Small sauna with your own hands. Budget bath with your own hands Very cheap bath

Since ancient times, the bathhouse has been glorified and is an integral part of Russian folklore. It is often referred to as a place to cleanse the body and soul. It is especially pleasant to have your own steam room in a summer cottage or in a private house, which is quite simple to build with your own hands without the involvement of outside help.

Peculiarities

The bathhouse is a place with a special comfort and aura, which requires careful observance of the conditions, rules and stages of construction. On the modern market there is a wide variety of materials, thanks to which the construction of a steam room can be carried out very quickly and rather cheaply.

To build it yourself, you need to think through a few points.

• The place of the future bath. Its location should not be chosen at random. There are a number of prescriptions and tips that will help you determine the territory for future construction.
• From what the foundation will be laid, what form it will be.
• The dimensions of the building. Masters advise to calculate the area in such a way that for each person there is about 3-4 square meters. m. For this reason, it is necessary to think in advance what the approximate number of people will visit the bath.

• Material, quantity, purchase.
• Choose the type of heating (electric boiler or traditionally - with wood). A traditional Russian bath requires a real stove. Modern steam rooms are increasingly equipped with an electric heater, which quickly warms up the room to a given temperature, and also does not require constant fire maintenance.
• Decorations and accessories. It is always pleasant to be in a nice and clean room. This also applies to the bath. Exterior decoration plays an important role. Qualitative and skillful design will always contribute to complete physical relaxation and peace of mind. Do not forget about bath accessories (buckets, brooms, hats and others). Of course, without them, and so you can steam and wash well, but there are special occasions in life when "bath romance" is simply necessary.

You can get to work only when the owner has decided on all the stages. Otherwise, this process can be delayed for a long time without exact dates for the end.

Experienced masters in the construction of baths advise you to carefully think over all the details and not to rush during construction. Especially when you do it yourself. It takes a lot of effort to make this place a truly real bathhouse, and not just a room where you can wash yourself.

Where to locate?

The location of the bath is one of the most important issues. Convenience and comfort when using it depends on this. It is also important where it is planned. Many people think that it can be any plot in the country, a basement of a private house, a roof or a basement in a high-rise building.

There is a large number of rules, which are primarily aimed at the safety of a person and his home (if it is next to the future bath).

• It is advisable to make the bath a separate building, since with poorly done waterproofing, neighboring rooms can be dampened. If the area of ​​the site allows, then it is best to place it 8-10 m from the main house. If this is not possible, then you can make it in the form of an extension to the house. Very handy when she is in the backyard.
• Special attention should be paid to drainage and water supply. The bathhouse should be located at least 25-30 m from the well or borehole. This is due to the fact that the steam room is a direct place of water pollution, which should not flow along the ground, but into a specially designated drain.
• It is good when there is a reservoir at a distance of 30–40 m. It is not worth putting it closer, since the onset of floods is possible, the structure will flood.

• It is not recommended to locate this building next to a carriageway. This prescription is more about ethics than safety. It is not always pleasant when strangers can see you naked.
• The bathhouse should not border on nearby areas, so as not to cause discomfort to neighbors, when the owners decided to have a good rest and steam.
• It is desirable that the doors face south, and the windows are located on the west side. These tips are related to weather conditions and human psychology. It is said that the wind from the north is much colder, so there is a good chance of catching a bad cold. As for the windows, the rays of the setting sun will help you relax and get

The bath is a room with a high temperature inside, then, unfortunately, cases of its fire are not uncommon. In this regard, the choice of location for its location should depend on the material from which the foundation and load-bearing walls are made. According to fire safety rules, if the building is made of non-combustible building materials, then it can be located 5–6 m from the dwelling (house). If this is a solid wood or part of the steam room has a wooden base or finish, then the distance increases to 8–12 m.

Do not forget that there are neighboring houses and buildings in the neighboring territory. Their location must also be taken into account, since non-compliance with the norms can lead to unpleasant proceedings, and, as a result, the demolition of the established bath.

Projects

Not everyone can boast of a large house and a huge plot of land. But having a modest property or a large one, you always want to have your own bathhouse or at least a mini-steam room.

If there is sufficient building area, you can create a reference bath, which should have a steam room, a dressing room, a relaxation room (sometimes a pool is made there) and a shower or washing room. There you can wash off the remains of soap and shampoo, or prepare the body for the heat (people take a warming shower with warm water). The owners of a truly large territory can equip the bathhouse with a room for jacuzzi, massage, billiards and others.

But in a small area for construction, you can easily combine several rooms (dressing room and rest room, dressing room and shower room). It should be noted that the comfort and coziness in the bath does not disappear from this.

Depending on the quadrature, you can find the perfect solution. For example, if it turns out to build a bath with a size of 3 sq. m, then a small steam room (about 1.8 sq. m.) and a pre-bath room (1.2 sq. m.) can fit there. This space may be enough for one or two people to visit without much discomfort.

The building is 6.5 sq. m will fit the same number of rooms, but they will be more spacious. It is better to allocate 3.5 sq. m, and the rest is a place for a dressing room. Some owners put a small shower in the corner.

In the presence of 9 or 10 sq. m you can plan the territory in a more interesting way. For the "hottest place" it is better to give 5 square meters. m, which can comfortably accommodate 2-3 people. The rest can be easily divided into a place for changing clothes and a small shower stall.

Baths measuring 12-15 sq. m is much easier to equip, since you do not need to cut out every meter. Here you can already give more space for the steam room in order to go there with a small company (3-4 people), or combine it with a washing room (1 sq. M) and make a large relaxation room with a table to drink tea. It is also easy to divide the room into 3 separate rooms: a steam room, a shower room and a dressing room.

When there is room to turn around, it is much easier to divide the space. It all depends on the preferences of the owner of the bath. If he loves big companies, then of course it is better to focus on the size of the steam room, because you can relax in the house after all the procedures. But when solitude and bath romance are more appreciated, then it is worth considering a room for relaxation. There, a person will be able to sit in an armchair with hot tea, think about life, sincerely communicate with a friend, read a book.

Materials (edit)

It is best to do the selection and purchase of material for building a bath yourself, as it will be possible to check its quality before installation. The market is overflowing with options. Thanks to this, you can easily build a beautiful, high-quality and budget steam room with a dressing room. Most masters claim that the material from which the bath construct (its foundation) is made does not affect the bath procedures in any way. In this regard, more attention should be paid to the choice of the internal component, namely the material that will be inside the steam room.

In the minds of most people, the bath is only made of a log tree or stone. But it is not so. Materials are improved in their qualities, and are also combined depending on the region of residence.

For the southern regions, it is not advised to use a timber or tree for the frame, since there are many pests (bark beetle, grinder beetle, barbel and others). Fungus and mold appear from high temperature and humidity. Therefore, the service life is very short - 2–4 years. For the southern part of Russia, the use of stone or brick is recommended. Most often, blocks of wood concrete, polycarbonate (for a summer bath), aerated concrete, sandwich panels are used there.

For northern regions, wood is more preferable. Due to its natural characteristics, it does not need to be treated with chemistry from pests. For this reason, the bathhouse will be more environmentally friendly.

If it was decided to make a frame bath out of wood, then for the walls you will need a wooden beam directly (the quantity is purchased based on the project) or wooden sleepers (a fairly cheap building material), insulation and cladding material. It can be OSB plates. They are compressed sawdust with resin, wax and boric acid.

For the inner lining, they also take pre-prepared boards, and for the outer one - lining or euro lining. Sometimes (in order to save money) people use wooden pallets. Thanks to their shape, fairly strong walls can be folded from them. Of course, they will need to be insulated. This option is the most successful for a summer steam room. To build a frame and walls in a brick or stone bath, you will need silicate brick, shell rock or quarry. Increasingly, they began to use cinder block. As for the external and internal decoration, the materials may be different.

Sometimes, when possible, skilled craftsmen make a base from a metal container. Construction is proceeding very quickly. But here there are some nuances (it is necessary to cut holes for the door, make an additional partition for the steam room itself, and others). All walls are also carefully insulated and sheathed.

The interior decoration of the ceiling in the dressing room can be made of such types of wood as alder, linden or pine. If we talk about the ceiling in the steam room, then here experts recommend mounting the lining (it tolerates high temperatures better). It should be of a tree species that does not emit strong-smelling resins (spruce, pine, fir). The best options for this would be linden, alder, cedar. In no case should chipboard or fiberboard be used. When heated, they release substances that harm the human body.

Insulation for walls also requires special attention. The bath is insulated, as a rule, only inside, but they can also lay the outer layer of this material (in the frame of the structure itself). If the building is made of a felling of wood, then the insulation is placed on the lattice frame (lathing). To do this, use mineral wool or other organic insulation. In the case of a stone or brick bath, the same mineral wool is taken, but it is laid in a thicker layer (5–6 cm).

In the steam room itself, after a layer of insulation, a vapor barrier is necessarily laid. For these purposes, dense foil or a special self-adhesive three-layer film can be used. It consists of a polyvinyl chloride mesh with two layers of foil with fine holes for steam evacuation. For the floor in the steam room, all the same wood is suitable as was used for covering the walls and ceiling, and in the dressing room, tiles are usually laid. It is convenient to wash and disinfect it from mildew and mold.

Important areas

The bathhouse is not just a steam room, but also a place for rest and relaxation. In order to fully restore strength and spiritually cleanse, there should be such zones as a steam room, a change house (dressing room), a shower. Of course, when the territory is small, there is not enough space for all sorts of outbuildings, but you can always find a way out. For example, combine functional areas in one room.

A bathhouse without a dressing room is uncomfortable to use, especially if the house is 10-15 meters away. It is necessary so that a person can undress calmly and prepare for the procedure. Also, this room plays an important role in the thermal balance. The change house helps not to "lose" the heat from the steam room, and also blocks the path of cold air currents in winter. On top of that, all bath accessories are stored here: buckets, ladles, various gels and shampoos, bathrobes, hats to protect hair from overheating, slippers and much more. Without this room, the use of the bath will be uncomfortable and inconvenient. If large enough, you can put a small table there to drink herbal tea, dry and cool for going outside.

If we talk about a shower, then according to the recommendations of doctors, it must be there. Before entering a hot room, you need to prepare your body - take a warm shower. It will be easier for the body to endure sudden changes in temperature, and the pores will open much faster for active sweating and further cleansing. This area does not have to be large (in the form of a shower stall or an installed "standing bath"). One square meter, which can be covered with a curtain, is enough. In the case when it is possible to make a large and full-fledged bath, then it can be equipped with a separate room for a sauna or put a jacuzzi. It all depends on the preferences of the owner.

The most important thing when building a bath with your own hands is to make it as comfortable as possible for your use.

Installation technology

The process of building a bath itself is not difficult if you have a clear plan of action. To get a high-quality and beautiful building, it is necessary to follow a series of steps step by step.

• Prepare the area for future construction work. This includes clearing debris from the ground, digging out shrubs (if any), removing stone boulders, and leveling the surface (it is necessary to remove embankments or fill deep holes). They also make markings for pouring the future foundation.
• Foundation. It can be different in its configuration and type of installation. Craftsmen recommend columnar or pile.
• Construction of walls and installation of a roof. At this stage, walls are being built, insulation is laid, holes are made for doors and windows, a roof is being built (it is imperative to leave an opening for the chimney).

• Interior decoration of the premises. It is done based on the chosen style. Doors are installed, windows are inserted. The room is being prepared for the placement of the necessary elements for the steam room and the bath in general.
• Installation of a stove and deck benches in the steam room.
• Arrangement of furniture and accessories.

Strictly adhering to the work plan, it will turn out to build a good bath. Experienced builders advise to invest in advance the deadlines for each stage so that the construction does not drag on for months or years.

Foundation

In the case when a small bath is planned, it is more expedient and cheaper to make an ordinary strip foundation. The most important thing is to make good thermal insulation, otherwise the floor will take heat from the room. As a result of this, condensation may form, and then a number of unpleasant consequences.

The creation of the foundation includes several stages.

• Before building, it is necessary to clean and mark the area. As a rule, 10-15 cm of soil is removed. The building boundaries are marked with wooden stakes (15–20 cm). A fishing line or twine is pulled between the pegs. The evenness of the corners is checked (they must be exactly 90º).
• Next, the soil is excavated along a marked trajectory to a depth of 60–70 cm (the earth can be thrown to the center, it will still come in handy). A layer of sand 10-15 cm thick is poured onto the bottom of the resulting trench and rammed. Sometimes, for greater density, it is slightly moistened with water. Following the sand, a layer of granite stone is poured, or a brick is laid in one layer. This will be a support frame for the lathing, which is made from a thick metal bar and is also laid in a solid structure.

• Formwork is hammered from wooden planks. It will serve as a form for grouting. In this regard, the boards should be 40-50 cm higher than the ground level.
• The grout is prepared in certain proportions: 1 part of cement, 3 parts of sand and 3 parts of fine gravel. In consistency, it should resemble sour cream. It must be poured immediately. It is advisable to initially calculate the required amount, otherwise you will get a foundation with poorly connected layers.
• For further work, you will need a construction vibrator that can be rented. With its help, it is necessary to "shake" the poured cement mortar so that all the air is released and the voids are gone.
• The next step is to align the top layer. After 5–6 days, you can remove the wooden sides. In this form, the foundation is left until completely dry and bonded. Craftsmen recommend to withstand 20-25 days before continuing construction. During this time, the foundation must be watered with water, otherwise cracks may form due to uneven drying.
• Do not forget about special openings for communications (sewer pipes, electrical wiring). At the stage of pouring, the pipes should already lie at the planned place.

If you plan to build a large bathhouse, and the site has a complex bumpy and uneven shape, then it is better to install the foundation on piles. They are of several types: some curl, while others "screw" into the ground. For a bath, both options are suitable.

Before installing it on the site, similar preparatory work is carried out as with the strip foundation. Particular attention should be paid to the issue of freezing the ground in winter. Usually, these data are verified according to SNiP. Based on the information received, a metal pipe with a wall thickness of 3-5 mm is purchased.

Its length should be the sum of the following values:

• the length of the freezing layer of the earth;
• 40-50 cm for pile sinking;
• 50 cm above ground level.

To make it easier to insert the pipe, it is sharpened. Each element is installed in the ground at a distance of 1 m from each other along the perimeter of the building area. It is very important that the piles are level. To do this, each pipe is leveled using a level (a ruler with liquid and a scale).

A square “hat” (625 sq. Cm) should be welded onto each pile. Holes are made at its ends for the installation of a reinforced concrete frame. All metal elements must be coated with a solution that prevents corrosion. After that, a layer of sand, gravel is laid and rammed, and everything is filled with cement mortar using the strip foundation technology. After installing the foundation, you can start installing the walls.

Walls

According to their species diversity, walls are:

• frame;
• brick;
• from a foam block;
• from a felling of a tree.

To install timber frame walls, it is necessary to install the base on the grillage (there must be a waterproofing film under it). After that, the racks are mounted at the corners of the future bath. They are fastened with metal corners, and for greater strength, jibs (beams standing at an angle of 45º) are screwed to them.

A wooden beam is installed every half a meter along the entire perimeter with obligatory oblique struts. Do not forget about door and window openings that do not need to be blocked. Vertical beams are fastened together by horizontal beams in one line. After the frame of the walls is ready, they can be sheathed. But before that, all the wood is covered with impregnation from decay and mold (black mold is especially terrible).

Next, insulation, hydro-barrier film and facing material are laid. If brick was chosen for the construction of the walls, then it is better to take red. It has the most suitable properties - it does not "draw" heat, as does white brick.

Typically, the wall is made with two layers of brick. The start of work is carried out from the corners, since the level will be set from them. The layer of bonding cement should not exceed 2 cm. For the convenience of the masonry, the craftsmen are advised to pull the fishing line as a level. In place of the future window and door, a reinforced concrete lintel is laid. Further, the walls are built up to the required height.

The construction of walls from a foam block is carried out in the same way as for a brick. The only difference is that every 4 rows you need to lay a metal mesh. It will give greater rigidity and strength to the wall.

The most interesting, from the point of view of work, will be the installation of walls from a felling of wood. It is very important that all trunks have the same diameter (a slight error of 1–3 cm is allowed). Before installation, each of them is examined for defects (there are knots, bark), and is also treated with an antiseptic. Further, on each element, "holes" of 1 radius are made. In the very first trunks, which are placed at the base, one side is made straight so that they do not "roll". The further beam fits like a puzzle. In the corners, they make a binding with a rope, starting from the floor itself, and all the joints between the bars are laid with insulation in the form of a tape.

Roof

Following the guide to building a bathhouse, the next step after installing the walls will be the installation of the roof. This process does not take much time and effort.

There are 3 large groups of roofs:

• flat;
• single-slope;
• gable.

The rest of the species are a kind of type groups. Professionals advise installing a pitched roof for small baths. If the building is of impressive size, then the functional side of the roof is already being selected (for example, the 2nd floor for the recreation area, made of the attic).

If the walls are built of brick, the first layer (before laying the beams) will be a layer of roofing material as waterproofing. Next, a wooden frame is mounted along the perimeter of the walls using anchors. It will serve as a support for all further structures that make up the "backbone" of the roof. A wooden crate of the selected shape is made on top. Insulation is "inserted" into it and a vapor barrier sheet is necessarily placed. After these works are completed, you can proceed to the external and internal cladding. Inside, it is better to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard or prepared boards.

Floor

The floors in the bath must be given due attention, since a person has direct and frequent contact with them.

Like walls, floors come in 3 types:

• wooden;
• brick;
• concrete.

Concrete

Brick is undesirable as a floor due to its physical properties (low heat transfer). It gets very hot and can cause severe burns to your feet. The most commonly used, handy and durable material is concrete. But it should be understood that such a floor is very cold and requires an additional layer of insulation on top.

Installing this option is very simple.

• First, sand is poured onto the finished foundation (at least 15 cm). Next, crushed stone or gravel is laid in a uniform layer of 10 cm.Do not forget about the drain, under which it is necessary to leave space and remove the pipe, and it must go into the gutter or septic tank.
• After laying the "cushion", a primary layer of concrete 5–7 cm is poured. When it dries, you should start laying insulation (mineral wool, perlite, foam) and waterproofing. A reinforced mesh is placed on top of them.
• When the mesh is secured, the floor can be poured. Masters advise taking a ready-made mixture, since it is difficult to make it yourself. It is recommended to start work from the corners towards the door. Once the floor is dry, you need to start laying the flooring. It can be tiles, laminate and other materials.

Wood

The most practical and comfortable sauna floors are wooden. They are of two types.

• Letting water pass through themselves into the drain hole (lattice or flowing). This is the simplest and cheapest flooring option. No insulation material is needed to install them. They are made according to the same scheme as a regular floor, only they leave a gap between the planks to be laid and the floor with a 5-10 cm drain hole. For this, an additional frame is installed, on which a wooden covering is mounted. The most important thing is to qualitatively process the wood from decay and dampness. As a rule, such a floor is made in the steam room itself.

• Fixed floors (non-leaking). Usually they are done in a dressing room or a rest room, but they can also be done in a steam room. To begin with, a drainage is made so that there is a full drainage of water. Next, an identical floor preparation is done, as in the concrete version. Then a waterproofing insulation is laid, and a fine wooden floor is placed on top of it. It is very important to coat all cracks and joints with sealant.

Wiring

It should be noted right away that only the person who has knowledge and skills in the field of electrical engineering can independently make the wiring. It will be very difficult for a beginner in this matter, even if he follows the step-by-step instructions.

Installation of electrical wiring must be carried out in a strict and clear sequence.

• Grounding of all metal structures, electrical housings or gaskets to protect yourself and people from electric shock.
• Connecting the power cable. In rooms where there is no contact with water, it is laid in special plastic boxes. Where there is water or steam, it is laid in PVC pipes.
• Cable routing to rooms with no access to water. From the junction box, a wire is laid along the same plastic grooves. Further, a through hole is made in the wall, where there will be a lamp in another room, and is attached to it. It also connects to a switch. A metal sleeve must be inserted into the passage for the wire in the wall and filled with a non-burning compound.

• Electricity supply to the steam room. It is worth noting that it is strictly forbidden to find a junction box and switches inside it. It is recommended to use low voltage lighting devices in this room. It is also necessary to lower the voltage of the flow of electricity there; for this, step-down transformers are used. The cable that will enter the steam room through the hole in the wall must be heat-resistant. The hole in the wall is processed in the same way as above. It is very important to mark all the conductors in the junction box, otherwise, if the power supply fails, it will be difficult to find the cause.

• Installation of sockets. Their installation is carried out in a similar way. The most important thing is that any outlet should be at least 60 cm from the sink and shower. Also, each of them should have a protective plastic cover that protects them from moisture.

When connecting electrical wiring to the bath, you should select a cable according to the equipment to be installed, its power and electricity consumption must be taken into account. All work must be carried out in rubber shoes, in a dry room and in rubber gloves.

Finishing work

Today it is very profitable to do the finishing work on your own. If you order this service from a company, you can get a rather large amount. Finishing work is a complex of construction activities aimed at external and internal improvement of the building. The material is selected in advance. Its choice should be approached very seriously and responsibly, since under the influence of heat and water, it can emit odors or change its shape.

Masters advise to do the work in parallel, and not in parts (first the facade, then the steam room, and so on). But there must be a certain sequence. First, the ceiling is finished, then the walls, and then the floor. At the time of finishing repairs, windows and a door (at least a rough one) should already be inserted.

Internal (as well as external) finishing is carried out in a number of stages that must be followed.

• All purchased material must be acclimatized. For example, if a tree is chosen for work, then it needs to lie down for several days in the room.
• Installation of the frame on which the cladding will be applied.
• Insulation bookmark.
• Waterproofing.
• Installation of panels (wood, lining and others).

Similar work is carried out from the outside.

External design

The external decor of the bath is just as important as the internal one. It is always pleasant when the house and the nearby built steam room are in harmony with each other, creating a single style of the site.

How and from what to make the outer casing of the bath depends on the following factors:

• General style. The harmony and combination of buildings will always delight the owner;
• The cladding must fulfill certain functions: protection from weather conditions, insulation of internal heat, containment of cold air currents.

The walls of a classic Russian bath are usually made according to old traditions - solid logs. This is truly one of the coziest and most enjoyable settings. Such walls do not need additional finishing, but sometimes a rope rope is laid along the seams, which is soaked in resin.

Today there is a large selection of materials that can be used to decorate the facade of a bath beautifully and quickly. It can be lining, siding (metal, plastic), fiber cement panels and others.

The most common type of cladding is panel siding. It is recommended to choose vinyl or wood. They are most suitable for the theme of the bath. They must be mounted on a specially installed lathing made of timber with laid layers of insulation. Sometimes it is attached with a metal profile. Further, it is installed in a circle joint to joint.

The second most popular material for external design is lining. It is convenient in that it has slats of various widths (they can be selected for any structure), which can be made of plastic, MDF or wood. The last option is chosen most often. The most important thing is that all boards are well treated with a special solution that protects the material from dampness and decay. Lining made of plastic (vinyl) will also last a long time, but it fades rather quickly due to the action of direct sunlight. But its plus is that it is not afraid of moisture and sudden changes in temperature. The lining is installed in the same way as the siding panels.

If the bathhouse is built of brick, but you wanted it to look like a wooden one, then in this case you can make a cladding from a block house. This is a finishing lumber that bears a resemblance to eurolining. It is made using a special technology - 4 boards are cut in a circle from a round tree trunk. As a result, the boards are perfectly flat and flat on one side, and convex-semicircular on the other. With their help, it is easy to create an imitation of a house built from a felling of a tree.

Interior Design

Since childhood, the image of a simple Russian bath has been embedded in the head of every person. As a rule, the interior of this room is entirely made of natural wood (alder, linden), there are wooden chairs with wrought iron legs at the same table, home-made new brooms made of birch or oak hang on the walls, and most importantly, there is the smell of wood resin, steamed leaves, soap.

To preserve the atmosphere of a real traditional Russian bath, it is best to purchase wooden furniture(table, chairs, benches). It is very beautiful when it has carved elements. Homemade knitted or wicker mats are sometimes placed on the seats. They are made with bright ornaments to add coziness and joy to the room.

It is advisable not to lay a carpet on the floor in the dressing room. Fungus and mold will grow in it due to the high humidity. It is best to use ordinary tiles or wooden boards treated with a special solution. Shelves on the walls will not be superfluous. They are also made of wood. Mugs for beer, a kettle or beautiful figures of a brownie will perfectly fit there. It all depends on the owner's imagination.

The steam room should also be cozy. Usually, lighting with a birch bark lampshade is placed in the corners, forged hooks on the walls that hold buckets and buckets. Buckets can also be ethnic style. They have carved handles or a metal rim in the middle. A decorative panel made of wood is very often installed along the upper rim of the ceiling. Ethnic ornament, animals, bathing process and so on are cut out on it.

The dressing room or the rest room is also filled with accessories. They are often made on their own, looking for at flea markets or folk fairs. It is easy to find wooden spoons, bast shoes, carved figurines of brownies, pictures on birch bark and other accessories. With the help of them, it is easy to add coziness and warmth to a given room.

Smell is an integral part of the interior of the Russian bath. Thanks to him, a person relaxes as much as possible and rests entirely (body and soul). Each of the rooms is dominated by its own smell. In the steam room, it is the aroma of steamed oak or birch brooms. It is good to put an aroma lamp in the shed and change it to suit your mood every time.

Style

In the XXI century, there is a huge variety of baths. Their main difference lies in the temperature of exposure to the human body, as well as the quantity and quality of steam in the room itself (steam room).

• Russian bath. Steam heating temperature - 40º – 75º, humidity about 60%. Thanks to such conditions, the human body warms up qualitatively and deeply, and a high level of humidity helps to quickly open the pores and start sweating. The result is a high-quality skin cleansing.

• Hamam (Turkish bath). Here the temperature is slightly lower - 35º – 60º, and the humidity is about 85–100%. The conditions in this steam room are more gentle. Thanks to this, you can spend time here for quite a long time, do various kinds of cosmetic procedures (massage, peeling and other procedures). The body warms up gradually, and the skin is constantly moist. Thus, the deep layers of the skin are "opened" and steamed.

• Finnish bath. The difference between such a steam room is that it uses rather high temperatures (120º – 150º), and the humidity level is very low (10–15%). In this regard, a trip to such a bath has a number of contraindications and conditions for staying in it. It is not uncommon for a person's skin to be severely dried out, or burns were obtained. But at the same time, the body warms up and relaxes very well.

• Japanese water bath. This type of steam room is very specific. A person sits in a barrel of water, which heats up to 60º. The skin is well warmed up and steamed, but it does not breathe under water. Due to this, profuse sweating occurs, toxins and toxins are removed from the skin.

How to choose a boiler?

The heart of any bath or any steam room is a heating boiler or stove. Without it, in principle, the functioning of this room cannot be carried out. The most important thing is that the heating boiler can heat up to a sufficient temperature, and, accordingly, have a good heat output. Additionally, it is necessary for a person to be able to regulate the heating level with noticeable intervals in temperature. All these parameters depend on the material from which the boiler is made, as well as on the correct selection of the power and size of the steam room.

Bath boilers are made of metal. As a rule, this is normal or specially processed steel. In more expensive models, its thickness can be 1–1.5 cm. During long-term operation of such furnaces, the so-called "metal fatigue" can appear. This phenomenon manifests itself in a slight deformation of the shape. Because of this, the fuel loading door may start to jam, or the welds may "creep". For this reason, craftsmen recommend using cast iron boilers. They are much stronger and have a longer service life.

The main function of the boiler is to heat the room as quickly as possible to the required temperature. This ability in many ways elevates him above the usual brick stove. In turn, metal stoves can be conventional or long burning. It is better to choose the second option, since such a boiler cools down much more slowly and keeps heat for a long time, and will also save on fuel.

When choosing a stove for a steam room, it is necessary to take into account its design features and human convenience. Each boiler has a door where wood or coal is placed. In some models, it is inside the steam room. On the one hand, it is convenient, since there is no need to leave the room to increase the temperature. But at the same time, it is always humid in the steam room, and firewood or coal from this dampens. It turns out that first the fuel is dried in the furnace, and only then it gives the required temperature. Plus, from wood and coal, chips and debris will accumulate, which can injure steamed delicate feet.

There must be a heater on the boiler. Medium-sized stones are placed there (this can be pebbles brought from the sea). Since they are on the hot metal, they also get warm. During the bath procedure, water is poured into it, and steam is formed, which is so necessary in the steam room.

The heater can be on top of the boiler or on the side. The side option is better, since water only gets on the stones. This steam is considered softer and more correct. It is ideal when this design (reminiscent of a forged lattice bucket) does not touch the walls of the boiler. This is due to the fact that the stone holds the temperature for a long time, therefore it can deform the adjacent wall of the heater, thereby shortening the life of the boiler.

Most models have a special container where water is heated. It is scooped up with a ladle and poured onto stones to add heat to the room. It can be located on either side of the boiler, but it is best if it is suspended from a pipe (chimney). So the water will not boil, but it will always be warm. Plus, the risk of scalding a part of the body is reduced.

Particular attention should be paid to the weight and dimensions of the boiler. If the steam room is large, then it must correspond to the size of the room. If the floor is not prepared in advance, then it may simply collapse under its weight. Usually, the future place for the boiler is poured with concrete even during the construction of the foundation. When the stove is small, it can be installed directly on the floor, but it is better to lay a layer of brick, since the wood dries and deforms from the high temperature.

The above are the main reasons why some of the heat is removed from the boiler. If you clearly know these data, then the calculations will be more accurate and correct. Then all this information is inserted into the formula. By itself, it is very large, and without knowledge in the field of physics and mathematics, it will be difficult to calculate the correct answer. It is best to come with known data to a specialist. Usually in any store that specializes in boilers and heating systems, there is always such a person.

The most important thing when choosing a boiler is not to focus on the price, but on the quality and characteristics of the product. Expensive doesn't mean good. It is worth knowing that if almost any part in the boiler breaks down, you will have to change it entirely.

Even an experienced master in the field of construction and repair will find it difficult to build a bath absolutely correctly. As in any other business, there are nuances and subtleties of work here, and they can only be learned from a person who is professionally engaged in this business.

The first thing that the masters advise is that the construction of a bath is best carried out in a dry and warm period of the year. This is due to the fact that all solutions, putties and impregnations must dry to the end. Otherwise, there is a risk of installing poorly processed wood, which will last only half of the prescribed period.

Before starting construction, it is imperative to create a detailed project of the future bath. It must indicate the exact dimensions, the layout of the pipes for the drain and the water supply. It is better to make a separate drawing for electrical wiring. Based on the plan, it will be easier to calculate the amount of material required, and the novice builder will immediately understand what work he cannot do without the additional help of professionals. He will be able to budget for the costs of ancillary work from outside.

If you want to build a comfortable and spacious bathhouse, and there is not much space on the site, then it can be made as an extension to the house. Thus, it will be possible to save on "4th wall" and space.

In order for the bath to serve for a long time, the masters advise to air it as often as possible. Thanks to this, wood and metal coatings will dry out and not be exposed to the formation of mold and mildew.

Beautiful examples

• This example shows that even a small bath can be beautiful and comfortable. There is a small steam room, and you can plunge into cold water from the heat outside. In summer, a table and chairs are easily placed next to it, where it will be pleasant to sit, drink tea under the moon and stars.
• Shown here is a spacious steam room, where a friendly company can easily fit. Due to this size, there is a place for a person to lie down at full height and steam him with a bath broom, while other vacationers can sit quietly and relax.

Since ancient times, the bathhouse has been a place where you can relax and unwind. These ancient buildings bypass even outdoor recreation in popularity.

How to build a bathhouse yourself?

Building a bath with your own hands is a difficult task and its implementation will require a certain amount of knowledge, which you will soon learn about.

To build a bathhouse with your own hands, you will need to familiarize yourself with the action plan:

• Design a bathhouse;
• Understand the stages of construction;
• Get a building material;
• Connect communications;
• Arrange the bath from the inside.

After getting acquainted with the stages of construction, it is necessary to determine the place where the bath will be located, since a lot also depends on the location.

The best option would be if:

• the bath will be located on a hill, this will greatly simplify the installation of the water drain;
• there will be a river or a reservoir next to the bath;
• the window in the bathhouse will be located opposite the house, which will allow you to observe its firebox.

For a garden house, the distance will be no more than 3 meters, and for buildings such as a bathhouse, this distance should not exceed 1 meter.

It is best to order the design and drawings of the bath from local designers, it will cost about 5,000 rubles. You can also search for ready-made sketches and photos of the bath on the Internet that best suit your preferences.

Bath made of bricks, stones or blocks

Brick, stone or blocks can be used directly as materials for a brick bath.

To build a bath, it is necessary to dig a pit and fill it with 20 cm of sand, then it must be filled with water to seal.

The second step is to lay the crushed stone on top of 10 cm thick sand, which then needs to be covered with sand again.

The final step will be to install a drainage and drainage system for the building.

Bath from a bar

The first layer for the base of the bath will be 20 cm of sand, the second layer is crushed stone, and the concrete fill is laid in the third layer. The key stage will be the reinforcement of the building.

Metal rods need to be inserted into the layers for a more durable structure and, as additional stability, metal plates must be laid in the middle, which are tied with wire.

Note!

The next stage of work is the blind area, which is needed so that the base of the bath is not washed out with water.

It is best to make a blind area of ​​clay, it is much stronger than concrete, and also does not form cold seams in the process. A layer of rubble must be poured over the blind area.

Next, you need to install a drain in the bath. First, you need to dig a hole and bring its gutter to the edge of the foundation of the building, cover the walls of the hole with wooden planks with reinforced wire, and then fill everything with concrete.

Frame bath

The foundation for such a bath structure is made using a simplified technology, which is the advantage of a frame bath. It is necessary to make a foundation of asbestos-cement pillars, which, after installation, are poured with concrete.

The next step is to mark the walls. Then you need to start connecting the boards using nails. The upper and lower strapping is assembled from the boards. The walls for such a bath are made in a lattice structure.

Note!

The materials that are needed for the walls are bars, insulation, and materials for the outside, for example OSB boards or a block house, and inside you can use the clapboard.

Materials for insulation and vapor barrier

It is worth insulating the bath outside only with the condition of heating in the building.

For a wooden bath, it is necessary to make a grate that will be inserted into the insulation. The work will need mineral wool, the layer width of which will be 50 mm.

Bath floor

In the case of a frame bath, when it remains to insulate the floors, as well as to install floorboards, in addition to this, it is necessary to install logs, a rough floor, and fix the structure for removing steam, then lay the insulation and check the waterproofing.

It is best to make the floor of concrete, as this will allow the bath to dry faster and it will last much longer. Shields made of wood are laid on the concrete floor, they can subsequently be taken out to dry and calmly go about their business.

Note!

Do-it-yourself bath photo

For a Russian person, a bath is not a luxury, but a vital necessity. Even historians are convinced that love for a bath broom and good heat is literally in our blood, and even in the poorest villages nearby, new steam rooms were regularly built every five years (the old ones burned down). And Peter I, during a trip to France, could not stand two days without his own steam, urgently ordering to build a Russian bath right on the bank of a foreign river, which shocked the natives a lot. But what if building is so expensive today, and public steam rooms are not to everyone's liking? And if rest in the steam room is not just useful procedures, but also valuable communication with friends, barbecue and the opportunity to breathe fresh air? Then we will learn the cunning tricks of modern Russian craftsmen who manage to build their steam rooms literally for vacation pay.

So, let's look at the most successful projects for the construction of baths and their implementation, where the main task was to save as much as possible, but at the same time not to lose in the comfort of bath procedures. After all, as they say, the most budgetary bath is the vestibule of a summer commuter train.

What can and cannot be saved on when building a bath?

Agree, no savings are worth the loss of health, property or life. But the most sad situations occur when the question of cheapness is approached thoughtlessly: such baths first slowly poison their owners by releasing hazardous substances, and then either burn or deteriorate quickly. But this does not mean that it is better to give up and give all the hard-earned money to the conscience of the construction team - it is better to just give up dangerous use during construction from the very beginning:

1. Uncertified materials and fakes, for which unscrupulous sellers ask for several times less. And at the same time they convince the buyer that "there is no difference with the expensive material, there is simply no markup for the brand, my brother / matchmaker / son-in-law has had a bath with this for half a century, and nothing."
2. Materials that are strictly not intended for the construction and decoration of baths. So, if it is impossible to insulate the walls in the sauna with foam plastic, then it is impossible, and this is not a whim of the manufacturer. Again, a neighbor who, at his own peril and risk, insulated in this way and is now showing off is not an example.
3. Unsuitable accessories for conducting electricity in the bath (wires, sockets), unprotected lamps or cheap Chinese products.
4. Homemade stoves and water heaters that no one has tested for fire safety.
5. Combustible materials and those that do not indicate that they can be used in conditions of high humidity and heat.

If you are building a bathhouse with your own hands and are forced to save as much as possible on materials, calculate your every step well, consult with experts and do not leave anything unattended “it seems to work”. And finally, save on a limited budget better on cubic meters of the steam room, but not on the materials of its finishing. Such is the advice.

Let's take a little look at affordable heaters. So, basalt wool is made of stone (basalt). Its main advantage is that the fibers inside the insulation are connected not chemically, but by another technology, and therefore, even when placed behind the foil in the steam room, hazardous substances will not be released. This insulation is non-flammable and insulates the firebox well. For a bath - the best option. If you want to save money, then put one layer of basalt wool and a couple of layers of another, cheaper material on the ceiling.

Penofol is also used as an economical option - porous propylene with polyethylene film and foil spraying. You can buy it in roll form and attach it directly to a bare wall. This material is a good heat bridge between the wall itself and the insulation.

1. Purchase a stove without a remote firebox - so much less firewood will be spent on heating the steam room, and such a unit is inexpensive.
2. Be sure to install a water tank - this is the fastest and most economical way.
3. Make the foundation for the bath cheap and removable: it is much cheaper and easier with it to carry out repair work and change it to another.
4. Pay maximum attention to the insulation of the bath - the less you "heat the street", the more economical the heating itself will be.
5. Stick a bubble wrap on the window in the break room in winter - this will keep you warm by at least 50%.
6. Instead of a regular shower or shower stall, put a traditional Russian tub. And healthier, by the way. And it is not at all necessary to pour only ice water into it.
7. When purchasing lining, take short-sized bars - they are cheaper and look no worse.
8. Build the roof of the bathhouse low, no more than the ratio of width to height 1: 3. Such a structure will take much less materials, and the chimney will also not need to be made high.

Project # 1 - a compact sauna at a minimum cost

So, a step-by-step process:

• Step 1 - foundation. We will make the foundation columnar. To do this, you will need to get a 2 meter auger drill. Use ordinary cheap 110 mm sewer pipes as casing. Insert the reinforcement from two connected rods.

• Step 2 - strapping. Place studs 500 mm long under the harness. Assemble the strapping 150x150, and prepare the frame racks with a height of 2200 mm. Treat the frame with Neomid 440 or some other suitable for the same purpose.
• Step 3 - walls. You can modify the walls directly on the harness, and just raise them. We cover the DSP. To do this, we pre-drill the plates, and then fasten them with self-tapping screws with a semicircular head.
• Step 4 - the roof. We cover the roof with eight-wave slate. We save after all!
• Step 5 - insulation. Now we put in any inexpensive insulation that is suitable for a bath. In this project - Linrock Light.
• Step 6 - oven. We put an inexpensive oven, you can make a homemade one. But under any, we must additionally lay out a brick corner.
• Step 7 - finishing. We fix the lining, skirting boards, cash holders.

So a compact and inexpensive steam room is ready.

If the walls, due to savings, are not too strong, then the smaller the bath is in volume, the better - so its structural properties will be higher.

Project # 2 - arbolite is used

But a good example of the construction of a budget bath from wood concrete - the price does not come out much more expensive than the frame technology. So, the outer walls of the steam room will be 20 cm thick, inside there is a brick partition from the stove.

This is how the construction process looks like:

• Step 1. We dig a drain pit with dimensions of 1.2x1.8x1.4 m. On both sides, we fill the OPGS with stones, make the formwork, fill it.
• Step 2. We dig a foundation 30 cm wide, up to 50 cm deep. We fill it with sand and ram.
• Step 3. We put the formwork, reinforce two rods at the top and bottom. We put vertical rods every meter. Fill the foundation.
• Step 4. We put EPSP in the washing and steam room, the mesh and fill the floors. In the washing room, we additionally organize a drain.

• Step 5. We put the blocks, check the evenness of the walls with a level.
• Step 6. We make the roof using 50x100 boards. The optimal distance between the rafters is 55-80 cm. We cover.
• Step 7. We cook the oven or buy a budget ready-made one. The ventilation scheme is as follows: outside the air goes to the gap between the stove and the brick wall, where it heats up.
• Step 8. Install the shower tank in the attic.
• Step 9. We decorate the walls from the inside. If possible, use Izospan FB - a special material for baths, plus heat-resistant tape. Izolon is good for the ceiling, which can withstand temperatures up to 150 ° C.

Such is the budget and quite successful bath.

When choosing wood concrete, pay attention: according to its density, it can be heat-insulating and structural. The first has a density of 400-500 kg / m, the second - 500-850 kg / m. This material is used for the construction of self-supporting walls and has good heat and sound insulation.

Project # 3 - miniature log bathhouse in national style

And if you can't imagine a Russian steam room made of another material, like a bar, you can build such a relatively budget option.

• Step 1. Align the platform for the foundation from the dropout, put together the "formwork" and leave only the opening for draining water from the washing room.
• Step 2. We spread the EPS, knit the reinforcement cage. We fill it with concrete, make a ramp for water and the foundation is ready.
• Step 3. Laying the log house. Under the first crown we put a board treated with an antiseptic, which we cover with roofing material on three sides. You can put moss on the board itself - it has antiseptic properties, and therefore the bath crown will last even longer.
• Step 4. We build the walls and leave it for several months to shrink.
• Step 5. Fasten the rafters and cover the roof. We make a pipe passage through the overlap - it is easy to make it from a metal corner and a sheet of stainless steel.
• Step 6. Between the steam room and the dressing room we make a frame partition, insulate it with mineral wool and sheathe it with clapboard on both sides.
• Step 7. We spread the floor in front of the stove with porcelain stoneware. We leave a special hole in the floor for supply ventilation.
• Step 8. We remove the pipe from the stove through the roof. The passage is made of Master-flush rubber, which is resistant to temperature. Seal the joint with the roofing with MS-polymer.
• Step 9. We fix the shelves in the steam room and connect the electricity.

Remember, the first step to huge savings when building your own bath is to build it yourself!

Project # 4 - steam room on a light frame from improvised means

Bars for the bath frame can be made even from collected firewood, if desired. The main thing is only to choose from them without defects and knots, and be sure to treat with an antiseptic.

So, we are building a budget bath from improvised means:

• Step 1. We make beams for the frame, process and dry.
• Step 2. We build a pile-rubble foundation: we pull out the soil by a meter with a drill, forget there thick pine stakes and make a backfill of concrete and stones on top. Next, fill in the pillars to the top.
• Step 4. Assembling the frame.
• Step 5. Dig a hole under the drain, insert a barrel with broken bricks and rubble inside, take a ladder there. This is not an insulated summer option, but for a winter one you can lay a heater or a heating cable.
• Step 6. and the ceiling, put a film on top of the insulation. We put Finnish foil paper for saunas on the walls and ceiling.
• Step 7. We put the oven. Take with the register, tk. you need water heating for the washing room - in order not to purchase a separate boiler. So, it has proven itself - inexpensive and heats well.

Such a bath serves surprisingly for a long time, the steam pleases and it is a pleasure to spend time in it. And you can always find cons.

Mini-baths: cheap and cheerful

But if there is no money at all for the construction of a steam room, you should not despair - today there are many options to build a steam room out of nothing. Let's take a closer look.

Barrel bath

This is the most common, only of a more solid size. Part of it is covered by a wooden lattice screen, behind which the stove is hidden. There is a small bench in front of the screen. Even three people can steam at the same time in such a bath. But this option is only for summer: they rolled it out onto the site, put it horizontally, threw firewood into the stove and you can pour water on the stones. But as a low-budget option - very much even nothing.

Hiking bath

Such a bath is taken mainly on a hike, but if there is no other alternative, it can be used on the site. It will be inexpensive, because it is an ordinary tent, in which they put a stove or an electric one. This is no longer the same soft Russian bath, but as a temporary phenomenon it also has a right to exist.

Built-in mini-sauna

There is also a fashion to do in the bathroom. So, we transfer the washing machine to the kitchen, and in its place we build something that looks like a wardrobe. This is a small structure, about 1.5 m high, made of a frame and upholstered with clapboard. Inside there is one seat shelf and a built-in steam generator. The person sits down, closes the door, turns on the device. But his head remains outside - for the sake of safety. Using special aromatic oils and other SPA-elements is quite a good way to improve your health. We can say that this is the smallest and cheapest bath in the world.

Baths in the car

If you have the opportunity to get a non-working minibus or a car with a body, you can build a small bathhouse right in them. Our website even has detailed master classes on how to do this, and such an undertaking will turn out to be much more profitable than starting the construction of a steam room with pouring the foundation. Experiment!

Many people dream of their own bath in the courtyard of a private house or summer cottage. Indeed, in addition to washing, it can be used for various wellness sessions. But what is the best way to build a bathhouse? The correct choice of material affects the quality and strength of the building, as well as its service life. When choosing a finish, it must be borne in mind that the internal surfaces will be constantly exposed to steam and high temperatures. There are various options for materials, but you need to give preference to high quality products.

Source stroyvsegda.ru

Nuances of material selection

It should be borne in mind that quite stringent requirements are imposed on the construction of baths. This is due to the fact that they are often heated with wood. There are few criteria when choosing a material, but they should definitely be taken into account, otherwise the functionality of the bath can be quite severely disrupted, and its use will be expensive and inconvenient.

When choosing what is better to build a bath from, you will need to take into account a number of specific criteria. In addition to strength, materials must have the following characteristics:

1. Thermal insulation properties. Thanks to this, it will be possible to maintain the microclimate of the bath without unnecessary expenditure of firewood or any other fuel.
2. Protection against strong changes in temperature and high humidity.

Source dcgate.pp.ua

In addition to the parameters considered, the size of the future building, its location on the ground and the financial capabilities of the developer also affect the choice of material. It is also extremely important to consider the quality of the purchased products. So, the wood should have an average moisture content and high-quality processing. In addition to wood, a large number of materials are used, each of which has its own strengths and weaknesses.

Popular materials for building a bath

There are a huge number of options for building a sauna. When choosing what to build a bath from, most often pay attention to the following materials:

• Wood.
• Aerated concrete structures.
• Expanded clay concrete.
• Brick.
• Arbolit.
• Cinder block.

All of these materials are perfect for building a bath. Their properties and characteristics are quite different, so it is recommended to carefully study them before choosing.

Wood for building a bath

When asked what to build a bath from, many experts often advise wood. It is possible to use various types of wood, the parameters of which vary greatly. Industrial options include:

• Pine. This breed has natural protection against mold or insects in the form of resin. The tree has a high moisture resistance. Pine is quite popular, you can buy it in any construction market. It has a low price in comparison with other types. The disadvantages include "crying" at high temperatures, which will require additional treatment against decay.
• Linden. It is extremely easy and convenient to work with such a tree. Ideal for the construction of a sauna, as it has an excellent level of heat resistance. But it should be borne in mind that linden darkens without finishing, it is also susceptible to moisture.
• Aspen. It is insensitive to moisture and has a high level of density. When erected, this rock gives a slight shrinkage. It has a long service life and an attractive red color. The disadvantages include a rather high cost and difficult processing due to density.
• Fir. This type is rarely used in construction, as it is subject to decay and is characterized by low strength.
• Alder. It has a high cost, but at the same time it is of good quality. It shrinks slightly and has a beautiful red color. It is easy to work with such a breed, it does not twist. But in the process of operation, it darkens and is subject to decay.

Source banyabest.ru

Also, log cabins and beams are often used. The log house is an environmentally friendly material. After construction, interior and exterior decorative finishing will not be required, since the log is attractive. Also, log cabins have an excellent level of thermal insulation. The disadvantages include large shrinkage after construction, cracking and bending of the material during construction and operation.

The timber is more protected from mechanical damage, it is additionally treated with solutions that provide protection against mold and fire. It should be borne in mind that the construction of a bath based on a tree requires experience and skills. You need to work carefully and take your time.

Source oreldom57.ru

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the design and construction of a bath. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the Low-Rise Country exhibition of houses.

Video description

Manual felling technology and how much a cedar bath costs, see the following video:

Aerated concrete

When the question arises, from which blocks it is better to build a bath, many prefer aerated concrete. Aerated concrete blocks are made on the basis of cement, quartz sand and foaming agents. Products are processed in a special way, which provides them with high strength.

The advantages of using such material include:

1. Refractoriness. This is an extremely important criterion for the material on the basis of which the sauna will be built.
2. Excellent strength, which only grows over time.
3. Low weight. This nuance simplifies construction and allows you to abandon the foundation.
4. Ease of processing. The material is easily sawn and drilled.

Source sibpodryad24.ru

The main disadvantages include a rather high price and the ability to absorb and store moisture. So before using aerated concrete for a bath, it is treated with special solutions. Also, during the construction of the building, you will need to take additional care of creating steam insulation.

Another distinctive feature of aerated concrete is its installation on a special glue, which is used as a replacement for the cement composition. It is better not to use cement, as the blocks will absorb moisture from it, which will lead to a decrease in thermal insulation.

Expanded clay concrete

This product is a material based on cement, expanded clay, foamed and fired clay. The advantages of this choice include non-toxicity, poor moisture absorption and low thermal conductivity. Also, these structures are lightweight, which will allow you to abandon the base and save a lot. A bathhouse based on such material needs a small amount of insulation. The resistance to low temperatures of expanded clay is 5 times higher than that of aerated blocks, which allows guaranteeing a long service life. Also a significant advantage is the absence of shrinkage after construction.

Source vbanepar.ru

The thermal conductivity of such a material can vary depending on the grain size of the filler. This figure can vary from 0.15 to 0.45. The larger the grain, the lower the level of thermal conductivity and density. For the installation of such blocks, a conventional solution based on cement and sand or special adhesives is suitable. When building a bath, insulation will need to be carried out indoors. Basalt wool or foil layers are suitable for this.

Brick

Such material has the following undeniable advantages:

1. Long service life. Brick baths can last more than 100 years, while the service life of wooden buildings does not exceed 20 years.
2. Attractiveness. The brick does not need to be treated with any decorative solutions. It is suitable for creating any design structures.
3. Refractoriness. Unlike wood, bricks are not affected by fire.

Source daglse.ru

But the brick also has a number of disadvantages, especially when it comes to building a bath. These include:

1. The need for the construction of a strip base. This is a rather expensive and time-consuming procedure.
2. It takes more time to warm up the brick. It takes no more than 1.5 hours to warm up a wooden bath, and a brick structure will take much more time and fuel.
3. Poor ventilation. Brick surfaces are poorly breathable.
4. High price.

It will take a long time to build. You will need to wait until the concrete dries; it will also take time to lay the surfaces.

Due to its long service life and fire resistance, many people use brick. To get rid of some of the disadvantages of this choice, experts recommend using the following tips:

• In order to save money, it is best to purchase one and a half red brick.
• You will need to carefully consider the ventilation system, leave special gaps for this.
• When choosing cement, it is worth using grades of at least M200. Only they guarantee strength and high thermal insulation.
• It is better to insulate a brick-based bath from the inside so as not to spoil the attractiveness of the structure.

Arbolite-based baths

This material has been popular since Soviet times. Arbolite blocks are 90% wood waste. The required block size can be obtained using a chipper or crusher. Also, such structures must be filled with cement, which contains calcium and liquid sodium. Such components will accelerate the hardening of the mortar and protect the wood from deformation.

The advantages of using wood concrete include:

1. Low thermal conductivity.
2. The ability to maintain a comfortable moisture indicator in a building.
3. Environmental safety of the material.
4. Low price.

Source kak-peresadit.ru

When buying wood concrete for a bath, the main thing is to choose high-quality, durable blocks. It should also be borne in mind that such a material has a heat capacity similar to that of air. Because of this, the air first heats up in the sauna and only then the surfaces. In brick buildings, everything happens the other way around.

Outside, wood concrete walls are best sheathed with bricks, clapboard or wood with protection from moisture. For the construction of a bath, clapboard facing will be the most preferred solution due to its low cost.

Cinder blocks

This cheap material is made by pouring concrete of various waste, in the form of combustion products of coal, sawdust and other things. There are empty and full-bodied cinder blocks. The advantages of this choice include:

1. Long service life, which is about 50 years.
2. Fire protection.
3. Low price compared to wood or brick.
4. Various filling options will help you choose the most suitable solution.

Source nypost.com

The disadvantages of using cinder blocks include hygroscopicity, which will require waterproofing the material. Also, a disadvantage is high thermal conductivity, which is why the bath will need to provide additional thermal insulation. Another distinctive feature of the cinder block is that before using it in construction, it must be weathered in the air for at least a year. Because of this, construction will be greatly delayed.

Video description

More information about the choice of material for the construction of a bath is described in this video:

Construction of frame baths

Recently, a frame has become often used for the construction of baths. The advantages of this choice include:

1. Light weight of the structure, which allows installation on a light base.
2. High speed of building construction. Construction will take no more than 3 weeks, this is 3 times faster than using timber or bricks.
3. Excellent level of thermal insulation.
4. Construction is possible at any time of the year.
5. The surfaces allow air to pass through perfectly, due to which the bath has an excellent microclimate.
6. Environmental safety of materials.

Source karkas-dom64.ru

This solution also has its drawbacks. These include:

1. A fairly strong shrinkage occurs within 2 years. On average, it is 10 cm. To reduce this indicator, you will need to use kiln-drying materials.
2. Additional costs for insulation and cladding. The frame itself does not differ in high cost, but interior and exterior decoration will require investments.
3. Difficulty choosing a heater. You will need to use materials that are not afraid of fire and moisture.

Frame structures will allow you to save a lot, while they are able to provide an acceptable quality of construction.

Video description

What to look for when choosing material for a bath, see the following video:

Outcome

It is difficult to say unequivocally what is the best way to build a bathhouse. The choice of material largely depends on the personal plans and preferences of the developer. If a long service life is important, a brick will be the best choice. For quick heating of the bath, it is better to give preference to wood or various blocks. The best option today seems to be the construction of a bathhouse using frame technology.

As you know, life is very similar to a vest, with its alternation of light and black stripes. What if there is a regular financial crisis on the horizon, and not to your liking, and this very soul desperately requires only its own, domestic couple. There is only one way out - just build. Fortunately, a simple bathhouse, built in the maximum economy mode, will allow you to get the necessary minimum of bathing pleasures, except perhaps without frills. And excesses are profitable, because even the widest black financial streak has one good property - to end.

The construction of a bath in a limited budget does not mean disregard for the basic building rules, norms and principles, and common sense should be at the forefront. Therefore, we will try to form the key postulates of economical, but at the same time reasonable and high-quality construction, as it is now fashionable to call a "budget bath":

• Sadly, but in all likelihood, you will have to abandon the construction of a log bath from a cylindrical bar. High-quality material is expensive, and building a bathhouse of a very miniature size is fundamentally wrong. This statement does not apply to people living in abundant forest areas, where the forest stands outside the border of their own vegetable garden. In this case, the desire is reinforced by the presence of a good chainsaw, 3-4 loyal comrades and a couple of bottles of inexpensive vodka to appease the goblin or, at worst, the forester. For residents of treeless areas, the option of building from bricks, cinder blocks, bentonite should be considered. Used stone is also suitable for rough masonry. Inside it is still sheathed with wood, but outside it is always possible to ennoble the structure with an unedged, low-quality board sewn with an overlap and treated with a stain in the color of bog oak;
• Choose a stove without a remote firebox. On the one hand, this option is cheaper, on the other hand, such a furnace has a higher fuel efficiency. In most cases, simple baths are equipped with a metal welded oven. A stone oven, even in the most simplified version, is a costly product that requires both materials and skills. A metal stove is much more affordable for self-production. The material, with a certain skill, can also be looked after at the scrap metal collection points, and the services of a qualified welder are cheaper than the services of a bricklayer-stove maker.

Attention! Under a stove, even a simple and small one, you will have to lay out a stone stove corner and build a base. This remark applies to those who decided to erect a structure of wood, on a frame and when using other technologies that do not provide for the construction of walls from non-combustible mineral materials.

• ... The simplest and fastest, prefabricated belt, erected from blocks of the FBS type. Firstly, there is no need to build a full-profile formwork, and secondly, the volume of concrete work is drastically reduced. Blocks can be purchased second-hand, in most cases this does not affect the quality of the foundation. Delivery and installation of blocks can be combined by ordering a car with a crane-manipulator installation, in recent years they have firmly entered the construction life and have ceased to be something exotic;
• Make the roof low, squat, with a ratio to the height of the walls of about 1: 3. Thus, you will reduce the roof area, to some extent increase the energy efficiency of the structure and save on the height and length of the chimney;
• The hot water supply problem can be solved by tying the water tank around the chimney in the first third of the flue gas outflow. In addition, it is quite possible to abandon the shower and toilet. The shower stall is perfectly replaced by a tilting tub of water. Cheap and traditional;
• ... To provide enough light, give preference to rational placement on the cardinal points rather than window areas. It is not necessary to use a metal-plastic profile in conjunction with double-glazed windows. It is enough to insulate the wooden ones and get the minimum required effect. Fortunately, there are plenty of tools for this, these are films and insulation tapes and so on.

What you shouldn't save on

When calculating the budget and planning the construction, one should not forget that the simplest do-it-yourself bath should not contain materials:

1. Fire hazardous.
2. Susceptible to the destructive effects of high humidity.
3. Toxic and prohibited for use, based on sanitary and hygienic requirements.
4. You should not save on wiring and lighting elements.
5. The manufacture of stoves and chimneys should also be taken with full responsibility, since in addition to the flame, they can give rise to another enemy, and the invisible one - carbon monoxide.

A word from the Experienced! It is strongly not recommended to use foam plastic for warming a steam room. Yes, it is affordable, lightweight, relatively durable and easy to install. But at the same time, it is prone to the release of toxic substances into the steam room, especially at elevated temperatures. A good alternative in terms of economy and ecology would be sawdust, poured into the sinuses of the walls and ceiling. The only condition is good waterproofing with film materials, even if they are inexpensive.

We build ourselves: quickly, inexpensively, reliably

In this section, we will talk about how to build a simple do-it-yourself bath. Let this be not a step-by-step instruction, but a kind of code of the main fundamental and key points.

Foundation

We talked about the organization of the strip prefabricated foundation above. Now let's talk a little more about other options.

To organize a columnar foundation, you will need a mechanized hand drill with a diameter of 152 mm and a length of the working part of the order of 1500 mm. The drilled holes are cased with a plastic sewer pipe with a diameter of 110-120 mm and reinforced with two reinforcement rods with a diameter of 20-25 mm.

A strip monolithic foundation is organized on a compacted sole of a sand-crushed stone mixture and must have geometric dimensions: width 350 mm, depth 450-500 mm. The bearing capacity of such a monolith for structures of this type will be sufficient on the bulk of the underlying soils.

Reinforcement is made with a horizontal reinforcing bunch from below and from above from a rod with a diameter of 16-18 mm and a vertical one from a rod with a diameter of 20 mm, installed at a distance of about 1000 mm from one another. The monolith is poured in one go and matures for 21 days.

Important! When arranging the base, before pouring it, it is necessary to organize technological channels and holes so that in the future they do not pass through the monolith using a perforator, a jackhammer and obscene language.

The foundation is mandatory in the generally accepted way, with the help of roofing felt and bituminous mastic.

Walling

As already mentioned above, the bath room can be built from mineral non-combustible building materials in the traditional way, from a log, subject to its availability and using a frame method. Let us dwell on the latter in more detail.

The strength elements of the frame made of wooden beams are pretreated with an antiseptic and dried. The frame is tied to the foundation and is subsequently assembled on high-strength hardware using thrust washers. The space in the frame skeleton is filled with mineral wool using measures to ensure sufficient vapor and moisture insulation. The most accessible material is mineral wool.

It is easy to model the configuration of the interior on the frame, for example, to organize a dressing room by tying a partition made from a bar of a smaller section into the power skeleton.

Roof

It is typed according to the generally accepted technology. Rafters, in order to save money, can be slightly burned or processed with a fusa based on vegetable oil production waste. In the roof, as it is assembled, it is necessary to surround the chimney opening from a metal corner and a sheet of stainless steel, as it is more resistant to both high temperatures and in relation to atmospheric precipitation.

Sealing can be done with a special heat-resistant roofing mastic. Cover the roof using asbestos-cement 8-wave slate. Over time, to improve the overall appearance of the bath, slate can be painted with a special roofing paint.

Stove and floor

If the walls are erected from non-mineral materials, then the arrangement of a heat-resistant brick oven corner becomes mandatory. The floor in the baking space can be overlaid with porcelain stoneware, laying it on a gypsum fiber board. Take care of the creation of ventilation ducts, they can be either slotted, in the place where the stove is adjacent to the wall, or in the form of holes arranged in the wall or floor.

Water recovery system

It is equipped according to the most simplified scheme and in the absence of a central sewerage system, the discharge is carried out into a cesspool with a drainage substrate made of broken bricks and stone fines.

The walls of the cesspool can be used cargo tires of dimensions 315 × 80 × 22.5 or 385 × 80 × 22.5 as the most common. Such material can be obtained free of charge at the nearest truck tire fitting. The volume of the cesspool should be at least 5 cubic meters and its location should not cause difficulties with pumping out water from a cesspool truck.

Since arranging a cesspool is a rather troublesome task, we present a table of water filtration rate in various types of soil. It will help you have an idea of ​​the minimum volume you need:

Conclusion

Concluding this topic, I would like to summarize the following. a simple do-it-yourself bath is not something difficult or special to reproduce. But at the same time, when building it, one cannot ignore the generally accepted norms and requirements for construction work. Never save on wiring, do not use used cables and damaged insulating material. Don't skimp on electrical accessories. Sockets, switches, lamps must be of normal quality, which will help to avoid operational troubles in an abnormally humid environment. When designing a bath, leave reserves for its expansion and radical modernization, because very often the appetite comes with eating, and financial difficulties sooner or later end.