Instruments

When installing various equipment, cabinets, clamps and so on, studs with threads are used. It's one thing if these studs have inside the hexagon of turnkey, but if there is no, then you have to use stiletors.

The studs are calculated under a certain thread diameter: 6, 8, 10, 12, 14. This is a rather complicated device that has a housing, in the form of a cylinder, with edges for the key at the end, and inside the rollers, in the form of studs. When turning, the rollers are tightly pressed against the hairpin thread and hold it when twisting or unscrewed.

Such devices are used and when the bolt is rolled and a piece of thread remains. But they are not cheap. Although it is like a universal tool. But for different thickness of the thread, it must be the corresponding diameter.

It is not always at hand there is such a tool, so many twist the stud with reservoir means, passats or two nuts, at best couplings. However, if you screw the bolt small in the coupling in the coupling, the heel is wedged into the coupling, fixed by the oncoming screw and it will be possible not only to be spinning, but also unscrew.

In addition, when twisting and unscrewing, it is better to use an electric door with the corresponding bits. Screwing is not quite difficult, since the bolt has previously twisted into the threaded clutch, not only does not allow the hairpin deeply, but also fixes it. Therefore, if necessary, turn the hairpin, it holds it.

If you need to remove the coupling, then it is enough to hold the coupling by a wrench or passage and it can be twisted with the hairpin.

How to unscrew the hairpin? Consider several ways, taking into account the state of the hairpin and the existing tool.

How to unscrew the hairpin for the threaded part

If the stud is quite long and the threaded part is available on 2 or more nuts, then we use one of the listed methods:

• screw the nut, screw the second until it stops first (it is desirable to use high nuts), after which a plug-in tool (key or other) unscrew the stud;
• use a special tool - pin, under the size of the hairpin or universal.

The eccentric styllar is convenient and effective - the more effort applied to it, the stronger it is notched by an eccentric pinches the heel.

How to unscrew the hairpin if carving is available only on 1 nut? In this case, at least 4 ways are available:

• cut the nut on one side with a metal with a metal (direction of the cut - along the axis of the threaded part), turn on the heel, pinch the pipe key so hard so that the threaded part, choosing the gap in the cut, tightly captured the hairpin, to direct the force in the direction of turning;
• screw the nut on the thread, weld it to the hairpin (for example, with a welding semiautomatic) and unscrew the key (or head with a gate);
• hound the nut on the thread, drill the recess in the end of the stud (with a diameter of the approximate half of the stud diameter), score into this deepening the TORX nozzle (E-profile, or other similar to the longitudinal ribs) and to unscrew the tap of the nozzle (in this case, you can help the second hand with a hornko or a precipitant key that attaches an effort to the nut in addition to the main effort on TORKS);

In a manner with a screwdriver for this purpose, a large version or power with the T-shaped handle is better.

How to unscrew the hairpin for a smooth cylindrical part

If only a smooth stiletto section is available (for example, the threaded part is broken), then the following techniques are applicable;

• to hold the cylindrical part in a passing tool (in pliers, pipe, small viccs, clamp, or dr.) and attach an effort towards unscrewing;
• weld to the broken end with welding metal rods as a T-shaped handle;
• wash the nut a little more diameter, weld to the hairpin in a circle and unscrew the key;
• use a square washer thick with a nut or more, with an inner diameter under one size with a diameter of the cylindrical part of the stud (ideal if the washer sits on the cylindrical part of the stud with tension), cut it on one side in the same way in the previous subsection, put on the heel, clamp tube key and unscrew;
• use the cry (the one that is used to cut the thread), cleaning the end of the hairpin to the square of the desired size;
• use a stiletcher;
• digging the metal in the end to a flat screwdriver in the end, with the help of which to remove the hairpin.

In some cases, if possible, to enhance the impact, at the same time, the second tool (tubular key, pliers, etc.) can be used to enhance an effort to a screwdriver or wrench, clinging through a smooth side surface and affecting the direction of turning.

How to unscrew the broken hairpin

If the stud is broken and no protruding over the surface of the part, then you can unscrew it in the following ways:

• the welding semiautomotim gradually and gently "rigging" a couple of centimeters (if the end of the hairpins in the zone reach the welding wire) and for this "thief" to be turned off using a clamping tool;
• use a special tool - an extractor (seemingly similar to the tap, the working part of the cone, the direction of the thread is the opposite thread of the hairpin): Align the sticking end of the stud with a file (or smoothly sprinkled with metal with a metal), to put the hole of the desired diameter to drill on the heel axis depths (approximately 2/3 from the length of the working part of the extractor), insert the extractor and rotate with an effort before unscrewing the stud;
• preparation with tripling as the previous way, only to apply the tap on the left thread of the hairpins (if the stud with the right direction) is when the tap, cutting the thread, will strive into the bottom of the drilled recess in the body of the hairpin, the fragment is often twisted;
• drill the center of the hairpin, choose the diameter in order not to hurt the threaded part of the nest, after which the remnants of the metal studs are removed;
• remove the broken part of the stud and the threaded socket on the drilling machine or the hand drill with the larger diameter drill under the repair pin.

The use of the method of drilling a deepening with a dripping tip in it carries the risks of the wedge enhancement in the threaded nest due to the expanding deformation of the heel walls. Given the possible complications, we will not recommend it in this situation, despite the fact that it is limited, with certain conditions, and it can be applied.

Difficulty can deliver the eclipse of the stiletto if the bummer occurred in the depths. In this case, an end borcine will be invaluable help.

Another variation for drilling methods. You can apply drills with the left direction of rotation and the electric drill with the direction switch and the adjustment of the speed. When drilling on small revolutions, the subfluous thread can be asleep and, due to the left rotation, the drains of the studs are easily removed from the place and leaves the threaded slot.

The drilling is often wiser to do in several passes, from a small drill to what larger, to the desired diameter.

How to unscrew the fucking stud

The scurriculum must be twisted with additional tricks, both in terms of the toolkit and in terms of the technique.

• apply a few blows with a hammer in the end of the studs along its axis, without damaging the edge of the thread;
• apply several unsalted strikes from different sides of the side surfaces of the heel (to the threaded part at the same time turn the nut to exclude damage), without allowing it to be flexions;
• apply special penetrating compositions - WD-40, liquid key and their analogues, giving the necessary time in accordance with the instructions for these drugs from their manufacturer before trying to unscrew;
• use the extension to the manual tool to increase the forces applied (twist of greater length or putting the pipe of the appropriate diameter on the rotating end of the hand tool;
• it is not a horn key when turning around the welded nut, and the Super Lock head, in which the force is applied not to the corners (faces), but to planes;
• instead of the application of the physical strength and a manual tool, use the shock wrench (if it is not in the home workshop, you can contact the nearest tireage or car service, delivering the part with the fucking stiletto);
• with the method of cooling the two nuts, the first to wind up to the stop with so much effort so that it crashed into the cylindrical part of the stud, and the second nut to use is not standard, and self-dying (this will allow to use much greater effort, reducing the risk of idle unscrewing nuts);
• he heat out several times and make cool, warm and unscrewed at the final stage.

An indispensable multiple heating and to unscrew the studs planted for special compositions - thread retainers.

When you unscrew the baked stud for the welded or screwed nut, it is better to use, that tool that is more durable constructively and more denser covers the perimeter of the work surfaces of the nut, excluding the plugs of the faces:

• 6-face head instead of 12-graded;
• super Lock head instead of usual;
• caid key location location;
• gorotok instead of a ratchet.

How to unscrew the stud from the exhaust manifold

If the steel stilet is supposed in a steel or cast-iron manifold, it is possible to heat up until the metal is reddening, using a neat gas cutter, a gas burner from the spray, a soldering lamp or other suitable equipment.

How to unscrew the hairpin from the exhaust manifold to prevent cracks in the cast iron? First of all, it is impossible to artificially intensively cool the cast-iron item. It is necessary to heat the collector himself, not behind the hairpin: the collector will warm up and he will give a slightly in the zone of the threaded hole with a rush pin, and the difference in the heating of the parts is even more weakened by grabs.

How to unscrew the hairpin from aluminum part

The parts made of aluminum and its alloys cannot be intensively influence the gas cutter and other powerful equipment due to the risk of melting parts or their other damage under the influence of high temperatures. In this case, you can:

• you can heat only the hairpin and then not to red;
• apply to heating the aluminum part of the thermofen (thermopystole) or limitedly using a soldering lamp in a more gentle temperature mode than a gas burner can provide.

How to unscrew the hairpin from the engine block

First of all, when choosing an approach, you need to proceed from the material from which the engine cylinder block is made. In the case of a cast-iron block, we use an approach with intense heating to redness of the gas burner. If the aluminum block is, in the zone of the stiletto, he warms it with a neat thermofen, not allowing damage to the expensive part from high temperatures.

For example, unscrew the hairpin from the ZMZ 402 engine block is often very difficult. It is characterized by systemic problems with unscrewing certain studs due to the material of the block and the characteristics of its heating during operation.

Several heating cycles and gradual cooling will be significantly easy to remove the hairpin from the block 402. Recall that the spilet is carried out in the heated state. The impact on the heel will be very useful - along its axis or loosening blows on the sides from different sides.

How to unscrew the broken hairpin from the block. We were outlined above in a separate subsection, the techniques for this part do not differ in originality.

How to unscrew the hairpin from the head of the cylinder block (GBC)

Solving the question, how to unscrew the hairpin from the GBC, it is necessary to proceed from the material of the head. Cast iron heads are rare, mainly on old cars, and most often they are from aluminum alloys.

On the block heads often have to deal with embarrassed stiletto.

To unscrew the stud from the head of the cylinder block, you can apply the most convenient and efficient methods and techniques from those listed above. Often this is the method of two nuts, the use of extractor or drilling. To enhance the effect, it is more expedient to use a preliminary expanding climbing on the sides, the use of penetrating compositions, rotation with two tools.

Conclusion

Faced with the question of how to unscrew the hairpin from the block, head, manifold, starter, wheel hubs or other parts, you can choose an effective solution of the problem from several methods and techniques, taking into account the available tools and means. It can be applied as existing practically in any garage, plumbing tools and specialized, such as stiletroke.

Before unscrew the hairpin, it is necessary to apply a shock effect to it. Also, if the threaded socket into the part details, and the end of the hairpin sticks out, then the visible part of the thread is worth cleaning from contaminants that can create additional difficulty when unscrewing. It also facilitates the extraction operation of the preliminary use of penetrating compositions.

In specialized auto repair shops, in production, in construction - wherever you often work with studs, it is applied to a spiers. Experienced masters who know their work, there is no need to explain his appointment. Yes, and the name speaks for itself. However, many may be unclear features of the instrument design, its appearance, how it works and how much is approximately.

Design features of the spilette, the principle of operation

The most famous design of this tool consists of a housing in which three rollers are located. Due to the complex inner surface of the body, the rollers are rotated firmly pinch, ensuring its turning, even in difficult cases (fastening of automotive collectors, silencer elements and other places where the carving of the studs "sticks" to the opening of the parts in which they are twisted). On the reverse side, the case, as a rule, has a square hole under the standard size of cracks (gates), as well as the hexagonal shape of the outer surface, to hold a wrench.

In addition, there are constructions, the fundamental device of which is similar to the usual three-tier (collet) cartridge. The sponge of the cartridge during rotation also ensure the reliable hold of the studs, which makes it possible to turn it out or spin it with minimal effort. This tool is more universal, since it is assumed to work with studs of different diameters. Some structures based on the principle of clamping with the help of rotary eccentric also have a certain versatility (the scope is expanding due to the fact that the same tool can be used with different fastener diameters).

A lot of constructions are invented by those who love to make equipment and auxiliary mechanisms with their own hands - starting with several nuts, compressed among themselves on a free hairpin thread, up to relatively complex devices, where wedges or eccentrics are used to fix the stud.

If the use is frequent, it makes sense to acquire not one stud, and the set for different diameters of studs. Rotation can be carried out manually and with various power tools - screwdrivers, pneumatic wrench or drills. After the hairpin is safely unscrewed, the stilettos, turning in the opposite direction, removed from it. For the sake of justice, it should be noted that after applying this device, the threads of the hairpin must be restored using a dice (the thread turns out to be somewhat), especially if the fasteners are reused.

Advantage of using spiletts

A fairly large number of people today are faced with difficulties when removing the fastener threaded parts (studs or bolts). If we talk about the auto service, it is most often related to the repair of old cars, where some elements of the compound did not twisted decades. The advantages of applying a special device are as follows:

• with it, in the overwhelming majority of cases, it is possible to unscrew the bolt with a broken head, without damaging the threads into the details;
• there remains almost intact the heel itself, after a turn of the shrink, it is suitable for re-use;
• minimum time spent on work;
• made of high-quality steel, the tool is distinguished by strength and durability;
• in hard-to-reach places, it is often more convenient to apply items that are stiletto, and not a screwdriver.

Simply put, the tool makes it easier and speeds up work. It is no secret that a broken rusted bolt in the absence of special equipment can paralyze all the repair of the car. And the unsuccessful hairpin can cause the repair time in three times. Therefore, if the hairpin suddenly does not want to turn out of such a place where its breakdown can cause serious problems, it is better to use specially designed tools for this.

Price for spilets

For household use, a universal stiletooth can be quite convenient, which allows you to work with different diameters of threaded parts. For car services or one hundred, the most functional can be a special set, which includes up to a tent of the heads of the most common diameters. Especially since finding and buying the spilette today does not represent much difficulty - these devices are sold both in ordinary stores and on various Internet sites. Prices are fairly democratic - for a universal eccentric mechanism this range from 400 to 1000 rubles. Studelners with three rollers are sold from 300 to 600 rubles per piece, if we consider the most common sizes. Sets can be purchased from 1.5 to 8 thousand rubles, depending on the configuration, quality and manufacturer. In the event of professional use on the manufacturer, it is better not to save, the more difference in price is not too large.

Hello everyone!

At the beginning of the year, we had a "season replacement season", "grenades" flew one after another. I have relatives and acquaintances.
All these old parts were spare parts in scrap metal, waited for their turn.

Production of a knock-owner with their own hands

For the manufacture of the spilette, except the screw and the standard set of tools will require electrical welding.

From the tripoid cut off everything too much, from the shank cut off the harvesting of the eccentric.

In the Tripoid Corps made a slot so that an eccentric was placed in her.

Polished blanks.

With the help of two nuts and rods connected eccentric with the case. From a broken wrench made a handle.

Tests of stiletry

First test. Bolt, strongly squeezed in vice, spinning quite easily without an additional lever.

Once again, everything cleared. Handle came in handy from old cords.
Such a tool must last last, because The metal is good, and the teeth are subjected to additional quenching.

But the purchase of the spilet is another design. The teeth on the eccentric were laughed on the first stud. (It is not visible in the photo).

About what else can be made from a shrus will tell in the following works. Thanks to all!

In the practice of repairing autotractor equipment, there is a need to overtake and retrieving studs - fasteners without turnkey surfaces. For these purposes, a special tool is used - a stiletry or a key for studs. About the studs, their types, work and selection read in this article.

What is a stiletry?

Studberry (key for studs) - a specialized tool for screwing and retrieving threaded studs.

The hairpin is a fastener in the form of a rod with a thread at both ends. The stud in one part is screwed into the product, and the nut is screwed into its second part. In the design of the studs, special surfaces under the bar are not provided (such as heads at bolts or faces at nuts) or another tool, which significantly complicates the procedure for its overtaking and retrieving. As a result, it is necessary to use special tools that are named with spilek keys or simply spilets.

To properly buy a knock-out need to figure out the existing types of this tool, their features and advantages.

Types, Design and Style Operation Principle

The main problem of working with studs is to ensure reliable fixation of the cylindrical rod without damaging and with necessary for the insertion or twist. Several solutions of this task are proposed, and according to the clipping method, the spilets are divided into several types:

• Roller;
• Eccentric;
• Collet (cam);
• With a wrench and focus.

At the same time, all types of tools may have the execution of one of two types:

• Independent instrument working without additional devices;
• Equipment for working with conventional keys, gates, ratchets and other devices.

The first type tool is convenient and easy to use, it is always ready for work, however, as a rule, has a more complex design and high cost. The second type tool may have a turnkey hexagon or a standard size square (usually 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 inches) under the gate, ratchet, etc. This tool is more universal, compact and has an affordable cost.

Each of these tools has its own design features and the principle of operation.

One of the simplest on design and reliable tools. In general, it is a cylindrical case, inside which three cylindrical rollers are located, between which the spacer inserts can be additionally installed. The inner surface of the housing has a complex profile (triangular with rounded edges and angles, with elements of ovalid, etc.), so rollers rolling inside the housing can approach and move away from its central axis.

Works roller pin just. The tool is put on the heel and turns through the key or turning. When turning, the rollers are rolled over the heel and the inner surface of the case, which leads to the encounter of the stud - now the hand force is transmitted to it, which allows you to screw or twist it.

The keys for the studs of this type are simple, reliable and convenient, however, have a significant drawback - each pin is performed under a certain diameter of the hairpin. Only in this case is required to fit the rollers to the hairpin and its jamming when turning. Therefore, to work with various studs, you need to have a whole set of roller stiletors.

The tool of this type is also very simple, while it is more versatile than the roller. Structurally, this eccentric styllar is very simple: it is the basis of the body with one or two holes for the heel, on which the hinge eccentric is located - a metal disk with a corrugated edge and the possibility of supplying holes. Also on the housing is the knob or square to install a turning, ratchet or other fixture.

Eccentric stud works simply: the tool is put on the hairpin, the disk is supplied to the stud, and the entire tool turns - when turning, the eccentric rests on the stud, jershes it and allows you to transfer the effort to it for screwing / turning it.

Today there are eccentric stilers of two types:

• Universal - with one or two holes allowing the use tool to work with various diameter with studs;
• Under the size - with one hole for working with stiletto diameter.

It should be noted that there are tools that combine the design features of eccentric and roller spilets. In this instrument, there are three small eccentric covering the heel, when turning to the tool, the eccentric junks the stud at three points, providing maximum clamp and a lot of effort.

This is a universal tool having a device similar to a collet cartridge drill and other tools. The basis of the studs of this type is the case, inside which the moving cams are located. When turning the cam housing converge to the center, clamping the hairpin, and ensuring the transmission to it for its hand.

The collet stilers are most universal, as they allow to work with various diameter with studs, even with non-standard. However, the cams do not always provide the necessary degree of fixation of the tool on the hairpin, so the stilever of this type is often not able to cope with fasteners. This is an inexpensive amateur tool that is practically not used in auto repair shop.

Studrel with a wrench and emphasis

This tool is quite simple in design, so it is often manufactured in handicraft conditions. The base of the spilet is the housing with the handles, at the bottom of which the nut is located, and the thread has a thread for screwing the turning. In the housing opposite the nut, a hole with a thread for a bolt or a screw, which the nut is fixed from turning.

It works such a tool simply. The housing is installed and fixed by a nut of the required size, the tool nut turns onto the heel, then the housing turns the knob, it rests on the end of the studs and is encouraged. Now the body turns against a clockwise arrow, and the stud, fixed with the nut and the gate, turns out.

This tool is used, as correctly, only to turn the spree. It, despite the simplicity of the design, requires the execution of a large number of operations to work with one stud, so it is not always convenient. Today, the keys for studs of such or similar design are rarely used, they are ousted by simpler and comfortable roller and eccentric stiletrs.

How to choose a spitrel

When choosing a spitcher, it is necessary to take into account the nature of the work that will be carried out by this tool, and their frequency.

For use in a garage, when the studs have to be pulled out only from time to time, the best solution will be the universal styllar of the eccentric type. Such a tool will allow working with studs of various sizes (it can be turned out and screwed up the studs of almost all engines - from the pump stakes of motor collections to medium-digit trucks, you can also repair other units with studs), it is reliable and easy to operate, and has an affordable price. You can also purchase a collet stiletry, but it does not always provide the necessary degree of fixation and cannot work with high-diameter studs.

For professional use in the car service, the best choice will be sets of roller or eccentric spilets. The presence of a tool for a certain size of the studs significantly improves the quality and speed of work, and the cost of it pays off in a short time. Although in this case it will not be superfluous to have a universal eccentric tool - it can be quickly fulfilled with uncomplicated work.

With the right selection of the score, you provide yourself with a reliable tool that will help solve the most difficult tasks for the maintenance and repair of vehicles.