Sealing cracks in a wooden floor - how and how to carry out repairs? How to close cracks in the floor: folk, original and radical ways How to fill cracks in wooden floors.
The appearance of cracks is one of the most pressing problems of plank floors. Floor creaking, heat leaks, dust and insect intrusion are all unpleasant consequences of such defects, and if measures are not taken in a timely manner, the floor will have to be completely changed. Meanwhile, there are several effective ways to close the gaps in the floor between the boards and significantly extend the life of the coating. All of them are quite simple, they do not require special skills, and therefore everyone can do it. So, why do gaps form in the floor and how can they be eliminated?
To choose the best way to seal gaps, you first need to accurately determine and eliminate the cause of their appearance. If this is not done, the result of the repair work will be short-lived and after a while everything will have to be repeated again.
The following factors contribute to the occurrence of cracks:
- natural shrinkage- any wood is subject to shrinkage, only with different intensity. Boards that have been processed in vacuum chambers almost do not change their geometry during their service life, but ordinary lumber can dry out by 5-10%, or even more, depending on the initial moisture content and wood species;
- low indoor humidity- if the air in the house is too dry, the boards will intensively give off moisture and decrease in size. For wooden floors, the optimum air humidity should be kept within 40-65% at a temperature of 18 to 25°C;
- incorrect installation- violation of laying technology leads to loosening of the boards, their subsidence and deformation, resulting in gaps between the floorboards. The most common mistakes are non-compliance with the plane when installing the log and weak fixation of the flooring;
- rodents living under the floor- Mice and rats are able to gnaw through the thickest boards to get into the room. The more active the pests, the more cracks and holes they will make, and it is most difficult to eliminate such damage;
- laying raw lumber- drying of the boards during the operation of the floor almost always leads to significant deformations of the flooring and the appearance of gaps between the floorboards. That is why, when choosing, it is necessary to give preference to well-dried, even boards with a relative humidity of 8-12%.
Depending on the number and size of the cracks, as well as the general condition of the wooden elements, repairs can be of varying degrees of complexity - from repairing individual damage to complete replacement of the flooring.
Troubleshooting Methods
The choice of termination method should be approached thoroughly, taking into account the cause of the damage, the location of the cracks, as well as the labor costs and time it will take to repair. Equally important is the financial aspect, because the larger the work, the more funds you will need.
| termination method | Description |
|---|---|
| It is used to eliminate small cracks and cracks in the floor. Adhesive tape is needed not simple, but reinforced, 50 mm wide. The floor is cleaned of dirt, degreased and dried, after which the gaps are sealed with adhesive tape, the edges of which are fixed to the floor with a stapler. The method is very simple and budget, takes a minimum of time. Minus: the floor with tape stripes does not look aesthetically pleasing, so carpet, carpet or other rolled covering must be laid on top |
| It is used to eliminate gaps between the floor and walls resulting from the drying of wood. It is carried out after dismantling the skirting boards and cleaning the gaps from debris and dust. If the slots are too wide, pieces of foam are placed in them before foam is blown. After the foam has dried, its excess is cut off at the level of the floorboards, the cuts are puttied so that dust does not accumulate in the pores of the material, and the skirting boards are installed back. The method is convenient, does not require much physical effort, and takes a little time. Cons: high foam costs, fragility |
| This option is suitable for small gaps between the floorboards. Only special wood putty is used. The composition is applied with a spatula, carefully filling all the recesses and gaps, after drying, the surface is polished. The method is fast, does not require special skill, and is quite affordable at a cost. The downside is fragility - putty tends to crack and crumble, especially with heavy loads on the floor |
| Homemade repair compounds are often used to seal wide gaps and cracks in the floor. Traditionally, a mixture of carpentry glue and sawdust is used, which is applied with a spatula to problem areas, tamped into recesses, and polished after drying. To seal cracks gnawed by mice, cement and broken glass are added to the adhesive solution. To speed up the curing process, epoxy is used instead of wood glue. This method of termination is very affordable and durable, moreover, it is easy to perform. |
| With wood sealant, both narrow and wide gaps between floorboards can be easily sealed. The nozzle in the form of a syringe allows you to effortlessly evenly distribute the composition and fill all the recesses. Due to its elasticity, the sealant will not come off the boards during temperature deformations and will reliably serve for more than one year. To mask the repaired areas, putty is applied over the sealant to match the color of the coating. The method is convenient, simple and durable, material costs are low |
| This method allows not only to eliminate cracks, but also to effectively get rid of squeaks in the floors. In hardware stores, a special synthetic cord of various thicknesses is sold, which is selected according to the width of the gap. Instead of a cord, you can use a regular hemp rope. To seal the defect, the cord is liberally lubricated with carpentry glue, laid on the floor and tightly hammered into the slot with a corner of the spatula so that 2-3 mm remains from the cord to the floor surface. This recess is filled with a mixture of sawdust and glue, leveled, and polished after drying. Similarly, you can use sanitary tow. The method is reliable, inexpensive, although a little laborious |
| Used to fill wide gaps in the floor. Wooden slats are hewn in the form of wedges according to the size of the gaps, thickly coated with glue and hammered into the gap with a rubber or wooden hammer. After the glue dries, the part of the wedge protruding above the floor is removed with a planer, the working surface is polished and painted. One of the most practical ways is inexpensive and durable. Cons: trimming and fitting take extra time, some effort and skills in working with carpentry tools are required in the process |
| It is used in case of significant drying of the floorboards and the appearance of wide cracks in the floor. To do this, the boards are carefully dismantled and then laid again, compacted with wooden wedges, clamps, a jack or a special lever. As a result of tightening, additional 2-3 floorboards will be needed, depending on the degree of floor shrinkage. The method is characterized by high reliability, durability and low cost. The disadvantages include the duration of the process and its complexity. |
| It is used in cases where there are many cracks and the appearance of the floor leaves much to be desired. Plywood is laid on the floor so that there are gaps of 1-2 mm between the sheets, and the joints in each row are displaced by at least a third of the sheet. The sheets are fixed with self-tapping screws, sinking the hats into the tree, then the recesses are puttied, the flooring is polished and the finish coat is laid. This method allows not only to close all the damage, but also to insulate the floor, as well as level the base under the decorative coating. Cons: high material costs, labor intensive work |
Reinforced tape prices
reinforced tape
All the described methods have been repeatedly tested in practice and are widely used by home craftsmen. And now let's take a closer look at the most popular options for sealing cracks: what tools to use, how to properly prepare the surface and workflow technology.
Prices for silicone sealant "Moment"
sealant silicone moment
Gap sealing technology
Most often, gaps are eliminated with the help of sealants or putties, which are presented in a large assortment in hardware stores. As a more budget option, many prefer embedding with wooden wedges.
Sealing cracks with sealant
The effectiveness of this method directly depends on the type of sealant. In residential areas, silicone or acrylic-based compounds are used for wooden surfaces. The former have greater elasticity, and therefore better withstand the deformation of the coating when changing humidity and temperature conditions. But they emit an unpleasant odor during application and are unsuitable for subsequent staining, so to mask the treated seams, you must first buy a composition that matches the color. Acrylic sealants can be puttyed and painted, have no smell, are applied easily and quickly. Their disadvantage is the tendency to shrink and lower elasticity.
Advice. Acrylic sealant is best suited for heated rooms with little fluctuation in humidity levels. For unheated rooms, or irregularly heated, it is worth choosing a silicone-based composition.
In terms of quality, Ceresit, Tytan, Moment and Bostik sealants are considered the best.
In addition to the sealant, you will need a narrow and wide spatula, a clean, dry rag and a protective impregnation, such as parquet oil, for work.
The floor is well cleaned of dirt, paying special attention to cracks. If necessary, the surface is degreased or washed with water, after which you should wait for the wood to dry completely.
Carefully cut off the tip of the nozzle along the width of the gap between the boards, insert the tip into the gap and squeeze out the sealant in an even continuous strip.
After filling the cracks in a certain area of the floor, they take a narrow spatula and level the composition by running the tool along the cracks. The trowel blade should be held at a slight angle to the surface so that the sealant is removed flush with the boards and does not leave any projections or indentations at the seams.
Step 4 After leveling, wipe off excess mixture with a clean, dry cloth.
A small amount of parquet oil is poured onto the floor and spread over the work surface with a wide spatula. The movements of the spatula should be arcuate, across the boards, so that the protective composition fills the smallest depressions with high quality.
Now it remains only to wait for the surface to dry. If everything is done correctly, the cracks in the floor will not bother you for a long time.
Elimination of cracks with putty
What you need for work:
- putty on wood;
- wide spatula;
- Sander.
| Step, No. | Procedure |
|---|---|
| The floor is vacuumed or wiped with a well-wrung cloth to remove dirt. |
| Stir the putty and pour a small amount onto the floor. |
| With a spatula, gently spread the mixture over the floor, starting from the corner. The spatula blade is pressed firmly against the surface and drawn along the junction of the wall and floor across the floorboards. The floor is treated with wide stripes, moving from the far corner to the doors. The putty layer should be as thin as possible so that the texture of the wood shines through. The main thing here is to fill the gaps, so the putty is carefully rubbed into the gaps and recesses, and the excess is removed with a spatula. |
| After the process is completed and the putty has dried, the floor must be processed with a grinder. If the room is small, grinding can be done manually. |
| Now it remains to vacuum the floor and cover the boards with a protective compound. If there are few cracks, it is not necessary to putty the entire surface. In this case, the composition is applied with a small rubber spatula exclusively to the cracks, carefully filling all the recesses. |
Sealing a gap with a wooden lath
In the process of work you will need:
- thin wooden rail;
- a large awl or screwdriver;
- PVA glue;
- hacksaw with fine teeth;
- a hammer;
- putty on wood;
- sandpaper.
The gap between the boards and the floor surface is cleaned of dirt and dust.
The tip of a screwdriver or an awl is inserted into the slot and is forcefully drawn several times along the entire length of the board so that the rail fits more tightly into the gap.
Step 4 They take a rail, insert it with an edge into the slot and knock it out with a hammer. For convenience, the lower edge of the rail can be hemmed in the form of a wedge - so it will go deeper between the boards and fill the gap more densely.
Advice. If there is no wooden mallet, you can knock out the rail with an ordinary hammer, turning it on its side. You can also use a wooden block as a lining - so there will be no dents from the hammer on the rail.
When the glue dries, the protruding part of the rail is cut off with a hacksaw flush with the surface, then cleaned with a planer.
The treated area is covered with putty to eliminate the smallest defects, then polished with fine-grained sandpaper.
After that, it remains to clean the dust and treat the boards with any protective compound - oil, varnish, stain or floor paint.
Video - How to close the gaps in the floor between the boards
None of the existing materials has the slightest chance to push the good old tree off the pedestal, loved by everyone for its beauty, environmental friendliness and durability, for its ability to store heat. It is used in many types of construction and repair work, especially wooden floors are attractive and pleasant. However, even such coatings eventually have a big drawback - ugly gaps between the boards. The reason for this is the drying of natural material. Not all owners are ready for drastic changes, and they don’t really want to part with a cozy floor, so the question of how to close the cracks in the floor will always remain relevant. There are several ways, and all of them are quite effective, simple, and therefore do not require special skills from the owners.
Causes of an unpleasant phenomenon
If the owners eliminate the gaps, but do not determine the culprits of their formation, then soon the defects that have appeared will “please” them again. Therefore, the first necessary step is to find the causes of cracks. Several factors can be suspected of "complicity".
- Drying out due to natural causes. Any type of wood loses weight over time, but the intensity of this process depends only on the species. The exception is boards that are processed in vacuum chambers; they almost never change geometry. Ordinary building material, on the contrary, is capable of losing from 5 to 10%, or even more: the figures depend on the type and initial moisture content.
- Too dry air in the house. In this case, the tree will very quickly give up moisture, which means it will decrease in size. Normal conditions "for life" of such coatings - temperature from +18 to +25 °, humidity from 40 to 65 °.
- Laying dry material. The optimum relative humidity for raw materials that are being prepared to become floor coverings is in the range of 8-10%. If the wood is damp, then it will have to dry during operation, and such conditions lead to the appearance of cracks.
- Technology disruption. Incorrect installation - poor fastening of the flooring, non-observance of the horizontal lag - the most common causes of loosening, "walking" of the boards, their subsidence, and, of course, deformation.
- "Living creature" living underground. Rodents - rats and mice - are required to constantly grind their incisors, so they have to "train" on everything that comes in their way. The second reason is hunger, which pulls them to exploits. These cracks and holes are the most severe "injuries".
- Wrong choice of material. Optimum boards made of oak and softwood. A floor made of beech, cherry, pear, maple or ash will definitely require repair, as these types are most susceptible to deformation.
- Extremely high operating load.
The scope of work depends only on the size and number of gaps, so repairs can be both simple and incredibly complex. The most serious damage already requires a drastic measure - a complete replacement of the floor.
"Treatment" of cracks with folk remedies
Since the problem has been known to people for a long time, there are quite a lot of ways to get rid of defects. Before work, it is necessary to thoroughly study each type of deliverance, and then choose how to close up the cracks in the floor so as to forget about the flaw for a long time.
Paper, paste, blue vitriol
This method has a big plus - it is cheaper than other "treatment" options, but effective. To camouflage annoying cracks in the floor, carry out the following operation:
- Paper (for example, newspaper) is torn into small pieces, then they are filled with water.
- While it is soaking, a paste is prepared: starch (or flour) is mixed with warm water, copper sulfate (1:10, where the first is copper sulfate) is poured into the resulting “jelly”.
- Squeezed soaked paper is introduced into this composition, the putty is thoroughly stirred until its consistency becomes homogeneous.
- After cleaning the gaps from dirt and dust, the gaps are smeared with a mixture, then it is rammed, leveled.
- After drying, the surface is lightly sanded with sandpaper, then painted.
Any composition will hold securely only in one case - if high-quality cleaning of the cracks is carried out. When the dirt cannot be removed, the gaps are expanded. Otherwise, the work will be inefficient: the gaps in the floor will appear again.
Sawdust and their "companions"
In this case, there are two ways to prepare a saving mixture: glue (PVA for wood or carpentry) with sawdust alone and a product in which cement is also added for greater strength. A clean composition for small cracks is done like this:
- Small sawdust is poured with boiling water, mixed well, closed and left to swell for an hour or two.
- Then an adhesive composition is added to them in such an amount that a viscous mass is obtained.
- This putty is applied with a spatula, the excess is removed, leveled, and allowed to dry for 2-3 days.
- The dried surface is polished.
Slots in the floor, having a width of 3-7 mm, require other sawdust - large. It is even better to take a mixture of different fractions.
sawdust with cement
The preparation of a super remedy with cement requires exact proportions, so measure out:
- water (also hot) - 15 parts;
- glue - 2 parts;
- sawdust and cement - 5 parts each.
The technology here is also different:
- Water is poured into the glue and mixed, then the remaining components are added: first sawdust, then cement.
- To make the composition have a color similar to the floor covering, oil paint or dry dye is added to it. Let it sit for about 10 minutes.
- Before filling the cracks of the floor, the mass is slightly heated. This solution dries for 2 weeks. It is also treated with abrasives.
This composition is used not only for sealing cracks, the method is used to level the entire surface of a wooden floor.
sawdust, varnish and/or paint
Here, the “colleagues” of small chips are other ingredients that are more familiar and familiar to the floor. This composition will be able to "cure" cracks of any depth and width.
- Sawdust, thick oil paint and varnish are mixed in a ratio of 4:1:1.
- If the gaps are small, then the entire composition is poured immediately.
- When the flaw is quite large, the mixture is applied in layers after a short period of time.
Reiki Wedges to the rescue
This method is very common, because it is difficult to argue with the logic of this decision. Thin slats, lubricated with adhesive, are very easy to drive into any cracks, and the gaps hidden in this way will cease to be a headache for a long time (forever?). Do the work like this:
- Wedges are prepared from pine boards. The width of the elements must be 0.5 mm less than the gap.
- The slots are cleaned, then slightly expanded. The gap and the rail are liberally lubricated with glue. The wedge is driven in with a rubber mallet or hammer, but then a small board is placed on it.
- Waiting for the adhesive to dry. The part protruding above the surface is removed with a planer. Tiny defects are camouflaged with a mixture of sawdust and glue.
- The wedge is treated with a stain and painted (varnished).
The same gaps in the floor - a rarity, and making wedges for each gap - a little pleasure. Therefore, all holes are adjusted to the same size with a cutter. The advantage of this work is the removal of old wood: the fibers on the fresh cut and wedges guarantee a more reliable connection.
Cement and broken glass
This method is suitable for those who have rodents in the floor, who are happy to try even concrete on the tooth. Therefore, a simple solution is not a panacea, it can quickly turn into a washcloth. And in this case, it is best to first close the seam with broken glass (for example, fragments of rather thin beer bottles), then fill this “anti-personnel ditch” with concrete, and putty on top.
Worthy alternatives to broken glass are dishwashing wire products cut into pieces, store-bought mortar, which includes aluminum chips and concrete mortar. They say that Macroflex mounting foam belongs to this category, unloved by rodents, but such material for the gaps between the boards is not optimal.
Rope, tow, cord
To implement this method, any twine or rope is suitable, the thickness of the cord depends only on the width of the slots in the floor: it must be larger than the holes. You will also need glue (PVA, carpentry), sawdust and putty. The work goes in the following sequence:
- The cord is abundantly smeared with glue, it is better to immerse it in the composition and leave it in it for a while. Separately, a mixture of glue, sawdust and putty is prepared.
- The cord with the help of a core and a hammer is deepened into the gap between the boards by 2-4 mm. The remaining space is filled with a home-made mixture, but the gap is filled with a margin, since the mixture will shrink when dried.
- After it hardens, the seams are covered with paint to match the floor.
To get rid of small gaps, plumbing tow is used in almost the same way, which is also lubricated (moistened) with glue. It is laid in the holes, rammed, and after drying, the floor is painted.
The newest alternative is sealing cord made from polyethylene foam. He does not need glue, 4-5 mm of free space is left on top. It is covered with putty, the best view is an oil-based composition for wood.
Epoxy mix
This method is considered one of the best options for dealing with cracked boards. Epoxy-cement "mortar" is praised because of the reliability, strength of such a composition.
- Epoxy glue is mixed with cement in equal proportions. The consistency of this composition should be similar to thick sour cream.
- Pour it in with a small margin, because in the process of drying it will shrink.
- The last stage is traditional: it is polishing the floor and painting it.
Not everyone welcomes this type of adhesive composition, which guarantees a strong grip. The reason is the frequent emergency during operation - its chipping along with large fragments of boards.
Chipboard, plywood
This is the most original answer to the question of how to close the cracks in the floor. The use of this method is advisable when there are countless cracks in the wooden floor. In this case, "putty work" will take a lot of time. Therefore, the most effective way is to lay sheets of chipboard or plywood. However, after this radical operation, a new top coat will be required.
Sheets are attached to liquid nails, self-tapping screws or ordinary nails. When choosing the last two types of fasteners, holes of a slightly smaller diameter are first drilled in the material than for self-tapping screws (nails). The reason for this is the possible deformation of the material.
Means - professionals
The construction market now does not know the word "deficit", so the choice of different compositions is simply huge. Many of them are designed specifically to mask all sorts of imperfections. Therefore, the question of how to close the cracks in the floor can be asked to sellers, but it is better to get acquainted with possible applicants in advance.
Sealants
Their main “calling” is to make the seams of materials inaccessible to moisture. For work with wooden floors, 2 types of sealants are suitable:
- acrylic compositions. Their plus is the ease of rinsing off the hands, a perfectly flat surface, which is obtained after grinding and painting. Cons - the inability to withstand temperature extremes and relatively large shrinkage. However, these disadvantages for the floor in the room are not too terrible.
- Silicone sealants are a real lifesaver for walking floors. They have many advantages. This is plasticity remaining after drying, enviable resistance to stress and compression, good adhesive qualities. But there is a minus: such mixtures are not suitable for coloring. Compositions of different colors are sold in stores, but it is not a fact that the owners will be able to successfully choose a shade.
The order of work is as follows:
- Slots in the floor are vacuumed, washed and dried.
- The sealant is squeezed into the gap, then leveled with a spatula, gloved fingers (finger pads) or a spatula.
- Wipe off any excess with a dry cloth.
The operation is simple and uncomplicated, it does not require excessive efforts either. However, the main condition for success is a thorough preliminary cleaning of the cracks.
Mounting foam
Building foam is recommended to be used only for sealing cracks around the perimeter of the room, and not between the boards. The reasons for disapproval are deformation of the coating under pressure, uneven filling, change in the shade of the foam under the influence of ultraviolet radiation. The whole operation for the areas under the baseboards is as follows:
- The floor is cleaned of debris and dust. If the gaps are impressive, then thin strips of foam are inserted into them.
- The empty space is filled with foam, then they are waiting for it to dry.
- The excess is cut off from the seam, and the surface is puttied.
Putty - palliative
This option cannot be considered a reliable replacement for the previous methods, since this composition will eventually begin to crack, crumble, fall out. The limited range of colors is another drawback. Situations in which the use of these mixtures is justified are the expectation of an early repair if the floor is planned to be covered. Work is carried out in the following order:
- Putty is applied to the cleaned surfaces with a rubber spatula, pressed into the cracks.
- After the composition dries, the seams are leveled with sandpaper.
To seal cracks, some recommend taking parquet putty, as it has greater elasticity and does not crack so readily. If soon they plan to lay tiles or laminate, then they do it much easier: the slots are glued with adhesive tape.
Putty with glue
This method gives a chance to close up small gaps on the floor. It is also suitable if ugly cracks appear on the surface. For this operation, a certain type of putty is required - a dry finish mixture designed for drywall. The same PVA acts as glue.
The composition is mixed in small portions so that its consistency resembles the density of sour cream. After applying it to the cracks, the putty-glue is immediately ground, then quickly leveled, because otherwise it will quickly harden, and in this state it will not be possible to perform the operation qualitatively.
How to deal with "playful" boards?
Such a nuisance happens for two reasons: the incorrect lag step is to blame, or the wrong boards are selected - the material is too thin. There are also two ways out - installing additional logs or installing thicker boards. Both of them are not very attractive, as they involve the dismantling of the flooring. Yes, these options are optimal, but there is a simple way - rallying adjacent elements with dowels. It makes it possible to stop the "game" of the tree, to eliminate the deflection.
This operation is not so elementary, because there are many nuances in it.
- Correct drilling of holes at an angle is the first hitch. It is necessary to make sure that there is a sufficient layer of wood between the fasteners and the bottom / top plane of the boards. The angle of inclination is chosen, focusing on the thickness of the material.
- Mounting hole diameter. It should be at least 0.5 mm larger than the dowels. The remaining gap will be occupied by glue (clerical PVA), which cannot be squeezed out. It will contribute to the swelling of the fibers, so the connection will become reliable and super strong.
- Drill and template. The length of the tool must be maximum, but it is very difficult to find a suitable option. A way out is possible: this is welding a rod of the same diameter. The template will greatly speed up the work, especially at the "beginning of glorious deeds."
- Spray gun for glue. It is made from a tube of diameter suitable for the spout of the bottle. The length of the segment is 20 cm. The tube is sealed at one end, and small holes are made in it, which will not allow the glue to stain everything around.
Dowels moistened with glue are installed in holes, also treated with the composition. The compounds are left alone until dry. The raised part of the chopiks is removed with a grinder, and the cut is polished with what is at hand - the same angle grinder, a manual grinder, or a drill with an appropriate nozzle, but at low speeds.
The question of how to close the cracks in the floor can now be considered closed. Since the choice of a suitable material to a greater extent depends on the depth and width of the flaws, the owners will have to decide: any means will do, and it doesn’t matter at all whether they are folk or purchased. However, the best way out is to rally the floor. In this case, the cracks will no longer appear, which means that you can not be afraid that at one “beautiful” moment all the carefully stuffed “good” will fall out again.
One of the options for transforming the slatted floor can be seen in this video:
One of the common problems with plank floors is the appearance of gaps between the boards. Debris clogs in the cracks, water flows in, this can provoke rotting of the boards. If the base is not insulated, it pulls cold from below. Insects can enter the room through the cracks, and if they are large enough, then rodents. So they need to be repaired, there are many old, old-fashioned methods, in recent years new, simpler and more reliable ones have appeared.
Before fixing gaps, you need to understand why they appeared. Main reasons:
- Reducing the width of the boards due to wood shrinkage. The higher the humidity of the boards at the time of laying, the more pronounced the shrinkage will be.
- wrong styling, poor fixation of boards, as a result of which they "walk"
- Rodent damage
- Rotting floorboards due to lack of ventilation
Shrinkage can occur due to excessive dryness of the air in the room, with an increase in the level of humidity, the boards will expand and close again. Therefore, such seasonal cracks should not be sealed, so as not to provoke deformation of the boards in the future. It is better to take care of maintaining stable humidity.
If the boards began to rot, sealing the cracks is not enough, you need to re-lay the coating, taking care of the hydro-barrier and the ventilation gap under the floorboards. Rotten boards will have to be replaced so that they do not infect the rest. If mice have gnawed through the cracks, first you need to get rid of them. If the boards move back and forth due to insufficiently high-quality fastening to the base, they need to be fixed, and only then the gaps should be sealed.
The most radical method of eliminating gaps is to lay the boards closer together. It is usually resorted to if the board at the time of laying was not dry enough. In this case, temporary laying is carried out, only every 4 or 5 boards are attached to the base, after the final drying, the fasteners are dismantled and the boards are laid according to all the rules.
Ready-made and home-made putties, sealants
Small gaps are usually filled with a plastic compound, which hardens after drying. The easiest way is to use a ready-made paste-like putty on wood, but you can prepare a composition for filling cracks with your own hands. Before sealing the cracks, they must be thoroughly cleaned of debris and degreased, the composition is applied and leveled with a spatula. After the final drying of the mixture, the surface is polished. If the composition, when dried, shrinks strongly, a second procedure may be necessary.
Composition options:
- Glue with sawdust. Pre-steam small sifted sawdust with boiling water and leave to swell for up to 2 hours, then mix with glue (PVA, wallpaper or carpentry) until a viscous mass is obtained. Drying time - 2-3 days.
- Glue, sawdust and cement. Carpentry glue or PVA is diluted with hot water in a ratio of 2:15, mixed in 5 parts of cement and sawdust, all components are combined and held for about 10 minutes. Before work, the mixture is heated, and the cracks are primed with glue. Grinding can be started no earlier than after 2 weeks
- Paste with paper. Shred the newspaper and add water. While it is soaking, prepare a paste of starch and water, cool slightly and add 1/10 of copper sulphate to prevent fungal infections. Mix the wrung out and finger-rubbed paper with the paste
- Parquet primer BONA ParketGrunt with added wood dust can be used as filler for gaps up to 5 mm
- Epoxy cement mix 1:1 is liquid, but sets quickly. It is simply poured into the cracks
- A mixture of wax and linseed oil also poured into the gaps in a heated state. This composition is suitable for small and perfectly cleaned cracks.
A mixture of cement with broken glass or a store-bought compound with aluminum shavings is used if rodents cannot be gotten rid of. Such putty will not allow them to gnaw new holes in the same places. You need to work carefully, wearing gloves, so as not to injure your hands, and cover the composition with ordinary putty on top.
Hardening inelastic putties have a significant drawback - if the boards continue to “play”, the cracks will expand and narrow, and the putty will crack and crumble. Cracks with unstable dimensions are best filled with an elastic sealant that will shrink and stretch when the wood moves.
Acrylic or silicone sealants are more expensive than putty, but provide a more reliable and durable result. Acrylic sealants can be painted on top, silicone sealants must be chosen in the color of the floor. You can also fill the gaps with mounting foam, which provides additional thermal insulation. Under the application of foam or sealant, the surface is prepared as for putty.
Foam and sealants are squeezed out using a special syringe gun; when working with foam, it must be set to a weak feed. Excess foam is cut off with a knife after it has completely dried. Painting is required on top - under the action of sunlight, the foam is destroyed.
Rope, cord, slats
Deep slots to save the putty composition are filled with a rope, cord or tow. A cord, twine, a rope of such a diameter is taken to close the gap, passed through glue (PVA or carpentry), so that it covers it from all sides and impregnates it. The rope (cord) is laid in the slot and rammed so that 2-4 mm remain to the surface. This gap is filled with putty from the same glue and sawdust.
The tow is also moistened with glue and the cracks are filled to the top. For large gaps, you can use a thicker rope, and pour a mixture of epoxy and cement on top. Also large gaps are sealed with wooden wedges cut from pine slats, glazing bead. This repair requires:
- Align the edges of the boards with a cutter, if necessary, remove old paint from the area around the gap
- Cut out a wedge insert that tapers slightly downwards so that it is 0.5 mm narrower than the slot width
- Coat the edges of the gap and wedge with glue
- Insert the wedge into the gap and hammer with light blows of the mallet through the gasket from the board
- If there are gaps left, fill them with glue putty with sawdust
- After the final drying of the glue, cut off the protruding excess with a planer and sand the surface
If the plank floor will serve as the basis for the finishing coating, the cracks can simply be sealed with reinforced tape. Depending on the finish, a shock-absorbing underlay is laid on top or plywood sheets are laid.
Sealing cracks is one of the types of repair work, about other types of floor repair from boards.
Cracks between floors and walls
The floor board is laid with a slight indent from the walls, so that a gap is formed around the perimeter to compensate for the thermal expansion of the wood. Initially, it is recommended to make it 0.5-1 cm wide, since it may increase due to shrinkage of the boards. A gap of up to 2 cm is covered with a plinth and does not create problems, in extreme cases, you will have to replace the plinth with a wider one.
If the gap is too large, it will have to be sealed. For these purposes, it is better to use an elastic material, since the linear dimensions of the boards can change due to changes in temperature and humidity. Eliminating the gap of excessive width begins with the dismantling of the skirting boards. As a placeholder you can use:
- Jute, tow, felt for caulking
- Silicone or acrylic sealant
- Mounting foam
Too wide (more than 5 cm) gaps are best filled with foam strips and foamed, so you can reduce foam consumption. Its excess is cut off after drying, putty is applied on top. Going through the coating is not the best option, as a result, another board, whole or sawn, may lie in the longitudinal direction, and the lack of length will have to be compensated for by short cuts of boards, this is troublesome and ugly.
Video
Sealing cracks and cracks in the floors of boards, removing squeaks, varnishing
Making homemade putty for filling cracks
Outcome
Methods for sealing gaps between boards depend on their size and the cause of their appearance. Small gaps can be sealed with ready-made or home-made composition, elastic sealants for wood are preferable to solid putties. Deep slots are pre-filled with glue-impregnated cord, rope, and deep and wide slots are clogged with wooden dowels. Sometimes it is necessary to close up not only the gaps between the boards, but also the gap between the floor and the wall, if its dimensions exceed the allowable.
Traditional natural wood floors are beautiful in every way - they are environmentally friendly, easy to install, beautiful and practical. However, of all materials, wooden boards are most susceptible to various deformations.
So, during operation, gaps between the boards appear in almost any wooden floor. These gaps contribute to decay, a large amount of heat flows through them, dust and dirt accumulate in them. If cracks appear, they must be sealed. What is the best way to do this?
Reasons for the formation of cracks
Gaps between floorboards can form due to a variety of factors:
- Temperature deformations. Due to regular fluctuations in temperature, the tree dries out, the joints of the coating elements become wider. To avoid this, the material dried at the factory by a special method, in which all water is removed from the cells of the tree with the help of vacuum, helps to avoid this. Ordinary boards dry for several years and during this time noticeably change in size.
- Rodents that spoil wood. Just fixing the flaws in this case is not enough, you also need to get rid of the mice, or at least not let them gnaw through the floor by getting a cat.
- Boarding errors. In this case, you need to securely fix the coating, and then cover up the cracks.
- Poor ventilation, as a result of which the tree quickly rots. Having closed the joints in this case, it will be necessary to equip the ventilation grill in the wooden floor.
Modern repair methods
putty
Covering cracks in a wooden floor with putty is the easiest way, but this option is not durable. If the boards continue to move during operation, the putty will quickly crack and you will have to do it all over again. In addition, putty is very noticeable against the background of wood texture.
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sealant
If the cracks are dynamic, the filling material must also be mobile and have good elasticity. To ensure this characteristic, sealants based on acrylic or silicone are used. The smearing process looks like this:
- the floor surface is cleaned and dried;
- the joints of the boards are filled with a mounting gun;
- sealant is smeared with a spatula.
Silicone sealant can be chosen in a color suitable for the floor. Acrylic sealers are also a great option. They are resistant to fluctuations in temperature and high humidity, are easy to sand, they can be painted and varnished. The tensile strength is very high - the gap can stretch twice without losing the integrity of the sealant.
Mounting foam
Closing the joints of the boards in the floor with this substance is very simple. All you need is a special gun and a plastic soft tube that is compressed and pushed into the slot. The foam should be distributed evenly and with little pressure. You need to act quickly, as the foam hardens almost instantly.
A narrow gap can be covered not from the inside, but by applying foam from above. It is not necessary to smear the foam with a spatula, as the material will stick tightly to the metal. It is better to use a damp wooden block, lubricated with soapy water. Excess foam is removed with a clerical knife after drying.
The disadvantages of foam are its ability to break down under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, porosity and dust attraction. But the layer of polyurethane foam works well as a heater.
Scotch
If an additional finishing layer of the coating will lie on the wooden floor, and the attractiveness of the seams is not important, you can simply seal the joints with construction wide adhesive tape. Its edges are fastened to the board with a stapler. Scotch tape will perfectly protect the room from drafts and cold entering through the joints of the boards.
Traditional Methods
These methods of sealing gaps have been tested by time and often turn out to be optimal.
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Wooden slats
It is very easy to close the gap with a rail. The technology of the method is as follows:
- Edges of boards are processed by a manual mill.
- The strips are cut to the correct size. It is best to take pine boards, as they are easier to process.
- The edges of the floorboards and the side edges of the lath are lubricated with an adhesive solution.
- The rail is inserted into the slot and securely fixed. The remaining unfilled gaps can be sealed with a mixture of glue and sawdust.
- The resulting surface is ground with a belt grinder or by hand. In this case, you need to protect yourself with glasses and a respirator, as a lot of dust will form.
- Masking tape is glued to the joint.
- The repaired floor is painted and varnished.
- Putty from improvised materials
An old recipe for putty, according to which you can make putty with your own hands, is a sticky composition of wood resin and sawdust.
You can also mix sawdust with PVA glue. The resulting mixture adheres perfectly to the tree, and after drying it becomes very hard and durable. The only downside is the roughness of such a putty; to give a decent appearance, you will have to carefully process it with sandpaper. In addition, this material darkens during operation.
A similar recipe is a mixture of varnish and wood dust.
Sewing the floor with plywood, chipboard, drywall
Other similar materials may also be used. It is recommended to close the joints of the boards in this way in the case of very wide cracks that can no longer be covered with anything. Any decorative coating can be placed on top of a layer of plywood sheets or other material.
A frame of miniature logs is formed on the old wooden floor. To do this, you need to use a beam of durable wood. Bars are installed in increments of 60 cm, depending on the thickness of the coating sheets. Under these elements, you need to put pieces of linoleum or roofing material in order to absorb the load on the floor.
