How to make a blind area near the house. Do-it-yourself blind area around the house is made very simply from concrete or paving slabs with and without insulation: Video
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Regardless of the purpose of the building, a blind area is required for it. Useful recommendations will help in answering the question: "How to make a blind area around the house with your own hands?" This is a useful building element, which is a strip of concrete mix that adjoins the structure around the entire perimeter of the house. Such a structure protects the foundation from soil displacement, from groundwater and precipitation. It is important to fill it up before the onset of cold weather, since the frozen soil puts a lot of pressure on the foundation.
High-quality concrete tape around the building looks very aesthetically pleasing and is a great addition to landscape design
Before carrying out installation on pouring, you need to select the optimal strip width. At the same time, the minimum size is 0.9 meters. This element can be up to 2.5 meters wide.
In addition, the water drainage tape is used as a walking path. It is worth calculating the size so that the concrete element extends beyond the borders of the cornices by 30 cm.
It is also important to choose the right slope of the strip away from the walls. In this case, the area near the wall will have a small height, and the edge of the tape will go level with the ground.
When deciding how to make a comfortable blind area around the house with your own hands, it is worth considering a rise in height of 16 mm by 1 meter. At the same time, you can walk on it, and the liquid will not accumulate.
Helpful information! During the winter cold, this option can turn into a skating rink.
Preparation: important steps
Before filling the blind area, preparatory work is performed. It is necessary to make a foundation. In this case, a concrete screed is performed:
- pegs are driven in at a certain distance from the wall, and the markings are made. Pull the cord over them;
- excavation is performed, while the soil layer is removed by 20-25 cm. The depth of the deepening should be the same everywhere;
- a layer of sand must be spilled with water and tamped several times;
Useful advice! The sand should have a homogeneous structure without rubble and broken bricks.
How to make a blind area around the house with your own hands: important stages of work
Most often, the trench that has been made is concreted using formwork. Along the entire contour of the concrete tape, special equipped recesses (grooves) are mounted for water outlet.
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How are expansion joints made?
At the junction of the wall and the protective concrete sheet, an expansion joint is made, the size of which varies in width from 1 to 2 cm. It is filled with sand and roofing material. You can also use a styrofoam bundle with a piece of plywood.
To simplify the laying of the blind area, you can mount the tape in separate blocks. For this, slats are used, which are installed across the formwork.
Useful advice! To prevent water from penetrating between the concrete and the batten, it is better to seal these areas with a sealant.
How is the formwork cast?
When deciding how to make a blind area around the house with your own hands, it is worth using concrete. The composition is prepared from one part of cement, part of sand and three parts of crushed stone. The mixture is poured in portions.
In this case, the end parts at the top of the lintels coincide with the surface of the blind area. The concrete should be leveled with a wide trowel. The mixture is compacted with an iron bar or vibrator. The reinforcement piece is immersed in concrete and rotated.
Punctures help eliminate bubbles. This makes the concrete denser. To give strength to concrete, dry cement should be scattered, which will absorb excess moisture. Then, using a metal trowel, the cement is rubbed well into the surface to a dark gray color.
The finished tape should be covered with burlap from the sun's rays. If there is no rain, then the material must be periodically wetted with concrete, otherwise it will not gain strength. A blind area can be created by a person who does not have construction skills.
Do-it-yourself blind area around the house: video and useful recommendations
A monolithic tape around the building helps to strengthen the waterproofing properties of the base and walls. Also, this part is distinguished by its functional properties, and also performs an aesthetic function. The width of the tape should be over a meter. This parameter depends on the overhang of the roof structure.
Do-it-yourself concrete blind area around the house: video and installation features
When determining how to make a blind area around the house with your own hands, you need to properly excavate the soil. It is imperative that all walls of the excavation be treated with a special compound that will help destroy weeds. If this is not done, then the weed will destroy the structure made.
A curb or removable formwork is laid out along the entire contour of the structure. Then the bedding material is produced and carefully compacted. Depending on the material to be used, the designs will differ in the way they are laid:
- laying stone or cobblestone. In this case, the height of the material should not be more than 10 cm. Installation is carried out on a laid out sand floor. If crushed stone is used, then the thickness will be less. The space between the cobblestones is covered with sand;
- if a blind area is performed around the house with your own hands from, then you do not need to lay an additional layer of fine gravel and sand. All voids between individual tiles are also covered with sand. To keep the tiles simple, you need to make a strip of such a size that you do not have to trim the tiles.
Application is the most profitable and optimal option for arranging the blind area. Since it has many advantages. This is the possibility of repairing the coating in parts and a long service life.
If the soil is not porous, then clay is used. If the soil is heaving, then a sand layer is also used together with clay.
Installation of any blind area consists of the following steps:
- a sand cushion is placed on the base of the soil. A layer of rubble is leveled on top;
- there is a deformation layer between the two surfaces at the junction. It will prevent cracking and deformation of the tape. Several layers of roofing material are mounted between the surface of the basement and the blind area;
The device of the blind area around the building is done immediately, as soon as the work on the completion of the exterior walls was completed, but before the finishing of the basement part was started. This is due to the fact that it is necessary to overlap the expansion joint between the walkway cover and the building wall so that water cannot get there due to the protruding surface of the basement.
As for the screw, deep columnar or pile types of foundation, in this case it is not even necessary to make a blind area, but for the most part it is done so that it serves as a footpath or as a decor for arranging a yard.
Design features of the protective coating
Such a coating must be created around the entire perimeter of the building, since it is required to protect the foundation from all sides. As for the norms and requirements that apply to it, they are all described in SNiP 2.02.01-83, which says that regardless of whether the blind area around the house will be performed with our own hands or with the involvement of specialists, its width on normal soil is not should be less than 60 cm, and on soils that tend to sink - from 100 cm.
In any case, the width of the covering should not protrude from the cut of the roof by at least 20 cm. The maximum width is not established by the regulations.
The hard coating should only be laid on a solid base that is at least 150 mm thick. It is very important to pay attention to the fact that the slope of the blind area from the building should not be less than 0.03%, taking into account the excess of the lower edge above the planning mark no more than 50 mm. As for storm water, it must be discharged into special trays or storm drains (storm sewers).
A good insulated blind area, which must fully fulfill all its functions, consists of 3 layers:
- Waterproof (top).
- Underlying (sand with crushed stone or gravel).
- Insulating (expanded polystyrene).
Sometimes experts use another layer, which is used as a geotextile, the main task of which is reliable waterproofing from groundwater. Groundwater can bring problems every spring, so the use of such a layer is quite relevant. Among other things, it will protect against weed germination.
Top layer materials
Before making a blind area around the house, you need to decide on the materials that will be best suited for these purposes. There are a large number of materials that differ in their capabilities.
- Among the most commonly used, economical and simple materials, clay is common. She is able to create a sufficient hydro-barrier. It is most often used in rural areas, but as for modern buildings, the use of clay has long been abandoned, since more efficient technologies have replaced it.
- A more modern and common option is a concrete pavement. Without investing a lot of money, such a blind area can be done very quickly, with your own hands. Concrete has a long service life and durability. Among other things, to improve its appearance, you can cover it with paving slabs or other covering.
- The blind area can be finished with paving slabs, which are laid on a mortar or cement-sand mixture. It is often used to create a uniform decorative style for the yard. The tiles are durable enough and will not cause any problems during installation.
- You can also use paving stones, which are also suitable for this purpose, if you lay them on a sandy pillow, previously tamping it. It has a pleasant appearance for the eye, but it stands several times higher than paving slabs and has some difficulties during installation. When using this material, it is imperative to perform a joint seal in order to completely seal the top layer.
- In order to enjoy the blind area for many years and not think about repairs, it is recommended to use a natural stone. But it is worth noting that such material can only be available to fairly wealthy people.
- As for asphalt, it is very rarely used due to the fact that it gives off an unpleasant odor in the summer heat and does not have a high level of strength if you do it yourself. And the purchase from the factory will cost much more than the concrete blind area around the house.
Along the entire perimeter of the blind area, it is necessary to lay trays to drain water. These trays are made of asbestos cement or ceramics. Not in the last place is a well-made drain. For some works, it is recommended to invite specialists if there is a lack of theoretical or practical knowledge.
How to do it yourself
To start working on the creation of a concrete version of the protective coating, it is initially necessary to prepare a certain list of materials and tools, which includes:
geotextiles, which, in principle, can be replaced with clay;
- Portland cement 500 or Portland cement 400;
- reinforcing mesh with a cell diameter of 10 by 10 cm;
- washed or river sand;
- processed board or bitumen to process it;
- crushed stone of fraction not more than 4 cm or gravel;
- expanded polystyrene plates.
Once all the material is prepared, you need to take care of the necessary tool for the job:
- a hammer;
- concrete mixer;
- hacksaw;
- rammer or, if possible, a vibrating plate;
- bricklayer's trowel;
- shovels: shovel and bayonet;
- rule for plaster;
- container for concrete;
- level.
To correctly make a blind area with your own hands, step-by-step instructions will help to avoid mistakes and unnecessary costs. The whole process begins with the fact that you need to carefully make the markup. The markings should be made around the entire perimeter of the building. Once this stage is over, you can remove 30 cm of soil and tamp the bottom.
The next step is to spread geotextiles on the tamped bottom or, if clay is used, then it must be tamped tightly by about 6 centimeters thick. On top of this, a sand mound with a thickness of 5 cm should be made, and this layer must also be tamped tightly. The sand acts as a protective layer so that the crushed stone does not damage the waterproofing layer.
Now is the time to put together the formwork from the boards along the edge of the trench. Some people use sheet material for these purposes in the absence of boards. It is imperative when preparing the formwork to make its height 5 cm higher than the expected level. Now is the time to start filling the layer of crushed stone with gravel, which must be tamped down to a thickness of 8 cm and sprinkled with sand on top. A lot of sand is not required, it is necessary so that during the pouring of the concrete mixture it does not penetrate into the voids between the rubble.
Before making the blind area, it is necessary to provide for the device of expansion joints 1-2 cm wide. This is necessary because in hot weather the concrete layer can expand, and at very low temperatures it can burst. This seam will prevent this situation. Such a seam is made using a waterproofing material 1-2 cm thick or roofing material.
Among other things, approximately every 100-200 cm at all corners of the house across the blind area, it is necessary to make pieces of boards up to 3 cm thick and install them. This is necessary to compensate for possible extensions.
Naturally, before installing such transverse battens, they must be carefully treated with a bitumen composition so that they do not rot. It is necessary to install such slats so that their upper edge is level with the concrete poured in the future.
Concrete layer
In order to maximize the strength of the concrete, it must be additionally reinforced with a metal mesh. The most optimal cell size is 100 × 100 mm. Some craftsmen use wire up to 8 mm in diameter for these purposes. In fact, it can also be used, but only in this case it is imperative to tie all the individual elements together.
Once all the preparatory work has been completed, you can start preparing the concrete mixture and start pouring it. You can purchase ready-made concrete of the M200-250 brand, but it should be understood that this will significantly increase the overall estimate.
Before pouring the blind area around the house with your own hands, you can prepare concrete in the ratio:
- gravel - 4 parts;
- sand - 2.5 parts;
- cement - 1 part.
It is best to add water to the concrete mixer last in small portions and knead until a homogeneous mass of medium consistency.
Filling the blind area is as follows. The process must be approached as responsibly as possible. The mixture is laid on top of the reinforcing mesh so that the slope of the blind area to the building is at least 3%, and the mesh should be slightly above ground level. Thus, we obtain a formula in which an increase in the level by 3 cm should be for every meter of width.
To remove air bubbles from the concrete solution, it is necessary to use the so-called bayonet. In order to level the surface as much as possible, it is necessary, using a construction trowel and plastering rule, to carefully compare the surface with a constant control of the slope angle, using a level.
To make the surface even more durable, you can use a special ironing technology. To do this, it is necessary to sprinkle an even layer of dry cement through a sieve on the surface of the wet mortar, which has not yet had time to set. If you do this without a sieve, then you will have to use a spatula and gently rub it in.
If the blind area is made in dry and hot weather, then the following steps must be performed. So that the concrete does not dry out, namely, it grabs, it is necessary to cover it with a wet cloth and pour water over it after certain periods. The first 3-4 days you cannot stand on it. Only after this time will its top grab, and it will be possible to step on the blind area without fear of damage.
Paving slabs
Before correctly making a blind area around the house from paving slabs, you must first make another base under it. This is done due to the fact that tiles do not have the same level of strength, unlike concrete.
The base must be very solid. The first layer of clay should be increased, after which a mixture of sand and cement will be laid, on top of which the tiles will be laid.
It should be noted right away that in the case of paving slabs, the trench should have a depth of 45 cm. Only in this case it will be possible to obtain a high level of stability. As a bottom layer, it is necessary to compact the clay so that its thickness reaches 30 cm. This will provide normal protection in the spring in the event of a rise in the water table. On top of this layer, a curb is installed along the edge of the trench, which should not be higher than the level of laying tiles along the edge of the blind area.
As the second layer, gravel or crushed stone is used, which must also be well compacted to a level of 10-15 cm thick. This layer should be flush with the ground. It is necessary to lay geotextiles on top of it so that no plant can germinate through it. Now you can start pouring a mixture of sand and cement, after which you can start laying the tiles themselves.
It is very important to follow the technology exactly.
Paving stones
What is a paving area? This is one of the best materials for this purpose. It looks great and is thicker than the previous material and better resistance to external influences. It is noteworthy that the paving stones, due to their properties, can be laid directly on the sand. The trench can have a depth of 15 cm. It is enough just to lay geotextiles, then put a curb and tamp the sand in such a way that it does not slightly reach the end of the trench. Now all you have to do is lay the material.
Attention! Despite all the simplicity of installation and good appearance, it is necessary to remember the high cost of paving stones.
After laying, it is necessary to give the masonry airtightness with the help of cement mortar, which must be placed in the joints between the stones. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the curb is not located above the upper level of the coverage.
Soft option
To learn how to properly make a soft blind area around the house, you first need to understand the term itself. This means crushed stone, pebbles, cobblestones, gravel and other materials, under which there is a layer of sand (sometimes clay is used), which are covered with plastic wrap.
Among all existing modern options, this is the most economical type of coating, but at the same time it is worth considering the low operational period, which does not exceed 5 years. As soon as this period has passed, you will need to repeat the procedure for laying soft or any other blind area again.
It is worth paying attention to the slope of clay and polyethylene. This point is important due to the fact that the drainage of water does not occur with the top coating, but directly with a layer of waterproofing.
Insulation scheme
It is very important to learn how to properly make a blind area around the house, to think about its insulation. This is especially true for regions with traditionally low temperatures and for almost the entire territory of Russia in winter. Thanks to the insulation, it will be possible not only to keep the foundation intact, but also to keep the warmth in the house.
For insulation, it is necessary to take high-quality material that does not rot, has a sufficient level of density, is hydrophobic and durable. Expanded polystyrene or polystyrene is best suited for these parameters.
Insulation work should be performed in 3 steps, which must be done during the creation of the blind area:
- On clay or a thin sand cushion, it is necessary to lay waterproofing or roofing material in such a way that part of the roll comes out onto the side walls.
- The second step is to insulate the basement wall. To do this, it is necessary to fix thermal insulation on it. When fixing the sheets, it is necessary to connect them with grooves as tightly as possible, and when this is impossible, then it is required to seal them using polyurethane foam.
- As for the horizontal layer, it must be laid directly on the lowest layer. To save money in this case without losing quality, you can use a layer of polystyrene, and fix polystyrene foam on top of it. When laying, it is necessary to ensure that the seams between the layers do not coincide vertically.
On the Internet, you can find tips that with this type of insulation, expanded clay can be used instead of crushed stone, but this can do even more harm. The problem is that empty cavities remain in the bulk expanded clay, where after a while moisture will begin to appear, which will negatively affect the thermal insulation properties.
Operation and repair of the blind area
Now you know what the blind area around the house is for, why it is very important to properly care for and, if necessary, repair it. Over time, chips or cracks may appear on the concrete surface. Often this situation arises due to subsidence of the soil, with the wrong selection of expansion joints or the use of materials of poor quality.
To repair such cracks, it is necessary to use sand, asbestos and a bitumen primer, which are mixed into a homogeneous mixture, but before that it is necessary to slightly enlarge the crack and clean it from dust using the pressure of water. After it dries out, you need to pour the mixture inside.
If the damage is too large, then it is necessary to increase it even more so that it can be filled with a new portion of concrete. If necessary, damage can even be additionally reinforced with a rod or wire. After the place dries out, it must be treated with a primer.
The blind area of the house, in comparison with its foundation, has an incomparably lower cost. Making a good blind area is much easier than building a foundation. But all of the above does not mean that attention to this important detail should also be much less, which, alas, often happens. The blind area, in comparison with the entire structure of the house, may seem like a small cog, but the "health" and long service life of the entire structure strongly depend on it.
In the article, we are going to consider in detail how to make a blind area around the house, and how to do it correctly, and also consider different options and indicate in which cases it is advisable to use them. Recommended building materials that should be used to create a good blind area at home will be reviewed.
What is a blind area and what is it for?
It is customary to call a blind area a strip of waterproof coating that encircles the entire house along the perimeter. Most often, we are accustomed to observing blind areas made of concrete or asphalt, however, these two materials are not limited to everything. The main task of the classic blind area is to prevent atmospheric water from entering the foundation structure and into the soils located near it. Why is this done?
- Firstly, water that gets to the structure of the foundation sole can soak the soil near it and, if it is shallow, this can lead to freezing and the appearance of heaving forces. Particularly dangerous are the so-called heaving soils, which include clay and loamy. The forces of frost heaving are simply enormous, they are trying to squeeze the house out of the ground. If they are unevenly distributed over the foundation, then this can lead to cracks and even destruction of the house.
- Secondly, the forces of frost heaving act not only on the sole, but also on the side structures of the foundation. In construction science, such forces are called tangential heaving. According to experts, a load of 5-7 tons can fall on 1 m² of the wall. Not every structure can withstand this. The blind area is designed to minimize water ingress from above.
- Thirdly, waterlogged soil with poor waterproofing of the foundation can provoke the ingress of water into the premises of the basement floor. Even good waterproofing does not always protect against leaks or high humidity. After all, everyone knows the proverb: "Water will always find a hole." And here the blind area also plays a role, reducing the moisture content of the soil adjacent to the foundation.
- And, finally, a poorly made blind area will provoke its own destruction, which will adversely affect its protective and decorative qualities.
The creation of a high-quality blind area of the house is included in the complex of measures for waterproofing the foundation and its drainage - wall or ring. By itself, she is "not a warrior in the field" and will be able to fulfill her main protective purpose only together with other elements. Why do you need a blind area at home?
- As noted earlier, the blind area prevents the penetration of atmospheric water to the foundation of the building. Water that gets on the blind area should drain from it and enter the surface drainage system.
- The blind area, provided that it is insulated, prevents the soil from freezing under it and therefore reduces or eliminates the occurrence of frost heaving forces. This function works best in conjunction with foundation insulation. In the countries of northern Europe, the insulation of foundations and the blind area have long been mandatory measures in the construction of houses.
- The blind area can serve as a sidewalk along which people move.
- The blind area performs a decorative function. thanks to her, any house in combination with the decoration of the walls and basement has a harmonious and complete look. We can say that the blind area is one of the important elements of landscape design.
Almost all houses and buildings need a blind area. For a strip, slab, monolithic strip foundation, it is simply necessary. If the house is erected on a pile or, then the blind area will perform only a decorative function.
What are the blind areas
Let's consider what types of blind area exist, so that there is an "opportunity" to try on this or that option to your conditions and choose the most suitable one.
Clay blind areas
This type of blind area is rooted in the distant past. It was this material that our distant ancestors used in order to protect the foundation of their house from moisture. And, despite the fact that this method of creating a blind area may seem archaic, which is high time to be sent “to the dustbin of history”, it may well be applied to modern buildings. Everyone knows the properties of clay - its plasticity, fire resistance and the main quality - water resistance. This material is the best natural waterproofing agent. Almost all underground sources of artesian water are enclosed precisely between the clay layers. Another useful property of clay is that no plants can grow on it. Of course, if the clay has a certain degree of its purity.
Such a blind area is made very easily. The fertile soil layer is removed to a given width and depth, and then clay is poured and compacted. Better to use pure quarry clay. The profile of the blind area is given a slope in the direction from the wall to its edge, and then the clay is reinforced with gravel or crushed stone, which must be imprinted into its layer. An interesting composite coating is formed. Clay provides reliable waterproofing and plasticity, while crushed stone or gravel provides the necessary rigidity of the blind area and prevents water erosion. Clay blind area, together with crushed stone or gravel, looks good and can even become an element of home decor, especially a wooden one. The clay pavement will never crack, it is easy to repair. She can serve for tens of years. Surely many have met unpaved roads on clay soils, which are reinforced with stones. They have already served a lot and will serve a lot more. Even trucks in rainy weather "trample" on such roads a track.
A significant limitation of the widespread distribution of clay blind areas is their main drawback - with direct, prolonged and strong exposure to water, the clay will still be gradually washed out. Therefore, in most cases, more modern materials are used.
Sand prices
Concrete blind areas
This type of blind area is the most common. And this is not in vain. one of the most common materials and blind areas from it have a set of advantages:
- Correctly prepared and placed concrete has high mechanical strength
- Concrete is not afraid of exposure to water and practically does not let it through, and treated with various hydrophobic coatings it becomes an ideal waterproofing barrier.
- Concrete blind areas have a long service life - at least 25 years, subject to technology compliance.
- It is quite possible to make concrete blind areas on your own; this does not require the services of special construction equipment.
- Concrete blind areas can be decorated with pebbles, gravel, various natural stones.
Concrete blind areas, however, are not without drawbacks:
- Along with high mechanical strength, concrete blind areas are fragile. With the occurrence of heaving forces of different magnitude in different parts of the blind area, cracks may appear. This problem is solved by reinforcement, which makes the blind area much more expensive.
- Bare concrete has an unpresentable appearance, a beautiful house on a harmonious natural landscape will only spoil the concrete blind area.
- The concrete blind area is very difficult to dismantle, it is difficult to local repair, the need for which sooner or later arises.
The thickness of the concrete blind area in its thinnest part should be at least 5 cm, but, given that it is constantly under the influence of natural forces, it is better to do it at least 7 cm.Naturally, the concrete blind area is given a slope of 3-10 ° in the direction from walls to its edge. The width should be at least 20-30 cm greater than the overhang of the eaves, but in no case less than 60 cm.
Cement prices
The blind area should encircle the entire house around the perimeter and not have a rigid connection with the walls. The fact is that with seasonal movements of the soil, the structures of the house and the blind area will behave differently and the presence of a rigid connection will lead to the appearance of cracks. In addition, different materials have different coefficients of thermal expansion from each other. Therefore, they do the so-called expansion or expansion joint , which, on the one hand, provides the necessary seal to prevent water penetration, and on the other hand, allows mutual movement of the house and the blind area. Expansion joints have long been made from tarred boards, but now various synthetic materials can be used. Very often expansion joints are made of double-folded roofing material or foamed polyethylene. There are also special damping tapes for screeds or underfloor heating that can also be used for an expansion joint between the blind area and the basement of the house.
In the concrete tape, the blind area is also necessarily arranged with expansion joints. They are made in the corners, and then every 1.5-2.5 meters. Oiled or tarred edged boards with a thickness of 20 mm, strips of laminated plywood or OSB are used as seams. When filling the blind area, they serve as beacons for its leveling and later, after setting, they can be removed and filled with polyurethane-based sealants or left in place.
Asphalt and asphalt concrete blind areas
Such blind areas are also widespread enough, but mainly not in residential construction, but in industrial or commercial facilities. Compared to concrete, asphalt is more plastic, the probability of cracking on it is negligible. Asphalt blind areas are less material-intensive, since 3-4 cm is enough to create a durable and water-resistant coating. They are strong enough and can last for decades.
However, asphalt blind areas were widely used only in the construction of non-residential buildings. When heated by the sun's rays, the asphalt can soften and the hydrocarbons that make up the bitumen, which is a binder for this type of coating, begin to evaporate from it. In addition, asphalt paving requires the use of special road technology.
Blind areas from paving stones or paving slabs
This type of blind area will be most preferable if the house is planned to harmoniously fit into the surrounding landscape. A cozy and beautiful garden with paving paths, finished with natural stone or its imitation, the basement will be in perfect harmony with the blind areas of paving stones or paving slabs. Natural stone can also be attributed to the same category, since there are no big differences from the point of view of the technology of base preparation and laying. Natural stone, however, requires high qualifications of the master.
What are the advantages of paving stones or paving slabs?
- As noted earlier, this is an attractive appearance.
- Correctly laid high-quality paving stones or paving slabs have a long service life. According to the assurances of manufacturers - at least 20 years.
- Quality paving stones have good frost resistance.
- Coverings made of paving stones or paving slabs made by vibrocompression (namely, these are recommended for blind areas or paths), in wet weather or in the cold season, they are not as slippery as concrete, asphalt or made of vibro-slabs.
Vibro-compressed paving stones are an excellent material for the blind area - Each paving stone is laid separately on the base, therefore cracking is unusual for such a coating.
- Covers made of paving stones or paving slabs are distinguished by their environmental friendliness.
- A paving area can also serve as a path for people to walk on.
- High strength and wear resistance.
- Pavement blind areas can be repaired locally; complete dismantling is not required.
- or paving slabs can be laid by yourself. This does not require the use of special construction equipment.
The main disadvantage of the paving stone is its relatively high cost compared to the concrete "classic". There is a good way out of this situation - if they only walk along the blind area, then it can be paved with paving slabs, which are both thinner and cheaper than paving stones. Platforms and paths that will be subjected to increased loads can already be paved with paving stones in harmony with the blind area. Most manufacturers of vibro-pressed paving slabs or paving stones offer products of various thicknesses. Once laid, it is no longer possible to tell where the stones are thicker and where they are thinner. The device of a blind area made of paving stones or paving slabs is shown in the figure.
Paving stone prices
paving stones
Paving stones or paving slabs have another important feature, which can manifest itself both in good form and in the opposite way. Such coatings are laid on a sandy base and have gaps between adjacent elements. When water gets into the blind area from the paving stones, most of it will be taken by storm water inlets, taking into account the mandatory slope, flow down the gutters and surfaces into the water intake trays of the surface drainage system. But some part will still be able to seep between the paving stones into the underlying layers. Now let's look at how this feature can manifest itself in a good and bad way.
- First, about the good. If water seeps through the seams, then such a coating will be dry, puddles will not stagnate on it. Of course, this is very useful for paths where the surface is horizontal, but the blind areas have a slope and most of them will still drain into the water intake trays. But, all the same, a part will fall into the underlying preparation.
- Now about not very good possible manifestations. Let's say the house is built on heavy clay soils and the blind area of paving stones or paving slabs is made correctly. Under it there are both crushed stone and sandy layers, which can take a certain amount of water. When the snow melts, a situation may arise when the water will completely saturate both the sand and gravel and there will simply be nowhere for it to go, since on one side there is a foundation wall with good waterproofing, and on the bottom and side there are heavy clay soils. If the thaw is replaced by severe frosts, which often happens in the climatic zones of Russia, then the water in the crushed stone and sand layer will freeze and, accordingly, expand in volume. The blind area can collapse very quickly in such conditions. Even after one season of operation.
On thematic forums dedicated to construction, a lot of questions are raised about paving stones and paving slabs in general and blind areas from them in particular. Developers are sometimes simply bewildered that a good and impeccably laid paving area begins to swell after the first winter experienced. And this is most often due to the fact that crushed stone and sand, when the snow melts, are saturated with water, which simply has nowhere to go because of the clay soils around. The solution to this problem is very simple, but not free:
- The first solution to the problem is drainage. In the case of blind areas, this is a high-quality wall deep drainage, as well as surface point and linear. You can read more about drainage in our portal. Preference should be given to drainage with a wall relief geomembrane. Then the water, getting into the gravel and sand, will not linger in them, but will flow down, where it will be "picked up" and removed by the drainage system.
- The second solution to the problem is the insulation of the foundation. This measure will avoid soil freezing in the area of the foundation and blind area. Materials and technology are described in our portal.
The blind area around the house, in addition to vibropressed concrete paving stones, can also be made of more expensive natural materials.
- It can be a natural “wild” stone, which owes its irregular shape to this name.
- Natural chipped, chipped-sawn or full-sawn granite paving stones are also used as the top layer of the blind area. This is a very worthy option, but at a cost, it is very immodest.
- A blind area made of clinker paving stones in combination with a plinth finish with clinker tiles not only looks rich, but also has a very long service life. This option is no less modest than a blind area made of granite paving stones.
We will consider in detail how to make a blind area from paving stones or paving slabs in one of the following sections of our article.
Soft blind areas
It may seem that there is some kind of catch hidden in the name itself. We are subconsciously accustomed to perceiving blind areas as a rigid and reliable structure, and the word “soft” seems inappropriate. However, this is far from the case. Such blind areas have been used for a very long time and successfully. For many decades, soft blind areas have served without repair, and in such climatic zones where they are affected in different seasons by water and snow, and severe frosts and heat.
Some varieties of soft blind areas are also called Finnish, thanks to the country where they are widespread. It is difficult to convict the inhabitants of Finland of stupidity and impracticality, they live in harsher climatic conditions than most regions of Russia, they build a lot of good and comfortable houses. It is not for nothing that Finnish builders are considered one of the best in the world. It is possible that it makes sense for us to learn from the Finns some experience.
As noted earlier, the blind area should solve two main tasks. The first is to prevent water from entering the structure of the foundation and the soil near it, and the second is to preserve the integrity of the blind area itself in order to keep it presentable and solve the first problem. That is, the integrity of the blind area is one of the main tasks and a person is forced to constantly fight for this by reinforcing, creating expansion joints, drainage and other measures. The wise Finns decided to stop fighting and make the blind area soft. One of the options for implementing this approach is shown in the figure.
The main thing in the construction of soft blind areas is a very interesting approach - you do not have to bother too much about the integrity, solidity and waterproofness of the structure of the upper decorative layer, but it is better to focus on how to remove the water that has already penetrated through it. That is, the "most interesting", those elements that have exactly a protective function, in these types of blind area are out of sight. If water penetrates through the upper layer, then it is better not to interfere with it - let it seep into your health and the faster the better. But then the water is already "waiting" for the drainage pipe, which also "gladly" accepts it and carries it away from the foundation to the wells.
The water-permeable layer on which the blind area and the drainage pipe are located are reliably cut off from other soils by any waterproofing material. Roofing material or other materials, for example, PVC films for swimming pools, can act as it.
The best result for waterproofing is given by the so-called PVP membranes (profiled waterproof polyethylene). They are made of high density polyethylene (HPDE), which is completely inert to all substances that may be found in the soil. According to official documents - test reports, the service life of the PVP membrane declared by the manufacturers is at least 60 years, but in reality it will be even longer if the installation is done correctly. This means that you will not have to do waterproofing again in your entire long and happy life. Basically, membrane longevity is roughly equal to the average home life.
PVP membranes have irregularities on their surface in the form of truncated cones, 8 mm high. Thanks to these protrusions, water easily collects on the surface and flows off under the influence of gravity. Therefore, the membrane in a soft blind area is always laid with a slope in the direction of the drainage pipe. For laying in the ground, it is better to use a composite geomembrane, consisting of two bonded layers. The first layer is the PVP membrane itself, and the second is a geotextile fabric that freely passes water and does not allow the surrounding soil to fill all the space between the relief protrusions.
For waterproofing the blind area, a profiled geomembrane fastened to a geotextile is best suited In soft blind areas, there may be different finishing layers, that is, those that are visible from the outside.
- The blind area can be covered with crushed stone or gravel, which will give it a natural natural look. Such blind areas will always be in harmony with the surrounding landscape.
- Colored decorative or gravel is now widely used. With their help, you can realize the most daring design ideas. Such blind areas look, and other elements of the landscape, very good.
- The outer layer of the soft blind area can generally be made from fertile soil on which to plant a lawn. The impression will be created that there is no blind area, although we already know that the main thing is underground. Houses made of logs or standing in the middle of emerald green lawns look simply amazing.
Soft blind areas are more and more used in individual housing construction in Russia. And this is quite justified, because their advantages are obvious:
- The soft blind area is not afraid of seasonal ground movements, which have always been, are and will be in any, even flawless design. After freezing and thawing, and, accordingly, movements, the blind area returns to its place. Accordingly, there is no need to equip expansion joints.
- A soft blind area does not have to be done under a slope, since water drainage occurs under it. This allows them to be used as a pedestrian zone. Even a blind area with an upper layer of a lawn can be a pedestrian zone if it is well drained and reinforced, for example, with geogrids.
Lawn reinforced with geogrid - The soft blind area is easy to repair in case of local damage, as well as it is easy to completely dismantle.
- The soft blind area has an attractive appearance that is in harmony with nature. The use of colored decorative crushed stone or gravel allows you to create unique compositions. And also on such a blind area, you can plant various plants: lawn grass or various flowers and small shrubs. For this, however, you will have to take special measures.
- A soft blind area is cheaper than concrete or pavement, the process of creating it is less laborious.
The disadvantages of soft blind areas include:
- When constructing a soft blind area, special attention should be paid to the preparation of the base, waterproofing the foundation and the drainage system. If the concrete blind area is guaranteed to "throw" water from the foundation to its width even with a poor drainage system, then the soft one under the same conditions may not cope with the incoming water.
- Crushed stone or gravel cover of a soft blind area is more difficult to clean from dust and debris than concrete or paving stones.
- Various weeds can grow through the gravel, which will require periodic removal.
- The blind area from the lawn also requires constant maintenance.
In some sources, blind areas made of paving stones or paving slabs are classified as soft, arguing such a choice by the fact that such structures do not have a rigid base. We deliberately do not do this for two reasons:
- A blind area made of or paving slabs can hardly be called soft even by tactile sensations.
- Very often, to increase the reliability of a blind area made of paving stones or paving slabs, it is made on a concrete base, on which a thin (5-7 cm) layer of pavement from a cement-sand mixture is poured. Clinker tiles or paving stones are laid only on a concrete base using special adhesive mixtures. It is simply impossible to call such blind areas soft.
In order to avoid unnecessary disputes about the belonging of a particular type of structure to soft or hard, we consider in the article blind areas made of paving stones or paving slabs in a separate category. It will be much easier that way.
Is it necessary to insulate the blind area?
In the recent past, some 20-30 years ago, during the construction of houses in our country, such questions did not arise at all. The foundation could be insulated with expanded clay poured into the sinuses, and the blind area was not separately insulated at all. The foundation was always laid below the level of soil freezing. And this was one of the few measures to protect the foundation from seasonal soil movements on heaving soils. However, construction science and technologies did not stand still, along with them new materials appeared. As a result, in the global construction practice, they came to one conclusion in order to reduce the negative impact of frost heaving forces on the foundation, especially on heaving soils - it must be insulated. In addition, this allows to reduce the depth of the foundation sole in the ground, which significantly reduces the cost of it. And if the foundation itself is insulated, then the blind area is also mandatory. Only this way and not otherwise! Here are the main reasons why it is necessary to insulate the foundation and blind area.
- If the house has a heated basement floor, then insulation of the basement and blind area is required. This, firstly, will reduce heat loss, and secondly, it will prevent the soil from freezing, which will reduce the forces of heaving. In a correctly calculated foundation and its insulation, freezing of the soil can be avoided.
- If the house has a shallow foundation, then insulation of both the foundation and the blind area is required. The shallow-buried slab foundations of the USHP type (insulated Swedish plate), which are now gaining popularity, are necessarily insulated from all sides, including the bottom.
- Thermal insulation of the blind area still makes sense so that the melt water that gets into the crushed stone and sandy layers of the substrate does not freeze when the temperature drops, but quietly goes into the drainage pipes.
Insulation of the blind area does not need to be done only in two cases:
- When a house is being built on a pile foundation. But then, in principle, no blind area is needed.
- When the house has a spongy, non-insulated foundation and does not have a basement. In this case, the insulation of the blind area is just a senseless burying of insulation into the ground.
As a heater, completely different materials are offered, but in order to save readers from the torment of choice, we offer only the best in terms of price and quality. This is extruded (extrusion) expanded polystyrene - EPS. Why is it recommended to use this particular material?
- Firstly, EPPS has a low thermal conductivity (0.029-0.032 W / (m * K °), which, in principle, explains its use as a heater.
- Secondly, EPS has a high mechanical strength. Compressive strength at a deformation of no more than 10% is not less than 0.25-0.5 N / mm². That's a lot. The foundations of houses are erected on this insulation.
- Thirdly, EPS has a low density. One cubic meter of this material has a mass of 38 to 45 kg.
- Fourthly, EPPS has extremely low water absorption (no more than 0.2-0.4%) and vapor permeability (0.013 Mg / (m * h * Pa)), which is very useful when located in the ground.
- Fifth, EPPS is very easy to process and install. A minimum set of tools is required.
- Sixth, EPS is durable. Its service life in soil is at least 30-50 years.
- Seventh, EPPS under normal operating conditions does not emit any harmful substances, does not harm either living beings or nature.
- Finally, EPS is reasonably priced. The presence on the market of a large number of this insulation from different manufacturers plays into the hands of us - consumers.
The world's most popular insulation material is extruded polystyrene foam The thickness of the insulation of the blind area is calculated, but in no case should it be less than 5 cm.
As an example, consider in detail the processes of creating three types of blind area: reinforced concrete, from paving stones and soft.
Do-it-yourself concrete blind area
Consider the process of creating a concrete insulated blind area around the house. At the end of this section, a calculator will be offered that, along the perimeter of the house, its configuration and the size of the blind area, will help to calculate the volume of concrete required for laying.
Let's say right away that the number of options for implementing a concrete blind area using various materials and technologies is endless. It is simply impossible to describe all of them not only within the framework of one article, but even in a multivolume edition. We will describe one of many, but one that has been implemented at a large number of objects and has been successfully operated for a long enough time to say that such a design is justified. For convenience, we present the main stages of the process of creating a concrete blind area in the form of a table.
| Image | Process description |
|---|---|
 | Work should be carried out only during the warm season. First, the marking of the blind area is done. It should be at least 20-30 cm wide than the overhang of the eaves. The smallest height is 7 cm, the slope is 3-10 °. At first, it is indicated with a cord stretched along the level between the stakes driven into the ground by the outer edge of the blind area. If a curb and drainage trays of the surface drainage system are installed, then their width is also taken into account, since the soil must also be developed for them. The horizontal line of the cord is checked with a spirit level or a laser level. |
 | On the wall of the basement, the upper level of the junction of the blind area is marked. For this, marks are made in one place at a convenient height (1-1.5 m), and then they are transferred to other places using a laser level or spirit level. Further, the horizontal is moved down with a plumb line and a tape measure. The abutment line can be drawn with a pencil or marker, but it is most convenient to "beat off" it with a paint cord. |
 | On the marked base, the soil is removed to a depth of at least 30 cm. The main thing is to remove the entire fertile layer and "get" to a solid, reliable foundation on which the blind area will lie. If necessary, the soil is taken out to a great depth. It is imperative to get rid of the roots of all plants and to prevent their growth in the future, you can treat the soil with herbicides. The trench bottom profile is sloped towards the outer edge of the blind area. |
 | At the bottom of the trench, an underlying layer of quarry "oily" clay can be poured, which is then rammed. This layer is also biased. If there are clay or loamy soils on the site, then they only manage by tamping the bottom of the trench. |
 | On the outer edge of the future blind area, a formwork of edged boards is installed, which are fixed with wooden pegs or pieces of reinforcement driven into the ground. The upper edge of the formwork is set along the previously stretched cord and checked with a level. |
 | At the bottom of the trench, a non-woven geotextile thermally bonded fabric with a density of at least 150 g / m² is lined, which must completely cover the bottom and have at least 30 cm overhangs to the basement wall and the edge of the trench. Geotextiles are needed to separate dissimilar soils. |
 | Layers of coarse construction sand with a thickness of at least 20 cm are poured onto the geotextile layer. The sand is leveled with a rake, spilled with water and rammed for the first time. It is preferable to use a mechanized ramming method using a vibrating plate. |
 | In hard-to-reach places where the vibrating plate cannot pass, use a manual rammer. After the first ramming, sand is poured in the right places and rammed again. The process of sprinkling with water and tamping continues until there is an even and dense base of sand, on which there are practically no traces when walking. |
 | If the elements of the surface drainage system are installed - storm inlets and sewer pipes from them, then holes and trenches are dug out in the already compacted sand for them. In this case, the level of the future blind area must be taken into account - the storm water inlet must be installed at its level, taking into account the slope. It must be installed on a concrete solution with a layer of at least 5 cm. Sewer pipes must also be laid with a slope of at least 2 cm per 1 running meter of the pipe. |
 | Trenches with pipes and installation pits of storm water inlets are covered with sand, which is then rammed. In places where sewer pipes pass and near storm water inlets, this can only be done carefully and manually. |
 | An EPS insulation 5 cm thick is laid on a layer of compacted sand. If the upper part of the basement was not insulated, then this can be done simultaneously with the blind area. Insulation plates are laid on a compacted sandy base. If necessary, they can be easily trimmed with a construction knife. The slabs must lie firmly on the base. If necessary, when laying them in the right places, sand is poured. |
 | After installation, the joints between the boards are filled with polyurethane foam. |
 | An expansion joint is formed at the junction of the blind area to the plinth. This can be done with roofing felt, foamed polyethylene, and special self-adhesive tape for underfloor heating seams glued to the wall twice and glued to the wall. The seam should protrude 5-10 cm beyond the upper edge of the future blind area. If the blind area is adjacent to expanded polystyrene, which insulates the basement, then there is no need for additional materials. |
 | A metal reinforcing mesh made of wire with a diameter of 4 mm with a cell size of 100 * 100 mm is laid on the layer of insulation. In the right places, the mesh is trimmed. The edge of the mesh should be 5 cm from the end of the blind area. If you need to lay more than one mesh, then an overlap is made by one cell, and then the mesh is fastened with knitting wire. |
 | The reinforcing mesh should be in the concrete layer in its lower part at a distance of 3-4 cm from the insulation. To install the mesh at the desired height, it is best to use special reinforcement clamps, which have different heights and are designed for different surfaces. To install the reinforcement mesh, it is better to use clamps for loose surfaces. Before placing the concrete, all parts of the surface drainage system are covered with plastic wrap. |
 | Beacons are made from edged boards 20 mm thick, strips of OSB-boards or thin film-faced plywood, which will simultaneously serve as expansion (expansion) seams in the blind area. Sections of the required size are cut from them, which are attached with one end to the plinth at the previously indicated level, and the other to the formwork. The upper edge of the lighthouses should coincide with the surface of the future blind area, and the lower one should be tightly pressed against the insulation plates. Lighthouses are placed in the corners, as well as after 1.5-2.5 m along the entire length of the blind area. A distance of 2 m is considered optimal. |
 | To fill the blind area, concrete of the M250-M300 brand is used, but not lower. You can read more about the recipe and preparation of concrete of the required grade in the required quantity in our portal. The volume required for the blind area can be calculated using the calculator at the end of this chapter. |
 | To improve the properties of concrete during its preparation, it is recommended to use plasticizers, as well as add polypropylene or basalt fiber. |
 | It is better to mix concrete with a concrete mixer or a mixer - these mixes are of better quality than hand-mixed ones. |
 | Concrete is laid gradually, in sections between the beacons. The concrete is first laid on the surface, then spread with a trowel or shovel, and then leveled with an aluminum rule along the beacons. After laying in one area between the beacons, they move to another. |
 | After 1-2 hours after laying, it is necessary to make the blind area iron. To do this, a thin layer of dry cement - about 2 mm - is poured through a sieve onto the upper surface of the concrete. Then dry cement is rubbed into the surface of the blind area with a hand-made polyurethane float. Walking on the blind area is possible only after 48 hours. |
 | For high-quality maturation of concrete, it is necessary to moisten its surface with water every day, and then cover it with plastic wrap or a damp dense cloth. This operation should be done within 10-14 days. |
 | After the concrete has completely hardened - after 28 days, the formwork is dismantled. The blind area is ready. |
In the future, the blind area can be equipped with a curbstone, a storm sewer can be made along the edges - to install drainage trays and sand traps. How to do this is described in detail in an article on this topic on our portal.
Video: Concrete blind area device
Calculator for calculating the required volume of concrete for the blind area
We provide readers of our portal with the opportunity to independently calculate the amount of concrete required for the blind area. The initial data for the calculation are the geometric dimensions of the blind area: its height at the wall, height at the end, width. And also for calculations, you need to know the perimeter of the house: the sum of the lengths of all its sides. This calculator calculates the volume only for houses with a rectangular configuration, if there are any rounding of the foundation, then this calculator cannot be used or it will be possible to calculate the volume only on straight sections.
The calculations also take into account the configuration of the house, namely how many external or internal corners it has. If you need to calculate the volume of concrete for a straight section, then you must indicate that the number of external and internal corners is zero.
The blind area around the house is a wide "tape" with a hard or loose covering. But this is only the visible part of a rather complex structure. Many people perceive the blind area of the house as a kind of path along the wall, and although such use may be included in the list of functions, the main purpose of the structure is different.
Blind area around the house from paving slabs Source udachnyi.ru
Why do you need a blind area
Among the regulatory documents, there is no separate standard, SNiP or set of rules on how to make a blind area around the house correctly. There are several documents defining its purpose, requirements for the width and angle of the slope, interaction with other elements of atmospheric water drainage from the site on which the building stands.
According to the regulations, there must be a waterproof blind area around the building, which is created as part of the mandatory waterproof measures against local soil soaking in the basement area of the house.
That is, it is about protecting the soil, not the foundation. To protect the materials of the base itself, waterproofing of the foundation is done, because in addition to atmospheric waters, there are also ground waters, which rise high in the rainy season and during snow melting (the so-called top water).
And the land must be protected from getting wet, because under the influence of moisture, many types of soils (clay, loam) lose some of their bearing properties and simply cannot withstand the design load from the building. To prevent soil erosion and arrange a blind area, which, however, also protects the foundation in parallel, removing part of the load from the waterproofing layer, which protects the concrete base of the house from getting wet.
In addition, the blind area around the house is an element of the architectural appearance of the building and part of the landscape of the site. There are quite a few ready-made design solutions that allow you to disguise the blind area, and when using a hard surface, use it as a path.
A beautiful blind area, turning into a walkway, as part of landscape design Source stroitambov.ru
Blind area requirement
There are no requirements in any regulatory document that would associate the dimensions of the blind area with the overhang of the roof. Moreover, there are no requirements for exceeding the width of the blind area by 20-30 cm in relation to the projection of the eaves removal. When building a blind area around a house made of concrete with your own hands, you do not need to be guided by these numbers.
The regulations provide only two minimum widths. And they depend on the soil:
on sandy ones - from 70 cm;
on clayey - from 100 cm.
This is exactly what is indicated in the manual on construction operational control schemes for supervision services.
With an unorganized drain, the side overhangs of the roof of houses up to two floors should be less than 60 cm.If the house is on sandy soil, then the difference in the width of the blind area and the size of the roof overhang may be equal to 10 cm, and not contradict the requirements of the standards.
That is, it turns out that the parameter 20-30 cm is just a statement of the real ratio of the two sizes for most cases. But not for everyone.
Video description
Clearly about the requirements for the blind area of the house in the video:
If the soils are subsiding, depending on their type, the standards impose other requirements for the width:
Type I - more than 1.5 m;
Type II - more than 2 m.
And in any case, the blind area should be 40 cm wider than the cavity of the pit.
The slope angle can be in the range of 1-10%, but in the case of subsiding soils, the minimum angle is 3 °, which in terms of conversion is 5.2%.
The rise of the outer edge of the blind area above the site should be more than 5 cm.
Varieties of blind area
Before you correctly make a blind area around the house with your own hands or order its construction, you need to decide on the variety. There are three topcoat options:
Hard cover. It is a monolithic tape made of concrete or asphalt concrete. In the first case, creating a blind area with your own hands, mandatory reinforcement is carried out, in the second it is not required, due to the resistance of the asphalt concrete to bending loads.
The arrangement of the base and the filling of the blind area around the house is carried out using the same technology as for the paths, but taking into account the fulfillment of the mandatory requirement for a slope from the basement.
Protection against water comes from the waterproofness of both types of concrete. Therefore, it is important that there are no cracks or breaks in the coating on the surface. The second feature is that a gap is required between the blind area and the plinth to compensate for the thermal expansion of the monolithic coating.
Concrete blind area with expansion gap at the base, filled with sealant Source stroyobzor.info
Semi-rigid coating. They are made from paving slabs, clinker bricks or paving stones. The device and method of laying is carried out by analogy with sidewalks and platforms made of these materials with the obligatory creation of a waterproofing layer as part of the blind area:
waterproof geomembrane, when laid on a dry sand-cement mixture;
concrete monolithic base.
Semi-rigid clinker brick coating Source manesu.com
Soft cover. The classic option is the arrangement of the upper layer of a compacted layer of dense (waterproof) clay. Many people know how to make a blind area of this type: it was done before around village houses, and even now such a solution is periodically used as an "economy option" around small country houses, but with a top layer of decorative (colored) gravel. To improve waterproofing, a waterproof film can be placed between the clay and the rubble. You need to understand that the blind area is not just a decor, you should not save a lot on it.
Crushed stone as an economy option Source s-stroit.ru
Now a new type of soft blind area around the house based on a profiled membrane is gaining popularity. The general order of work here is as follows:
The membrane is laid in a trench with a depth of 25-30 cm.
The bottom of the trench is rammed with a slope from the foundation.
On top of the membrane, a layer of filtering geotextile is rolled out with an approach to the wall of the base of the house.
Then a drainage layer of rubble and sand is poured, and on top of it is fertile soil, which is sown with lawn grass or ornamental plants are planted.
This blind area is also called hidden. This is a beautiful solution, but with a significant drawback - it is not recommended to walk on a soft surface. However, you can always additionally organize a path.
Hidden blind area with ornamental plants Source pinterest.com
Common mistakes when creating a blind area
Errors can be at any stage. Therefore, it is very important to know how to properly fill the blind area around the house. But even with the technology, you need to be careful.
For example, insufficiently compacted soil backfill results in "unplanned" shrinkage and destruction of the waterproofing layer or rigid coating. The same consequences can occur if, due to the negligence of the workers, construction waste gets into the backfill.
A transverse crack in the blind area as a result of an error Source stroimdom.com.ua
At the stage of compaction of the bottom of the "trough" it is necessary to observe the level of the bottom of the pit and its slope. This is one of the important conditions for how to properly make a blind area around the house. The unevenness of the bottom leads to an uneven thickness of the crushed stone layer, a difference in its bearing properties in different areas, which can be the reason for the appearance of cracks in concrete. And with the wrong slope of the trench profile during the rainy season or melting snow, the top water will literally drain to the foundation from the soil saturated with moisture.
Another mistake is the absence of an expansion joint between the concrete blind area and the plinth. At high air temperatures, internal stress forces arise in the concrete near the wall, which lead to cracks. The same happens if transverse expansion joints are not laid or cut in the reinforced concrete blind area.
It is unacceptable to use sand containing clay and dirty water when preparing a concrete solution. This will degrade the quality of the concrete and reduce the lifespan of the blind area.
If a faucet for irrigation is provided in the basement of a private house, then a separate gutter must be laid under it. It is needed to drain water outside the blind area in case of leakage of stop valves or a leaky hose connection.
Video description
Another mistake when installing a blind area on a video:
The maximum slope of the blind area is 10%. And with an organized drainage of water from the roof, trays must be laid under the drainpipes with a slope of more than 15%. This regulatory requirement is sometimes ignored.
Determination of the thickness of the blind area
On the site of a private house, concrete is used, a prefabricated semi-rigid or soft coating. The thickness of the semi-rigid coating is set by the material for the blind area around the house: clinker bricks, tiles or paving stones. But the size of the concrete pavement must be calculated. At least in order to calculate the volume of the solution and the depth of the trench for all layers.
Knowing the standard width of the blind area and the minimum level of elevation of the outer edge over the site, it is possible to calculate the only parameter that is not regulated by the standards - the thickness of the rigid coating, taking into account its slope.
The minimum thickness of reinforced concrete is about 70 mm - the thickness of two rods with wire strapping plus a layer of concrete on all sides of more than 30 mm.
Video description
What are the features of a hard and thick blind area in the video:
This size must be multiplied by the slope, multiplied by the width of the tape, divided by 100. This will be the difference in height between the outer edge and the base. And now the difference in heights must be added to the thickness of the edge to get the thickness at the base.
If the thickness of the edge is 70 mm, the slope is 5%, the width of the blind area is 1000 mm, then the height of the covering at the base is 120 mm.
Concrete blind area manufacturing technology
Step-by-step instructions on how to make a blind area around the house looks like this:
Preparing a trench ("trough") for a blind area. The full width is removed from the fertile layer (from 20 to 30 cm). Compacting the bottom of the trench and forming a slope. Particularly carefully ram the area near the foundation with backfilling, while adding local soil - the thickness of the compacted layer in this place is at least 15 cm.The depth of the trench should be sufficient for the underground part of the hard surface, the thickness of the pillow (minimum 10 cm, recommended 15 cm) and insulation for the blind area around the house on heaving soils. If the trench after excavation of fertile soil turned out to be deeper than the calculated one, then the difference is compensated by filling with compaction of either local soil or a layer of clay (the second option is preferable).
Trench for a blind area with a slope from the foundation Source stroidom-shop.ru
Pillow. For weak soils, the creation of a crushed stone base is recommended as the bottom layer. First, crushed stone of the middle fraction (40-70 mm) is poured, leveled and tamped. Then - fine crushed stone (5-10 mm) to fill the voids of the previous layer. When compaction of crushed stone, it is watered with water. Sand is poured next, which is also leveled, watered and tamped. It is the sand, according to the standards, that serves as the basis for the installation of the blind area. The level of crushed stone preparation should have a maximum deviation of 15 mm by 2 m, sand - 10 mm by 3 m.
Waterproofing. A waterproofing film is laid on top of the sand. It does not serve to protect the soil, but protects the concrete from moisture loss during its maturation. In the regulations, this layer is called "separation". For this, a geomembrane or polyethylene film with a thickness of 200 microns is used.
Video description
You can also use welded waterproofing - an example in the video:
Warming. When creating a blind area on heaving soils, the structure is insulated with extruded polystyrene foam. If two layers are laid, then the seams of the upper sheets are shifted relative to the seams of the lower ones.
Formwork. It is made from edged board and bar. At the same time, laths are laid for transverse expansion joints. Usually, these slats are mounted at the design level of the surface of the blind area with a given slope angle, and concrete is poured along them, like beacons. The lath width is 20 mm, the cross-sectional height is more than 25% of the blind area thickness. The approximate joint spacing is calculated by multiplying a factor of 25 by the thickness of the concrete at the base. Usually, for concrete pavements, expansion joints are combined with technological ones (one portion of pouring between the battens). The expansion joint at the base is formed from folded strips of roofing material with a total thickness of about 5 mm.
Do-it-yourself installation of a blind area around a house made of concrete Source fondeco.ru
Reinforcement. The easiest way is to lay a road mesh with a cell of 100x100 mm and a bar diameter of 4 mm. Adjacent cards (stripes) are overlapped by one cell (or more) and tied with wire. The distance from the waterproofing or insulation is at least 30 mm. This size must be maintained in relation to all surfaces - front, at the ends of the edge and relative to the base.
Concreting. Use concrete M200. After pouring, within four hours, the concrete must be covered. And for 14 days - moisturize.
Protection against destruction. To improve the wear resistance and strength of the surface, iron is carried out. There are two types: dry - after pouring, wet - simultaneously with filling the expansion joints with a sealant. After removing the slats (14 days after pouring the concrete), the joints are filled with bitumen mastic with the addition of a mineral filler.
Note. Stamped concrete technology can be used to enhance the surface and give an attractive decorative look.
Stamped concrete from blind area to walkway Source vest-beton.ru
If the blind area requires repair
If the concrete began to collapse, then, depending on the degree of damage, the restoration technology has the following form:
with a local nature (up to 30% of the surface) and narrow cracks - they are poured with cement paste (proportions of cement and water 1: 1);
with local repairs and wide cracks - they are embroidered, the visible reinforcement is treated with an anti-corrosion compound, and they are sealed with a repair polymer-cement mortar;
in case of crumbling and delamination - the weak areas are cleaned and the screed layer is poured from a cement-sand mortar around the entire perimeter of the house (with the preliminary installation of a new border and the installation of a reinforcing frame).
When performing each type of repair, the surface of the blind area must be cleaned of dirt and debris, treated with a deep penetration primer.
As a result. It is important to remember that the blind area is only part of the water protection measures. The most effective blind area in conjunction with storm sewers, when water is collected in special receivers and pipes are diverted away from the foundation.
Storm drainage system Source bloknot-voronezh.ru
As a result, the foundation will receive reliable protection not only from rain or melted snow, but also from groundwater.
And we hope you received answers to your main questions - how to make a blind area around the house and who to entrust it.
At the final stage of construction of a private house, developers have a feeling that the building is ready for use. Wanting to plunge into the solution of issues on the improvement of living quarters and move in as soon as possible, many do not attach serious importance to some points. An important nuance is the blind area around the house. It solves the problem of preventing waterlogging of the foundation around the building, ensures the durability of the building.
The blind area of a private house is an integral element of the building. Do not prematurely check in and celebrate housewarming, postponing its construction "for tomorrow". Indeed, the strength of an unprotected foundation exposed to moisture gradually decreases, and uneven shrinkage occurs.
Experienced builders always construct edging around the building, which can be made in various designs. Compliance with technological recommendations allows you to reliably protect the foundation of the structure during the period of operation. Only by adhering to the technology, you can correctly make a blind area around the house. Consider the purpose of the protective edging, parameters and designs. We will decide on the choice of building materials for the work, and also study how, in accordance with the technological requirements, a blind area is made around the foundation of the structure.
What is the blind area around the house for?
Protecting the foundation, the blind area of a private house is made in the form of a kind of edging around the building, which has a slight slope to the outside.
The blind area near the house, first of all, serves as a kind of protection along with a decorative function
It is designed to solve serious problems:
- preventing the impact of precipitation on the foundation of the building;
- drainage of moisture from the foundation into the storm sewer pipes;
- reducing the depth of freezing of soil along the contour of the building;
- reduction of heat losses along the perimeter of the building foundation;
- protection of the soil adjacent to the foundation from freezing and swelling;
- limiting plant growth, protecting the surface of the foundation from roots;
- the formation of a transition around the foundation, which improves the appearance of the structure.
After the end of construction activities, start making a blind area so that, before the autumn rains and winter frosts, you have time to protect the adjacent soil from waterlogging, and the foundation of the structure from destruction.
Private house blind area - operating parameters
In order to properly make the blind area around the house, follow the recommendations of professional builders.
A blind area is installed around the house with your own hands after the end of the laying out of the walls, when it comes time for exterior decoration They focus the attention of novice developers on the following nuances:
- the minimum width of the site, which must be at least 0.6 meters. The increase in size to one meter increases the convenience of movement around the building;
- the need for free flow of precipitation onto the blind area. The width of the concrete edging must exceed the roof contour by at least 0.2 meters;
- full girth of the foundation around the perimeter of the structure with a surrounding edging. The configuration of the protective path should not have gaps for reliable protection of the foundation;
- providing a slope from the building to the ground from 1 to 10%. Exceeding the specified values, corresponding to the slope of the edging 1 m wide by 1–10 cm, may cause slipping;
- pouring concrete mortar in the manufacture of edging with a layer of up to 10 cm. To increase the load capacity in wet soils, the layer thickness is increased to 15 cm;
- mandatory construction along the perimeter of the edging of the protective curb. It additionally protects the foundation from damage by plant roots;
- the formation of a towering edging above the soil level. With a drop of 5 cm above the ground surface, flooding of the protective contour along the outer edge is excluded.
Compliance with the requirements of building codes will create favorable conditions for long-term operation.
What building materials is the blind area made of around the building
Consider what building materials are used for the blind area around the house. Popular:
- artificial concrete paving stones. It is presented in construction supermarkets in an expanded range. Differs in color scheme, texture and shape. Radial configuration prevents edge chipping. The size and structure of the artificial stone allows it to maintain its integrity under the influence of various loads that arise when moving along the path. Special piping enhances the look. Building material is not afraid of frost, temperature jumps, it fits quickly;
In addition to its direct purpose, the blind area "works" as a heater for the basement of the building - natural stone. Strong granite is used, from which paving stones of the required dimensions are made. The finished products are cut from a solid mass of granite blanks of standard shape in the form of a cube or parallelepiped, as well as chipped parts. The process of laying natural stone is similar to the technology of installing paving stones made of concrete. A sand and gravel layer with a thickness of 4–5 cm is preliminarily formed. Then stone paving stones are laid, the seams at the junction of the elements are sealed;
- concrete. The use of a concrete mixture is a budget solution that allows you to form a surface with increased strength, as well as high water-repellent properties. Concreting is carried out in a collapsible timber formwork on pre-prepared soil. To ensure the integrity of the concrete mass during deformations, expansion joints are made around the perimeter of the structure. To improve perception, a pebble layer of pebbles up to 50 mm in size can be placed on the surface. This decoration gives the concrete an original look;
- paving slabs. A significant advantage of this building material is the accelerated replacement of cracked elements. The dimensions and configuration of the tiles are regulated by the requirements of the current standard. Square tiles with a maximum size of 50x50 cm are used, as well as rectangular products up to 100 cm long. Standard products are gray. But there are also multi-colored products with a decorative pattern. If the dimensions of the tiles correspond to the parameters of the edging, it is easy to quickly lay the paving slabs without adjusting the dimensions;
The width of the strip should not be equal to the level of the roof protrusion, nor should it be narrower than this protruding edge - crushed stone. This building material allows you to quickly and with minimal costs equip a protective edging around the building. This option is used with closely spaced aquifers and the presence of drainage communications along the perimeter of the structure. Expanded clay granules or gravel can be used instead of gravel. The crushed stone layer should be carefully compacted, having previously laid geotextile fabric on the ground. It is easier to move on compacted gravel, and geotextiles will not allow weeds to germinate, protect building materials from mixing with the soil.
Most private builders provide concrete edging to the building. For its construction, the following building materials and tools will be required:
- waterproofing building materials for covering (roofing material, geotextile);
- planed boards for formwork construction;
- reinforcing bars or purchased mesh with a cell size of 100x100 mm;
- fine sand, cleaned from impurities, and medium gravel;
- Portland cement with a mark of at least M300 and clay;
- sheet expanded polystyrene for the heat-insulating layer;
- wooden stakes and a marking cord;
- bayonet and shovels for earthworks;
- a compaction device to facilitate ramming;
- bubble level required to check levelness.
Having decided on the coating and preparing the building materials, proceed to further work.
Initially, the marking of the future protective strip is carried out, for the arrangement of concrete protection Private house blind area - design options
The edging around the building differs in manufacturing methods and design features. They include two layers that perform different functions:
- underlying. It is made of refined sand, fine gravel and clay. A working coating is laid on a pre-rammed base;
- finishing. It is formed from moisture-resistant building materials that protect the foundation of the building from excess moisture. Provides a surface with an improved appearance.
Answering the question of how to make a blind area around the house, we inform you that there are various solutions. The standard classification of blind areas includes the following varieties:
- soft. The intermediate layer formed between the outer material and the ground is made in the form of a special cushion. It includes several compacted layers. The outer layer, made of fine gravel and crushed stone, takes the greatest load. The use of bulk building materials reduces costs and significantly reduces the duration of work. Despite a significant drawback - low durability, the soft version is used with a limited estimate;
- medium hard. This is an option based on a sand-crushed stone mixture. For finishing, various building materials are placed on the tamped pillow - ceramic tiles, natural and artificial paving stones, ordinary cobblestones, as well as porcelain stoneware. The design does not provide for thermal insulation and the construction of semi-rigid edging on soils prone to frost heaving. The acceptable level of costs and the ease of construction are due to the lack of concreting. Customers are attracted by simple technology and low consumption of building materials;
In order for the future blind area of the house to be strong, withstand compressive and tensile loads, it needs to be reinforced - tough. It is erected by the method of concreting with preliminary installation of the reinforcing cage to increase the strength characteristics of the array. The rigid construction allows for thermal insulation. It is characterized by increased durability, equal to the duration of the building's operation. Despite the serious advantages, there are a number of disadvantages. This is the increased labor intensity of the formation of a rigid base, an increased volume of costs, as well as the need to use special finishing building materials.
The choice of the best option is made individually, depending on the possibilities.
How to make a blind area around the house - the main steps
Standard technology includes the following operations:
- Site preparation.
- Moisture protection.
- Backfilling.
- Formwork assembly.
- Thermal insulator laying.
- Reinforcement.
- Pouring concrete.
We will try to answer the question of how to make a blind area at home.
Preparatory activities
The sequence of preliminary works:
- Removing vegetation.
- Cleaning the outer layer of the soil.
- Performing markup.
- Control of placement relative to the edge of the roof.
- Extraction of soil around the perimeter.
- Removal of fertile soil.
When performing work, pay attention to the horizontalness of the prepared surface.
Waterproofing protection
For the device of the hydraulic lock can be used:
- waterproofing in rolls. Roofing material, geotextile or polyethylene are used. They are laid without stretching on a compacted and moistened layer of sand;
- clay. On a 5 cm thick sand cushion compacted and spilled by water, an array of oily clay is formed, having a layer thickness of up to 12 cm.
These building materials provide a high level of waterproofing.
The poured concrete mixture should flow to the house, slightly squeezing it Pillow device
Adding is done as follows:
- Pour 10 cm thick crushed stone on the bottom of the pit.
- Add sand, sprinkle with water and compact.
- Form the required slope of the surface.
For the drainage device, it is necessary to lay the pipes under a layer of rubble, ensuring the slope of the lines.
We make the formwork
Algorithm of actions for assembling a wooden frame:
- Cut the pieces of wood.
- Saturate the wood with an antiseptic.
- Drive vertical supports into the soil.
- Nail the boards.
- Seal the gaps.
- Form an expansion joint.
- Check the correct assembly of the formwork.
When performing work, form transverse seams using thin strips located in 2 m increments.
Do not erect a blind area immediately after the construction of the basement Heat insulator installation
Installing insulation is easy:
- Lay the Styrofoam sheets.
- Seal the cracks with polyurethane foam.
- Cut off the congealed foam.
- Lay the expanded polystyrene plates.
How to correctly perform reinforcement and concreting
Reinforcement laying and concrete pouring is the final stage. Sequencing:
- Tie the reinforcement cage from the cut blanks, lay it in the formwork.
- Prepare concrete mix, pour, ensuring equal thickness.
- Consolidate the array, forming the required angle of inclination.
- Cover with polyethylene, maintain the required moisture content of the concrete.
After the final hardening of the concrete, dismantle the formwork.
Outcomes
Builders' recommendations will help you make the right blind area. It is necessary to decide on the design, observe the recommended dimensions and technology. It is important to ensure a harmonious combination of edging and exterior decoration of the building.
