Manufacturing of a mansard sloping roof. We build a mansard roof with our own hands

A house with an attic is not only an additional living space, but also a respectable view of the entire building. Even if the room under the roof is made unheated and is used only in the summer, it still creates a powerful "air cushion" that helps to retain heat inside the entire capital structure.

And about, then - read on our portal.

Attic project

When drawing up a scheme for building an attic, it is best to do this in different projections in order to see and understand the placement of all elements of the rafter system. It is very important to correctly calculate the height of the roof ridge, since the size of the area under it will directly depend on it.

When drawing up a scheme-project for the construction of a mansard roof, you need to calculate the height of the ridge, ceiling and the total area of the room.

The minimum height from the floor to the ridge should be 2.5-2.7 m, but if this distance is less, then the room is not an attic, it can only be called an attic. This parameter is established by the norms of SNIP.

In order for all the elements to be drawn accurately and to have the desired location in the general system, you need to start from a figure with right angles, that is, a rectangle or square - a section of the attic room being created. Relying on the sides (the height and width of the future room), it will be almost impossible to make a mistake with angles at which the roof slopes are located, with the location of the ridge, rafters and all supporting elements. Determining these parameters, they must immediately be entered into the drawing.

First you need to find the middle of the front wall width. Starting from this point, the parameters of the ridge height, the future attic ceiling, the location of the wall posts and the size of the eaves overhang are determined.

Due to the fact that each of the structures has a certain number of connecting nodes that have different configurations, it would be nice to draw each of these ligaments separately in order to understand their peculiarities of conjugation of all elements connecting at this point.

Any rafter system consists of basic elements and additional ones, which may not be in every structure. The main components of the attic roof include.

Floor beams, which are the basis for the rest of the rafter system. They fit on the main walls of the building.
Rafter leg, straight in a gable roof system or in two sections - in a broken pattern. In this case, the upper rafter is called ridge, as it forms the highest point of the roof - and the rafters that form the walls of the attic are called lateral.
A ridge board or timber is an indispensable element for a gable roof, but it is not always used when constructing a broken roof model.
Mauerlat is a powerful bar that is fixed to the main side walls of the building. Rafter legs are installed on this element.
Racks are supporting elements necessary to strengthen a gable and broken structure. In the latter case, a ridge and side rafter is attached to it, and in the first, the rack is a reliable support for a long rafter. In addition, the racks serve as a frame for insulation and sheathing of the attic walls.
Diagonal tie-downs or bevels additionally hold the struts or longitudinal beams and rafters together, making the structure more robust.
The attic floor beams are used in all attic options - they are used to connect the racks, and they are also the frame for the ceiling device.
Girders are installed in a broken roof shape for structural rigidity.

To be sure that the prepared project is developed correctly, you need to show it to a specialist. Only he will be able to determine whether the parameters of the attic are correctly selected for the width and length of the walls of the building.

Video: professional calculation of the attic roof using special software

Parameters of materials for the construction of a mansard roof

If the graphic project is ready, then, starting from the dimensions indicated on it, you can calculate the amount of materials required for the construction of the attic roof. It is necessary to choose materials according to their characteristics, which must meet the requirements of fire and environmental safety. For wood, it is necessary to provide for a special treatment with fire retardants, which will reduce the flammability of the material. So, for construction you will need:

Rafter foot boards. Their cross section is selected according to the results of special calculations - this will be discussed in more detail below.
A beam with a cross section of 100 × 150 or 150 × 200 mm - for floor beams, depending on the selected rafter system and the width between the load-bearing walls, as well as for purlins, diagonal legs or valleys - if they are provided for by the structure.
A beam with a section of 100 × 150 mm or 150 × 150 mm for laying the Mauerlat.
For racks, a beam of 100 × 100 or 150 × 150 mm is usually used.
Unedged board for sub-flooring and some fasteners.
Annealed steel wire with a diameter of 3-4 mm - for fastening together some parts.
Nails, bolts, staples of various sizes, corners of various configurations and other fasteners.
A metal sheet with a thickness of at least 1 mm - for cutting out overlays.
Lumber for lathing and counter battens for roofing material - depending on the type of roof selected.
- for thermal insulation of the roof.
Waterproofing and vapor barrier membranes.
Roofing material and fasteners for it.

What section are the rafters required

Rafters are roof elements that will perceive the main external loads, therefore, the requirements for their section are very special.

The size of the required lumber will depend on many parameters - on the step between the rafter legs, on the length of these legs between the support points, on the snow and wind load falling on them.

The geometric parameters of the structure of the rafter system are easy to determine in the drawing. But with the rest of the parameters, you will have to refer to the reference material and carry out some calculations.

The snow load is not the same for different regions of our country. The figure below shows a map on which the entire territory of Russia is divided into zones according to the intensity of snow load.

There are eight such zones in total (the last, eighth, is more likely to be extreme, and it may not be considered for the construction of a mansard roof).

Now you can accurately determine the snow load, which will depend on the angle of the roof slope. For this, there is the following formula:

S = Sg × μ

Sg- tabular value - see the map and the attached table

μ — a correction factor depending on the slope of the roof slope.

If the angle of the slope is me 25 °, then μ = 1.0
With a steepness from 25 to 60 ° - μ = 0.7
If the roof is steeper than 60 °, then it is considered that the snow does not linger on it, and the snow load is not taken into account at all.

It is characteristic that if the attic roof has a broken structure, then for its different sections the load may have different values.

The slope angle of the roof can always be determined either with a protractor - according to the drawing, or by a simple ratio of the height and base of the triangle (as a rule, half the width of the span):

The wind load also mainly depends on the region where the building is built and on the characteristics of its surroundings and the height of the roof.

And again, for the calculation, the initial data on the map and the table attached to it are first determined:

The calculation for a specific building will be carried out according to the formula:

Wp = W × k × c

W- tabular value, depending on the region

k- coefficient taking into account the height of the building and its location (see table)

The following zones are indicated by letters in the table:

zone A - open area, steppes, forest-steppe, deserts, tundra or forest-tundra, open to the winds of the seashore, large lakes and reservoirs.
zone B - urban areas, wooded areas, areas with frequent obstacles to the wind, relief or artificial, at least 10 meters high.
zone V- dense urban development with an average building height of more than 25 meters.

with- coefficient depending on the prevailing wind direction (wind rose of the region) and on the angle of inclination of the roof slopes.

With this coefficient, the situation is somewhat more complicated, since the wind can have a twofold effect on the roof slopes. Thus, it has a direct, overturning effect directly on the roof slopes. But at small angles, the aerodynamic effect of the wind takes on particular importance - it tries to raise the plane of the slope due to the arising lifting forces.

The diagrams and tables attached to them indicate the roof sections subject to maximum wind loads, and indicate the corresponding coefficients for the calculation.

It is characteristic that at slope angles up to 30 degrees (and this is quite possible on the ridge rafters), the coefficients are indicated both with a plus sign and negative, that is, directed upwards. They somewhat dampen the frontal wind load (this is taken into account in the calculations), and in order to neutralize the effect of lifting forces, it will be necessary to very carefully fix the rafter system and roofing material in this area, using additional ties, for example, using annealed steel wire.

After the wind and snow loads have been calculated, they can be summed up, and, taking into account the design features of the system being created, the section of the boards for the rafters can be determined.

Please note that the data is for the most commonly used coniferous material (pine, spruce, cedar or larch). The table shows the maximum length of the rafters between the support points, the section of the board, depending on the grade of the material, and on the step between the rafters.

The total load is indicated in kPa (Kilopascals). It is not difficult to bring this value into the more familiar kilograms per square meter. With quite acceptable rounding, you can accept: 1 kPa ≈ 100 kg / m².

The values of the dimensions of the board along its section are rounded up to the standard dimensions of sawn timber.

	rafter section (mm)	Distance between adjacent rafters (mm)
		300	600	900	300	600	900
		1.0 kPa			1.5 kPa
higher	40 × 89	3.22	2.92	2.55	2.81	2.55	2.23
	40 × 140	5.06	4.60	4.02	4.42	4.02	3.54
	50 × 184	6.65	6.05	5.28	5.81	5.28	4.61
	50 × 235	8.50	7.72	6.74	7.42	6.74	5.89
	50 × 286	10.34	9.40	8.21	9.03	8.21	7.17
1 or 2	40 × 89	3.11	2.83	2.47	2.72	2.47	2.16
	40 × 140	4.90	4.45	3.89	4.28	3.89	3.40
	50 × 184	6.44	5.85	5.11	5.62	5.11	4.41
	50 × 235	8.22	7.47	6.50	7.18	6.52	5.39
	50 × 286	10.00	9.06	7.40	8.74	7.66	6.25
3	40 × 89	3.06	2.78	2.31	2.67	2.39	1.95
	40 × 140	4.67	4.04	3.30	3.95	3.42	2.79
	50 × 184	5.68	4.92	4.02	4.80	4.16	3.40
	50 × 235	6.95	6.02	4.91	5.87	5.08	4.15
	50 × 286	8.06	6.98	6.70	6.81	5.90	4.82
total snow and wind load		2.0 kPa			2.5 kPa
higher	40 × 89	4.02	3.65	3.19	3.73	3.39	2.96
	40 × 140	5.28	4.80	4.19	4.90	4.45	3.89
	50 × 184	6.74	6.13	5.35	6.26	5.69	4.97
	50 × 235	8.21	7.46	6.52	7.62	6.92	5.90
	50 × 286	2.47	2.24	1.96	2.29	2.08	1.82
1 or 2	40 × 89	3.89	3.53	3.08	3.61	3.28	2.86
	40 × 140	5.11	4.64	3.89	4.74	4.31	3.52
	50 × 184	6.52	5.82	4.75	6.06	5.27	4.30
	50 × 235	7.80	6.76	5.52	7.06	6.11	4.99
	50 × 286	2.43	2.11	1.72	2.21	1.91	1.56
3	40 × 89	3.48	3.01	2.46	3.15	2.73	2.23
	40 × 140	4.23	3.67	2.99	3.83	3.32	2.71
	50 × 184	5.18	4.48	3.66	4.68	4.06	3.31
	50 × 235	6.01	5.20	4.25	5.43	4.71	3.84
	50 × 286	6.52	5.82	4.75	6.06	5.27	4.30

Instruments

Naturally, during work, you cannot do without tools, the list of which includes:

Electric drill, screwdriver.
Building level and plumb line, tape measure, square.
Ax, chisel, chisel, hammer
Circular saw, jigsaw, hacksaw.
Carpenter's knife.

Installation will be accelerated if the tools for the work are of high quality, and the work will be carried out with competent mentors, with assistants, accurately and in stages.

Installation steps

It is necessary to strictly adhere to the sequence of work execution - only under this condition the structure will turn out to be reliable and durable.

Mauerlat mount

Installation of any rafter system begins with fixing a powerful support at the end of the side walls of the structure timber - Mauerlat, on which it will be convenient to install the rafter legs. Mauerlat is made of high-quality bar with a cross-section of at least 100 × 150 mm. It must be laid on the waterproofing made of roofing material, laid on the upper end of the wall (regardless of the material).

Due to the Mauerlat, the load will be evenly distributed along the walls and transmitted to the foundation of the building.

The Mauerlat is fixed to the wall using metal studs, which are embedded in a concrete belt or crown that runs along the upper edge of the wall, or with anchor bolts with a diameter of 12 mm. They must go into the depth of the wall for at least 150 — 170 mm. If the Mauerlat is installed on a wooden wall, then the beams are attached to it using wooden dowels.

Installation of the truss structure

Installation of the rafter system begins with the installation of floor beams. They can be attached to the Mauerlat from above if the beams are planned to be removed outside the perimeter of the building and thereby increase the area of the attic. In this design, the rafter legs are fixed to the floor beams.

Floor beams fixed on top of the Mauerlat (Fig. A)

Otherwise, they can fit on waterproofed walls and fastened with corners or brackets to the inner edge of the Mauerlat. This option is used when the rafter legs are planned to be fixed directly to the Mauerlat.

Another option - only rafter legs are attached to the Mauerlat

Next, you need to find the middle of the floor beam, since this mark will become a reference point for determining the location of the support posts and the ridge.
The uprights should be equidistant from the marked center of the floor joist. They will later begin to determine the location of the walls of the attic room, that is, its width.
Bars for studs must have a cross-section equal to the size of the floor beams. Construction sites are attached to the beams using special corners and wooden linings. However, to begin with, they are first baited with nails, then carefully leveled with the help of a building level and a plumb line, and only then they are permanently fixed, taking into account future loads.

When the first pair of racks is installed, they are fastened together from above with a bar, which is called a puff. This tightening is also connected to the posts using special metal corners.

After tightening the tightening, you get a U-shaped structure. Layered rafters are installed on it on the sides, which are attached with their second end to the floor beam or laid on the Mauerlat.
A special recess (groove) is cut into the installed supports for the timber or in the rafter. With its use the rafters are tightly installed on the Mauerlat timber, and are fastened with metal brackets.

For structural rigidity, struts can be additionally installed from the base of the rack to the middle of the installed side rafter. If this does not seem enough, and material savings are not in the foreground, then you can strengthen the overall structure with additional racks and fights (they are indicated in the drawing in Fig. A by translucent lines).
Further, the middle is calculated on the tightening - the headstock will be attached to this place, supporting the ridge connection of the upper hanging subsystem of the rafters.
The next step is to install ridge rafters, which can be fastened together with different joints - this can be a metal plate or powerful bolts with metal plates or washers.

After their installation, the headstock is attached to the ridge and the middle of the tightening.
Having completed work on one part of the rafter system, you need to make all the others according to the same principle. The distance between adjacent rafters in such a system should be no more than 900 — 950 mm, but an interval of 600 mm will probably still be optimal - this will give both the necessary rigidity and stability of the structure, and will be convenient for insulation using standard mineral wool mats. True, this makes the structure heavier and requires more materials.

First, the assembled side parts of the system are installed, and then the intermediate ones. They are connected to each other by girders, which are installed between the upper ends of the posts and act as spacers. Thus, you get a rigid structure of the attic rafters, in which the frame for wall cladding will already be ready.

Prices for various types of fasteners for rafters

Fasteners for rafters

Roof waterproofing

When the rafter system is built, you can proceed to finishing it and related materials.

The first coating to be fixed directly over the rafters is a waterproofing and windproof film. it is attached to the rafters with staples and a stapler, starting from the eaves. The canvases are overlapped by 150 — 200 mm, and then the joints are glued together with waterproof tape.
On top of the waterproofing, a counter-lattice is stuffed onto the rafters, which will more reliably fix the film on the surface and create the necessary ventilation distance between the windproof and roofing material. Counter-lattice is usually made of boards 100 — 150 mm and 50 thick — 70 mm.

Perpendicular to the counter-lattice, the lathing is fixed, on which the roofing material will then be laid. The step between the slats must be calculated depending on the type and size of the sheet roofing material, taking into account the overlap required for it
If a soft roof is chosen, then plywood sheets are most often fixed to the counter-lattice.

Installation of roofing

Roofing material is fixed to the prepared crate or plywood. Its installation usually starts from the eaves of the roof and goes in order, from one of the edges - depending on the type of roof. Roofing sheets are overlapped. If a metal profile or metal tile is used for the coating, then such material is fixed with special self-tapping screws with elastic gaskets. Fasteners are usually matched to the color of the roofing material.

The most difficult thing in covering an attic sloping roof is the transition from layered side rafters to hanging ridge rafters. There can be certain difficulties even if the roof projections are provided for roofing over balconies or windows.

In addition, if a chimney comes out onto the roof, it requires a separate design of the hole inside the rafter system and the insulation layer, and on the roof - a device around the pipe of reliable waterproofing.

How and what is the best way to cover the roof, you can find out in detail on the web portal, there is a whole section in which you can find answers to many questions, including recommendations for reliable insulation of the attic.

Prices for popular types of corrugated board

Corrugated board

Video: a detailed video tutorial on the construction of a mansard roof

It should be noted that the work on the construction of any roof, and even more so difficult as the attic, is not only responsible, but also quite dangerous, requires special, increased safety measures. If there is no experience in carrying out such construction processes, then it is better to entrust their implementation to professionals, or to carry out all actions under the supervision of an experienced master, and with the utmost care and accuracy.

The attic space, equipped with an attic, is one of the options for increasing the usable area of the house. The roof of such a room must be strong, and its rafter system must withstand heavy loads.

Varieties of roof structures, advantages and disadvantages

During the construction of the attic, a rafter system is used, which differs in shape and type of construction. The roof can be:

Gable. The easiest way to mount the structure is with a symmetrical gable roof.

It has a frontal view in the shape of a triangle. If the width of the house does not exceed 6 meters, then the angle of inclination in such a roof can be within 45 degrees. If the house is more than 6 meters wide, the angle should be increased to 60 degrees.

The advantage of such a mansard roof is the ease and speed of installation, the reliability of the structure and its ability to withstand significant loads.

The disadvantage is the small space inside the room, which does not allow designing a large attic

Installing the gable roof rafter system https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ykQjiMMUbA

Three-slope and four-slope. It also has another name - asymmetrical, with slopes of different slopes and lengths.

The advantage of such a roof is its beautiful design and originality.

The disadvantage is that such a roof is much more expensive and has a complex shape that requires careful calculation.

Broken gable. The slopes of such an attic structure have two parts located at different angles of inclination.

The advantage of a sloping roof is that in this option you can use the attic space under the attic with maximum efficiency. Besides, it is the most economical.

Semi-hip. One of the types of gable roof. A characteristic feature is two slopes (hips) above the frontal part of the roof.
Hip. It consists of trapezoidal slopes on both sides of the long roof and triangular slopes on both sides of the short one.

The advantage of half-hip and hip roofs is that, due to the absence of gables, they are capable of carrying significant loads. They have low windage. The rafter system of such roofs makes it possible to mount an overhang of significant dimensions, which will serve as protection against atmospheric phenomena. more durable.

The disadvantage is the complexity of the installation. Hips reduce the overall space of the attic. Hip and semi-hip roofs require windows, which must be given special attention even at the design stage. Windows located in the slope itself are easier to manufacture and install, but must be closed during precipitation. Vertical window openings are much more convenient, but their equipment and installation is much more complicated.

Designing a rafter system for a hip roof

Material for the rafter system

The materials used for the manufacture of load-bearing structural elements must be strong, withstand temperature extremes, have a low specific gravity and be resistant to moisture. The most suitable material is wood. For the manufacture of the structure, conifers with high strength and minimally rotting are chosen. These can be larch, pine or spruce. The finished timber must be treated with an antiseptic and refractory material. Also, the roof truss system can be made of laminated veneer lumber, but this will entail an increase in the length of the purlin.

The rafter system can be made of light metal structures. This roof option is easy to install, easy to operate and maintain, but it costs much more.

The main elements of the rafter system

The basis on which the inner and outer lining of the attic is mounted is the rafter structure. There are often cases when the internal space between the roof and the cladding serves for laying all kinds of communications.

The structure consists of the following parts:

Rafters. They are one of the main elements of the frame of the entire structure. The angle of inclination of the slope, the scheme, stability and strength of the structure depend on their shape and number.
Runs. Designed for joining rafters.
Mauerlat. Rafters are mounted on it. It serves as the foundation for the entire attic structure, evenly distributing the load on the building along its entire perimeter.
Lathing. Sheathing material, mounted on the rafters, to which the roof is attached. In addition, it increases the rigidity of the entire structure.
Skate. The place for the upper attachment of the roof slopes.
Support leg, brace. Spacers that reinforce the rafters.
Sill. Beam between the front wall and the ceiling. Installed parallel to the ridge. Serves as a basis for attaching struts and struts. Gives strength and stability to the rafters.
Tightening. Fastener for fixing the rafters.
Filly. A piece of timber that lengthens the rafters to give the roof overhang of the desired length.
Roof overhang. The lower part of the roof that extends beyond the walls. Designed to protect walls and foundations from the effects of precipitation.

Broken attic structure and its calculation

An attic with a sloping roof is the most used, as the area under the roof can be used to its fullest. The reference scheme is considered to be a section of which there are elementary figures: a rectangle - in the center, an equilateral triangle - at the top, two right-angled triangles on the sides. Drawings of this design are simple to calculate. The general scheme and individual drawings are applied to paper before the calculations.

The sloping roof is calculated by the elements:

calculation of the angle at which the roof will be installed;
determination of the size of the ridge and side rafters, as well as elements for their reinforcement;
calculation of the size of the lathing;
calculation of the areas of the slopes;
determination of the mass of materials required for the roof;
calculation of the load and weight of the insulation;
establishing the required distance between the rafters.

Important! The angle at which the roof is installed should be within 30 degrees at its top and 60 degrees for the side rafters.

The length of the side rafters is calculated using the formula. We have the initial data: 0.5 m - the eaves of the roof, 2.5 m - the height of the support, 60 degrees - the angle of inclination. We apply the formula for calculating the hypotenuse of a right triangle.

L = cornice + height / cosinus 60 = 0.5 + 2.5 / 0.5 = 5.5 meters.

The length for ridge rafters is calculated using the formula for an equilateral triangle. Suppose that the base or the tightening is 4 meters, the angles A at the base correspond to the angle of inclination of the ridge rafters, which is 30 degrees, at the apex of the triangle, the camber angle is 120 degrees.

L = tightening / 2cosinus A = 4 / 2x0.86 = 2.3 meters.

For the installation of a broken attic structure, the minimum permissible cross-sectional dimensions for rafters are selected: 50 x 100 mm. To determine the weight of the rafter material, the average density of the tree is selected with a moisture content of 18 percent. This will amount to 0.5 tons per cubic meter.

The density and pitch of the lathing depends on the roofing material. For a soft roof, plywood sheathing is mounted over the entire surface of the rafters. For semi-rigid and rigid roofs of large sizes, a compacted or sparse sheathing is placed. A continuous sheathing layer must be laid under a large semi-rigid roof. Basically, the lathing is mounted every 25-35 cm. The width of the board is about 25 cm.

To calculate the area, the structure is divided into geometric shapes. Their areas are counted separately each, then all the data are summed up. For a broken attic structure, the area is divided into 4 parts: 2 side, 2 ridge. Calculate the area of each, double it and then add everything up.

Calculating the weight of the roof is a must. Approximate weight of 1 sq.m. roofs can be: slate - from 11 to 14 kg, soft tiles - from 9 to 16 kg, galvanized sheet - from 3 to 6 kg, ceramic tiles - from 50 to 70 kg.

The average load for a sloping roof should be at least 200 kg per linear meter. This will ensure that snow and wind are contained throughout the structure. In addition, there are correction factors that depend on the slope of the structure: up to 25 degrees, the coefficient is 1, from 25 to 60 degrees - 1.025, from 60 degrees and above - absent.

The distance between the rafters is set differently, depending on the roof covering. If the rafters are made with a section of 50x150 mm, then the approximate step between them can be:

for ceramic tiles, slate, ondulin - 80 cm;
for metal tiles - 60 cm;
for corrugated board - 90 cm.

Ksenia Skvortsova. Chief Editor. Author.
Planning and distribution of responsibilities in the content production team, working with texts.
Education: Kharkov State Academy of Culture, specialty “Culturologist. Teacher of History and Theory of Culture ". Experience in copywriting: From 2010 to the present. Editor: since 2016.

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The attic device allows you to expand the usable space of the house. A structure with a high sloping roof will look solid, and its construction will require less effort than the construction of a two-story building. The article will discuss how to make a mansard roof of a house with your own hands.

Varieties of truss structures and roofs

How to make a mansard roof of a house depends primarily on the intended roof structure.

There are 2 types of roofs for organizing an attic:

Standard gable... There are 2 inclined slopes in the roof structure. The pediments in this case are triangular.
Sloping roof... Both slopes in this design are further divided by 2. The pediments have a pentagonal shape.

How to make a mansard roof

The device of a gable roof is much simpler. But it should be understood that the attic in such a design will come out small and with low ceilings. Therefore, to accomplish this task, a sloping roof with a slope angle of 40 to 45 degrees is preferable. And the less the slope, the larger the attic will be. But in this case, additional strengthening of the structure is necessary, the adjacent beams between the rafters.

There are 2 types of truss structures:

Nesting constructions... In this case, only the outer walls serve as a support for the rafters.
Hanging structures... In them, additional strength is given due to the capital partitions on which the rafters are supported.

The forced version can be implemented if there are no such partitions. But in this case, the load-bearing walls will have a very high load. Therefore, it is allowed to install layered structures only if the distance between the main walls is not more than 8 meters. If this is not the case, then it is preferable to organize hanging rafter systems.

How to build a mansard-type roof with a broken slope? For this, combined types of structures are mainly installed. In them, the upper rafters are mounted in a hanging manner, the rest are layered. This design is the most rational for buildings with a low roof slope.

To organize an attic room with ceilings of 2.5 meters, you need to make a roof with a height up to a break of 3.1 meters. The preferred slope of the structure is 60 and 30 degrees. In the upper part of the rafters, angles from 15 to 45 degrees are possible.

DIY Mauerlat installation

Mauerlat in construction is called the lower support of the roof, which is installed on top of the load-bearing outer walls. It allows the roof structure to be supported by taking on a certain portion of the load. Let's figure out how to make a mansard roof yourself.

To organize a gable structure, it is necessary to fix the Mauerlat on both sides of the building where the rafters are located. In this case, the load from the roof will be distributed over the surface of the walls. If the roof structure is relatively light, then it is possible to install the Mauerlat under the rafter legs. In other cases, it is placed along the entire perimeter of the walls.

It is necessary to prepare a timber of coniferous wood, which will be used for the manufacture of Mauerlat. It is recommended to apply a waterproofing layer to the material. Roofing material or bitumen are great for the task.

To mount the attic roof with your own hands to the base, threaded rods are used, designed for a wide washer. In its design, holes must be made that correspond to the size of the mount. The drilling step should not exceed 2 meters.

Now consider the option of how to make a roof of an attic with your own hands, if the house is brick. To install the Mauerlat on brick walls, wooden plugs are used. It is advisable to leave pockets in the masonry - special gaps for laying the structure. In this case, the installation procedure will be easier. Wire rod can be placed in the brickwork, to which it will be possible to screw the Mauerlat to the base without any problems. If you plan to build a house from concrete slabs or aerated concrete, then you need to install an armored belt with metal studs. Moreover, their length should be such that it is enough for the installation of the Mauerlat, followed by tightening the lock nut.

In wooden structures, it is possible to replace the standard support with a bar or an upper log of a log house. This is another way how to make a mansard roof correctly.

Installation of purlins and struts

Girders are additional horizontal beams designed to strengthen the structure.

Types of runs:

Side... Such purlins are placed along the entire roof slope. Their number depends on the surface area, as well as its slope.
Skating... Used to support the top of the rafters. Ridge girders do not have to be used for sloped roofs.

Instructions for building a mansard roof with your own hands step by step:

The first step is to install the Mauerlat.
Then you need to place a temporary decking on the roof so that it is convenient to navigate it.
Now the installation of a U-shaped frame from racks, crossbars and purlins is in progress.
When the frame is completed, the rafters of 50x150 mm need to be laid on it. The braces will allow the structure to be stiffened.

Installation of rafter legs

There are 2 types of rafter attachment:

Sliding(it is also called articulated). It provides for the so-called sleds in the mount, along which the rafters move along the Mauerlat. It is suitable when there is a possibility of settling at home.
Hard... In this case, staples with bolts or wire with nails are used for the connection.

The option of how to correctly make an attic with a sliding mount demonstrates greater reliability, since it takes into account the mobility of the roof elements when the soil subsides. Sliding mounts will be useful when building a wooden house for which shrinkage is possible. It will help the roof "adjust" to the movement of the building.

How to build a roof correctly

Recommendation: to understand the location of the upper rafters, it is worth making a temporary stand from the beams. It is attached to the Mauerlat so that its top is located along the centerline of the roof. This design will be a hint when leveling the upper rafters, which will greatly facilitate the task.

It is necessary to make the upper part of the Mauerlat beveled. It is advisable to pre-make thinner from the board. Then you need to attach it to the run and circle its contours. And already according to the received form, execute the drink. This approach will make the work more accurate. Now you know how to build a mansard roof with your own hands.

The attic in the room not only provides additional living space, but also creates a cozy atmosphere, ennobles the overall appearance of the building. Due to the fact that an "air cushion" is created, the presence of an attic ensures the preservation of heat inside the capital premises itself, despite the fact that it can be used by residents only in the hot season, and not to be heated in the cold. When constructing an additional room, it should be borne in mind that the attic can be done, however, independent work can be complicated by the complexity of the structure and its size, so it is better to turn to the services of a professional.

Roof modifications are varied, but the most commonly used are gable or broken modification. They differ in their organization. Previously, before making a mansard roof of a house with your own hands, you should decide which of the two modifications is more preferable for a particular house, and also easier to install in a particular case, it is necessary to study the features of both structures. When building an attic, you need to understand which type of support method to prefer from the two available. The roof of any structure is one of two variations of rafter systems, either a layered structure or hanging. Both of these structures have their own characteristics, their choice depends on the placement of the bearing wall of the building.

Top Hanging Device Type

This name is given to the organization of rafters, the base for which is only the extreme base walls of the structure. Such a model is used if the building has no other capital ceilings other than the outer walls. The use of this structure is permissible taking into account that the distance between both capital foundations does not exceed eight meters, the reason for this is the tangible weighting of the supporting structures on the base. As you understand, this load should be reduced. To do this, you can use the following tools:

struts;
crossbars;
grandmother;
tightening.

The beams that are used, for example, for overlap are pulled by means of struts to the supporting legs, and the tie is suspended by the headstock to the upper node. For overlapping in this type of structure, hewn logs or wide beams placed on the edge are used. The profile must be at least 100 by 200 mm. In order to comply with the required dimensions, it is recommended to contact a specialist to perform all calculations, the floor in the attic room must be reliable.

Type of layered structure

Unlike the previous scheme, the structure is mounted not only on both supporting external walls, but also on solid ceilings placed on the base. Therefore, before you build an attic roof with your own hands, you need to plan in advance the construction of the attic itself, namely, the foundation. In the event that the base is made of a tape, on which it is already planned to raise the load-bearing partitions, then the layered system is the best option. In this case, the structure can withstand impressive loads and in this regard has an advantage over the hanging scheme, in addition, it provides a strong base for the logs and the deck of the structure. Thanks to the basic floors, the layered structure has additional support. When the builder chooses a broken roofing option for the attic, a mixed roof organization system can be used, in which the side rafters are a layered system, and the upper ones are in the hanging method.

When erecting a building from blocks or bricks, often the front of the attic is constructed from the same material. The main plus is that the builder does not need to calculate the dimensions of the top elements, assemble them and move them onto the wall. However, it must be remembered that a mansard roof with your own hands presupposes a preliminary, carefully designed structure diagram. With such a scheme, the foundation must be strong and the thickness of the walls is appropriate, since with such a pediment there is a huge burden on the base building.

Let's look at this situation. You have decided to use the attic as part of your living space, which is what you need. First, decide how you want to operate it. If it is year-round and as a living room, then the front wall made of bricks or foam blocks will be the most acceptable option for you. To ensure the optimal height of the attic room under a gable roof, the slopes must be made at an angle of 45-50 degrees, based on the width of the end part of the building. With a lower angle, the living space of the room is significantly reduced. In order to avoid the construction of an unjustifiably high roof, which will lead to cost overruns of materials, a heavier structure and significant windage of the roof in strong winds, it is not recommended to increase the steepness of the slopes.

The construction of a gable roof is more simplified than that of a broken structure, due to the use of even rafters from the top to the edge of the walls, and the absence of additional joints and bends. But a broken device has its own advantages, it allows you to organize high ceilings in this part of the dwelling and a spacious room. The installation of a broken system is much more difficult in all respects: in design, in laying the roof covering, in execution, but in this case the structure receives external solidity, and a significant space is formed under the roof. The installation of a broken structure complicates the presence of a large number of connecting nodes, it is necessary to perform all the ligaments according to the rules, only in this case the whole structure will be reliable and motionless.

This design provides for a significant number of complex articulations of the components. In that circumstance, if the structure is made of brick or stone, then the front parts can be erected in advance, as in the original version of the attic, during the main masonry. To create a support system, in this case, it is necessary to organize intermediate supports and retaining connections to them, focusing on the already made gables. Before you implement your idea, you need to prepare. To build a mansard roof with your own hands, you need project drawings of the entire structure. They should be developed in advance, the dimensions should be displayed on them, and only after that it is necessary to organize the purchase of materials for the selected building from the above scheme.

Design dimensions for the gable top of the attic

In order to correctly position all the elements in the general model, it is necessary to take a figure with right angles as a reference point, for example, from a square or rectangle - the profile created by the attic room. Taking as a basis the parameters of the height and width of the room, it is almost impossible to make a mistake in the value of the angles at which the slopes of the top, all retaining elements, rafters and the location of the top will be located. After calculating these parameters, you must immediately transfer the digital data to the drawing. At the very beginning, the middle of the width of the front wall is determined. Taking this value as a basis, it is necessary to determine the indicators of the height of the ridge, the ceiling of the attic room, the dimensions of the eaves overhang and the placement of the base walls.

Any of the structures implies the required volume of connecting joints, of various modifications, therefore, each ligament must be drawn separately in order to see in detail the connections of all nodes that converge at a point.

Each reference scheme accommodates the main links and additional, optional in a number of designs. The main components of the attic roof are:

floor logs are the basis for other elements of the truss structure, they are mounted on the supporting walls of the building;
a supporting leg, which is straight with a gable roof, and in a broken pattern, formed from two components. With this scheme, the upper support is called ridge, since it forms the upper point of the roof - the ridge, the walls of the attic are formed by rafters, which are called lateral;
a sleeper or ridge board is an obligatory element of a gable roof, an exception can sometimes be, for example, when the installation of a broken structure is used;
the Mauerlat is attached to the base side walls of the building and is a powerful legel on which the supporting legs are mounted;
to strengthen both the gable and the broken structure, supporting elements are needed - racks. With a broken scheme, the side and upper supports are attached, and when constructing a gable roof, the rack is the basis for sheathing and insulation of the walls of the room;
bevels or connecting diagonal parts auxiliary fasten the longitudinal beams or posts and supports, thus, the structure is more monolithic.
Attic roof beams are designed for joining uprights. They are considered the main base in all types of attics.
in the broken structure of the top, inter-rafter girders are provided, which are needed to impart rigidity to the structure.

In order to be sure that the created idea is executed correctly, it is recommended to consult with an expert. He will be able to check how correctly all indicators of the entire building are calculated. Also, there are various training systems not for professionals, developed for an advisory purpose, you can familiarize yourself with them by watching the video of a mansard roof with your own hands step by step on our website.

After preparing the drawing, based on the dimensions fixed in it, you can begin to calculate the amount of materials that are needed for the work. The choice of materials should be taking into account the requirements of environmental friendliness and fire-fighting technology. Wooden elements must be treated with special impregnations to reduce the flammability of the material. For the construction of the structure, you will need to purchase:

tree for supporting legs, the profile is selected based on calculations;
depending on the selected support system, the crossbeam, which has a profile of either 100 by 15 mm, or 150 by 200 mm, in addition, the distance between the main structures of the walls must be taken into account;
for rolling the Mauerlat, a sleeper is purchased with a profile of 100 by 150 or 150 by 150 mm;
logs for racks 100 by 100 or 150 by 150 mm;
the subfloor deck is made of unedged boards, in addition, it will be needed for a number of fasteners;
it is necessary to purchase various fastening accessories and a sheet of metal for cutting overlays with a thickness of at least 1 mm;

A do-it-yourself mansard roof built over the house allows you to increase the total living area with minimal financial investment. Among the most popular options is a gable sloping roof, the installation technology of which is not difficult.

Project development

By “breaking” the roof slopes at different angles, you can increase the amount of space under the attic roof. A broken structure, like another type of attic roof, is more massive and heavier than a standard gable roof, which should be taken into account when equipping an attic floor in the process of house reconstruction. First, it is necessary to inspect the condition of the foundation and walls of the structure in order to determine whether they can withstand increased loads. If the device of a massive attic structure is planned at the stage of preparation for construction with your own hands, this should be taken into account when developing a project for the foundation and walls of the house.

The creation of an attic roof project should be considered carefully, since errors in the calculations or incorrectly selected parameters of the elements of the rafter system can lead to damage to the roof itself, and in some cases to the walls of the house, during operation.

It is recommended to entrust the development of the roof roof project to professionals. It is also possible to use special computer programs, with the help of which the optimal angle of inclination of the roof and other parameters are calculated. All calculations are carried out in accordance with the document SNiP "Loads and Impacts".

When choosing an attic project, the construction of which can be done by hand, first of all, it is necessary to pay attention to the dependence of the parameters of the room on the angle of inclination of the roof. The living space must be more than 2.2 meters high. If the roof slopes are straight, then the angle of their inclination seriously affects the width of the room.

The broken attic roof allows you to maximize the room, providing the required height of the ceilings along its entire width. In this case, the side (lower) rafters are located at an angle of about 60 degrees, and the angle of inclination of the upper ones can be chosen at your discretion, based on aesthetic preferences, as well as snow and wind loads typical for the construction area.

Roofing cake and other elements

If you are going to make an attic roof with your own hands, it is necessary to provide for the use of certain materials for the installation of a roofing pie in the project. They include:

waterproofing;
vapor barrier;
insulation;
roofing material.

The choice of insulation affects such a parameter as the pitch of the rafters - in order to save heat-insulating material, it is recommended to position the rafters in such a way that the slab or mat fits snugly between them. The type of lathing (solid or sparse) and the pitch of the sparse lathing depend on the choice of roofing. It should be noted that the construction of the roof of the attic floor provides for the creation of not only high-quality insulation, but also effective ventilation of the roofing system.

Materials and tools

In order to ensure safety, the construction of the rafter system and roof should be carried out using fireproof, environmentally friendly materials. Wood materials are processed with bio-fire protection means.

For the construction of the truss system of a private house with your own hands, you will need:

wooden beam with a cross section of 50 × 100 mm;
board 150 × 50 mm;
unedged board;
80 nails, screws and other fasteners;
annealed wire (diameter 3-4 mm);
level;
plumb line;
roulette;
hacksaws;
axes;
hammers;
sharp knives for carpentry.

The use of a quality tool simplifies and speeds up the installation of wooden structures with your own hands. You can find instructions for conducting work step by step in the video.

Mauerlat device

Mauerlat, made of a bar or a powerful board, acts as the base of the roof truss system. A gable roof requires laying the Mauerlat on the long walls of the house. Mauerlat not only allows you to securely fix the lower part of the rafters, but also contributes to the even distribution of the load during its transfer to the walls and foundation of the building.

To fix the Mauerlat board or timber, metal pins are used, fixed in a monolithic concrete beam, made in the upper part of the wall, or annealed wire embedded in brickwork. When attaching the Mauerlat to the upper crown of a wooden wall, wooden pins are used. The Mauerlat device requires high-quality waterproofing of a wooden beam. For this purpose, roofing felt or other durable materials with water-repellent properties can be used.

Installation of the Mauerlat is necessary if it is planned to build a roof frame with your own hands, the rafters of which rest against the upper part of the wall with a beveled end or a special cutout. In the event that an attic is designed, the width of which actually corresponds to the width of the house, the rafters abut with the lower end against the outlined supports. Strong beams laid across long walls act as supports. The number of supports should correspond to the number of rafter pairs. The beams are attached to the walls in the same way as the Mauerlat; waterproofing is also used.

Mauerlat or support beams must be securely attached to the walls, as these elements prevent the roof from shifting under strong wind loads.

Erection of the support structure

The construction of the frame of a sloping attic roof begins with the laying of supports for the posts, which should be located strictly symmetrically relative to the axis of the building. The distance between the supports is equal to the width of the future attic. First of all, U-shaped arches are mounted on the gables of the structure. Each arch consists of two support legs connected by a lintel. For the manufacture of racks, a bar is used, the section of which must be no less than the section of the support under it.

Racks are installed on a plumb line, strictly vertically. A jumper is attached to them, the horizontalness of which should be checked during installation. The second arch is made according to the dimensions of the first arch on the other front. It is important to level the structure. A cord is pulled between the U-shaped arches, which should be located strictly horizontally. If necessary, one of the arches is dismantled and adjusted exactly to the size. Focusing on the stretched cord, the rest of the arches should be installed. Their number and pitch depends on the projected pitch of the rafters, since the upper end of each rafter is attached to the corresponding rack. This ensures the necessary rigidity of the roof frame.

Racks of U-shaped arches can be attached to the support with metal brackets, nails or spike joints. You can learn about the main methods of connecting the elements of the rafter structure from the video instructions. To ensure the verticality of the racks under the load that the roof will experience during operation, it is recommended to additionally install braces. The arches in the upper part are connected by jumpers parallel to the long walls of the house.

Installation of rafter legs

DIY construction of a broken roof involves the use of two types of rafter legs. The lower rafters are positioned at a very acute angle, connecting the racks to the Mauerlat or the ends of the outgoing transverse supports. The upper gable rafter structure is mounted on the arch system.

Before installing the lower rafter legs, it is necessary to carefully mark the place of their installation on the Mauerlat. The rafters, extreme to the pediment, are mounted first. Trimming the rafter legs is performed in such a way that the cut of the upper edge of the board adjoins at the required angle to the rack, and the lower cut rests against the Mauerlat or the raised support. If, according to the project, the attic roof is made with overhangs of slopes, a cutout of a special shape is made in the lower part of the rafter leg: the rafter rests on a support with the horizontal part of the cutout. The rafter is fastened with nails or staples. It is recommended to additionally strengthen the connections of the legs with the Mauerlat or the outboard support with a baked wire with a diameter of 3-4 mm. All lower rafters are installed in a similar way.

If we are building a house longer than 8 meters, it is recommended to install a rafter system with a ridge bar. Such a device allows you to evenly distribute the load over the entire frame. In this case, racks are installed in the center of the gables, the verticality of which is checked with a plumb line, on which the ridge bar is strictly horizontally mounted. It is important to correctly determine the height of the ridge, since the angle of inclination of the upper rafters directly depends on this. The rafter legs abut with the upper cut ends against the ridge beam, with the lower ones against the supporting arched structure.

The upper rafters of the attic roof can be an L-shaped structure. The rafter legs can be butt-connected to each other using a wooden or metal fastening plate, or by cutting into a half-tree using a bolted connection. It is recommended to fit the first pair of rafters locally, which is then dismantled and used as a template. Prepared farms are installed in a standard manner - first the extreme ones, then the rest with constant leveling.

At the last stage of creating a roofing structure, do-it-yourself installation of the lathing, laying of waterproofing, creation of a ventilation opening, installation of roofing. Heat insulation and vapor barrier are attached from the inside, cladding is attached. In the video, you can learn more about the technology of work.