Projects of frame baths. Do-it-yourself frame bath: ready-made drawings, step-by-step guidance and recommendations for finishing Frame bath 3x4 material calculation

It is much easier and faster to build a frame bath than a brick or log house. Large-scale drawings, expensive materials and work, an impressive foundation - all this is missing. The main thing is the correct thermal and waterproofing, as well as a finished project that you can focus on.

Under such a building, a strip or column foundation is sufficient. The construction practically does not shrink due to its lightness, therefore, for the basis of a small frame bath, it is necessary to purchase only a well-dried timber measuring 20x20 cm for racks and a board. Drawings of the most simple and low-cost baths can be seen below.

The advantages of frame baths also include the absence of deformation, the ability to make engineering communications hidden, a variety of finishing materials. A building with a square of 12 m 2 also perfectly retains heat, like a log house.

In order for your bath to last a long time and not require repair, you need to pay attention to the following points:

the frame must be located on a flat surface;
you should not choose the cheapest thermal insulation;
wood must be of high quality, not thin and carefully treated with antiseptics;
if the frame raises doubts about unsteadiness, it must be reinforced with struts.

Frame baths are not afraid of shrinkage, since the material is quite elastic and is not afraid of shrinkage. The upper sections of the base lie on supporting, well-waterproofed beams. It is better if they are made of oak, larch or hornbeam. To connect the wooden belt and the foundation, I use an anchor made of reinforcement (1.4-1.6 cm) with hooks buried in concrete up to 20 cm. On the other hand, there should be threads for the nut.

Corner joints, as a rule, are made “under the paw” and fixed with anchors. Further - the extreme racks (10x15 cm) are set vertically and fixed with jibs. The thickness of the racks must match the thickness of the insulation.

For buildings 3x4 m, it is permissible to install struts on corner posts.

If the bath is two-story, it is better to put struts in each span. The step of the frame racks is 0.6-0.8 m. They are attached to the support beam with steel brackets. The bars must be at least 5x15 cm in cross section.

Features of the construction of a frame bath

The frame bath will last long enough when using high-quality and reliable thermal and waterproofing. Outside, the building can be protected from external influences with siding or a blockhouse, which will make the bathhouse look like a log house and protect it from rot or mold.

In fact, a mini-bath is quite possible to equip yourself. No special skills are required. The main thing is to imagine how it should look (with or without a terrace), think over ergonomic heating and drainage, thermal insulation and get acquainted with typical options. Photos of projects of 3x4 frame baths with your own hands can be viewed below.

A ready-made project for a small bath building can be ordered from a number of companies, however, in order not to be disappointed in the end and, if desired, everything can be done independently. To begin with, it is necessary to lay the foundation, which means buying asbestos-cement pipes up to 40 m long and at least 10 cm in diameter. It is also necessary to drill a well - diameter - 20 cm, depth - 1.5 m. And, prepare a solution from water, fine gravel , cement and sand.

An important stage in the construction of a do-it-yourself bath is strapping, for which 5x10 cm boards treated with antiseptic solutions are needed. The walls are marked and the material is laid along the outer contour. The board lies on the outer edges and is fastened with nails. The plinth is connected with supports.

Strappings (upper, lower) - are made of boards, the roofing material flooring is cut off from the lower surface. All work carried out is controlled by the level. In case of deviation, additional laying of roofing is carried out. In order for the structure to be strong, the strapping and logs are fixed using pre-mounted metal plates. They also need to be treated with an antiseptic.

The construction of walls requires measuring the footage between the axes. If there is no docking with the walls, 0.6 m is enough, if available, a gap of 0.4 m is required.

Rack to rack spacing will depend on the size of the window openings and doors. Frames, after fixing, must be checked for an exact match with rectangular parameters. Rafter structures are best assembled on an open plot of land. The roof is provided with a ventilation system. To give the structure rigidity, the walls are upholstered with plaster shingles.

The popularity of frame technology is explained by lower construction costs and the high speed of building construction. It is used to build both commercial and residential buildings. Frame baths are especially in demand today. You can easily build them yourself on your suburban area. A 5x5 frame bath is one of the most popular building options that you can build yourself.

Where to start building a bath

Before starting the construction of a frame bath, it is worth planning the placement of the building. Pay attention to such features:

It is important to determine where the bath will stand - separately or near the selected building on the site.
Choose a place for the bath, taking into account the location of engineering networks, as well as mark the ways of laying communications.
Find out the features of the soil on the site in order to choose a foundation.
Develop a new or choose an existing sauna project, taking into account your own requirements.

Advice! The more detailed the bath project is, the easier it will be to implement.

Ready-made projects are offered by many organizations. They can also order an individual project. The minimum size is 3x4 m. The optimal aspect ratio of the bath is 5x5 m.

Bathhouse project

In order not to work in vain on creating drawings, you can choose an already created project as the basis. In this case, the layout of the frame structure must correspond to the building area. Then it will be necessary to make some amendments to it.

For a future frame building project, it is important to consider:

layout - it is important for the rational distribution of space;
costs for the construction and operation of a frame bath;
terms of work;
features of the foundation device.

All interior spaces are arranged in accordance with the number of pieces of furniture and their size. For example, when creating a drawing of a frame structure, the length of the benches is taken into account. To make it comfortable to stay in the relaxation room after taking water procedures, a table, a sofa and armchairs are installed in it.

It is important to correctly determine the location of the dressing room in the frame structure. It is designed in such a way that cold air does not enter the bath when the doors are opened. In the washing compartment of the frame structure, the location of the water tank should be provided. Brooms are dried in a warm attic. Comfortable rest is possible when creating a veranda or terrace.

Advantages of frame structures

The construction of a frame bath requires compliance with certain rules. Such a structure consists of a supporting structure, which is sheathed with OSB panels. Insulation and vapor barrier are laid between the wall plates.

Advice! You can save on the construction of a frame structure by choosing straw or sawdust for insulation.

A frame bath made of such materials is lightweight and therefore does not require the creation of an impressive foundation. It is easy to build it yourself.

The obvious advantages of frame construction are:

low costs for the construction of the foundation;
all work can be done independently, without using heavy equipment;
short construction time.

The frame technology also has its drawbacks, which require mentioning. The main disadvantage of such baths is their increased fire hazard. For this reason, it is better to deal with the careful processing of all structural elements with refractory compounds. For wiring in frame construction, non-combustible enclosures should be selected.

Important! Particular attention in the frame bath is paid to the moisture insulation of the walls. Mineral heat insulators perfectly absorb moisture, as a result of which their positive properties are lost.

Ready baths

It is not always possible to start building a bath with your own hands. In the same situation, they buy a finished structure. The kit includes the following items:

mounting beam - it is used to create a frame;
fastener kit;
material for flooring;
roofing;
wall panels;
documentation package.

The set of documents contains project drawings and a description of the assembly instructions.

Attention! The walls in the already manufactured baths are made of SIP panels, which facilitates the assembly process.

materials

Materials are prepared in advance so that there is no need to buy them in addition. For any frame bath you need:

Important! It is better not to use polyurethane foam for insulation. At high temperatures, it starts to melt. In addition, this material is combustible.

You will also need to prepare nails and screws of various lengths. Given the high humidity inside the bath, galvanized fasteners should be used.

Bath construction algorithm

A columnar base is best suited for a frame bath. It can be built using asbestos-cement pipes. You will need elements with a diameter of 20 cm and a length of 2 m. They should be deepened into wells by 1.5 m and poured with concrete-crushed stone mortar. The number of pillars varies depending on the size of the structure. For a 3x4 m frame bath, 12 pieces are required. When building a 5x5 m bath, you need to prepare 18 pillars.

After the installation of the bath supports, a strapping of timber is attached to them. Elements are fastened with nails. Roofing material is necessarily laid under the strapping bars - to ensure waterproofing.

Important! For the tightest fit of the strapping to the foundation of the bath, it is attached to the supports on metal corners.

Logs from boards are laid on the strapping - they will be the basis of the bath floor. The frame is treated with an antiseptic and a refractory agent. The installation of the walls of the bath is carried out in the following order:

Supports are installed at the corners, between which intermediate racks are placed.
Sheets of sheathing of the walls of the bath are fixed to the racks on self-tapping screws.
After finishing the sewing of the walls, door and window openings are formed.

Important! During the sheathing of the walls of the bath, OSB sheets should be checked for the correctness of their location. To do this, use the level.

The rafter system for a frame bath is assembled on the ground, and then raised to the roof. Only then the crate is fixed and the roofing is laid. After installing the main frame, doors and windows are mounted. For self-construction of a frame bath you will need:

three days for the construction of the foundation;
three days for the installation of piping with walls;
two days for the rafter system;
two days for laying the roof, installing windows and doors, as well as finishing.

Knowing these features helps to design and build a durable and practical bath for the whole family.

Bath interior and exterior

For external finishing of frame baths, imitation of timber or siding panels are used. Interior decoration requires special attention. First you need to choose a lining. For the rest room and vestibule, you can choose pine. It does not need to be looked after, and it looks quite impressive.

The steam room is trimmed with linden or larch. These breeds are not afraid of high temperatures and are able to retain color. Sometimes other wood is chosen:

abachi - a tree from tropical forests with low thermal conductivity;
cedar - when heated, it begins to release essential compounds that are beneficial to the body;
aspen - this tree is resistant to decay and mold development.

Important! The lining is attached to the vapor barrier in such a way that there is a gap between the wood and the foil material.

A simple 5x5 frame bath project

When creating your own bath, you should pay attention to existing projects. A capacious building of a 5x5 frame type has several types of premises:

vestibule - clothes hangers, a refrigerator are placed here;
a rest room in this room it is worth installing a table and a sofa;
washing - it should warm up well;
steam room.

The steam room in the bath should be finished with an aspen clapboard. In this room, a corner shelf is installed, having dimensions of 90x270x270 cm. An additional narrow shelf is also installed in the steam room. The oven is lined with bricks 120x120 cm. In the steam room, a small window is made, having a width of 30 cm.

It is convenient to place a 90x90 cm shower in the washing compartment. A 90x200 cm sunbed and a hot water tank are also equipped here. The rest room in the bath is made spacious - 190x320 cm. A table with a sofa is installed in this room. The window in the rest room is made large - so that a lot of light enters it.

A 5x5 frame bath is installed on a columnar foundation. This is due to its low weight and low load on the ground.

When building a frame-type bath, you should follow the advice of experienced builders. This will help build a durable building. It is important to follow these guidelines:

It is necessary to carefully fix the vapor barrier layer at the junction of the walls and the floor of the bath. This affects the durability of the building.
Additionally, you can create a reliable thermal insulation of the frame bath from the side of the street. To do this, additional layers of hydro and thermal insulation are attached under the skin of the bath.
From the inside, the lining of the bath should not be painted or opened with varnishes. Such compounds are capable of releasing toxic substances.

The ceiling and flooring in the bath are insulated with special diligence. It is necessary to use the same materials that were used for wall insulation. The frame bath - the favorable and far-sighted decision. Its construction will not take much time. If you develop a bath project in detail and prepare all the necessary materials, you can build a bath quickly and efficiently. Such an object will be the pride of the owners of the site.

conclusions

It is quite simple to build a 5x5 frame bath on your site. As a base, a light columnar foundation is chosen. The walls are made of beams and OSB panels. It is important to properly waterproof the grillage and roof elements. This will extend the life of the building. Based on ready-made projects, you can create your own drawing of a frame bath that meets the requirements of safety and efficiency.

There are many arguments in favor of building a bath yourself, and the most important is cost savings. The average cost of a finished project when contacting specialized firms is 90,000–100,000 rubles, while do-it-yourself work is 3–4 times cheaper. Particular attention is paid to the base of the bath, as it is designed for long-term operation. Even when ordering a variant from a wooden log house, it is more expedient to make the foundation yourself, rather than contacting specialists. The recommended size is 3x4 m, which is enough to accommodate the steam room, washing and relaxation areas, with the optimal consumption of building materials and the occupied usable area of the site.

Tape, pile, screw, columnar or slab varieties are suitable for this building. When determining which one is better to lay, take into account: soil parameters, expected loads and wall materials. Each option has its own advantages:

1. Tape - the main one, often used in individual construction. A 3x4 m bath is considered simple and light, block masonry or pouring a monolith of concrete is equally acceptable.

2. Columnar is laid on dense soils, provided that the weight of the walls is insignificant. The pillars are poured from concrete, or laid out from bricks or blocks in the corners of the bath and at the junction of the walls. This is a cost-effective technology, but it is not recommended for use in areas with loose soils and with significant volumes of runoff and drains.

3. The slab base is valued for compatibility with any type of soil and endurance of weight loads. But for a small bath within 3x4 m, there is no need to place a solid monolith under it, an exception is made only for two-story buildings (for which, too, given the small area, it is enough to fill in the tape base).

5. The pile-grillage base implies additional strapping with a channel or bar. In this case, when laying, piles should be screwed into the ground to a certain depth and poured with concrete.

The first two varieties are used most often; the tape is considered the optimal foundation for a small bath 3x4 m in size. In addition to versatility, it is valued for its simplicity: with the right organization of the workflow, it can be poured in 1 day.

Step-by-step instructions for erecting a strip base

First of all, they are determined with the material of the walls and the location of the building. The communication scheme and the organization of the drain are thought out in advance, as well as openings for windows and doors, drafts are unacceptable. It is recommended to make a foundation near the house and the pool (if the latter is available), the septic tank or cesspool are placed at a distance of 2–5 m. The work itself is carried out according to the following scheme:

Trench digging.
Formwork placement.
Preparation of the reinforcing frame, laying the drain and other communications.
Pouring concrete.
Formwork removal, waterproofing and insulation of the foundation with a blind area, backfilling.

1. Marking and laying the foundation.

The first three stages are preparatory: the site is cleared of plants, dirt and debris. The territory is marked along the perimeter of the future bath with the help of pegs and a rope, space is freed up to accommodate the excavated soil, taking into account the approximate depth of the trench of 2.5 m. A pillow of sand (15 cm) and crushed stone (10 cm) is filled and compacted at the bottom. The depth of a shallow strip foundation for a bath (assembled from blocks) can be smaller, but the backfilling of drainage should not be skipped in any case. Formwork 3x4 m in size can be made from ordinary boards, knocking them down along the perimeter of the building.

2. Reinforcement and laying of communications.

Metal rods are used, 10-14 mm thick, best corrugated. The formwork is protected from the flow of a liquid solution; glassine is well suited for this purpose. To calculate the number of tiers of reinforcement, it is recommended to measure the upper level of the fill; bricks or blocks are placed at the bottom to prevent metal from touching the ground. Reinforcement knitting starts from the corners, the frame is connected with wire. The fewer joints, the better, the optimal cell size is 20 × 30 cm, as if inside the foundation (that is, the bars should not go outside, otherwise they will be susceptible to corrosion).

The frame for a small bath is most convenient to assemble from the outside. For knitting corners, proven schemes are used: with anchoring with L-shaped elements, U- and L-shaped clamps, with an overlap of transverse reinforcement. At this stage, all kinds of communications are laid, according to a pre-prepared drawing. For fast tying, a special crochet hook is well suited. It is allowed to pour the foundation with concrete only after collecting the entire reinforcing frame.

3. Concreting.

A solution is prepared from standard components: cement, sand, crushed stone and water. When building a foundation for a bathhouse with your own hands, the quality of the mixture is of great importance; it is better to use a concrete mixer. The ingredients are purchased from trusted manufacturers: cement from M400, river sand and crushed stone of hard rocks, with a fraction size in the range of 20–30 mm. The recommended proportions are 1:3:3 or 1:2:4, it is desirable to carry out a preliminary calculation of the mixture consumption, taking into account the depth of the foundation, with dimensions of 3x4 m. The finished mortar remains in the formwork until it hardens, the concrete is leveled from above with a trowel.

Protection against moisture and heat loss

Before filling the soil, the foundation is waterproofed and insulated. This stage is very important, it is impossible to save on the quality of building materials. In the role of coating waterproofing, bituminous mastics have proven themselves well, for insulation - polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene.

It is allowed to use roll pasting materials. The main thing is to make sure that the insulation and mastic are compatible, the latter should have a water base (which is prescribed in the instructions). On strongly heaving areas, the blind area is insulated, along the perimeter of the bath. A small layer of sand is poured around the foundation, and only then - soil.

Expert advice

To achieve maximum effect, it is important to observe the following nuances of technology:

It is best to pour a strip foundation for the construction of a bath in one go.
The next stage is started after the completion of the previous one: tying the frame, hardening of the solution (concrete is checked for moisture), drying of the waterproofing layer.
To compensate for temperature differences during freezing of the soil and prevent mechanical shifts, expansion joints are laid along the entire height of the foundation. For a bath, the recommended interval is 60 cm, in areas with moving soil - 15–30 cm. The seams, 10 cm wide, are subsequently filled with heat or waterproofing materials.
In areas with a high level of groundwater, drainage pipes are laid along the perimeter of the bath, at the depth of the foundation cushion.

Common Mistakes

Technology violations include:

Absence or improper organization of water drainage in the bath.
Skip the stage of hydro and thermal insulation.
Use of low quality concrete.

There is a misconception that there is no need for sewerage for rarely visited baths without a toilet. That is, the building is located above the cesspool or at a close distance from it, the drains are brought to the gravel backfill. But at the same time, the risk of raising groundwater is ignored and in winter, in addition to freezing the soil and the inevitable deformation of the base, the floors in the room cool down. A properly organized foundation for a bath with a drain has a pipe leading to a septic tank or sewer, with a length of at least 2 m from the walls.

The construction of a bath is necessary at any summer cottage and at a country house. But traditional options that use brick or timber have a number of disadvantages. But the frame structures deprived of them must be erected using a special technology.

photos

Peculiarities

It is very difficult to build buildings, even such minor ones as a bathhouse, with your own hands from brick or logs. You will need to spend a lot of money on materials, prepare flawless drawings. And without the help of someone, it will not be possible to do such a job at all. Therefore, frame projects deserve increased attention. Moreover, the consumption of wood, compared with conventional timber structures, is reduced by exactly half.

The buildings are relatively light, even if they are made in dimensions of 6 by 4 or 6x6 m; if the size of the structure is 3x4, 4x4 m, this circumstance manifests itself even more. Therefore, there is no need to prepare solid foundations. You can simultaneously finish the external and internal walls, and the overall installation speed increases markedly. The smallest area of the steam room is 250x250 cm. It is recommended to use asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 100 and a length of 4000 mm for the foundation, which are filled with concrete.

All wooden elements are thoroughly dried before installation. The rafters are assembled on the ground, after which they are alternately lifted and placed above the frame racks. The roof is made only in a ventilated version.

It is advisable not to raise the ceiling in the steam room above 210 cm. Only after finishing the frame, the bath is divided into separate rooms.

Advantages and disadvantages

The undeniable advantages of the construction of frame baths are:

Ease of construction;
cheap construction (small payment for materials);
simplification of foundation work in comparison with other options;
poor thermal conductivity;
the ability to make communication channels inside the walls and not spoil the appearance;

exclusion of shrinkage;
no need for complex construction equipment;
environmental safety (a rarity for country budget buildings);
the ability to perform all the work without the involvement of specialists;
exclusion of wet work - you can build in winter and even where there is no sustainable water supply;
a wide variety of finishes.

photos

But after carefully studying the reviews of owners and developers, you can immediately find certain shortcomings. Each of them can be eliminated by timely measures, only because it is necessary to properly understand possible problems. Frame baths in their pure form quickly cool down, and therefore an ugly fungus appears inside after a short time. To cope with this difficulty, you need to use only the highest quality heaters.

Styrofoam or plain mineral wool do not serve effectively enough, and the first option also catches fire easily.

You can extend the life of the shield bath if you impregnate all used timber and boards with special antiseptics. After 18-24 months, the frame shrinkage is sometimes 80-100 mm. As a result, the outer and inner finishes are deformed. You can reduce this risk if you take lumber that has undergone chamber drying.

Design subtleties

The ease of construction and its accessibility for non-professionals does not mean that you can safely get to work without preparation. Even the presence of experience in such work does not give grounds for a complacent attitude. A well-thought-out project and drawings of the future structure will help to avoid serious mistakes.

On a small area (3x4 or 4x4 m), it is required to maximize the intensity of space use. If possible, such small baths should generally be avoided if there is sufficient territory for building.

The simplest scheme is when the steam room, shower room, boiler room and dressing room are combined. But such a step is acceptable only for mini structures or transportable baths, because it is not possible to distribute the temperature as expected. Therefore, they try to create even with the smallest dimensions, albeit very small, but autonomous rooms. A 3x4 m bath may well be heated by a small boiler or a wood-burning stove. Some designers even find the opportunity to supplement it with a veranda or terrace.

Minimal-sized projects have a number of valuable properties:

low consumption of building materials;
almost complete exclusion of waste;
high speed of work;
strength and reliability (since it is not required to save on the quality of components in a small area).

It should be remembered that even a small one-story extension to the house must be registered with the cadastral authorities.

On a larger plot, it is quite possible to build a 6x6 bathhouse: it will already allow not only to wash off the dirt from itself, but also to invite the whole family and even a group of friends. Typical projects with such sides imply a significant area of \u200b\u200bthe rest room - it can reach 20 m2. Most often, it is there that they also have a staircase connecting the first floor with the attic.

A two-story bath is superior to a one-story bath just because it allows you to organize additional space for living and leisure. Often there are rooms for receiving guests, bedrooms, billiard tables or other sports equipment.

Thanks to the frame technology, the vast majority of the costs relate to the base of the building, and if it already exists, the subsequent stages of work will be much more affordable.

In the construction of two floors, the first step is to create a foundation of supporting pillars, and the base must be covered with a layer of waterproofing. Experts recommend building a bath truss system from boards with a section of 10x5 cm, and a 2.2 cm thick board usually goes to the crate.

The frame-panel structure is assembled according to the principle of a toy constructor. It is not difficult to find combinations of elements suitable for the construction of a washing room with a pool, then they are only placed on a prepared frame. The kit usually comes with a detailed technological instruction that helps to avoid mistakes - if only it is strictly observed. In the case of mobile baths, everything is even simpler - they are not assembled at construction sites, but at industrial enterprises. All that remains for the customers is only to supplement the finished blocks with the necessary details.

Most projects involve the use of gable roofs, the attic space under them is not organized or it is very small. Inside, they often put bath equipment. When choosing the type of foundation, they are guided by the category of soil and its condition. The mass of the building, even if we take into account the presence of a second floor in a number of options, is relatively small. The design indicators of insulation depend on whether the bath will be used all year round or whether it is intended only for the warm season.

Calculation of the amount of materials

It is not so difficult to calculate the need for metal frame nodes: any seller can do this after learning the required dimensions and design. In standard projects, the exact consumption of metal is normalized, and if they are made to order, then all calculations are undertaken by the designers. But all the same, they must be controlled, since even on iron material, some builders can make “mistakes” in their favor. Before calculating the needs for wood, you need to choose whether a beam or a log will be used in this case. Timber-based structures are preferable because:

shrinkage is noticeably reduced;
there are no strict restrictions on size and geometry;
work is greatly simplified.

The most durable timber, according to experts, is made from conifers, moreover, they are less susceptible to the destructive action of insects and microorganisms gnawing wood. The standard dimensions of the timber, taken into account in the calculations, range from 10x10 to 20x20 cm. The volume is calculated by multiplying the length by the height and by the thickness of a single element.

Some masters say that you need to add 10-30% to the result. But this step is frankly stupid, because on the contrary, you will have to spend less timber - it is not mounted on window and door openings.

Inexperienced customers and even builders replace the length of the perimeter with an area, and then they are forced to stop work, buy the missing materials and spend money on their transportation. In order not to be mistaken, you should also carefully check the labeling and accompanying documents. In some cases, on the price tags and in the speeches of the sellers, the dimensions of the timber are somewhat larger than it actually is.

To further save money, you can change the timber to boards, and make the cladding from plastic lining or profile sheets. When working, only boards of the highest category are acceptable.

Construction stages

Having calculated the need for materials and choosing the dimensions of the frame bath, you need to deal with the sequence of construction work. There are no fundamental differences from the construction of other baths or city houses in the order of stages, but each of them has its own specifics.

Foundation

So, when building a base, it is best to use columnar structures. They are assembled from asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of approximately 10 cm, reinforced from the inside with concrete. Then they mark out the external contours and, with the help of a drill, drill openings that go 2 m deep.

For your information: the depth in some cases may be more or less. This decision is made, focusing on the type of soil and the depth of groundwater. Each pipe is inserted into the opening and covered with coarse sand from above, besides, it is thoroughly rammed. When pouring, concrete is used, which is prepared from:

1 part of cement M200;
4 parts of sand;
7.5 parts of small gravel;
3 parts pure water.

According to the step-by-step instructions, the filling of the pipes should be smooth, a strong steel plate is placed on each of them when ready. The mounted pipes must dry, and only then comes the turn to the installation of the lower trim. The box is treated with disinfectants and covered with a layer of waterproofing. Logs are placed on top of the strapping, a draft floor is formed from them. In the gap separating the structure from the log and the strapping, a roofing material is laid, sometimes this place is abundantly smeared with mastic.

The construction of the foundation under the frame bath, which has two or three floors, must take into account the total load and snow pressure. Wooden bases are allowed only for miniature baths, the total area of \u200b\u200bwhich is 12 square meters. m or less. Increased attention will need to be paid to calculating the diameter of the beam and leveling the surfaces.

Be sure to put several bars on the same level, trimmed around the perimeter with stakes. Such systems perform well on clay soils, where they serve stably for many years.

During the construction of baths on screw piles, there is no need to join the supporting structures using beams or channels. Such supports help to build even on a hillside or on a heavily eroded bank of a river with a rapid current. The introduction of piles into the ground is carried out either with the involvement of special equipment, or through the efforts of several builders at the same time. When working, it is strictly forbidden to deviate the support from the horizon line.

On every fourth turn, the position of the pile is carefully verified using a magnetic level. According to the technology, it is forbidden to extract structures that have bent during twisting to the outside, their position is corrected using a rotary level. To get rid of the gaps separating the piles and the surrounding soil, you can use any durable concrete and reinforcement fragments. After completing the installation, the piles are checked for evenness. If everything is in order, heads are welded on top of them; the drain in the bath is always equipped not only in the washing room, but also in the steam room.

Many try to put a bath on a tape basis. Such a solution is acceptable even on soil prone to movement and subsidence, which can easily swell. The tape is divided into Finnish and Canadian; both technological schools are simple, but require careful and responsible approach. Monolithic foundations are erected directly on the construction site, and prefabricated foundations are only laid and connected. Most often, they are guided by a shallow depth (up to 50 cm), such a tape is evenly spread under the bearing walls.

The choice of a suitable foundation option is often difficult without geological surveys. The simplest check can be done independently: the type of soil and its visual characteristics are recognized by digging a trench 150 cm deep. They carefully evaluate not only the height of groundwater, but also the level at which the earth freezes.

For any type of foundation, the construction site is cleared in advance of grasses and bushes, flowers and turf. There should not even be stumps, roots and any objects that could interfere with construction.

Strong cords made of colored fabrics help to simplify marking. In accordance with the markup, you need to dig a recess for the foundation, which will be 50 cm deeper and 400 cm wider than the prepared guideline. The pillow of the building is made of sand, which is abundantly filled with water and rammed. Then cover the first layer with rubble. Waterproofing is placed along the side planes of the trench. Traditionally, roofing material is used, although more and more often it is being replaced by a more modern penetron.

The formwork is created as follows: the upper edge of the waterproofing is used for laying boards, their thickness is 50 mm, and their width is a maximum of 1.5 m. wire reinforcement, wound up 50 mm below the top point of the formwork (later completely hidden by a layer of concrete). Concreting is carried out with a mixture of cement with sand and gravel, in terms of density it is similar to dense sour cream. Additional hardening is achieved by plasticizers.

It is recommended to prepare the mortar yourself, as it is much faster than getting ready mix from the factory. In addition, this approach will help preserve the quality of the cold joint, avoid water seeping through it, which would spoil the base. And, importantly, the differences in cost can be neglected. After completing the work, the foundation is covered with a liquid-impervious material. Concrete will harden in 24 hours, but it will gain final strength only after a few weeks.

The formwork must be made using even and strong panels so that its appearance is perfect. Nails are hammered in strictly from the inside to the outside. If you do the opposite, it will be much more difficult to remove the shields. When working on formwork structures, you need to immediately think about outlets for sewerage, water supply and electrical cables. If they are not immediately provided, then it will be necessary to hollow and violate the quality of the monolith.

It is quite acceptable to put a strip foundation in the form of a monolithic belt under a frame bath if the fertile soil layer is taken out and replaced with sprinkled sand.

Both a monolithic solution and a shallow structure, and a non-buried base must be protected from the force of frost heaving. For this use:

drainage means;
side edges;
insulation around the blind area;
removal of heaving soils with their replacement with sand or crushed stone.

Shallow depth belts should not be used on various slopes: there they will not withstand significant shear forces. When building on dusty sand or embankment, an expansion slab is placed below. A properly executed monolith always has a greater height than width. Moreover, the difference is 2-4 times; such a step will make the basement part of the structure optimal, it will be possible to form both the overlap of the beams and the dirt floors.

Walls and floor

They begin to work by placing special racks that will be fixed by the upper strapping. In the intervals between them, other racks are added. They will make the bath stronger and more stable. The box is covered with boards, attached to the screws. Consistently assembling the details, they form the final design.

In frame buildings, windows and doors are mounted immediately, without waiting for the complete completion of work.

In most frame baths, floors are created from logs and boards, but it will not be possible to accurately determine the appropriate size of these elements without complex calculations. But this is not necessary - private developers may well get by with ready-made average values. In most cases, boards with a thickness of 30-40 mm and finishing logs based on a bar with a section of 100x150 mm are acceptable. The thickness of the board, expressed in millimeters, should approximately correspond to the gap between the lags, expressed in centimeters.

If thermal insulation is used, the gaps between the lags of the finishing decks are corrected taking into account the thermal insulation layer created.

As for the basic materials, all long-serving types of wood are suitable for creating a floor in a frame bath. But poplar and other soft wood are unacceptable. Before buying and using, you should carefully check the dryness and integrity of the material, the absence of cracks, splits and other problems. Ideally, all lumber should come from the same kiln-dried lot.

It is desirable to make a finishing flooring from an edged or tongue-and-groove board, since it does not need to be further polished, but the rough base can also be unedged.

An alternative to wooden structures is often a self-leveling floor. This solution has become more and more popular over the years, pushing ceramic and stone surfaces into the background. The key advantages of self-leveling floor can be considered:

integrity of the created coating;
high mechanical strength and excellent wear resistance;
zero level of fire danger;
absence of dust and harmful emissions during operation;
a significant variety of design options, including decoration with three-dimensional drawings;
care is much easier than for wooden structures.

But there are also objective weaknesses: for example, the self-leveling floor finally hardens only after a few days, when you can walk on the wooden floor right away. There is a high risk of scratches and dirt, and the cost of such a coating is very high. Any bath floors are recommended to be made with a slope towards the drain, this will prevent water and soap suds from spreading in all directions. The self-leveling floor can be done horizontally (without a slope) or the mixture can be poured onto a base that already has a slope. The first option requires carefully sealing the intersections of the floor with the walls, and the second is more difficult to perform, but directs all the liquid in the right direction at once.

The self-leveling floor cannot be simply “poured”: its substrate is prepared very carefully. On top of the tree, you need to lay powerful concrete screeds, and with reinforcement. The sooner the mixture is poured, the better - it rapidly loses fluidity, and if this happens before the end of work, all costs will be in vain. Most often, the floors are poured together.

When working with walls, in most cases, the front skin is made on the basis of lining or chipboard. Waterproofing is provided by parchment laid under the outer skin. Only then is a heater used, which must be ideally environmentally friendly and safe in terms of fire. The total thickness of the cake and its individual layers is determined by the climatic parameters of the territory and the peculiarities of using a frame bath.

A year-round building should have not only thicker walls, but also a special vapor barrier. Polyethylene film is considered the best solution for it.

Painting wall sheathing, even in dressing rooms, is undesirable, because even the safest paint and varnish vapors can be harmful to health. When thinking over the design of the walls, special attention is paid to how ventilation ducts and electrical wires will pass through them. Since flammable materials are used for exterior decoration, and excess moisture is often present in the air, it is worth giving preference to closed, thoroughly insulated cable ducts.

If the rooms are finished with boards, their thickness should be approximately 30 mm. With a smaller value, strength suffers, with a larger one, the structure becomes heavy.

Roof

The basic parts used in the construction of the roof of the frame bath are gradually laid and assembled together directly on the site. The farm should stand on the prepared frame base. To simplify the work on creating a roof, placing it on a rough boardwalk helps. An exemplary pie always includes ventilation systems, so the gap from the rafters to the counter beam is filled with a vapor barrier. The crate must be attached to the beam.

Then it's time to make gables from oriented slabs or quality boards. In most cases, it is worth limiting yourself to the simplest shed roof, which is performed quickly and without unnecessary difficulties. But if you choose a completely original design, not every specialist will be able to complete the work competently and within the allotted time.

What is very important, with the same area, gable solutions turn out to be 50-100% more expensive, and this difference is not justified even by their specific capabilities. With the right calculation, a covering with one slope will last for many years and all this time it will be extremely convenient to use.

Do-it-yourself flat roofs on baths are not recommended. The cost-effectiveness of such a choice is only apparent - the need for powerful artificial ventilation with natural weakness absorbs all the savings. According to qualified builders, a shed roof should be located under a general slope of 20 to 30 degrees. Under this condition, liquid and solid precipitation will spontaneously descend.

There are two ways to create a slope: intentionally making the walls uneven in height or installing racks. With the second option, the material is spent less, but the heat will keep worse.

Experienced roofers know for sure that as the pitch of the roof decreases, more and more smooth face materials have to be used. But at an angle of less than 10 degrees, even the best solutions do not allow you to get rid of the puddles and snow drifts that form. Mauerlat is formed from a coniferous timber with a cross section of at least 15x15 cm. Outside, it is covered with a layer of waterproofing (lubricated with mastic or wrapped with roofing material). Rafters are made exclusively from flat boards with a section of 5x15 cm, which are made of hardwoods.

With such dimensions, an optimal margin of safety is achieved and it remains possible to mount insulation up to 15 cm thick, if necessary. For your information: the length of the rafters is calculated with reservation for overhangs, which improve the protection of walls from water. All ends of the rafter legs are equipped with cuts for power plates, which are fastened with nails or metal overlays. The crate is attached to the legs of the rafters at a right angle.

Under certain roofing materials that are prone to deformation, an inextricable crate based on moisture-resistant plywood is necessarily created.

In other cases, they put gratings of slats, their thickness varies from 2.5 to 3 cm. But in each specific case, of course, this thickness should be uniform throughout the entire volume. It is advisable to cover baths with shed roofs with ondulin, corrugated board, metal or soft tiles. If there is a simple ceiling below, without an attic or attic, it is required to lay a slab or roll insulation. Regardless, use:

hydrophobic film;
flame retardant and antiseptic impregnations;
fasteners of a special sample;
carefully selected and tested tools.

Shed type roofs should be supported by rafters spaced in 0.5-0.8 m increments. The roofing material should be attached to the base using special self-tapping screws, including synthetic rubber caps. These tops help block water seepage. If there is no specialized fastener, you need to use simple self-tapping screws, supplementing them with external rubber gaskets. Then the pediments are sewn up, the drain is equipped - this completes the external work on the frame bath.

Finishing

No matter how reliable and durable the created “box” is, it will not work to be limited to it. It is imperative to protect these structures from negative external influences and at the same time make them more attractive.

Exterior wall decoration helps developers and designers to express their tastes and aesthetic priorities. Often they try to sheathe them with siding, clapboard. Slightly in popularity, these materials are inferior to the block house and plaster.

Before applying any cladding, you need to check the draft walls. They should not even have minor cracks, the skin joints should fit snugly against each other. With the help of vinyl siding, you can create a variety of visual pictures: an imitation of a simple tree, and a "brick" wall, and something high-tech in spirit. Plastic panels perform no less well, and if you need to increase the natural appearance of the bath to the limit, you should choose a block house.

In the case of choosing a lining, it is required to withstand several days in order for acclimatization to take place.

Decorating a frame bath from the inside is no less important than from the outside. It is recommended to give preference to environmentally friendly materials, their increased cost is fully justified. The choice of design in interior decoration is now unlimited, you can use any style, not necessarily traditional Russian. Dressing rooms are trimmed with both hardwood and coniferous wood. But it is advisable to choose the color as calm and balanced as possible, given the purpose of the bath.

photos

Washing compartments are covered with clapboard, soaked in advance with mixtures that block rotting. Some consumers use plastic panels and even polycarbonate sheets. In the steam room there is no place for coniferous wood, with the exception of cedar. Among the hardwood varieties, the first place is invariably linden, which does not burn when touched and does not fade during long-term operation. In more budget projects, preference is given to aspen and alder.

You can decorate a sauna brick oven with tiles: this option is the simplest, cheapest and at the same time allows you to provide an attractive appearance. Tiles should not be hung on masonry, they should rest on the base of the stove. Simple plastering should be abandoned, it does not give decent results even in dry rooms. Good results sometimes bring the use of decorative stone.

If the stove is not made of brick, but is delivered to order, you should choose the solution that matches the chosen style.

photos

Ventilation

Even the most durable and reliable materials will not last long if moisture stagnates inside. And the constant accumulation of stale air will not give anyone pleasure. All these problems are solved with the use of carefully thought-out ventilation. In most cases, the choice is made between supply and exhaust and natural systems. Self-circulation is provided by placing the air inlet at a height of 0.5 m from the floor, and the air outlet at about the same distance below the ceiling.

It is possible to equip an outlet at the bottom only when using forced ventilation or a large ventilation pipe. The cold air inlet can be organized in the space behind the stove, and the outlet in the floor itself, if the basement is connected by ventilation to street air or other rooms. For baths built into the house, forced ventilation must always be used.

What to insulate?

It is unreasonable to blame high-quality and intensive air exchange for the lack of heat in the bath. Almost always, the real cause of the problem is weak and poor-quality insulation. In most cases, mineral wool slabs are used. Due to the large amount of air inside, they perfectly retain heat, and the high melting point allows you not to be afraid of a fire. Often the frame wall is insulated with reed slabs, which are environmentally friendly and perform their task well.

The cheapness of foamed synthetic materials and their lightness, resistance to moisture make such protective coatings one of the best. But it is important to understand that not all materials in this series are equally perfect. In addition, any such insulation is allowed to be used only where strong heating is excluded.

Thermal protection must be covered from contact with water and water vapor. Wet heaters quickly deteriorate and lose their positive qualities.

The classic approach to insulating furnaces and their surroundings involves the use of various asbestos materials to protect them. It can be used in the form of plates or canvases. But given the danger of asbestos fibers for humans, it is advisable to use other finishing methods:

basalt fiber;
isolon;
needle-punched mats.

The heat in the bath can go not only through the walls; most of its leakage occurs through floors and ceilings. Expanded clay is sometimes used to create thermal protection inside them. In wall insulation, it is used less and less, because it is too heavy (500 kg per 1 m3) compared to publicly available counterparts. In addition, expanded clay is significantly inferior in terms of heat retention to both foam plastic and mineral wool, so the thickness of the insulating layer grows. And even though it slowly but steadily absorbs water, it turns out to be very difficult to dry the material.

The insulation of frame buildings with sawdust has a rather long history. They are absolutely safe in environmental and sanitary terms, but putting such thermal protection will not work quickly. Wood chips are used not only for insulation, but also as bedding for animals, fertilizer and in many other cases. Therefore, suppliers no longer give it away for free, but prefer to receive money for such a sought-after product. In a large city, sawdust is also sold in supermarkets, but there the price level is even higher than at sawmills.

Only hardwood shavings are suitable for work. The maximum allowable humidity is 20%, and it is better if it is even lower. Clean sawdust at construction sites has not been used for a long time, because they settle and form voids, a fungus may appear inside.

Be sure to treat the raw materials with boric acid or copper sulfate. The standard mixture also includes clay or cement (when finishing the ceiling), lime or gypsum.

The layer of sawdust under the floor should be at least 200 mm, and in the northern regions of the Russian Federation this figure can be increased by another 50%. Bulk laying involves mixing wood processing waste with binders, then the composition is poured into wood molds over which the floor is laid. The base is protected from moisture with kraft paper, polyethylene and similar materials. The composition is placed uniformly over the entire area, it has to be compacted only in rare cases. The final readiness of the insulation is achieved after two days.

Examples of finished buildings

Beautiful frame baths can be made in a variety of designs. This is what the design looks like with a not too steep roof pushed forward above the facade. In front of the door there is a kind of platform, on which you need to climb a small staircase. The design concept is clearly built in the spirit of maximum naturalness of the building. Many corner baths built using frame technology are finished with siding.

With proper execution, it is extremely difficult to distinguish them from simple log buildings. The modern approach to baths often involves the use of minimalist style. A striking example is shown in the photograph - there is only a canopy, a small ladder and clapboard-trimmed walls and a rectangular window. You can build such a structure with your own hands, moreover, in the shortest possible time. Using any of the presented varieties of washing is easy and convenient.

One of the first and most important stages in the construction of any building is the arrangement of a supporting structure that can withstand the loads created by the structure and ensure its safety and integrity for many years of service. The compact 3x4 m bath is no exception. Despite its objectively modest dimensions, this building also needs a high-quality and properly mounted support structure.

In the course of studying the information below, you will learn how to choose a suitable foundation for a 3x4 m bath, on the basis of what indicators the choice of a particular design is determined, how to calculate it correctly and build it directly. The information received will help you choose the best suitable type and optimal dimensions of the support, as well as refuse the services of third-party contractors, significantly saving the budget allocated for the construction of the bath.

There are 2 key requirements for the foundation of any building. First, the supporting structure must be as reliable and durable as possible. Secondly, the design of the foundation must be such that seasonal ground movements do not have a significant impact on it.

When choosing the design of the foundation and its overall dimensions, in addition to all other factors, it is necessary to take into account the type of soil at the construction site and the depth of soil freezing, according to which such a significant indicator as the depth of the supporting structure is determined. In the course of studying third-party manuals, you probably came across the recommendation of not quite competent authors to lay the foundation to a depth of 60-80 cm, etc. In some cases, of course, such advice is relevant, but not always. The bottom line is that in different regions of the country the soil freezes to different depths and this must be taken into account. Information regarding these points is given in the following table.

In addition to the depth of soil freezing, it is necessary to take into account its type. The images show what types of soils exist and what they look like.

Properties, composition and types of soils
Classification of soil varieties

The dependence of the laying depth on the level of groundwater penetration and soil freezing is shown in the following table.

Based on the foregoing, it is possible to provide a table with recommendations for choosing the type of foundation for a 3x4 m bath in accordance with the properties of the soil at the construction site.

Foundation	Illustration	Priming
Tape (prefabricated, monolithic, precast-monolithic)		Non-rocky, dry, sandy
		Non-settlement clayey
Slab solid		Mobile, heaving, subsidence
pile		Almost all types of soil

Tape support structures are the most common and.

Slabs are somewhat less common, because. can not be used in combination with all types of soil - too mobile soil will simply destroy the slab.

Pile foundations are the most versatile, however, the purchase and installation of screw piles directly leads to an increase in the final cost of the work performed, which is far from acceptable for every developer.

A more budgetary version of the supporting structure, in many respects similar to a pile foundation, is a columnar foundation.

In view of the foregoing, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the instructions for the calculation and construction of the most commonly used types of support bases: strip foundation and columnar structure.

Foundation Calculation: Basic Principles and Important Notes

The calculation procedure for foundations of strip and column type will differ. Task: to determine whether the base with the selected parameters can withstand the load created by the building from the materials selected by the developer, as well as atmospheric precipitation.

Belt design calculation

In the example under consideration, a monolithic system of concrete and crushed granite is calculated. The following image clearly demonstrates the plan and dimensional characteristics of the erected base. Based on the recommendations below, you can independently adjust the support plan and the procedure for calculating the loads.

Our strip foundation has dimensions of 4x3 m. The structure is inclined, expanding towards the bottom. Due to this feature, higher resistance to the forces of heaving of the soil on the site will be provided.

The heaviest loads in the considered structure will be subjected to 4-meter sections, because. overlap and logs rest just on the side walls. Let's calculate what kind of load the overlap and lags of the bath will create on 1 m of the foundation sole. To find the total load value, it is necessary to determine what load the snow, roof structure, ceiling, and walls will create on the concrete structure. Additionally, the loads created directly by the material of manufacture of the supporting structure are taken into account.

Snow loads are determined by multiplying the standard load created by snow in a particular area by the load area of the roof structure for 1 m of the support system. The value of the standard snow load is determined according to the relevant documentation - here it is SNiP under the number 2.01.07-85. You can also navigate on a special map.

Additionally, standardized values of the coefficients used in determining snow loads will be given in the corresponding table.

To determine the load load of the roof structure per meter of base, it is necessary to divide the total roof area by the length of the support. For the calculation, in this case, only the values of the length of the side tapes are used (4 + 4 = 8 m). The length of the end parts (3 + 3 = 6 m) does not appear in this calculation, because roof beams, as noted, will rest specifically on the long bath walls.

Snow loads are calculated in the following order:

find the total area of the roof structure. To do this, we multiply the values \u200b\u200bof the doubled length of the roof slopes and the length of the roof cornice. We calculate the length of the slope as follows: 3/2=1.5/cos 45=2.86 m. 2);
we calculate the cargo area of the roof structure for a meter of support: 23/8 \u003d 2.88 m 2;

as an example, we calculate the reference system for the region included in zone II in terms of snow loads. The specific snow load indicator here will be 70 kgf / m 2 (we will show the values \u200b\u200bfor other zones in the table). We calculate as follows: 2.88 * 70 \u003d 202 kgf.

We determine the load created by the roof structure. We need to find the value of the load per square meter of the projection of the roofing system in the horizontal. We have a 1.5 m tiled gable roof. It is mounted at an angle of 45 degrees.

We select the appropriate value in the following table.

And we consider: 1.5 * 80 \u003d 120 kgf.

To determine the load from the floors, first look at the table.

In this example, the load area also falls on the sides of the supporting structure (floors rest on the side bath walls). We find the cargo area of bath floors for each meter of the foundation system as follows: 4 * 3 \u003d 12/4 \u003d 3 m 2. The density of the wooden floor is 300 kg / m 3. We find the load as follows: 3 * 300 \u003d 900 kgf. If the ceiling in your bath is made of reinforced concrete, in the calculations we use a value equal to 500 kg / m 3, instead of the mentioned 300 kg / m 3, relevant for wooden structures.

We will find out what load the external walls will create on the bath base. We first study the following table.

We take the load value from the above table, after which we multiply it by the height of our bath walls, and then by the thickness of the wall. We take the height of the wall equal to 3 m, we take the thickness at the level of 0.4 m. Our walls are built of logs / beams. We consider: 3 * 0.4 * 600 \u003d 720 kgf.

To calculate the load from the foundation, we multiply the indicators of the volume of a meter of the tape and the density of the material for its manufacture. We take the density from the table.

We make the foundation of concrete and use crushed granite. The volume of a meter of tape specifically in our example is 0.45 m 3. We find the load: 0.45 * 2300 \u003d 1035 kgf.

Prices for crushed granite

crushed granite

It remains only to find the complex load per 1 m of the sole of the tape structure in the section A-A (it was shown in the figure above).

We summarize the calculated values: 202+120+900+720+ 1035=2977 kgf. The supporting structure with such a section has an area of 50*100=5000 cm 2 . Determine the pressure on the ground: 2977/5000=0.6 kgf/cm2. We build on lamellar clay soil. For such soil, the calculated comparison of the bearing capacity is equal to 1.5 kgf / cm 2. Consequently, the loads are more than acceptable, and a foundation with such parameters will serve perfectly for many years. You can take the calculated bearing capacity comparison for your soil from the following table.

Calculation of the column foundation

Let's calculate the columnar foundation. For its manufacture we use monolithic reinforced concrete. You can see an example design diagram in the following image.

Note! The picture shows a foundation plan for a building with dimensions of 6x12 m. For a 3x4 m bath, the parameters will remain the same, only the number of support pillars will change (according to the standard, it is recommended to install them every 2 m, i.e. each wall we will rely on 3 pillars - according to 2 in the corners and 1 in the middle of the length).

At the top, the cross section of the supports is 400x400 mm, in the sole - 800x800 mm. Specifically, in your case, the dimensions may differ, be guided by the situation.

Let us find the total load created by the sole of the support on the soil. To do this, we need to subtract the mass of the support system from the load found in the previous calculation: 2977-1035 = 1942 kgf.

We multiply the load indicators created in the gap between the supports: 1942 * 2 = 3884 and add the weight of one support to the found value. Each of the supports we use has a volume of about 0.25 m 3 . The density of the reinforced concrete used was indicated in the previously given table. We consider the mass of the column as follows: 0.25 * 2500 \u003d 625 kgf. The load of one column on the soil will be equal to: 3884 + 625 = 4509 kgf. Each pillar has a bearing surface equal to 6400 cm 2 (we find by multiplying 80 by 80). In our example, the bearing capacity of the soil is 1.5 kgf / cm 2. To determine the maximum possible loads, we do the following: 6400 * 1.5 = 9600 kgf. The obtained value significantly exceeds the load found by us (4509 kgf).

A columnar foundation with such characteristics will calmly endure the loads created by a 3x4 m bath, and will not even “move”. If desired, the dimensions of the supporting structures can be proportionally reduced - the main thing is that the design loads in the total do not exceed the limit.

At the same time, the arrangement of a columnar foundation, ceteris paribus, will require approximately 3-4 times less concrete than a strip support. Earthworks will also be significantly reduced. In the next section, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the results of calculating the required volume of material for arranging a tape support structure. After that, you can proportionally determine the consumption of concrete for pouring the pillars, taking into account the above information regarding the savings in materials.

Calculation of materials for pouring the foundation

The configuration of the strip base directly depends on the chosen internal layout of the bath, and the consumption of materials depends on it. In the case of a 3x4 m bath, there are few options for the internal layout of the bath - we will show them, and you will choose the one that is relevant for your case. We will pour the foundation with concrete of the 200th grade - for a compact bath, the indicated dimensions will be enough.

In our area, the soil freezes by 80 cm. We lay the tape 20-30 cm deeper than the specified value. Take 110 cm. We equate the width of the tape (A) to 3 m, the length (B) to 4 m, the height (C) to 110 cm, the thickness (D) to 40 cm. Depending on the layout, in the calculations will appear new values. We will describe them further in the relevant sections.

First layout option

Support for a bath, consisting of one room. The foundation looks like this.

The calculation for the tape is as follows (already taking into account 10 cm margins on each side).

Second layout option

A more common internal bath configuration. It consists of a steam room, a washing room and a dressing room / rest room.

In this example, an additional element appears, marked as E. The total length of its constituent elements is 4 m.

The base drawing looks like this.

It is pointless to consider other layout options for a 3x4 m bath - the most rational ways of distributing the available space were presented above.

We make a strip foundation for a bath 3x4 m

The structure we are building looks like this.

We get to work, following the instructions from the table.

Table. Arrangement of strip foundation

Stage of work	Description
	Firstly, we remove garbage from the site and, in general, everything that will interfere with us in the process of doing the work. Secondly, we remove the upper fertile soil ball (usually its height is 150-200 mm). If this is not done, plants that have rotted in the future will ruin the foundation. It is better to try to remove the soil by level and carefully level it - this will simplify the process of subsequent marking of the base (you will not have to waste time determining the highest and lowest angles, which will save time). In the future, the area of the site, not occupied by the concrete strip, will need to be filled with compacted soil, cleared of various kinds of organic matter.
	We have leveled the site and can start marking from any angle - there will be no differences in height. At the location of any outer corner, we drive a reinforcing rod or a wooden block into the ground. We measure the distance to the next corner and drive in a new bar / rod there. We stretch the rope between the driven landmarks. Repeat for each corner of the ribbon. By marking the corners of the tape, we will get pairs of bars located next to each other (as shown in the photo). For convenience, we connect them from above with a horizontal bar made of timber. We measure the length of the diagonals. If they match, everything is fine, if they diverge, we made a mistake. We repeat the markup process more carefully.
	We dig trenches in accordance with the markup. Recommendations for choosing the optimal depth of trenches were given earlier. We do not remove the soil far - we then use it to fill the recesses formed at the first stage of work (mentioned in the corresponding paragraph). The bottom and walls of the trench are leveled and compacted. If the soil crumbles, we install a temporary formwork from the boards.
	We use clean fine-grained sand. The thickness of the backfill layer is from 200 mm. The higher the heaving of the soil, the more sand needs to be poured (up to 600 mm and even more). Sand is more convenient to fall asleep in small (10-15 cm) layers. The photo shows a device for manual sand compaction.
	In the photo - another version of the device for manual tamping of the backfill. To make the sand better compacted, spill it with water. It is better to do this before laying the material in the pit, so as not to wash away.
	Using the level, check the evenness of the pillow. We eliminate differences by removing excess sand or adding it where the backfill has insufficient height. Note! In areas with a high level of groundwater, instead of a completely sandy cushion, it is advisable to equip a backfill of sand and gravel in a ratio of 1: 1.5. Crushed stone is usually poured from below the sand.
	The previously given calculations indicated what materials and in what quantity would be needed to equip the formwork. The diagram shows in detail what elements this structure consists of. You just have to prepare the required number of blanks, fasten them with screws (to make it easier to disassemble in the future) and install them in trenches.
	In the photo you see how the installed formwork for the strip foundation looks like in reality. A layer of waterproofing material (for example, polyethylene film) can be laid in the formwork. The presence of such will exclude the loss of moisture from the concrete solution.
	The calculations indicated how much and what kind of reinforcement should be used for a strip foundation of a particular design. Follow the advice given. Reinforcing mesh can be made directly in the formwork (first, vertical rods are installed in 2 rows, then horizontal crossbars, usually having a smaller diameter, are attached perpendicular to them) or “on the ground” (then the finished mesh is placed in the formwork). The second option is more convenient to implement, otherwise there are no differences between them. To connect the rods at the intersections, we use either a knitting wire or special clamps for reinforcement (a more convenient option). We do not recommend fixing by welding - such a design will last less. Important! The reinforcing mesh cannot be placed directly on the base - it will lead. It is necessary to provide a minimum of 5 cm gap between the pillow and the rods. To do this, we use either stable stones (cheaper) or special lock-stands (more convenient, easier and faster). A similar gap must be provided between the reinforcing mesh and the "top" of the fill. Both tapes for external walls and supporting elements for internal partitions are reinforced.
	If you wish, you can buy a ready-made solution - save time. Useful advice! Even for arranging a strip foundation for a compact 3x4 m bath, you will need a lot of concrete (calculations were given earlier). It will be quite difficult to quickly prepare it by hand - it’s better to think about buying or at least renting a concrete mixer in advance. We prepare concrete according to a standard recipe: we take a share of Portland cement of the M400 brand, on it - 3 shares of pure fine-grained sand, to them - 5 shares of crushed stone. The amount of water is determined by the weight of the cement - the liquid should be about half of this indicator. At the output we get a homogeneous mass of medium density.
	We fill the solution with a uniform horizontal layer, leveling it with a shovel and piercing it with a reinforcing rod to eliminate excess air (if possible, it is recommended to purchase / rent a special device for this - a deep vibrator). Make sure the fill is level. After pouring, we tap with a wooden hammer or bar on the walls of the formwork - this will additionally guarantee the correct distribution of the mixture.
	According to the standard, concrete hardens and gains the required strength within 28 days. Useful advice! In order for all the cement to react, we spill the pouring surface with a relatively small amount of water every day (especially true for the warm season - if there is a lack of liquid, the filling will crack). After spilling water, we cover the foundation with polyethylene (it will prevent the sun's heat from evaporating water too quickly and will additionally protect the concrete from precipitation). If it is cold outside, we lay a layer of insulation on top of the polyethylene (it is most convenient to use foam plastic, it is not afraid of moisture, weighs little and is easy to fit / remove). We remove the formwork no earlier than the concrete hardens (it takes 1-1.5 weeks). In general, professionals recommend leaving the formwork until the concrete has fully gained strength.

Video - Do-it-yourself strip foundation

We make a columnar foundation for a bath 3x4 m

Schematically equipped design can be represented as follows.

We propose to make a columnar foundation using asbestos-cement pipes as formwork. We will fill it with the same solution as the tape structure. For reinforcement we use similar rods. Preparatory activities - from garbage collection to removal of a fertile soil ball - are carried out in the same order. We also markup according to the already familiar scheme, with the only difference being that here we mark on the site the places for the future installation of the pillars: in the corners of each wall and partition, as well as along the length of those in increments of up to 2 m.

Prices for asbestos-cement pipes

asbestos-cement pipes

We proceed to the arrangement of a columnar base for a 3x4 m bath, following the provisions of the table below.

Table. We make a column foundation

Stage of work	Description
	Armed with a hand drill with a working “nozzle” of the appropriate diameter (most often the pillars are made with a diameter of either 250 mm or 400 mm, depending on the expected loads on the base), we prepare recesses for future supports. It is recommended to make the pits a couple of centimeters wider than the future pillars (the gaps will later be filled with compacted earth or sand). Above the ground, the poles are usually brought out by 200-250 mm. We select the depth so that the pillars are lowered below the freezing point of the soil by 200-300 mm. Recommendations for determining the depth of freezing were given earlier.
	We cover the bottom of each hole with a layer of sand. Recommendations regarding the choice of layer thickness, its alternative composition and compaction remain similar to the provisions for the arrangement of strip foundations. For tamping, a log of the appropriate diameter with handles fixed on top for greater ease of use is perfect.
	We assemble the reinforcing frame, focusing on the dimensions of the equipped column. Recommendations for choosing the characteristics of rods, their fastening and the size of the gaps between the bottom and top are the same as for the construction of a tape support structure. Additionally, it is recommended to leave 3-5 cm gaps between the mesh and the walls of the formwork (pipes). An approximate view of the reinforcing structure is shown in the photo. Select the shape of the frame in accordance with the shape of the pipes. We insert the pipes into the recesses and align them vertically, place the reinforcing mesh in the pipes and proceed to the next stage of work.
	The order is as follows: - pour concrete into the formwork pipe to a height of approximately 5 cm; - raise the pipe - concrete fills the space under it, due to which an additional support platform is formed; - we lower the pipe; - pour concrete to full height. We align the pipes vertically according to the level / plumb.
	The gaps between the posts and the walls of the pits are filled with compacted soil / sand. We provide additional stability of the pipes in any suitable way, for example, by installing temporary supports or by lining the pipes closely with massive stones. Let the concrete dry.
	We lay waterproofing on top of the hardened concrete: - spread a layer of molten bitumen; - lay the roofing material, press and level; - we repeat again. The formwork can not be dismantled - it will not interfere. It is recommended to continue construction after the concrete has gained the required strength, i.e. a month later.