Do-it-yourself timber house projects. Do-it-yourself construction of houses from timber: technology features

Wooden houses are popular among private developers who are planning to build a cozy home for their family. Recently, such structures are increasingly being built from timber. The technology of their construction is simple and clear.

Beam - we will equip a comfortable family nest ourselves!

Wooden beam is ideal for self erection private low-rise buildings. This material has beautiful appearance, excellent operational characteristics, it provides a microclimate favorable for a person in a dwelling under construction. A beam is understood as a log that is hemmed in on four sides. The result is a user-friendly wood product that can have a different cross section.

In most cases, private developers use rectangular or square bars. With the help of such hewn logs, it is easy to obtain perfectly even wall and floor surfaces with the same thickness without additional tricks. Subsequently, such bases are easily lined outside and inside, which allows you to create the most unusual and striking projects of wooden residential buildings.

The log house is being built in a short time. All work is carried out by 2-3 people without construction experience and special knowledge. For the construction of the structure of interest to us, it is allowed to use a beam made of various types of wood. Pine products delight with their beautiful texture and a wide selection of color shades. Spruce beams are optimal for the formation of visually flawless surfaces. This is due to their uniform texture and color. It is better not to use hewn fir logs for the construction of a private house. They look great. But the durability and strength of fir products is far from ideal.

Softwood is available at a cost. Larch bars are more expensive. But such products are considered truly practical. Houses made of larch have been standing for decades, they are not afraid of moisture, they please the eye with their attractive appearance. Theoretically, residential buildings can also be built from birch beams. Their price is significantly lower than the cost of larch products. But the quality of the finished building will be much lower. This should be remembered by all home craftsmen who decide to save on the cost of building materials.

Buildings from profiled and glued beams - what's the difference?

We can build a house from a bar using profiled or glued products. The technology of their application is almost completely the same. Profiled timber is more popular. It is characterized by a minimum moisture content and the same thickness.

Such products are obtained from solid logs that go through several stages machining. Profiled timber is equipped with spikes and grooves. These elements provide high-quality connection of individual products with each other. Also, the spike-groove system forms a thermal lock. Due to it, even the slightest cold is not able to penetrate inside the wooden house.

Glued laminated timber is made from pre-dried lamellas - individual boards with different thicknesses and lengths. Similar products are cheaper than profiled ones. At the same time, the durability of the buildings of them is the same. True, on one condition. Drying of glued products must be carried out according to a special technology. If it is not adhered to, reliability finished house will not be the highest. The connection of glued beams is also carried out according to the principle of groove - spike. Due to this, people without experience in carrying out construction work do not have problems with installation.

A novelty of the private construction market is rounded timber. It is not used very often yet, since its price is quite high. At the same time, houses made of timber of this type are distinguished by unique durability, quality and high environmental friendliness. Rounded material is produced in the form of cylindrical products carved from logs (there can be no other section). Their length reaches 470 cm. This makes it possible to build truly durable houses, which, moreover, do not need additional insulation. Visually, the building made of rounded wood looks like a fabulous chic house. It does not even need to be specially lined with any finishing materials. He looks great as it is.

Proper arrangement of the foundation for the durability of the home

In order for a log cabin to be as reliable as possible, care should be taken to build a quality foundation for it. The type of foundation is determined by the design of the dwelling (number of floors, total area, and so on), as well as the characteristics of the soil on the site. So, for example, a country house with a modest square is usually built on a solid slab base. But it is better to build a large-scale structure with an underground on a strip foundation. The base on screw piles is recommended for houses that are built on loose, silty, too wet soils.

In practice, most often private developers choose a strip foundation. It is easy to equip it yourself, without using special equipment. Moreover, the finished base is very reliable, able to withstand any load. Step-by-step instruction for the construction of such a foundation is given below:

1. Based on the selected project of the house, we mark it on the ground. We decide on the places where the internal load-bearing walls will be located.
2. Swarm according to the markup of the ditches. Important! In width, they should be 10 cm more than the thickness of the internal walls. The depth of the ditches is 0.6–0.8 m. In addition, we dig a pit for arranging the basement, focusing on the size of the latter.
3. We fill the bottom of the ditches with sand and gravel (the layer of each material is 10 cm). We moisten the resulting cake, we tamp it well. Pour on a sand and gravel pad concrete mix. Its thickness is about 5 cm.
4. We construct a removable formwork. We will need to assemble boards 2.5 cm thick into shields. These structures must rise 40–60 cm above the level of the ditches (the specific figure depends on the height of the foundation laid down in the construction project). From the outside, we fix the downed shields with support boards, and from the inside we install spacers. In this case, the formwork will not move when pouring concrete.

After that, we reinforce the formwork structure. The operation is performed using metal bars with a cross section of 1–1.2 cm. We lay them in two layers along and across the formwork. We fix the intersection points of the reinforcement with a knitting wire. Note! Hardware must not touch the formwork. Between them, be sure to leave a free space of 5-6 cm.

Now we prepare the concrete mixture for pouring. An ordinary mortar will do - 3 parts of sand to 1 part of M400 cement. You can make a batch with special additives (gravel, crushed stone). In this case, sand and additional components must be taken in 4 parts, and cement 1. We load the indicated materials into the concrete mixer, we get the required composition, we feed it into the formwork. Here you need to ensure that air bubbles do not appear in the foundation. The problem is solved by using a deep vibrating machine for cement. We leave the poured base for 3-4 weeks. Formwork can be removed after 20 days.

Building a house - we strictly adhere to technology!

After the foundation has hardened, we proceed directly to the construction of the house with our own hands. We install the first crown of the log house on the insulation, which we lay on the base in this order:

bitumen heated to a liquid consistency;
a layer of roofing material;
bitumen again;
another layer of ruberoid.

The insulation should be wider than the base by about 0.3 m. And the timber used must be treated with an antiseptic solution without fail. Special composition protects wood from pests and moisture, significantly increasing the service life of the timber. Some craftsmen apply an antiseptic to already erected buildings. You can't do that. We impregnate each product separately and only after that we build a house. Then we are guaranteed to achieve the penetration of the composition into all hard-to-reach places(for example, on the joints of individual logs). It is also desirable to further process wood materials flame retardant. It will keep the wood from burning.

After laying the waterproofing and processing the wood, we firmly fix the lining board on the foundation. It is advisable to use a larch product 5–6 cm thick. We fasten the board to the base of the building with anchors directly through the insulating cake. We immediately nail the ebb to the installed lining. He will divert water from the building during rain.

Sometimes you can hear the opinion that it is not necessary to mount the lining board. Here it is necessary to understand an important thing: the board acts as a buffer between the crown of the structure and its foundation. During the operation of the house, sooner or later we will have to carry out repairs to its lower part. Here we will find out why the board is needed. For repairs, it will be enough for us to replace only it, without touching the crown. The benefit, you see, is obvious.

By the way, the repair of the lower part wooden housing construction it will not be necessary soon if slats 1 cm thick are laid on the lining board. We fasten them to the lining across the base, maintaining a distance between separate elements at the level of 0.3 m. As a result, we obtain an effective ventilation gap. We mount the first crown on it (bars measuring 9x14, 14x14, 15x15 cm). The front sides of the products used can be convex or flat. It does not matter. Corner connections of the first circuit are made in half a tree. We cut logs into this crown for arranging the floor.

Assembling the log house - now everything will go like clockwork!

After laying the first crown, we proceed to the installation of the next circuit. It should be installed on a jute gasket. It eliminates the risk of mold formation between the wooden elements of the log house and condensation of its facade. We buy jute in any construction store. It is best to use pads in the form of needle-punched tapes. They are available in different thicknesses. Finding the right material is easy. We fix the lining with a construction stapler. Do not use linen or tow instead of jute. It is unrealistic to lay them evenly, which means that in any case, small gaps will remain in the log house.

We connect the bars to each other according to the spike-groove system, getting a really hard and secure fastening. In cases where it is conducted from products natural humidity(not subjected to drying in special chambers), you need to additionally fasten the crowns together with wooden dowels. We put them in a checkerboard pattern every two contours, maintaining a distance between the fasteners of 100 cm. We install the dowels to a depth of about 30 cm.

We collect the rest of the crowns in the same way. In places where doors and windows will be located, we leave part of the bars along the length of the wall. We will get a kind of lattice. It is not necessary to pre-cut all products for the parameters of the openings. In this case, the lumber will begin to bend during shrinkage. This will cause a change in the geometry of the house being built. We will cut out the extra pieces with a chainsaw only after the building has completely shrunk.

If the timber has a length less than the walls, you will have to correctly lengthen the lumber.

We need to connect individual products to each other. The procedure is performed by the method of dressing. We shift the seam (vertical) of each next crown in relation to the previous one. For high-quality articulation of joints, we make along the beam washed down into half a tree. It is also desirable to strengthen the connection made with dowels. The roof of a timber dwelling can be any. The easiest way is to cover the built house with a roof with two slopes. Such roofs are built quickly and have excellent performance characteristics. More on this later.

Gable roof - how to build an aesthetic and practical roof?

We construct Mauerlat from a bar 15x15 cm. We fix it to the crown with anchor bolts, dowels, brackets. The rafters will rest on the Mauerlat. It is desirable to connect them with each other using a sled. They are a special steel mount, consisting of two parts. In the process of shrinkage of the log house, the sled allows the rafters to change the angle. An important point. When using other fastening options (for example, a triangular cut made on the Mauerlat to engage the rafters), the probability of structural deformation during shrinkage increases significantly.

The truss system itself is made in the form of a frame that determines the configuration of the roof. The latter is indicated in the project according to which we are building a house. The length of the rafters, the step of their installation and the angle of inclination are also set there. Most often, the truss system is constructed from a beam 5–7 cm thick, 16–18 cm wide. These elements are connected to each other with metal plates and according to the spike-groove scheme.

constructed roof structure we cover with a layer of vapor barrier, and on top we make a crate and a counter-crate from wooden slats 20 mm thick. We take into account the following. If we install slate sheets or profiled products on the roof, the crate is mounted in increments of 0.3 m. And for laying tiles, the frame should be made solid. Installation of the crate is carried out across the rafters. We use nails for fastening. We fill the counter-lattice along the rafters.

We warm gable roof mineral wool. We use for these purposes a heat insulator in the form of mats. We place them between the rafters, and then close them with the chosen lining - drywall, clapboard. Warming is always done if the attic is planned to be made residential. In other cases, thermal insulation is not required.

Final work - making the house perfect

At the assembly stage of the construction, we equip the floors in the form of draft flooring, laid on beams or logs. After completion of construction, we make a final and rough foundation. Be sure to insulate the floors in the attic and basement level (mineral wool will do). We finish the bases with laminate or other materials.

Insulation and cladding of a residential building from a bar is produced after its shrinkage. The period required for this varies widely. Structures made of glued laminated timber can be finished 3-4 months after their construction, from profiled timber - after 5-6. If wet material was used, it will take a year and a half to shrink at home. Will have to wait.

After shrinkage, you need to caulk the timber. The operation is long, laborious and unpleasant. We will need to manually fill in all the gaps and microscopic cracks found outside and inside the house. For caulking, we use pieces of jute fiber. The ceiling in a timber dwelling is recommended to be sheathed with wooden clapboard. You can use other materials. We finish the ceiling surface strictly after caulking all the cracks.

Often, the external and internal decoration of log cabins made of wood is performed as simply as possible - the bases are painted. Nuance. We choose compositions for painting that not only satisfy individual aesthetic needs, but are also able to protect the timber from the negative effects of ultraviolet radiation and moisture.

Choose a suitable log house project from profiled or glued beams. And build your dream home!

The decision to build a house from a bar is not taken immediately and not suddenly. It's just that this technology, with a simpler assembly of walls, allows you to get excellent characteristics for housing: for the Moscow region, a beam of 195 mm thick is enough. With such a thickness of the outer walls, it will be warm, but to save on heating, it is better to insulate it (outside 10 mm of mineral wool) and make a ventilated facade. Then there will be more savings on heating.

Plasticity in processing is one of the advantages of wood

What wood to choose

Coniferous wood is usually used to build a house. There are several reasons. Firstly, the high content of resins, which are natural preservatives and antiseptics. Due to their presence, the wood is not destroyed for a long time. Secondly, affordable price. You can, of course, build a house from beech or oak timber, but the price will be simply sky-high. Thirdly, the wood is soft and easy to process.

Of all conifers, most often they put a house from a pine beam. With good performance, it is relatively inexpensive. Houses made of larch and cedar are rarely built: they are too expensive. From spruce even less often, but for a different reason: it is destroyed the fastest, and even difficult to process. So, regarding the type of wood, there is, in fact, no choice. 95% is pine. But with the type of timber you need to understand.

According to the processing method, timber happens:

Ordinary or solid, unplaned timber. Sawn from a solid log, the section is a quadrilateral (square or rectangle).
Profiled bar. It is also sawn from a solid log, but after it is processed: spikes and grooves are formed with milling cutters - profiles with which one beam is joined to another. The side faces are also processed. They come out of the machine already planed. The section is of complex shape. The side faces can be even, rounded, curly - with chamfers, the shape of the "castle" - numerous beards and recesses.
Glued beam. Outwardly similar to profiled, but assembled (glued) from several boards.

We will analyze the features of each type of timber, regarding the construction of a house.

House made of ordinary timber

If earlier they said that they decided to build a house from a bar, then they clearly understood the usual rectangular bar. There was simply no other, or it was too expensive: it was brought from abroad. Ordinary timber is the most affordable, if we take the cost per cubic meter. But, as a result of all the required measures, the cost of construction may be higher than from a profiled one. It's all about the characteristics of the material. They lead to significant additional costs even at the construction stage: when building a house from unplaned timber, interventional insulation is necessarily used. Its geometry is not ideal, and if this is not done, it will be very strong to blow through the gaps between the crowns. The second feature is that the surface of the walls turns out to be uneven and one cannot do without finishing inside and outside.

In addition to laying the interventional layer, the delivered log house is caulked, additionally sealing the seams. A caulk is needed not one, but at least two, sometimes more. And all because it is made from wood of natural moisture. In practice, this has the following consequences:

Another feature of a house made of ordinary timber: the walls are uneven. To give them a “decent” look, they are either sheathed with finishing materials or polished. But grinding is a controversial undertaking: the interventional sealant makes it almost impossible. Even if you manage to grind the timber, where to put the seams?

So it turns out that the cost of the house as a result may be more: add interventional insulation, material for caulking and the work itself (and it is not cheap), the cost of exterior and interior decoration to the cost of the timber. Please also note that moldings are brought to your site - bars of the ordered length. The bowls are sawn on the spot. This means that the qualifications of carpenters must be high. How the cut is made determines how warm the corners will be. And in log house It is the corners that are the most problematic place.

Features of profiled timber

Considering a profiled beam, the first thing that catches your eye is the almost perfect geometry and smooth surfaces. Anyway, that's how it should be. At good quality finishing is not needed: the wall immediately turns out to be even and smooth, even immediately for painting.

The second, also quite obvious feature, is due to the fact that the edges that join two profiled beams have recesses and protrusions (locks) through slots cannot be. Manufacturers of profiled timber say that it is possible to lay walls without interventional insulation: it will be warm anyway. But few people listen to them. They put at least a thin, but a heater. Someone uses a thin substrate for a laminate, someone uses a self-expanding tape for mounting plastic windows, as well as jute tape and similar materials.

In the photo, by the way, the most common profile among developers lately is the “comb”. It can have a “tooth” of different heights and widths, and is loved by everyone because, in theory, it is impossible to “blow through” it. However, even here they insure themselves by laying insulation.

Several typical beam profiles (the two on the far right in the picture are glued beams, but profiled beams are made of exactly the same profile)

In general, there are a lot of profiles. Some of them are in the photo. When choosing a supplier, it is necessary to pay attention not only to the shape of the locks, but also to how they are made. Matching in any pair should be maximum.

Having decided to build a house from a bar with a profile, you need to decide on its moisture content. Profiled timber can be of natural humidity (cheaper), it can be chamber dried with a moisture content of no more than 14-16%. Features of lumber of natural moisture have already been considered, now let's talk about chamber drying. The company installs large drying cabinets, into which the finished profiled timber is loaded. There, at elevated temperatures, it loses excess moisture. At the same time, all the processes that usually accompany the drying of wood take place in the chamber: it bursts, it twists. Accordingly, part goes into marriage, and the rest is sold at a higher price. The reasons seem to be clear.

If you decide to build a house from kiln-dried timber, you can start finishing earlier. The log house should still stand, but it will take 9-12 months. At the same time, new cracks are rarely formed, only existing ones expand. But it should be borne in mind that due to the high cost of drying, most often they only reduce the humidity to operational - 16-18%, while chamber drying is considered wood 8-12%.

Either way, gaps will need to be sealed. Caulking is needed in a very limited quantities: first of all, you will have to look at all the corners and cuts, if any (this is the name of the places where the walls are attached). Even a well-made bowl can dry out unevenly, causing a gap to appear. Also, the beam can turn out, which will also lead to the appearance or expansion of the gap. So a periodic revision of the corners is also required during operation. Wood is a living material and will change all the time. Also, after a year of sludge, too large cracks in the timber will have to be repaired (without fanaticism, so that the tow does not open the crack).

The frame is assembled from numbered blanks with a molded bowl (numbers in blue on the ends)

It may be easier with the assembly. If you simply order lumber, you can cut corners from a profiled beam, as from a regular one, on the site. But many enterprises, in the presence of a project, offer to take on part of the work. With the help of a special program, they make a layout on the beam: they make a list of "spare parts" from which the house will be assembled. Then, according to this list, blanks are cut out, and with molded thickets. The blanks are numbered and brought ready to the site, where it remains to fold the house, like a designer: folding the bars according to the numbers marked on the plan.

This is convenient, especially if you are going to cost a house with your own hands without construction experience. It is clear that the service is not free, but you can save on paying for carpenters: it is not required to assemble such a highly qualified designer. Only in this case, whether your house will be warm or not depends on how accurately the bowls are made at the factory. Sometimes there are companies that make very low-quality cuts. You can see a few of these in the photo.

Poorly made bowls - it will blow incredibly, and the caulk will not save you well

In general, there are pluses and minuses, but compared to ordinary timber, profiled is more convenient in construction, and at a price it can also come out cheaper, if you count with finishing.

Glued laminated timber

It is clear from the name that it consists of glued parts. First, the lamellas are sawn, they are treated with antiseptics, dried to a certain humidity, then glued. Due to the complex manufacturing process, the price tag of this material is approximately 2.5-3 times higher than that of conventional and 80-90% than profiled.

What are its advantages? Properly made, it does not crack, it does not lead: dry material cannot shrink, and glued beads should have a moisture content of no higher than 12-15%. Therefore, the finishing process, with a beam width sufficient to compensate for heat loss, can only be reduced to painting or varnishing, since protective impregnation is also carried out at the enterprise (should, in any case).

What does glued laminated timber and its profiles look like?

Another consequence of the lack of shrinkage is that after a few weeks the folded frame can be immediately put under the roof, and after a few more weeks you can start finishing. This time is necessary for the shrinkage of the bowls, and the geometric dimensions of the glued beam should not change. That is, a significant time saving is obtained - everything, including finishing work, can be done in one season.

But is glued beads really that good? In terms of build speed, yes. But it has serious shortcomings. First: it is glued. What crosses out one of the main advantages of wood - environmental friendliness. Secondly, its vapor permeability is low. Many people choose wooden houses precisely because of their ability to naturally regulate the humidity in the room. Glued laminated timber is deprived of this due to the presence of layers of glue. Of all the advantages of wood, only an attractive one remains. appearance, but finished with a clapboard of the corresponding profile or a block house, it looks exactly the same. Therefore, the use of glued laminated timber for building a house is a very controversial issue.

Stages of building a house from a bar

A log house has several advantages:

The walls are light, which is why the load on the foundation is low, which means that the cost of its installation will be lower.
Wood is an elastic material and it compensates for small movements in the foundation without compromising the integrity of the building. And this, again, allows you to make shallow foundations on well-draining soils.

The choice of the type of foundation depends largely on the soil, but most often they do it, if there is no need for a basement, you can put a columnar one (for small buildings temporary residence - dachas, baths, etc.) or or without). The choice should preferably be based on the results of geological studies. The process is described in more detail.

While the foundation is “setting”, prepare the wood. All timber and dowels are treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. Use compositions that do not form a film on the surface of the log. They will not interfere with the drying process. After preparing the timber, the actual construction of the house begins:

Cut-off waterproofing. So that the wood from the foundation does not draw moisture, it is necessary to lay a layer of hydrophobic material. Previously, two layers of roofing material were laid under the first crown. Today there are more modern materials - coating and rolled. You can use them, and in combination: coat, stick rolled.
Laying crown crown. The beam is chosen without signs of blue, with a minimum number of knots. Preferably - from the middle part of the tree - with the maximum density of annual rings. It is additionally treated with impregnations designed for wood in direct contact with the ground. In order to ensure better preservation of the first crown, there is a trick: a wide board impregnated with bituminous mastic with processing. Another layer of waterproofing is placed on it, and on top - the first crown. All these layers are connected to the foundation with studs, which are poured into the foundation.
Draft floor. Floor logs are attached to the first crown - a bar with a section of 150 * 100 mm. They are laid out in increments of at least 70 cm. To make it more convenient to work, the subfloor boards are laid out along the logs without nailing them.
Assembly of walls from a bar. If a wall kit with ready-made bowls is not ordered, they are “slaughtered”. Cut out according to the pattern. A template is drawn from a piece of plywood, it is outlined, then it is cut out. More often use a chainsaw, but it takes quite high degree tool ownership: how warm the house will be depends on the accuracy of the gashing. The forms of connecting the beam are in the picture.

We have already talked about laying interventional insulation: when using an ordinary beam, it is mandatory, under a profiled one it is desirable in bowls, the rest is optional. Between themselves, the crowns are connected by dowels - long round bars, machined from whole piece wood, dowels - rectangular shape or studs - metal rods. In any case, a hole is drilled under the connection, into which the connecting element is hammered.

The order of work depends on the type of roof chosen. When arranging a simple installation, rafter legs are installed, with a different order. A windproof membrane is rolled out and fixed onto the assembled truss system. In this form, the house is left for a long time to shrink.
Door and window openings. For speedy shrinkage and shrinkage, you can cut window and door openings, put a pigtail or fixing strips. Door and window blocks are not installed until the end of the main shrinkage.

After a year or two, you can start finishing work. All the time while the log house is settling, it is necessary to monitor the processes occurring in the wood. It is immediately necessary to inspect the corners and, if necessary, caulk them. Then monitor their condition, as well as the joints of the timber. If the dowels were driven in with great effort, during shrinkage, the timber may hang on them, which causes cracks to form. You can solve the problem by hanging around: they take a huge wooden hammer and knock on the walls, causing faster shrinkage. The same technique is used if the house sits too slowly.

The video shows the main stages of how to build a house from a bar. Despite the lyrical digressions, a lot of valuable information.

How to build a house from a bar: photo report

They built such a house.

We ordered a wall kit according to the project, a strip foundation was poured under it.

They brought blanks with sawed-down bowls. They were carefully unloaded, while examining for flaws. One beam turned out to be problematic - it was in the middle of the bundle and suffocated - it was covered with a fungus. It was postponed for a separate "treatment". The rest were covered with impregnation (Valti Pohjust) and stacked.

So that there are no problems with the fungus, a gasket is laid under each - boards lying across.

Also, rolls of insulation and dowels were purchased. Nagels were sent to bathe in impregnation. V old bath poured impregnation and left them for half a day, then took them out and dried them.

On the waterproofing laid on the foundation, the first crown was laid out - a half-beam. It has no grooves at the bottom.

It was pulled to the foundation with anchors to studs cast into concrete.

Laid the first crown. The one that was previously fixed on the foundation is often called "zero".

Let's change the diagonals. In order for the cups to fit without problems and there is no skew, they must be equal. The allowable skew is a couple of millimeters.

Having aligned the diagonals, we drill holes for the dowels. So that there were no holes larger / smaller than necessary in length, a limiter tree was planted on the drill.

The walls are gradually growing. In a checkerboard pattern, we fasten them with dowels.

In general, the timber is more or less normal, but there are problems with incorrectly sawn cups. When laying the timber, we get a huge gap. The only way to deal with this is to manually adjust the cups so that everything lies flat.

It takes a lot of time to eliminate these inconsistencies, but gradually all the walls are laid out.

Walls made of profiled timber are driven out

Let's start assembling truss system. First, as is customary, two extreme farms are installed, then everything else, according to the project.

The finished crate was sheathed with roofing material. Let's leave the house to dry.

Inside we lay out the boards of the subfloor, nailing every fifth. They will dry with the house.

General tips for self-building a house from a bar.

1. The “gold standard” for timber is considered to be a section of 100x150 or 150x150 mm.

2. Tree annual rings should be evenly spaced along the entire length of the timber, preferably in its center.

3. Coniferous trees are the undisputed leaders among the suppliers of raw materials for future beams.

4. All beams used must be the same in length, width, curves, thickness, and so on.

First, we make drawings of the future home, make measurements on the ground and the corresponding calculations. You can sketch a project of a house from a bar yourself or turn to specialists. After creating the project, we determine the amount of the required material, purchase it, and we can begin direct work on the house.

Before choosing what type of foundation you will lay under the base of the house, you will need to answer questions such as:

- what features of the structure can affect the foundation?

- what type of soil prevails in your area and how far from the surface is groundwater?

It will also be necessary to take into account a number of desirable recommendations for arranging the foundation:

- if piles are involved in the process of work, then it is also recommended to use a grillage so that there are no gaps between the ground and the house;

- the lower crown should be located above the ground at a distance of at least 50 cm;

- if reinforcement is used for the construction of the foundation, then its knitting in places of strong bends is permissible only with the help of metal fasteners manually, but it is better not to use welding - this can destroy the very structure of the material.

The most popular options for the foundation for a house made of timber are tape, shallow and pile. Tape is good for buildings with cellars and basements, shallow - for sandy soil, pile - for loose and all other types of soil.

The first crown is usually laid on additional boards to avoid possible moisture on the timber. These boards are impregnated with antiseptics and act as a kind of link between the foundation and lower crown. Under them, you can also lay waterproofing - this will provide decent protection from moisture from the surface of the earth.

Also, the first crown can be placed on the cross rails, immediately leaving small gaps between them for proper ventilation of the base. Because of this, this option is considered more rational.

An important point - when laying the crowns, you should constantly monitor the correct height of the structure, and using the building level - monitor the evenness of the laying of the timber and the entire surface as a whole.

The crowns are fastened together with special dowels, grooves or ridges, and corner joints are made in half a beam / in a bowl / paw / warm corner (optional). In addition, they crash into the first or second crown construction logs for the flooring of the future floor. A sealant (for example, jute) must be laid between all the crowns.

At the same time, during the laying of the crowns, all seams and joints must be sealed, and the walls must be impregnated with fire protection solutions.

To create openings you can try next option- in the places of the planned doors and windows, the bars can be laid out shorter at the distance from each other into which your window or future door will fit. When using this technology, dowels should be mounted on both sides of the opening.

If this method seems too laborious to you, then cutting out suitable holes in a solid wall structure from a bar is another option, however, in this case, you will have extra building material that could initially be used with greater benefit. Although, on the other hand, the use of this method will make it possible to more accurately calculate the parameters of windows and doors, since cutting can be done at the stage of complete drying of the timber and acquiring the final appearance after shrinkage.

It is customary to make floors in houses made of timber in the same way as in any wooden building - in the form of flooring on logs or special beams that serve as ceilings. We put a draft and finishing floor with additional thermal insulation and insulation. Flooring remains at the discretion and imagination of the owner, and the ceiling is already done at the finish line, in the complex for finishing work - it can be sheathed with siding, clapboard, and so on, or you can leave hanging beams and additional ceilings as decoration.

We take care of the roof.

If you don’t be smart, then it’s probably better not to find an ordinary gable roof option. This type of roof involves the rigid fastening of the rafters and the arrangement of additional frame gables. The roof itself can also be made of wood - it is assembled from bars on the ground, then lifted up and fixed in the form of a single bar. On top of such a rafter system, a crate is mounted, on which the direct material for the construction of the roof is attached - tiles, slate, ondulin, metal tiles.

During the final drying of the timber from which the house is built, the formation of gaps in the structure is almost inevitable, through which valuable heat will be lost. In this regard, it is better to caulk all seams, joints and alleged weak points with jute even before this stage.

It will also be useful to paint the walls of a house made of timber - in addition to external beauty, varnishes and paint will protect the tree from UV rays and precipitation. Before painting, of course, it would be useful to grind the entire surface of the walls.

But as for such popular finishing options as the use of siding, sandwich panels and the like, then it is undoubtedly worth considering - log houses are mostly good on their own (see photo) and do not require additional decoration. The maximum that is allowed here is the use of varnishes and paints. However, this side of the issue always remains at the discretion of the owner of such a structure.

The minimum set of tools that you should have at hand:

- an ax and a hammer;

- nails, self-tapping screws, screws, dowels;

- jute or other thermal insulation material;

- electric screwdriver;

- perforator;

- building level and tape measure;

- electric drill and power saw.

About what else will be useful to know for building a house from a bar, we look at the video.

Each person should have a roof over their heads, which can be an apartment in a multi-storey building or private house. And if it is enough for women to earn money for apartments, draw up a sale and purchase transaction and move in, then men, according to the ancient Russian rule, need to build this house with their own hands. And this is a great option to discover new abilities in yourself and at the same time decently save on hiring professional construction workers. You can comprehend the art of building wooden houses on your own. The main thing is to choose the right material and technology for the construction of a residential building.

There are no gaps in the house made of timber, since all structural elements are tightly joined to each other, excluding heat from escaping to the outside.

Most often they tend to choose wooden structures, for example, glued beams or rounded logs. The technology of their construction is the same, but the quality of the materials is different. You can build a house from a bar with your own hands with 2-3 assistants. Heavy equipment is not needed for this, but you only need to purchase:

concrete mixing machine;
a pump with which concrete is supplied;
chainsaw;
winch;
and other small carpenter's tools, with which you can not only assemble a log house, but also adjust, if necessary, its constituent elements.

What should the house look like?

Photo #1. The height of the boards above the level of the trench should be at least 40 cm.

A do-it-yourself house, the building material for which will be timber, can be built not too high - no more than 3 floors. Such qualities of this lumber guarantee a favorable indoor climate, Beautiful design and durability of service, of course, subject to the instructions and proper operation of the premises. The advantage of using a beam is that, unlike a log, it has flat edges that allow you to spend less effort and time on subsequently making the internal and exterior finish building. At the same time, this design will allow you to strengthen absolutely any accessories on the walls, with the help of which the interior interior will be decorated. Moreover, the use of this kind of wood excludes the release of heat to the outside due to the fact that the components wooden house tightly adjacent to each other.

Photo #2. Ready solution The consistency should be similar to thick sour cream.

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Initial stages of construction

Everyone knows that every building must have a foundation under it, on which depends how long the house will stand and how it will serve.

Wood has a fairly heavy weight, and therefore requires the construction of a solid, reliable foundation, in no way inferior to that which is laid, for example, under a stone building.
Photo #3. Steel wire or metal mesh is used to reinforce the foundation.

If you are planning to make a cellar under the house or basement, then you should choose the traditional tape type of foundation. But by deciding important question, it is not enough to take into account only the practical features of the building, it is also important to assess the condition of the soil that prevails on the site allocated for construction. It is good if the soil is predominantly sandy, on which you can create any, even a shallow foundation, but not everyone is so lucky. In most cases, the site has moist, viscous and loose soil, right decision in this case, the use of a pile foundation will become. small size house can be built reinforced concrete slab, which will serve as a subfloor for the first floor.
The pile-grillage version of the foundation is similar in its method to the tape one, however, in this case, metal piles are also wrapped in the trenches. It is used on loose soils, which are characterized by an increased level of freezing. The most popular option is tape, which is able to withstand huge loads, while it can be erected without the use of heavy equipment - only with the help of a shovel, reinforcing mesh and concrete mortar. This type of foundation is best suited for building a private house. To begin with, carefully determine the perimeter of the future house and proceed to marking the territory, indicating its position on the spot, taking into account internal partitions and walls.

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Construction of a strip foundation for a house made of timber

Photo #4. The first crown of the beam is laid on the transverse rails, the gaps will provide ventilation in the house.

It is necessary to mark the trenches so that their width exceeds the width of the home walls by 10 cm. At the digging stage, if you need to create a basement, you need to dig a hole under it according to the dimensions that you would like to have. It is necessary to lay the foundation to a depth that exceeds the level of soil freezing, therefore, trenches are dug at least 60 cm deep. Fill their bottom sand cushion, the layer of which is 10 cm, another 10 cm of gravel or crushed stone is placed on top of it. The sand must be moistened with clean water and compacted, which ensures sufficient density of the base, concrete foundation will not sag.

After that, a removable formwork is organized, to create which you need to take unedged boards 2.5 cm thick and put together fences from them, which are located around the entire perimeter of the foundation, making a kind of stretching of trenches in height (photo No. 1). At the same time, the boards should rise above the level of the trench by at least 40 cm. The external and internal parts of the formwork for the fortress must be pulled together using a board nailed between them. Inside the foundation, it is necessary to lay reinforcement, which will significantly strengthen the foundation of the building. As reinforcement, it will be possible to use a metal mesh or steel wire(photo #3). Then proceed to mixing the concrete solution, with which the dug trenches will be filled. So, to create the perfect mixture, take 1 part M400 cement, 3 parts river sand, 5 parts gravel and 200 g of plasticizer. All these ingredients are mixed in a concrete mixer, where another 13-14 liters of water are gradually added.

Subsequent crowns are joined together by grooves or ridges, which are located on the upper and lower ends of the timber.

A well-mixed solution should resemble the consistency of thick sour cream (photo No. 2). It is sent into the trench with the help of a special pump for concrete. Make sure that air bubbles do not form in the structure of the poured concrete; for this, and in order for the foundation surface to be even, you need to use a cement vibrator. The uncured solution is wetted from above with water. This is necessary to prevent a very rapid hardening of the solution. In order for it to dry completely and gain strength, construction site should be left alone for about 1 month, after which it will be possible to continue work.

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Do-it-yourself technology for building a building from a bar

There are several ways to build log house, recently, frame construction, which has long been known abroad - in Europe and Canada, has gained great popularity. This method is easy to build and economical. However, it is not suitable for all climatic zones of the Russian Federation. Therefore, the surest option would be to follow the classical technology of building a house. As a building material, it is necessary to use the tree that will contain such qualities as strength, durability, durability and ease of processing. They are possessed by several tree species at once, but larch, spruce and pine can be called the most accessible. No one forbids, of course, the use of cedar in work, but it is too expensive.

So, bringing construction material, start laying out the first crowns, which will serve as the basis for the log house. The first beam under the house with your own hands must be laid on a foundation covered with two layers waterproofing material, for example, roofing material, which is shifted with bitumen and heated, practically melting it. Before laying the timber on the prepared surface, all lumber should be treated with an antiseptic solution, which will protect the wood from decay and damage from insect pests. Along with this, flame retardant compounds are used that protect the wood from the danger of combustion. You will need to impregnate each log separately. Sometimes construction companies supply already processed beams, which cost an order of magnitude more expensive than unprocessed ones.

In order to attach the first crown to the foundation, you can use one of two options:

lay it on a support board;

lay on the cross rails.

The latter option looks more practical, since it can be used to organize an additional gap, due to which ventilation in the house will be ensured. To do this, prepare several rails, the thickness of which is 1 cm. They are attached to the foundation lining in a transverse arrangement in increments of 30 cm. Do not forget to check the evenness of the surface being created building level, with the help of which the evenness of laying the beam with a section of 15x15 cm is also regulated (photo No. 4).

Natural wood is environmentally friendly and incredibly noble, so it is valued at all times, despite the fact that construction market occupied innovative materials. The construction of log houses for year-round or seasonal living has reached a qualitatively new level due to the huge number of advantages of the material, as well as improved methods of its processing and installation.

Such a dwelling has an attractive appearance, which is important, especially for people who value aesthetics in everything. What kind of material is this and what is needed to build a house from a bar, this instruction will tell.

Choice of wood type

Before you get acquainted with the design itself and find out the features of its installation, we suggest considering the characteristics of the types of wood used for these purposes. Currently, manufacturers prefer softwood:

pine;
fir;
larch.

Distinctive properties of wood species

Very rarely, but still, in this segment there are also deciduous trees, for example, birch. It may mistakenly seem that coniferous materials are identical, but they have significant differences, and we cannot but mention them:

spruce and fir are considered the most affordable;
spruce allows you to achieve a uniform color, since such material is characterized by ideal uniformity;
fir has very beautiful fibers, but unfortunately it is less short-lived. 2 years after the log house is ready, you will find that some of the fibers will begin to darken;
country houses made of larch are the most practical, because such material is absolutely not afraid of a humid environment, it is durable, and this is precisely its advantages;
birch timber is popular because of the affordable price, but the quality here is also not high, which is not suitable for the construction of suburban dwellings, so experts categorically advise against considering such wood, as well as fir, as a raw material, since here the minuses clearly outweigh the pros.

Wood Moisture Meter - Needle Moisture Meter

Before proceeding with the assembly of the log house, you need to pay attention to the moisture content of the timber. Without checking its level, which should be within 23%, the material cannot be used. If you neglect this rule, after some time you may encounter severe cracking of the structure. Therefore, at the acceptance stage, we recommend purchasing or renting a moisture meter, with which you can easily measure the moisture content of the incoming timber.

Now the blanks are dried either natural way or with dryers. In the first case, we are faced with a long process, so modern manufacturers prefer chamber drying. Such a process occurs quickly, but here the cost of paying for the energy carrier increases, the material becomes more expensive and this affects the final cost for the buyer.

Description and characteristics

A beam is a log with beveled edges, mostly square in section, which can have various section sizes. This configuration is full of advantages, and above all, it is the consistency of the thickness along the entire length, which simplifies the finishing process. suburban buildings. Also here you can save on insulation. Wood acquires special properties after it has been treated with special impregnations that protect against moisture, combustion, and putrefactive processes.

Connection of elements

The connection of the bars can be carried out in various ways:

thorn-groove;
in half;
butt;
on dowels, etc.

The simplest bunch can be called “butt”, and it is with such a system that the products from which economy-class country log cabins are built are equipped. You can assemble it yourself easily and quickly, but you need to remember about the “cold” lock, which needs to be additionally insulated to prevent drafts and cold air masses from entering the living quarters.

The butt joint is the coldest, therefore it requires additional insulation. Try to use a different type of joint.

Profiled timber

It has a special comb geometry of the joint, which makes the connection very tight and windproof. Now it is very often for year-round living that structures are built from just such a material, because it has undeniable advantages over ordinary timber.

Profiled timber is made from solid logs that are planed on all sides, have an ideal moisture level, and are of the same thickness along the entire length.

Pros and cons of profiled material

The advantages of this technology include:

simple installation scheme;
strictly verified dimensions of lumber, set by professional equipment;
joints in the form of planting bowls and grooves prevent cracking of wood during year-round operation

glued construction

The production of products of this type consists in the use of lamellas glued together. In order for the finished product of modern industry to be durable and serve for a long time, the drying process is carefully controlled. The technological instruction for gluing individual segments involves the placement the best varieties wood in the outer part of the glued beam.

Between themselves, the bars are fastened with spikes and grooves, which is very practical and easy to implement. The technology for the construction of such houses is available even for inexperienced developers, so that everyone can do most of the work with their own hands. Finished construction lightness, the frame is resistant to decay, its elements do not crack and are not afraid of aggressive manifestations of the environment.

Construction technology

Now the most popular are single-story log cabins, but you can choose any project for yourself, including several levels, it all depends on the wishes and capabilities of the developers. Consider a step-by-step scheme for the construction of a country log house.

Foundation

First of all, you need to choose the type of foundation. It must be strong enough to reliably support the weight of the house with the roof. You can opt for - this is the most common and versatile option.

Strip foundation- the most popular type for a house made of timber

But if the soil on the site is loose, give preference, and the scheme for laying it looks like this:

the marking of the site is carried out with the allocation of the boundaries of the future house;
a trench is dug with a depth below the freezing point of the soil (at least 60 cm);
the trench is supplied with a sand and gravel cushion, while each layer is rammed to squeeze air out of loose rocks;
concrete mortar is poured.

The device of house structures

The first crown is laid on top. Its function can be performed by an ordinary roofing material laid on a foundation screed. Make sure that the roofing material is 35 - 40 cm wider than the finished base.

It is very important that all wooden elements are pre-treated with antiseptic agents, because even if you mount country buildings made of heavy-duty wood, it may eventually lose its properties under the influence external factors, which will lead to rotting of the material and, as a result, to deformation of the structure.

Features of the connection of the crowns

The strength of the timber walls is ensured by a special fastening method. The frame is assembled using the tenon-groove method. The starting board must be firmly fixed to the foundation, and it is laid both on the insulation and on the frame (crate) knocked down from the rails. The crowns are connected with each other by wooden or metal dowels.

Sealing of rows and insulation of joints with jute cloth and plait

All subsequent crowns are mounted on a seal that prevents condensation and mold infection. Thanks to the interventional sealant, the log house acquires additional strength and tightness.

Corner connections

Beam extension

Due to inexperience, it may seem that the disadvantage of a log cabin is the mismatch between the length of their walls and the length of the log, but this is absolutely not a problem if you ensure high-quality joining of the seams. All that is needed in this case is to slightly shift each next joint, which will avoid the formation of a long continuous seam. This method is vaguely reminiscent of bandaging brickwork and it is quite simple to implement.

Roof and floors

Floor laying is also carried out according to the standard.

The flooring can be laid in several ways, but the most optimal option is “floating” floors, because they do not create noise and vice versa, thanks to their special design, they absorb extraneous sounds. We recommend that you read the article about.

Comparing the pros and cons of technology and the construction process, it's safe to say that the benefits here outweigh by a huge margin. If you don't have finished dacha, but there is a plot and a strong desire to have your own house, we advise you to opt for a log house.