sheet material: moisture-resistant plywood or chipboard, OSB boards. You can lining, and boards, and so on. For the interior decoration of the frame bath, the best option is lining.

For example, they sheathed the frame of the bath from the outside, go inside, where the process of thermal insulation of the walls is carried out. In order to increase the strength of wall structures, it is possible to mount a crate between the racks.

Attention! The insulation must be laid so that there are no gaps and cracks between it and the elements of the bath frame.

These are one hundred percent cold bridges, which will affect the quality of the building in terms of heat loss. We add that for frame baths it is better to use heaters with a foil side. This is another characteristic that will help reflect heat energy inside the bath.

Do-it-yourself installation and insulation of the ceiling of a frame bath

You can build a ceiling using the same technology as the floors - on logs. From the inside, the logs are sheathed with boards or moisture-resistant plywood. It is better not to use plywood in a steam room, it contains glue, which, when high temperatures begins to exude harmful substances.

Insulation will have to be carried out from the side of the attic. Before sheathing the ceiling of the frame bath with boards from the inside, you need to lay it on top of the log with your own hands. vapor barrier membrane. The insulation is placed in the interlag space without gaps and crevices, a waterproofing layer is installed on top, and with the last layer the structure is covered with durable material - the same plywood, chipboard, boards, etc., can be used.

Do-it-yourself frame bath roof construction

The shape of the roof of the frame bath can be any. The simplest is single-sided. Therefore, on the upper Mauerlat from the side of the facade of the frame bath, you need to install several racks of timber with a section of 100x100 mm. They are attached to the Mauerlat with metal corners. The number of racks determines the length of the facade of the frame bath at the rate of every 1.2-1.5 m. The height of the racks is up to 1 m.

A beam is laid on top of the installed supports, on which the rafter legs will rest at one end, in fact, these are boards 40-50 mm thick. The second end of the rafters rests against the back of the upper Mauerlat of the bath frame. You can fasten all this with corners, nails, wire. The distance between the rafters is 80-150 cm.

The next step is laying the crate. The elements of the crate can be slats with a section of 40x40 mm or 50x50 mm, or boards with a thickness of 30-50 mm, a width of 100 mm. Fastening is done with screws or nails. And the last - the installation of roofing material. The choice of coverage is up to the customer.

Conclusion on the topic

Here is a step-by-step instruction on how to build a frame bath with your own hands. Let's face it, this process is simple, if we compare it with the construction of baths from more fundamental materials. But in any case, you will have to familiarize yourself with all the nuances of building a frame bath. Therefore, we suggest watching the video that is posted on this page of our website. The way it will be for you is like a video instruction.

If you have your own plot, your own house or cottage, and at the same time you are an avid lover of a steam room, sooner or later you will start building your own bath. If you already have experience in building frame houses, then it will be easier for you to build a bathhouse with your own hands. If there is no experience, you will need a lot of theoretical information, and practical advice from the masters will never be superfluous.

Where to begin

So, you firmly intend to build a bath with your own hands. Answer the following questions first:

Where on the site will your shield building be located. Consider everything: the presence and location of the necessary communications, is there enough space for construction frame structure, do you want the bathhouse to be close to the house or located in the distance? Or maybe you want to have a free passage-corridor to the steam room from the house? In general, you should have a first idea of what you want as there are so many options.
Determine the quality of the soil, this will come in handy when building the foundation. If you have previously built something frame, then you already know what soils are on your site. Let me remind you that they can be sandy (with impurities of rock and other rocks), fine sandy (loose and extremely unstable) and clayey (subject to swelling in the cold season). Under the first type of soil, the simplest and lightest foundations are suitable, and under the second two, the foundation should be more reliable (although frame buildings rarely need heavy foundations).
Plan what rooms your building will consist of. Usually baths have a dressing room, a shower room and a steam room. However, you may want to have a terrace, a pool, an attic, or a more extended seating area.
Decide where the oven will be located as this affects the location ventilation system, pipes, chimney.
Think about how you want to see the roof of the bath. The more interesting the solution, the larger the roof, the more reliable it will be necessary to make rafters and frame ceilings.
Choose a company or store where the building material will be purchased. Ask where there are discounts or free shipping- it helps to save a lot.

How to draw a plan for a future building?

After you have decided on the main issues, it is time to start building. The first step is to draw with your own hands or purchase ready plan. You can purchase a ready-made bath plan from developers involved in frame construction. They already have several ready-made, proven solutions that they are happy to sell to you. An additional advantage may be the help of company representatives with the purchase of building materials or practical advice on assembling with your own hands.

However, if you want to do everything yourself, pay attention to the following tips:

Determine how many people on average your bath is designed for. If you often have guests, you can save on space by reducing the shower room and thereby increasing the dressing room or seating area. The shower room is traditionally the smallest room in the bath.
Even if you plan to steam alone or with a small company, do not make a very small steam room. The steam will be of poorer quality, and besides, you may not fit a three-level bench, which is needed to steam at different heights.
Consider creating a terrace.
It will not be superfluous to have a bathroom.
Locate several outlets in the break room. Then you can use electric kettle, listen to music and even connect a small refrigerator with soft drinks if necessary.
Consider window placement. The rest room should be the brightest, and the steam room can do without natural light at all. Do-it-yourself panel construction allows you to make windows anywhere.
Doors must be functional. From the shower, you must be able to immediately go to the steam room and the recreation area. It is better to place the bathroom closer to the shower room - it will be easier to lay communications.

Given all these factors, having decided on the budget, you can proceed to the choice of building materials.

Building materials: choose and buy

So, you start building the best frame resting place. It is necessary to determine what building materials you will need and calculate how much to purchase. To do this, you need to decide on the main stages of your work:

Foundation laying.
Frame installation.
Laying communications.
Wall insulation and insulation (internal and external).
Roof and chimney construction.
Interior decoration, furnace, pool, etc.
External lining.
Terrace device.

We considered laying the foundation in a separate article, you can read about it. I can only say that it is best to stay on a strip foundation - it is suitable for most soils, has a good bearing capacity and reliably protects the building from distortion. It can be easily built with your own hands. To create this type of foundation, you will need formwork and self-tapping screws for its assembly, concrete, reinforcement, stones, possibly crushed stone or sand. The foundation does not have to be deeply deepened - under light frame houses optimal height is 60 cm.

For further construction, you must purchase:

boards or beams for the construction of the frame
materials for vapor barrier, hydro and wind insulation
materials for thermal insulation
building materials for interior decoration
materials for external cladding
tools, screws, nails, etc.

Proper calculation of building materials helps to save cash and do not buy too much, and at the same time saves you time. Knowing the technology of frame construction, it is easy to calculate the amount of materials needed. To do this, you need to find the total area of your building, from which we subtract the area of \u200b\u200ball door and window openings. Separately, we calculate materials for the floor and ceiling.

Pay attention to the instructions for insulating and heat-shielding materials - they usually indicate how much material is needed to insulate a square meter. If there is no such instruction, check with the sales assistant. Frame buildings need good insulation.

Frame erection

Read about how to make a foundation for a frame bath. When it is ready, we make the frame.

Despite the fact that the construction of a bath is similar to any other frame construction, there are some peculiarities. The room itself is often in contact with moisture, and temperature fluctuations lead to faster wear of materials. Therefore, when erecting a frame, all wooden parts must be treated with special antiseptics, and preferably in several layers.

After you have made sure that the boards and beams are well dried and reliably protected by impregnations, we proceed to the construction of the frame.

To make a frame with your own hands, first of all, we tie the base. We mark the future walls, and cover the outer office with boards (section 50 × 100 mm). We fix with nails or screws. With the help of a support made of boards or timber, the basement trim is connected (the upper part of the building is connected in the same way). Timber or boards are laid horizontally. Use a level to check the accuracy of laying under a straight line.

If you notice a slight skew, correct it by placing small sections of the board under the undercut. Use several small boards in layers rather than one wide board.

When laying the intermediate studs, please note that you should be able to lay the thermal insulation and sheathing later. The distance between the axes should be no wider than half a meter, however, if there is a doorway in the wall, make a gap of 0.4 meters.

The step size of the racks depends on the size of the openings in which windows and doors will be mounted. It is necessary to erect an additional rack where the frame joins with other walls.

Usually the bath begins to gather from one of the corners of the planned premises. After erecting one wall, it must be checked for verticality with a tool. If everything is in order, it is fixed with the help of struts (temporary).

The remaining walls of the frame are also placed, later the corners are checked - they must be strictly 90⁰. Additionally, we fix the structure with nails and boards.

Steam, wind and waterproofing

Warming is best done with synthetic materials. This type of insulation is not so subject to changes in difficult operating conditions. It can be foam boards, polyurethane foam or polystyrene foam. Slabs or a rolled version of synthetic mineral wool or ecowool have proven themselves well. Installation of these types of insulation can be done by hand. The material is lightweight, does not require special skills and complex styling tools. Read more about warming a frame bath.

Shield technology involves the use of windproof materials. Wind protection is performed by the external decoration of the building, consisting of special membranes or foam boards.

For frame construction, the following types of waterproofing are used: protective films and membranes.

An air gap is necessary for ventilation. The drainage system is represented by water diverters.

water laying

Communications in the bath are the conduction of water and electricity. One of the main features of this non-residential premises is the need to drain water during frosts. If the water remains in the pipes, then turning into ice, it will burst the pipe.

To properly design a water supply system, determine where the points of water analysis will be located. You will most likely need to run water to a shower or bath, sink, hot water boiler, bathroom. Water can either come from your home, in which case the pipes will be connected to your home, or from a separate well or well. In the second case, the water heating tank will be filled with a pump. The pump is selected based on the height of the water, the diameter of the well and the required pressure in the system.

Pipes are best purchased from polypropylene. To mount them with your own hands, you need to try, but they will last longer than metal-plastic ones, in which rubber gaskets quickly fail.

Consider a filter system. You will need a coarse filter and a fine filter. The ball valve is located on the supply pipe. From him to pumping station put a filter and check valve. After that, a connection is made to the pumping station, while a line is drawn at the outlet. It leads directly to the water heating boiler, from which it will already be supplied hot water. The tee, which crashes here, gives rise to a highway through which cold water will flow.

The cold water supply taps of the planned water intake points of the frame building are connected to the tee. At the outlet of the water heating boiler, you will have a hot water supply line. Hot water taps should be connected here.

Features of conducting electricity

Electricity in the bath can be carried out in two ways:

Air way.
Underground way.

The air method is the passage of the cable through the air, and the underground method is the concealment of the cable in a trench into the ground. The first method is more economical, since it will require the installation of two supports (more supports will be required if the wire stretches more than 25 meters). The second method will require additional costs for digging a trench.

For aerial laying, a self-supporting insulated cable should be purchased, and for underground laying, a much more expensive VBbShv cable should be purchased. Unlike insulated, it is armored with copper conductors.

Any type of wire requires the installation of a metal sleeve that will protect the cable from deformation when entering the building. Without an iron sleeve, the cable may be damaged due to wall shrinkage and shear.

You will find more information about electrical wiring.

Which roof to choose?

The roof can be simple or complex. To simple species include single-pitched and double-pitched roofs. More complex ones have decorative and functional ledges. These ledges are constructed in the presence of an attic or attic. The roof can have one or more windows if there is a room under it.

A shed roof does not imply the presence of an attic or attic, however, its flatness can be used by equipping a place for sunbathing or for drying fruits, berries and mushrooms.

The simplest gable roof is the most popular - it almost does not accumulate snow in winter, it makes it possible to equip an attic, which is not too expensive financially and is easy to install. Passage to the attic can be made with the help of stairs from the recreation area. There you can store brooms or equip a billiard room.

Interior decoration

Most often, interior decoration is made of wood. You can use the following species: larch, linden, oak. Do not use pine or spruce, which emit resin when heated. If you want to use conifers, put them in a dressing room or seating area, away from the steam room.

The floor is best made of tiles, this is the most functional material for rooms with high humidity. Naturally, you need to choose a special tile - it does not collapse under the influence of water and has a rough surface, which reduces the possibility of slipping on a wet floor.

In no case should you use for interior decoration:

laminate (it does not tolerate moisture)
linoleum (when heated, it releases harmful substances)
Fiberboard and chipboard (also emit harmful substances contained in the adhesive)

Exterior finish

A beautiful bathhouse immediately betrays a good owner, so the owners always pay great attention to the appearance of this frame building. However, the external decoration of the bath also has a protective function. It can be made by hand from:

Terrace device

The presence of a terrace is a huge plus for your bath. It is installed quite simply, but as experience shows, it is used constantly. The terrace can be made of wood, but it is better to use special tiles.

To build a terrace, it is not necessary to make a foundation, it is enough to remove the fertile layer of earth and lay a layer of gravel for drainage, and a layer of sand on top. All this must be carefully tamped, sprinkled with water. The quality of tamping depends on the reliability of your terrace.

After laying the tiles, pay attention to the seams. It is best to seal them with special grouts that can withstand low temperatures. It is better to choose a tile from granite (the most common option), basalt or syenite. This tile is easy to clean, durable, not subject to abrasion. Concrete tiles, clinker and some synthetic materials. But it is better not to use ceramic tiles for terraces - they heat up too quickly and can leave burns.