Before us is a sewing machine of the late 20th century, produced by the Podolsk Plant named after Kalinin. The car, like the previous models, is completely made of metal. The automatic equipment consisted of 5 copiers and remained with the same quantity. True, almost 100% of machine owners sewed the program selection knobs in one position.

Picture 1

Upper thread tension dial(Thermometer) is made in a metal case, the compensation spring works from right to left, which is not particularly successful, see fig. 2

Picture 2

After removing the top cover, we see that all the parts of the car are the same as in class 142, see fig. 3:

1. Knob for sewing program selection;
2. Knob for setting the stitch width;
3. Needle bar position switch (left, center, right);
4. The body of the automation mechanism;
5. Copier removers;
6. Copiers

Figure 3

In fig. 4 you can see the main thing difference from class 142 cars, namely the mechanism of the needle bar and the presser bar.
So, in order to correctly adjust the position of the needle bar, you first need to make the correct installation with presser bar... Loosen screws 1 and 2 and set the foot relative to the slot in the needle hole and tighten the screws.
Having loosened screw 3, we set the position of the needle bar relative to sewing, do not forget that the point of the needle No. 100 should enter exactly in the center of the hole.
Adjusting washer remove the needle bar play, for this we release two screws 7, press the washer against the frame and tighten the screws. Screws 4 and 5 are used to fix and adjust the position of the foot height and the position of the needle bar, respectively.
We fix the position of the thermometer with the screw 6. This screw must be tightened periodically. Thread take-up mechanism the same as in a class 142 car.

Figure 4

Figure 5 shows correct installation of the toothed sector and the shuttle gear... The third tooth of the gear must enter between the first and second teeth of the sector.

Figure 5

The bottom of the machine has not undergone any changes (see Fig. 6):

1. Guide;
2. Cam (lifting eccentric);
3. Regulator of stitch length;
4. Lower end of the drawbar;
5. Crank;
6. Screw for fastening the crank (by loosening it, adjust the stroke);
7. Screw for fastening the back handle;
8. Screw (advance setting);
9. The lower end of the plug;
10. Crank;
11. Fastening bolt (setting the position of the feed dog teeth).

Figure 6

Figure 7 shows the bottom of the machine on the left:
1. Knob for selecting the lifting height of the conveyor teeth;
2. The fastening screw, with its help, the height of the teeth is adjusted;
3. Guide;
4. Screws for fastening the lift eccentric;
5. Lift eccentric;
6. Shaft of fabric conveyor;
7. Shuttle device;
8. Screw fixing the clamping bracket;
9. Toothed sector;
10. Shuttle gear;
11. Adjusting washer.

Figure 7

Adjustment of all units and parts, travel and advancement, elimination of backlash in units is exactly the same as in machines of cl. 142, therefore, after watching the film, it will not be difficult for you to disassemble, assemble and adjust the sewing machine.

The instruction of the Chaika sewing machine can be used as an operating manual for any model of sewing machines that perform the Chaika zigzag stitch: Chaika 2, Chaika 3, Chaika 134.

This instruction for the Chaika sewing machine is also suitable for the Malva sewing machines and the Podolsk brand: Podolsk 142, Podolsk 142M, etc.

1. Sewing machines like Chaika, Podolsk are arranged in the same way

These operating instructions for the sewing machine are given in abbreviated form, based on the manufacturer's instructions.
The operation and device of the Podolsk and Chaika sewing machine is practically the same type, therefore this operating manual is suitable for all models of these sewing machines, including the Malva sewing machine. They have the same structure and differ only in the presence of additional types of zigzag stitching. Some Chaika and Podolskaya models have an additional device (copier) for this and, accordingly, a lever for switching modes of its operation. The shuttle device, threading and adjustment parameters of the units and mechanisms of these sewing machines are practically the same, with the exception of setting some settings for the shuttle operation parameters (depending on the machine model).
For details on how to set up and perform minor repairs of sewing machines like the Seagull, see other articles in the section dedicated to the repair of sewing machines.

2. Controls and components of the machine Chaika, Podolsk 142

1. Shuttle device. 2. Platform. 3. Stitch plate. 4. Pressing foot. 5. Needle bar. i6. Presser foot lifter. 7. Upper thread tension dial. 8. Top and front covers. 9. Thread take-up lever. 10. Tension washers. 11. Index of the type of stitches. 12. Zigzag width indicator. 13. Spool pin. 14. Winder. 15. Flywheel. 16. Needle bias lever. 17. Zigzag handle. 18. Lever for reverse feed. 19. Knob of the stitch length regulator. 20. Knob of the comb lift regulator. 21. Material engine. 22. Panel of pictures. 23. Knob for switching the copier unit.

3. Types of fabrics for sewing, threads and needles for a sewing machine Chaika, Podolsk

Fine silk, cambric - needle No. 70, thread - 65
Bed linen, calico, chintz, satin, silk, linen fabrics - needle No. 80, thread - 65
Heavy cotton fabrics, coarse calico, flannel, fine woolen fabrics, heavy grades of silk - needle No. 90
Woolen suit - no. Needles 100
Thick woolen coat fabrics, broadcloth - needle No. 110

Needle 1 must be inserted into the needle holder 2 (at the upper position of the needle bar) up to the stop and secured with the screw 3.
The flat side of the flask 4 (flat) on the needle should be facing in the opposite direction from the working person (Fig. 4)

4. Threading the upper and lower thread. Instructions for the sewing machine Chaika, Podolsk

Threading the upper thread
Pull the spool pin 13 up to the stop from the sleeve cover.
Bring the thread take-up eye to the upper position by turning the handwheel.
Raise the presser foot.
Place a spool of thread on spool 13.
Thread the upper thread in this sequence. Into the holes 7 and 6 of the thread guide, between the washers 8 of the tension adjuster, then upwards into the eye 4 of the take-up spring, down under the thread take-up hook 3, up through the hole of the thread take-up lever 5, down into the thread guide 2, into the thread guide 1 on the needle bar and insert into the eye needles 9 from the side of the worker.

Threading the bobbin thread
Before threading the bobbin thread, you need to remove the bobbin case with the bobbin from the bobbin, for which it is necessary to turn the handwheel to bring the needle up. Pull out the slide plate, grasp the bobbin case latch lever with two fingers of your left hand, and remove the bobbin case.

5. Winding the thread. Instructions for the sewing machine Chaika, Podolsk

Wind the threads onto the bobbin using the bobbin winder. When winding thread onto a bobbin, the handwheel of the machine must be idling. To do this, loosen the friction screw 1 (Fig. 8).
Slide the bobbin onto the bobbin spindle 2 so that the spindle spring enters the bobbin slot. Place the spool 1 with thread on the spool pin. Thread the thread from the spool between the tension washers 4, as shown in Fig. 9, and then wind a few turns on the bobbin by hand. Press the winder against the flywheel. Next, wind up by rotating the flywheel using the drive.
When the bobbin is fully wound, the rubber ring of the winder stops contacting the flywheel and winding stops. Before removing the bobbin, the winder must be swiveled to the left of the stop 3.
Thread the wound bobbin into the bobbin case and thread under the tension spring as shown in fig. 10. Leave the free end of the thread 10-15 cm long.
Insert the bobbin case with the threaded bobbin into the hook. In this case, the needle should be in the upper position.
Push the bobbin case with the bobbin onto pin 3 of the bobbin as far as it will go. In this case, the pin 1 of the bobbin case must enter the slot 2 (fig. 11).

6. Machine control. Instructions for the sewing machine Chaika, Podolsk

When the bobbin case is correctly inserted, the latch lever should be in a spring-loaded state and, when opened, try to return to its original position.
Before starting sewing, the bobbin thread must be removed onto the throat plate, for this, holding the end of the needle thread, turn the handwheel so that the needle drops into the needle hole, grabs the lower hook thread and rises to the upper position. Use the upper thread to pull the shuttle thread onto the throat plate (fig. 12) and place the ends of the upper and lower threads under the presser foot as shown in fig. 13.
For sewing with a simple straight stitch, the number 0 on the handle 17 must be aligned with the pointer 12 (fig. 1). The handle 23 can be in any position.
The stitch length is set by turning knob 19 (Fig. 1) until the number aligns with the indicator on the panel.
The reverse direction of material feeding for the bartack is carried out by pressing the lever 18 (Fig. 1) down to the stop. The backfeed pitch over 2.5 mm remains constant within 2.5 mm.
Adjustment of the height of the rack is carried out by the regulator 1 (Fig. 14). The regulator is operated with the slide plate removed. For thick fabrics, the adjuster is set to the H mark (normal), for thin fabrics to the W mark (silk), and for embroidery and darning, to the B mark (embroidery). The letters should be visible from above.
To switch to zigzag, decorative and target stitches, knob 23 (Fig. 1) must be set to the required stitch type by lightly pressing and turning. Turn the knob 17 to align the number 5 with the pointer 12.
The pattern for finishing products will be clearer with a smaller stitching step. Offset stitching is used when performing special operations, for example, when sewing buttonholes, sewing in "zippers", etc. Knob 16 is used to shift the stitching. ...
To check the sewing quality, it is recommended that you sew a test stitch on a piece of the fabric you want and adjust the thread tension if necessary.
The tension of the upper thread is adjusted using the tension regulator. The weaving of the upper and lower threads should take place in the middle of the sewing materials. If the weave thread is on top when the stitch is being formed, release the upper thread tension. If the thread is woven at the bottom, tighten the upper thread tension.
When sewing through thick or hard places, sew slowly and turn the handwheel by hand.
When sewing thin materials such as silk, etc., we recommend pulling the fabric slightly behind the foot to avoid puckering at the seam.
For normal operation of the machine, it is necessary to start sewing in the following sequence: pull the threads tucked under the foot (lower and upper) and hold them, lower the needle into the material (by hand rotating the handwheel towards you), lower the foot and make 2-3 stitches. Then you can release the threads and continue sewing.
After finishing sewing, raise the presser foot, pull the material to be sewn away from you and cut the threads against the thread cutter on the presser foot bar (fig. 12, position 1), leaving the end of the cast 8 to 10 centimeters long.

7. Care, lubrication. Instructions for the sewing machine Chaika, Podolsk

To ensure easy running of the machine and prevent wear, all places indicated by arrows should be lubricated with one or two drops of industrial oil I-20A GOST 20799-75.
Machine head lubrication points (fig. 17)
Zigzag lubrication points (fig. 19)
Cleaning and lubricating the shuttle (fig. 20)
Heavy movement of the machine, and sometimes jamming, can occur from contamination of the shuttle stroke. The course is clogged with scraps of thread, fleece, dust.
See also Sewing Machine Lubrication
To clean the shuttle stroke, the needle bar must be in the upper position. Pull out the bobbin case 1, by turning the spring lock towards you, remove the trim ring 2, take out the hook 3. Carefully clean the nest of the hook 4 with a brush-brush from dust, dirt and threads. In this case, it is not allowed to use metal objects for cleaning, so as not to damage the cleanliness of the working surface. The direction for the hook in the travel housing and the winder spindle are also lubricated with 1-2 drops of oil.

Seagull sewing machine. Repair and customization

The Chaika sewing machine is perhaps the most popular model of a sewing machine for the home, despite the abundance of imported household sewing machines in stores. At one time, I had to buy Seagull for a lot of money, and it seems to sew well, but only sometimes it twists, otherwise everything is safe and sound. Indeed, it is almost impossible to break the Chaika sewing machine. The body is made of aluminum, the parts are all metal, the components are strong and reliable - everything is in the style of Soviet technology. But here, unfortunately, the line loops
practically "from birth", sometimes gaps appear in the line, especially on the zigzag and knocks when sewing like a machine gun.
The manufacturer's kit includes instructions for the Chaika sewing machine, which details how to use the machine and perform various operations, there is even an electric motor circuit, a pedal device, but not a word on how to set up and perform at least minor repairs of the Chaika sewing machine. We will try to fill this gap in the instructions and give some recommendations on how to repair the Chaika sewing machine with our own hands.

Chaika sewing machine modifications

The main malfunction in machines of the "Seagull" type, performing a zigzag stitch and on its basis several types of finishing stitches are gaps, looping of the lower and upper thread, as well as its breakage at the top and bottom. Sewing machine Chaika, Chaika M, Chaika 142, Chaika 132, Chaika 134, Chaika 132 m, Chaika 142 M, Chaika 143, Chaika 3, Chaika 2 and Podolsk 142, Podolsk 125-1; Malva and others - all these machines have the same device and instructions for use and setting, so their repair is almost the same, with the exception of copier repair (depending on the machine model) and setting the shuttle settings. But since our task is to learn how to customize only a line, we will omit the repair of many nodes. In addition, such repairs cannot be done with your own hands, without professional knowledge and experience at home.

Before proceeding with the repair and adjustment of the Chaika sewing machine on your own, it is advisable to do a routine inspection, cleaning, and lubrication. To do this, disconnect the electric motor from the mains, remove the top cover (it is fastened with two screws). Detach the foot, remove the needle and stitch plate, and the bobbin cover. Detach the clipper from the wooden stand or table. Disassemble the bobbin: bobbin case, locking ring, hook. Now remove dust, dirt, fleece from the machine (especially in the shuttle section) and lubricate all rubbing accessible places with machine oil well. Use a tough small glue brush to clean, and a medical disposable syringe is very convenient to lubricate the sewing machine.

2. Use needles designed only for sewing machines Seagull

Thread breakage often occurs with sewing machines such as the Seagull. The first reason leading to thread breakage is a bent needle point, which breaks the thread during its movement. With the help of a magnifying glass, the state of the needle point is very clearly visible. Use needles that are in good condition and intended only for household sewing machines, in accordance with See instructions for the sewing machine Chaika, Podolsk 142
Sewing machine needles must be in perfect condition. The condition of the needle can be determined by running your fingernail along the tip of the needle or using a magnifying glass. Often it is the needle that causes gaps in stitches, needle breakage and other stitching defects.
Select the needle number according to the thickness of the fabric and thread. Do not use home sewing machine needles with a round bulb. Household sewing machine needles have a saw cut on the flask.
For sewing various fabrics and materials, use the appropriate type of needle, for example, for sewing leather, the needle has a four-sided point, which makes it easier to pierce the material and contributes to the formation of a loop on the needle when it is caught by the nose of the shuttle.

3. When entering the needle hole, the needle must not touch it.

Thread breakage can be the result of many malfunctions, for example, if the needle touches it when entering the needle hole, then the thread will periodically break. When sewing a straight stitch, the needle should be in the center of the hole in the needle plate, evenly spaced from its sides, and when performing a zigzag operation, the distance L should be the same with R.
The longitudinal installation of the needle in the center of the needle gap is carried out by displacing the needle bar frame, fixed with two screws on the rocker, in the upper part of the machine (turn the handwheel on the zigzag line and you will see this attachment). Loosen these screws and set the needle on a straight stitch exactly in the center (by moving the needle bar frame). Then check the position of the needle at the left and right injection. The entry of the needle (at the maximum zigzag width), on the right and left, will be evenly spaced from the center. If the needle touches the edge of the hole at the maximum width of the zigzag, contact the master, this case is already for him.

4. The transverse position of the Seagull's needle can spontaneously get lost

The transverse position of the needle is adjusted by a rod, fixed on the plate with two screws, and a plate that presses the needle bar frame to the rod of the bracket.
The adjustment of this unit is quite complicated and requires experience, but, unfortunately, it is this mechanism that can spontaneously get lost during operation, especially in electric sewing machines. Therefore, if you decide to independently repair the Chaika sewing machine, you should learn how to adjust this position of the needle, since the forward displacement of the needle is the cause of its breakage, and the displacement towards the seamstress is the cause of omissions.
Adjusting the crosswise position of the needle requires professional knowledge and experience. If you are not sure that you can do it yourself, contact the master, since the wrong position of the needle can be the cause of misalignment of other nodes, the repair of which cannot be learned from a boring book stuffed with technical terms and diagrams.
Pay attention to the condition of the stitch plate. Hole e must not be "broken" or jagged. It is better to replace such a plate.

5. The position of the shuttle at the Seagull - the reason for skips and looping

The wrong position of the sewing machine hook will lead to thread breakage and other stitching defects, including gaps. Gaps usually appear due to the wrong position of the shuttle at the moment of meeting the needle - the nose of the shuttle does not catch the formed loop, passes by and a gap is formed. Many other factors can also cause skipped stitches on the sewing machine, for example, "twisted" thread, a bent needle, the thickness of the fabric does not match the thickness of the needle, etc., but still the main one is too large a gap between the needle blade and the shuttle nose.

In order to correctly set the position of the meeting between the hook nose and the needle, it is necessary to correctly adjust the position of the hook nose. To get started, turn the machine to one side and find on the left side the shuttle fastener tightened with two M10 bolts. You need to unscrew them with a spanner wrench, in the worst case with an open-end wrench, but not with pliers.
Loosen these two bolts, and carefully, using a powerful screwdriver, move the shuttle mechanism so that the nose of the shuttle is almost flush with the needle blade. Previously, you must already remove the stitch plate, bring the foot and the needle to the hook nose. Use a magnifying glass to better define this gap. In the same way as you brought the nose closer to the needle, only in the opposite direction, you can also distance the stroke with the shuttle in relation to the needle. The shuttle travel rotates on an axis rather than moving back and forth. This is a very important point. It is not necessary to pull it out with a nail puller or hammer it in with a hammer, it easily turns on its axis. It is difficult for an inexperienced person to immediately understand what is at stake, but also to explain too. All that can be added is to sort it out carefully before twisting something, and even more so unscrewing it. There should not be any remaining parts after repairing the Chaika sewing machine.

6. The interaction of the shuttle and the needle of the sewing machine Chaika

Closer and closer we are getting closer to the most important secret of the Chaika sewing machine - why does it meander? But first, let's finish adjusting the gap between the needle and the hook nose, learn something more about the construction of the Chaika sewing machine and its modifications.
At the moment of meeting the nose of the shuttle and the blade of the needle, the following parameters must be observed: the gap between the nose and the blade is approximately 0.1 - 0.15 mm; when the needle comes out of the lower position to a height of 1.8 - 2.0 mm, the nose should come up to it above the needle eye by 1 mm, at least, but not more than 2 mm. By the way, this is a very important point - lifting the needle from the bottom position. This parameter affects the formation of the needle loop and should be paid special attention to. In order for the spout to grab the thread from the needle, it is necessary that a loop is formed, where it goes, engaging it. That is why the needle must first go down, and then, rising a little, already meet the nose of the looper, thus forming a loop for gripping.
The position of the needle is adjusted by the needle bar. There is a special screw on the sleeve holding the needle bar. To roughly understand what is at stake, you can see how its position is regulated on an industrial sewing machine 1022, class 22.
All of the above parameters are suitable for all modifications of Chaika, Podolskaya sewing machines and are universal for almost all shuttle stitch household sewing machines. You can use these recommendations for repairing sewing machines of other brands, except those which will be discussed below.

7. Models of sewing machines Chaika have differences in setting the shuttle move

If you set these parameters, the sewing machine "Seagull" will work relatively well. But, unfortunately, this is not the end of the repair. There are still many other settings, which are quite complicated and necessary for the "Chaika" sewing machine - this is the repair of the shuttle movement. It is there that the reasons for thread looping and such a rare phenomenon for sewing machines are hidden - a breakage of the lower thread. The complexity of the presentation of this material is that for almost any model of the "Chaika" sewing machine, engineers have provided their own specifics of setting up this unit and, moreover, requiring a lot of experience from the performer. We will deliberately not give recommendations on how to configure it, since it is almost impossible to do them yourself. The fitter usually selects one single position of the shuttle nose relative to the needle, varying between three defects: thread looping, lower thread breakage and upper thread breakage.

Briefly, we just note that the main position of the shuttle nose is adjusted in relation to the needle when it is in the left position, with a left prick. Having passed the needle just above the ear, the nose should finish its movement and go further (to the left) behind the needle by 1-3 mm. This parameter is 1-3 mm. for each model of the Seagull "its own" and it depends on it how the line will be formed. If the hook goes too far beyond the needle, it pulls out the excess upper thread and loops appear, if the thread "does not reach" it may break.
Adjust the sewing machine in such a way that the nose of the shuttle firmly grips the loop from the needle during the left and right pricks. If the machine still has defects in stitching, then contact a sewing machine repairman.
In order to change the position of the shuttle (tip over the needle), find in the extreme right part of the shaft driving the shuttle a bushing-lever connected to the main (upper) shaft. Loosen the bushing fastening tightened with the M10 screw with a wrench and turn the shaft a little while holding it with pliers. Use the other hand to hold the flywheel.

Despite the abundance of imported household sewing machines in stores, the Chaika sewing machine remains one of the most popular models of sewing machines for the home. At one time, I had to buy Seagull for a lot of money, and she seems to be good at sewing, but sometimes she twists. Otherwise, everything is fine. All parts of the car are safe and sound and still looks good.

It is very convenient to use a medical disposable syringe for lubrication, just select such a size that it fits in the neck of the container with oil. The needle must be removed when "filling" with oil.

Repair of the sewing machine Chaika

The main malfunction in machines of the "Seagull" type, performing a zigzag stitch and, on its basis, several types of finishing stitches are gaps, looping of the lower and upper thread, as well as thread breakage at the top and bottom. It is these malfunctions and ways to eliminate them that we will consider in this article.

Thread breakage most often occurs with sewing machines such as the Seagull. The first reason leading to thread breakage is the bent point of a blunt needle, which breaks the thread during its movement. With the help of a magnifying glass, the condition of the needle point is very clearly visible.
Use correct sewing machine needles and the Chaika sewing machine, in accordance with the instructions.

Thread breakage can be the result of many malfunctions, for example, if the needle touches it when entering the needle hole, then the thread will periodically break. When sewing a straight stitch, the needle should be in the center of the hole in the needle plate, evenly spaced from its sides, and when performing a zigzag operation, the needle position L should be the same with R.

The longitudinal installation of the needle in the center of the needle gap is carried out by displacing the needle bar frame, fixed with two screws on the rocker, at the top of the machine (scroll the flywheel on the zigzag line and you will see this attachment).
Loosen these screws and set (on a straight stitch) the needle exactly in the center (by moving the needle bar frame). Then check the position of the needle at the left and right pricks. Hopefully the needle entry (at the maximum zigzag width), right and left, will be evenly spaced from center. If it touches the edge of the hole at the maximum width of the zigzag - contact the wizard, this case is already for him.

Adjusting the vertical position of the needle

The transverse position of the needle is adjusted by a rod, fixed on a plate with two screws, and a plate that presses the needle bar frame to the rod of the bracket. Adjusting this unit is quite complicated and requires experience, but, unfortunately, it is this mechanism that can spontaneously get lost during operation, especially the Chaika electric sewing machine. Therefore, if you decide to repair your sewing machine yourself, you should learn how to adjust the position of the needle, since the forward shift of the needle is the cause of its breakage, and the shift away from the seamstress is the cause of omissions.

Adjusting the needle position requires professional knowledge and experience. If you are not sure that you can do it yourself, contact the wizard, as it can cause other nodes to malfunction, the repair of which cannot be learned from a boring book stuffed with technical terms and diagrams.

It can be added that when using a curved needle, notches can form on the nose of the shuttle, which "loosen" the thread and break. The nose of the shuttle must be perfectly smooth and sharp, without roughness. Its condition can be determined by running your fingernail along the edge of the nose or using a magnifying glass. The pressure plate tightening screw must not be serrated, the latch handle must be clearly fixed and its surface must be clean and smooth. The shuttle itself must also be perfectly clean, free of chipping and rusty spots.

Needle bar adjustment and tensioner attachment

When sewing rough fabrics, the needle sometimes moves upward with the needle bar. Skipping stitch appears. In this photo, arrows indicate where the needle bar screw and the upper thread tensioner screw are located.

Incorrect sewing machine hook position leads to thread breakage and other stitching defects, including gaps. Skips usually appear due to the wrong position of the shuttle at the moment of meeting the needle - the nose of the shuttle does not catch the formed loop, it passes by and a skip is formed. Many other factors can be the cause.

In order to correctly set the position of the meeting point of the shuttle and the needle, it is necessary to adjust the position of the shuttle stroke. Loosen the two bolts that secure it and carefully, using a powerful screwdriver, move or delay the stroke together with the shuttle in relation to the needle. The shuttle travel rotates on an axis rather than moving back and forth. This is a very important point. It is not necessary to pull it out with a nail puller or hammer it in with a hammer, it easily turns on its axis. It is difficult for an inexperienced person to immediately understand what is at stake, but it is also very difficult to explain in more detail. Anything else that can be added, sort it out carefully before twisting something, and even more so unscrewing it. There should be no remaining parts after repair.

Parameters for adjusting the shuttle and needle (Seagull)

At the moment of meeting the nose of the shuttle and the blade of the needle, the following parameters must be observed: the gap between the nose and the blade is approximately 0.15 mm; when the needle comes out of the lower position to a height of 1.8 - 2.0 mm, the nose should come up to it above the needle eye by 1 mm, at least, but not more than 3 mm.
By the way, a very important point is lifting the needle from the lower position (1.8 - 2.0 mm). This parameter affects the formation of the needle loop and should be paid special attention to. In order for the spout to grab the thread from the needle, it is necessary that a loop is formed, where it goes, hooking it. That is why the needle must first go down and then, rising a little, already meet the nose of the looper.

The position of the needle is also adjusted by the needle bar; for this there is a screw for attaching it to the bushing under the front cover (see above).

If you set these parameters for adjusting the shuttle, then sewing machine "Seagull" will work relatively fine. But, unfortunately, this is not the end of the repair. There are also many other shuttle settings, which are quite complex and necessary for the "Chaika" sewing machine. It is there that the reasons for thread looping and such a rare phenomenon for sewing machines are hidden - a breakage of the lower thread. The complexity of the presentation of this material is that for almost any model of the "Chaika" sewing machine, engineers have provided their own peculiarities of setting up this unit and, moreover, requiring a lot of experience from the performer. For which I thank them, at least from the sewing machine repairmen. They will not remain without work as long as there are sewing machines "Chaika".

Flywheel friction washer

Sometimes you have to remove the flywheel from the machine. There are only three parts in this node, but many cannot assemble it correctly. This is due to the fact that it would be more logical to insert the petals of the friction washer inside the slot of the shaft, therefore they do this. As a result, the machine starts spinning empty.
The petals should be directed not towards the machine body (shaft), but towards you. Moreover, they can be delivered in "two versions", choose one in which the stop screw will not interfere with tightening the flywheel mount.

Until the end of the nineties - the beginning of the zero, Chaika machines were the most popular sewing, embroidery and tailoring machines in the CIS. Despite the huge demand, it was almost impossible to buy them from official representatives, although they cost quite reasonable money. The reason lies in the difficult economic situation on the territory of our country after the collapse of the USSR - there was no need for organizing mass sales, logistics, establishing markets for the sale of money and personnel, but there was a demand for the product. As a result, the machine became a hit of sales through advertisements (newspaper Iz Ruk v Ruki) and by acquaintance.
Reliable, functional, they have become good helpers for home craftswomen. The aluminum body, steel parts excluded the possibility of frequent breakdowns and wear of units and parts.

The Podolsk Mechanical Plant (where the apparatus was made) at one time was almost the main supplier of household sewing machines in the USSR. Up to 1.5 million of them were produced per year. After the nationalization of the Singer plant, production was resumed only in 1928. The cars were produced in a compact version with a manual drive, an electric motor, packed in casings and leatherette covers. There were cabinet options with drawers for storing related accessories and fixtures. Their quality was low, they quickly fell into disrepair. The process of improvement and development of skills continued until 1963. Soviet machines began to be equipped with a thread tension device, a reverse gear appeared, several types of stitching. In the late 90s, imported "", "Vicky" and others like them poured into the country. Domestic Podolsk sewing machines could not compete in the number of operations, in equipping with automated control.

The model range of "Seagulls" is very diverse. Despite the fact that it was regularly updated, in fact, the devices practically did not differ from each other (only some small units, but this was visible only to specialists). The main set of functions has not changed. The types of electric motors were different - from Russian to Japanese; actuators were produced both hand and foot.

Models

Seagull 2

One of the oldest models - the production of the first copies started back in the 30s of the 20th century. Despite the seeming primitivism, for a novice seamstress or just for a hostess who wants to experiment with sewing, add comfort to the house (sew decorative pillowcases, bedspreads, napkins), the second "Seagull" is an excellent choice. Simple decorative seams are easily obtained on it.

You can buy it from the hands, according to the ads. The average price of a working copy in a normal state is 2000-2500 rubles.

Seagull 3

Ideological successor to the previous model. There are small adjustments in appearance; the first work on ease of use was carried out - two new regulators were added, the working weight of the machine was slightly reduced (about 300g due to the manufacture of some of the materials from lighter metal). In addition to the functions of the previous model, it has 10 special feet for sewing on buttons and darning. The stitch length is now adjustable.

The approximate purchase price of a used version (there are no others in our time, unfortunately) is 1000-1200r ("Troika" is more expensive, mainly due to the fact that there are not enough of them left).

Chaika 132m

The first electromechanical model in the series. The release began in the 60s. Almost all copies that can be bought today were produced between the 1980s and 1992 (the actual year of production ceased), i.e. cars of quite decent quality (of course, it still depends on the accuracy of the previous owner).

On 132M you can successfully sew thick fabrics - fur, tapestry, drape. For freedom of hands, seamstresses use a foot drive. If you change the thread and needle, you can also sew fine fabrics. The main care is the timely lubrication of the units.

If you want to buy it from your hands, be guided by the price of 3500-4000 rubles.

Chaika 134a

The 134 is a purely functionally identical model. There is an obvious improvement in design, work on ergonomics, geometry of the structure; the color of the moving elements - levers and switches was changed (the operating experience of the previous model was taken into account - the hands of the needlewomen could get dirty, and the white handles quickly fell into disrepair)

Price - about 3000r (134-ku is not known as well as 132-ku, and therefore they sell cheaper)

Chaika 142m

Without exaggeration, the best model ever released! 142 is the most advanced apparatus that can do a lot of operations. There is a thread cutter in this model, a thread tension device, an electric motor. It differs from the related model 142 in the structure of the overlooking feet. He copes successfully with sewing products from flax, silk, wool, cotton. There are twin needles for decorative seams. The main types of stitching are straight and zigzag.

You can buy a sewing machine from 4000 rubles. (in a good condition). You should not spare money to purchase it - not a single analog is sold for such a price - Brother, Bernina and others are many times more expensive, but the functionality is the same, and the reliability is lower.

To summarize, it is worth recognizing that the well-worn "heroine" of this article is clearly inferior to modern multifunctional units (Astralux, Pfaff and other analogues of the same price category are more convenient, quieter, and work more harmoniously). However, it has one big advantage - it works great with thick fabrics.

Instructions for the sewing machine Chaika

Primary safety requirements

1) The most basic thing that you should do if you sit down for the first time at the typewriter is to install the needle correctly. Otherwise, you simply cannot start the device. Pay close attention to the first step. Also, do not try to install needles from devices of other brands into the machine - only "native" needles. Example:

2) The handwheel (round rotating wheel) can only be turned counterclockwise, i.e. to myself;

3) Immediately before starting sewing, "pierce" the fabric with the needle, fix it with the foot, and turn the handwheel by hand so that the needle passes through the fabric several times;

4) When carrying out maintenance, do not lubricate the machine parts with sunflower oil, linseed oil, olive oil, etc. - only special technical oil, the GOST of which is indicated in the instructions below;

The proposed instruction for sewing machines Chaika and Podolsk is a simplified version of the manufacturer's manual. This universal instruction can be used for all models of sewing machines Chaika 2, 3, 132, 132m, 134, and Podolsk 142, 142m, Malva and other models.

1. Main units and mechanisms

Remove the top cover (two screws on top of the cover) and lubricate the main components of the front compartment with a few drops of oil. Screw 1 is for adjusting the needle bar into which the needle is inserted. Screw 2 tightens the upper thread tensioner. This fastener often needs to be tightened, since the plastic housing of the tensioner falls through with the screw and the tensioner starts to wobble in the seat.

If the fabric does not advance well, most often you just need to raise the teeth of the rack by setting the switch to (H) - normal, B - embroidery.

When removing the flywheel, be sure to pay attention to the position of the friction washer petals (L). To completely loosen the friction screw holding the flywheel, loosen the screw (K). Adjustment of the tension of the belt of the electric drive or is carried out after loosening the screw (B).

The bobbin winder also needs to be lubricated and sometimes adjusted.

2. Incorrectly selected needle number leads to thread breakage.

Any instruction has recommendations for choosing a needle, depending on the type and thickness of the fabric and the selected thread. Here is a list of recommendations for the Chaika sewing machine, Podolskaya:
Silk, cambric - No. 70; chintz, satin, cambric, linen fabrics - No. 80;
cotton fabrics, coarse calico, flannel, thin woolen fabrics - No. 90;
woolen, suit fabrics - No. 100;
thick woolen fabrics, cloth - No. 110.

The needle must be installed upward until it stops and tightened well with the screw so that it does not jump out during operation. The flat (sawn off) side of the flask on the needle should be facing away from you. And do not install industrial design needles with a round bulb. Such needles lead to skips and even serious damage, in particular, the breakage of the sewing machine needle.

Before threading the bobbin thread, turn the handwheel to the up position, extend the stitch plate, and grasp the bobbin case latch with two fingers of your left hand and pull it out of the machine shuttle. By the way, when installing it back, a faint click should be heard. If the latch does not engage, the bobbin case may turn axially and break the needle.
The thread is wound under the spring plate of the cap, which creates tension on the lower thread. The tension is adjusted with a screw holding this plate. Turning the screw to the left - the tension is released, and vice versa. Only unscrew no more than half a turn, otherwise the screw may pop out and get lost.
The bobbin thread should come out freely without effort, but with a slight perceptible tension. The bobbin thread tension is rarely adjusted. Basically, it needs to be changed when sewing too thin fabrics or knitwear, as well as when using very thin threads.

4. Management of the sewing machine Chaika, Podolsk

Often the bobbin case of a seagull sewing machine is called a hook or bobbin. This is wrong, every detail has its own name.

To sew a normal straight stitch, the zigzag width lever must be set to "0" and the stitch selection switch must be set to the straight stitch. Set the desired stitch length, usually 3 or 4 mm, and thread the threads correctly. The shuttle course consists of a shuttle and a bobbin case. The bobbin with the bobbin thread is inserted into the bobbin case.

Before starting work, check in what position the teeth of the rack are. For sewing medium fabrics, the shift lever should be in the "H" position - normal. "B" - embroidery, that is, the teeth of the rack during operation of the sewing machine should not come out of the needle plate and not advance the fabric. "Ш" - silk, thin fabrics.
The reference point for the correct position of the teeth of the rack is the position of these letters on top.
To sew a zigzag stitch, set the zigzag width to "0 - 5" and select zigzag in the stitch type selector. Do not forget to reduce the stitch length to 1 - 3 mm, otherwise the zigzag will be too thin.

The thread tension for zigzag sewing needs to be adjusted additionally. Adjust the upper thread tension so that both threads are evenly pulled into the fabric. Note that pulling the upper thread too tight will cause the fabric to pucker when sewing. You may need to adjust the bobbin thread tension as well.

5. Instructions for lubricating sewing machines Seagull

The trademark knock of the sewing machine Seagull occurs in the node (L). The bevel gear periodically touches the machine bed during operation. Theoretically, knocking can be eliminated, but only a master can do it. However, you can reduce the noise of this unit yourself if the teeth of the gears are lubricated with a thick grease, for example, graphite grease.

Depending on the operating conditions of the sewing machine, lubrication and cleaning should be carried out periodically, but at least once every six months. Only use oil for lubrication that is specially designed for lubricating sewing machines. Other types of oils can cause heavy running.

The instruction of the Chaika sewing machine can be used as an operating manual for any models of sewing machines that perform a zigzag stitch of the Chaika type: Chaika 2, Chaika 3, Chaika 134. This instruction for the Chaika sewing machine is also suitable for sewing machines Malva and the Podolsk brand: Podolsk 142, Podolsk 142M and others 1. The sewing machines of the Chaika type, Podolsk are arranged in the same way. The operation and device of the Podolsk and Chaika sewing machine is practically the same type, therefore this operating manual is suitable for all models of these sewing machines, including the Malva sewing machine. They have the same structure and differ only in the presence of additional types of zigzag stitching. Some Chaika and Podolskaya models have an additional device (copier) for this and, accordingly, a lever for switching modes of its operation. The shuttle device, threading and adjustment parameters of the units and mechanisms of these sewing machines are practically the same, with the exception of setting some settings for the shuttle operation parameters (depending on the machine model). For details on how to set up and perform minor repairs of sewing machines such as the Seagull, see other articles in the section dedicated to the repair of sewing machines. 2. Controls and components of the machine Chaika, Podolsk 142 1. Shuttle device. 2. Platform. 3. Stitch plate. 4. Pressing foot. 5. Needle bar. i6. Presser foot lifter. 7. Upper thread tension dial. 8. Top and front covers. 9. Thread take-up lever. 10. Tension washers. 11. Index of the type of stitches. 12. Zigzag width indicator. 13. Spool pin. 14. Winder. 15. Flywheel. 16. Needle bias lever. 17. Zigzag handle. 18. Lever for reverse feed. 19. Knob of the stitch length regulator. 20. Knob of the comb lift regulator. 21. Material engine. 22. Panel of pictures. 23. Knob for switching the copier unit. 3. Types of fabrics for sewing, threads and needles for a sewing machine Chaika, Podolsk Thin silk, cambric - needle No. 70, thread - 65 Sheets, calico, chintz, satin, silk, linen fabrics - needle No. 80, threads - 65 Heavy cotton fabrics, calico, flannel, fine woolen fabrics, heavy types of silk - needle no. 90 Woolen suits - needle no. 100 Thick woolen coats, cloth - needle no. 110 Needle 1 must be inserted into the needle holder 2 (with the needle bar in the upper position) up to the stop and fasten with screw 3. The flat side of the flask 4 (flat) on the needle should face in the opposite direction from the working person (Fig. 4) 4. Threading the upper and lower thread. Instructions for the sewing machine Chaika, Podolsk Threading the upper thread Pull the spool pin 13 up to the stop from the sleeve cover. Bring the thread take-up eye to the upper position by turning the handwheel. Raise the presser foot. Place a spool of thread on spool 13. Thread the upper thread in this sequence. Into the holes 7 and 6 of the thread guide, between the washers 8 of the tension adjuster, then upwards into the eye 4 of the take-up spring, down under the thread take-up hook 3, up through the hole of the thread take-up lever 5, down into the thread guide 2, into the thread guide 1 on the needle bar and insert into the eye needles 9 from the side of the worker. Threading the bobbin thread Before threading the bobbin thread, pull the bobbin case and bobbin out of the bobbin by turning the handwheel to bring the needle up. Pull out the slide plate, grasp the bobbin case latch lever with two fingers of your left hand, and remove the bobbin case. 5. Winding the thread. Instructions for the sewing machine Chaika, Podolsk Wind the thread on the bobbin using a winder. When winding thread onto a bobbin, the handwheel of the machine must be idling. To do this, loosen the friction screw 1 (Fig. 8). Slide the bobbin onto the bobbin spindle 2 so that the spindle spring enters the bobbin slot. Place the spool 1 with thread on the spool pin. Thread the thread from the spool between the tension washers 4, as shown in Fig. 9, and then wind a few turns on the bobbin by hand. Press the winder against the flywheel. Next, wind up by rotating the flywheel using the drive. When the bobbin is fully wound, the rubber ring of the winder stops contacting the flywheel and winding stops. Before removing the bobbin, the winder must be swiveled to the left of the stop 3. Thread the wound bobbin into the bobbin case and thread under the tension spring, as shown in fig. 10. Leave a free end of thread 10-15 cm long. Insert the bobbin case with the threaded bobbin into the hook. In this case, the needle should be in the upper position. Push the bobbin case with the bobbin onto pin 3 of the bobbin as far as it will go. In this case, pin 1 of the bobbin case must enter the slot 2 (fig. 11). 6. Machine control. Instructions for the sewing machine Chaika, Podolsk When the bobbin case is correctly inserted, the latch lever should be in a spring-loaded state and, when opened, try to return to its original position. Before starting sewing, the bobbin thread must be removed onto the throat plate, for this, holding the end of the needle thread, turn the handwheel so that the needle drops into the needle hole, grabs the lower hook thread and rises to the upper position. Use the upper thread to pull the shuttle thread onto the throat plate (fig. 12) and place the ends of the upper and lower threads under the presser foot as shown in fig. 13. For sewing with a simple straight stitch, align the number 0 on handle 17 with pointer 12 (fig. 1). The handle 23 can be in any position. The stitch length is set by turning knob 19 (Fig. 1) until the number aligns with the indicator on the panel. The reverse direction of material feeding for the bartack is carried out by pressing the lever 18 (Fig. 1) down to the stop. The backfeed pitch over 2.5 mm remains constant within 2.5 mm. Adjustment of the height of the rack is carried out by the regulator 1 (Fig. 14). The regulator is operated with the slide plate removed. For thick fabrics, the adjuster is set to the H mark (normal), for thin fabrics to the W mark (silk), and for embroidery and darning, to the B mark (embroidery). The letters should be visible from above. To switch to zigzag, decorative and target stitches, knob 23 (Fig. 1) must be set to the required stitch type by lightly pressing and turning. By turning the knob 17, align the number 5 with the pointer 12. The pattern for finishing the garments will be clearer with a smaller stitching pitch. Offset stitching is used when performing special operations, for example, when sewing buttonholes, sewing in "zippers", etc. Knob 16 is used to shift the stitching. ... To check the sewing quality, it is recommended that you sew a test stitch on a piece of the fabric you want and adjust the thread tension if necessary. The tension of the upper thread is adjusted using the tension regulator. The weaving of the upper and lower threads should take place in the middle of the sewing materials. If the weave thread is on top when the stitch is being formed, release the upper thread tension. If the thread is woven at the bottom, tighten the upper thread tension. When sewing through thick or hard places, sew slowly and turn the handwheel by hand. When sewing thin materials such as silk, etc., we recommend pulling the fabric slightly behind the foot to avoid puckering at the seam. For normal operation of the machine, it is necessary to start sewing in the following sequence: pull the threads tucked under the foot (lower and upper) and hold them, lower the needle into the material (by hand rotating the handwheel towards you), lower the foot and make 2-3 stitches. Then you can release the threads and continue sewing. After finishing sewing, raise the presser foot, pull the material to be sewn away from you and cut the threads against the thread cutter on the presser bar (fig. 12, position 1), leaving the end of the cast 8 - 10 centimeters long. 7. Care, lubrication. Instructions for the sewing machine Chaika, Podolsk To ensure easy running of the machine and prevent wear, all places indicated by arrows should be lubricated with one or two drops of industrial oil I-20A GOST 20799-75. Lubrication points of the machine head (Fig. 17) Lubrication points of the zigzag mechanism (Fig. 19) Cleaning and lubrication of the shuttle (Fig. 20) Heavy movement of the machine, and sometimes jamming, can occur from contamination of the shuttle stroke. The course is clogged with scraps of thread, fleece, dust. See also Lubricating Sewing Machines To clean the hook stroke, the needle bar must be in the up position. Pull out the bobbin case 1, by turning the spring lock towards you, remove the trim ring 2, take out the hook 3. Carefully clean the nest of the hook 4 with a brush-brush from dust, dirt and threads. In this case, it is not allowed to use metal objects for cleaning, so as not to damage the cleanliness of the working surface. The direction for the hook in the travel housing and the winder spindle are also lubricated with 1-2 drops of oil. Repair and adjustment The sewing machine "Chaika" is perhaps the most popular model of a sewing machine for the home, despite the abundance of imported household sewing machines in stores. At one time, I had to buy Seagull for a lot of money, and it seems to sew well, but only sometimes it twists, otherwise everything is safe and sound. Indeed, it is almost impossible to break the Chaika sewing machine. The body is made of aluminum, the parts are all metal, the components are strong and reliable - everything is in the style of Soviet technology. But, unfortunately, the line loops almost "from birth", sometimes gaps appear in the line, especially on the zigzag and knocks when sewing like a machine gun. The manufacturer's kit includes instructions for the Chaika sewing machine, which details how to use the machine and perform various operations, there is even an electric motor circuit, a pedal device, but not a word on how to set up and perform at least minor repairs of the Chaika sewing machine. We will try to fill this gap in the instructions and give several recommendations on how to repair the Chaika sewing machine with our own hands. or rather the thread, as well as breaking it from above and below. Sewing machine Chaika, Chaika M, Chaika 142, Chaika 132, Chaika 134, Chaika 132 m, Chaika 142 M, Chaika 143, Chaika 3, Chaika 2 and Podolsk 142, Podolsk 125-1; Malva and others - all these machines have the same device and instructions for use and setting, so their repair is almost the same, with the exception of copier repair (depending on the machine model) and setting the shuttle settings. But since our task is to learn how to customize only a line, we will omit the repair of many nodes. In addition, such repairs cannot be done by hand without professional knowledge and experience at home. Care, lubrication of the Chaika sewing machine Before proceeding with the repair and adjustment of the Chaika sewing machine on your own, it is advisable to do a routine inspection, cleaning, lubrication. To do this, disconnect the electric motor from the mains, remove the top cover (it is fastened with two screws). Detach the foot, remove the needle and stitch plate, and the bobbin cover. Detach the clipper from the wooden stand or table. Disassemble the bobbin: bobbin case, locking ring, hook. Now remove dust, dirt, fleece from the machine (especially in the shuttle section) and lubricate all rubbing accessible places with machine oil well. Use a tough small glue brush to clean, and it is very convenient to use a medical disposable syringe to lubricate the sewing machine. 2. Use only needles designed for the Chaika sewing machine Thread breakage is common with Chaika sewing machines. The first reason leading to thread breakage is a bent needle point, which breaks the thread during its movement. With the help of a magnifying glass, the state of the needle point is very clearly visible. Use needles that are in good condition and intended only for household sewing machines, in accordance with the instructions for the sewing machine Chaika, Podolsk 142 Sewing machine needles must be in perfect condition. The condition of the needle can be determined by running your fingernail along the tip of the needle or using a magnifying glass. Often it is the needle that causes gaps in stitches, needle breakage and other stitching defects. Select the needle number according to the thickness of the fabric and thread. Do not use home sewing machine needles with a round bulb. Household sewing machine needles have a saw cut on the flask. For sewing various fabrics and materials, use the appropriate type of needle, for example, for sewing leather, the needle has a four-sided point, which makes it easier to pierce the fabric and contributes to the formation of a loop on the needle when it is gripped by the hook nose. 3. The needle should not touch it when entering the needle hole. Thread breakage can be the result of many malfunctions, for example, if the needle touches it when entering the needle hole, then the thread will periodically break. When sewing a straight stitch, the needle should be located in the center of the hole in the needle plate, evenly spaced from its sides, and when performing a zigzag operation, the distance L should be the same as R. at the top of the machine (turn the flywheel on the zigzag line and you will see this mount). Loosen these screws and set the needle on a straight stitch exactly in the center (by moving the needle bar frame). Then check the position of the needle at the left and right injection. The entry of the needle (at the maximum zigzag width), on the right and left, will be evenly spaced from the center. If the needle touches the edge of the hole at the maximum width of the zigzag - contact the expert, this case is already for him. 4. The transverse position of the needle at the Seagull can spontaneously get lost The transverse position of the needle is adjusted by a rod fixed on the plate with two screws, and a plate that presses the needle bar frame to the bracket rod. The adjustment of this unit is quite complicated and requires experience, but, unfortunately, it is this mechanism that can spontaneously get lost during operation, especially in electric sewing machines. Therefore, if you decide to independently repair the Chaika sewing machine, you should learn how to adjust this position of the needle, since the forward displacement of the needle is the cause of its breakage, and the displacement towards the seamstress is the cause of omissions. Adjusting the crosswise position of the needle requires professional knowledge and experience. If you are not sure that you can do it yourself, contact the master, since the wrong position of the needle can be the cause of misalignment of other nodes, the repair of which cannot be learned from a boring book stuffed with technical terms and diagrams. Pay attention to the condition of the stitch plate. Hole e must not be "broken" or jagged. It is better to replace such a plate. 5. The position of the shuttle at the Seagull is the cause of skips and looping Incorrect position of the shuttle of the sewing machines of the Seagull leads to a break in the thread and the appearance of other defects in the stitching, including gaps. Gaps usually appear due to the wrong position of the shuttle at the moment of meeting the needle - the nose of the shuttle does not catch the formed loop, passes by and a gap is formed. Many other factors can also cause skipped stitches on the sewing machine, for example, "twisted" thread, a bent needle, the thickness of the fabric does not match the thickness of the needle, etc., but still the main one is too large a gap between the needle blade and the shuttle nose. In order to correctly set the position of the meeting between the hook nose and the needle, it is necessary to correctly adjust the position of the hook nose. To get started, turn the machine to one side and find on the left side the shuttle fastener tightened with two M10 bolts. You need to unscrew them with a spanner wrench, in the worst case with an open-end wrench, but not with pliers. Loosen these two bolts, and carefully, using a powerful screwdriver, move the shuttle mechanism so that the nose of the shuttle is almost flush with the needle blade. Previously, you must already remove the stitch plate, bring the foot and the needle to the hook nose. Use a magnifying glass to better define this gap. In the same way as you brought the nose closer to the needle, only in the opposite direction, you can also distance the stroke with the shuttle in relation to the needle. The shuttle travel rotates on an axis rather than moving back and forth. This is a very important point. It is not necessary to pull it out with a nail puller or hammer it in with a hammer, it easily turns on its axis. It is difficult for an inexperienced person to immediately understand what is at stake, but also to explain too. All that can be added is to sort it out carefully before twisting something, and even more so unscrewing it. There should be no remaining parts after the repair of the sewing machine Chaika. 6. The interaction of the shuttle and the needle of the sewing machine Chaika But first, let's finish adjusting the gap between the needle and the hook nose, learn something more about the construction of the Chaika sewing machine and its modifications. At the moment of meeting the nose of the shuttle and the blade of the needle, the following parameters must be observed: the gap between the nose and the blade is approximately 0.1 - 0.15 mm; when the needle comes out of the bottom position to a height of 1. 8 - 2.0 mm, the nose should come up to it above the eye of the needle by 1 mm, at least, but not more than 2 mm. By the way, this is a very important point - lifting the needle from the bottom position. This parameter affects the formation of the needle loop and should be paid special attention to. In order for the spout to grab the thread from the needle, it is necessary that a loop is formed, where it goes, engaging it. That is why the needle must first go down, and then, rising a little, already meet the nose of the looper, thus forming a loop for gripping. The position of the needle is adjusted by the needle bar. There is a special screw on the sleeve holding the needle bar. To roughly understand what is at stake, you can see how its position is regulated on an industrial sewing machine 1022, class 22. All of the above parameters are suitable for all modifications of Chaika, Podolskaya sewing machines and are universal for almost all shuttle stitch household sewing machines. You can use these recommendations for repairing sewing machines of other brands, except those which will be discussed below. 7. Chaika sewing machine models have differences in the setting of the shuttle stroke If you set these parameters, the sewing machine "Chaika" will work relatively normally. But, unfortunately, this is not the end of the repair. There are still many other settings, which are quite complicated and necessary for the "Chaika" sewing machine - this is the repair of the shuttle movement. It is there that the reasons for thread looping and such a rare phenomenon for sewing machines are hidden - a breakage of the lower thread. The complexity of the presentation of this material is that for almost any model of the "Chaika" sewing machine, engineers have provided their own specifics of setting up this unit and, moreover, requiring a lot of experience from the performer. We will deliberately not give recommendations on how to configure it, since it is almost impossible to do them yourself. The fitter usually selects one single position of the shuttle nose relative to the needle, varying between three defects: thread looping, lower thread breakage and upper thread breakage. Briefly, we just note that the main position of the shuttle nose is adjusted in relation to the needle when it is in the left position, with a left prick. Having passed the needle just above the ear, the nose should finish its movement and go further (to the left) behind the needle by 1-3 mm. This parameter is 1-3 mm. for each model of the Seagull "its own" and it depends on it how the line will be formed. If the hook goes too far beyond the needle, it pulls out the excess upper thread and loops appear, if the thread "does not reach" it may break. Adjust the sewing machine in such a way that the nose of the shuttle firmly grips the loop from the needle during the left and right pricks. If the machine still has defects in stitching, then contact a sewing machine repairman. In order to change the position of the shuttle (tip over the needle), find in the extreme right part of the shaft driving the shuttle a bushing-lever connected to the main (upper) shaft. Loosen the bushing fastening tightened with the M10 screw with a wrench and turn the shaft a little while holding it with pliers. Use the other hand to hold the flywheel. More details.

Among the fierce competition from imported products, domestic goods still managed to defend their place. Many devices, equipment, even cars - mind you, on the move even today, after so many years! Surprisingly, Soviet things practically do not wear out - they serve us faithfully even in the most difficult times, like, for example, the Chaika sewing machine, and whose operating instructions are given below.

Advantages and disadvantages of the sewing machine "Chaika"

In the past, a lot of money would have to be paid for this "unit" - in the days of our grandmothers it was highly valued. And it was not in vain that they asked for a high price: even today it is not easy to break or disable such a machine. Its main advantage is stamina and endurance. The aluminum case prevents damage to the internal mechanisms, all parts of which are made of real, durable metal. All units and fasteners of the machine are made accurately and reliably.

But even with such "Spartan health" the "Seagull" sewing machine can sometimes fail: it happens that the line "loops" (especially when performing the "zigzag" line). You can put up with this, because it does not happen very often. But when it really pesters, even the instructions supplied by the manufacturer do not become a huge help: unfortunately, there is almost not a word in it about the repair of the device. Perhaps because it should be carried out by a trained and experienced person - an expert in "sewing machines". But there are also such problems that you can fix yourself.

Main components of the mechanism

Before using the Chaika sewing machine, the unit must be properly adjusted. For this:

• Remove the top cover of the machine (with the two screws on top). Use a few drops of oil to lubricate the major assemblies and front mountings. Pay attention to this compartment, it contains screws 1 and 2, which must be tightened from time to time so that the tensioner does not "ride" in the slot.
• Next, work with the rail (especially if you notice that the fabric does not move well during work). The teeth of the rail can be raised and it is best to set it to the H position, which stands for Normal (B stands for Embroidery).
• The tension of the drive belt will need to be adjusted. To do this, loosen the friction screw (it holds the flywheel). Be extremely careful with these components and pay attention to the position of the petals.
• Lubricate the bobbin winder as well.
• Select the correct needle number

The Seagull sewing machine will not work well if you do not select the correct needle. A needle that is too thin "rubs" the thread and tears it. Too thick - can break the fiber, which can cause the seams to creep (especially after washing). You also need a special needle for fabrics such as stretch, jeans, leather.

• silk, cambric - No. 70;
• chintz, satin, cambric, linen fabrics - No. 80;
• cotton, calico, flannel, fine wool - No. 90;
• wool, suiting fabric - No. 100;
• thick wool, cloth - No. 110.

Install the needle correctly

It is important that the needle does not dangle in the opening, therefore, when installing, make sure that it is installed upward as far as it will go, and tighten the screw firmly (this way you can prevent the needle from jumping off, which is especially dangerous during operation). The sawn side of the needle should look away from you (needles with round flasks should not be used at all - they spoil the quality of work and make the machine less durable).

How to refuel the Chaika sewing machine?

When threading the upper thread, it is only important to secure it tightly. The operation of the entire machine depends on whether the thread is threaded, how it stands through the compensation spring. Pay attention to this - otherwise the thread will start to "wag".

In order to properly arrange the bobbin thread, you first need to remove the bobbin from the device. The thread should be tightened under the spring plate of the cap and create the required tension (turning the screw to the left is weaker, to the right - vice versa). Note that the tension should not be strong, but perceptible. You will not have to change the thread tension often, only in those cases when the seam will have to be made on thin fabrics.

Sewing machine "Chaika": instruction manual

First, let's figure out how to make a straight stitch. There is such an element - the zigzag width lever, and so it needs to be set to zero. Next - set the required stitch length (3-4 cm), thread the threads. Carefully inspect the rack teeth: set the shift lever to the H (normal) position. For silk / delicate fabrics, set to W (silk).

For a zigzag stitch, the zigzag width lever is "0-5" and the stitch length is 1-3 mm. Attention! When sewing a zigzag stitch, you need to additionally adjust the thread tension so that it is equal.

Lubrication of sewing machines "Chaika"

Lubrication in this type of sewing machine is carried out in most cases in order to at least slightly reduce the generated noise (unfortunately, this is an unpleasant detail of working with the "Chaika" machine). It is impossible to completely eliminate the sound made by the mechanism at home. But if the teeth of the gears are lubricated with thick graphite grease, the knocking will become quieter.

It is undesirable to perform ordinary lubrication (and cleaning) more often than once every six months. It is mainly worth paying attention to the joints of several metal parts.
So, first, remove the top cover and the vaner (bottom protection) to get to the "insides". Use only proven oil, which is specially produced for lubricating sewing machines. At the same time, even the highest quality oil will not save you from greasy stains on the fabric if you overdo it. Remember, 1-3 drops of oil - and it's done.

The tools you will need for cleaning and lubrication are a regular glue brush (to clean the hook and shuttle compartment) and a regular medical syringe (for even lubrication).

The sewing machine "Seagull" can perform a straight line, "zigzag" and on its basis several other types of finishing stitches. Nowadays, you can buy a typewriter only with a pedal (electric drive), foot models (with a belt) were produced in Soviet times.