Types of laying solid boards on the floor. Correct laying of solid boards
Installation of a massive board is quite specific and time consuming, so even if you are a “jack of all trades”, it would be more correct to entrust this work to experienced specialists. Nevertheless, it is useful to know the basic nuances of installation: this will allow you to control the quality of work and will save you from possible problems with the floor in the future, because most of the defects in the flooring arise precisely due to improper installation.
A solid board is laid only with the help of a rigid attachment to the base with self-tapping screws and glue. This is a reliable and time-tested method that allows you to obtain a stable "monolithic" floor and then repeatedly carry out repair grinding (one of the advantages of a solid board). However, a rigid attachment makes increased demands on the base and the quality of the installation. And preparation for the installation of a solid board begins long before its purchase.
Room preparation
Installation of flooring is one of the final stages of repair. The less work remains to be done after laying the floor, the less chance of accidentally damaging it. All wet work in the room must be completed at least two months before the start of installation. The relative humidity in the room should be in the range from 40% to 60%, and the temperature - from +18 to +24 degrees Celsius. A solid board is susceptible to environmental parameters, therefore it is necessary to strictly maintain them within the specified limits.
Preparation of the base
Arrangement of the subfloor is a responsible and scrupulous process, and all subsequent operation of a massive board depends on its quality. Many problems with a wooden floor (for example, floorboards creak) arise precisely from a poorly executed base.
The concrete subfloor must be dry, level, firm and clean (no dust). The moisture content of the concrete screed should be within 2-3%. Already at 3-4% humidity it is necessary to use a primer under the glue. Permissible curvature of the base: no more than 2 mm per 2 m2 of area. Curvature is checked with a two-meter rule or spirit level ("level"). Any drops of more than 2 mm must be corrected.
There are different ways of laying solid boards (for example, on logs - a method popular in the days of block parquet), but for the Russian climate Amber Wood recommends installation on plywood sheets. Plywood with a thickness of at least 12 mm is laid on the prepared concrete base. Plywood is sawn into small sheets (no more than 0.5 mx 0.5 m in size), on which glue is applied, after which they are attached with dowel nails to the concrete base. Technological gaps of 3-5 mm must be left between the sheets.
After two days, the plywood is sanded, during which the differences between the sheets are also eliminated (the curvature requirements are the same as for concrete). After sanding, it is advisable to prime the plywood to remove fine dust.
The presence of any type of heating in the base is unacceptable: "warm floor" will lead to rapid deterioration of the massive board.
Moisture control
A floor made of natural wood places high demands on humidity not only during operation, but also during installation.
The moisture content of the concrete screed is checked with a special device - moisture meter for concrete, and the relative humidity in the room is hygrometer... There are advanced moisture meters that can also measure the humidity of the environment. But the moisture meter for wood is not suitable for measuring the moisture content of concrete, even if you set the maximum material density in the settings. A high-quality moisture meter is an expensive device, but it is a must for specialists involved in laying parquet products. If the installers did not measure humidity before starting work, then this is a serious "bell" that casts doubt on their qualifications. As for the hygrometer, it is a fairly simple household appliance that is useful to purchase for home use. It will allow you to constantly monitor the relative humidity of the air in the room, which is important for the health and durability of a wooden floor. There are beautiful wall hygrometers on sale that will perfectly fit into any interior.
Preparing a solid board
The purchased solid board (delivered in packs packed in polyethylene) must be allowed to soak for a week in the room where the installation will be carried out, so that the wood "gets used" to the conditions of temperature and humidity. At the same time, it is important to resist the desire to immediately open and inspect the brought boards: it is better to unpack the packs immediately before laying. Then it will be possible to carry out troubleshooting. Never stack boards that are defective or damaged during transportation: they can be replaced or returned, but only before installation.
Mounting
Usually, a massive board is laid along the incident light (perpendicular to the window), so the floor looks the most harmonious. However, if the base is made of wood flooring, then the floor must be laid across the base boards. It is also possible "designer" laying at an angle of 45o, but it entails an overconsumption of material and a very large number of undercuts.
The solid board is fixed to the plywood base by continuous gluing on two-component glue, which is applied with a special notched trowel.
Additionally, the board is fixed using parquet screws, which are screwed into the base of the ridge at an angle of 45 ° in increments of 20-30 cm (their caps will hide the boards of the next row). You cannot fix a solid board only with glue, self-tapping screws are necessary in any case!
The installation of the first row of boards is carried out with a groove to the wall, and fastening with self-tapping screws - through the front surface (so that when installing the baseboards, the caps are hidden). When laying, adjacent boards are tightly joined in the transverse and longitudinal directions, if necessary, they are knocked out with a rubber hammer and pulled together with wedges.
During the installation process, you will probably have to bend around various obstacles: for example, heating pipes. In this case, using a jigsaw with a fine file, the sections necessary for bending are cut out in the board, taking into account the compensation gap.
Compensation gap
Due to seasonal fluctuations in temperature and humidity, the wooden floor expands and contracts, therefore it is necessary to leave a technological gap (compensation gap) of at least 10 mm between the wall and the adjacent massive board. In the process of laying, the gaps are fixed with wedges, and at the end of the work they are hidden by skirting boards.
The expansion gap is necessary not only in the vicinity of the walls, but also next to any other static structures, against which the floor covering can abut during expansion. These are door frames, heating pipes, ventilation ducts, poles and columns, as well as furniture with rigid fastening to the floor (wardrobes, safes, etc.).
Break-up
Breakaway, i.e. displacement of the joint between the boards relative to the adjacent row is a necessary technique both from an aesthetic point of view, and from a technological one. The same principle can be observed, for example, in brickwork. For a reliable connection, it is recommended to maintain a gap of at least 40 cm.
For convenience, a shift of 1/2 or 1/3 of the length of the board is usually used. For example, laying the first row and all subsequent odd rows begins with a whole board, and the second and all subsequent even ones - with a half or third sawn. Thanks to this, the floor pattern will be neat and symmetrical, and the connection will be strong.
But sometimes you want to deliberately move away from symmetry, especially when laying country-type parquet with a pronounced wood pattern and intricate texture. In this case, a geometrically verified symmetrical runaway may look boring and inappropriate. For a variegated floor, you can use a run without repetitions, when the joints of the boards in different rows are not on the same line. The main thing is to withstand an offset of at least 40 cm relative to the previous row.
Laying the last row and finishing work
Before laying the last row, you need to measure the distance remaining to the wall: most likely, it will differ in different places due to the curvature of the walls. Therefore, each board of a row must be cut longitudinally to the required width at the place of its installation (not forgetting about the compensation gap). The last row leaves very little room for work. It is convenient to use a special mounting foot for laying boards near the wall.
The last row of a massive board, like the first, is fastened with self-tapping screws through the front surface. After the installation is completed, it is necessary to hide the expansion gaps and caps of the screws with a plinth or fillet of a suitable width.
Usually solid board is supplied with a decorative and protective coating already applied at the factory. However, if it has yet to be applied, then this can be done no earlier than 2-3 days after the end of the installation: first, the boards must lie down, and the glue must completely gain hardness.
Compliance with the laying technology is the key to a long and reliable operation of the floor covering. A responsible approach to the installation of solid boards in the future will allow you to fully enjoy the benefits of a natural wooden floor and not have any problems with it.
The content of the article:
Laying a solid board is the final stage in the installation of a wooden floor structure. Forming a topcoat, this material is ideal for most rooms. The ecological cleanliness of the board is due to the lack of adhesive joints, since piece products are made from solid wood. Its design, created by nature itself, lends a delightful appearance to the flooring. Wood decor is excellent at keeping warm, it is durable, durable and can be easily renewed. You will learn how to lay a solid board on a stone or wooden base from this article.
Features of the choice of solid floorboards
The choice of boards for flooring must be approached with the utmost responsibility, because the appearance and durability of the future cladding depend on its quality. Modern solid board has grooved joints and is made from dozens of wood species, including exotic ones in our understanding of the word. Depending on the financial capabilities, the purpose of the room and the requirements for the future floor, you can choose on this basis almost any wooden flooring.
The most common and budget option is solid pine wood. Products made from cedar and larch are also quite popular, but they are more expensive. Ash and oak floor coverings are exceptionally durable, but their price is much higher.
Aspen and alder floors have a healing effect, but the strength of their wood limits the use of the material in rooms with intensive traffic. If the floor covering will be varnished after installation, it is recommended to use boards of light shades.
When choosing floor tiles, their physical characteristics should be taken into account:
- First of all, you need to pay attention to the moisture content of the material. For massive boards, its recommended value is 7-10%, the maximum is 12%. Industrial drying of wood on modern equipment allows you to achieve such indicators. Too wet a board after installation on the floor shrinks during operation, forms cracks and fragile joints in the locks.
- Boards that have grooves, cracks, chips and holes from knots should be immediately set aside. A material with traces of mold and mildew is also not suitable for work - it can ruin the entire floor.
- The wooden floorboard should be impregnated with an antiseptic, which will protect the future coating from the invasion of insects and the reproduction of microorganisms that are harmful to the wood. Data on such impregnation should be provided by the manufacturer in the technical documentation for the product. If a solid wood flooring will be laid on an existing wooden floor, all its structures, including logs, must also be treated with an antifungal agent before finishing.
- Impregnation of boards with fire retardants that increase the fire resistance of products must also be carried out in the factory. You should pay attention to this when buying this material.
- The geometric dimensions of a solid floorboard must meet accepted standards. Its length can be from 0.5 to 6 or even 9 m. This allows you to pick up the entire material along the length of the room or to perform its beautiful joining at the ends.
- The width of the board can also vary. Its maximum value is 450 mm, the minimum is 60 mm. The wider the board laid on the floor, the less durable the coating can be obtained, this is due to the number of its fasteners. The most optimal product width is 100-120 mm. Such boards are used more often than others.
- The thickness range of solid wood flooring elements is 18-50 mm. Laying boards of maximum thickness ensures the greatest strength of the floor, but the same parameter of the base under the coating should be much higher. The most popular boards are 20-25 mm thick. The durability of such a coating for home use is quite sufficient, moreover, it does not require a powerful substrate.
Preparation of the base for laying solid boards
Solid wood flooring can be installed in apartments and private houses, in public and administrative buildings on stone and wooden foundations. In all cases, the principle of installation of external floor elements is the same, but the preparation of the base for them has its own peculiarities. Let's take a look at them.
Concrete base
Before laying a solid board on a concrete base, it is recommended to make an intermediate layer of moisture-resistant plywood. It allows you to easily and naturally attach a finishing floor covering to its surface, which will be perfectly smooth and protected from concrete moisture.
In order to lay the plywood on the floor tightly and horizontally, a leveling screed must first be performed. To do this, the concrete floor should first be cleaned of dirt and debris, and then check it for slopes and irregularities using a two-meter rail and a building level.
If there are more than 5 mm gaps between the measuring tool and the surface to be examined, a cement screed will be required along the beacons, which can be lifted to any reasonable height from the base surface. If the gaps are less than 5 mm, the base can be filled with self-leveling mixture.
The finished screed must dry completely. It is not difficult to check its required moisture content. To do this, after 2-3 weeks, you need to lay a piece of plastic wrap on the floor surface and press it tightly around the perimeter with tape to the screed. If after a couple of days condensation is not found under the film, you can continue working with the floor.
Its essence is as follows:
- The dried screed must be covered with a layer of waterproofing. The material for it can be a plastic film or a sealing mastic on a bitumen or other basis. Cloths of polyethylene film should be laid on the floor surface with an overlap of 10-15 cm, tightly gluing their joints with metallized tape. Coating waterproofing can be applied by brush and roller.
- Then the plywood sheets should be cut along the short sides into fragments of 500-600 mm wide and the finished samples should be placed on the waterproofing in a checkerboard pattern, keeping a gap of 2-3 mm between them. An expansion joint must be left between the wall and the outer plywood sheets, which will serve to compensate for the linear expansion of the material during temperature and humidity changes in the environment.
- It is recommended to fix the laid plywood on the concrete floor using dowels and screws. There should be 15 fasteners per 1 m 2 of surface. The caps of all screws should be sunk into the thickness of the material by 2-3 mm. If, instead of a film, a coating waterproofing was used, the plywood can simply be glued to the floor using a compound compatible with the sealing mastic.
The timber should be laid in a direction perpendicular to the future location of the massive board. The top surface of all logs should be a single plane and the same level with or without a slope. The necessary adjustments to the position of the floor support system can be made using a level, cord and adjusting bar pads.
Fastening the lag to the floor should be done with dowels, screws and metal corners. The step of the fasteners is 50 cm. It is necessary to lay insulation in the form of plates or roll material in the cells between the logs.
Further work provides for two options for its development:
- On the logs, you can lay a waterproofing film, fix it on the beams with staple staples, and then mount and fix with screws a one- or two-layer subfloor under a massive 25 mm board made of moisture-resistant plywood.
- If the board has a thickness of more than 30 mm, it can be laid on logs as a topcoat immediately after waterproofing.
Important! On plywood, you can lay a board whose thickness does not exceed 25 mm, that is, the intermediate layer should not be thinner than the floor covering itself.
Wooden base
Even an old wooden floor can serve as a basis for mounting a solid board, if it is reliable and durable. In any case, before use, it should be examined before placing expensive material on such a base. During an external examination, it is worth paying attention to the presence or absence of cracks, rot, chips and severe wear on its surface.
It will not be superfluous to check the creak and wobbly of its floorboards. If they occur, part of the flooring in problem areas must be disassembled and the logs must be carefully examined. If they are rotten, it is better to dismantle such a floor and create a modern new base in its place.
In case of a positive result of the inspection, the existing floor should be treated with a belt sander, the grit size of its abrasive should correspond to values of 40 or 63. After that, the surface must be cleaned of dust and covered with a waterproofing polyethylene film.
Lay the solid plank in the direction of the base floorboards. When choosing a different direction over the existing floor, lay 12-15 mm moisture-resistant plywood sheets, sand them and remove dust. After that, a massive board can be laid on the resulting base.
Methods for mounting solid boards on the floor
A solid board can be laid on the floor in two ways. Let's get to know each of them better.
Castle method of mounting solid boards
It is used when laying products equipped with a thorn-groove fastening system, and is not particularly difficult. A massive board is usually laid perpendicular to the plane of the window openings, although another option is possible, for example, along any diagonal of the floor.
3-5 days before the start of work, the board must be brought into the room where the flooring is supposed to be laid and released from the packaging. During the subsequent time, the material adapts to the humidity of the environment and will not deform during the installation and further use of the floor. The relative humidity of the air in the room should not exceed 60%, and its temperature should be 10-30 ° C warm.
The order of work is as follows:
- The installation of the first row of boards should begin parallel to the longitudinal axis of the room, placing the products with a spike directed to its long wall. All boards must be leveled and fixed with screws, with the expectation that then the fasteners can be closed with a plinth.
- The side of the board opposite the wall should be fixed to the logs or plywood base with screws, screwing them into the groove at an angle of 45 °. The length of the screws should be 2-2.5 times the thickness of the product.
- Each board of the next row must be inserted into the groove of the element of the previous row when laying with a tenon. The maximum density of joining the floorboards with each other can be ensured by fitting them with the help of special blocks.
- The last row of massive boards, like the first, must be fixed with screws, suggesting the ability to hide the fasteners under the skirting board. An expansion gap of 8-10 mm should be left between the walls and the outer rows of boards.
Important! If a solid board flooring is laid directly on the joists, all its elements must be attached to each beam in turn.
Glue method of mounting solid boards
The glue method of mounting a solid board is used in cases where the material is made of valuable wood species or there is a need to veneer a floor of a large area, an irregular complex contour, or to perform a coating in the area of entrance openings. A board of valuable wood species, as a rule, is always thinner, and its length often does not exceed two meters - the considerable cost of the material affects.
The essence of laying a massive board with the glue method is that wooden floorboards, tightly connected at the joints with each other, are glued to the base with a special compound and additionally attached to it with self-tapping screws. They are screwed into the side joints of the boards at an angle of 45 °, and the heads of the fasteners are sunk into the wood by 3-5 mm.
The finished glued floor made of natural wood is very durable and resistant to deformation, it absolutely does not need expansion joints. However, such a coating is completely unsuitable for "warm floor" systems. In addition, in order to replace the damaged area on it, all floor boards laid on the glue will have to be dismantled.
How to lay a solid board on the floor - watch the video:
Summing up, I would like to note that the practicality of the flooring made of solid parquet boards has been proven by centuries of impeccable service, it is respectable, spectacular and, finally, simply beautiful. A board made of solid wood is always fashionable and easily lends itself to any processing, including artificial aging. Therefore, use this wonderful material that can become the main decoration of your home!
Solid wood flooring lasts for decades, and that's a fact. The material is warm, extremely aesthetic and cozy. The modern technology of laying solid boards differs significantly from the old methods of installation. Read the details below.
Solid wood is made of long strips of solid wood of valuable species: oak, beech, larch, cherry, walnut. Large producers use especially hard and exotic species - teak, bamboo, jatoba, zebrano, merbau, etc. The sizes are variable:
- Thickness of a solid board (depending on the scope of application) - 9-26 mm;
- Product width - from 100 to 220 mm;
- Length - from 300 to 1500 mm.
Along the perimeter of the planks there is a tongue-and-groove lock (“thorn-groove”), which allows you to assemble the array into a single, monolithic coating. On the wrong side, special "grooves" are cut to compensate for internal stresses and prevent deformation.
The surface can be clean or factory-treated with oil, varnish or oil-wax. In the first case, after installation, a little additional sanding and a protective coating will be required (preferably based on fat-containing mixtures, since the varnish film can crack due to temperature and humidity changes). A chamfer is cut along the perimeter in some collections, and its depth for unprotected paintwork strips must be at least 2 mm.
If earlier the shade of the flooring depended on the type of wood, today it is not so important. Modern paints and varnishes allow you to get more than 5000 shades, from snow white to deep black. Therefore, when choosing, it is better to pay attention to the hardness of the massive board, its resistance to atmospheric changes, etc.
When sorting solid floorboards, there are several categories:
The name of each manufacturer may change, but the essence is the same - 1, 2 or 3 grade, and, accordingly, the presence or absence of various defects. Of course, the price also depends on this parameter. Massive Select is a premium class coating, therefore it will cost several times more than products from the Rustic series.
Laying the board
Professional laying of the massif is carried out according to the "staggered" method or with an offset of 1/3. In this case, the method of double fixation is used: on glue and hardware (special self-tapping screws with self-drilling caps, parquet "pins").
The reason for this "reinsurance" is simple: wood is subject to deformation. That is, it changes its linear dimensions depending on humidity, temperature, season. Gluing and additional attraction of the strips with fasteners to the base will ensure the rigidity of the fastening, prevent the appearance of gaps over time, warping of the strips.
- Installation work is carried out only after the completion of all types of rough finishing, allowing humidification or heating of the air. Including tiling, plastering or painting walls and ceilings, wallpapering, etc.
- The air temperature in the room should be in the range from +18 ° С to +25 ° С, humidity - 40-60%.
- Transportation is carried out in covered vehicles, and storage is in a dry, ventilated area.
- The overwhelming majority of the produced solid boards are not intended for laying on floor heating systems.
- Before work, it is necessary to withstand the so-called acclimatization period - at least 48 hours.
- After laying in the rooms, it is necessary to maintain optimal microclimate parameters: humidity within 40-60%, and air temperature - + 18- + 22 ºС.
The most optimal is the laying of a massive board on plywood of a moisture-resistant series, for example, birch FC.
This material is considered particularly durable, since it is able to withstand significant loads in various directions, and due to its multilayer nature, changes in linear dimensions are minimal. The minimum thickness of the plywood backing is 10 mm or more.
It is also allowed to lay a solid board on a screed without plywood or a wooden floor. But with preliminary thorough preparation. In any case, you will need the following set of tools and tools for installation:
Installation of a solid board is divided into 3 stages:
Preparation of the base
The sub floor should be:
If the installation is planned on a mineral base, take care of preliminary waterproofing. For this, it is better to use special primers of the coating type. They are applied in a continuous layer on the entire surface of the floor with an institution on the walls.
Laying the cover
Installation should start from the solid wall of the room from left to right. Apply glue to the width of the strip on the base with a notched trowel. The starting board is installed with an edge groove to the wall, spacer wedges fit into the gap. The row is fixed with self-tapping screws or parquet studs at an angle of 45º with an interval of 25-30 cm.
If the laid wood is from the category of extra hard, to prevent cracking, it is recommended to pre-drill holes in the planks for self-tapping screws.
Having laid the first strip, the next one is connected to it with the help of profile tongue-and-groove locks, and the installation begins with a cut fragment. If necessary, the strips must be carefully knocked out or tightened with a mounting angle.
The last row is cut in such a way as to leave a technological gap of 8-12 mm between the coating and the wall. And the width of the slats should not be less than 5-10 cm.
You can walk on the finished solid floor 24-72 hours after the end of the work. Grinding and subsequent processing is allowed after 3-7 days.
Finishing
If the coating in production was treated with protective agents, then after laying and drying the glue, it is enough to carry out the first thorough cleaning with the help of special wood floor care products.
After a technological break, solid wood with a clean surface should be lightly sanded and applied with a protective impregnation, finishing oil or oil-wax in accordance with the instructions on the package.
Application of protective oil to the array.
For proper service of the coating at the entrance, lay dirt-proof mats, tap the furniture legs with felt pads, and install silicone mats under chairs or tables on wheels. Periodically treat the floor with special compounds containing wax and other restorative substances. This will help keep your solid board in top condition for years to come.
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It is currently one of the most popular and demanded natural wood flooring. Such an increased interest is quite understandable: solid wood floors are reliable, durable, beautiful and prestigious. However, a massive floor will only show its remarkable properties if:
there is a board of decent quality;
the accompanying materials are correctly selected;
the laying technology is precisely followed.
In this article, we will focus on the last two points.
Solid board mounting technology
For assembly, in the vast majority of cases, the technology of rigid fastening of the floor covering to the base is used. This method of laying has a number of advantages: it provides a high degree of reliability and comfort, guarantees the durability and strength of the structure, makes it possible to repair and renovate a parquet floor of high quality.
Method of rigid attachment to the base involves gluing each individual board to a previously prepared subfloor surface. In this case, the board should be pressed as tightly as possible to the base while the adhesive is completely dry. To ensure the fulfillment of this condition, it is usually used to fix the board to the base with self-tapping screws or use the downforce of a heavy load installed on top of the floor covering. The specificity of the method lies not only in compliance with all the mandatory requirements of the laying technology, but also in the knowledge of the properties and characteristics of the materials used. Let's talk about this in more detail.
Method specificity
To begin with, let's note the main feature of a solid wood floor: wood is a living material that is sensitive to changes in environmental conditions. Knowing that wood can change its properties, and understanding the cause-and-effect relationships, make it possible to eliminate errors in the process of laying and operating a solid board to zero.
1. Optimal conditions for the performance of work
Before starting installation, you should definitely take care of creating favorable working conditions.
Laying a solid board should be carried out after the end of all wet work. Otherwise, it can greatly affect the humidity in the room, which in turn will lead to deformation of the floor.
The room in which the parquet works will be carried out must be well lit.
2. The choice of materials for laying solid boards
Make a list of the tools and materials required for the job.
Moisture resistant plywood thickness 15-20 mm is the best material for use as a base on which a solid board is attached with glue and self-tapping screws: it perfectly holds self-tapping screws, well stabilizes the structure of the "parquet pie" and improves the thermal insulation of the floor.
Natural cork 2-4 mm thick can be glued for additional sound insulation, as well as a lower leveling layer.
Primer it is necessary to improve adhesion (adhesion of surfaces) when gluing various types of floor base with a layer of plywood, cork or solid board.
Glue for the installation of solid boards - one of the most important components of the quality of the "parquet pie". The durability of the finished parquet floor directly depends on the choice.
Self-tapping screws are used to ensure that the board is pressed against the plywood while it is glued to the base. The choice of the shape, size and number of self-tapping screws depends on the specific purpose of their use.
Silicone sealant intended for filling the expansion joint between the parquet floor and the walls in the room. The sealant will protect the ends of plywood and boards from moisture penetration and prevent possible deformation of the parquet.
Materials for finishing parquet (varnish, oil) may be needed to apply a protective top coat if the board does not have a factory finish.
Care products are used for professional cleaning and additional protection of the board surface.
Set of tools... To lay a solid board, you will need the following tools: a saw, a hammer, a sharp knife, a marking square, a drill, a screwdriver, a chisel, a spatula, a tape measure, a pencil, a wooden heel, spacer wedges, and a mounting foot.
3. Preparation of the base for laying solid boards
Before proceeding with the installation of the board, check the quality of the prepared base.
The solid wood parquet floor is a multi-layer structure. A concrete floor, a screed, a wooden sub-floor or a log system can act as the basis of the "parquet cake".
Regardless of the type of substrate used, it must be absolutely flat, dry, strong and clean.
The evenness of the base is checked over the entire area of the upcoming installation, using a rule of at least 2 meters in length. The clearance between the base and the rule should not exceed 2-3 mm over a length of 2000 mm. If necessary, the base should be leveled in accordance with the specified requirements.
It is recommended to use natural cork 2-4 mm thick as an additional sound-insulating layer.
The ideal base for gluing solid boards is a layer of moisture-resistant plywood, comparable to the thickness of the board. The plywood must also be securely attached to the wood or concrete base using glue and self-tapping screws.
If additional fastening with self-tapping screws is not possible, use only two-component polyurethane glue and plywood sheets with an area of not more than 0.25 m2 each. The surface of the plywood must be sanded, and the plywood itself must be laid in compliance with a 5 mm technological gap between the sheets.
All layers of the "parquet cake" must be firmly glued to each other.
It is not permissible to use underfloor heating as a base!
4. Layout scheme for a solid board
A preliminary plan of your future floor will help to avoid unnecessary corrections during the work - think over in detail the layout of the board, or better draw it on a sheet of paper. At the same time, try to adhere to the following rules.
Decide on the choice of the direction of the layout of the board in each room. Usually the board is laid in the direction of the daylight falling into the room. In elongated rooms, it is recommended to lay a massive board in the longitudinal direction (material waste will be 3-5%). In rooms of complex geometric shapes, you can lay the board diagonally (material waste will be 7-10%).
Typically, solid wood is sold in a set of lengths; in other words, the package will contain boards of different lengths. When laying, this must be taken into account: use short boards at the beginning or at the end of the row, in places under furniture and in utility rooms.
5. Step-by-step instructions for laying a solid board on a finished base
Whom to entrust the work to?
Now you know everything about solid floor assembly technology. But do not rush to apply new knowledge in practice - the first steps in any business rarely lead to perfect results. You should not turn your own house into a field for experiments; it is much safer to entrust the laying of a massive board to professional parquet flooring. And the knowledge gained with our help is better used to assess the level of professionalism of the master and control his work.
When choosing a contractor for laying a solid board,
look for a specialist with a narrow focus: master parquet flooring;
check his qualifications: work experience, certificates of completion of professional courses and seminars, recommendations, reviews and portfolio of objects;
make sure that the master has the necessary tools and equipment;
read the text of the work contract and the contractor's warranty obligations.
Of course, it is best to look for craftsmen in a large parquet company. Ideally - in the same salon where the solid board was purchased. By ordering parquet from one company, you will entrust it with full responsibility for the quality of parquet floors.
Summary
Installation of natural wood flooring is a laborious and demanding process that requires special knowledge and professional skills. The tips below will help you succeed in this challenging endeavor.
Begin parquet work last, after finishing all wet work.
Carefully study the description of the solid floor assembly technology.
Use only high-quality materials that are really necessary for installation. Follow the recommendations of the manufacturers of the materials used.
Check the subfloor for compliance with the recommended requirements.
Consider board layouts in each room.
Entrust the performance of work and the selection of related materials to professionals from a reputable parquet company.
When hiring a specialist, always enter into a work contract.
The process of laying a solid board is technologically difficult and responsible, mistakes in which, subsequently, can lead to deformation of the parquet and the need to replace it.
The price of laying a solid board
| № | Name | Note | Price | Unit | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Dismantling the previous floor without saving | Linoleum, carpet without glue / with glue | dog. | sq.m | ||
| Parquet board, panel parquet | dog. | sq.m | ||||
| Piece | without glue | dog. | sq.m | |||
| parquet | glutinous | dog. | sq.m | |||
| Lags, boards | dog. | sq.m | ||||
| Screed, tile | dog. | sq.m | ||||
| 2 | Removal of debris (flooring, etc.) when the freight elevator is operating | Parquet board, panel parquet, laminate | dog. | sq.m | ||
| Screed, tiles, debris | dog. | sq.m | ||||
| 3 | Cleaning the base | From glue | dog. | sq.m | ||
| From bitumen (bitumen mastic) | dog. | sq.m | ||||
| 4 | Leveling the floor | Local (self-leveling mixture) | dog. | sq.m | ||
| Total (mixture Vetonit 3000) up to 4mm | 600 | sq.m | ||||
| General (mixture Vetonit 4100) from 5 to 15mm | 600 | sq.m | ||||
| 5 | Base primer | Mix or glue | 75 | sq.m | ||
| Vapor barrier 2K primer | 100 | sq.m | ||||
| 6 | Laying plywood | glue sawn 300x300mm for 2K glue | 250 | sq.m | ||
| in 2 layers on glue, the second layer is glue + self-tapping screw | 500 | sq.m | ||||
| on logs in 1 layer | 250 | sq.m | ||||
| on logs in 2 layers | 500 | sq.m | ||||
| 7 | Installation lag | Anchorage to the floor | 750 | sq.m | ||
| 8 | Laying Multi-moll | Bonding to the substrate with 2-part glue | 200 | sq.m | ||
| 9 | Laying lacquered / oiled boards | Direct to plywood | from 850 | sq.m | ||
| Diagonal to plywood | from 950 | sq.m | ||||
| Straight to screed | 1000 | sq.m | ||||
| Diagonal on a screed | 1200 | sq.m | ||||
| 10 | Cutting to floor heating convectors | 1000 | running m | |||
| 11 | Insert of a hatch, lamp, etc. | 1500 | PC. | |||
| 12 | Installation of a plug expansion joint | 1000 | running m | |||
| 13 | Laying the vapor barrier film on the base | for floating floor | 100 | sq.m | ||
| 14 | Parquet grinding (machines: belt, surface grinding, angular) without taking into account the cost of consumables | New parquet | Belt + Surface Grinder + Angle | 550 | sq.m | |
| Old parquet | 600 | sq.m | ||||
| Plywood | with our styling | 200 | sq.m | |||
| with someone else's styling | 250 | sq.m | ||||
| 15 | Sealing joints around the perimeter | insulation of parquet from wall moisture | 75 | running m | ||
| 16 | Parquet varnishing | In 3 layers (either primer + 2 layers of mat varnish) | 200 | sq.m | ||
| Each additional layer | 75 | sq.m | ||||
| Extra charge for applying glossy varnish | 150 | sq.m | ||||
| 17 | Gel coating between varnish coats | Fills in chamfers, sags, depressions | 150 | running m | ||
| 18 | Coating with oil | Colorless (1 layer) | 150 | sq.m | ||
| Colorless (2 layers) | 300 | sq.m | ||||
| Colored or with colorant (1 layer) | 300 | sq.m | ||||
| Colored or with colorant (2 layers) | 600 | sq.m | ||||
| Renewal with colorless oil (1 layer) | 200 | sq.m | ||||
| Renewal with oil with colorant (1 layer) | 300 | sq.m | ||||
| 19 | Plinth installation | plastic, veneer, mdf up to 70mm high | 250 | running m | ||
| solid wood, ldf, pp up to 70mm high | 350 | running m | ||||
| veneer, mdf, height> 70 to 100mm | 350 | running m | ||||
| solid wood, ldf, ppu height> 70mm to 100mm | 400 | running m | ||||
| height over 100mm | dog. | |||||
| bent, installation in segments | dog. | |||||
| 20 | Installation of thresholds and moldings | Length up to 1 rm. | 1000 | PC. | ||
| More than 1 rm in length. | 1000 | running m | ||||
| 21 | Loading works | When the elevator is running | P / d, laminate, block parquet, floor cork | dog. | box. | |
| Plywood | dog. | sheet | ||||
| Dry mixes | dog. | bag | ||||
| No lift for each floor | P / d, laminate, block parquet, cork, chemistry | dog. ... | pack | |||
| Plywood | dog. | sheet | ||||
| Dry mixes | dog. | bag | ||||
| 22 | Covering floors after laying | Batting + fiberboard (excluding the cost of materials) | 100 | sq.m | ||
| Cardboard (excluding the cost of materials) | 75 | sq.m | ||||
| 23 | Removal of furniture and other items | dog. | ||||
| 24 | Consumables and fasteners | Consumables and fasteners | 50 | sq.m | ||
| when laying and sanding block parquet | 200 | sq.m | ||||
| 25 | Departure of the technologist (drawing up a technological map of works and estimates) within the Moscow Ring Road | 2000 | PC. | |||
| 26 | Consulting work of our master at the facility, control over the implementation of the work technology | 5000 | departure | |||
The minimum scope of work is 20 sq.m. (with a smaller amount of work, the cost of work is calculated for 20 sq.m.).
The main thing to remember is that a massive board cannot be laid on a "warm floor", hot water supply and heating routes. In addition, such a floor cannot be laid in a room where the microclimate is characterized by high humidity (except for certain types of wood), for example: in a bathhouse, sauna, swimming pool.
The main technological stages of laying solid wood:
- Checking the basis for compliance with the requirements (GosT and SNIP)
- Base primer
- Laying plywood
- Laying solid boards
What you can lay a solid board on. Types of bases for parquet
There are several types of bases for parquet, which in one case or another must be used:
Cement-sand screed (most common).
The main condition is that the base must be dry. The moisture percentage of the base must not exceed 4%. Also, the base must be sufficiently solid, strong and not subject to delamination and deformation changes. There should not be more than 2 mm differences at the base for 2 m. With an ideal temperature / humidity ratio (humidity from 40 to 60% and temperatures from 20 to 25 degrees), with a layer of concrete screed up to 50 mm thick, it will dry for at least 30 days.
Laying on such a floor cannot yet be carried out, reinforced concrete panels, in fact, represent a "bare" floor. Initially, such a base needs to be leveled, best of all with a cement-sand screed or by means of wooden logs.
Plank base made of wood-based materials.
It is a well-laid wooden floor (maybe the same parquet). Since such a coating may not suit for aesthetic reasons, it can be used as a base for parquet (if the permissible planned height and quality of laying the wooden base itself allows). Before using such a base, it is necessary to carefully check it, as well as eliminate defects in the form of squeaks, swaying, etc.
Wooden logs.
As a rule, logs are dried bars with dimensions from 30x30 to 120x120 mm, depending on the personality of an apartment or house. The logs are laid at a distance of 300-400 mm obliquely relative to the chosen direction of laying the parquet. Then they are leveled and drilled with special dowels to the base. It turns out the so-called "honeycomb". In the future, if desired, insulation, expanded clay can be laid in the honeycomb, which will allow you to insulate your floor.
Further, moisture-resistant plywood is installed on the logs with an offset, which is drilled with self-tapping screws. On top of the first layer of the plywood base, another layer of plywood is laid with an offset in a checkerboard pattern (glued and verified with self-tapping screws), also relative to the bottom layer. On top of the resulting structure, a parquet from a solid board is glued.
Checking the base for compliance with the requirements (GosT and SNIP).
Before proceeding, directly, to the laying of the floor itself, it is necessary to check the base with the help of special equipment for compliance with the requirements of GOST and SNIP. Employees of our company are more responsible in accepting the base, since this is the "weakest link" of the "parquet pie", so our requirements are slightly toughened. The exact requirements can be found in the table below.
"Requirements for substrates for parquet"
| Base quality indicator | Base type | Maximum allowable value | Normative document |
|---|---|---|---|
| Evenness | Any | Flatness deviation up to 2 mm on a base of 2 m | SNiP 3.04.01-87 |
| Slope up to 0.2% of the corresponding size of the room, but not more than 50 mm | SNiP 3.04.01-87 | ||
| Strength | Cement-sand screed | Compressive strength not less than 150 kg / cm2 (15 MPa) | SNiP 2.03.13-88 |
| Leveling putties, plywood | Peel strength of the top layer not less than 3.5 N / mm2 (according to the device "Pressomess", Germany) |
Standard Parquet Solutions Studio |
|
| Humidity | Reinforced concrete panels | Not more than 4% | VSN 9-94 |
| Cement-sand screeds, leveling putties | No more than 5% | VSN 9-94 | |
| 3,5% - 4,0% | Standard Parquet Solutions Studio |
||
| Board and wood-based materials | Not more than 12% | SNiP 3.04.01-87 VSN 9-94 |
|
| Wooden logs | No more than 18% | SNiP 3.04.01-87 | |
| Not more than 12% | Standard Parquet Solutions Studio |
||
| Stability | Any | The subsidence of the base should not exceed 1.5 mm under a load of 200 kg | VSN 9-94 |
| Purity | Any | The base must be free of dust, bitumen, mastics and other contaminants. | Standard Parquet Solutions Studio |
Base primer
First of all, we clean the screed: remove excess debris, vacuum the dust and you can start priming. Prime the base on top of the screed. It is best to use a two-pack primer as it improves adhesion (promotes excellent adhesion of the adhesive).
Laying plywood
The thickness of the plywood to be laid depends on the thickness of the selected solid board. The plywood should be at least 2/3 of the plywood plank thickness. For example, on a 20 mm thick solid wood board, plywood with a thickness of at least 15 mm is suitable.
The plywood for laying is fixed to the concrete base by means of a dowel-nail and with the help of glue. Laying is carried out crosswise with an offset of the seams. It is necessary to maintain a technological gap of at least 5-10 mm between two adjacent plywood sheets. Along the wall, such a gap should be at least 10-15 mm.
The adhesive is applied to the screed with a notched trowel, which regulates the adhesive consumption. For the best adhesion of plywood to the concrete floor, it is recommended to use glue with little or no water content. We sink self-tapping screws into the plywood to ensure the possibility of subsequent grinding (so as not to damage the expensive parquet grinding equipment). Plywood is a multilayer material and, according to GOST of the Russian Federation, has possible thickness deviations of +/- 1 mm. In order to obtain a perfectly flat base, we sand the plywood layer - this allows us to even out the differences in the base and remove the remnants of glue that may be on the surface of the plywood.
"Self-recessed self-tapping screw in plywood"
Checking the quality of solid boards
Before you start laying solid wood parquet, it is imperative to check the quality of the product. Below is a detailed analysis of quality assurance.
FAQ for opening packages with solid boards.
2-3 packs from the batch are opened and checked for compliance with the technical characteristics *:
- The presence of mechanical damage
- Compliance with the manufacturer's declared characteristics
- Coating quality
- The level is wet
- Compliance with geometric dimensions
* “Basic regulatory requirements for a solid board. Geometry tolerances "
If any deficiencies are found, work should be stopped immediately and the supplier's representative should be called. As a rule, no more than 3 opened packages are accepted for complaint. There is also a marriage standard, fixed by the GOST of the Russian Federation, - there cannot be more than 4% of the entire batch.
Laying solid wood parquet
To begin with, a solid board must "adapt" to the room where it is planned to be laid. Especially if the work is planned for the winter. To do this, packs with a solid board must be left for 3-5 days in unopened packages indoors. The packs need to be arranged in a "house". It is recommended to open packages only immediately before installation. The massive board is laid with glue and self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws are screwed in in increments of 15-20 cm. A 3-5 mm hole is made on the side of the thorn, where a self-tapping screw is screwed in (or you can use a self-recessed self-tapping screw, for example, Spax). This procedure is necessary to prevent cracking of the wood of the board when it is laid. In the process of laying a solid board, only two-component glue is used, which is applied to the plywood - this avoids premature drying. During installation, it is necessary to observe the observance of the gap along the wall. The first row of the board is laid with a groove against the wall. It is fixed through the front side in the place of the subsequent installation of the plinth. In the same way, the installation of the last row in the room is carried out. A new solid wood floor can be used within 2-3 days after it is completely dry.
We have tried to describe the entire process of laying a solid board floor quite fully. As you can see, the process has a large number of nuances and requires high qualifications of the master stacker. From our many years of experience, we can only conclude that only a parquet flooring (a person who professionally deals exclusively with laying wooden flooring) should install parquet. It is much more difficult to correct mistakes made during installation than to hire a specialist. Trust this work to professionals! For all questions of interest, please contact our managers!
