Installation of lathing under mdf. DIY installation of mdf panels on walls

Wall decoration with MDF panels is a method that has many advantages over other types of construction work. The fact is that the technology allows installation in a fairly short time. A significant advantage is that there is no need to carry out additional processing of the coating. The cladding is carried out in different ways: glue and frame. It is the last method that is considered the most laborious.

This material has numerous advantages that make it indispensable for. These include the following indicators:

Simplicity of installation work. Even if you use the longest frame method, then the work will be much less than when laying drywall.
Large selection of shades and textures. MDF wall panels allow you to choose an option that will appeal to any person, will be able to create a completely unique interior.
The ability to get multiple results at once. Namely - to erect a crate that will hide numerous communications and serve as a basis for insulation, as well as create a smooth decorative surface.
Durability and reliability. The density of the MDF board is superior to some types of natural wood, and the decorative surface is made in such a way that it is very difficult to damage it.
Ease of care. Indeed, cleaning is done with a damp cloth. Any stain is removed with alcohol solutions (except for cosmetics).

MDF panels allow you to create a unique interior design, besides, they are easy to care for

On a note! The wood-fiber material is covered with a decorative layer by lamination or veneering. And often there is a problem that after removing stains with alcohol mixtures, numerous stains remain on the surface. Get rid of them by reapplying the solution. The main thing is to continue mashing until the liquid has completely evaporated.

Naturally, such positive properties indicate that MDF panels on the wall are an excellent option. But we must not forget about some of the disadvantages:

Getting the perfect smooth finish is simply not possible. There will always be a small joint between adjacent elements. If desired, it can serve as an excellent decorative component.
An improperly erected frame is a threat to human health safety. The resulting gap is a great breeding ground for mold and mildew. The glue method has the same disadvantage.
A damp room poses a threat to the covering material and the frame. The risk of warpage is quite high.

Thus, we can conclude that it is advisable to carry out finishing with MDF panels when it is planned to comply with the laying technology.

Despite the ease of installation, MDF panels have their drawbacks

Preparation of tools and material

For quick and comfortable work, it is necessary to prepare the tool in advance and purchase materials. The event is performed using the following devices:

Electric jigsaw with a set of saws, which must be selected specifically for wood.
Plumb line and level. The laser instrument has proven itself well.
Pencil and tape measure. Better to have a flat rail or profile for accurate marking.
Screwdriver. A drill is suitable, which can switch to low speed.
Stapler. A simple option is used for homework.
Hammer.

Installation of MDF panels requires a special tool

The frame method of attaching panels to walls requires more materials than glue, which requires only a special mixture and self-tapping screws (for mounting the first MDF element).

For cladding with the frame method, you will need:

Wooden beam, pre-impregnated with an antiseptic. It is better to choose options with a section of 20 * 40 and 20 * 50. If possible, then a metal profile is used - they select the same one as for laying gypsum boards.
Insulation that is glued directly to the wall. You can use options stacked in cells. They must be fixed in advance.
Metal suspensions.
Cleamers - for fixing panels.
Dowel. The condition of the base must be taken into account.
Panels and additional elements that are used to create beautiful corners and transitions.
Consumables.

In principle, a limited amount of money will be required to install MDF panels. Of course, if you do not pay attention to products that are covered with fine wood veneer.

Surface preparation stages

Before sheathing the walls, you need to prepare the surface. It consists of several stages, each of which begins only after the previous one has been completed. The most important rule, the observance of which makes it possible to obtain the desired result, is a completely dry wall.

Work cannot be carried out in the following cases:

Even slight damp areas are observed.
The surface is covered with frost.
There are traces of mold and mildew.
The top layer is destroyed.

If there are no such troubles, then preliminary preparation can begin. It is completely identical for all methods of installation of MDF wall panels.

Complete cleaning

One gross mistake is often made - wallpaper remains on the walls. This is absolutely not to be allowed. They serve as an excellent breeding ground for bacteria. And with the glue method, they will not give the opportunity to securely fix the elements.

You should completely get rid of old wallpaper and whitewash

The layer of whitewash is also removed, although many masters argue that such a procedure is not necessary. In fact, when the need arises to apply a primer, it is the old layer that will interfere with its absorption. Therefore, it is best to clean the wall completely.

Fighting mold and mildew

Unfortunately, this problem is widespread, especially in new buildings and old wooden houses. It is quite difficult to deal with it. There are recommendations that indicate that it is enough to treat the damaged areas with special solutions. Many manufacturers even produce them as a spray.

After removing the old coating, it is necessary to remove the mildew and mold.

It should be noted right away that you can only defeat the fungus by destroying its entire mycelium. Therefore, there is only one way out - removing the plaster to the base, thorough impregnation with special solutions. Of course, the amount of work is increasing, but the likelihood of the complete elimination of the threat to health appears.

On a note! Fighting mold (mildew) is a very long undertaking. It is necessary to eliminate sources of constant penetration of moisture, as well as to treat all contaminated apartments in an apartment building. This will make it possible to produce high-quality MDF paneling.

This procedure is necessary even if the installation of the frame is planned. The fact is that any cracks can reduce the thermal insulation effect. The work is carried out using the following technology:

A putty mixture is being prepared. It is better to choose gypsum or acrylic compounds.
Seams and cracks must first be widened. They are thoroughly cleaned from the remnants of the old solution.
The site is well impregnated with primers.
Further, when the soil dries up, the mixture is smeared. All the voids must be filled.

Installation of MDF panels requires complete wall tightness

Coating with a primer

This event allows you to increase the adhesion of materials, as well as do it yourself with better quality. For work, formulations are selected that have deep penetration. To further protect the surface, the mixture must contain antiseptics. The primer is applied in two layers, each of which dries well. Especially carefully impregnate the walls before installing the MDF panels with glue.

On a note! The processing of wooden surfaces should be carried out using a similar technology. But the mixture should contain fire retardants, which will give the lumber fire resistance.

Surface priming is a mandatory stage of the preparatory work

Frame erection

It is impossible to sheathe the walls with MDF panels without a well-built frame. It is necessary to create a reliable structure that will withstand the load. Installation is carried out in several stages.

Marking

Before starting the markup, you need to decide on the layout of the elements. They can be mounted horizontally, vertically and diagonally. All positions can be combined, but this requires the installation of dividing decorative elements. For the horizontal arrangement of the fragments, the crate is placed vertically on the wall with your own hands. Accordingly, for vertical cladding, the opposite is true.

The markup is performed according to the following principle:

A plumb line is used to obtain vertical markings. According to its location, points are marked between which lines are drawn.
If you need to perform horizontal marking, then the level is applied.

To apply vertical markings, a construction plumb line is required

Fastening the guides

Wall cladding with MDF panels for lathing is done in two ways. The choice of a particular method depends on the state of the substrate.

The guides are laid directly on the wall:
- This option is suitable for a wooden beam, in which holes are drilled with a step of 30-40 cm.
- The guides are applied to the marking lines and the holes made are marked.
- Drilling and installation of dowels is in progress.
- The uprights are securely fixed with screws. Further, you can carry out the installation of MDF panels.
The frame is erected using additional suspensions:
- The technology is used in cases where the surface has significant irregularities and differences.
- Suspensions are installed according to the existing markings. Fixing step 40-50 cm.
- The upper and lower guides are fixed along the perimeter.
- Racks are installed and fixed.

Installation of panels on the frame

Wall cladding with MDF panels begins after complete preparation. The lathing is once again checked for strength, the joints are stretched. If necessary, communications are carried out, the locations of sockets and switches are immediately marked. The cable is laid in cable channels, which are corrugated hollow tubes. They are fixed on the walls with their own hands.

Cladding work begins with sawing the products. But if there is a significant curvature of the ceiling and floor covering, which has not been previously corrected, then each element is cut off after careful measurement.

On a note! The facing material has a decorative front side, which can be significantly damaged when cutting off excess. Therefore, the location of the teeth on the jigsaw file must be taken into account.

Installation of MDF panels on walls has the following technology:

A ridge is cut from the first fragment, which is used for installation in the groove.
The element is installed in the corner and screwed with self-tapping screws along the edge, which is located directly in the corner.
Further, the installation of MDF is quick and easy. Clips are installed in the groove of the first part, which are fixed on the crate with a stapler or self-tapping screws (nails).
The next piece fits exactly into the groove. If required, the location of the cleaimer is trimmed (on one or both sides), this is necessary in order for the fixation to be reliable.
The last element is trimmed with a small gap to the wall. If this is not done, then it will be difficult to insert it. It is fastened with self-tapping screws.
To cover the corners and locations of the screws, decorative elements are glued.
Wall cladding with MDF elements requires the preparation of holes for sockets and switches. This boring is carried out before installing each part. For this, drill crowns are used.

From the above, we can conclude that laying material from MDF is not a laborious procedure, but it requires compliance with certain rules.

Today, one of the simplest and not time-consuming ways to implement a beautiful and even wall cladding is the installation of MDF panels. This material has won popularity due to its low cost and non-toxicity, as well as ease of attachment. All that is required to work is accuracy and precision.

Frame method for fixing panels

In practice, three methods are applied to the base: on a wooden frame, a crate from a metal profile and on an adhesive composition.

Wall insulation

During wall cladding with panels, it will not be superfluous to additionally insulate them by filling the sheathing chambers with heat-insulating material. In addition to insulation, protection against condensation in the space between the base and the cladding is provided.

In the summer, the heat inflow in the room will be significantly reduced, and in the winter, the heat loss will accordingly decrease, thereby allowing significant savings in payment for heat energy consumption.

Installation of wooden lathing

The technology of mounting a frame made of wooden slats, in contrast to a metal lathing, is simpler. For its construction, fewer fasteners are used, however, the crate requires a special antiseptic treatment and the cost of wooden boards is higher than the cost of a metal profile.

The frame installation process consists of several stages:

Marking the place of fixing the first lathing strip. It should be perpendicular to the length of the fixed panel strips. That is, if the slats of the panels are mounted horizontally, then the battens of the lathing should be placed vertically, and if the laths are mounted vertically, then the lattice should be placed horizontally.
Fastening the starting parts of the grill. A place is determined on the base with the largest protrusion; all other frame strips will be aligned with this beacon. The installation of the rails should begin with a row passing through the found projection on the base. Holes for self-tapping screws are drilled on the bar in increments of 50-60 cm. It should be noted that the more bumpy the wall, the smaller the step should be. A rail is applied to the holes on the wall exactly horizontally and the locations of the holes for the dowels are marked (preferably using a level). Then the plank is removed from the wall and, using a punch, holes are drilled in the base and plastic dowels are placed. Subsequent strips of the frame row are fixed in a similar way. To facilitate the alignment of the laths of the row, you can pull a bright thread along the initial plank, the ends of which are fixed with dowels in opposite corners of the room.
Manufacturing of subsequent rows of lathing. The first plank of the next row should be in the same vertical plane with the plank of the previous row. For checking, you can use the level applied to the laths of the nearest rows. If necessary, you can correct the fastening of the bar by placing small wedges under it. Then the thread is pulled again, which acts as a beacon. In this sequence, all rows of the crate are performed. The distance of the laths between adjacent rows should not be less than half a meter. Installation of horizontal strips is carried out in the same sequence, with a step of 40-60 cm, in this way the skin will not bend. For the subsequent installation of ceiling and floor skirting boards, rows of planks should be placed along the line of the ceiling and flooring of the room.
In all corners of the room, on each wall adjacent to one another, vertical slats are attached at right angles.
Installation of wooden battens around the perimeter of openings for windows and doors.

Installation of a metal frame

For the installation of a metal lathing, a metal profile and connecting fasteners are used. Fixation of products to the base is carried out by means of self-tapping screws, their length depends on the strength of the base. For the frame, two types of metal profiles are used: narrow (UD) and wide (CD).

The metal frame is made in the same way as the wooden one: racks in the corners and openings, as well as crossbeams.

The step of the frame is similar to that of a wooden lathing.

The technology for making a metal frame is as follows:

Installation of narrow profiles in the corners, along the perimeter of door and window openings, as well as every three meters. This length corresponds to the length of the support leg. All intermediate components will be placed in these racks. The fixation should be carried out firmly in 15-25 cm increments.
The horizontal posts are connected to the horizontal profile by means of longitudinal cd connectors.
Key profiles are placed with their ends on the edge in the guide profiles and reinforced with self-tapping screws for strength.
If the length of the base, on which the casing will be attached, is more than two meters, then in order to avoid bending of the profiles from the load of their own weight, it is necessary to additionally fix the fastening brackets. The edges of the staples are bent at right angles and, in this form, are placed in the place where the profile is installed. After fixing the profile in the guides, the brackets are fixed to it with bent parts, and their excess part is cut off. Before the final fixing of the horizontal racks, without fail, the horizontal is checked with a level. If there are any errors, then at this stage of installation they can be corrected.

Fixing panels

Installation of trim on the frame is much easier than preliminary work. The panels can be installed from any corner of the room.

Fastening of MDF coating is carried out in the following order:

Layout and cutting of the launch panel. Using a tape measure, measure the required length of the panel by marking the appropriate mark on it. Using a jigsaw, saw off the excess part and a spike that runs along the entire length of the panel.
Cutting holes in the casing for lighting fixtures.
Attaching the original panel. The cloth is applied to the attachment point in such a way that the back side is adjacent to the crate close to the crate. The side adjacent to the corner at a distance of 1 cm from its edge is attached to all frame slats with self-tapping screws. From the side of the groove, the panel is fastened with metal clips (clamps) so that its protrusion fits into the groove of the panel, firmly fixing it. The clips are attached to the frame strips by means of nails.
Installation of subsequent canvases. Cut the required length of the cover, then place its spike in the groove of the previous panel and fasten it to the frame with clips. All subsequent panels installed to the opposite corner of the wall are attached in the same way. Often, the last canvas does not fit completely, so it is adjusted to the desired size. Only the segment that is on the side of the thorn is needed, therefore the segment of the canvas with the groove is cut off. Next, the spike is inserted into the groove of the previous panel, and part of the panel, which rests on the frame of the adjoining wall, is fixed with nails to the battens of the sheathing. In this sequence, all walls of the room are finished with canvases.
Installation of ceiling and floor skirting boards. The fixing of the skirting boards can be done in several ways: using fasteners, using self-tapping screws and using glue.
The final stage of panel installation is the installation of a finishing corner, which covers all corner joints of the covering. To do this, a thin layer of glue mixture is applied to the measured length of the corner, applied to the corner of the walls and gently but firmly pressed it. To evenly distribute the glue, using a rag, you can walk along the length of the corner several times from the bottom up and back.

Installation on glue

This method of fastening is suitable when the surface of the walls does not have irregularities or the task is to carefully level them. Also, the installation of panels on glue is necessary when the surface of the walls is tiled.

Installation in this way does not require the arrangement of any frame.

First of all, let's decide on the type of glue that is suitable for this type of work. Any glue in this case will not work, you need a composition that has certain properties:

plasticity not only during operation, but also after solidification (the composition must withstand temperature fluctuations);
thick texture so that you can apply it not only with a thin, but also with a thick layer (in this case, construction glue - liquid nails are perfect).

Installation technology includes several stages:

Cleaning the surface of the base from the old coating, dust, dirt and layers, followed by processing the primer mixture.
While the primer layer dries, you can cut the panels to the required size.
After the soil has dried, you can start installing the panels. To do this, glue is applied pointwise in a checkerboard pattern with large drops of glue. Then the canvas is pressed tightly against the wall, after which it is torn off, this is done in order to weather the glue, and also so that the sheathing does not lag behind the base under the weight of its weight. After 5-7 minutes, the canvases are applied to the wall and pressed tightly.

This installation method has several disadvantages:

from the effects of temperature changes when the seasons of the year change, the lining can swell, in the worst case, peel off;
when changing the finish, it will be necessary to clean the base from the remnants of glue, as well as the inability to reuse the dismantled panels.

If the room in which the MDF finish is planned has traces of dampness, swelling or peeling of the putty, before cladding, it is imperative to remove the old coating to the main base.
The lowest horizontal post of the batten should be on the floor to ensure that the skirting boards are firmly attached.
Experts recommend attaching the cover to the frame, even though the profile reduces the space of the room. This is due to the fact that the cladding has additional ventilation and is less susceptible to seasonal fluctuations in temperature and humidity compared to the adhesive method.
During the installation of the battens, you can use two types of materials, constructing the base around the perimeter from a metal profile, and the transverse elements from wooden slats.
Wooden slats for the frame must be well dried and even.
Due to the fact that MDF is a highly flammable material, care should be taken that all external electrical wiring is removed in a corrugated cable pipe, and sockets and electrical switches in boxes.
MDF cladding, in fact, is a thick pressed cardboard, and accordingly, it is susceptible to moisture. Therefore, prolonged exposure to moisture on the surface will lead to delamination and swelling of the coating.
Professionals advise, during the installation of the lathing, to transfer the location of the planks to the paper on the basis with exact observance of the coordinates. This will make it possible in the future to place any interior items on the wall precisely at the place where the rails are attached, and not on the cladding, on the surface of which it is strictly forbidden to attach anything.

Using MDF panels is the easiest way to decorate the walls of a room, especially if you need an additional layer of thermal insulation. At the same time, it is quite possible to do the installation of MDF panels with your own hands in a very short period of time.

To mount the panels, you will need:

tape measure and pencil - with their help you will mark the places for fixing the lathing bars and the required length of the panels;
metal corner and level - to check the evenness of corners, horizontality and verticality of the mounted elements;
jigsaw - for cutting panels to the desired length or width;
construction stapler or nails with a hammer - for fixing the panels to the crate;
drill and self-tapping screws (dowel-nails) - for attaching the sheathing bars to the wall;
screwdriver or screwdriver.

Surface preparation

One of the main advantages of MDF panels is that there is no need to completely level the surface to which you are going to attach them. In this case, it does not matter at all whether the wall was previously painted or not, and from what material it was made (brick, concrete, blocks, wood). It is enough just to cover the plastered or wooden surface (by 2 times) with a primer (or a special compound to protect wood), and then either fix the lathing immediately for mounting MDF panels, or first fix a layer of thin thermal insulation on the wall (using liquid nails) (such as folgoizol).

Ceiling

If desired, MDF panels can be easily fixed to the ceiling. In this case, it is better to be guided by the rule that MDF panels should be located perpendicular to the wall with the window. The principle of installing MDF panels on the ceiling and walls is the same, with one small exception: for facing the ceiling, you will most likely need an assistant who will support the panel and feed the tool.

Installation technology

The process of installing MDF panels with your own hands implies that you will be fixing them on a wooden crate, which is fixed with a certain step (in a direction perpendicular to the direction of installation of the panels) bars of any section. In this case, the size of the bar (its width and thickness) does not matter much (that is, any of the same thickness will do).

If you are going to lay a layer of insulation (mineral wool or glass wool) under the MDF panel, the thickness of the bar should correspond to the thickness of the thermal insulation layer.

After preparing the bars for the lathing, the do-it-yourself installation of MDF panels will be carried out as follows:

Select the direction of installation of MDF panels.
In the perpendicular direction to the panels to be installed, fix the crate: the lower beam at a distance of 3 to 5 centimeters from the floor, the upper beam - 2-3 cm from the ceiling, between them fix the bars with self-tapping screws in increments of no more than 45-50 centimeters.
Check the verticality of the resulting surface. If necessary, place pieces of plywood, fiberboard or laminate under the battens.

Fasten vertical battens around (along the perimeter) of windows and doors, as well as in the corners.
If you decide to mount the panels vertically, then you should start the installation of MDF panels with your own hands from the corner, moving from right to left. Attach the first panel (from the edge with a ridge) to the bars along the entire height using self-tapping screws, which should be as close as possible to the corner of the room.
Fasten the second edge of the panel with clamps specially designed for working with MDF, which can be attached to the bar with a construction stapler or small nails.
We install all other panels on the wall in the same way, inserting the comb into the groove.
The last (on each wall) MDF panel must be cut to the desired size, and then inserted into the groove of the previous one, securing the cut side with self-tapping screws to the bars.

After finishing the installation of MDF panels with your own hands, do not forget to close the corners of the room with special MDF corners, which are simply glued on top of the panel. Self-tapping screws holding the outer panels should be hidden under these corners.
Similarly, glue the MDF corners to the edges of the panels near windows and doors.

Advantages and disadvantages of MDF panels

The undoubted advantages of MDF panels include not only ease of installation (they can be fixed both vertically and horizontally), but also a beautiful appearance, which, due to a wide variety of colors, allows you to choose panels for almost any interior. In addition, MDF panels are easy to care for, since they do not require special cleaning (you just need to wipe it with a slightly damp cloth). And, of course, MDF panels are relatively cheap finishing materials.

But MDF panels also have disadvantages:

Firstly, the walls of such panels, due to the fact that they are attached to the crate, remain hollow.

If you decide to hang something on such a wall, you will have to use special long dowel nails. In addition, MDF panels do not resist impacts from sharp objects (although damaged finishes can be disassembled and replaced).

Secondly, the wooden lathing under the MDF panels belongs to combustible materials (like the panels themselves), so they cannot be used to decorate escape routes - corridors, staircases, etc. (this rule does not apply to individual residential houses and apartments).
Thirdly, MDF panels do not form a continuous, smooth, even surface (that is, you will always see the grooves at their joints), which imposes certain restrictions on the projected design of the room with their use.
Fourthly, if you make a step of the lathing more than the recommended one (45-50 cm), then the panels can begin to "play" under external influence from the room (for example, if you lean on them).

However, even in spite of the shortcomings of MDF panels, they still create competition for drywall, the installation of sheets of which requires much more skills and people (at least two), while you can work with MDF panels alone.

Video

This video demonstrates the process of installing MDF panels.

MDF panels are widely used not only due to their low cost and environmental friendliness. Do-it-yourself installation of MDF panels is simple; it requires only elementary accuracy and precision. It is possible to create a MDF coating with good decorative qualities without being a carpenter or finisher; the skills of a home craftsman are enough.

What is MDF?

MDF (MDF - Medium Density Fibreboard - English, HDF - German) is made from wood waste. But they should not be confused with fiberboard or particleboard. MDF is produced by dry hot pressing of wood, without binder. The essence of this method is that the microscopic tubes and lignin fibers that make up the wood, under high pressure and temperature, become plastic, as if steamed, adhere and stick together. The structure of MDF is similar to felt, but not from wool, but from wood fibers.

MDF does not differ in special mechanical properties, but, due to the absence of a chemical binder, it is absolutely environmentally friendly. For interior decoration, MDF is ideal. Techniques for working with MDF are the same as for wood. MDF is glued with any wood glue. Especially for MDF, an adhesive composition “Liquid Nails” has been developed - a construction glue filled with sawdust, which allows both gluing and filling cracks and filling holes with self-tapping heads.

Note: MDF panels are produced with a decorative outer coating. When buying liquid nails, make sure that the tone of the hardened composition matches the tone of the MDF panels used. The sample is a frozen drop on the lid of the jar, or from the seller.

Tool for work

In addition to the usual household tools, you will need a plumb line (it is easy to make it yourself from a nut, not a fishing line or thread), a tape measure, a building level and a drill attachment for screwing in self-tapping screws. It is quite possible to do without a special screwdriver. You also need a fitter's square (metal, with legs of different thickness). It will be convenient to cut pieces for slopes along it: a thick leg is used as a stop, and based on a thin one, they make a cut.

To cut MDF, you need a jigsaw or a hand-held circular saw. The saw is good for its compactness, convenience - it is similar in size and shape to a hair clipper - and versatility. By changing complete circles, you can cut wood, metal, stone. But a saw with a cutting depth of more than 12 mm or more is more expensive than a jigsaw; the thickness of MDF is 16 mm.

Installation technologies

Important: if the room for MDF finishing at least once once became damp, if traces of biting, swelling or peeling of the plaster are noticeable, if the plaster is bumpy, uneven or its layer is more than 12 mm, then before finishing MDF the plaster must be removed to the main wall. In any case, it is advisable to remove the plaster - this will reduce the cost of fasteners and will reveal hidden defects in the walls. Of course, the skirting boards also need to be removed.

Two technologies are used for the installation of MDF wall panels:

On a wooden crate;
On a frame made of special galvanized profiles.

It is easier to make a wooden crate, it requires less hardware for fasteners, but wooden slats, or even a slab, are more expensive than a metal frame. In addition, the wooden lathing requires preliminary impregnation against fungus, rot and mildew. In damp rooms and in brick houses, it is definitely not recommended to use a wooden crate: moisture and fungal spores can penetrate from the outside simply through the pores of the brick, and the cavities between the cladding and the wall are an ideal environment for the development of pests.

For the metal frame, you will need UD profiles (guides) and CD. Both of them are U-shaped and differ only in the configuration in the section. For the CD profile, sellers often offer mounting ends ("ears") and connectors. Their use makes sense when performing a large amount of work in a limited time. When self-finishing one or two rooms, it is quite possible to do without them. How - will be described below.

Read more about the crate and its methods here.

About thermal insulation

In the process of finishing the room with MDF panels, it makes sense to additionally insulate it by filling the crate cells with foam on construction foam or silicone. The foam protrusions are cut off with an assembly knife.

In addition to the actual insulation, this will provide additional protection against the accumulation of condensate in the voids and the development of tree pests. MDF is the same wood, and is also susceptible to their effects, although to a lesser extent.

In the summer, when the building warms up, the flow of heat into the room will significantly decrease. Just MDF on the frame - a single heat shield with a reflectivity of about 0.25. With a foam layer - double screen. The reflectivity of the foam is more than 0.7; accordingly, no more than (1 - 0.7) x (1 - 0.25) = 0.225 heat will enter the room through the walls against the previous one. The outflow of heat through the walls in winter will decrease by the same amount.

Considering that the heat exchange through the walls is at least 0.15 of the total heat flux, one can expect a reduction in heating / air conditioning costs by at least 10%, and this is a tangible value in the budget at the existing tariffs.

If more serious internal thermal insulation is planned, read more about it at the link.

Lathing

Fasteners for lathing

The wooden lathing is attached to the wall either with self-tapping screws or with mounting nails (dowel nails). The dowel-nail is similar to a self-tapping screw with a smooth asymmetrical thread profile. It is driven into a plastic clip-socket with a hammer. On the head of the dowel-nail there is a slot for a screwdriver, so that, if necessary, it can be turned out. The metal crate is fastened only with self-tapping screws.

For fastening the lathing, fasteners with a diameter of 4-6 mm are used. The stronger the base wall, the smaller the required diameter. Each self-tapping screw or dowel-nail is equipped with a plastic socket. Holes in the wall for fasteners must be drilled according to the diameter of the nest body; elastic protrusions are not taken into account. The socket is hammered into the hole with light hammer blows.

The body of the fastener (nail, self-tapping screw) must sit in the main wall for at least 30-40 mm. For example, if the thickness of the plaster layer is 12 mm and a rail or profile with a thickness of 40 mm is used for the lathing, the thickness of MDF is 16 mm, then the length of the hardware must be at least 12 + 40 + 16 = 68 mm. Those. fasteners are needed with a length of 70-80 mm. The depth of the holes for the nests is equal to the length of the nest + 15-20 mm for dust and crumbs. In this case, 100 mm. If the drill is longer, fit a stop tube over it. But do not drill too deeply: the thickness of the walls between the rooms can be half a brick, it is less than 200 mm with two layers of plaster.

Wooden lathing

We start the wooden crate with the installation of vertical racks. We put the racks in all corners, in pairs, so that they form a corner, and along the edges of window and door openings from floor to ceiling. We verify the verticality of the racks with a plumb line.

Having attached the stand, we outline it on one side with a pencil along the wall and drill holes for fasteners with a drill on concrete or stone with a pitch of 500-700 mm. We drive the nests for fasteners into them, mark their position on the rack with a pencil. Then we drill holes in the rack with a diameter of 2/3 of the diameter of the fastener and attach it in place. For more experienced craftsmen, the holes in the racks are drilled in advance, and the marking of the holes in the wall is done right through them.

Further, in a similar way, we mount horizontal logs with the same step. Each piece of the log is fixed with the same pitch as the post. On the top of the openings and under the window sills, we must install logs, regardless of whether they are "one step" or not. We also form the slopes of the openings with slats, along the inner and outer edges, without crossbars. The final stage - we remove the ledges at the joints of the rails with a plane.

Note: when lathing the ceiling, keep in mind that MDF panels are located along the racks and across the lags. That is, if the cladding panels on the ceiling will be located along its short side, then the ceiling lathing should be done parallel to its long side, and vice versa.

Metal crate

The metal lathing is made in a similar way: racks in the corners and openings, then crossbars. The step of the lathing is the same as the wooden one. The racks are made from the UD profile, the CD profiles are inserted and pushed into them. Then the CD, after alignment with a level and a tape measure along the horizontal and step, are attached to the UD, and then to the wall, in the holes pre-drilled in it.

The parts of the metal lathing are connected to each other with short self-tapping screws. The CD is also attached to the wall with self-tapping screws. Dowel-nails cannot be used: the fasteners will either not be finished off, or the profile will be distorted. The pieces of the CD profile are connected in advance to the desired length.

Note: work on a metal crate is best done using a small grinder or a hand-held circular saw. With an electric jigsaw, even with a metal file, the work is delayed and a lot of rejects are obtained.

Ears and connectors

"Ears" CD are made as follows: at the ends of the mounting pieces of the stick "P" cut to the width UD to the crossbar plus 2-3 mm. The cut should be done a little obliquely, so that from the ends of the "sticks" to the edge of the profile there is also 2-3 mm more than from the crossbar. Straight cut or back cut CDs may get stuck during insertion. "Ears" will be needed if the crate is made from CD only. If the stands are made of UD, then the CDs simply slide into them.

For CD connectors, we measure in advance its own piece of the required length. One connector requires 100-120 mm profile. If, for example, you need 10 connectors, they will take 1 - 1.2 m CD. The "P" sticks for CD are not straight, but curved inward. This bend must be cut off by the same 2-3 mm. Then we cut the workpiece into the required number of pieces.

Connect the CD as follows: the connector piece is pushed halfway into one of the joined profile pieces, and another piece is pushed onto the remainder. The connector will, of course, go into the spacer; there may be a small gap between the pieces to be joined. This is not scary, the work on the cladding will not be stalled or complicated by this.

Sometimes it is advised to additionally secure the connection with self-tapping screws; it is overkill. During installation, it already holds firmly enough due to friction. In the future, the connector will not fall out - the wall will not let - and will not slide sideways, because inserted with spacer.

Note: for communications - pipes, wiring in wooden slats or metal profiles, the crate cut grooves in place. Before the lathing, it is necessary to measure the height to which the communications protrude above the wall, and choose the thickness of the lathing elements by 5-10 mm more.

Paneling with MDF panels

Striker and Claymers

MDF panels are connected by a symmetrical tongue-and-groove lock in the form of a ridge and a corresponding groove. MDF panels can be fastened to the wooden crate with small nails, hammering them obliquely into the corner of the groove. To the end, the carnations are finished off with a metal striker and a hammer. It looks like a center punch for metal, only at its narrow end, instead of a point, there is a shallow depression along the head of the nail. A nail head can be made from a center punch by removing the point on an emery wheel and carefully drilling a recess on a drilling machine.

For fastening to a metal crate (and to a wooden one when working according to a standard scheme), clamps are used. Claymer - a small metal bracket to the hole for the fasteners and teeth that press the flange of the tongue groove. The glue is inserted into the groove of the MDF panel until it stops, and fixed with a self-tapping screw. Fastening with staples is more expensive and requires a lot of labor, but it is more reliable, and the cladding, if necessary, can be disassembled without damaging the MDF.

Installation of panels

Installation of MDF panels on a crate is much easier than preparatory work:

We start from the corner. We cut the required number of MDF panels to size for sheathing the mounting plane to the nearest rack. We go through the corners of the cuts once ("shirk") with sandpaper.
On the first panel, we cut off the tongue groove, and fix it in the corner with nails (on a wooden crate) or small self-tapping screws (on a metal one). From the side of the groove of the lock, we fix it with studs or stamps.
Put on the next panel, slide the comb into the groove, fix it along the groove, etc., until the last two panels remain.
The last panel is cut to length in size, with a grip of 2-5 mm, depending on which corner or plinth the final finishing will go.
Cut the ridge of the last panel in half and round it off.
We insert the last two panels into place with a “house”, press until they “snap into place”.
Push the last panel all the way onto the penultimate one; fix with self-tapping screws at the free edge.

Note 5:"The last two" is a responsible operation and requires some skills. It is advisable to pre-train on MDF images. If the training "house" gets stuck, you can pry it by the joint with a screwdriver.

Slope finishing

Decorating slopes with MDF panels is done in the same way, but two options are possible: pieces of MDF panels along and across the slope. If the slope is narrow, less than 1.8 times the width of the MDF panel, then it definitely needs to be sheathed across. With wide slopes, the choice of sheathing method is a matter of taste. Slopes, sheathed alternately with pieces of dark and light colors, look good. In general - at the discretion of the master and his family.

Corners and slots

There are no difficulties here: there are many corners and skirting boards for MDF of different profiles, standard sizes and tones on sale. Installation is reduced to trimming to size, rounding corners, sanding the sections with sandpaper and gluing with liquid nails or any glue for wood.

Video: DIY installation of MDF panels on walls

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Decorating the walls with natural materials, such as solid wood panels, lends nobility and style to the interior, but it is expensive and impractical. An excellent solution in this case is the choice of a material that combines the decorative appearance of natural wood and the durability and strength of artificial binders. MDF panels have gained well-deserved popularity among builders, they are used to decorate both living rooms and commercial and public premises. They are easy to attach to the wall and look neat and stylish.

Advantages and disadvantages of MDF panels for wall decoration

MDF is obtained from wood fibers processed at high pressure and temperature, pressed into a board.

Binders and useful additives give MDF special properties and advantages that are indispensable for wall cladding:

Disadvantages of the material:

low elasticity;
in conditions of high humidity, dampness penetrates through the untreated ends of the slab, which deforms and destroys the structure of MDF;
fire hazard.

How to properly fix MDF to the wall

Several types of MDF are produced, which are suitable for use in various operating conditions:

solid-pressed products have a smooth front surface, medium density, furniture is made from these sheets;
laminated panels are covered with a protective film on top, they are distinguished by increased strength and decorative effects;
moisture resistant boards are more expensive than conventional boards, they are denser and can be used in wet rooms: bathrooms and kitchens.

After evaluating the features of each type, you can make the best choice to create a durable finishing coating. Before starting the repair, you need to make a drawing of the room with the layout of the sheets and calculate the consumption of materials and fasteners.

To make it easier to work, make a drawing of the room and calculate the amount of consumables

For a correct calculation, it is necessary to subtract the area of window and door openings from the total area of the walls. To the result obtained, add 10% for possible trims.

There are several ways of attaching MDF panels to the wall, each of them has its own technological features, having studied which you can choose the most suitable option.

Fastening to a wooden crate

This method has many advantages:

the frame hides defects and differences in the height of the base, does not require careful preparation of the walls;
a space is formed for laying communications and wiring;
insulation can be placed under the panels;
it simplifies the replacement of an individual MDF board.

There are also disadvantages:

the space of the room decreases, which is especially important for small rooms;
fixing hinged decorative elements and furniture will require long anchors and embedded elements.

The surface under the finish in damp rooms can accumulate condensation and become a favorable environment for the development of harmful mold and mildew. To solve this problem, it is necessary to treat the wall surface with a fungicidal antifungal impregnation, and to reduce the possibility of fire - with a fire retardant. For the lathing, a bar of 30x30 mm is suitable.

MDF panels - modern and environmentally friendly material

In addition to the MDF panels themselves, for work you will need the following list of tools and materials:

level, plumb line, ruler and pencil;
stepladder, wooden lathing bars;
drill, puncher, screwdriver;
dowels or screws, you can use clamps, nails with a reduced head;
fire retardant and fungicidal impregnation;
liquid nails for fixing corner trim elements;
brush, putty knife, sticks, large-toothed hacksaw or saw.

Preparatory work:

The frame is ready, now you can mount MDF panels:

For thin slabs, you can make a secure attachment to the battens with glue. Liquid nails are perfect for this purpose.

For metal profiles

This method uses a special aluminum or galvanized metal profile. Such a frame is more expensive, but is devoid of wood drawbacks and will last much longer. This method is optimal for finishing rooms with high humidity.

The following materials and tools should be prepared:

guiding and supporting profile strips, suspensions, small self-tapping screws "seeds" for connecting the profiles to each other;
screwdriver and self-tapping screws, hammer drill and dowels;
ruler and level, marker;
stairs, skirting boards and corners;
chisel perforator nozzle;
kleimers, one box of 100 is enough;
plaster and putty.

Preparation of the base:

This method does not require leveling or carefully preparing the wall, it is enough to remove the old tile or wallpaper and walk with a fire-retardant composition so that mold and fungus do not grow under the conditions of increased dampness under the finish.
Mark the wall, place the planks in 45-50 cm increments. Mark the lines on the floor, walls and ceiling. Before installation, you can stick foil-coated foam foam for thermal insulation.
Correctly installed crate will allow it to lick for a long time, and MDF panels will not warp over time
Attach straight hangers, which are subsequently bent to strengthen the frame structure and expose the finishing plane at the required distance from the main wall.
Fix the hangings on the wall
Fix the guide strips to the ceiling, floor and side walls with dowels. Insert the supporting main strips into the suspensions and guides, fasten the structure with small self-tapping screws, called "seeds" by the craftsmen. It is convenient to use a screwdriver with a magnetic attachment for this work. Fastening is carried out in increments of 15-25 cm.
Fix the guides to the floor, ceiling, walls
Check the level of the correct position of the strips, lay the necessary communications. Put the wiring into the corrugated pipe and fill the gaps with insulation, bend the protruding edges of the suspensions outward.
Fill the gaps between the profiles with insulation

Stages of installation of MDF panels:

Without frame

If the base is flat and free from defects, then fastening can be carried out without installing the frame.

This method has its advantages:

work time is significantly reduced;
precious centimeters of the room do not decrease, the wall sticks out by only 10 mm.

For fastening you will need:

adhesive liquid nails, assembly gun;
hacksaw with a fine tooth, brush;
stepladder for work at height;
universal corners made of fiberboard, plinth, insulation;
fire-retardant impregnation, soil.

Stages of preparatory work:

After the walls are completely dry, we proceed to the installation of MDF boards:

Video: installation of MDF panels on the wall

Competent installation of MDF panels is not complicated at all, they do not require special care, and the walls look like they are finished with natural exotic wood or leather, granite. Practical and inexpensive cladding will give the interior a gloss and a neat fresh look.