Drainage pit installation. Arrangement of the sewerage system of a country house: do-it-yourself cesspool

Have you thought about the issue of making a country water supply? Then you should know that in addition to it, you will also have to make a country sewer. By by and large, it differs little from that system Wastewater gadflies that are laid in the city - the difference between them lies only in the point of discharge of polluted waters. If in the city all sewer pipes lead to sewage treatment plants (at least, this should ideally be the case), then in the country a drain pit is used as their role. It's about her, or rather about her self construction, and the conversation will go in this article, in which, together with the website, we will deal with its device, manufacturing technology and materials that can be used to create it.

How to make a drain hole photo

Drain pit: device and principle of operation

Structurally, the classic drain pit is simple fixture, which almost every person can make in the country - even special skills are not needed here. Moreover, it can be made from a fairly large number of improvised materials. This is on the one hand, but if you look at this device from the other side, then, like all technical devices, the drain pit has its own subtleties and nuances that you need to know. First of all, this device and the principle of operation - if you understand these points, then there will be no problems with the selection of materials for the pit, or with its direct construction. The classic drain pit consists of the following elements.

You can see more details about the device and the principle of building a drain pit in the country in this video.

In principle, this is the whole device - as you can see, a do-it-yourself drain pit does not differ in complexity of design. The principle of its operation looks even simpler - drains falling into the pit are simply absorbed into the soil. This is with regard to their liquid part - with solid waste, things are somewhat different. First, they accumulate at the bottom and do everything to clog the channels in the soil and prevent the rapid absorption of liquid - they kind of set themselves the task of making sure that they are constantly in the water. In the end, this will happen - when this happens, you just need to start adding special bacteria to the pit, which will liquefy the solid waste of human life.

Do-it-yourself drain pit in the country: what to make

As you already understood, the main element of the drain pit, which, in general, will have to be built, is a persistent wall that prevents the destruction of the pit. It can be made from various materials, which you can collect quite a lot - naturally, we will not do this and consider only the most common options. The task is not to poke your nose, they say, do it, but to clarify the principle, having understood which, you can independently select the material you need for the drain pit from what is available at the dacha.

In general, the principle is simple - you need to create some kind of container. How and from what you make it is now up to you. You need to go through the cottage well, and other storage facilities - you see, something suitable will come across.

How to make a drain hole: a bottom filter and its purpose

Bottom filter - without it, not a single pit is able to serve for a long time - it is for this reason that the question of how to make the bottom of the drain pit should be given Special attention. There is nothing complicated here, you just need to know a couple of points, which, in general, extend the life of the drain pit in the country.

In principle, these are all the nuances associated with the manufacture of a bottom drain pit filter. They should not disdain, even during the construction of a drain pit small size- as mentioned above, it is able to increase the service life of an individual by two or even three times.

In conclusion of the topic about how a drain pit is made, I will say a few words about its close relative - a septic tank. They are distinguished from each other by the presence of several chambers in the second one, in which solid and liquid waste is separated. As a result, one liquid reaches the chamber in which water is absorbed into the soil, as a result of which the ducts in the soil are practically not clogged. Consequently, such a pit also serves very well without pumping for a long time- if you make a septic tank correctly, then you can use it for almost half a century. Read about how to do it in another article on our site.

People tend to travel outside the metropolis, to the country, to be closer to nature, fresh air and earth. But there one unpleasant discovery awaits them - the absence of the usual urban amenities, one of which is sewerage. There is no centralized system traditional for the city, therefore, for a comfortable stay, you have to lay pipes for wastewater and get acquainted with such a concept as a drain pit in a private house.

The principle of operation of country sewerage

The modern dacha is fundamentally different from village houses last century. Economic townspeople replaced toilets hastily knocked together in the yard with comfortable toilet bowls, installed showers, bathtubs, washing and dishwashers. The question arose: where should the dirty used water go?

This is how an elementary sewer system appeared: a set of discharge pipes that lead to a storage tank installed in a summer cottage outside the building. Different structures can act as a storage device: an expensive station biological treatment, a simpler device - a septic tank or cesspool, known since ancient times. Waste and sewage through pipes enter the store, from where they are taken out at different intervals by special equipment.

Regular pumping out of the contents of the waste pit is a prerequisite for its use. The only way to effectively clean the drive is to call the vacuum trucks

Most vacationers, especially those who spend only their summer holidays in the country, dream of installing a suitable drive quickly and cheaply. Perfect option in this case, a do-it-yourself drain pit. For its construction, it will take several days and a minimum of costs - mainly improvised material: bricks, boards, cement.

Calculation of the volume of the drive

Before digging a pit, it is necessary to determine its dimensions, as well as the approximate volume of wastewater. It is generally accepted that 0.5 m³ of the total volume of the pit should be allocated for each tenant. But you need to take into account the incalculable consumption of water during water procedures and use household appliances, therefore a tank of at least 6 m³ is required for a family of 4.

The slope of the base of the pit towards the location of the hatch is necessary for the full pumping of sewage by sewage equipment - a specially provided hose that is lowered to the bottom

The dimensions of the structure depend on the volume of incoming effluents, but there are certain boundaries. For example, the depth of a country drain pit should not exceed three meters, otherwise the sewage equipment simply cannot cope with cleaning. The width is usually 1-1.5 m, the length is 2.5-3 m.

Attention! The soil level should exceed the filling level of the pit by at least 1 meter. This is a kind of insurance against spillage of sewage beyond the boundaries of the pit.

Choosing a suitable construction site

It is important not to make a mistake in choosing a location. The question arises: how to make a pit for a drain pit, so that sanitary standards are not violated?

The diagram shows the approximate location of the drain tank in relation to residential building, water source and nearby obstacles

There are a number of rules:

The minimum distance from the house to the drive is 5 m.
The distance to the nearest water source is 30 m or more.
The hole must be on open space not surrounded by buildings or fences.
A prerequisite is a good access road for a sewage truck.

It is necessary to consider the drain pit as an object of increased danger, so the playground and recreation areas should be located on the other side of the house.

An example of the construction of a brick pit

Stage #1 - earthworks and foundation

Digging a pit is a difficult and time-consuming process, so it is better to use an excavator if possible. The most convenient shape is considered rectangular or square, but pits and cylindrical configurations can also be found. During digging, the condition of the walls should be monitored: they should be even and protected from shedding.

If you have not had to deal with brickwork before, it is better to choose a rectangular structure: straight walls and corners are easier to form

Features of the device of the drain pit largely depend on the material. Let us consider in more detail the construction of a red brick storage tank with a concrete bottom.

The bottom of the tank should be given a slight slope towards the hatch - for effective cleaning. Bottom layer - 15 cm sand cushion, then a layer of concrete, in conclusion - a cement-sand screed.

Attention! Instead of a multilayer base, a reinforced concrete slab of suitable dimensions can be installed on the bottom.

Stage #2 - building walls

The material for the construction of the walls is red brick, the mortar for laying is a mixture of sand and clay, which will later play the role of plaster. Masonry is made traditional way- with a shift of the brick by half in the next row. Minimum Thickness masonry - 0.25 m. brick walls partially permeable, but how to make a drain hole airtight? And it's very simple - you need to use bituminous mastic or similar waterproofing solution.

During the construction of the pit, a long ladder and any useful material at hand, such as boards and beams left over from the construction of the house, are used.

Attention! Bitumen-based mastics cover only absolutely dry walls.

Stage # 3 - installation of the overlap

The most durable is the reinforced concrete floor. Wood and plastic are not suitable, as they have a too short service life. It is better if the upper part of the structure is blocked from the sides by 0.3 m. The pumping hole should be located in the upper part, but not in the center, but on the side of the slope of the base. The structure for the concrete floor is created in several stages. The first layer of mortar (5-7 cm) is poured, then iron bars are laid on it, covered with a second layer of concrete on top. When the overlap is completely hardened, it must be masked: covered with a thick film and covered with soil. Only the hatch should be visible from the ground.

Only the manhole cover remains visible on the surface of the earth. It can be made of concrete, plastic or metal.

As you can see, it is not difficult to make a brick drain pit, just basic skills in masonry and wall processing are enough.

Advantages and disadvantages of the structure

The advantages of a drain tank include the following factors:

Ease of installation and maintenance. You can dig a hole and ennoble it yourself, and to clean it, just call the sewers.
Independence of installation from soil type. In sandy soil, a clay castle is used for greater strength.
Protecting groundwater from pollution. Concrete bottom and brick walls prevent runoff from penetrating into the ground, but if it seeps out, soil bacteria can handle the cleanup.

Before you dig a storage drain hole, you should also consider its negative sides. One of the tangible troubles is the periodically occurring smell of sewage. Regular cleaning will help eliminate this problem.

A well-equipped road leading directly to the waste pit is a guarantee of high-quality cleaning. Road construction is best done at the stage of building a house

It is necessary to get used to frequent visits to the sewers - 1-2 times a week. Only with frequent cleaning of the pit does silting occur. The service life of a brick drive is no more than 15 years, since the masonry slowly collapses under the influence of water. If for some reason the cesspool ceases to suit, you can install a more functional septic tank that performs mechanical and bacteriological wastewater treatment.

Living in an apartment, you probably don’t think about how underground sewage works. You do not need to worry about pumping out the pit and in general about its presence. But life in the countryside is a completely different matter. When installing a bathroom or toilet, you need to make sure that the drain pit is not only roomy, but also properly made.

And then the question arises, but how, so that in a year it does not crumble? We suggest you read the article to the end and find out the answer.

Location selection

Before building a pit, you need to decide on a place and take into account some of the nuances. Firstly, important rule, which cannot be neglected is the distance from the house or fence to finished construction. It should be at least 5 m, but 7-8 m is better.

Secondly, to pump out the pit, they resort to the services of vacuum trucks (if you have not bought a special pump, which we will talk about) and, naturally, the car needs access. Therefore, build the structure as close to the gate as possible, if possible. But in pursuit of convenience, do not forget about the mandatory five meters.

Thirdly, consider the presence of wells or wells on the site. If they are, then the distance between the pit and the well should be at least 30 meters. As for groundwater, this is not a decisive factor in choosing a location. The type of pit depends on their presence.

Types of pits for draining

Despite their simplicity, they can be of three types:

Two-chamber. It consists of two chambers connected by an overflow. In this case, the first will be sealed, and the second - filtering. Pipes coming from the house carry waste, which is separated in the process - solid inclusions fall to the bottom, and the liquid is transferred to the second chamber and filtered into the ground.
Sealed. This type of cesspool is the most environmentally friendly, because all waste is stored in a pit and waiting until it is pumped out. But along with this, this plus turns into a minus, because you have to constantly pump out the pit.
Filtering. Such a pit can only be built if overall size waste per day does not exceed 1 cubic meter. In other cases, according to sanitary standards, you need to build pits of the first type.

Whichever hole you choose, sooner or later it will need to be cleaned. In order to simplify this process, use processing biopreparations.

Scope and choice of building materials

The drain pit in a private house should be roomy so that you do not have to pump it out every week. Calculate it Exact size impossible, because it all depends on how much water is spent on laundry, washing dishes, hygiene procedures, and so on. But there are certain rules from which you can build on.

For example, if three people live in a family on a permanent basis, then the size of the pit should be 6 cubic meters.

Separately, it is worth talking about the material with which the drain pits are lined.

Typically the following is used:

Concrete;
Brick;
concrete rings;
Plastic.

In the first case, a formwork is built into which concrete mortar. In order for the pit to be stronger, do not forget about reinforcement. The thickness of the bottom and concrete walls should be at least 6-7 cm. Using plastic is the easiest option. It is enough to dig a hole and install a plastic container of the appropriate diameter. But there is one downside. Plastic, under the pressure of the soil, can be deformed and to avoid this, the pit still needs to be concreted. In addition, you need to install special loops to which the tank is attached.

Brick is best option for those who live in a private house or have a cottage. A pit lined with ceramic bricks serves for a long time and does not collapse under pressure, but on condition correct masonry. Also, do not forget about the filtration slots, the size of which should be 4-6 cm. Concrete rings are also not a bad option, but installing them yourself will not work. At a minimum, you need a crane or a few helpers. Usually 2-3 rings are used for pits, but it all depends on the size.

Knowing the above information, let's talk about how to make a drain hole with your own hands.

Construction stages

The first step is to dig a hole of the appropriate size. Its shape can be both square and cylindrical. Usually, try not to dig holes more than 2 meters wide, but this is discussed in individually.
After the hole is dug, you need to level the walls so that they do not crumble.
The third stage is the piping. Important nuance, this is the slight inclination of the pipe necessary for the fluid to drain by gravity. If the pipe has a diameter of 100 mm, then the slope is 20 mm. If the diameter is 160 mm, then 10.
After the pipes are installed, 10-20 cm of sand or gravel should be poured into the bottom of the pit. Then, pour the “pillow” with water and tamp a little. If the pit is a filtration pit, then we leave it that way. And if it is sealed, then the bottom must be concreted or a concrete slab laid.
Next, the walls are strengthened by the method you have chosen: brick, plastic, and so on.
If your pit is airtight, then after strengthening, you need to carry out waterproofing work.
The pipeline is connected.
The cover is installed.

With the advent of summer, many people leave the stuffy city and spend time in the country. But elementary amenities are not always present at their summer cottage, including modern sewerage. With urban housing (apartment), everything is clear: all waste and sewage "go" into the centralized sewerage system, but for a summer cottage / private house that is not connected to a centralized sewerage system, this is a kind of obstacle to a good rest. But this problem is completely solvable, and a do-it-yourself drain pit will bring life in the country closer to the civilized world.

A drain pit in a private house is the simplest, moderately convenient and functional example autonomous sewerage. This system provides for the collection of used water in the storage pit. And without it, there is no way, because a person not only drinks water, but also actively uses it - he washes, takes a shower, bath, does laundry, cooks food. Water and amenities such as the indispensable washing machine are hard to come by today. Therefore, any summer resident or just the owner of private housing should think about where to put this used liquid.

Drainage pit - choice of location

Before making a drain pit, you need to decide on the choice of its location. The question is quite difficult, because it has a number of aspects. The first aspect: a drain pit - the distance to the building should be at least five to eight meters, these parameters must be adhered to and the drain pit should not be located near the house. Another issue is the length of sewer pipes, they should not be excessively long. Well, the third side of the issue concerns the cleaning of the drain pit, that is, there must be an entrance to the sewer truck to it. And you also need to pay attention to wells and wells: if they are present on the site, then there can be no talk of a drain pit with natural filtration. The minimum distance allowed between these two objects is 30 m.

As for determining the level of groundwater, this argument does not play a big role in choosing a place for a drain pit, since ground water affect only the type of such a structure: draining or sealed.

The volume of this effluent tank

Before digging a drain hole, it is necessary to correctly determine its volume. This parameter depends on the nature of the use of housing: people live there permanently or seasonally, on the number of family members, on the frequency of using a bathhouse, shower, etc.

Appearance typical drain pit

This may also apply clay soil not prone to rapid filtration, therefore, if the first year the storage pit still copes with its functions, then in the future the soil will become saturated with fats and will practically cease to absorb waste. Therefore, if possible, it is better to make a drain hole with a margin, for example, for a family of three people - 6 cubes.

Pipe laying rules

If the volume is already determined, then you can start laying pipes. At this stage, very important point: observance of a constant slope of 3-5 degrees, this is approximately 4-7 cm per meter of pipe being laid. And also you need to take into account the fact that the longer the pipe, the greater the slope must be observed.

The choice of material for the construction of a drain pit

The device of the drain pit can be different:

- brick;

- plastic;

- concrete rings

The initial stage of construction - the foundation pit

All these materials are used to equip the drain structure. The walls of the pit can be lined with bricks, or you can use a container as a base: a barrel without a bottom, a body from the old washing machine, car tires that are stacked one on top of the other.

The shape of the waste collection tank

Usually, the drain pit in the country is equipped in the form of a cube. But this is not the best option. It is more rational to use a cylindrical shape, since it is known that the cylinder is a more durable figure. The loads on its walls are evenly distributed, and the probability of destruction of a cylindrical drain pit is practically reduced to zero. And quite the opposite is the case with drain pit cubic shape, its walls do not withstand the load and the probability of its destruction is significant.

Drainage pit made of ceramic bricks

So, first, a hole is dug according to predetermined sizes. High-quality soil - black soil, can be distributed on the site, and it is better to remove loam, sand, clay and stones from the yard.

How to make a drain hole out of brick? Ceramic brick is the best option. He possesses positive characteristics: serves for a long time and does not collapse from the harmful effects of moisture. It must be laid on a light foundation. The thickness of the walls can be half a brick to save Money, when laying bricks, you need to remember about the gaps between the ends for filtering (5 cm).

Important: the walls of the pit can be laid out not only with bricks, but also with natural stone.

After completing the masonry in the lower part of the pit, you can begin the process of drainage backfilling. To do this, the space between the soil of the pit and the walls of the drain pit is filled with crushed stone, pebbles or construction waste(concrete, brick battle).

Important: the layer of drainage backfill should be approximately 20 cm.

Masonry is not carried out to the very ground level, but 80 cm below. At this mark, it is equipped reinforced concrete slab for covering. It can be factory or homemade. concrete slab with your own hands you can pour it on the formwork (20 cm thick).

Also in this concrete structure it is necessary to take care of the drain hatch and arrange a reliable cover in order to fully exclude the possibility of children falling into the drain pit. Optionally, you can make the ventilation of the drain pit.

Important: if the drain pit is located at the entrance of the vehicle, then the concrete floor slab should be thicker (at least 25 cm), plus well-reinforced.

The remaining space is covered with earth. Everything, the drain pit is ready, you can safely walk and ride on it, and you can also plant a flower bed for the beauty of the yard, then such a device will not spoil the design of the site.

Construction of concrete rings

For people who want to make a drain tank on the site, the question often arises: how to make a drain hole from concrete rings? A drain pit made of reinforced concrete rings is easy to build, you don’t need special qualifications for this work, but you just have to work hard physically.

Stages of work:

At the site where the planned placement of the drain pit, the first ring is installed. Under it, the soil is selected and the ring is lowered.
The second ring (with the same size) is installed on the first ring. The edges of such rings have protrusions, it is thanks to them that the sewer rings are assembled into a single structure.
The soil is selected until the second ring is also lowered.
The drain pit may consist of 2-3 rings or more, depending on the planned size.

Important: the upper last ring must necessarily rise above ground level by 20-30 cm.

The hole for the outlet pipe is easiest to make with a puncher using a drill bit. And if this is not the case, then you need to draw a location circle on the ring drain pipe, drill it with a regular drill, and then knock it out.
From above, the drain pit is covered with a solid cover: reinforced concrete, cast iron.

A video clip will tell you how to remove sludge when digging a drain hole with your own hands.

Little tricks of arrangement

It is clear that sooner or later you will have to call a sewage truck to collect wastewater. But how to make a drain hole, so to speak, "long-playing"? There are several nuances that will help prolong the cleaning of the pit. First of all, you can divide the drain. That is, in addition to the main drain pit, equip another pit, but only a smaller one. Water without solid waste will drain into it (from the washing machine, from the bathroom, shower). The water in the smaller drain pit will quickly drain into the ground, as there will be no accumulation of fat deposits on its walls.

And secondly, you can use the achievements modern science. For this you need to purchase special means, consisting of a biological basis. This is a unique liquid with bacteria. Such bacteria recycle waste, drainage is cleaned, and the infiltration of water runoff into the soil improves.

The technology for arranging drain pits (with bricks and concrete rings) is simple and quite doable on your own, without involving a team of professional workers. And the benefits of such a device are enormous: comfort, convenience and reliability.

In most cases, sewerage in the country is not provided. Instead, a cesspool is used. There are quite a few options for its construction, and each has both its advantages and disadvantages. Next, consider in detail standard designs cesspools and analyze how to install them.

What is a drain pit and why is it needed

A drain pit, or as it is also called a cesspool, is necessary for private houses that do not have a direct sewer supply. The right drain pit recycles waste, allowing some substances after processing to soak into the ground without harm to it.

The popularity of this type of treatment plant is due to the ease of installation and the speed of work. One person without assistants is able to complete all the work within 3-5 days, depending on the type of construction.

On the other hand, there are certain difficulties associated with the further operation of the cesspool. First of all, this concerns the issue of pumping sewage. Equally important is the correctly selected volume of the pit.

Drainage pit device

The simplest designs that are most often found in rural houses and simple summer cottages- is digging into the ground old barrel or a tank that has served its time. Such a design will allow for the collection and partial filtration of wastewater, provided that their daily amount does not exceed 1 m³. Such schemes have not received approval from the sanitary services, as they can harm the environment.

The simplest drain pit in a private house is a simple design. Through the sewer pipe, although direct flow is often encountered, sewage enters a container, the bottom of which is covered with silt. The drain pit should be equipped with a gas outlet pipe through which methane generated during waste processing will go outside.

Such a system is completely unsuitable for those houses in which it is planned permanent residence. Taking into account the fact that the average daily water consumption for a family of four is up to 1 cubic meter, this leads to the need for frequent cleaning of the cesspool, and, accordingly, to financial costs. Previously, a ubiquitous method of removing sewage into the soil with their subsequent natural filtration was widespread, but in the current realities, this method, for obvious reasons, is prohibited by the sanitary service.

However, this design is quite common, and there will be no special alternatives for summer cottages with infrequent attendance. It is easy to equip it on your own, but you need to consider the following points:

The walls of the pit will require strengthening, as the water will gradually collapse the structure. To prevent this, they install a tank, or they build walls from brickwork or concrete rings.
The volume of the cesspool should be at least three cubic meters. The correct calculation is made taking into account the fact that each person will need at least one cubic meter of space.
Installed ventilation will increase the rate of waste recycling.
If an overflow pit is being equipped, then it practically does not need to be cleaned, since its design assumes the presence of several chambers for waste processing. In this case, sewage enters the first chamber, in which they accumulate. After the level of sewage reaches the overflow partition, they will flow into the second pit and there they will already be absorbed into the ground. The solid waste remains in the first pit and is processed by the bacteria.

Types of drain holes

According to the type of execution, cesspools are divided into:

concrete storage,
brick,
with a receiving container
temporary
with timber formwork,
without a bottom, with the output of waste moisture directly into the ground.

We make a drain hole from concrete

It is a pre-fabricated solution for receiving sewage and has the following advantages:

Construction speed. In fact, with a set of factory-made concrete rings, such a structure is built in one day. There is only one drawback - you will need a crane or an excavator to work.
Reliability and durability of concrete.
Minimum installation complexity.

Such a structure is being erected quickly:

First, a hole of the planned depth is dug.
The site is then levelled.
Using a crane, the first ring is installed.
The soil from under the ring is evenly removed, while exposing signal supports that prevent the structure from skewing.
After the second ring was installed on the first ring, they are fastened together with metal brackets.

The installation is continued in the same way to the planned depth.

When all the rings have been placed, install with a crane concrete floor with holes made in it for the hatch and ventilation pipe. The finished structure should rise above the ground at a level of at least 30 cm.

To provide her with better tightness, all seams and the junction with sewer pipe carefully sealed with bituminous mastic.

The problem of the hermetic design will be its rapid filling, and the need for frequent calls for sewage services, which will pump out sewage. In the same case, if the withdrawal of water into the ground is allowed, then rings with holes made are purchased. The installation technology is no different from the above.

To give the finished structure a more complete look in terms of aesthetics, you need to sprinkle with earth the part protruding above the soil surface drain system, while providing planting with plantings that will perform a decorative function. For example, landing undemanding to conditions moorish lawn will turn the purification plant into a flowering flower bed.

Brick drain hole

According to experts, the best option will be the application ceramic brick which will ensure the strength and durability of the structure. The process of building a drain pit made of bricks is conditionally divided into several stages:

in a hole dug to the required depth, a drainage layer 20 cm thick is placed, consisting of sand and crushed stone of different fractions,
after that, they begin to build walls, laying bricks in a checkerboard pattern, taking into account a gap of 5 cm between them for better filtration of waste substances,
on all sides, bricks, as the masonry grows, are lined with crushed stone of large fractions,
in the masonry make the necessary clearance for inserting a sewer pipe.

There are often conflicting recommendations about the final step. For example, to reduce costs, it is proposed to perform masonry half a brick thick, but it is important to remember that such a design will hardly take the weight of the concrete closing cover.

The design itself provides for two options for laying bricks:

down to ground level
80 cm below ground level.

In the case of laying bricks to ground level, space must be left, taking into account the thickness of the closing cover made of concrete. The recommended construction with the completion of masonry, not reaching the ground by 80 cm, raises some doubts about its appropriateness for a number of reasons:

since the design will require the installation of a closing cover, then in the end the drain will still be deepened into the ground by at least 50 cm - which is dangerous by a possible fall into the pit,
it is advised to fill the cover with earth to the surface level, but in this case either access to the hatch will be blocked, or another pipe of a larger diameter than the dimensions of the cover will have to be mounted on the installed cover - and in this case the system will be subjected to additional load.

Masonry is inferior to concrete in a number of factors:

a concrete structure is erected much faster and ultimately requires less funds for construction,
brick is more susceptible to moisture,
for uniform distribution loads on the walls of the cesspool should have a cylindrical shape.

The expediency of erecting brickwork is manifested only when it is not possible to call heavy trucks.

Receiving containers made of plastic

If the question is how to make a drain hole without resorting to special costs, it is acute - then you need to pay attention to the option of installing a polymer tank of the required capacity. In this case, all work boils down to the fact that the required amount of earth is dug under the tank, and then the collection is placed in the prepared hole. After that, the remaining space is filled with soil. It is important to remember that sealed structures necessarily require the installation of a gas outlet.

Among the advantages are the following:

ease of construction
minimum costs in terms of labor intensity,
protection of the air from the release of unpleasant odors,
the durability of the polymer material, which is up to 50 years,
during use, no waste substances enter the soil.

Of the minuses, you need to pay attention to the need for periodic pumping of sewage and the small capacity of the tank, so this option is optimal for use in low load conditions. For example, if the cottage is visited once a week, and a small amount of waste goes into the drain pit.

Temporary drain holes

They make them from outdated car tires. It is important to consider that the inner diameter must be at least a meter, otherwise the pit will quickly become clogged with sewage. In fact, the construction is easy to build: a hole of the required depth and diameter is pulled out, after which it is filled with tires, laying them one on one to the ground level.

Among the advantages of the design are the following:

ease of work
low price of waste tires,
after laying, the empty space is filled with earth, and no additional finishing is required.

It is worth remembering that the design is suitable for a toilet placed outside and not connected sewer system with the house. Since it is assumed that the load on the pit will be negligible. Despite its name, with infrequent use, such a pit will last up to 25 years.

Drainage pit with timber formwork

Like the previous design, the use of wood is suitable as a temporary solution. In fact, this option is still sometimes used in rural areas and in some summer cottages, but due to the fact that wood, even with high-quality processing, will not withstand more than ten years, it makes little sense to use wooden formwork. Nevertheless, this is a drain pit, the price of which will be the most acceptable and will not exceed 3000-4000 rubles.

Of course, the speed of erection and isolation of the soil from sewage are the advantages of the design, but nevertheless, it is inferior to all varieties of the cesspool and for the most part serves as a relic of the past.

Drain hole without a bottom

It is a cesspool constructed of bricks, with the difference that the bottom of the drain is not processed. In some cases, the bottom is covered with a metal mesh, but in a chemically aggressive environment, it quickly rusts and loses its suitability. Impurities evenly fall into the ground, but due to the strong silting of the bottom of the pit, additional cleaning is periodically required.

In addition to the above, when arranging a cesspool, you need to pay attention to some tips to increase processing efficiency and ensure greater durability of the structure:

Drainage of the bottom of the pit is best done using coarse gravel to prevent premature silting. The layer thickness must be at least 10 cm.
To improve drainage at the bottom are inserted asbestos pipes, which are installed with a ledge at a level of 50 cm from the bottom.
It is better to finish the walls with clay to reduce the concentration of hit harmful substances into the ground.
In the event that there is one cesspool on the site, but its volume is not enough, it is more expedient to arrange another one nearby and connect PVC pipe from the first. In this case, the structure will become overflow and will need to be cleaned much less frequently.
From the first moment of use, it is necessary to use special preparations containing bacteria. They speed up the natural recycling process and reduce odor.
The overlap should extend above ground level so that in the event of heavy rain, the drain pit does not overflow with water and its contents do not fall into the area.
In any embodiment, the design must contain exhaust pipe to remove accumulations of methane and other dangerous substances.
Inorganic substances, including low quality toilet paper- can significantly reduce the service life of the structure and contribute to strong silting of the surface.