How to make an opening in the wall under the door. How to make a new doorway in a brick partition Arrangement of doorways

A feature of the apartment redevelopment is the change in the size or location of the doorways. The process involves the dismantling of the interior partition. They start cutting the doorway only after issuing permits and installing temporary retaining posts for floor slabs.

It is impossible to make an opening in the wall under the door simply at will. Arrangement of a doorway in an interior partition begins with design. The process consists in issuing permits and performing certain calculations.

The size and location of the passage is directly proportional to the parameters of the windows. The basis for the calculation is the ratio of the area of light openings, providing natural light in the room, and the floor 1: 5.5. The last figure can be increased to a maximum of 8. Considering that the windows in the house have already been installed, they are adjusted to the parameter.

When cutting a new opening in the wall, they additionally adhere to the accepted GOST:

height- 2 m;
width doorway for living rooms - 70 and 80 cm, to the bathroom - 60 cm, entrance doors - 90 and 100 cm.

Swing door opening dimensions

Additionally, the passage is strengthened with a lintel and. In a room with high ceilings, it is allowed to deviate from the generally accepted standards for arranging a spacious entrance, if the actions are agreed with the BTI and are provided for by the project.

Cutting methods

To cut a doorway with your own hands, you will need a tool, but you can choose it correctly after determining the method of work being carried out. The method depends on the material of the wall. To hammer with a chisel and a sledgehammer is impractical, since the integrity of the entire partition will be violated. The opening can be carefully cut using diamond, laser, waterjet or oxygen cutting.

Diamond cutting

For concrete partitions, the method of diamond cutting of the doorway is used using a grinder or a circular saw. The cutting element of the tool is a diamond-coated metal disc.

The diamond cutting method has many advantages:

low vibration level excludes the appearance of cracks even on loose partitions;
in the process of cutting, an accurate thin cut is entrusted along the marked contour and at the desired angle;
the noise level of the working tool does not exceed the permissible threshold specified in the sanitary standards;
a small amount of debris due to the absence of chips, which is impossible to get when using a hammer drill.

From disadvantages allocate the cost of purchasing expensive diamond discs. During work, the concrete wall is moistened with water, but fine dust still spreads in the room.

Laser cutting

Expensive equipment is used for laser cutting of openings. Previously, it was cumbersome and used only in production. Modern laser cutting equipment is compact, but its high cost and specific purpose have made it popular only among specialized repair crews. The concrete wall is cut with a laser cutter due to the gas-discharge action.

Before starting work, they are assessed wall parameters:

thickness;
the presence of a reinforcing frame;
passage inside the communication partition;
reinforced concrete wall brand.

Additionally, the floor of an apartment building is taken into account, where cutting is provided, as well as the admissibility of wetting the concrete structure with water.

Waterjet cutting

Cold cutting of a wall opening is a waterjet method. A special installation is used for work. It creates a strong stream of water at a speed of 1,000 m / s. The liquid in the tank is mixed with abrasive particles with a diameter of about 0.4 mm. The prepared mixture is fed through a nozzle to the reinforced concrete structure and destroys it at the point of contact. The cutting force depends on the pressure. At the maximum power of the equipment, a reinforcing frame made of steel rods is cut together with concrete.

The waterjet cutting method has the following advantages:

precise section of concrete according to the markings;
ecology is not polluted due to the absence of chemical impurities and harmful gases;
the concrete partition is not exposed to mechanical and thermal stress;
no wall vibration;
low noise level;
the method allows you to cut out a section of the partition at any angle, as well as make a doorway of complex shape.

Disadvantage is the formation of dirt, the high cost of consumables, the large size of the equipment. Waterjet cutting is used on construction sites that have not been commissioned.

Oxygen cutting

The oxygen cutting method is also called lance drilling. A machine with a metal tube is used to cut the doorway. Oxygen is supplied through the lance under high pressure. At the same time, inside the tube, the jet is heated to a temperature of 1400 ° C using a gas burner. After ignition of the spear, the external heating source is turned off. When the temperature reaches 2000 ° C, the tube is leaned against the concrete surface and slightly turned. During cutting, it is impossible to move the spear away from the concrete, as it cools quickly.

The disadvantage of this method is considered to be fire hazard, as well as the possibility of getting a burn. During cutting, hot slag particles are scattered throughout the room.

How to make a doorway in a concrete wall?

Before cutting the opening in a panel house, a number of strengthening measures are performed. Floor slabs are supported with temporary supports to relieve pressure on the partition. When cutting an opening in a concrete wall, the following rules are followed:

If the chosen cutting method requires wetting the concrete, the thin panels are lightly sprayed with water. Partitions thicker than 30 cm are wetted continuously until the cut is complete.

How to make a doorway in a brick wall?

The steps taken when punching an opening in a brick wall are different from cutting a concrete panel. The masonry consists of rows with bandaging of seams. The top of the doorway should line up with the joint. You cannot cut bricks lengthwise. Such actions will weaken the tub and cracks will go along the partition.

After applying the markings, they begin to strengthen the opening in the brick wall by inserting the upper lintel. Above the marked line, a row of bricks is chosen. A lintel is embedded in the void with a length greater than the width of the passage.

Further actions are aimed at cutting an opening in a brick wall with the selected tool. If the masonry lends itself to disassembly, then it is wiser to pick out the bricks with a pry bar. The seams are drilled with an electric drill. The uneven protrusions of the ends of the doorway are leveled with a grinder.

How to make a doorway in a wooden wall?

To cut a doorway in a wooden house, you need a chainsaw or power saw.

Additionally, they are stocked with bars with a section of 10 * 10 cm. The length of the blanks is equal to the height of the room. The bars are needed to strengthen the wall. When cutting out a doorway, the wooden partition can bend. To avoid deformation of the structure, the bars are placed vertically on both sides of the wall not far from the slots of the future passage. Through holes are drilled in the racks and the partition and the structure is pulled together with long bolts.

In order to correctly make an opening for a house made of logs, make sure that there is a solid element above the aisle. This will be the carrier jumper. The markings are applied so that the bottom and top of the passage during cutting additionally remains 1/5 of the thickness of the whole log.

Sawing laminated veneer lumber with a chainsaw may result in plank delamination. In order to prevent the destruction of the material, the bars are nailed with long nails near the place where they were cut. At the end of sawing, the passage is strengthened, and the temporary bars are removed.

To arrange a doorway in a frame house, first dismantle the cladding together with the internal insulation. After cutting, a frame from a bar is installed along the perimeter of the passage. The thermal insulation, together with the cladding, is returned to its place.

Making an opening in a plasterboard partition

To arrange a doorway in an interior plasterboard partition, first install a frame. The structure of the steel profile gives the shape of the wall, and also serves as the basis for fixing the gypsum board sheets. Strength is provided by wooden beams installed along the entire perimeter of the passage. The beam is connected to the metal frame racks.

Work begins with the installation of the guide profile on the floor and ceiling. The additional element is attached to the adjacent wall. A rubber tape is placed under each profile for cushioning. Vertical posts from the profile are fixed to the guides at a distance of 40 cm, forming the frame of the wall. The end posts form the outline of the passage. They are connected to vertical timber beams. A wooden plank is attached on top.

To strengthen the common frame of the wall, the vertical posts from the profile are connected with horizontal jumpers. The sheathing starts from the corner. Sheets of drywall are screwed with self-tapping screws in increments of up to 20 cm, slightly recessed inside the cap. The edges of each piece of plasterboard should be adjacent to the middle of the profile.

Gain

In order to preserve the original integrity of the partitions, the opening is reinforced with wooden or metal elements. The process is stipulated in the project, where the material is indicated and the structure diagram is drawn. Additionally, the documentation contains the following information:

In the project of reinforcement of the opening, the number and place of installation of temporary supports are indicated. The drawing shows the locations of the anchors. A close-up shows the scheme for fixing the lintel to the floor. Conscientious designers will identify the best way to cover the slopes to hide the reinforcement.
The project accurately reflects the types of lintels above the openings, as well as the type of posts. The framing methods depend on the material of the walls. For example, for constructed buildings made of reinforced concrete or a metal frame, minimal reinforcement is required, and the passages on the upper floors do not need to be additionally reinforced.

When reinforcing the doorway in the wall, a welded frame is made from foam blocks. The horseshoe-shaped structure is fixed overlay on the ends of the passage walls, forming a double side. In a brick house, the doorway will have to be reinforced with a lintel on a non-bearing interior wall. In a modern panel house, it is forbidden to cut partitions, even if additional reinforcement is provided. Such buildings are erected from large blocks, and all of them are load-bearing.

Reinforcement structure there are three types of doorways:

In wooden houses, timber or thick boards are used for reinforcement.

It is necessary to carry out cutting and strengthening of the passage exactly according to the drawn up project. Self-made changes will lead to loosening of the box by a heavy door, as well as a violation of the integrity of the partition.

Various materials can be used for the manufacture of doorways, and the most popular material is drywall. The main advantages of drywall are low price, ease of installation, and ease of finishing. You can make such an opening alone, without the help of experienced builders. But how to make a drywall opening correctly? Do I need to reinforce the frame? What to keep in mind when installing drywall? Below you will find out the answers to these questions.

How to make a drywall opening

For manufacturing, you need to install special vertical racks. After that, it is necessary to strengthen the door frame in order to increase the strength of the structure. Then you need to install the door frame. At the final stage, finishing should be done. Let's take a closer look at each stage of installing a drywall opening in more detail.

1. Formation of the frame

First, at the chosen place, it is necessary to put special racks that will limit the opening. You need to install the racks as follows:

The racks should be level, and you can check their location using a building or laser level. Checking the position of the pillars is very important - if the pillars are crooked, you will get a crooked, skewed door.

The vertical partitions must be attached from above and below to the horizontal guides of the frame. To increase the structural strength, you can also attach partitions to the floor as well as to the ceiling.
Along the height of the doorway, connect the racks with a horizontal lintel. You can fasten metal parts to each other using shortened metal screws.

2. Strengthening the frame

To make the drywall more stable, it is necessary to reinforce the supporting structure:

To improve the strength, ordinary wooden blocks are usually used.
The thickness of the bar should be 3-5 mm less than the thickness of the metal frame.
The length of the timber should be equal to the height of the racks.
The bars are mounted like this: a wooden block is inserted inside and fixed with self-tapping screws for wood. The optimal thread pitch for secure fixation is 1.5 - 2 centimeters.

The length of the self-tapping screws should be less than half the thickness of the timber by a few millimeters.
If you plan to install a massive heavy wooden door, then you also need to reinforce the horizontal lintel with wooden bars at the top.

3. Box installation

Let's find out how the installation of a door frame looks like:

Typically, the door frame is a standard factory-made frame that is sold with the door.
If you did everything correctly, then there should be a gap of 3-5 mm between the box and the uprights. This gap makes it much easier to mount the box.
The installation of the box usually looks like this - first you need to buy special anchors; then small holes are drilled in the vertical posts and in the box, the diameter of which should be equal to the thickness of the anchors; after that, countersunk screws are screwed into the anchors; the resulting gaps between should be filled with polyurethane foam.

It should also be remembered that a large amount of foam can skew the door frame, which will lead to a skew of the door itself. To prevent this from happening, after pouring the polyurethane foam, you should install a couple of spacers in several places. When the foam hardens, remove the spacers and remove excess foam with a utility knife.
After that, it is necessary to carry out the installation of drywall. To do this, you need to carefully cut the drywall according to the dimensions of the structure, and then attach it to the frame using long screws or anchors.

4. Finishing work

We will find out how to complete the final finishing:

Primer. A special primer is applied to the joint between the drywall and the protruding structure.
Removal of defects. When the primer is completely dry, it is necessary to seal the seams with a serpentine. It is also necessary to cover up with putty and primer the places where the anchors are screwed in to hide the transition from the wall to the structure.
Leveling and final finishing. Now you need to wipe the previously applied primer with sandpaper. Then another layer of putty should be applied over the entire area of the structure.
Mashing. Now you need to grind again so that the resulting structure is even.

Let's find out what experienced builders advise regarding the manufacture of a drywall door reception:

Many builders recommend doing it, since metal transmits sound quite well. As an insulating material, you can use mineral wool, which suppresses sound vibrations well. Another good soundproofing material is polyurethane tape. The sound-insulating material should be attached to the metal frame with special glue. It is recommended to fix mineral wool or polyurethane tape around the entire perimeter in order to achieve complete soundproofing of the room.

Not only standard rectangular openings can be made from drywall, but also arched openings, ellipsoidal, rounded, and so on. To do this, you need to give the materials the shape you need. installed according to the standard procedure, but at the same time the profiles are gently bent, and the profile itself can be trimmed using metal scissors.
You will also need to bend the drywall - for this, you first need to cut the rectangular sheet in the way you want; then you should walk with a needle roller; now you need to wet and attach the drywall to the metal structure. It is necessary to wet the drywall carefully - if there is too much water, the drywall will begin to crumble, which will make the resulting structure fragile and unstable.
Installation of a door into a drywall wall is carried out according to the standard scheme, but there are several important differences. First, the bolt insertion must be done carefully. Secondly, don't forget to reinforce the frame; if the door is too heavy, the metal frame will quickly deform, which can lead to the door skewing and even to the collapse of the structure.

It may be necessary to punch a new doorway when combining two rooms into one, to optimize the layout, etc. It is not difficult to do this, the main thing is to legally agree on the redevelopment before starting work, how to arrange it can be found from.

After approval and obtaining permission for redevelopment, you can start working.

How to break through an opening

In order to efficiently and quickly cope with any work, you need to be well prepared.

Preparatory work

Punching the opening is a rather dusty job, so you should take care of the specials in advance. clothes:

gloves;
respirator;
protective glasses.

Sturdy bags are needed to collect trash. During punching, the surface can be wetted with water - this will reduce the amount of dust. If the floor is not planned to be repaired in the room where the wall will break through, it is better to immediately cover it with boards in order to avoid damage.

Required tool:

roulette;
Bulgarian;
diamond discs;
puncher;
various attachments for the hammer drill;
chisel;
sledgehammer.

Attention: work with a sledgehammer must be done carefully. Because the goal of the work is a neat opening, not a dilapidated wall.

Video: How to make an opening in a load-bearing wall. The whole step-by-step process of creating an opening.

Breaking through the brick wall

First, the brick wall is cleaned of wallpaper and plaster. Then, with the help of a tape measure and a pencil, the markings are made. After that, a reinforcing jumper is installed on top. This is necessary so that the wall does not burst and collapse. The jumper is made from a corner of at least 35 mm in size. Two blanks are cut 30-40 cm longer than the opening.

A grinder with a diamond disc cuts the top from both sides of the wall. Cut by 15 - 20 cm. More than the width of the future doorway, cutting depth = the size of the corner (shelf). After that, the corners are inserted into the cut made, securing them with anchor pins and clogging the cracks with cement mortar.

Now you can start dismantling the brick wall. You can quickly and efficiently remove an unnecessary area using a diamond saw. However, not everyone can afford such pleasure. Therefore, a grinder, a hammer drill or a sledgehammer with a chisel is most often used.

Along the marked lines of the doorway, a cutter is made with a grinder as far as the diameter of the diamond disc will allow. Then, with a hammer drill or a sledgehammer with a chisel, the brick is gradually removed. After removing all unnecessary bricks, you need to finish the jumper. To do this, both corners need to be welded together from the bottom.

If, for some reason, welding is not possible, they can be fastened with metal plates. Plates and a corner are drilled and fixed together with powerful self-tapping screws for metal. Everything is almost ready, it remains only to refine and you can insert the door.

How to make a doorway in a concrete wall

Most often, concrete walls are load-bearing. And if this is so, then it is better to trust this work to specialists who can correctly calculate the design features of the reinforcing frame and strapping. First, as in the first case, markup is done.

After that, this markup must be transferred to the other side. This can be done by drilling holes in the corners and along the lines of the future opening with a puncher. Then, with a drill with a diameter of 10 - 12 mm, we make holes around the entire perimeter, every 3 - 4 cm.

Concrete walls are much stronger than brick walls, so the work will be long and hard without a diamond saw. After the passage is still pierced, it is necessary to make a strapping from a metal channel or corners welded together.

In conclusion, I would like to remind you once again that any changes in the design features of the apartment, especially for apartment buildings, can be made only with permission obtained from state authorities.

Watch the video: How to cut dust-free concrete yourself (redevelopment)

Repair and redevelopment of apartments and houses has become almost a national hobby of the country's residents. There can be many reasons to modernize a living space. But, in most cases, they are far-fetched. They are urgently needed only for major repairs of old buildings.

Unauthorized planning is a widespread phenomenon that entails not only problems in legitimizing such changes and the inability to sell re-planned housing, but also much more serious consequences, leading to the collapse of residential buildings and human casualties.

In order to prevent these consequences, there is a special procedure for making changes to the layout and design of premises, which you can familiarize yourself with in the article offered to your attention, as well as learn about the features of the device of door (window) openings in walls made of various building materials.

Redevelopment registration in the form of an opening in the wall

Before starting the device of a door (window) opening in a place not provided for by the architectural plan, it is necessary to find out whether the wall in which it is planned to make the opening is load-bearing or it performs a non-basic (dividing) function. This can be done by reviewing the technical plan of the premises or by contacting the management company serving the house.

In the future, a decision is made on the economic feasibility of arranging a doorway and a miscalculation of non-production costs associated with the preparation of a project by a specialized organization, obtaining permission from the local administration (housing inspection), and legitimizing the changes made to the BTI.

The algorithm of actions is something like this:

Ordering a redevelopment project in a specialized design and construction organization;
Coordination of the project in the housing inspection of the administration at the location of the object;
Application to the administration;
Documents for the ownership of the re-planned premises;
Technical passport of the premises;
Consent of all residents registered in the dwelling for redevelopment;
Permission from the Inspection for Historical and Cultural Heritage, if the premises are located in a building of historical value;
Obtaining a new technical passport indicating the changes made.

If these bureaucratic obstacles do not scare you, you can start redeveloping.

Technical requirements for the arrangement of doorways in residential buildings

The current SNiP (building codes and regulations) 35-1-2001 regulates the general requirements for the arrangement of residential premises in apartment buildings. In addition to them, the joint venture (building rules) 35-102-2001 are in force, which regulate the arrangement of passages, openings, driveways and doors for persons with disabilities (wheelchair users).

Traditionally, in most residential premises of typical buildings, doorways were 600 to 1200 mm wide with a height of 1900 to 2100 mm.

The narrowest doors (600-700 mm) were equipped with bathrooms, toilets, closets and exits to the balcony (loggia), the widest - entrance doors and interior doors to living rooms (900-1200 mm).

Based on these generally accepted standards, you should plan to equip a new doorway or expand an existing one.

Arched window openings are not provided for in typical projects and can be performed only if the wall is not load-bearing. To do this, use a shaped channel with a corresponding bend.

Preparation for work on the installation of the opening in the wall

To arrange an opening in the wall, regardless of the material from which it is made, you will need the same type of construction tool:

Perforator;
Drills for concrete (brick) with a length exceeding the wall thickness by 100-150 mm;
Angle grinder (grinder) with a disc diameter of at least 400 mm;
Cutting discs for stone (concrete) d-400 mm and more;
Cutting discs for metal (for cutting reinforcement);
Sledgehammer;
Chisels;
Pick;
Hammer;
A set of tools for working with electrical wiring;
Building level;
Plumb line;
Spatulas and trowels for concrete mortar;
Mixer for solution preparation;
A set of wrenches for screed metal structures of the lintel and reinforcement of the opening;
Welding machine.

In addition, you should prepare a protective suit, respiratory protection from construction dust, construction goggles or plastic eye protection, covering material for the floor and interior items.

Opening in the load-bearing wall

In front of the opening device, a metal detector and a wiring detector establish the presence of metal structures and electrical wires in the thickness of the wall.

If found, the wiring is moved to a new location.

The adjusted doorway must be located at least 300 mm from the existing ventilation shafts and chimneys.

Two lintels are bolted together

The sequence of work on the device of the opening in the wall:

Installation of supporting floor supports;
Removing a layer of plaster over the area of the planned doorway;
Exact determination of the boundaries of the doorway and drawing its contours on the wall;
Drilling through holes along the upper edge of the doorway;
Slitting a niche for laying a lintel on ½ of the wall thickness;
Laying the lintel and filling it with concrete;
Slitting a niche for laying the second lintel (after the concrete has hardened on the first one) (The number of lintels can be more than 2 and equal to the wall thickness);
Tightening metal (steel) channels of lintels between themselves with bolts;
Drilling holes along the contour of the doorway at intervals of 20-30 mm;
Drilling holes for dividing the area of the doorway into squares (8-12), depending on the area;
Cutting the contour of the doorway and squares with a "grinder" on both sides of the wall;
Knocking out with a sledgehammer;
In a reinforced concrete wall - shearing of reinforcement;
Shtrobing niches for laying wooden bars for fastening the door frame;
Installation of vertical support channels along the slopes of the opening;
Welding (bolting) with load bearing lintel;
Anchoring in the thickness of the wall;
Leveling and plastering the contour of the doorway.

There is a lot of useful information about the most effective ways of cutting and drilling concrete, as well as about the tools used for this in a separate article:.

Opening in a brick wall

The list of works is similar to the case with an opening in a load-bearing wall with some peculiarities.

Doorway in a brick wall

Brickwork is characterized by the presence of a large number of dressings between individual bricks, therefore, after removing the plaster on the vacated wall, they try to combine the contour of the future opening with the joints of the bricks with mortar. Particular attention should be paid to the upper border of the doorway. It must necessarily pass at the junction of the bricks. It is strictly forbidden to cut bricks lengthwise in order to adjust the dimensions of the opening to the dimensions of the box. The excess space above the lintel is filled with mortar.

It is advisable to knock out bricks cut along the contour of the opening with a hand chisel and a heavy hammer, hitting the joint between the bricks. Disassembly of brickwork is always carried out from top to bottom. It is not advisable to use an impact hammer or jackhammer so that vibration does not destroy the bonds between bricks in adjacent sections of the wall.

If it is not possible to cut through the side surfaces of the doorway due to the large thickness of the brickwork completely, the cavities formed after the removal of the bricks are immediately filled with cement mortar. Before this, the brickwork is abundantly moistened with water.

Arrangement of an opening in a concrete (reinforced concrete) wall

A characteristic feature of the device of openings in reinforced concrete walls is the presence of metal reinforcement in the thickness of the wall. To prevent breakage of cutting discs (especially expensive ones with diamond dusting), preliminary, using a metal detector, the locations of the reinforcement rods are determined and marked with a bright indelible marker. The holes are drilled at a distance of 20-30 mm away from them. The frequency of drilling holes in the area of the opening increases in comparison with openings in a brick or block wall by 2-3 times.

Doorway in a concrete wall

In order to save time, it is more convenient to replace cutting discs with two grinders at the same time: on one - with a disc for concrete, on the second - for metal.

After knocking out with the help of a perforator or a jackhammer of the upper row, the reinforcement is cut between the holes. After that, they begin to knock out the next row. Work is done from top to bottom.

In reinforced concrete walls, a transverse lintel is usually not laid, but the punched doorway is reinforced with an all-welded or prefabricated metal frame installed in the punched opening. It is fixed to the wall using expansion anchors or reinforcement rods driven into the wall by welding. For this, you can use the cut reinforcement protruding from the wall.

Opening in the wall made of blocks

Blocks that are especially popular in modern construction, for example, hollow blocks of expanded clay or slag concrete, are convenient to work with because they can be easily cut with cutting discs on stone (concrete). The number of dressings is much less than in brickwork. A block, unlike a brick, can be cut across along the upper edge of the opening without losing its strength. The principle of arranging the opening is the same as when working with brickwork. The lintel above the opening should be wider than the door opening by the length of the block on each side.

The technology of strengthening the sides of the doorway is similar to that in brick walls.

Expansion of the wall opening

Technologically simpler option. Initially, the length of the lintel located above the doorway is determined. After that, the possible width of the opening is calculated. The lintel must rest on the masonry at least 500 mm. If this condition cannot be met, a vertical groove is initially grooved along the side of the wall from which it is planned to expand. After that, a vertical support (channel) is mounted in the groove, which should fit tightly against the lower edge of the lintel. Similarly, fix the vertical support on the other side of the wall. Pull or weld them together. Only after that work begins on drilling and cutting out the wall to expand the opening.

Carrying out work on the construction of a doorway is physically hard and very dusty work. It is recommended to carry it out on your own only on non-bearing (interior) walls, lined with bricks or blocks.

Over time, many of us come to the decision to change the existing layout of our home, so quite often the question arises of how to break through a door in the wall, make an arch or an opening, combining two rooms into one. It is relatively easy to carry out the necessary repairs with construction skills. However, it is necessary to take into account not only the structural features of the structure, but also some legal aspects. Before redevelopment, it is imperative to approve the project for future redevelopment, as well as take permission from the Housing Inspectorate of the city or district. The initial stage includes preliminary preparatory work, the acquisition of equipment and building materials necessary for work.

Preparatory stage

If there is a need to punch an opening in brick, stone, concrete walls, you will need a perforator with various attachments, a grinder, a saw with diamond discs, a sledgehammer, a jackhammer, a chisel, a tape measure, a pencil, and a construction vacuum cleaner. All work must be done with utmost care, adhering to a strict sequence and safety precautions, since redevelopment is a rather laborious, complex and responsible process. Before starting the repair work, it is necessary to check whether there is any wiring, utilities or chimney in the wall at the place of punching the opening, the minimum distance to which should be at least 300 m. If necessary, the wiring can be moved. You also need to take into account in which brick wall (bearing, non-bearing, stiffness) the door, arched opening will be punched, so as not to deform and weaken the entire supporting structure of the building. If an opening is made for a door in curtain walls, in order to reduce the risk of collapse, to prevent deformation, markings are made, and the dismantling of bricks begins from the upper rows (from top to bottom), directing the chisel perpendicular to the surface. In addition, you must first draw up a project of the doorway.

Old coatings and wallpaper are dismantled from the surface of brick walls and a layer of plaster is removed. The plaster layer is removed until the brick appears. Then, using a tape measure, with a pencil or chalk, mark the marking of the future opening. To prevent the wall from sagging and collapsing, you need to know how to strengthen the doorway correctly. First of all, you need to make a reinforcing jumper from a corner of at least 35 mm in size. To do this, cut off two corners, which should be 35-40 cm longer than the opening. The reinforcing lintel provides a protective function, taking part of the load from the wall above the future opening, from the supporting floors, as well as from the walls of the upper floors, the roof structure. The safety of the entire structure of the wall and structure fully depends on the quality of the installed lintel. It is preferable to use strong steel for the manufacture of the lintel. When designing a lintel, the following aspects must be taken into account: the size (length and width) of the doorway in relation to the total area of the walls; distance from the opening to adjacent walls; the distance from the upper border of the opening to the floors; the thickness, general condition and building material from which the wall was erected, its quality, technical characteristics; the number of floors above the doorway; the location of floor slabs.

Sequence of work

After completing the preparatory stage, you can proceed to the main work, namely, dismantling the brick wall and punching an opening to install the door. For this, it is preferable to use a sledgehammer with a chisel, a saw with a diamond disc, or a jackhammer. Using a grinder with diamond wheels, a perforator on both sides of the wall, you need to drill the top of the opening, which should be 17-22 cm larger than the width of the doorway itself. The depth and width of the holes must be equal to the size and width of the corner. In the next step, you need to insert the pre-prepared steel corners into the holes made and secure them with anchor pins. The slots are filled with a cement-concrete mixture. When using a diamond wheel, work is carried out in goggles. Along the pre-marked lines of the doorway, using a grinder, the wall is cut to such a depth that the diameter of the diamond circle allows, after which a sledgehammer (puncher) begins to gradually remove the bricks. It is worth noting that it is necessary to disassemble the brick on both sides of the wall, while it is permissible to disassemble only one layer of brickwork in one go. After dismantling the bricks on the sides, it will be quite easy to cut a hole further. At the next stage, the jumper is completed. To do this, two corners are welded together in the lower part or fasten them together with metal plates or self-tapping screws for metal. At the final stage, the necessary finishing work is carried out and a new door is installed.

Punching an opening in concrete walls

Since concrete walls are mainly load-bearing, if there is no experience in carrying out such construction work, it is better to entrust the punching of the opening to professional craftsmen who can accurately carry out all the necessary calculations, taking into account the design features of the strapping and the reinforcing frame. Punching an opening in a load-bearing wall begins with markings that are made on both sides. In order to transfer the markings to another wall surface, a puncher and drills with a diameter of 10-12 mm are used, which make through cuts around the entire perimeter, retreating every three to four centimeters. Since concrete walls, unlike brick walls, have a high density and thickness, all work is performed only with diamond discs.

After the opening for the installation of the door has been punched, a strapping is made of steel corners, fixed to each other by welding, or channels of the required length are used. To install channels, niches are punched on both sides of the wall using a jackhammer, or the work is done manually. Each groove for the placement of channels is well cleaned of brick residues and dust, after which a cement-concrete mixture is laid on the surface of the niches moistened with water and channels or corners are inserted into it. The resulting voids are covered with slabs of aerated concrete, bricks of the required size. Screws are inserted into the holes made, on the ends of which washers are put on and nuts are screwed. After the cement mixture has completely dried and hardened, you can punch an opening in the wall. A reinforcing metal mesh is mounted on the slopes and the lintel and poured on top with a layer of concrete mortar. After plastering the surface, finishing work is carried out and the door is installed.

It is worth noting that if the opening for the installation of the door is punched in the outer wall, it is necessary to additionally think over the insulation, which will prevent the penetration of heat into the room. To do this, use special waterproofing building materials and insulation.

Did you like the article? Share with your friends:

Today, door installation is not a very difficult matter, since door manufacturers sell their products already equipped with a box, hinges and a handle, and often already painted or opened with varnish. You can choose suitable interior doors for almost any opening. If the opening does not correspond to the standard dimensions, then you will have to order the door according to the individual size. The installation takes into account not only the width and height of the opening, but also its thickness.

Before starting the installation, you need to moisten the opening in order to achieve good adhesion of the polyurethane foam to the cavity of the opening.

The bag is then inserted into the opening and aligned vertically and horizontally. You need to focus on the width of the gap between the box and the canvas. In theory, it should be the same at least on opposite sides of the door.

After completing the alignment, it is necessary to fix the sides of the box with fasteners, and seal the cavities with polyurethane foam. After the foam dries out, you need to remove its excess and attach the platbands.

Only then can the canvas itself be put in place. And finally, the operation of the door itself and the door lock is checked.

Installation of an interior door. An interior door is perhaps one of the most significant elements of a living space, not only in functional terms, but also as a design object.

The choice and installation of a door is a crucial step, since the beauty and comfort of the room largely depends on it.

Making an opening for a door in the wall

The door is installed after the completion of all repair work, but it is necessary to select it before the start of the repair, so that later you do not have to expand or narrow the doorway.

The dealer network of stores is widely known and enjoys well-deserved popularity, where doors of standard sizes, designed for installation in standard doorways, are sold.

Before choosing a door, it is necessary to measure the opening, if it is standard, then you can safely buy the sample you like, if not, then during the repair it will be necessary to adjust the opening to the dimensions of the door block, while making sure to leave a small gap so that the box can easily enter.

An opening is considered ideal if it is 80 mm larger in width and height than the door block, and its thickness is 75 mm.

A small gap around the perimeter of the box will be closed with platbands.

If the parameters of the doorway do not correspond to the standard ones, then it is better to make the door to order, then during installation you will not have to build up or cut the frame of the door block.

The sequence of work is as follows:

1. First remove the base

If there is a cement base, you can cast it at the end with the last brick type. Cement plaster facing the door contour.

2. More bricks are cleared under the new lintel

at the level of 2.1-2.15 m, and the old cement mortar falls out of the brick in the molded niche.

The width of the embossed rope should be 100-300 mm greater than the width of the door frame to be installed. When setting up a 60 cm door leaf, it is necessary to confirm 4 bricks (in the image of a brick with a contour door that are being cleaned, they are indicated in white) for doors made of 70, 80 and 90 cm leaves - 5 bricks (the fifth brick is shown in purple in the figure) 6 need to be lit rarely bricks, but sometimes it is necessary:

Picture 1.

Barrier markings under the neck.

For acid spray bricks, at least the first, accompanied by minimal loss of stiffness of the barrier around the brick mortar, preferably before perforation for drilling, or at least perforation of the mortar around the brick. If the partition is set for a long time, a high-quality and long-term solution, if it stupidly hits the bricks, will come out of the load effect, it will first need to be redistributed to neighboring bricks, and therefore physical strength must consume much more to knock down the bricks.

And secondly, due to the redistribution of stress, the solution is completely destroyed in the place where the strikes are performed. Perforation reduces the surface of the mortar and increases the likelihood that the brick will sink. This recommendation also applies to cases where the masonry solution is too weak and simply destroyed, and especially for partitions in the Kiprikha quarter.

So, for example, the strength of the M150 solution for stretching can reach 2-2.5 kg / cm2 several years after the partition has split.

At the same time, the area of the mortar to be destroyed is about 700-800 cm2 around the brick on the floor of the brick wall. Accordingly, this solution can withstand a static load of up to 1.4-2 tons. Of course, during the operation, the multi-logical hammer produces a brick load, and the solution will be shock, and not static, but all are equal to clean bricks in such solutions for one blow of hammer hammers, the speed of the sled at the moment of contact with the brick rearrangement should be large enough, and the partition deformation small enough.

And besides, if the barrier is high enough, as close as possible to the bricks in the middle of the height, the probability of collapse of the entire partition is higher.

When performing perforation, the surface of the mortar around the brick decreases, in addition, the residual strength of the mortar decreases, and the redistribution of the load is significantly reduced.

However, they don't work well, but breaking bricks under a bridge can also cause bricks to fall.

It's okay, you can put them on your jumper.

3. A standard concrete or metal bridge is formed in the formed hole of the roller profiles.

The jumper should be on the solution.

If no specific awnings or metal corners are available, wood can be used locally or multiple 12-20mm diameter rebar can be placed.

fourth
Closed cement slot

the rest after laying the lintel (especially the seam between the lintel and the old brick line). In Figure 2, the new solution is dark gray. Small cracks can be blown up with prefabricated foam, but not just with a stitch between the new lintel and the old brick line.

fifth
After installing the jumper, you need a technological break of 5-14 days.

it is necessary for the new decision to take effect. After that, rows of bricks, of which the width of the new hole is 5-15 cm wider than the frame of the new doors.

How to make a door: punch a hole in a brick wall with your own hands

Since the baffle was stored in the suit, it must be carefully executed so as not to compromise the integrity of the indestructible portion of the baffle. This can be done in several ways:

6a. Remove the bricks first

which completely impede the new door. Half of the brick at a height of 1 m from the ground, preventing the appearance of new doors (in the image marked in red), smooth, in the part of the scattered hammer, blow or hammer and chisel.

The direction of impact should not be perpendicular to the plane of the partition, so as not to destroy the bulkhead, impacts must be applied from above or below. You can also completely dirty these bricks and then install the molded slots with half the bricks before installing the door. If, in the following order, there is enough space for the start of the percussion instrument, the remaining halves of the stop are selected or trimmed in Bulgarian (in the figure they are marked in blue):

Picture 2.

Brick markings under the neck.

6b. Cut hard surface bricks

Half a brick at a height of about 1 m from the floor, reaching the new door, cuts off the Bulgarian cutting circle around the stone on both sides, and then digs it out.

The rest of the distracting halves are demolished, as in the previous case.

6c. Immediately cut the Bulgarian bricks on both sides of the partition at the contour of the new door with the corresponding edge for the door installation, and then remove the bricks.

The dustiest way. However, every job is done with Bulgarian dust.

7. If the bottom line is a brick to be removed in a screed, it must be punctured piece by piece. Use bulgark under unfavorable conditions and there will be more dust than usual.

After removing this line, the floor surface is leveled with a cement screed.

It's all and everything remains doors.

Door frame manufacturing

There are two options for installing doors, which depend on the requirements for your site.

If the location of the doorway is strictly defined, the structure is "tied" to it and is adjusted so that the seams are not placed on the pillars of the door's drywall (Fig. 1a).

If the position of the aperture is allowed to change, it can be "fixed" in the plan, that is, where there are no joints (Fig.

1, b). It is best to arrange the hole so that there are two structural struts on both sides of the door profiling. We can connect them to the door, which further strengthens the neck.

Attach the door frames to the vertical part of the wall of the partition frame, without installing additional reinforcements, if the following conditions are met: the height of the barrier does not exceed 2600 mm; door leaf width - no more than 900 mm; the weight of the door leaf does not exceed 25 kg.

In this case, the thickness of the partition with the door will be equipped with a reliable enclosure and guide profiles, which, in turn, must be fixed with cover inserts in the area of no more than 100 mm from the hole.

Above the door, a pinion profile fixes the bar, which increases the rigidity of the entire door frame structure. 1-2 intermediate points must be set between the crossbar and the top conductor.

There are three ways to cross the door.

Method 1... In the section of the PN profile, which is equal to the length of the door width plus 60 mm, the scissors make cuts 30 mm deep.

Then the profile is bent at an angle of 90 ° (Fig. 2, a).

How to make a door in the wall

The teaching part is fixed with a self-tapping screw on the profiles of the PS door profile (Fig. 2, b). The fastening of the sides of the tape is carried out on the shelves and in the folded back.

Method 2.

On the shelves, make a pair of scissors at a 45 ° angle and bend your back. FIG. 2c shows a pillar on a door with a roof, the shelves are cut at 45 ° and bent back at an angle of 90 °. The rod is attached to the stand at four points - two on the curved part and two on the bridge itself. This means only eight jumpers for the jumper.

Method 3... The bridge through the door frame is made of the length of the PN profile guide rail along the length of the door width plus about 200 mm.

Taking into account the width of the hole on the profile, the scissors cut the shelves on the back and bend the end at an angle of 90 ° (Fig. 2d). Bolt the prepared lintel through the curved rear section (Figure 2d). For improvement, insert the cross-section of the Mo-cross-section into the corners of the wooden rods and fix them on both sides with screws instead of the wrinkle profile (Fig. 3a).

This will ensure the reliability of the model. The insertion of rods into the corners is the knowledge of Russian craftsmen, such information is not available in the technical instructions of drywall manufacturers.

If one of the above conditions exceeds the norm, the frame of the frame that forms the hole should be reinforced. The Rigips company and the German company Knauf (from the point of view of the main company in Germany) recommend the use of 2 mm thick UA reinforced profiles.

Their widths correspond to standard CW / UW wall profiles - 50.75 and 100 mm. UA profiles are fixed to the floor and ceiling by means of connecting corners.

2. Making and fixing cross wires on the door:

a - production of a transverse sidewall (the back plate is cut and bent at an angle of 90 °); b - rods with side walls (the backs are cut and bent at an angle of 90 °) inside the partition; V - opening of the entrance door with an angle corner and a door with a side wall (the flange is cut at an angle of 45 °, the backrest is bent at an angle of 90 °): 1 - SS profile, 2 - PN profile 3 - crossbar 4 - screw LN9, 5 - insertion angle for the bottom door frame, 6 is the corner corner for the top door frame; g - cross-section with a side wall (angle of rotation 90 °, bent back at an angle of 90 °): 1 - front, 2 - door, 3 - screw LN9; d - Door frame door with corner corners and side walls (pillar at an angle of 90 °, backrest bent at an angle of 90 °): 1 - lower rail 2 - upper guide 3 - front door frame, 4 - door insert lower edge, 5 - insert corner for the upper part of the door, b - rods.

The corners are fixed to the floor and ceiling with dowels and connected to the reinforced profile with an M8 pin with washer and nut.

In practice, this multiplication is carried out either by pressing the post of the wooden beam followed by the fixing screws (see Fig. 3a, b) or by installing an additional profile (Fig. 3c).

The maximum door leaf weight depends on the selected profile. According to the German and Austrian standards in the CW50 profile, you can adjust the door leaf weight of 30 kg, within the CW75 profile it weighs 40 kg, the CW100 frame profile weighs 49 kg.

When using a reinforced profile UA (thickness 2 mm), the weight of the door leaf for wall mounting increases to profile UA50 - 50 kg, for profile UA75 - 75 kg, for profile UA100 - 100 kg.

Window openings and niches on partitions are reinforced with gaskets in accordance with the same principle as the door.

Making the door in the area of the frame near the wall where the barrier differs is the same as above. Mark the tracks from floor to ceiling on the track profile that will be attached to the base wall. Then add the length of the shorter section of the baffle on each side and cover the excess with sharp scissors.

On the floor and ceiling lines, the profile strips are cut for the backrest, and the corners of the corners are slightly cut at these points so that they do not interfere with the bending. The ends of the profile are made in accordance with the marking at an angle of 90 °. Align the drive profile with nails with the rail and the level of the structure (fig. 4).