Concrete area in the country. Do-it-yourself concrete yard

Pouring concrete with your own hands, like the entire concreting technology as a whole, is a fairly simple process that even a high school student can do if desired. Everything here is extremely simple and there are practically no subtleties. Conventionally, all work can be represented in the form of three stages: assembly and installation of formwork, reinforcement, preparation and pouring of concrete. In this master class, together with the site, we will go through all three main stages of concreting and deal with their subtleties and features.

Photo site concreting

Pouring concrete: where to start and what you need

You need to start concreting the site with its preparation, to be absolutely precise, you will need to plan the area to be poured and make it as even as possible. It should be understood that each pit is extra concrete and labor costs for its preparation, and each bump is a weak point that can crack. The soil is planned to be almost in an ideal plane, I am not talking about the level here, since in most cases the platforms for the same car are made at an angle, which provides a free drain of rain and melt water. The planned site needs to be properly tamped.

As for the materials, you don't need much here - first you need the ingredients for making the concrete. Their number depends on the size of the site and the thickness of the poured layer. You can calculate the required amount of sand, cement, crushed stone, reinforcement and even ready-made concrete using ours (we set the concrete grade to M200). In addition to the ingredients for concrete, you will need a formwork board, a profile for beacons and a mixer in the face.

Concrete site: methods and technology of reinforcement

The next thing that the concreting process will require from you is to perform high-quality reinforcement of the future concrete site. There are two ways to approach this issue: in the first case, reinforcement is used, which will have to be tied up with wire and made into a lattice, and in the second situation, you can use a ready-made wire mesh with a cell of 200x200 or 100x100mm. The second method of reinforcement is simpler, but it is used for concreting sites for which small and short-term loads are planned. If we talk about a site for a car, then here it is better to use reinforcement with a thickness of 8-10 mm.

Concreting technology

It is easy to connect the frame from the reinforcement. You will need to lay it out on the concrete area in the form of a lattice and tie it at the intersections with soft steel wire. It is not worth boiling, since the hardened reinforced concrete will turn out to be inactive and will react to the smallest movements of the soil. The result will be cracks. Anyway, everything related to concrete reinforcement is produced without welding.

How to make formwork: an easy way

The question of how to fill the site with concrete is impossible without the installation of formwork - not a single concrete work is complete without this stage of work. Concrete always needs to be shaped to the desired shape. In the case of our concrete platform, the formwork can be called an elementary simple product - in fact, you just need to enclose the contours of the platform with a board or other similar and suitable material.

So that concrete does not fill up such fences during the pouring process, they will need to be slightly strengthened - on the back of the board, wooden or metal stakes must be driven into the ground. This will be quite enough, since the poured concrete layer will be small - a maximum of 150 mm.

How to make formwork photo

How to fill a flat area: installing beacons

So, it was already mentioned above that guides for drywall structures are used as beacons. With their help, you can quite simply, and most importantly, inexpensively lay a flat plane for the future site. The beacons are installed quite simply - a standard solution is prepared in a ratio of 1: 4 (1 part of cement and 4 parts of sand), rows of hills are formed from it, into which the guide profile is pressed. The installation process must be controlled - it is with its help that beacons are mounted under a site of any size.

Photo concreting process

If we talk about how to concrete a large site, then the technology for installing beacons looks like this. A thread is pulled along the future beacons - usually it is attached to pins from a round rod. Special marks are made on them with the help of a hydraulic level, onto which the edges of the thread are lowered. In principle, if we are talking about a plane, and not about the level of the horizon, then the first thread can be set arbitrarily, the second one to match it is set using a hydraulic level (the points on the pins of the first thread are simply transferred to the second). After that, a couple of transverse ones are pulled between the threads, on touching which beacons are installed - they can be moved along the entire plane of concreting. In a more modern version, the beacons are installed using a level or, at the same time, each beacon attachment point is controlled.

Lighthouses are attached every 0.5m. And before concreting, the solution on which the beacons are installed must dry well.

Concreting: mixture preparation and pouring

The question of how to pour concrete correctly can be solved quite simply, but first, a few words about the technology of its preparation. It is necessary to mix the solution with a concrete mixer in a strictly defined sequence - any violations reduce the quality of the mixture. To begin with, water is poured into the container of the concrete mixer. Then, with the mixer already running, cement is poured into the pear. It is followed by crushed stone, which prevents the cement from "grabbing" in breasts or lumps (it acts as an additional blade of a concrete mixer). And then comes the sand. After that, we control the density of the solution and knead it for 10-15 minutes.

How to pour concrete correctly

When the mortar is ready, the concrete is poured between the beacons and carefully leveled using a rule or an even and rigid lath. There is nothing difficult, the main thing is to have time to level the surface before the water is absorbed into the soil. If this nevertheless happened, then the concrete that has lost moisture must be poured abundantly with water.

How to concrete a site

In conclusion, a few words about the concrete drying process. The fact is that this building mixture must lose moisture very, very slowly. The strength of the concrete base and its ability to withstand heavy loads depend on this. After the concrete is poured and it has cooled down a little (there will be no water on top), the site is covered with cellophane, which prevents moisture evaporation and prevents the concrete from cracking from the rapid loss of moisture.

With the improvement of the local area of ​​a private house, the question arises of the formation of a parking space for a car. The most affordable, inexpensive and fastest solution will be the concreting of the area for the car.

Types of sites for the car

Do-it-yourself parking spaces can be made of various materials, they are:

• crushed stone or gravel;
• lawn;
• eco-textile;
• tiled;
• concrete.

Crushed stone, gravel or pebbles can be taken with medium fraction. The main thing is that the stones do not get stuck in the tire treads. Such parking lots are built quite simply: a sandy base 15 cm high is poured onto the territory marked out for a car, geotextiles are laid on top. A crushed stone embankment is laid on the material, the layer height must be at least 15 cm, after which this "pillow" is leveled and compacted. The parking is ready, to mark its boundaries, you can overlay the embankment with bumpers made of brick or. It is advisable to take crushed stone.

Lawn parking lots for cars are distinguished by their simplicity: the car is simply parked on the grass, the parking space can also be marked with bumpers made of old tires.

Eco-textiles will look more aesthetically pleasing than lawn grass, on which wheel ruts form over time. The arrangement of such a parking lot is also simple: a sand and gravel mixture with a total layer height of 15-20 cm is laid on the marked area, covered with geotextiles, and lawn honeycombs are attached on top. In these forms, you only need to fill the earth mixed with the seeds of the lawn. By periodically spilling soil backfill, you can get a fun parking lot with a neatly marked grating of lawn grass.

Parking from paving slabs it is more difficult to build than the previous types of parking lots, but the laboriousness of the process pays off due to the strength of the parking lot and the increased service life of the site. The tile is laid on a dry cement-sand mixture, previously compacted, the borders are fenced with borders. The aesthetic appearance of such a parking lot can only be spoiled by the grass sprouting in the tile joints.

A concrete platform for a car is considered the most difficult to construct among the above types of parking, but its reliability and durability are worth it. A monolithic base, filled with your own hands using the correct technology, will last longer than other parking lots.

Concrete parking lot production

A concrete platform is arranged in several stages:

1. Preparatory work.
2. The bottom device for the site.
3. Formwork construction.
4. Reinforcement.
5. Mortar preparation and pouring.

For the construction of a parking lot, it is necessary to know the weight of the car in order to create a concrete structure with the required brand strength. It is needed in order for the monolithic base to withstand the distribution of the load from the machine.

Tools that will be needed for manufacturing

The set of tools for the construction of a concrete parking lot includes:

• boards or metal sheets for formwork;
• metal profiles for the construction of lighthouses;
• building level;
• pegs and rope for marking;
• container for solution;
• shovel, fittings;
• steel wire.

It is best to take cement of the M500 brand with frost-resistant additives, sand - river medium fraction; the water must be clean without impurities. The presence of a concrete mixer will speed up the process of creating a parking lot.

Site selection, measurements and area calculation

The place for parking must be selected based on the criterion of availability. It is advisable to use for the site a part of the territory of the entrance to the house in front of the gate or in the yard.

The size of the future parking lot will depend on the number of cars parked. For example, for a car with a length of up to 4 m, the optimal dimensions of the site will be 2.5x5 m.It should be remembered that adjoining the parking lot close to the foundation of the house is undesirable, since connecting the parking lot can lead to deformation of buildings due to the expansion of the concrete structure due to the effect of temperature extremes ...

After determining the parking space, you need to mark the site. To do this, pegs are driven in at the corners, between which the rope is pulled, - this is how the boundaries of the base to be poured are indicated.

Surface preparation

After marking, garbage and weeds are removed from the construction site. Then a layer of soil is removed to a depth of at least 20 cm. Excavation of the earth is necessary to remove the rhizomes of weeds, which can subsequently rot and destroy the concrete structure.

After preparing a small pit, you can start building a sand cushion:

1. Sand is poured at the bottom with a layer thickness of 10-15 cm. It should be leveled, slightly moistened and tamped tightly.
2. On top of the sand layer, crushed stone of the middle fraction is laid, the thickness of the crushed stone filling should be at least 10 cm. It is also leveled, moistened and carefully compacted.

In order for precipitation and water after washing the machine not to linger on the concrete site, it is recommended to form it with a slight slope and provide a place for draining.

Before filling the parking lot, it is required to mount a removable formwork structure - it contributes to the formation of smooth edges of the site. For this, the fences are installed at right angles into the pit. You can fasten them together with nails or self-tapping screws.

Edged boards, thick plywood, metal sheets are used as formwork. You can also arrange the installation of a permanent formwork from a curbstone, installing it around the perimeter of the site at the edges of the pit. However, in this case, a base addition will also be needed under the sides, since the site should rise above the ground.

After the device of the formwork, it is recommended to install beacons - with their help, the evenness of the mass will be monitored. As beacons, a metal profile is used, cut into the required number of pins. Notches are cut on the lighthouses, along which you can navigate to level the surface.

The pins are fastened on slides made of a sand-cement mixture in a ratio of 4: 1 (sand-cement) prepared in solution. A cord is stretched between the beacons, which is fixed along the marked notches; it is recommended to check the evenness using a level. The distance between the beacons should be no more than 0.5 m.

Reinforcement

To enhance the strength of concrete, it is necessary to reinforce it. The process consists in laying the reinforcement cage on a sand-crushed stone pillow in 1-2 layers.

The frame is made in the form of a lattice of reinforcing bars with a diameter of 8-10 mm, fastened together with wire. It is desirable to connect the rods with a viscous one, welding is prohibited due to the increased rigidity of the mesh: in the case of complete fixation of the bars, the reinforcing cage loses its mobility and can lead to deformation of the concrete coating.

Filling parking

At the end of the preparatory work, concrete is poured. It is necessary to fill the site at a time, therefore, it is necessary to knead the solution in such a volume that will be worked out immediately. The thickness of the concrete layer should be between 20 and 25 cm.

A standard pad mix should contain:

• river sand - 3 parts;
• cement M500 - 1 part;
• crushed stone of the middle fraction - 2 parts.

Water is added in the amount necessary for mixing the thick solution, but not more than half of the volume of the binder.

After pouring, the surface should be left for 2 days until hardening, pre-punctured in several places in order to release air from the mass. Then it is advisable to cut the site, leaving the grooves in several places - this is necessary to prevent deformation of the building due to the expansion of concrete due to the temperature difference. After 2 days, you can grind the surface, smoothing it if necessary.

It is recommended to cover the structure with a film and moisten it 3-5 times a day in order for the concrete to set and harden faster, within a week. Full hardening will occur in a month, then the concrete will gain brand strength and will be suitable for use.

Calculation of cement mortar

Some builders believe that rubble can be omitted if it has already been poured onto a sand bed as a base. Then, to prepare the concrete mass, it is enough to use sand with cement, calculating the composition of the mixture in a 1: 1 ratio, and dilute it with water until a homogeneous mass of medium viscosity is formed. The density of the mass should be such that it could seep through the rubble layer.

Many of us who have our own summer cottage also have our own car, which today is more of a necessity than a luxury item. But for him on the site, it is also necessary to make a separate parking space. It's good if you have a garage, otherwise you need to equip part of the territory for personal transport. You can simply clear the free area of ​​debris, but it would be much better to concrete it. Only this method is applicable if the soil on the site is stable and does not shift at different times of the year. How to equip the parking will be discussed below.

Parking requirements

Before you start preparing to release, you need to consider some requirements. The car must be free to park in the parking space. The exact size of the site will depend on the number of vehicles.

The optimal dimensions for one car should be at least:

• 2.5 m wide;
• 4.5 m long.

Be sure to watch this video before building a parking lot in the country:

The car park should be located slightly above the level of the entire lot. Moreover, if there are bumps or depressions on its surface, they must be eliminated. That is, to create an absolutely flat surface. It may also be that plant roots remain in the chosen parking spot. In this case, you also need to get rid of them. Otherwise, after some time, the concreted area will be covered with cracks and begin to collapse. Ideally, remove the topsoil. This will get rid of excess roots to avoid weeds and also drop the surface.

Before pouring, you need to lay a sand and gravel pillow on the base. At the same time, give it a slightly spherical shape so that water does not accumulate on the surface of the parking lot, but flows from it.

When deciding to concrete a site for a car, you need to take into account one feature of the building material. Concrete is able to expand under the influence of temperature changes. This should be taken into account by those summer residents who plan to make a site in the immediate vicinity of the house or any other building with a foundation.

If the base of the parking lot is poured close to the foundation of the building, then the first will simply destroy the second. Therefore, a small distance must be maintained between both bases.

Benefits of concreting

Why concreting? Why can't you just clear the prepared area of ​​debris? Such questions can arise from almost any summer resident.

Answering these questions will provide the following benefits:

• First of all, the concreted area is easier to keep clean. It does not require any special maintenance, and it is much easier to remove debris and snow.
• The result is an absolutely flat and durable surface without pits and puddles.
• Finally, it's an attractive look. Additionally, small flower beds or a bench can be placed in the parking lot.

Preparatory work

Do-it-yourself parking in the country is quite simple, but you must not forget about a number of important preparatory work:

1. First of all, you need to mark the selected parking space. Using pegs and a rope, outline the shape of the future site.
2. After that, you need to remove the top layer of earth 10-20 cm thick. You can not throw it away, as it will be useful for other purposes.
3. Next, you should lay a pillow of sand and gravel, and each layer should be moistened and well tamped.

Formwork and reinforcement

At the next stage of work in a dug pit, it is necessary to make a formwork from boards.

The boards should be level and supported from the outside with pegs so that the formwork does not fall apart under the pressure of the mortar. If necessary, you need to take care of additional strengthening.

We make the formwork

As for the height of the support structure, 20 cm is enough to support the weight of the SUV. At the same time, the upper edge of the boards was slightly higher than the ground level, so that the platform would rise slightly, as mentioned above.

After the formwork is ready, the pillow needs to be covered with geotextile.

After preparing the formwork, it is necessary to make reinforcement so that the coating is strong and reliable. In addition, the risk of cracking is significantly reduced.

We reinforce our car site

As experts advise, you should not use ordinary metal rods for reinforcement, in order to avoid rotting of the metal inside the concrete. A specially designed stainless steel mesh is best suited.

Pouring concrete

To prepare a concrete solution, you will need M300 or even M400 cement. It is good if there is a concrete mixer, otherwise the solution will have to be kneaded by hand.

To prepare good quality concrete, you need to adhere to the following proportion of sand, cement and crushed stone 3: 1: 2.

It is worth pouring the site with a monolithic structure in order to exclude joints in which concrete usually cracks.

When leveling the surface, it is worth giving it a slight slope from the middle to the periphery for water drainage. Forming voids should be immediately filled with cement mortar, and the entire surface should be leveled again.

Final stage

After the parking lot for the car in the country, or rather its base, has been laid and hardened, the area should be sprinkled with wet sawdust. You can use wet rags instead. The next three days, while the concrete dries, sawdust or rags need to be moistened.

Despite the fact that concrete begins to harden rather quickly, it will take a long period of time to gain final strength. In this regard, over the next 30 days, the site should not be exposed to heavy loads. That is, do not park the vehicle immediately after pouring the concrete.

Other options

In addition to concreting, you can cover the parking lot with rubble. This surface has its advantages. It is not covered with cracks, it is capable of passing water.

parking from rubble

One has only to carefully select the material for the base. Crushed limestone is not suitable as it crumbles quickly and can become overgrown with weeds. Better to use river pebbles. Moreover, to form the base, lay a large fraction (30-60 mm), and fill it with fine gravel (5-20 mm) on top.

However, there are also disadvantages here. Due to the fact that the surface is uneven, this makes cleaning much more difficult in winter. In addition, it is very difficult to move around in shoes with heels. A lot of trouble is caused by fallen leaves and small debris, which can get deep between the pebbles. In addition, it is worth considering that periodically gravel must be poured in, as it creeps.

Parking from paving slabs

Paving slabs may also be suitable for paving a parking lot. This may incur additional costs, but the parking looks more stylish. In this case, the color can be chosen in such a way that it matches the material of the garden paths or the basement of the house. In this case, a sand and gravel pillow should also be laid under the tiles.

The tile surface is water permeable and does not crack. The only thing that is needed is to observe the correct laying technology.

Concrete pads are quite durable, and with a certain amount of design imagination they can, for example, successfully complement your garden. Many people choose to lay out brick patios, but they can look quite attractive on their own thanks to the creative design elements.

Required materials and tools

• building mixture;
• concrete mixer;
• gravel, screed;
• boards 5 × 15 cm;
• nails, shovel;
• reinforcing mesh;
• hose;
• trowel, a tool for joining seams;
• protective clothing, mask, goggles, etc.;
• water level.

A step-by-step description of the construction process from preparation to pouring

1) Building a patio requires preliminary calculations. Buy materials and tools well in advance. The approximate calculation of concrete is as follows: to cover 5 sq. m 15 cm thick, you will need 25 bags of building mixture (to speed up the process, it is better to use a ready-made mixture).

2) Work the soil to a depth of 15 cm. Then the bottom 5 cm will be covered with gravel, the remaining 10 cm will be filled with mortar. The gravel layer is designed to prevent freeze-thaw cracking. Make sure there is a slope away from the side of the house for water drainage. You can also adjust the mark by inserting pegs on the high (near the house) and low sides, and then pull the ropes between them. The rope should be level with the intended surface mark. The slope should be about 2 cm per meter.

3) Assemble the gravel and concrete mold. Dip the mold into the prepared area. If you want your patio to be at ground level, the top of the mold must be at that level.

4) Pack the gravel as tightly as possible. Use flat stones up to 5cm high (so you can save your garden from unnecessary stones at the same time!) As a support for the reinforcement cage, which must be installed in your 10cm concrete slab.

5) Install the reinforcement cage to connect the plate. Place the nets 50 cm from the edges of each side of the lot. Tie them together at the intersections with wire.

6) Stir the mixture in a concrete mixer, having previously added water using a hose, then add the mixture and water again alternately until it acquires a uniform gray color.

7) Pour cement into the concrete area, starting at the farthest edge from your mixer location and observing the slope. You can also add stones to fill the volume. Try to keep this process as short as possible. Concrete preparation in this case is of decisive importance.

8) Screed up to surface level, along the top of the mold edges. Pull the tie from one end to the other and remove the excess concrete.

9) Cut thermal seams for every 1-1.5 m using a trowel or spatula (but not a garden trowel!) 5 cm deep. To make the seam even, place a board as a guide across the forms at a right angle.

10) Using a water level, check that the surface is also level.

11) Align the protrusions on the surface with a rule. Make an arched motion, keeping one side slightly raised and the other pressing down on the surface.

12) To complete the installation of thermal seams described in step 9, it is necessary to use a jointing tool, with which the groove is cleared to a depth of 2-3 cm (or 1/4 of the total depth of the slab). Use the same orientation board.

13) The finishing touch to the concrete surface will be the design elements. When brushed, your patio looks attractive and practical at the same time: visual aesthetics on one side and a safe rough surface on the other.

14) The patio can be covered with plastic or sprinkled with sawdust. Let the solution harden properly. For this, it must not be allowed to dry out too quickly. Covering it with plastic or sawdust will keep moisture inside. Keep it under plastic for a week. The cement mortar will harden in about three weeks, so even after removing the plastic, do not put too much stress on it. The total hardening time of cement may vary depending on the characteristics of your mixture, therefore, when purchasing material, carefully read the instructions.

15) If you are concerned that a large amount of drains could cause damage, you should consider installing a drainage system in your yard before starting to build a concrete site. If there is a common drainage system, you will be able to arrange drainage for the site. Linear drains are most suitable for this purpose. They can be connected to the common yard drainage system.

1) Try to avoid skin contact with the solution, as well as inhalation of dust. It is recommended to use gloves, long trousers, safety shoes, goggles, mask and other means.

2) If you want to lay out the upper level of the site with bricks, dig the soil to an additional depth of 7.5 cm: 6.5 cm for brick and 1 cm for filling with mortar.

3) If during the development of the soil, you come across stones, they can be cleared of the ground and used when filling the site. They can take up volume, saving concrete mix. It is also a great way to get rid of unnecessary stones from the garden.

4) With a concrete development height of 15 cm, 5x15 cm boards will create the most suitable shape. But since their upper edges will be at ground level, avoid getting various debris by covering the concreting area with a tarp.

The owner of a private house probably had a question more than once, what material to fill the yard with? We need convenient paths, parking spaces, barbecue installations, gazebos for relaxation. For a comfortable living in the yard, you can, of course, lay out a plot near the house with beautiful tiles, but not everyone can afford to use it, and even more so the tile may not last long, it often cracks and crumbles. And the yard will no longer look beautiful and well-groomed. The least time consuming and cheapest way to get your yard in perfect condition is to concrete it. If you wish, you can fill the concrete yard with your own hands.

Concreting purposes

Yard concreting is used for the following purposes:

• creating a flat surface with a solid structure, on which traces of large vehicles will not remain;
• when concreting the courtyard of a country house, the formation of dirt and weeds decreases, and in the winter season it is easier to clear it of snow;
• use concreting to replace fragile asphalt or expensive tiles;
• a concrete surface in the courtyard of the house allows you to easily install benches, fountains and any other decorative street element.

The nuances of self-concreting

Concrete laying has the following nuances:

Preparatory work

Do-it-yourself concreting begins with preparatory work. The first step is to prepare the necessary tools and materials, after which the site is leveled and the upper tier of the soil, which contains the plant roots, is removed. Then they do. A waterproofing layer in the form of a polyethylene film is laid on the crushed stone. It will not only serve to repel moisture, but will be a barrier to weed germination. Formwork is installed along the edges of the site and in places of future flower beds.

Leveling and site preparation

Prepared site for concreting.

Work begins with the preparation of the base; for this, the soil with plant roots is removed by 100 mm. A backfill is made, the thickness of which is from 100 to 200 mm. "Pillow" is made of crushed stone or sand, the use of crushed stone allows you to reduce overall costs. Do not use bedding in places with poorly absorbed soil. After making the bedding, tamp or sand and watered with water. For the construction of the formwork, wooden boards are driven into the ground. It is important to cover the backfill with a plastic layer and seal it with tape. Polyethylene performs the following functions:

• waterproofing, which is designed to protect concrete from early destruction;
• barrier, for the grass breaking through through the frozen solution;
• shutter, does not allow the flow of milk from the cement until the setting of the solution, which contributes to a decrease in the strength characteristics of concrete.

Cushioning and Sealing

"Pillow" is used to improve the quality characteristics of the concrete base. It is made from crushed stone and sand and laid on the ground in an even layer 100-200 mm thick. If necessary, sand is compacted using a channel with a handle. The device is immersed in the solution and rammed up and down alternately. You can also do the following: pour a layer of sand with plenty of water and leave it to sit down on its own. The disadvantage of this method is the need for a large volume of water, which increases the prices for the total costs. Crushed stone 0.6 cm thick is laid on a layer of sand and also rammed.

Formwork preparation

Formwork and reinforcement of the yard for pouring concrete.

For even solidification, formwork is built, which will give it the desired shape. Slate sheets, plastic panels, wooden boards and chipboards are used to mount the formwork. Before erecting the formwork, clean the working surface and hammer in the bars at the same distance. Connect the shields with self-tapping screws or nails. After that, they begin to create wooden clamps, which are used for the reliability of the structure at the time of the pressure of the concrete solution on the walls of the molds.

Concreting stages

Yard concreting consists of the following stages:

• displaying beacons;
• reinforcement;
• preparation of concrete solution;
• finishing treatment.

Exposing lighthouses

For the display of lighthouses, the evenness of the construction site is important. It can be provided even at the stage of laying the "pillow" using a horizontal level. Beacons are placed over the entire area of ​​the working surface for pouring. Thin-sheet profiles and twines, which are connected by stretched stakes or, as they are also called, a spider, can act as a beacon. The spider is designed to guide lighthouses.

Reinforcement

After installing the beacons, a reinforcing structure is laid between them. It can be made in the form of a wire mesh with a thick diameter. The reinforcement is designed to prevent cracks on the concrete surface. Shovels between previously installed beacons. In this case, concrete is poured in such a way as to hide the tops of the lighthouses by a couple of mm. If necessary, remove excess concrete with a spatula or other level tool. To remove excess mortar, fix the rail perpendicular to the beacons and stretch it with a spatula, thus leveling the surface.