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In modern technology, the popularity of the use of heating cables is growing.

Its main purpose is to prevent the freezing of individual areas by means of heat radiation.

There are three types on the market that differ in the principle of operation, structural elements and cost.

Types of heating cables

Resistive is a long heating system that cannot be shortened. Current conductors act as heating elements.

Zonal represents the parallel conductors through which the current is supplied. A high-resistance wire is wound between the veins, which is the heating element. Heating is carried out due to the zonal contacts of the wire and one of the conductive cores.

Self-regulating cable represents an "intelligent" design, consisting of two copper conductive cores and a heating matrix placed between them. The matrix is ​​a semiconductor, endowed with the ability to change properties at the slightest change in ambient temperature.

Resistive and zone cables have simpler devices. The low cost makes it possible to use them for domestic needs: underfloor heating systems, heating pipes with a diameter of no more than 40 mm, etc. The self-regulating type, although it is more expensive, pays off quickly due to its technical characteristics.

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The device and principle of operation of the heating cable

The cable consists of the following elements:

- outer protective shell;

- standard metal braiding;

- thermoplastic casing;

- copper conductors, twisted together;

- a conductive matrix that self-regulates the heating temperature.

The matrix is ​​made of a carbon-based polymer. It is a continuously heating element, but with the function of changing the temperature regime. The outer shell is seamless, which prevents moisture from entering the structure from mechanical stress.

With a decrease in air temperature, the matrix changes its properties due to an increase in the released thermal power. Copper conductors provide uninterrupted voltage along the entire length of the cable. The thermoplastic shell creates a barrier against external influences on the working elements. And the metal braid performs the function of grounding, shielding and rigid protection. The operating principle is based on the innovative PTC technology - Positive Temperature Coefficient.

Heating cable advantages

- the heating mode changes spontaneously depending on the air temperature;

- the limitation on the length of the used conductor is 150-200 m, which makes it possible to cover large areas;

- it is allowed to cut to the required length;

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- in case of voltage drops and overlaps, the cable does not burn out.

Before installing, you should familiarize yourself with the disadvantages to prevent unpleasant surprises:

- the service life is less than that of other types;

- increased starting load, exceeding 1.5 times the working indicator;

- with prolonged use, the power decreases;

- high price.

It should be noted that there are a large number of Chinese-made goods on the market. Only a specialist will be able to distinguish the analogue, therefore, you should contact the official representatives for the purchase.

Area of ​​application of the heating cable

The cable is used for heating:

Pipelines;

Roofing structures;

Open areas, greenhouses;

Drainage systems;

Driveways, etc.

Heating cable selection criteria

When buying a cable, consider the following factors:

- required power;

- the length of the heating section;

- coefficient of heat loss during installation on a pipeline;

- method of cable location;

- calculation of the increase in the required length to compensate for heat loss (within 30%).

The trade mark deserves special attention. In the fight against competitors, a conscientious manufacturer gives preference to the main "weapon" - the quality of its products.

Installation features

The installation of the cable can be carried out inside the pipe and outside.

Water has one interesting property - when it freezes, it does not contract, but, on the contrary, expands. Thanks to this, in winter, water pipes burst, and in the cellars, in the bitter frosts, jars of cucumbers explode.

Therefore, pipes running along the street or shallow underground are emptied for the winter so that they do not burst. To protect them, a variety of means are used, including a self-regulating heating cable for a water supply system.

In this review, we'll cover:

• How a self-regulating heating cable works;
• How to choose it;
• How to mount a self-regulating cable;
• How to choose its length.

After reviewing the material presented, you can protect your home water supply system from ruptures.

What is a self-regulating cable

Self-regulating cable is a unique invention, which is a flexible wire that heats up under the influence of electricity. At the same time, it has the ability to regulate its own power, focusing on the ambient temperature. That is, the colder the atmosphere, the hotter the self-regulating cable. He kind of adapts to the peculiarities of his environment, and not along the entire length.

The principle of operation of a self-regulating heating cable lies in its internal arrangement. Roughly speaking, it consists of three main parts:

Multi-layer construction provides unrivaled protection and shock resistance

• Metal conductors - provide power supply;
• "Smart" polymer matrix - it is she who adapts to changing conditions and generates heat;
• Insulation - a whole "sandwich" of several materials is used here.

The key link here is the polymer matrix. It is she who is responsible for self-regulatory properties. Moreover, literally every centimeter of it lives its own separate life.

That is, one segment may be colder, or vice versa, hotter than another. And all this without any electronics, without any sensors and everything else - just a polymer base made of "smart" material.

Self-regulating heating cable for plumbing has another interesting property - it is arbitrary length. We can take strong scissors, cut it and plug it back in - it will work as if nothing had happened. Literally every millimeter works here, so its length doesn't really matter. Unlike the New Year's garland, it will continue to work even if it is accidentally cut off.
However, the self-regulating heating cable has a sufficiently robust design to prevent accidental breaks.

Other properties of the self-regulating heating cable:

The "smart" polymer in the cable itself regulates the power consumption, which significantly saves electricity

• High mechanical strength - it runs on electricity, which means that it needs strong multi-layer insulation;
• Moisture resistance - it works quietly in the water column. The main thing is to insulate its end part with a special shrink film;
• Efficiency in electricity consumption - provided due to self-regulating properties (up to complete shutdown).

The strength of the self-regulating heating cable is ensured by its multilayer structure. The first two layers are copper conductors and smart polymer. Above them is an insulating layer of polyolefin or fluoropolymer.

The next layer plays the role of armor - copper braid is used here. Another layer of polyolefin insulation completes our sandwich. Thanks to this design, the self-regulating heating cable is very robust and durable.

Copper braid simultaneously works as a protection against electromagnetic radiation - it is weak, but still there.

How to choose the right self-regulating wire

We talked about how a self-regulating heating cable works. Let's move on to the next section - we will tell you how to choose a heating wire by power. For installation inside the pipe and outside, we will use low-temperature samples, which are heated to a maximum of +60 degrees. When calculating a heating cable, be guided by the following indicators:

It is the number of conductive paths in the cable that affects its maximum output power.

• Internal location when pipes pass underground - the optimal power is 5 W per linear meter;
• Exterior location when pipes pass underground - depending on the depth, you can use samples with a power of 10-15 W / m;
• Any location with outdoor pipes - choose a thin heating cable with a power of 20-30 watts.

The low-temperature, self-regulating, frost protection heating cable is thin and flexible so that it can be easily wrapped around water pipes.

Let's now see how long the self-regulating heating cable can be cut. We have already said that its length is an arbitrary indicator. But there are still some limitations. The maximum recommended length is 80-100 meters, the minimum is 20-30 cm... As for the bending radius, it is 6 diameters or more.

The cost of a self-regulating heating wire depends on its power, the range is quite large. For example, the price per meter of 30GSR2 heating cable with a power of 30 W / m is about 210-230 rubles. And the 16GSR2 modification with a power of 16 W will cost 180-190 rubles / m. You can buy it in plumbing and heating equipment stores in your city, including in construction hypermarkets.

When choosing a self-regulating heating cable, remember that there are two types:

The special double insulation allows the heating cables to be installed directly inside the pipes. However, this option requires more laborious work.

• Technical purpose - it is used to heat water pipes from the outside;
• Safely insulated - it can be laid inside the pipe as it uses safe fluorinated insulation.

When buying this or that sample, be sure to check with the seller for the possibility of using a heating cable inside the water supply pipe.

Also on sale are universal heating cables in silicone insulation, suitable for heating pipes and working as part of underfloor heating.

Gasket and connection

We have considered all the most important issues, from the principle of operation of a self-regulating heating cable, to the issues of its choice. It remains to find out how it is installed. First, let's discuss the most interesting way - inside the pipe.

Concealed laying inside the pipe

The most interesting task before us is to lay the self-regulating heating cable for the water supply inside the pipe. Being in a heated state, it will not allow the pipe to freeze and burst. Let's see how this is done. We need the following materials and tools:

Such a connection scheme requires much more effort, but gives a disproportionate increase in efficiency.

• Self-regulating heating cable of suitable length;
• Sharp knife for stripping insulation;
• Shrink film for conductor insulation;
• Rubber oil seal;
• Tee for installing a self-regulating cable inside the pipe;
• Hair dryer for shrinking the film;
• Electric wire with a plug.

To begin with, we determine the place of entry - it can be an internal or external section (everything is individual here, we look according to the situation).

The end section is located where the pipe goes into the ground or enters another building.

Remember that there should be no taps and valves along the entire length, as they can damage the self-regulating heating cable.

All work is carried out before the frost begins, at a positive temperature - do not wait until the first frosts appear. Do not forget to turn off the water in advance!

Special coupling used when connecting. You can buy at any plumbing store

If the water pipe rises from the floor and goes further horizontally, then this will facilitate the laying - we cut the pipe and install a tee in this place.

Next, we put a heat-shrinkable tube on the tip of the self-regulating heating cable and heat it with a construction hairdryer - this tip must be reliably sealed to avoid contact between water and live parts.
We put a self-regulating heating cable into it through the upper outlet, not forgetting to put an oil seal on it.

Next, we push the cable to the required length - it must be calculated in advance and with a small margin. At the other end, we need to mount a wire with a plug. Carefully remove the insulation and braid so that we can see two conductors - we solder the wire to them, not forgetting to put a connector made of heat-shrinkable material on it (after soldering, we put it on and blow it with hot air from a hair dryer).

After you have made all the electrical connections, you need to check the resistance with a multimeter - it should be several tens of ohms. If the multimeter shows a short circuit, remove the self-regulating cable and inspect it for damage. Pay particular attention to the farthest end.

Now we fix the oil seal, open the water supply, check the absence of leaks at the place of our work. If all is well, turn on the wire with the self-regulating heating cable connected to the network. Despite the fact that the water supply system is now protected from freezing, it is highly recommended to wrap the pipe with thermal insulation. Remember, good protection is multi-stage protection.

Open outdoor styling

If necessary, the self-regulating heating cable can be laid outside the water supply. It is used to wrap not only the pipes themselves, but also the flanges, couplings and valves installed on them. The easiest option is to run several self-regulating cables parallel to the pipe, securing them with aluminum tape. Laying in a spiral or double spiral is also possible, which only increases the heating efficiency.

Fastening the heating cable with such a connection is a sheer pleasure. The main thing is not to skimp on aluminum tape

You can also use a double method of laying - lay one heating cable in parallel, and the second one wind the pipe in a spiral. It is attached to the pipe using the same aluminum tape, rings every 20-30 cm... After the winding is complete, we apply adhesive tape to the cable along its entire length - this way we will achieve the maximum efficiency of the system.

Some experts advise increasing the efficiency of heat transfer by pre-wrapping the pipes with foil or the same tape.

After laying the self-regulating heating cable on the water pipe and making all the necessary electrical connections, wrap the resulting household with a layer of thermal insulation - this will prevent heat from escaping into the atmosphere. There are also recommendations for installing protective circuit breakers on the heating system of the water supply system - they will prevent the leakage of electricity when the insulation is depressurized.

Video

The heating cable, which is the main element of any cable heating system, is resistive and self-regulating... Resistive cables are cheaper and simpler, therefore they are more often used in domestic conditions, incl. they are great for organizing a home underfloor heating system and for heating pipes of small diameter(up to 40 mm).

At the same time, for heating pipes with a diameter of over 40 mm, tanks, heating roofs of roofs and gutters, street electrical panels, adjoining garage doors, etc. it is often better to use exactly self-regulating cable (samreg).
Self-regulating cable has the unique property of reacting to temperature changes and heating up when needed without the use of temperature sensors and electronic controllers. How is this unusual property provided?

The device and principle of operation of a self-regulating cable

The self-regulating cable is based on the so-called. self-regulating conductive matrix(item 1 in the figure) is a continuous heating element made of a carbon-based polymer, which changes its conducting properties depending on the temperature: with decreasing temperature in a specific area, the current flowing through the matrix also increases, which leads to an increase in the released thermal power.
When increasing, everything is exactly the opposite.

DC voltage along the entire length of the cable is provided by two parallel conductors from a large number of twisted copper conductors (pos. 2). The thermoplastic sheath (pos. 3) is designed for insulation, protection against moisture and abrasion, while the metal braid (pos. 4) provides shielding, grounding and additional protection of the matrix and conductors from mechanical influences.

Based on the above features of the device and the principle of operation, self-regulating cables have a number of advantages over resistive ones. Let's dwell on the main ones.

Economy and simplicity

When the external temperature drops, the self-regulating cable regulates its heat output by itself, which saves energy consumption and often completely abandons the use of thermostats and temperature sensors, connecting the cable directly to the electrical network.
Despite the fact that self-regulating cables are more expensive than resistive cables, the use of samregs is often economically justified. For example, if there is no ice and water in the gutter or gutter when using the cable as an anti-icing system, the power consumption is halved.

Reliability, versatility and ease of installation

For a conventional resistive cable, uniformity of the medium along its entire length is very important. When heating pipes, weirs, etc., it is impossible to ensure this factor, in view of, in particular, clogging, accumulation of debris, etc., which leads to local overheating of the resistive cable and may cause failure of the heating system. The self-regulating cable will itself reduce the temperature in the area where the heat dissipation is less, while keeping the temperature in other places unchanged. Self-regulating cables have a significantly higher resistance to voltage surges and, unlike resistive cables, do not burn out when it rises for a long time. Also, such cables have higher tensile strength characteristics.
The ability of the cable to self-regulate allows it to overlap - this is very important, for example, when heating pipe shut-off and control equipment.In contrast to resistive cables, the length of which is discrete and determined by a ruler (set) of fixed length cables that cannot be shortened, self-regulating cables can be cut in pieces of the required length. Note that the maximum cable length is limited - usually it is 100-150 m.

Choosing a self-regulating cable

The optimal choice, in our opinion, is the self-regulating cables of the American company NELSON-EASYHEAT, one of the companies of the international concern EMERSON. This company has been producing such cables for over 40 years and can guarantee their reliable, long-term and efficient operation, based on the experience of thousands of systems operating around the world. The wide range allows you to select the optimal cable for a variety of applications.

The areas of application of NELSON self-regulating cables are objects where it is necessary to maintain the temperature of liquids and gases in pipelines and tanks at low external temperatures. These include frost protection systems and temperature maintenance systems in objects such as pipelines, fire protection systems, water and technical fluid supply systems, and anti-icing systems.

The most demanded is self-regulating cable CLT which comes in two versions: CLT-JT and CLT-J.

Self-regulating cable CLT-JT intended for use in various conditions, incl. in high humidity conditions thanks to the polyolefin outer jacket.

CLT-J cable with fluoropolymer insulation, suitable for use in humid environments in contact with organic chemicals, solvents, etc., making it suitable for installation inside sewer pipes to prevent them from freezing.

NELSON cable is also widely used in gutter de-icing systems. LT-JT which differs from CLT in more durable insulation.

Freezing of the water supply system in winter is considered not a rare problem in private houses. The water in the pipes freezes for various reasons - improper installation of the water supply system, too low temperatures in winter, or simply the inability to lay the water supply system below the freezing level. To solve the problem, it is recommended to heat the water pipes with a cable, which even a novice electrician will be able to do. Next, we will tell you how to install a heating cable for a water supply system with your own hands, providing instructions, visual photos and video examples, as well as installation diagrams.

How does the heating system work?

To begin with, let's consider how pipes are heated with electricity. The heating principle is built similarly to the system - or it is laid in the right place, connected to the network, as a result of which the area is heated. There are two ways to mount the heating conductor for the water supply - fixing from the inside or from the outside. Each option has its own advantages and disadvantages, which we will discuss below.

As for the heating cable, the resistive cable is used more often, because costs an order of magnitude cheaper. An important nuance - a two-core conductor is used to heat the water pipes. This is due to the fact that a single-core one needs to be looped, and this is very problematic in the context of installing cable heating for a water supply system. An alternative option is to lay a self-regulating conductor, which heats pipes more economically and can work without a thermostat. The disadvantage of using a self-regulating model is considered to be a higher cost (approximately 2 times).

Conductor attachment methods

First, we will consider how to install a heating cable for a water supply system internally and externally, after which we will talk about the nuances of connection and additional thermal insulation of the system.

Down the pipe

At the stage of laying the water supply circuit, it is considered more preferable to mount the heating cable along the pipe. This can be done in two ways - along the pipeline or around. Consider the mounting instructions for each of the methods.

Along the pipeline

The easiest way is to install the heating cable in one line along the circuit. In this case, a prerequisite should be the fastening of the conductor under the pipe, which allows protecting the heating element from mechanical damage from above. In addition, the water begins to freeze from below, therefore, the lower location of the flexible heater will allow you to quickly eliminate the freezing of the water supply system.

If you decide to lay several cable lines along the pipe, you need to do this as shown in the diagrams below:

As for fixing the heating cable to the water pipes, it is best to use aluminum tape, which securely fixes the conductor and increases its heat transfer. Instead of scotch tape, you can also use adhesive tape for fastening, which is wrapped around the pipeline according to the following scheme:

Pay particular attention to the installation of the water heating cable through the corners. To keep the bend not too big, it is recommended to place the conductor along the outer radius of the pipe, as shown in the picture below:

Spiral

In areas with very low temperatures, it is recommended to completely wrap the heating element around the piping. In this case, the heating efficiency will be an order of magnitude higher, because the pitch of the turn is about 5 cm (you can increase it if you want). The length of the conductor when wound with a spiral should be approximately 1.7 times the length of the water pipe. Laying the cable in a spiral in hard-to-reach places can be done as follows:

In this case, the heating cable is first wrapped with an allowance, after which the loops are wrapped in the opposite direction. As a result of the actions, it turns out less than with step-by-step winding of a water supply system.

Individual nodes

More flexible heaters need to be attached to components such as metal supports, taps, valves and flanges, because there is a greater heat dissipation here. You can clearly see the installation diagrams below:

How to hold a flexible heater with your own hands

Special attention should be paid to the installation of the thermal sensor. In order for the heating of the water supply system to work properly and the cable does not overheat, it is recommended to place the sensor at the coldest point, as far as possible from the cable line. It is recommended to pre-glue the place of installation of the temperature sensor with a strip of aluminum tape. Examples of correct sensor placement are provided below:

From within

It is recommended to install the heating cable in the pipe if it is not possible to carry out heating from the outside. Most often, this method is chosen if the water supply system is already installed underground, in concrete structures and other inaccessible places. The disadvantage of internal installation of a flexible heater is as follows:

• The lumen of the pipe decreases (inner diameter for water supply).
• Over time, the conductor begins to grow bloom, resulting in blockages.
• A new point in the water supply is added - a tee, which reduces the reliability of the circuit.
• Installation of the heating cable is allowed only on straight and slightly curved sections of the water supply system. It is prohibited to run a flexible heater through tees and shut-off valves.

At the same time, low energy consumption of the heating system (direct contact of the heater with water), as well as less time-consuming repairs (it is enough just to pull the cable out of the tee, no need to break the ground, etc.) are considered positive aspects.

So, the installation of the conductor inside the pipe is carried out according to the following step-by-step instructions:

1. The first step is to put on the gland assembly on the cable to be placed in the pipe. This node looks as shown in the photo above.
2. In the right place of the water supply, a tee is mounted, through which a flexible electric heater will be introduced.
3. The cable is carefully laid to the problematic area, which will need to be heated.
4. The stuffing box is twisted, sealed and crimped.

As you can see, the internal installation of the heating cable into the water supply system is not difficult. Now let's talk about the final stages of installation: connecting to the network and thermal insulation of pipes.

Network connection

Since you are just studying how to make electric heating of water pipes, at the stage of fastening, we did not talk about one very important nuance, which we will dwell on now - the insulation of the end of the conductor. For this, a heat-shrinkable tube is used, which reliably protects the conductors from moisture ingress. Also, to connect a flexible heater, you need to connect the heating part with the so-called "cold" one. We recommend that you visually watch all the stages of connection on the video:

Mounting the handpiece and joining the two sections

How to properly cut a self-regulating conductor

For economical and safe operation of heating the water supply system, we also recommend connecting two devices: and a thermostat. The first device will protect the heating system from, and the second will allow you to regulate the heating temperature through a temperature sensor. An important nuance - when connecting the sensor to the thermostat, it must be borne in mind that most models work properly only if the length of the water supply does not exceed 50 meters (it is better to check this already in the store).

Thermal insulation

And the last thing to do is insulate the pipes for better heat retention. As a heater, you can use special cylinders cut from one side. They can be made of mineral wool, foamed polyurethane or even expanded polystyrene. Choose a suitable option for the price and wrap the pipes with it. In addition to saving heat, the thermal insulation layer additionally protects the conductor from mechanical damage (for outdoor installation). The thickness of the insulation must be at least 20 mm for half-inch pipes, 30 mm for inch pipes, 50 mm for two-inch pipes and 65 mm for other sizes.

That's all the instructions for installing and connecting heating water pipes. As you can see, the technology is quite laborious, however, it is quite possible to do the installation of a heating cable for a water supply system with your own hands. If you have any difficulties, ask questions in our