Do-it-yourself hip roof. Hip roofs: the device of the rafter system

Such designs are outwardly very attractive and can decorate any building. But aesthetics is only one of the advantages of hip roofs. Specialists are more attracted by their high strength and reliability, as well as their ability to withstand even strong wind loads. However, the construction of such roofs is a rather laborious process that requires certain knowledge.

Features of the hip rafter system

The appearance of the hip structure differs from the usual one. Its two slopes are made in the form of triangles (" hips"). The other two slopes are trapezoidal. If the slopes from the sides do not reach the cornice, but break off, this design is called half-hip(Dutch).

The streamlined shape of the hip system and the absence of vertical end walls make it possible to reliably protect the roof from the effects of winds. Eaves overhangs are also less susceptible to destruction in it.

Hip roof can withstand even violent winds

A similar design has a different type of rafters, called oblique diagonal... They are not only longer than traditional ones, but also carry a much greater (1.5 times) load than in conventional systems.

Since their length is much longer than usual, their "pairing" (doubling) is allowed. With the help of such a double cross-section, the system, which receives additional strength, will be able to withstand even significant snow loads.

The connection of wooden beams when doubling is carried out overlap... They are fastened with overhead metal corners. Support cuts are made at the joints. At the junction of wooden elements, 1.5-meter pads should be installed, which are attached in several places.

Rafters overlap

The diagonal rafters are supported wives- shortened rafters of the slopes. They are used to support the roof section between the rafters and the eaves.

Fastening the wives

Advice. The hip structure is much more complicated than the classic gable or hipped roof. Since any errors in the location and angle of inclination of its rafters are fraught with serious consequences, it is better to use ready-made schemes for calculations, use computer programs or contact specialists. Indeed, with incorrect angles of inclination, a skew and even collapse of the entire structure is possible.

Installation of rafters

1. At the first stage, the mauerlat- support for rafters, which is logs or beams with a cross section of 10 to 15 cm, laid along the perimeter of the outer wall. Its installation is similar to the Mauerlat device in traditional roofs. In brick houses anchors for its fastening, they are already laid in the masonry. In wooden houses, it is attached to corners, pins, wire or staples. For reliability, such a frame at the corners is tied with brackets or metal corners. Waterproofing is laid under the Mauerlat - a layer of roofing material.

Mounting the Mauerlat to a brick wall

2. For the device of rafters, a special marking is applied to the Mauerlat with step 60 cm... In this case, the step of the short rafters is similar to the distance between the side ones.

3. For the rafters, beams with a cross section of 10 to 20 cm are selected. Since the rafters take on the greatest load, their cross section should be the largest. At the same time, the ideal the ratio of their width to height: one to two (such beams will be less subject to deformation when dry). Ridge beams can also have a smaller section.

4. The rafters are attached at the corners of the Mauerlat with two bars with a section of 50 × 100 mm. Installation begins from the shortest rafter.

The location of the rafters in the hip roof

5. Fastening them to the maurelat can be carried out using staples, corners or nails... They are attached to the ridge with special bevels and are additionally fixed. metal plates.

6. At the rafters in the anchorage points, saw off the corners... It's better to use a template for this. At the points of attachment to the Mauerlat, the cut should be equal to 1/3 of the thickness of the board. The fastening of the rafters is similar to the side rafters, so they can be cut at the same angle. Diagonal cut is done on site.

Trimming rafters

7. First, the side rafters are arranged, and then the central (hip) rafters are mounted. It runs along the entire structure from the bottom of the rafters to the end of the ridge. Since such a beam is of considerable length, it requires the support provided by support leg.

The simplest hip roof scheme

8. Since the rafters located in the corners come directly to the two central ones, it is necessary to make a cut with a double bevel.

9. The last to be attached are the diagonal rafters. All of them must be of equal length, and their thickness should be equal to the ridge girder (the upper support that unites the rafters).

10. If the length of the rafter legs is not enough for the overhang of the roof, you can use the so-called "filly" - boards nailed to the rafters.

11. The lathing for the roof is attached to the finished truss structure.

Advice. It is better to dock the people not with a cut, but with the help of 50x50 mm cranial bars, which are attached at the bottom of the rafters on both sides. In this case, the cross-section becomes T-shaped, which makes it possible to significantly increase the rigidity and load-bearing capacity of the system.

One of the most unusual Russian latitudes to this day is considered to be a hip roof - a structure with four inclined slopes. At the same time, any private house with such a stylish top looks solid in a European way.

Have you settled on this option? Then, if you have never delved into the peculiarities of the structure of such a roof, we will try to reveal to you in as much detail as possible all the secrets and features of its structure, hidden pros and cons that few people know about.

And this is important, because oh How competently the roof of the house is arranged depends on how effectively he himself will cope with his task of maintaining the comfort and safety of household members!

The hip roof is a four-slope rafter system, where two end slopes are necessarily triangular in shape and are called hips, and the longer ones can be either triangular or trapezoidal.

A hip roof differs from a gable roof in that it does not have gables, and therefore there are no straight windows - only inclined ones. Such dormer windows are necessary to provide high-quality lighting and ventilation of the attic.

The classic hip roof has a high slope angle. Although there is also a deviation from this statement: some modern materials allow you to build hip roofs with a minimum angle of inclination, which even seem flat from the street side.

Here is an interesting high-quality video on this topic:

Style and design issues: is it right for every home?

With a skillful selection of roofing material, the hip roof looks especially stylish and architecturally expressed. Such ones are very popular in European countries, and it is from such tops of houses that they recognize the flavor of a Scandinavian or Swedish town.

The hip roof is ideal for European-style homes, especially those with blue, gray-blue or chocolate colored roofs. And, by the way, among professional designers and architects it is believed that it is not very successful to mount a bright hip roof on a house - this is a sign of a lack of taste.

As for aesthetics, a hip roof looks rather ridiculous for a large multi-storey building, because such a high superstructure (if the roof can be called that) makes the structure even more bulky. As an exception, we will only name a French chateau or projects similar in size to them.

Four stingrays in all their variety

Let's take a look at the main types of hip roof:

• Classic four-slope. Its construction uses straight rafters, and corner ribs extend from the ridge. In this design, the overhangs are located at the same height.
• Dutch semi-hip. Here, the opposite slopes are already shortened, by about 1.5-3 times. This design is good for installing vertical windows in the attic, which are usually so badly lacking.
• Danish half-hip. This design has vertical gables, below which the end slope is mounted. Triangular windows are often used here as gables.
• Broken strong-willed hip construction. These are slopes of different sizes, which are also at different angles. Such a roof looks voluminous, and it uses the area of ​​the inner attic more rationally. But both the design and the installation are a little more complicated than that of the classic one.
• And finally hipped roof. This can only be installed on a square-shaped house. In this case, all slopes have the regular shape of an isosceles triangle, and all ridges converge at one point from above.

Also one of the popular types of hip roof is L-shaped. For the first time such a roof appeared in Italy, back in the 19th century. And over time in the United States, when houses began to be built in the style of a ranch.She has four slightly inclined slopes, which form the shape of the letter "G" due to the perpendicular connection to each other.

It's just perfect for a home that needs to be protected from strong winds. In addition, in hot weather from the sun's rays, it is perfectly covered by the protruding visor. And finally, due to the continuity of the eaves of the L-shaped hip roof, it is quite easy to install gutters.

After all, this architecture has its own secrets: the visor of the veranda always repeats the outlines of the large wing of the L-shaped roof. In this case, such a roof looks just great!But there are also disadvantages to this design - a reduction in the area of ​​the attic space, and quite significantly.

As you can see, each form has its own advantages, both in terms of style and aesthetics. This is exactly the whole hip roof: no architect will tell you how to make the project right, whether it is worth leaving small gables at the bottom or at the top, like the Danish and Dutch roofs. Focus only on your own sense of comfort and what kind of content and design you will have attic.

Advantages and disadvantages in terms of functionality

Due to the complexity of the construction, the hip roof is considered one of the daring choices.Among the minuses, we note the higher cost of materials than that of a gable or single-pitched roof, an increased laboriousness of laying roofing materials and the need for accurate knowledge.

It is also believed that it is in the hip roof that the internal under-roof space develops more and much less space remains in order to put furniture or appliances there. And now - about the pros.

The modern device of the hip roof with reliable fastening of roofing materials allows achieving high resistance to air flow, since there are no vertical walls. Therefore, in regions with strong winds, here both the roofing and the rafter system itself are much less susceptible to destruction.

Also, the hip roof also perfectly resists heavy rainfall, snow caps and therefore is the best suited for areas with adverse weather conditions. The whole secret is that the corner ribs have increased rigidity, due to which the roof itself is not subject to significant deformation, in contrast to the gable.

If a hip roof is equipped with large overhangs around the entire perimeter, the facade of the building will always be reliably protected from getting wet, whereas such an effect cannot be achieved with either a gable roof or a gable roof.

Another important point: due to the fact that the surface planes of the slopes are almost the same and large enough, the attic space under the roof warms up evenly, due to which a pleasant temperature regime is created in it. This is how the right choice of the shape of the roof solves one of the most pressing problems in one fell swoop!

Hip roof construction process

Now a little about the process of building such a roof. It begins with the installation of vertical supports, on which a ridge girder is mounted on top. After that, the resulting horizontal is measured and proceeded to the installation of the diagonal rafters.

To do this, follow these instructions:

• Step 1.The lower part of the rafters at the undercut is connected to the strapping beam at the corners of the structure, and the upper ones are fastened together using a ridge beam. Moreover, at their ends there should be special corner cuts, which will make it possible to achieve the most tight connection.
• Step 2. The exposed rafters need to be reinforced with vertical additional supports, the upper end of which should be cut at the same angle as the slope of the rafters.
• Step 3. Between each other, the supports and the rafters are fastened with metal plates.
• Step 4. Now we install the side roof rafters, in increments of 600 mm. This step is ideal for most standard insulation.
• Step 5. The bottom part with a notch must be fixed to the strapping bar and fixed with metal brackets.
• Step 6. The next step is to install the side roof rafters, the installation step is 600 mm. This step is preferable, since most of the standard insulation has this width. We act here in a similar way.
• Step 7. The bottom part with a notch is attached to the strapping bar; you can use metal brackets or corners to fix it. The upper ends are connected above the ridge girder using plates. In order for the maximum rafter to fit snugly to the ridge girder, make a small cut on it at a right angle.

The following illustration will reveal this process in more detail:

As a final step - the installation of shortened rafters, which are also called rafters. The step is the same, 600 m. On one side, they should rest on the strapping beam, and the other should be connected to the diagonal rafter.

In the middle of the hip slope there will be a central rafter, which, according to the rules, should adjoin both legs of the corner rafters at once. At the end of their upper part, there should be a double Mauerlat around the perimeter of the entire outer roof.

In such a system, the diagonal child's nipples have the greatest length and serve as the main companions. For such rafters, the length of a standard bar is not enough, and therefore the corner ribs are made from paired overlapping bars.

In this case, ordinary rafters are attached to the Mauerlat perpendicularly. Additionally, for strength, they are pulled together with crossbars and a coupler. To secure the racks on both sides, struts are used.

There is also such an additional detail as a sprengel - a special detail that comes from the corner of the Mauerlat and connects the walls with an angle:

Read more about the hip roof rafter system.

Stage II. Laying the base

Each roofing material dictates its own requirements for the base. So, for modern tiles, a frequent crate is suitable, for long folded sheets - a rarer one, and for soft and roll coatings, continuous and even slopes are generally needed, as here:

At the same time, for other types of roofing, a strong crate is needed, which is calculated according to special formulas. In the classic version, it looks like this:

Stage III. Waterproof and wind insulation

To ensure waterproofing of the hip roof, we advise you to take a strong, modern membrane, which is equipped with two self-adhesive tapes. They are located on the inside of the roll and provide reliable protection against leaks.

Firstly, this significantly reduces the cost of laying the material, because here you will not need to purchase a special roofing tape to seal the overlaps.

Secondly, on the ridge it will be easy to throw the membrane over the ridge to another slope, and then just press it. This is an important point if you are building a hip roof with your own hands and a whole team of specialists does not help you.

Then you really should think about the convenience of work, especially at a height.In this case, professional roofers simply cut the membrane, turn the roll 180 degrees and continue installation directly on the opposite ridge - that's all the secrets.

There is also a piece of waterproofing on sale, which is already fixed on the insulation in advance for convenience:

Stage IV. Fastening roofing material

It is easiest to work with flexible tiles on a hip roof, but most of all in Russia they like to cover it with modern metal tiles:

1. In the first row, the first sheet is placed at a distance of 150 mm from the ridge beam, and subsequent tiles are laid towards the other ridge.
2. Next, the sheets are fixed on a plane, and all subsequent rows should be laid at the same distance from the ridge beam.
3. To close small gaps between the whole roofing sheet and the ridge beam, cut shingles are used.

By the way, it is often said that a large amount of waste appears when working with a hip roof. To avoid this, cut or bend each sheet for the ridge in advance. This will fill in the gaps.

If you have chosen ceramic or composite tiles as your roofing material, do not worry: you can cope with such an installation yourself!

Let us dwell separately on how to lay natural tiles on a hip roof. With such a roofing, the hip structure looks simply amazing, and in fact, the installation process itself is not so complicated.

Let's step by step:

• Step 1. For ceramic tiles you will need additional wooden holders, which must be mounted before installation. These are lathing bars that should be attached to each of the four ribs and to the ridge.
• Step 2. Attach the gutter board under the gutter and apron.
• Step 3. Install a wide wind board that you want to install on the ends of the rafters, previously sawn off at an angle.
• Step 4. Screw the brackets onto the wedge board to secure the gutter.
• Step 5. Attach a metal apron that will protect the edge of the overhang from rain. If you wish, you can screw an aero element-comb on it for full ventilation of the under-roof space.
• Step 6. We proceed to the installation of the tiles, for which we need wind hooks and a hammer. Lay the tiles from the bottom up and press down with clamps.
• Step 7. Glue the ridges of the hip roof with micro-perforated aluminum tape.
• Step 8. Fasten the hip molding to the ridge and ridge of the roof using a special adhesive sealant.
• Step 9. At the beginning of the row on the gable of the overhang, as at the end, use side shingles. Attach it to the lathing with screws.
• Step 10. Seal the junction of the roof to the chimney with self-adhesive tape. Fix its upper edge with an aluminum clamping bar using dowels.
• Step 11. Seal the joint with an elastic weatherproof sealant.

There are, of course, more complex projects, but if you divide such a house visually into separate parts, then it will not be difficult to cope with each one even for a novice builder.

The main thing is to correctly equip the valleys and abutments:

Stage V. Roof insulation from the inside or outside

Spread the vapor barrier on the rafters and screw the load-bearing bars under the roof covering. Attach a thick beam to the bottom of the rafters to support the layer of insulation boards.

Install insulation. If you are using rigid polystyrene foam, join it in a continuous layer using combs and grooves. On ridges where the slabs need to be adjusted, cut them into the desired shape using a regular hacksaw. Glue all overlaps and cover the plates with additional film. Then screw on the counter grill from above.

Of course, the device of a hip roof is not so simple, but the result will definitely delight the eye!

Today, many people, deciding to get their own home, believe that a do-it-yourself hip roof is the best solution. On the one hand, the installation process is not too complicated - even a person without rich construction experience can cope with this task. On the other hand, such a roof looks just great, much better than an ordinary gable roof.

In recent years, architects have been looking for new moves, improvements, and as a result, the hip roof has acquired many original varieties that very little resemble the original structure.

In the classical version, such a roof consists of four planes connecting the eaves of the building with its ridge. Two of them are installed from narrow cornices - they have a triangular shape and are called hips. Therefore, the whole structure got its name from them. The other two planes are large and trapezoidal.

Relatively recently, half-hip roofs, which are also called Dutch, have become widespread in our country. In this case, the eaves of the hips are located much higher than the eaves of the trapezoidal slopes. Most often, this technique is used in cases when they want to equip a spacious, cozy attic in the attic of a house. Such a roof looks much more attractive than a classic hip roof, but in production it is much more difficult - in addition, it is necessary to additionally build up the walls so that they form two walls of the future attic.

Basics of hip roof construction

The hip roof scheme differs significantly from the usual one. Therefore, special attention should be paid to it - without knowing the theory, it is impossible to build a structure with your own hands.

For clarity, we present a suitable picture:

Here is the simplest type of hip roof. But, having dealt with its device, you can proceed to the construction of more complex modifications.

1. It all starts with corner rafters. For them, it is best to take a solid board with a section of 50x150 mm. It fits at a lower angle than intermediate rafters.
2. Short rafters are not fixed to the ridge beam, but to the corner rafter.
3. The size of the ridge in the section should be no less than that of the corner rafters - it also has a rather large load, both constant (from the roofing material) and temporary (from snow, wind).
4. Rafters that converge from different sides and securely fix the ridge are called central - they must also have a serious margin of safety.
5. For intermediate rafters, a thinner beam is usually taken - between them the load from the roof spreads more evenly, which avoids overloads and the failure of individual structural elements.

It will be useful to remember all this for every person who wants to figure out how to build a hip roof with his own hands. As you can see, there is nothing particularly complicated here.

Hip Roof Construction Guide

Now we turn directly to the question of how to build a hip roof with our own hands step by step. All work can be divided into several stages. We will describe each of them in as much detail as possible so that even a person who has no experience in the field of construction can understand this difficult issue.

Markup

As with any construction, it all starts with the markup. It depends on how correctly it is made whether mistakes will be made during further work.

1. It all starts with drawing the axes of the upper trim of the walls from the side of the end.
2. After that, half the thickness of the ridge girder is determined - determine where and how the first element of the rafter system will be installed.
3. Using a long measuring rod, mark the points for the intermediate rafter legs. You need to apply it to the previously outlined line and continue along the wall.
4. To determine the desired length of the rafter overhang, lay one end of the beam on the outside corner and the other on the roof overhang.
5. The next step is to determine the location of the central rafter leg. To do this, you need to move the marking strip to the edge of the side wall, we will determine how the central elements of the system will be located.

This procedure should be repeated on four sides of the building. As a result, you can easily determine where and how the ends and intermediate rafters will be laid.

Payment

To quickly and accurately determine the length of the rafters, you will need the following table:

Having it at hand and knowing the planned angle of inclination of the roof slopes, you can determine as accurately as possible how long the rafters will have - after all, they are not evenly located, but at a slight angle. Well, in order to know how to make a hip roof with your own hands, you should remember - there are simply no trifles here.

Now use the Pythagorean theorem known from school - A2 + B2 = C2. A and B in this formula play the role of a horizontal and vertical projection of the rafters. Simply put - one leg is the distance from the Mauerlat (on which the lower end of the rafters is attached) to the ridge - the highest point of the roof. The other leg is the right-angled distance from the ridge to the floor of the attic. Both segments can be easily measured using a staff or tape measure. And knowing them, according to the above formula, you can find out the approximate length of the rafters.

To get the most accurate value, increase it by a factor corresponding to the angle of your roof.

That's all. This completes the calculation of the length of the rafters and you can safely proceed to the next step - their installation.

Installation of rafters

Before proceeding with the installation, make sure that the rafters are of the same length and cut angle in the place with which they will join the ridge. Even a small error will lead to the fact that the entire rafter system will have to be disassembled and reassembled.

1. Install the ridge bar - it locks onto the support legs. To fix other elements on it, use struts.
2. As carefully as possible, join the hips and nipple rafters with the ridge bar - it is best to use long, thin self-tapping screws for this.
3. When the installation of the rafter legs is completed, begin the installation of the rafter legs - the optimal distance between them is 60 centimeters. They are connected with the Mauerlat and the ridge by cutting. To increase the reliability of the connection, crossbars and ties are used.
4. Attach the rafters (short rafters) to the slant rafters. It is through them that the nipple rafters will be connected to the Mauerlat. Make sure that the rafters and ordinary rafters are located strictly perpendicular to the ridge beam.

Reinforcement of the truss structure

To strengthen the rafter structure, you can use various options:

• At the corners of the structure, sprengels are attached with vertical racks - they will serve as an additional support on which the nesting rafters will lie. They are fixed directly on the Mauerlat.
• Stands are installed on the tightening board, which are supports for intermediate rafters.
• In cases where the length of the roof rafter leg is large enough, it can be used to make stacked or glued beams.

Thanks to this reinforcement, the rafter structure can easily withstand any load - both from the roof, and from snow or wind.

Ventilation

Moisture is always present in the attics of living quarters. It rises with the warm air from the kitchen, bathroom, bedroom, living room. Condensing on the wooden elements of the truss system, moisture can cause mold and even rot, which will reduce the reliability and service life of the entire house. To prevent this from happening, you need to take care of high-quality ventilation of the room.

The easiest way to do this is to fit a hole in the windscreen that protects the attic. The optimal location is near the ridge girder. In addition, if a tree is used for wind filing, it is recommended to lay it with a small gap of 2-3 millimeters. If plastic material is used, make small holes in it.

If no gaps were provided when laying the wind roof, small ventilation grilles should be installed in it.

When installing ventilation grilles, it is advisable to arrange several grilles along the length of the windscreen with a gap of 0.8 meters. Only then can you start laying insulation and waterproofing.

The last, final stage is laying the roof of the house with your own hands. This completes the work. Now you know how to assemble a hip roof step by step with your own hands and you probably won’t get confused while working.

Hip roof is a kind of hipped roof, in which two slopes have a trapezoidal shape, and the other two (end) - triangular (having the same name as "hips"). If the end slopes occupy the entire area from the ridge to the cornice, this is a hip roof, if they do not reach the cornice, it is a half-hip roof.

The roof of the house performs a double function - on the one hand, it is entrusted with protecting the building from external influences, and on the other, it is designed to decorate the structure and give it individuality.

Historically, in Russia, preference was given to simpler one-, gable roofs, while Europeans prefer a four-slope or hip roof, which has advantages and disadvantages under certain conditions.

Hip roof - advantages and disadvantages

Pros:

• high rigidity of the structure. It is achieved due to the corner ribs connected near the ridge support beam;

• the possibility of arranging more protruding overhangs, which provides additional protection for the walls of the house;

• aesthetic appeal.

Minuses:

• the complexity of the calculation and installation;
• higher cost of project implementation;
• reduction in the area of ​​the attic (in particular, in the place where the diagonal supports are installed);
• the impossibility of arranging an attic;
• natural light is possible only by installing windows in the roofing cake.

Since the shortcomings are not critical, the hip-type hipped roof is actively practiced in the modern construction of private houses.

Varieties (types and types) of hip roof

Studying the device of the rafter system of the hip roof, it should be borne in mind that within this type, there are several types of structures. In turn, this makes adjustments to the general process of erecting the frame of the truss system.

Classic hip roof

It differs in the support of the diagonal ribs on the ridge support beam and the location of the overhangs at the same height. The individual elements of the hip roof correspond to a triangle (gables) and a trapezoid (slopes).

Hip roof

Differs in the absence of a ridge support beam. This leads to the fact that all diagonal edges converge at a single point, and ordinary short rafters are already adjacent to them. Such a roof is preferred if there is a square box at home. But the formation of a reliable ridge knot is quite difficult.

Half hip roof

Differs in the presence of vertical gables in which windows can be installed. The picture shows the difference between two types of semi-hip roofs (Dutch and Danish).

Sloped hip roof or mansard hipped roof

The most difficult construction of the rafter system of the hip roof in terms of construction, since in this case, all the roof slopes have a different area and diverge at different angles. The sloping (mansard) roof allows you to more rationally organize the internal under-roof space and, in addition to additional living space, give the house a spectacular appearance.

Hip roof structure

Regardless of the type of roof, all types have the same elements of the rafter system of the hip roof:

ridge support beam or ridge beam - used for a classic hip roof, serves as a supporting element to which diagonal rafters are attached;

a diagonal rafter (side, edge, slant or corner rafter) - a longer rafter leg that joins the end of the ridge bar at an acute angle, forming one of the sides of the triangle;

central rafter - boards, of the same length, which adjoin the ridge beam and form the edges of the trapezoidal roof slope. Intermediate rafters are located between them;

intermediate or ordinary rafter - forms the plane of the trapezoidal slope, the distance between them determines the run of the rafter system;

a rafter or short rafter is a structural element that is attached to a diagonal rafter, forming a triangular overhang and corner parts of the trapezoid.

Calculation of the hip roof

The calculation of the rafter system of the hip roof is carried out taking into account the following prerequisites:

• wind load in the region. The higher it is, the more shallow the slope should be, and the stronger the whole structure. To level the strong wind, the central and diagonal rafters are made thicker;

• the amount of precipitation. An inverse relationship is observed. The higher the amount of precipitation, the steeper the slope should be, so that snow and rain do not create pressure on the rafter system;

• type of roofing material. Each type of roofing material puts forward its own requirements for the lathing, and also has a certain weight. These factors must be taken into account at the design stage;

• the need for roof insulation. In this case, the pitch of the rafters is calculated taking into account the width of the insulating material. In addition, the distance between the rafters depends on the type and section of the wood.

The calculation of the roofing material is carried out according to the formulas, taking into account the angle of inclination of the roof. The optimal roof slope for different types of roofing materials is shown in the table:

The slope of the rafter angle determines the placement of the rafters. In turn, the laying of the intermediate rafter is calculated as follows:

1. first, an axial line is applied to the upper trim of the end wall;
2. then half the thickness of the ridge beam is calculated, and a line is drawn for the placement of the first of the number of central intermediate rafters;
3. then the end of the measuring rod and the line of placement of the central intermediate rafter marked above are combined;
4. the line of the inner contour of the side wall is applied to the opposite end of the measuring rod;
5. the resulting point is the laying of the intermediate rafter.

The ratio between the length of the rafters and their placement is calculated using a correction factor, the value of which depends on the angle of inclination of the roof slope. The length of the rafter leg is determined by multiplying the laying by a factor.

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Formulas for calculating a hip roof

Ridge height
Ridge bar length	House length minus its width
Center length rafters (trapeze)		Pythagorean theorem
Length of ordinary rafters	Calculated similarly to the length of the center rafters
Rafter extension to form frame overhang
Tilt angle ordinary rafters
Diagonal length hip rafters
Narodniks (short rafters)	First short rafter
	Second short rafter
Square hip roof

How to calculate the area of ​​a hip roof?

To know how much roofing material to buy, you need to know the total roof area.

To do this, you need to break the entire roof into simple geometric shapes and make a calculation for each of them.

The calculation of the area of ​​the hip roof allows you to determine in advance not only the cost of purchasing roofing materials and installation, but also to determine the requirements for materials, as well as the need for arrangement and the exact configuration of the lathing.

Hip roof truss system drawing

The result of the development of the project and calculations will be a schematic drawing of the rafter system of the hip roof. There are no similar drawings ready for use without taking into account the characteristics of a particular structure and the place of its construction.

The development of a preliminary scheme can be done independently (a simple sketch will allow you to determine the direction of the project). But, it is better to entrust the drawing to specialists or use special programs for calculation. It should be remembered that the more complex the roof structure, the more accurately you need to calculate the rafter system: configuration and materials. This will also affect the cost and duration of the installation work.

The drawing of the hip roof should include an indication of the purpose of the material, the place of its installation and the method of fastening. The key components of the rafter system of the hip roof, for example, the adjoining of the diagonal supports to the ridge beam or the installation of rafter legs on the Mauerlat, is advisable to be taken out in a separate drawing and described in more detail.

Hip roof drawing (layered rafters with emphasis on two runs)

Drawing of the rafter system of a hip roof with a bay window

The presence of a schematic drawing will be a good help in the manufacture of blanks and the subsequent installation of the roof.

Hip Roof Construction Tools

The design of the roof and the methods of arranging the nodes determine the set of tools that should be prepared before starting work.

For working with wood, it is useful: a level, a hacksaw, a hammer, a tape measure, a marking string, a stapler.

To work with metal structures, you will need an electric drill, a riveter, cut-through scissors.

The tool and consumables must be prepared in advance. the complex installation of the rafter system of the hip roof involves a large number of cuts and the installation of nails.

To simplify measurements and be able to make all parts of the same size, the masters advise replacing the tape measure with a measuring rod. The measuring rod is made of plywood 50 mm wide, on which the main dimensions are applied.

Hip roof material

The species and type of wood have a direct impact on the durability and reliability of the roof structure. Craftsmen are advised to give preference to larch or pine lumber. All workpieces require pre-treatment with fire retardants and antiseptics.

In addition to wood, you will need metal fasteners, nails, screws, anchor bolts.

Note. When forming a hip rafter system on a wooden house, which can shrink, the craftsmen advise using floating fasteners to connect the rafters to the Mauerlat. This method compensates for the movement of the crowns during natural shrinkage of the house from a bar or log.

Hip roof rafter system - installation technology

Diy rafter system devices step by step:

1. Preparation of blanks (rafters)

This is the most difficult and time consuming part of the construction, because connected with:

• the need to ensure a given angle of inclination of the rafter legs;
• different lengths of rafters (short rafters);
• the presence of diagonal rafters (oblique), which are given special attention. Due to the length, the slant rafters carry a greater load than the main rafters, and therefore require the use of better quality lumber with a large cross section. In addition, diagonal rafters are often longer than standard plank lengths.

In order not to buy different lumber, in practice, the method of splicing (pairing) edged boards is used to obtain a given length.

Advantages of the rafter splicing technology:

• obtaining continuous beams of a given length;
• increasing the strength of the diagonal rafters of the hip roof due to the doubled section;
• simplification of the calculation and purchase of material (unification of dimensions: length and section);
• the possibility of using boards intended for the formation of ordinary rafters.

2. Mount the Mauerlat

Mauerlat for a hip roof is a large section of wood (100x100 or 100x150 mm) mounted along the perimeter of the walls. For Mauerlat wood of the first grade is used.

The peculiarity of laying the Mauerlat is that the timber is connected along the length only with an overlap, but not end-to-end, using many points of connection with the base of the wall. The connecting assemblies are additionally reinforced with metal brackets.

Since the purpose of the Mauerlat is to serve as a support for the rafter legs, it needs protection from moisture. For this purpose, a hydro-barrier is placed between the wall and the timber (for example, roofing material is used).

Note. Under the Mauerlat in brick houses (or made of aerated concrete, foam concrete, wood concrete), a belt of reinforced concrete with pre-installed studs for mounting a bar is poured. The hairpin has a diameter of 10 mm or more and should protrude 20-30 mm beyond the Mauerlat plane. The stud installation step is 1000-1200 mm.

3. Installation of the purlin

A purlin is a beam that is installed parallel to the sides of the Mauerlat. The run serves as the basis for the installation of additional supports under the rafter legs. The device of the girder is not an obligatory stage of work and is performed only for hip roofs of a large area or with a configuration of increased complexity. The location of the purlin is shown in the diagram.

It should be borne in mind that the point of maximum load will differ depending on the location - on the ridge of the hip or on the edge of the valley.

Note. The hip hip roof is mounted without support, and a complex knot is formed at the junction of the diagonal rafters.

4. Installation of support legs

The racks act as a support when installing the ridge bar (orange in the picture).

5. Installation of the ridge beam

Installation of the hip roof ridge is accompanied by accurate measurements. Since the entire roof structure will rest on the ridge, the correctness of its installation is checked in height and level.

6. Fastening the rafter legs

The opinions of the masters differ regarding the sequence of work at this stage. This makes it possible to distinguish two areas for performing work:

1. central rafters are mounted, and then diagonal. This work order is simpler;
2. diagonal rafters are mounted, and then the rest.

During installation, the lower part of the rafter leg rests on the Mauerlat.

The support of the rafters on the hip roof is shown in the diagram. The first option (with a cut) is simpler, but the second (with a support bar) is preferable, because in this case, the fastening does not weaken the rafter.

The formation of a knot on a ridge beam is possible in different ways.

The options for the upper fastening of the diagonal rafters are shown in the diagram.

Advice. For rigidity, it is advisable to reinforce all nodes with metal elements (brackets, plates, corners).

Since the diagonal rafters bear a significant load, they can be strengthened using such means as:

• installation of the rack. It is mounted vertically on the floor;
• installation of a brace. Mounted at an angle. The angle of inclination is not critical. The ability of the brace to strengthen the diagonal rafter is important;
• sprengel. In fact, it is a T-shaped short beam, turned 180 °. It is used on long spans and is installed so that its base is oriented perpendicular to the diagonal rafter.

7. Installation of ordinary rafters

Privates are installed in the same way as the central rafters, which form the edges of the trapezoid. Their lower part rests and is attached to the Mauerlat, and the upper one rests on the ridge beam. It is important to keep the same distance between ordinary rafters.

8. Installation of rafters (short rafters)

Narodniks are made only from solid lumber. In the place where the man joins the long rafter, cuts are made or support beams are installed. The installation site is additionally reinforced with metal elements.

Note. Installation of hip roof brackets is possible in a staggered manner to simplify installation.

In any case, the people are installed after the formation of the power frame of the roof. Their installation ends with the construction of the rafter system of the hip roof.

Do-it-yourself hip roof step by step - video

The program shows the process of installing the rafter system of a gable hip roof with a central bay window along a short wall.

After the rafter system is ready, you can proceed with the installation of the roof covering, the specifics of the fastening of which determines the need to install the lathing on the rafter legs.

Installation of the rafter system of a hip roof is a long process that requires attention to every stage of the work - from the calculation and selection of material, to the installation of parts and reinforcement of the attachment points. But, with the correct implementation of all stages, the result will be a beautiful and reliable roof for a private house.

A beautiful and stylish solution for decorating a country house in a European style. Made of practical material, such a roof can be complemented by elegant elements such as dormers.

Putting a hip roof with your own hands is not so easy. To do this, you need to consult with specialists who perform structural calculations for hip roofs in order to design a strong and durable roof.

By performing the work according to the instructions and following the schemes, you can achieve the desired result.

What is a hip roof?

Hip roof is a type of hipped roof. Two of its slopes are trapezoidal, and the other two (end) are triangular, thanks to which it got its name - hip.

Types of hip roofs

There are many popular hip roof designs. The most popular hip roofs are shown in the photo.

Semi-hinged roof. The methods of installing the Dutch hip are common. It is characterized by trimmed slopes, if there are attic compartments in which it is necessary to cut out windows. The Danish hip is distinguished by a shortened front, on which a trapezoidal slope rests.

Hipped roof. In his scheme there are four slopes of the same size. Suitable for square rooms. It is organized on four diagonal rafters, with a slight angle of inclination (no more than 30 degrees).

American hip roof. The design involves optimizing the space under the roof to increase the attic room.

Roof with cuckoo. Functional and decorative solution. Increases the area of ​​the attic. And also the ability to organize additional sections, such as storage rooms or attics. This structure allows vertical walls to be glazed.

Roof with a canopy. Typically, this design is chosen for a house with a porch. It differs in that a crate for the visor protrudes on top of the main rafter part.

Infinity roof. If the diagonal rafters converge (as is the case with a square roof), the ridge is not installed. This type of system belongs to the tent. No ridge installation required in symmetrical domed roofs.

Asymmetrical hip roof. If it is necessary to optimize the space under the roof as much as possible, this type of structure is used. All slopes in it have different lengths and angles of inclination. A very complex construction.

Advantages and disadvantages

• The coating is resistant to winds and loads (snow);
• The design is made in such a way that it allows you to install eaves over the entire perimeter of the building;
• I do not let moisture into the room;
• Visually stretch the height of the attic structure.

• The complicated structure of the roof truss system. The difficulty lies in the volumetric calculations of hip roofs, and this leads to an increase in the price of the roof.
• Since the design assumes a wide angle between the slopes, this leads to a narrowing of the space under the attic.
• If windows are installed in the hip roof, moisture may enter the premises. To eliminate this problem, the windows must be covered with moisture-proof materials.
• The rafter system can only be performed by an experienced master who knows the intricacies of this type of roof.

Roof scheme for a rectangular building frame

The structural outline of this kind of roof is like a sealed envelope. In the drawings of the hip roof, the following elements are indicated:

• The ridge of the roof is the junction of the ribs of the trapezoidal sides. The ridge is shorter than the base of the room to be covered. Slopes are attached from the ridge to the overhang;
• Two other triangular sides of the covering (hips), held together by diagonal rafters;
• Four ribs at the junction of the slopes and hips.

Structural elements

• Supports made of bars based on Mauerlat. Needed for even distribution of the mass of the roof over all load-bearing parts. The width of one bar is 100-150 × 150 mm.
• Racks, supported by struts, the height of which depends on the angle of inclination of the hips.
• The ridge rail, fixed on the racks, is the support for the rafter hip roof.
• Main rafters. They rest on a Mauerlat base and a ridge rail.
• Diagonal rafters.
• Narodniks - continue the surface of the main slopes, sprengels - reinforce the supporting structure.
• Braces and lathing. The lathing forms a platform for the roof.

Operating procedure

The sequence of performing the installation of a hip roof begins with drawing up a drawing of a roof plan. Further, depending on the width between the walls of the room, the necessary parameters are calculated.

The next stage is the selection and purchase of the necessary materials and tools. When everything is ready, we start tying the walls. This is necessary to install the rafter system. For subsequent installation, the walls must be marked.

And finally - the installation and construction of the roofing system.

The following materials will be needed as materials for installing the rafter system:

• Wood
• Metal mounts
• Nails, screws, anchor bolts and staples.

The complexity and volume of work on laying a hip roof is justified by its strength, reliability and extraordinary design.

Photo of a hip roof