Wedge-shaped boards, nailed when sheathing a house horizontally and with an overlap, in North America is called a clapboard. This version of the exterior decoration of the house is very interesting - the walls of the building look both noble and modern. The same notorious "vinyl" often imitates just this kind of cladding. And the protection of the walls in this case is very reliable - there is practically no chance for water to get into the cavity of the wall. However, all this is possible under one important condition - if the work is done technically competently.

Recently, many people prefer polyvinyl chloride to wood. In North America, panels made of this plastic are almost three times cheaper than wooden boards, it is easier to work with "vinyl" and does not require much maintenance. However, customers, people of average income, still prefer natural wood to artificial material. We have been dealing with boards for many years and, believe me, we know a lot about this, at first glance, simple work. As in any business, we also have a whole arsenal of techniques, certain, allowing you to quickly and efficiently "dress" the house.

We start cladding after fixing the thermal insulation mats. First of all, we install the corner ones. For internal corners, we use bars with a section of 25x50 mm or 30x30 mm [Fig. 1) - with smaller cross-sections, it is difficult to achieve the desired sealing of the joints.

Outside corners, depending on the circumstances, we do it differently. The simplest way is to fill on the edges of the adjacent surfaces of the board with a section of 25x100 mm (Fig. 2a). In this case, we install the cladding end-to-end with the lateral edges of the corner elements, which allows us not to suffer with the joints of the clapboard boards "on the mustache".

If the customer wants the corners to look more solid, we do it a little differently (Fig. 26). First, we nail the slats with a section of 25x75 mm, and then, after the end of the sheathing, we close the joints with wide (25x150 mm) boards. In addition to external massiveness, such corners provide better waterproofing - Yes, and possible "bloopers" in the area of ​​joints will be closed. True, the latter method also has disadvantages - secluded places are formed in the corners, which various insects love to inhabit. But here, as they say, the customer is always right, and our task is to warn about possible consequences in time.

In order to minimize the possible warping of the boards, we carefully putty their ends in all cases, since it is the fibers that are the capillaries through which the wood absorbs moisture. By lenght corner boards we cut only after installing the drain aprons.

The roof over the side walls usually has an overhang (Fig. 3a). In this case, we nail the top sheathing board end-to-end with a soffit, and then additionally close the corner with a decorative strip.

End walls sometimes have to be handled differently (fig. 36). The pediment often has no overhang, so here we do about the same as in the case of "solid" corners. On the top of the end wall, we nail a rail with a section of 25x75 mm, the upper row of sheathing is installed end-to-end with it, and the seam is additionally closed with a wide (section 25x150 mm) board.

Most often we have to deal with wide (130 mm) boards (Fig. 4). When cladding, approximately 100 mm of the surface remains open, since the clapboard is installed with an overlap. Why approximately? Yes, because this type of cladding is just good because you can quite flexibly vary the amount of overlap.

For example, we always try to calculate the rows so that the lower edge of the row of skins located above the window is at the level of the upper cut of the opening. Likewise, under the window, the board should pass continuously and without any cutouts. Note that wall cladding is much easier and looks better if all windows are at the same height.

When cladding walls with a clapboard - a homemade template. It can be made from a sufficiently long strip with a section of 25x75 mm. Having installed the workpiece on the drain apron, we mark the upper and lower sections of windows and doors on it, and then, having calculated the number of rows, we transfer the markings from the template to the wall (Fig. 5). In this case, you need to mark the upper edges of the clapboard, since the lower ones will be covered with the already nailed boards of the lower row.

The calculation of the rows consists in dividing the distance between the extreme (upper and lower) points of the sheathed surface into equal intervals (from 100 to 115 mm). In some cases, when the pitch of the boards cannot be adjusted to the marks of the windows and doors, we act according to the circumstances, for example, make appropriate cutouts in the cladding boards.

There are usually three of us working: one is sawing, two are nailing the trim. First, we mount the casting board and close it with an aluminum apron, which we attach to the wall with an overlap of about 4 ... 5 cm. Then we cut the blanks for covering the inter-window gaps.

On top of the apron, we nail a block with a section of 30x30 mm in order to set a single slope for all the boards. This, of course, is for boards with a width of 130 mm. For narrower clapboards, the thickness of the lining may be different. If a row of cladding needs to be made up of some blanks, we put pieces of roofing tar paper or roofing material under each joint in order to exclude moisture penetration through the seam into the groan cavity. We seal the windows around the perimeter with silicone sealant, and outside, around the openings, we make improvised roofing frames.

And a few more tips for those who decided to sheathe the house with wedge-shaped boards.

1 If one side is shaved and the other is not, it is advisable to install the clapboard with the rough side out. In this case, both the primer and the paint adhere to the surface better.
2 Do not nail the sheathing boards only at the top or bottom. In the first case, the board can split (be), and in the second, the clapboard will expand uncontrollably when absorbing moisture. The optimal option is to mount at random with a step of 30 ... 45 cm.
3. We tried different types of wood: cedar, mahogany (mahogany), pine and spruce. The best, of course, is the cedar. It is difficult to drive a nail into mahogany without splitting the board, although in all other respects mahogany is great - it does not warp, does not shrink and holds the finishing coating perfectly. We prefer not to work with pine, since this wood is prone to splitting, warping, and shrinkage. We rarely use spruce, but in general it is quite suitable for external cladding.
4. It is better not to save on nails. Even galvanized nails are not very good for cladding in our opinion. When hammered from the surface of the cap, a fragile coating is peeled off and the nail begins to rust, like ordinary black. The most reliable nails are stainless steel. They are, of course, much more expensive than galvanized ones, but they are worth it.

Wood is often used to decorate the facades of private houses. The decorative facade board is in no way inferior to the covering made of timber, but, at the same time, it is lighter and more affordable. It is made from various species and is known for its strength and durability qualities.

Types and description

Facade wooden board (planken or keruing) is a type of facing material that is made from natural wood by cutting and processing it. It is classified according to the species from which it is produced.

There are such types:

The production of natural wood panels is almost identical. The tree trunk is cleaned of bark and twigs, after which it is cut with a special saw into certain segments. These planks undergo several treatments that reduce the spacing between the fibers, thereby increasing the density of the wood. After that, to give the material a certain color or structure, it is covered with paint, varnishes, tinted (to obtain a tinted panel).

In addition to natural rocks, artificial materials are also used. As examples, we propose to consider facade boards made of wood-polymer composite (WPC), PVC (lining) and fiber cement. In both cases, the sawdust is mixed with certain additives. In WPC, these are polymers that resist the spread of decay processes and increase the strength of the material. In the second, it is a simple glue that provides a flat, smooth surface, low weight and resistance to moisture. It should be noted that PVC is more fragile than WPC, so it is mainly used for interior work.

The ventilated fiber cement board (Cedral and Deckenink Twinson) outwardly completely repeats the surface of natural cedar, but is made from special siding. It features internal ventilation grooves and hidden fittings. This synthetic resin panel is very lightweight, yet highly flexible and durable.

Separately, it is necessary to highlight panels made of thermal wood. Thermal book, thermal oak, and other similar coatings do not change their size under the influence of temperature. This is very important if there are no plans to change the facade in the next 10 years. Due to the fact that during the manufacture of a thermal tree undergoes a number of additional treatments at high-temperature conditions, its fibers are compressed. Facing thermoboard for walls is not supplemented with any artificial additives, therefore it is completely natural.

In addition to the material from which the panel is made, it is also classified according to its sectional shape.

There are such options:

If you classify coatings by the degree of processing, then there is a front primed board, clean (wet), painted. The primer increases the stability of the wood. Specialists also use mixtures that prevent wood from igniting or the spread of fire. A raw board does not have such properties, but it costs an order of magnitude less.

Installation

Installation can be carried out both on the frame and on the wall of the building. The latter option is most preferable for timber buildings, if you want to strengthen its walls or basement. Consider how a radial heat-treated facade board is installed on a house:

Video: Installation of a facade board on planfix fasteners

Every 5 years, the facade needs to be re-treated with antibacterial and other protective compounds.

Price overview

You can buy a facade board at the manufacturer's warehouse, as well as in branded dealer stores, its price depends on the material and size. The sale is carried out in all cities of the Russian Federation and the CIS countries.

Consider how much a Finnish UTV facade board costs:

This panel is supplied without additional sanding, therefore, a distinctive feature of this company is the rough surface of the wood. The main advantage of the coating is its high resistance to open fire and temperature changes.

Unedged board finishing is the most common and simple technology, which, with a correct and competent approach, is capable of decorating the facade of a residential building.

It is a simple and inexpensive building material, characterized by non-sawn edges, which give the design originality and aesthetics to the structure.

Often, when equipping and decorating your home, preference is given to environmentally friendly building materials.

Therefore, cladding with a board or similar materials based on natural wood has gained popularity.

Among the positive physical properties of wood, it should be noted:

• Beautiful view;
• Resistance to mechanical stress;
• High thermal insulation;
• Partial replacement of damaged strips;
• High strength;
• Noise isolation;
• Ease of installation and operation;
• Compatibility with other finishing building materials.

The cost of a natural product is higher than imitating analogs, but it is quite justified.

The modern construction market offers a wide range of wooden products, but the most popular are:

• Lining;
• Timber imitation;
• Siding panels;
• Unedged board.

Thanks to the raw edges, an amazing style of facade decoration is created with competent cleaning and processing of the material.

Careful adjustment of the planks gives the impression of a completely wooden structure. It is possible to leave the edges of the planks with bark elements, which gives a stylish finish.

It is only important not to forget about the use of protective impregnating compounds and antiseptics. Possible impregnation with stain and subsequent varnish application.

Previously, such material was spent on non-residential buildings and for the lathing of the roof structure due to the lack of demand for aesthetics of appearance.

But in recent years, unedged board has been going on for. However, you will first need its competent processing and aesthetic location.

Among its positive characteristics are high strength and high resistance to mechanical damage, good resistance to changes in humidity and temperature extremes.

And the low density of wood makes it possible for its easy processing, which reduces the time spent on finishing work.

A beam is used, nailed in 1.5 m increments to the top of the unedged board and at the corners of the structure.

The fit of the unedged material may not be ideal, the resulting cracks are covered with mastic or a hermetic compound.

Advantages and disadvantages of wood:

Pros: independence from climatic zones, designs of any complexity, environmental friendliness and naturalness, simple installation that does not require special skills.

As well as the duration of operation and maintainability, installation of additional insulation, reconstruction of the facade without harming the fundamental foundation, affordable price and a variety of colors and textures.

Watch a video on the topic:

Cons: flammability without special treatment, natural constituents in the form of knots, resins and cracks, the frequency of renewal of the protective paint, fungal manifestations without antiseptic treatment.

Material dimensions

It is finished with an unedged board at 16, 19, 22 and 25 mm in thickness, there are also thicker ones - 32-75 mm.

Specialized stores are full of a variety of choices of this material, which is explained by the frequent finishing work with its use.

The creation and uniqueness of the play of light and shade - the effect obtained thanks to the horizontal siding. For facades, it is recommended to purchase an unedged board 30 cm wide.

Preference is given to high-density northern woods, which are characterized by a beautiful texture. Especially, I would like to note the perfect butt forest and Siberian larch, which go without defects.

Mounting method

The planks are fastened in 2 ways: "overlap" or close to each other. The 2nd method is as difficult as it is beautiful.

Regardless of the aesthetic appearance, first of all, the practicality of the finishing method is taken into account.

From the point of view of practicality, "overlap" is the most suitable way of cladding facades, as it is more moisture resistant due to the installation of an unedged board over the waterproofing layer.

And the ends of the strips are joined with undercutting "under the mustache", followed by processing the joints with a hermetic compound.

If necessary, the material is primed and fixed over the waterproofing. Fastening is done with the front side with 1 nail at the bottom, but above the previous bar.

This will preserve the integrity of the entire structure during any fluctuations in humidity.

Step-by-step overlap sheathing technology

Boards are primed or covered with a protective layer with deep penetration compounds.

Primer is a connecting link with adhesive and paint compounds, which helps to increase the wear resistance of the coating, and to reduce the aggressive effect of the environment. The walls are also primed.

Installation of a coating-type waterproofing layer. The walls and blind areas of the building are waterproofed three times to protect against moisture penetration and the formation of microorganisms.

The mastic is applied with a brush. If there are cracks, they are poured with the composition, and the excess is removed with a spatula.

Drying of the waterproofing is important to avoid surface stickiness.

Installation of an insulating layer in the form of mineral wool, characterized by its non-combustibility, moisture resistance, cold resistance.

Fastening the planks vertically over the waterproofing layer with nails. Vertical unedged boards are stuffed to the wall surface, then horizontal boards are attached from bottom to top.

The imposition of each subsequent plank on the previous one is overlapped by 20 mm.

Sealing joints with polyurethane sealants with high elasticity and not susceptible to stretching and deformation.

Facade decoration is carried out with various materials. At the same time, the correct use of even boards with raw edges can turn out to be an external decoration of any home. Wood cladding is an environmentally friendly way to protect you from sun, wind, rain and frost.

Preliminary and final processing of materials is of no small importance in ensuring the service life of the external decorative coating. Thanks to her, the cladding of the house with a board will preserve the beautiful appearance of the building for many years.

Some features

In order to cover your house with an overlap board, you need to solve several problems in advance:

• decide on the type of wood;
• select materials for preliminary and finishing processing;
• assess the need for additional insulation;
• choose fastening materials.

Planking a building is not cheap. However, its huge plus is in the naturalness and natural beauty of such a material.

Choice of wood

The following types of wood can be used for the exterior cladding of a house with an overlap board:

1. Larch... This is the leader of this list in terms of basic characteristics. The wood is moisture resistant. The degree of its warpage is significantly lower than that of other conifers. According to the Brinell scale, its hardness is 109 units, which practically corresponds to this parameter of oak. Easy to process, nails hold well in such a fairly dense rock. The service life is at least 100 years. Such wood is hardly susceptible to insect attack. The only disadvantage is the high price.
2. Spruce... This type of tree is quite well impregnated with resin. The presence of numerous knots is a big plus for decorative design. However, the wood is soft. Therefore, after a few years, cracks form around the knots. Due to these characteristics, spruce board finishing is a rare occurrence.
3. Pine... The hardness of this rock is only 1.6 units. A board made of this type is very warped. Service life no more than 12 years. In this regard, pine is used less frequently for external cladding than larch.
4. Cedar... The material is resistant to decay, but it is susceptible to insect attack, therefore additional processing is required. The material is soft, but the service life is about 20 years.
5. Oak... This material looks very nice, the hardness is 110 units, the service life is at least 100 years. Oak is resistant to moisture and decay, as well as insect attack. The disadvantages include high cost. Driving nails without first drilling the hole will often split the material.

Hardwoods are also very popular. However, the cheapest species are pine and spruce. But when using them, high-quality treatment with antiseptics and fire retardants is required, at the final stage - with varnishes.

After choosing the type of wood, it is necessary to determine the degree of material processing:

1. Obapol slab or just a slab when facing a house has rarely been used lately. Such a board is the edge of a log with an oval surface. The disadvantage is the different width.
2. Unedged board. From lumber it is in the greatest demand. On the board, one or both ends are not processed along the length.
3. A clear-edged board is processed along its entire length, the width is the same along it.
4. Grooved board. From the ends along the length it has grooves of various shapes.

Now planken is gaining wide popularity as a facing material. Such non-grooved board is in demand, it is made from both larch and pine with beveled edges. Produced with a thickness of no more than 20 mm.

You should pay attention to the board - imitation of a bar. Its thickness is 16–45 mm.

The most convenient width of any board used is 300 mm. At the same time, the thickness of the finishing material can vary from 20 to 30 mm.

It must be remembered that the material for work must be dry. Therefore, in the summer, it is recommended to keep it outdoors for up to two weeks, sheltering it from moisture. At the same time, the shrinkage of the material after the work is completed will significantly decrease.

Selection of auxiliary materials for pre-treatment and sealing of joints

Exterior finishing of the house implies preliminary preparation. The walls must be protected from dampness and fungus. For this, premium wood pre-impregnation products turn out to be excellent helpers. These are Biofa primers or Woodlife antiseptics. They make walls resistant not only from moisture and fungus, but also from fire.

It is imperative to make sure that the basement is waterproofed correctly. On a stone or concrete foundation, moisture gradually rises to the walls. It should also be taken into account that the board should never come into contact with the ground.

There must be a blind area around the house. It can be done after finishing the finishing work. Do not forget about the presence of a waterproofing layer from the wall of the building.

To seal the joints between the boards along the length, a variety of mastics and other means are used, for example, Perma-Chink acrylic sealant or Energy Seal. They have good adhesion and elasticity, the ability to both compress and stretch. Cracks between the seams are not formed during their application.

Before starting work, you need to decide on the need to insulate the house. If the building is made of gas blocks, then it is advisable to perform this event. If mats are used as insulation, then suspensions, used, for example, for drywall, must be provided for fixing the guide bar.

After all such "little things" are provided, finishing work can be started.

Unedged boarding technology

After processing the board with a protective coating and waterproofing the walls, and, if necessary, installing a heater, the cladding material is attached over the insulation to the vertical bars. The house is sheathed from bottom to top with nails.

In the lower part of the vertical bars, it is necessary to nail a horizontally thin strip that sets the angle of inclination (relative to the vertical) of each subsequent board. The next layer is superimposed on the previous one. This "overlap" is 15 to 20 mm. It is necessary to maintain the same inclination of the board relative to the vertical.

When applying each next row, one should not forget about observing the horizontal arrangement of the finishing material. Fastening the board with nails is carried out at the bottom of it.

Upholstery of the house with an unedged board ends with a topcoat. Varnish is often used for this. This coating is produced on a different basis. Borma acrylic varnish or Varathane polyurethane varnish have proven themselves well. They protect wood from moisture, sunlight, temperature changes. At the same time, the natural appearance of the fibers is well preserved.

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Finishing board as an original decoration for your home

In the history of our country, finishing boards for walls, both external and internal, have been used for a very long time. In this review, we will talk about what kind of decorative board for wall decoration is, and in what design directions it is in demand today.

Wooden board for decoration - what it is

The true motto of the modern world can be called the slogan - "Let's go back to the wild, but don't forget to take with us all the benefits and conveniences of civilization."... And although in its pure form this task is practically impossible, in design, wall decoration with a board has become one of the symbols of naturalness in the interior. Of course, there are both pluses and minuses here.

Advantages and disadvantages of wood trim

• Naturally, the first thing advertising “trumpets” and absolutely all designers say is the ecological purity and naturalness of wood. Polished furniture and wood-based cladding boards are good things. But you must admit that trimming with an unedged board in its appearance is much closer to the wild;
• The wood, of course, is not stone or concrete, but all the same, such a cladding is quite durable. Plus the board is elastic, and where the stone breaks, and the plaster cracks, there will be nothing with the board;

• A house decorated with wood is not only beautiful and prestigious, but also warm. By itself, such a cladding has a rather low level of thermal conductivity;
• Facade board for exterior decoration of the house, being a porous and elastic material, has always been considered an excellent sound insulator;
• Wood finishes have a fairly wide range of colors. Now you can choose your own type of wood for any design, even the notorious one does not shy away from plank inclusions. And thanks to modern impregnations and stains, the facade and interior cladding can be decorated to your liking;

• A beautiful, natural look and the torment of creativity at the birth of a new design are certainly interesting things. But there is one more important point, any home craftsman can mount such a cladding with his own hands.

You can take our word for it, instructions for mounting a board on a wall are mastered within half an hour. There are 3 types of board fastening: end-to-end, overlap and thorn-groove system. And all these types are extremely easy to learn.

Like any finishing material, a wooden board is not without its drawbacks. Although here a lot depends on how you look at these disadvantages:

• Many critics "nod" at the high cost of such a finish. Of course, if you decorate a house or a summer cottage from the inside, for example, with an oak parquet board, then the price will be exorbitant;

From my own experience, I can say that finishing a bath with an unedged board made of such species as pine and linden is quite affordable for a common man in the street, even taking into account the cost of protective impregnations.

• The tree burns well and you can't get away from this. Nowadays, many fire retardants (fireproofing impregnations) are produced, but, firstly, it is chemistry, and secondly, fire retardants only reduce the flammability of the material;
• And one more negative point, in which I fully support the critics, is the need for periodic prevention. Especially when it comes to finishing with an unedged board outside and cladding with wood in wet rooms. In this case the protective coating on wood will need to be renewed every few years.

Let's understand the terminology

It is customary to call a board a wooden product in which the width of the plank is 2 or more times its thickness. If the bar does not meet this requirement, then it is already a bar or a bar (a bar has a side size in cross-section up to 100 mm, and a bar - 100 or more millimeters).

• Edged board is the most common building material. In this case, the product is processed from all four sides. Moreover, the processing should be carried out precisely by a technical method, sawing, planing or grinding;

• Unedged board is technically processed only on two wide sides. Simply put, a "wild" log is taken and unfolded on a sawmill in one plane. As a result, the edges of such planks remain untreated, often even with bark;

• The so-called wane or slab are log cuts along the edges. In fact, in such strips, only one plane is even, they are not processed on the reverse side. Such wood has always been considered a waste of woodworking, it could only be used in inconspicuous places, for example, for arranging a roofing pie;

Modern designers have found another use for this material and create original panels from the slab.

• There are also such specific terms as frontal, terrace and ship board. But they no longer come from the type of processing, but rather from the purpose:

1. So the place for the frontal board was always considered the zone of transition from the walls of the house to the roof, in some cases this was the name of the material used for the manufacture of carved platbands and pediments;

1. A ship board is a fairly thick, well-cut plank, originally intended for finishing the outer sides and decks of ships. Luxurious appearance, beautiful texture and the highest quality of surface treatment made this expensive material one of the most popular not only in construction, but also in design;

1. A decking board is, in principle, the same as a ship board, as the name implies, it was intended for paving floors on open terraces. Although not so expensive wood is already used here. Therefore, decorating the balcony with a terrace board or reveting the facade with it will cost less than a ship board.

Types of finishing boards

Now let's move on to the most popular types of material. And if we take it in percentage terms, then, of course, the lining can be considered the queen here. These planks got their name at the beginning of the twentieth century, when they were lined with railway cars from the inside.

A distinctive feature of this popular material is the tongue-and-groove connection. In the overwhelming majority of cases, such cladding is mounted on a frame made of wooden blocks.

There are many varieties of lining, although imitation and block house are deservedly considered the most common. With the imitation of a bar, everything is clear, but under the outlandish name of a block house there are slats that copy the appearance of a rounded log.

Nowadays, many are trying to carve out a block house as a separate niche. I was specifically interested in this issue and I can assure you that a block house is one of the types of lining.

The planks can have different sizes and are intended for outdoor or indoor decoration, but all attempts to separate a block house into an independent type of decoration are just a marketing ploy.

Exactly the same as the "euro lining". It differs from the usual one only in strictly fixed dimensions. And also the obligatory presence of compensating cuts on the back side.

Modern parquet boards are also joined according to the tenon-groove principle, but here you get a perfectly even and durable coating. Previously, this material was made from solid, well-dried and impregnated with protective compounds.

Nowadays, a parquet board is often glued from several planks. And some careless manufacturers generally make it out of thick plywood.

The so-called planken or planking board is an exclusively decorative, finishing material. If you understand the history of origin, then planken can be safely called the grandfather of modern lining.

The fact is that initially the carriages were faced with even planks, and only a little later, a tenon-groove connection appeared on these planks. But the planks, out of habit, continued to be called clapboard.

The term planking board was again coined by good marketers. After all, it was necessary to somehow call even planed planks without thorns and grooves, but with a chamfer on the front side.

Interior wall decoration with planking boards can be performed both end-to-end and overlapping. But on the facade, most often the plank is mounted only with an overlap. Moreover, the planks are packed horizontally so that the rain can calmly flow down them. Such a kind of wooden tiles.

The chamfer on the front side of the planking board can be either rounded or have even corners. But remember, if you decide to mount the plank end-to-end anywhere, leave a gap of a couple of millimeters between the planks (for the thickness of the match). It is necessary to compensate for the expansion of wood with fluctuations in temperature and humidity.

Species of wood from which the finishing board is made

It is no secret that in addition to beauty, natural wood also has a beneficial effect on human health. Personally, I have never heard that anyone was allergic to this or that wood species. In the table below, I have outlined the main characteristics of the most popular breeds on the domestic market.

The subtleties of the design of wooden walls

If we are already talking about the design as such, then you must agree that the lining is not suitable for the role of the original finish. This material is firmly entrenched in the association with balconies, garages and baths.

I mean something exclusive, something that others do not have and preferably at a reasonable price. And here it is better for us to work with edged board, unedged board and slab. As a last resort, you can use old boards and parquet boards.

But with old boards you need to be very careful, otherwise, instead of originality, you can get clutter.

Where is it better to put accents

Decorating the walls with a board will only look if it is dosed. In other words, you should not sew up the whole house with the same material, as you will definitely not achieve exclusiveness.

A wooden panel should be striking right after entering, which means that it should be connected with other interior details. There are 4 suitable places for interior decoration with wood in the house:

1. In the bedroom, natural wall decoration will be appropriate at the head of a wide bed. It can be only a fragment covering the head of the bed and side tables, or the entire wall;

1. The wooden backdrop will contrast perfectly with the wide plasma TV. So you can organically combine the naturalness of wild nature with the technocratic benefits of civilization;

1. Your favorite sofa, in front of which you watch TV with the whole family in the living room, will also be in perfect harmony with natural wood. Especially if this sofa is sheathed with natural leather. But keep in mind, here you need to choose one thing. Either decorate the wall behind the TV, or behind the sofa, otherwise the zest will be lost;

1. In the kitchen, even if it is of solid dimensions, there are also only 2 walls on which wood trim will look good. This is the work area, that is, the kitchen apron and everything around it. And the dining table only if this table is adjacent to the wall.

Although these are all classic options. Nobody bothers you to create. For example, in my house, an unedged board is sheathed with a corner in which there is an aquarium and a cage with birds. Add a few more live indoor vines and you get a corner of wildlife in your own home.

Styles with which the tree is in harmony

In general, in design, it is believed that a tree can be entered into absolutely any style. Even hi-tech, with its black and white paints, strict forms and shine of nickel-plated parts, is quite loyal to natural wood. True, it is better to use glossy and laminated surfaces in it, the unedged board will be alien here.

Eco-directions, in addition to the already traditional trend in the spirit of "back to the roots", includes the Asian, in particular the Japanese style. Although rough shapes are discouraged in Asia, all parts need to be finished well.

The so-called country style includes a lot of different branches. These are American, English, Scandinavian styles, rustic and, in fact, all ethnic trends. This is where you can arbitrarily compose a rough-cut board.

French Provence and the Mediterranean stand separately. They are welcome to design with whitewashed curved boards. In addition, glossy blotches will be appropriate in the Italian theme, but without fanaticism.

If you want to decorate the interior in a retro style, you do not have to sew up everything with aged or old boards. A brushed tree with a highlighted texture and light cracks certainly does not hurt, but I repeat again, you should not get carried away.

• The board can be fixed to the lathing or glued to the wall. There are enough glues now, but "Liquid nails" are usually used. If you decide to glue the material, then the wall will have to be perfectly aligned;

• Monochromatic cladding, even from elite wood species, is no longer surprising to anyone. Do not be afraid to experiment with different colors, or better with different types of wood, this will add extra volume to your wall;
• The layout of vertical, horizontal and diagonal planks looks great. Even a classic parquet herringbone can be inserted in fragments;

• Golden oak can be diluted with a pink board of Karelian birch or rich burgundy blotches of cherry;
• My advice to you is to use synthetic varnishes and paints as little as possible for interior decoration, and it is better to give them up altogether. The wood will look good and will not fade for a long time if it is coated with linseed oil once a year. To preserve the aroma of, for example, natural needles for a long time, you need to insist these needles in linseed oil for 2 weeks;

• So that your design masterpiece does not fall out of the general ensemble, it is desirable that in some other interior details the leading color of the wall is repeated;
• If the wall is plain with a polished or laminated finish, you can revive it with the help of accessories, decorative shelves with figurines, light bulbs, pictures, and more;
• Decorating the walls with a board in the nursery is a separate topic. Firstly, I do not recommend that you put the planks on glue, no matter how high-quality it is, your child can pick out these planks. Secondly, something durable and smooth, for example, a parquet board, will be appropriate for the nursery. It is better not to use an unedged board or slab here, the child may get hurt or drive a splinter.

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