Lathing for drywall in the attic. Attic sheathing with drywall - fast and high-quality finish

In a private house, the issue with the attic space is acute. Why waste usable space, if it can be made into living room. It is not very difficult to equip an attic for housing, if only such a desire appears. This room is located under the attic and has a sloping ceiling, which significantly distinguishes it from other rooms.

Finishing the attic with drywall is more challenging task than renovating an ordinary room, precisely because of the sloping ceilings. However, it is worth it, because the created room will not only be beautiful, but also completely livable.

After all, the attic can be sheathed various materials, of which there are many. Why should you opt for drywall?

Environmentally friendly material is always preferable to something of dubious origin. A core of gypsum wrapped in thick cardboard, what could be harmful here?
Cheapness is also a weighty argument. Anyone can afford to buy enough drywall sheets to convert an attic into living space.
Despite the use of cardboard, this building material is fire resistant. It does not burn, but can only smolder.
A drywall attic can be additionally insulated. This is possible due to the fact that drywall sheets are attached to the crate, forming a cavity into which heat-insulating materials can be restored.
You can also hide under the skin power cables and other communications.
Sloped ceilings are very difficult to level conventional materials, but with drywall, the flat will remain flat.

There are certain nuances that can make you refuse to use GKL when finishing the attic. The fragility of drywall is its Achilles heel. One blow is enough to break through this material and render it unusable. Even a heavily screwed self-tapping screw can lead to unwanted deformation.

Drywall should not be used in new homes. If the house can shrink, then the GKL will not withstand this and will be deformed.

It is not very convenient to bring the overall drywall into the attic. And if the material is cut in advance, then a lot of waste can turn out. High humidity and dampness in the attic will cause the gypsum to absorb it and swell, which is also highly undesirable.

Selection of drywall

It is wrong to think that the attic sheathing with drywall can be carried out using the classic wall and ceiling plasterboard. You will have to use moisture resistant materials for the reasons described above.

GKLV has a greenish color and has excellent moisture resistant characteristics so that it can be used under a roof. Hydrophobic impregnation will do its job, and you can not be afraid high humidity. However, such sheets are very heavy, which is fraught with high loads on the ceiling frame.

Drywall weight
View	Sheet size (mm)	Thickness (mm)	Sheet weight (kg)	Weight 1 sq.m. (kg)
wall	1200x2000	12,5	22,32	9,3
	1200x2500		27,9
	1200x3000		33,48
moisture resistant	1200x2000	12,5	24,24	10,1
	1200x2500		30,3
	1200x3000		36,3
Moisture resistant ceiling	1200x2000	9,5	24	10
	1200x2500		30
Ceiling	1200x2000	9,5	17,5	7,3
	1200x2500		21,9
Arched	1200x2500	6,5	18	6
	1200x3000		21,6
fire retardant	1200x2500	12,5	30,6	10,2

Everyone will have to look for the golden mean on their own, choosing drywall.

Preparatory work

You can’t just take it and start carrying out repairs without pre-training. It's about not only about buying fasteners, but also about bringing working surface into the desired shape. Preparation includes the following points:

you need to make sure that the roof does not leak and does not have any defects. It is best to check this in the fall, when it rains massively;
In advance, you can determine the level of humidity in the attic with a hygrometer. In the summer, such a check is useless due to the intense heat. Perhaps the attic is made so high quality that there is no dampness. This will give you an idea of which drywall to use;
wooden beams must be treated with an antiseptic, if this has not already been done;
before sheathing the attic with drywall, you need to decide on the places for sockets, lamps, ventilation, etc. After that, the wiring of communications is done;
acquire Consumables and tools: self-tapping screws, glue, plasterboard, profiles or bars, screwdriver, metal scissors, building level etc. The set of tools may vary depending on the specific case.

Drywall sheets must be brought into the room where repairs will be carried out for 1-2 days. The sheets adapt to the local temperature and humidity, which means they will not deform after installation.

What to make a frame

The most reliable and the right way when sheathing the attic with drywall, is the use of a special frame. However, in some cases, sheets can be attached directly to inner lining roofs. If the distance between the rafters does not exceed 60-70 cm, then drywall can be safely attached to them.

Fastening drywall to the wooden frame of the attic

If the attic area is too large, the rafters are far apart, or you plan to create a special-shaped interior, then you will have to create a frame. It is from its construction that the decoration of the attic with drywall begins.

positive side repair work is the fact that the attic is made evenly, and there is no need to level the surfaces.

If do wooden crate, then you need to find the bars along the length of the room and attach them to the rafters. Then drywall is attached to these sheets with self-tapping screws. If you use a metal profile, then everything will be a little more complicated, but finishing the attic ceiling with plasterboard will turn out to be better.

You can learn more about how to make markings for the ceiling from the video.

Assembling a metal frame for attic cladding

Consider an example of performing work on one sloping ceiling. The rest, if any, are done in the same way. The attic is distinguished precisely by a sloping ceiling, and the walls and a flat ceiling are the same as in an ordinary apartment.

To work, you will need a guide profile UD 27x28mm and CD 60x27 mm. Attics are often larger in size than ordinary rooms, so the length of the guides may not be enough. A profile extension bracket will help to cope with such a problem.

Along the sloping ceiling on adjacent walls, you need to attach two guides. An indent from the ceiling of 5 cm will be enough. You can mark up in advance to make it easier to attach the guides. Moreover, special measurements are not needed, because everything is already even.

Profiles 60x27 mm are inserted into the guides so that they run parallel to the floor. We extend them if the room is too large. The step between the profiles should be 60 cm. At the junctions, they are fastened together with small self-tapping screws. There must be profiles along the edges of the sloping ceiling, where it connects to the wall and to the straight ceiling.

Recommended step between profiles is 60 cm

To prevent the plasterboard ceiling in the attic from falling off, we need to fix the hanging profiles with hangers. The hangers are screwed to the ceiling in increments of 60 cm. Before attaching profiles to them, you need to make sure that there is no sagging anywhere and the ceiling will come out even. To do this, pull several threads across the profiles. The thread will show whether the profile is in the right plane. After that, you can attach them to the suspensions. The ears of the hangers are bent after installation so as not to interfere. Just do not bend them too much, they may still be required for laying insulation.

Installing jumpers for extra rigidity

The ceiling frame is not ready yet, because it lacks rigidity. For this purpose, jumpers are installed (step 60 cm) between the newly fixed profiles. For greater convenience, you can use special brackets with crabs, to which pre-cut jumpers will be attached. If you do not want to endure additional waste, then you can go in a different way.

Scheme of fastening jumpers to the profile using crab brackets

The ceiling profiles are installed in such a way that nothing can be inserted into them from the side. There are two options for solving the problem:

small pieces of guides are attached to the sides of the profile on self-tapping screws so that a jumper can be inserted into them;
the jumper is made a little longer, and its ribs are cut off a little. The jumper cut on both sides easily fits on the ceiling profile, and then screwed to it.

Regardless of which method is chosen to install the jumpers, the installation will be of high quality, and the frame will be rigid. In this case, finishing the attic with drywall will be successful. However, you still need to insulate the roof and sheathe the frame.

Warming is an important step to create a cozy attic

There are two ways in which mineral wool insulation can be used in an attic sheathed with drywall.

The insulation is placed between the profiles that fix it and prevent it from falling out. After that, sheathing is carried out using GKL.
The insulation is placed between profiles that do not fix it. In this case, partial fixation is carried out due to suspensions that bend to hold the insulation. Scotch tape can also temporarily help, but the main fixation is performed by the drywall sheets themselves. In this case, finishing the attic ceiling with drywall is carried out in parallel with its insulation.

The insulation layer is fixed with hangers and the attic sheathing is carried out in parallel with plasterboard sheets

To make the first option possible, it is necessary to insert the same guides into the guide profiles instead of the ceiling profile. Moreover, they are inserted back to back to each other, so that there is where to start the insulation.

The insulation can also be fixed on liquid nails or using other adhesives.

You need to know in advance the dimensions of the insulation in order to install the profiles at the right distance from each other.

Most often used for insulation mineral wool, which is available in the form of tiles or in the form of a roll. Insulation tiles have a fixed size, and the roll is fixed only in width, and it is cut into length based on current needs.

Fastening drywall to frame

Directly finishing the attic with drywall is more simple process than all the work that was done before.

Sheets are recommended to be installed horizontally to make it easier for you to work with sloping ceiling. They must go in a checkerboard pattern so that the load is evenly distributed on the frame. Self-tapping screws 25 mm long will be just right.

Drywall is screwed with self-tapping screws in increments of 15-20 cm. It is attached to the guides, to the ceiling profile and to the lintels. Although this is not an ordinary ceiling, there is still a slope, which means that the fixation must be reliable. In order for the screws to better hold the sheet, they need to be screwed 1 mm below the drywall level. In this case, the sheet shell should not break through, otherwise such a fastening will be useless.

Someone prefers to use two layers of GKL for reliability, but this makes no sense here. Heat and sound insulation has already been laid, and a ceiling with reinforced strength in the attic is not needed. The second layer will only create additional weight, and no one needs it.

This finishes the attic with drywall, and all that remains is to carry out finishing of your choice. The main thing is to prime everything well and putty well. The remaining parts of the attic are sheathed with drywall in the same way. Docking in the corners should not be a problem, despite the presence of a sloping ceiling.

Finishing the attic with drywall helps to increase the usable area and hide the defects of the wall ceilings, creating a healthy microclimate.

This lightweight material, which, with a minimum of labor costs, will not create a large load on the attic structure.

But finishing work with plasterboard sheets is carried out after the thermal insulation of the room, since the material itself is not insulating.

Selection and calculation of building materials

So the attic is an under-roof space with conditions prone to an increased level of humidity.

To calculate required amount finishing sheets of drywall, it is necessary to calculate the area of \u200b\u200bsheathed surfaces and divide the result by the area of \u200b\u200bthe first drywall plate.

The purchase of material for sheathing should be carried out with a margin. The need for other building materials and tools depends on the method of finishing.

Training

Using attic room in summer, the preparation consists in removing the existing old coating from its surfaces and cleaning the wall and ceiling ceilings from dust and debris.

Finishing work does not begin without checking the condition of the roofing.

During the rainy season, the weak points of the roof will appear and then its timely repair will guarantee the absence of smudges on the mounted drywall sheets.

Beams and rafters are checked for their strength, dryness, and the absence of traces of rot and mold.

With a newly erected attic, the finish is postponed until its structure is completely dry, as this can affect the displacement and deformation of the drywall.

Fastening is made in 1 or 2 layers. They start from the side planes, leaving the ceiling lining in the end.

Warming process

As an insulating material, you can use foam, the thickness of which is in the range of 2-10 cm. When installing plates from this material, the joints are processed for tightness with mounting foam.

The disadvantage is the possibility of creating favorable conditions for rodents.

When installing mineral wool as an insulating material, it is impossible to avoid the appearance of dust that is unsafe for human health. The layer thickness is within 2-20 cm.

The correct insulation technology requires the creation of a waterproofing layer from the inside of the plane, located with the porous part outward.

Therefore, surface insulation begins with cutting waterproofing material v right size and its fastenings between the rafters.

The material is stretched and fastened with a stapler. The edges of the waterproofing material are overlapped.

Tools and materials

Plasterboard sheets,
Straight metal profiles for 2.5 - 6 m,
Corner metal profiles,
suspensions,
crabs,
Electric drill,
metal spatula,
Long roll.

The manufacture of the frame is possible using a wooden beam, the humidity of which is from 12%.

In this case, it will require pre-treatment with antiseptics, which will extend its service life and protect it from decay.

truss mount

Finishing the attic with drywall with its attachment to the rafters is recommended for small room with a step between the rafters up to 75 cm.

The advantages of this option are the speed of work, the minimum cost compared to the construction of the crate, and the minimum physical effort during the installation process.

Minus - the possibility of difficulties in leveling the finishing layer due to the imperfection of the even arrangement of the rafters.

Therefore, to smooth this defect, a thicker material is selected - 25 mm, since thin plasterboard sheets will be subject to bending and damage when the roofing sways.

On a metal frame

Before fastening, the frame borders are marked on the floor using a paint cord. A similar contour is transferred to the ceiling with a plumb line.

The lines on the surfaces mark the locations of the frame elements.

Guides are mounted with dowels and self-tapping screws. Fixing a separate profile segment to the base is carried out at least in 3 places with a step of up to 1 m.

Hangers that secure the frame are mounted vertically.

Installation of racks in the guides is done relative to the vertical markings. The elements are attached to the guides and hangers with self-tapping screws.

Gypsum boards are fastened with self-tapping screws in increments of 25 cm.

With capacity in height more vertically located material, the fastening of its plates is carried out with an offset to avoid long horizontal joints.

Installation on a wooden crate

Sheathing - a frame structure made of wood, built from slats running across the rafters. The location of the rails in the same plane using leveling pads.

Drywall slabs are installed vertically on timber horizontals.

The importance of this stage lies in the final alignment of the plane. Incorrect conduct this process will favor the appearance of cracks.

First, the seams are putty. An upper overlay of a connecting reinforcing tape is made with the passage of the seam relatively exactly in its middle.

After the 1st putty layer hardens, a thinner one is applied again to the seam with the tape.

After its complete drying, puttying is carried out with the 3rd layer. Recesses from self-tapping screws are also sealed. At the end, all the roughness is sanded.

Master class on the topic:

The resulting surface is primed and lined with wallpaper, a decorative plaster layer, or painted.

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Finishing the attic with drywall - simple, economical
The article will tell about finishing the attic with drywall

Often, the attic space in the house is made residential, because this is a great option to increase the usable area without high costs. Finishing the attic with drywall - great solution Problems interior design, allowing you to quickly make non-residential premises suitable for habitation.

However, this type of work is associated with many nuances, because the attic itself does not have thick walls, and it will be necessary to insulate and strengthen the entire structure.

What are the advantages of finishing the attic floor with drywall

First, it is affordable and relatively inexpensive option quickly make repairs in an initially completely uninhabitable room.

Secondly, the output is perfect smooth wall surfaces, which will facilitate them. further finishing according to the intended decoration plan.

Thirdly, even in an emergency (roof leakage) moisture resistant drywall able to withstand moisture for some time.

Fourthly, GKL is a very environmentally friendly material, since it contains nothing but paper and gypsum in its composition.

And finally, this simple technology installation that any homeowner can handle with minimum set tools.

1st stage: preparation

If it was planned to make the attic a living space even at the construction stage, then all the nuances should be taken into account in the project. But what to do when there was such a need for a finished house?

Before transferring such a room to the category of residential, you first need to calculate the margin of safety of the floor. In new houses built after the 80s, it is usually from reinforced concrete panels, and there shouldn't be any problems. But in older houses, the entire floor may need to be replaced.

At the preparation stage, it is necessary to insulate the room, since the roof consumes up to 30% of the total heat of the house.

As a heater, two main types of material are used - polystyrene foam or mineral wool. The insulation technology is as follows.

Between the rafters to the surface roofing material a hydro-vapor barrier is mounted in the form of a special film.
According to the size of the cells formed truss supports, cut the insulation and lay it at the installation site.
Another layer of vapor barrier is placed on the insulation material.
Surface close up OSB boards, chipboard or plywood.

The last layer in the form of sheets of this or that material can be omitted, but simply vapor barrier film with insulation, fasten with longitudinal rails stuffed along the entire floor.

Also, you can not use ordinary PVC film as a waterproofing layer. It does not have the ability to pass water vapor, as a result of which condensation will first form inside, and over time, mold and fungus.

2nd stage: materials and tools

Drywall in the attic is mounted on the same principle as in ordinary residential premises, that is, on a frame basis. Accordingly, the selection of materials and tools is the same, namely:

Metal profile for CD and UD markings.
Mounting material: self-tapping screws, press washers, “crab” connections.
Hacksaw or scissors for metal, tape measure, level, screwdriver.
Drywall, preferably moisture resistant.

Also, the frame can be made not of metal, but of wood. For this, a well-dried timber is prepared - the main and carrier rails. The tree should not only be dried. Before assembling the frame, all wooden parts must be treated with antiseptic agents to protect against mold and mildew. And in no case should you assemble the frame on nails!

3rd stage: assembly of the frame base

Finishing attic floor drywall is possible in three versions: on a metal frame, wooden or directly on the truss system.

Metal profile frame

First, the location of all partitions is planned, both wall and interior (if any).

As well as the area on the basis of which the ceiling surface will be formed.
Usually, at some distance from the wall, a low partition (wall) is mounted. To do this, two longitudinal guides from the UD profile are mounted along the room.
CD-profile carrier rails are inserted into the guides. If possible, you can do additional mount on direct suspensions to the rafters. If necessary, transverse rails from the same profile are also mounted, connecting with each other by “crabs”.

For fastening, use self-tapping screws or press washers. The plasterboard attic ceiling is also mounted on such a frame. To assemble it, you may need suspensions with traction, since the length of straight lines does not always allow you to fix frame structure. To assemble the ceiling base, the following work is carried out:

The lowest point is measured, and markings are made from it using a hydraulic level. All marks are connected with a marking cord.
According to the marks, guide profiles are attached to the rafters on self-tapping screws.
Carrier rails from the profile are inserted into them and fixed to press washers. If required, perform additional fastening on suspensions or rods.

With a significant length of the ceiling structure, the use of additional direct suspensions or fasteners with rods is mandatory!

Longitudinal carrier rails are also mounted, which are connected to the transverse ones using joints.

wooden frame

For its assembly, two types of rails are used - main and carrier. The main ones are fixed to the rafter system with self-tapping screws, they serve as the basis for mounting the load-bearing beams. Bearing - perform the function of a support for drywall sheets.

Also, if you do not plan to create walls and partitions, you can fix the carrier rails directly to the rafters, which, in turn, will play the role of the main ones.

For mounting wooden frame walls, there is the following algorithm:

Install longitudinal rails.
The racks of the frame are mounted on them, connecting to the longitudinal rails using a mounting bracket.
Insert transverse bars, fixing them with racks.

If necessary, the frame is treated with an antiseptic and the installation of the GKL begins.

Rafters as a frame

It is also possible to make a GKL attic filing device directly onto the truss system. Alternatively, you can mount the longitudinal rails, and then sheets of material are attached to them. And you can mount the GKL directly on the rafters using wood screws, this is the most cheap finish attic floor with plasterboard. In this case, you can not even assemble the frame under ceiling structure. In this version, finishing the attic ceiling with plasterboard repeats all forms of the roof.

Stage 4: how to finish the attic with drywall

The process is exactly the same as in a normal room.

Sheets of material, if necessary, cut to size.
Fastening is carried out on self-tapping screws, sinking the hats into the surface by 2 millimeters.
If you need to bend the sheet, then the cardboard shell is pierced at the place of bending and the material is moistened. Then the sheet is applied to the frame in the desired shape and fixed. After drying, it will take the desired shape.
At the joints of the GKL, they glue the sickle and proceed to further finishing.

A drywall attic, made using technology, will last a very long time and will allow you to increase the usable area of \u200b\u200bthe house without significant investment.

Stages self-plating drywall attic
The attic is often made into a residential floor, but it needs repair work. How is the attic finished with drywall, what do you need to know for this, and what nuances should be taken into account?

Attic decoration is an excellent solution for adding another living space. The most commonly used trim lining. But one of the best materials for finishing becomes drywall. How is the attic finished with drywall?

Choosing a material

In order to qualitatively veneer the ceiling in the country, it is important to choose the right plasterboard sheets.

It is important that the material has increased resistance to moisture. He should not be afraid of water. Therefore, it is important to choose moisture-resistant green drywall.
Refractory properties are also important. These boards are reinforced with mesh and include fiberglass additives. Such structures make it possible to keep the plates from destruction during a fire for several hours. The rafter system will not be damaged at all.
The best choice are boards that combine both fireproof and water-repellent properties.

GKL KNAUF (KNAUF) plasterboard sheet 12.5 mm

Advantages of plasterboard ceilings for the attic

Due to the small thickness of the finishing layer, the attic area does not decrease.
The low cost makes it possible to sheathe the ceiling with almost any budget.
The installation process will not be as laborious as when finishing with clapboard. And full processing allows you to realize any design ideas.

The following advantages of the drywall sheets themselves are distinguished:

environmental safety. This material consists of natural gypsum and cellulose. It does not contain any harmful additives.
High strength characteristics. Through it you can install fasteners for lighting fixtures needed for the ceiling.
High elasticity. If deformation of the main ceiling occurs, the plasterboard may bend, but will not break or crack.
Waterproof. It's content useful property, which will come in handy if for some reason the roof is damaged. At the same time, the attic room will be protected from possible flooding.
fire resistance. If there is a fire emergency, drywall will protect the roof from fire. But at the same time it is necessary to choose sheets with increased fire resistance.
Possibility of giving desired shape . If the material is wetted on one side, the material can be given almost any shape. It will remain after drying.
Excellent compatibility with other materials. Even when decorating the walls with clapboard, a harmonious space is created.

Features of the ceiling finish

Finishing the attic with drywall always begins with finishing the ceiling. This method is not only inexpensive, but also effective. It allows you to prepare the surface for further processing. In this case, the walls can be sheathed with clapboard.

Installation materials

Plasterboard cladding requires the use of the following materials:

Moisture resistant drywall sheets,
mineral wool,
metal or wooden profiles,
Fasteners in the form of self-tapping screws,
reinforced tape,
Putty mixture for leveling and finishing.

Installation on a wooden crate

Sheathing can be done in one of the following ways:

The first method begins with the need to insulate and finish the entire surface inside. Hard-to-reach areas that are between the bottom of the slope and the floor are involved. You can successfully arrange pantries and cabinets in niches.
The second method involves fencing a certain part of the room. Drywall sheets are installed on a frame made of wood or metal rails.

First you need to make a wooden crate. Separate slats are fixed across the rafters at a certain distance. The cross section of individual rails is determined not only by the thickness of the drywall sheets, but also by the distance between the rafters. For example, with a rafter pitch of 100 cm, the slats should have a section of 60x40 mm.

The crate is attached to the pediment using dowels for this. Plasterboard sheets are fixed to the frame in 25 cm increments with screws. Thus, you can equip the ceiling in the country. Walls can also be finished with drywall, but can also be finished with clapboard.

Wooden frame for ceiling

Mounting on a metal profile

More often, a metal frame is used in cases where it is required to sheathe the ceiling. large area. This design provides increased fire resistance and resistance to physical impacts of the entire frame. The pitch of the rafters should be up to 100 cm. All work is carried out according to the following scheme:

First, hangers and staples are attached to the rafters.
Profiles having a given pitch are screwed perpendicular to them. It is chosen depending on how thick the drywall is used. For example, a pitch of 50 cm is suitable for sheets having a thickness of 12.5 mm.
With the help of self-tapping screws, sheets of self-tapping screws are screwed. It is important to observe a step of up to 20 cm.
The ceiling begins to be laid from below, and the next row is laid directly at the already installed row.

Plasterboard ceiling installation

Finishing

Ceilings in the attic are finished in the same way as other structures. You need to take certain actions. The seams between the sheets must be filled with putty. The surface is checked for defects such as dents, holes and protruding fasteners. Everything needs to be put in order.

It is important to perform the following sequence of actions:

Treat the entire surface with a liquid primer,
Putty joints and holes with self-tapping screws,
Reinforcing mesh must be glued to the joints,
A layer of starting putty is applied to the ceiling,
When the first layer dries, a layer of finishing putty is applied,
When the surface is dry, it is sanded using a tool with an abrasive surface,
Carry out a complete cleaning of the attic, including debris and dust,
Apply a primer to the surface.

If you plan to decorate the walls with clapboard, choose the right color for the ceiling. If you want to create light modern interior, you can use white or sand shades of finish. At the same time, when decorating walls with clapboard, it can also be coated with paint of a dense structure.

What materials to choose for finishing the attic with drywall
Finishing the attic with drywall is the best, not expensive, effective and fast way make an attic-type room suitable for living.

Most owners of private houses, as a rule, think about how to make the attic located under the roof habitable, which will allow them to significantly expand the usable living area. As an option for a quick and not particularly expensive solution to the problem, sheathing of the internal parts of the roof with some kind of facing material can be considered, the choice of which is usually determined by the preferences of the performer.

According to professionals, for these purposes it is most convenient to use drywall, which belongs to the category of quite practical and relatively inexpensive building materials.

In addition to the fact that drywall has a very reasonable cost, that is, it is available to almost anyone who wants it - it has a number of unique properties which are detailed below:

First of all, the natural gypsum contained in this material contributes to the normalization of the indoor climate, absorbing excess moisture from the air and releasing it when there is a shortage. The specified property of drywall makes it indispensable when conducting internal finishing works.
Attention is also drawn to such a property of this material as its fire resistance, due to which, when exposed to high temperatures drywall does not burn, but only smolders, without releasing substances harmful to the human body.
Decorate rooms with this light and practical building material carried out quickly enough. The time spent on finishing work is incomparably less than when using facing materials of any other class. At the same time, for the construction metal frame with its subsequent sheathing with sheets of drywall, you will need no more than 1-2 days; the same amount will be spent on finishing the surface.

In a room such as an attic, it is recommended to use a special kind of this material, namely, moisture-resistant drywall (VGKL), which does not deform in conditions of high humidity.

Significant disadvantages of the material we are considering include its low strength and tendency to fracture even under small loads.

Finishing the attic with drywall is carried out in stages, taking into account the mandatory preparatory procedures (including inspection and repair of the roof). Let's consider each of these stages in more detail.

Preparation for finishing includes two obligatory points, the success of the whole event depends on the correct execution of which.

First of all, before starting the main work, you should make sure that the roof of your building is in perfect condition and that there is not even a hint of any leakage in it. If you want the attic to be built to please you with its coziness and comfort, you need to worry about this in advance, because after plasterboarding the walls it will be impossible to correct the situation.

At the same time, you may encounter such an unpleasant phenomenon as the appearance of smudges on drywall sheets, which most often appear in the spring-autumn period (especially during periods of heavy rains). In the event that your roof needs partial repairs, it is best to postpone the idea of \u200b\u200bfinishing the attic with your own hands until better times.

In this case, it is advisable to wait for the rainy season, which will allow you to detect all damaged areas. roofing. Only after the final elimination of these damages, it will be possible to proceed to the implementation of the second paragraph.

Second part preparatory work includes an examination of the load-bearing elements of the roof structure, namely its beams and rafters, the strength and reliability of which should not cause any doubt. When inspecting them directly, be sure to make sure that dampness does not accumulate on these parts of the structure, and that there are no traces of mold and rot on their surface.

The wood elements of the used frame base must be well dried before installation. Such foresight excludes the possibility of deformation of the structure during its operation, which can cause displacement of the sheets. finishing material and the subsequent destruction of the entire finish.

Preparation of material and tools

For finishing work, you will need to purchase the following building materials:

drywall blanks;
wooden bars or metal profiles (for the manufacture of the frame);
a set of fasteners (including special hangers and self-tapping screws).

From the tool you will need:

screwdriver - it will be required when constructing the frame and fixing the sheathing sheets;
building level, with the help of which the horizontal fastening of bars or profiles on the walls is controlled;
grinder for cutting metal blanks of the required length or special scissors for metal;
tape measure and pencil;
a sharp knife used to cut drywall blanks (or a hacksaw).

At small sizes in the attic space, it is allowed to fix the facing material on a wooden frame, made by stuffing thin bars and battens onto beams and rafters, then sheathed with sheets of drywall.

Preparation of a solid metal frame may be required in the following cases:

in a situation where fixing sheets facing material on the inner crate of the roof is impossible;
with a significant size of the attic;
if you want to give the interior of the finished room an unusual and original look, for which it will be necessary to make a frame of complex configuration.

The installation of a metal base under the attic sheathing, in essence, is no different from similar operations performed when finishing other rooms. In this case, guides are also first mounted around the perimeter, into which so-called rack profiles are then installed in increments of 60 cm. When they are installed Special attention should be given to the areas of the location of window and doorways. In these sections, the installation step of the profiles is selected so that the cladding planes follow the contours of the existing windows and doors.

When arranging a metal frame, you may encounter certain difficulties, consisting in the fact that during its preparation it is required to exactly repeat the contours of the roof structure, which, as a rule, has a complex configuration. In the event that the owners strive to make the most of the usable area in the future premises, they have no choice but to prepare a frame structure that exactly repeats the contours of the existing roof.

In order for your attic to turn out warm and cozy - between roof structure and sheathing (in the niches of the frame), it is imperative to place a layer of insulation, which is most conveniently used as a material molded in the form of mats or plates.

Placement of material in the places of laying can be done in one of the following ways:

free styling;
fixation with a special adhesive composition;
fixing mats or slabs with profile sections.

The first method is preferable when the material fits into the niches very tightly, without a gap, and is self-fixed in them due to compression. The second method allows you to securely fix the insulation on the surface treated with special glue. Well, in the last case, which is considered the most effective, the plates insulation material are securely pressed to the plane with sections of the profile remaining after the installation of the frame.

Sheathing the frame with drywall is most often done in one layer; however, sometimes, in order to increase the strength of the formed coating, this material is laid in two layers. With a single-layer cladding, you can save on material and possible repair finishing coating, but the walls are not strong enough. The second option involves a greater expenditure of manpower and resources, but at the same time, its use makes it possible to increase the strength of the structure under construction.

The very procedure for single-layer attic sheathing with drywall is relatively simple and, as a rule, comes down to two simple operations. When performing them, the finishing sheet is first applied to the sheathing plane (to the crate), after which it is fixed on the frame base using self-tapping screws (in increments of about 20 cm).

In the case of a two-layer sheathing, one layer is formed first sheet material, after which the second row is laid on it with a slight offset.

On this, perhaps, the recommendations for finishing the attic with drywall end. Perhaps you have questions while reading this article? Then ask them to our specialist consultant. He will provide you with additional information.

Video

You can learn how to sheathe the attic ceiling with drywall from the video:

Widely used for facing various broken surfaces. One such surface is the ceiling and slopes of the attic room. The attic is the upper room in the house, the ceiling and walls of which is the rafter system of the roof of the house. The triangle of rafters form a broken surface of the attic ceiling, dividing it into the actual ceiling and ceiling slopes, surfaces located at an angle to the ceiling and walls.

Equip the attic, more often, on gable roof, with a broken or straight profile. Since the slope angle mansard roof are made within 30-60˚, then any type of roof can be used to cover roofs. For example, you can use . The angle of inclination of the roof for tiles is from 20-60˚.

Plasterboard attic finishing - general information and material

Plasterboard attic finishing, namely the ceiling and attic slopes, is done on a wooden frame or a metal profile frame.

For a wooden frame, dry wooden beam sections 48×24; 50×30; 60 × 40 cm. The standardization of the bars is conditional and is associated only with the width of the direct suspensions that are used in the metal frame of the attic ceiling.
For a metal frame, direct suspensions and a ceiling profile PP 60 by 27 and a guide profile PN 28 by 27 are used.

The following fixing screws are used for fastening in the frame structure and cladding of the attic frames:

Screw TN 5x70. It is used for fastening bars (bearing) to the structure of rafters and racks in wooden structure ceiling;
Screw FN 5x35 or two screws TN 3.5-4x25. They are used for attaching direct hangers to ceiling and rafter beams.
LN 3.5x10 (metal-to-metal). It is fastened with direct suspensions and metal profiles of the bearing, ceiling guides.

Description of the design of the attic frame for drywall

So, we have an attic with a visible truss system roofs. Closer to the ridge of the roof, the rafters are connected by a beam beam, and to the base of the attic, a frame for the attic walls is made of support bars. All elements attic construction wooden.

The design of the frame for sheathing the attic with drywall, regardless of the material used (bar or profile), is done in the same way.

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The wooden block is attached directly to the roof rafters (1).
The metal profile is attached to the rafters on straight hangers (3).
If necessary, lower the ceiling and attic slopes, wooden block can be lowered with straight hangers (2).

In principle, this is the entire structure of the frame for sheathing the attic. Only the distances between profiles or bars change. The distances depend on the planned load on the frame, and it depends on the planned thickness of the skin. In the table you can see the dimensions of the rafters and the distances between the rafters (a). Table 1.

Note: As in other ceiling structures, gypsum boards can be attached along or across guide bars (profiles). The center distance between the bars (b) depends on the planned fastening of the GK sheets. Table 2.

Corner joints of drywall sheets when facing the attic

Drywall sheets of the ceiling and attic slopes will be joined under obtuse corners. Docking is carried out with the entry of one sheet under the other. With two sheet sheathing, the overlap of the sheets changes: slope, ceiling, slope, ceiling.

After the walls under the slopes are sewn up with drywall, the guide profile is screwed on the laser:

This must be done from two sides at once, so that there is one level on both sides if you want to get an even slope

Mount the guide profile only in those places where there is a profile under the drywall. Just screwing to drywall - to no avail.

Somewhere helped with his knee

As a result, it turned out like this:

Further, at the ridge, at each pediment, two suspensions are attached. They must be on the same line (strictly parallel to the central axis of the attic). For this, I also used a laser plane builder. Between them I pulled a thread and screwed intermediate suspensions along the thread:

After all the upper suspensions are screwed, we unscrew them Not completely, but only the upper self-tapping screw and bend it like this:

to screw the top self-tapping screw into the ceiling profile. You can’t get close with a screwdriver from above, this is the easiest way that I thought of.

The ceiling profile is screwed onto all hangers from above and the hanger fasteners are returned to their place.

I set the lower edge of this profile along a thread stretched between the upper edge and the guide profile. To cling to the edges at the ends of the thread, I made the following devices:

We pull the thread and orient the profile plane along the thread:

This is very important, because along this plane all other, intermediate profiles will be guided.

On the extreme rafters, a suspension is attached every 40 centimeters. A thread is stretched between the extreme ones and suspensions are attached along the thread on the intermediate rafters.

A level is placed between the upper profile and the guide and it is marked on it where the intermediate profiles will pass:

The easiest way is to first press the intermediate profile with a level. With a marker in the other hand, mark a) where to cut the suspension and b) where to screw the self-tapping screw into the profile. Set the level aside. Trim the suspension and screw the screws into the places marked with a marker. It turns out very accurately and simply in execution.

Each edge of the drywall must be supported by something. This will require vertical profiles. Their location should be perpendicular to the central axis of the attic. This is very easy to do with a laser plane builder:

bottom edge vertical profile this is how it enters the guide profile:

Drywall frame ready:

It is sewn up with sheets of drywall:

For the attic, I use the usual drywall Knauf. 2500*1200*12.5mm. These are heavy sheets designed for walls. I deliberately went for it. In the attic, it is advised to use moisture-resistant drywall. I believe that if your roof is leaking, then you need to repair the roof, and not close it with drywall from leaks. And the damaged drywall is simply thrown away. Moreover, moisture-resistant drywall will not allow you to see exactly where you have a leak. In my opinion, moisture-resistant drywall should be used in rooms with natural high humidity- baths, toilets, kitchens, and slopes at windows and doors.

How to press and screw a 30-kilogram sheet onto a roof slope is a separate story, I'll leave it to you as homework

1) Drainage tray LV-10.14.5.10 - plastic - 2 pieces - 570 rubles.

2) Profile PP 60 * 27 3 meters - 28 pieces - 1,540 rubles.

Total: 2’110 rubles.