Sheathing with a blockhouse outside. Self-finishing of a house with a blockhouse - how to do it correctly

The appearance of residential buildings reflects the individuality of the owners. The cladding of the house with a block house creates a presentable covering, conducive to unity with nature. Moreover, working with products is not so difficult, which allows you to avoid unnecessary expenses... The main thing is strict adherence to the features and a few nuances.

To sheathe the outside of the house, different variants... Among them, the main ones are distinguished:

On a note! Block house houses can be clad with acrylic and plastic varieties, but the first option has a higher cost, and the second is of poor quality.

Among polymer coatings acrylic "Block House" is considered to be of the highest quality, since, unlike vinyl, it does not fade in the sun

How to fix a block house?

Before sheathe a house with a block house, you need to decide on the technology of work. Installation can be done in three ways:

Directly to the base. In such a situation, the parts are laid directly on the carefully prepared wall. The option is inconvenient in that it excludes the possibility of using insulation and requires leveling the surface.
On the erected crate. This method allows you to get the job done much faster. Feasibility of use thermal insulation material is determined depending on the type of building and climatic features of the area.
With the creation of a ventilation facade. This structure consists of several successive layers: vapor barrier, counter-lattice, insulation, membrane, main frame posts and finishing material.

The most popular exterior cladding scheme is considered to be a ventilated facade with insulation.

Each option has advantages and disadvantages and is selected depending on the specific situation.

Grafted exterior cladding with a block house

All work on cladding a house with a block house with their own hands begins with the definition of the basic technological rules for installation, which will avoid mistakes in the future.

First of all, you need to understand the nuances of fixing each variety:

Much attention is paid to docking in different situations.

In case of a shortage of the length of the parts for one wall, you need to take care of a beautiful joint, otherwise the appearance will be spoiled. There are several ways to solve this problem:

Smooth joining of panels looks nice, but installation with a cover plate is much easier

When connecting parts of adjacent walls, the angle can be external and internal, most of the joints of houses belong to the first option. Contemporary cladding involves the application corner profile, which is superimposed on the docking area. For the inner segment, such an option is also provided - this is a part with grooves into which the edges are recessed.

For wooden materials, the corner is made from two thin strips, the inner and outer sections are connected by cutting. This provides a beautiful transition and does not disrupt the perception of the building as a timber frame.

These nuances help to choose the best option and avoid further problems.

It is quite difficult to cut corner strips at 45º, so it is better for a beginner to mount an overhead board

House cladding using a block house with your own hands

Exterior finishing involves the execution of work in a strict sequence, this will allow you to achieve the desired result.

Material preparation

If artificial products are used for cladding, then preparation is not required. But before sheathing the house with natural material, serious processing is needed:

With the help of stain and others decorative impregnations appearance wood cladding can be radically changed

Preparation of the base

A do-it-yourself block house is laid on the surface by any convenient method. Fastening directly is possible only in cases where the base has been prepared.

The most preferable is to create a wireframe:

If work is carried out on a base that has cracks and cracks, then the defects are pre-filled. Old wooden surfaces covered with an antiseptic.

On a note! Lathing for metal and vinyl types material is made of galvanized profile.

Under metal panels mount the crate from UD and CD profiles

Mounting

Do-it-yourself installation of a block house takes place according to a certain scheme:

The finished surface is left for some time. If used wood block-house, then it is covered with an additional layer of protection: depending on the previous treatment, it can be varnish or paint.

Internal work

The house, sheathed with a block house, with correct execution process always looks attractive, but the material looks no less impressive inside the building. This use of panels has some features:

Only natural products are used, since plastic imitation does not provide the necessary comfort.
For wall cladding, smaller parts are purchased, this avoids the congestion of the room.

For interior decoration, it is advisable to use small-format panels.

The processing of the elements may not be as thorough, because the coating will not be affected by an aggressive environment.

The general installation process completely coincides with exterior decoration... The main thing is to follow the rules for choosing products and the nuances of styling.

The modern home cladding construction market has to offer different materials: tiles, stone, siding, plastic. But the simplest and most comfortable to operate is the block house. In order to know how to properly sheathe a house with a block house, you need to have an idea of the material itself and the specifics of working with it.

Brief description of the material

Block house is one of the most popular building materials, which is convenient to use both in order to sheathe the house outside and inside, and all this is easy to do with your own hands, without involving the labor of hired workers.

By material type blockhouse can be of three types: metal, plastic and wood... Their installation is slightly different.

The plastic block house is the lightest, respectively, and the crate for it can be made lighter and simpler

Wood is environmentally friendly and natural material... Despite the fact that wooden surfaces require additional processing, most people prefer to work with it.

Choosing a block house

The assortment of the wooden blockhouse is so great that the question involuntarily arises as to which material to choose.

In fact, this is influenced by two factors:

sizes;
material.

Having familiarized yourself with the specifics in detail, you can make the right choice.

Dimensions (edit)

The convenience of the panels of this material, first of all, is that they are already prepared for work: they have special longitudinal ends, which greatly facilitate installation.

On construction market the following sizes are available:

wide panels 15 cm;
narrow panels less than 15 cm.

Narrow boards are used for indoor cladding, while wide boards are used for external cladding. they provide better protection from the wind. Of course, the price for wide boards will be higher.

Length

The most common sizes are 3 - 6 m. It is possible to find siding and custom sizes, but most often this material can be purchased only on order. No installation will do without waste, but careful marking and calculation will help to minimize them.

Thickness

In hardware stores, a blockhouse is usually measured in cubic, square, or running meters... When purchasing, it is recommended to carefully study the price tag, paying attention to which surface the dimensions are indicated. After all the difference between the working or common surface is about 6-7 mm.

Sometimes the price tag indicates the price in terms of the total surface, which can cause problems when you have to sheathe the house with a block house. 6-7mm is a slight difference, but by large area the difference can be several boards.

Material

For outdoor work, coniferous wood is most often used. The most common and cheapest materials include larch, pine and spruce.

It is believed that larch - best material.

Its advantages are obvious:

high strength;
moisture-repellent effect;
resistance to the action of microorganisms;
durability.

Ancient Venice all stands in water on larch piles, and how many centuries without major repairs

The cost of larch panels is somewhat high. Pine and spruce are much cheaper, but the characteristics of these materials look more modest.

More about technical characteristics pines and spruce, the differences between them can be seen in the table:

Basic properties of wood	Pine	Spruce
Colour	Reddish or yellowish	White
Color stability	It gets more intense over time	Retains original color
Texture	Pronounced	Pronounced
Permissible moisture content of dry molded products	480 kg per 1m3	430 kg per 1m3
Resinousness	High content	Reduced content
Knots and their location	A small amount of	A large number of
Resistance to decay	High	Average
Strength	High	Lower than pine
Reaction to machining	The wood is soft	The wood is harder

Based on the data, we can say that the properties of pine are superior to those of spruce. Therefore, of the two economy materials, it is recommended to use pine.

On the market you can buy panels and hardwoods. But the price for them is much higher, because manufacturers usually release such goods on order and in small quantities.

For external facing works block house is better to purchase coniferous panels trees of grade AB, because this is the best material in terms of price-quality ratio.

Storage conditions

You should pay attention to:

indoor humidity level;
use of pallets for storage;
the presence of packaging that protects the panels from dirt and dust;
Availability natural ventilation.

If any storage conditions are violated, it is not recommended to buy the material.

How to properly sheathe a house with a block house

Having chosen the material and having decided on the size of the block house, you can start preparing the installation.

Required tools

To complete the work, you will need the following set of tools:

nails (screws) or clamps;
hacksaw or power saw;
level;
antiseptic solutions for surface treatment;
varnish or paint for finishing.

Flame retardants will protect the wooden block house from unnecessary ignitions

When working with chemically active solutions, it is recommended to use additional funds protection in the form of gloves.

Preparation

Like any construction works, installation of panels requires preliminary preparation.

Surface preparation is done in the usual way:

cleansing from all sorts of stains;
treatment with antiseptic solutions.

At exterior cladding wooden house siding the surface does not need to be leveled, because it will still be processed on top with a layer of insulation and a crate.

Wood panels block house must be treated with special solutions to increase the service life.

It is better to start sheathing about a year after the end of the construction. It is recommended to dig through the surfaces of the house. Otherwise, no additional insulation can help, and the room will always be cool.

The preparation of the walls of houses made of bricks, foam blocks and other materials is somewhat different.

It consists of several stages:

cleaning the surface from efflorescence;
leveling the walls with plaster to obtain a smooth and even surface;
installation of a metal lathing.

The lathing is leveled using a plumb line or level. The quality of further installation depends on how well the lathing will be.

If you plan to sheathe the house in full, you should prepare:

vapor barrier film;
crate;
thermal insulation;
windproof film;
counter-lattice.

Wooden or brick house it is possible not to process it with a film for vapor barrier, it is more important to decide on the type of insulation and choose optimal thickness... For these purposes, well suited mineral slabs.

When choosing insulation, it is important to take into account the thickness of the walls that will be sheathed b. For example, if the thickness of the walls of a wooden house is 15 cm, it is recommended to use insulation with a maximum thickness of 10 cm, or 5 cm in order to save money.

The thickness of the battens of the sheathing depends on which insulation was chosen..

Since there are mineral insulation plates between the battens of the crate, their thickness must be mutually consistent. For example, if the thickness of the insulation is 5 cm, then the lathing should have the same dimensions.

The next stage of the preparatory work is covering with a windproof film and installing a counter grill. This is necessary in order to create a distance between the layers of insulation and the cladding, thanks to which there will be naturally ventilation is provided and sound insulation properties are improved.

Ventilation of the insulating layer significantly increases its service life

When all preparatory work finished, you can start installing the panels.

Features of block house installation

When installing, the panels must be positioned so that the grooves are at the bottom and the spikes are at the top so that moisture and dust do not accumulate in the boards.

It is imperative to leave gaps between the last above and below panels for natural ventilation of the surface. Between the panels themselves, it is better to leave 5 mm distances to ensure ease of installation.

Attachment nuances

The process itself does not cause difficulties and is carried out quickly enough. The main questions that arise are related to how to mount and carefully mount in the corners.

Thick wide boards require reliable fastening, therefore it is strongly recommended in such cases to use self-tapping screws with anti-corrosion coatings in the form of zinc or anodizing.

You can use nails as fasteners, which will somewhat reduce the cost of the total cost of work. If nails and screws are visible on the surface, then cleats are used for concealed fastening.

Their use has several advantages:

no risk of damaging the treated surface;
ease of installation, because they are made exactly to the size of the panels;
reliability and durability;
aesthetic appearance.

The main disadvantage is the high price compared to other fasteners. But if there is no experience in installation, it is better to use kleimers, because when using nails and screws, cracks and chips can easily form.

Finishing works

The final works are surface treatment with varnish or paint to give an aesthetic appearance and increase the service life.

The metal and plastic blockhouse does not need final finishing.

How much does it cost to sheathe a house with a block house

Anyone who wants to sheathe a house with a blockhouse, with all its advantages, will notice that price it is quite democratic. The cost depends on the dimensions of the surface, the type, grade of material and the types of fasteners used. The price of work when hiring specialists is low. Therefore, if you do not have enough experience, it is better to turn to professionals.

How to properly sheathe the outside of a house with a block house with your own hands can be seen in more detail in the video:

Wood is increasingly used in interior decoration. The traditional lining has been replaced by a blockhouse today. Why is it good? Outwardly, it resembles an ordinary board. The ribs have a groove and a ridge. After finishing the surface with this material, the wall looks like it is assembled from a bar or from cylindrical logs.

Blockhouse is an environmentally friendly material, harmless to the human body, quite lightweight and durable.

The panels are endowed with a semicircular face that imitates a rounded log.

It breathes, has sound insulation properties, and is easy to install. The technology of working with a blockhouse is not much different from working with a clapboard.

For open balconies the spike of the blockhouse must have a vertical position, as a result of which precipitation will never allow itself to fall into the grooves, which in turn will have a great effect on the durability of the material.

The blockhouse is made from deciduous and coniferous wood species. Standard width boards are 96-175 mm, thickness 20-47 mm, length - 3 meters, less often 6 meters. One of the surfaces imitates a timber or round log... It is undesirable to use coniferous material for finishing baths and saunas, since under the influence high temperature it can give off a lot of resin. And in living quarters, such decoration will give the walls a unique structure and aroma of wood, especially if the blockhouse is made of pine or cedar. Better to choose boards minimum thickness up to 15 cm wide. They should not have cracks, signs of rot, traces of any tools. In the bath, it is better to use a linden blockhouse for wall decoration.

Materials and tools

Wall cladding technology assumes the presence of the following tools and materials:

roulette;
the blockhouse itself;
wooden bars 30x40 or 40x50 mm for lathing;
skirting boards and platbands;
antiseptic for wood processing;
wood stain, varnish or construction wax;
construction level;
antiseptic brush;
sandpaper;
saw-hacksaw or circular;
rubber mallet;
drill or hammer drill with drills;
self-tapping screws anodized or galvanized;
screwdriver;
mineral wool or other insulation;
foil kraft paper;
moisture insulating film.

Preparation

The blockhouse is installed on the crate. To complete the lathing, it is used wooden block section 30x40 mm. The technology for constructing the lathing is simple. On the wall, the bars are attached perpendicular to the direction of installation \. Most often, the blockhouse is mounted horizontally. In this case, the crate is arranged vertically. TO wooden wall lathing bars are fastened with self-tapping screws for wood without any problems. Remains only with the help building level or a plumb line to control their verticality. When installing the battens on concrete or brick wall you will have to pre-drill holes in the wall and use dowels. In this case, it is convenient to first screw the screws into the bar, attach it to the wall, mark the centers of future holes and then drill them with a drill with a diameter of 6-8 mm using a perforator. It remains to insert dowels into the holes and fix the bar. To prevent the block from cracking while screwing in the self-tapping screw, you can also drill holes in it slightly smaller than the diameter of the self-tapping screw. The length of the self-tapping screws must be 75 mm or more. The battens are spaced at intervals of approximately 50 cm.

When finishing external facades, it is recommended to make thermal insulation. It is not necessary to do this indoors. When installing thermal insulation, before installing the lathing, the wall is covered with a waterproofing film. It can be a special waterproofing porous film, roofing material, polyethylene and other materials. It can be fixed with an ordinary construction stapler. On top of the waterproofing layer, the lathing is installed in the usual way. Only the bars here will be at least 40x50 mm in size, since the thermal insulation material is most often in slabs 50 mm thick. It fits between the lathing bars as tightly as possible. Grooves and slots that remain somewhere can be filled polyurethane foam... The last stage of the thermal insulation device is to cover the entire crate with mineral wool, foam or other insulation with vapor barrier foil-clad kraft paper. The foil layer should be facing outward. This material is also attached to the battens with a stapler. The joints are glued with aluminum tape. Now you can start assembling the blockhouse.

Sheathing

Docking blockhouse in the corner ( inner corner) is performed more difficult, for this it is necessary to dock the end of the board very accurately, in compliance with the surface relief, with the board on the opposite wall.

Before installation, it is necessary to let the boards lie on a flat surface without packaging in the room for several days, so that they acquire the humidity of the room. Some owners also treat them with an antiseptic. Usually the blockhouse is laid horizontally, but vertical laying is also possible. Vertical laying justifies itself in the bathhouse, in the sauna. In this case, excess moisture does not accumulate in the grooves. It is better to position the blockhouse boards so that the spike is on top and the groove is on the bottom.

You can start sheathing the wall both from below and from above. Each block is attached to the crate with a self-tapping screw. A self-tapping screw with a diameter of 3 mm is installed at an angle and screwed into the spike of the board. You can pre-drill a hole with a thin drill. With this method of fastening, it is more convenient to start work from the bottom. Horizontalness is controlled by level. The next board can be seated on the ridge of the lower one by light tapping with a rubber mallet. You can fix the blockhouse with special clamps, but it will cost more. And these fasteners themselves can rust over time.

During installation, it is necessary to leave small gaps in the corners, near the floor and near the ceiling in case of thermal expansion of the cladding. They will close decorative corners and skirting boards. Clearances at window and doorways closed with platbands, which are fastened with self-tapping screws, finishing nails without a hat or liquid nails... Better to use special decorative platbands... You can hide all kinds of wires behind them.

The blockhouse is attached to the crate in two places (at the groove and at the tongue) using staples, nails, and self-tapping screws. At the end of the installation, the heads of the screws used for fastening can be hidden under wooden corks planted with glue.

After finishing, the premises must be protected from possible exposure to dust, moisture, dirt and grease. For this there is special means in the form of primers, stains and varnishes. Better to use varnish or construction wax. When using varnish, it is applied in two or more layers. After drying, the first layer is sanded with a fine emery cloth to remove from the surface the fine pile raised during the application of the first layer. After such processing, the walls will acquire a greater shine, the structure of the wood will appear brighter, and the service life of the cladding will increase. Occasionally, the sheathed surface will need to be vacuum cleaned or wiped down with a damp sponge. With the help of stains, you can give the coating the desired shade.

There are many known cases of the construction of lungs in their design. country houses from the blockhouse. On a light shallow foundation, a frame of a house made of bars is mounted. The frame is sheathed with a blockhouse on both sides. The house is ready. Outwardly, it looks like it was built from a bar or chopped from logs. Such a structure is much cheaper than usual. 1 sq. m of a blockhouse can be bought for 300-400 rubles. The price depends on the quality and type of wood from which it is made, as well as on the width of the board. Larch is more expensive, but its service life and resistance to decay are much longer.

V recent times on sale you can find a cheaper "blockhouse" made of sheet metal or vinyl. You can decorate the walls with such a house. Outwardly, it almost does not differ from natural wood. About operational characteristics It's too early to talk about new material.

A blockhouse is a special type of cladding that imitates:

rounded log;
construction beam;
decorative lining.

Due to its aesthetics and ease of fastening, the blockhouse can be used not only for external cladding at home, but also inside buildings. A similar solution looks quite natural if the same material is used. This allows you to maintain a single style of design (including for wooden log cabins from a typical bar).

Is it necessary to veneer wood-like walls? The following nuances can be the answer to this:

When assembling a log house from logs or a bar (using the principle of joining "in a paw"), its external and internal surfaces in the presence of cladding in any case will look stricter and more elegant than without it.
This allows you to give the building a traditionally "Russian" look.
And, finally, additional insulation of the building walls and their protection from external climatic influences is provided.

You can decorate the house with a blockhouse yourself, but you should take into account some of the features of this design. When purchasing a cladding, first of all, you should make sure that there are special connecting grooves on the samples you have chosen. The fact is that there is a type of blockhouse, the plates of which are devoid of such grooves, which significantly complicates their installation. As for the conditions for carrying out the work, it must be remembered that fixing the coating can only be done after the final shrinkage of the structure.

Preparatory stage

To fix the boards, a crate is prepared, which is mounted directly on the walls. Basic structure It is made of 30 × 30 mm bars, placed vertically with a step of about 60 cm. Before installing the frame made with ordinary nails, the bars are treated with a composition that protects the wood from fungus and prevents it from rotting.

At the stage of arranging the lathing, it will be necessary to decide whether the insulation, which is usually placed between the blockhouse and the walls, will be laid. Having completed this work, you will not only insulate your home, but also provide it with good sound insulation.

At the end of the frame assembly, it will be possible to proceed to direct installation decorative panels... Regardless of the type of fastening chosen, work is carried out from the bottom up. Do not forget that the blockhouse must be pre-treated with an antiseptic.

Connection methods

Let's consider how to properly fix the boards to the crate. Known methods installation assumes the following options:

the use of a retainer called "cleat", which is inserted into the groove with one part, and with the other part it is fixed on the frame bars with the help of self-tapping screws;
fixing the blockhouse with screws or self-tapping screws;
nailing at an angle of 45 degrees into the groove.

The clamping fastener ensures the wedging of the connecting lock, due to which the necessary strength and reliability of the assembly is achieved decorative coating... The indisputable advantage of this method of fixing is considered to be the hiddenness of the fasteners themselves and the ability to do without self-tapping screws that violate the integrity of the facing material and increase the likelihood of splitting.

The second option for fixing the panels looks a little more complicated and needs additional preparation, made as we sheathe the building with the blockhouse. To implement it, a round recess is made in the board half of its thickness with a diameter equal to the size of the head of the fastening screw. In this case, the screw is completely recessed in the hole, and from above it is closed with a pre-prepared plug, which is subsequently sanded flush with the surface. Not a bad alternative wooden cork is a special paste of the corresponding (wood) color that reliably protects the screw cap from moisture and rust.

Video: instructions for cladding a private house

At the stage of new construction or reconstruction of the operated housing stock, the owners of private houses inevitably face a choice: what to cover the facade with? The choice is huge. Every day new materials appear on the market with different characteristics... Those who set themselves the goal of performing these works on their own are looking for the best option... It may well be siding - a new word in facing technology for the production of materials. And the most famous representative of this product line is the blockhouse. As you guessed it, this material is devoted to the topic: how to sheathe a house with a blockhouse with your own hands

Siding: American "miracle" on domestic facades

Today you can find wooden, vinyl and metal cladding from siding - an elastic, durable and reliable material. Due to the fact that it is lightweight, it does not load the foundation, facing material used to decorate the facades of the walls old building, household and utility rooms.

Most optimal coverage considered vinyl:

it surpasses wood in terms of performance;
it is cheaper than a metal analogue;
resistant to external influence aggressive environment;
unpretentious in maintenance, durable.

Vinyl can also be matched to any exterior color. Juicy saturated colors, thanks to the plasticizers included in the composition, do not fade. Installation work do it yourself is not difficult. The versatility of the cladding lies in the fact that with its help, without additional costs, it is possible to give a spectacular and stylish look to both new and old walls that have lost their respectable appearance.

Blockhouse siding: a new approach to cladding facade works

"Blockhouse" (or blockhouse) can be called a polymer made of acrylic, vinyl materials, metal. There is also coniferous siding, which allows you to create an imitation of natural, voluminous, graceful and massive cylindrical logs on your facade. This is one of the types of siding - rounded on one side and flat on the other blockhouse board. Structurally, each element has air cavities on the seamy side adjacent to the crate. They improve the thermal insulation of the material, relieve stress in it. At the same time, a dwelling in such inexpensive cladding will remain environmentally friendly. The building resembling a log house will become part of the natural landscape of the area.

Installation from boards equipped with grooves on one side and with spikes on the other (reverse locking) distinguishes the "block house" from ordinary siding, allows you to quickly and reliably fasten the elements together, eliminating the ripple effect. The cladding blockhouse can withstand significant loads, its elements are well dried, and the dimensions are unified.

Facing the facade with a blockhouse, made with your own hands

Before sheathe a house with a blockhouse with your own hands, using wood material for the facade, you need to "measure seven times" and calculate everything well so that the boards are fully enough for the cladding.
Measure the outer area of the wall planes, find the common perimeter of all window frames, make calculations, purchase the facing material itself and additions to it.

In a simplified form, the amount of piece material can be calculated as follows: find the total area of all wall structures, from it minus the total area of all doors and windows, divide the result by a value equal to the area of the board. The result obtained with a margin of another 10% (trimming, scrap) will be the desired one.

Leave the boards under a canopy on the street for several days to "acclimatize" to the temperature in which the blockhouse will be used and humidity, but not to let it get wet.
Carefully read the instructions, without deviating from the technology, perform the work.
Make the walls look good. Dry the surface. Prime with waterproof, fireproof and antibacterial solution. Treat log surfaces with linseed oil.
Cover up brick or concrete masonry with a waterproofing film or apply a water-repellent impregnation. This must be done before installing the lathing frame.

When we sheathe a house with siding with our own hands, we first determine whether it is necessary to insulate the room. If planned, heat-insulating mineral wool or foam is placed between the wall and the crate. The insulation is covered with a wind barrier, overlapping, with the edges of the strips overlapping one another by 10 cm. This is the name of a protective membrane that works in one direction. By releasing the generated steam from inside the room, it does not absorb moisture from the surrounding air, leaving the insulator always dry.

The frame for fastening the facing elements is made with a step of 0.5 m and is installed in a vertical plane on the surface to be treated. In this case, the guides should be clearly oriented in level, and the boards themselves should be mounted horizontally.
Fastening is done by fixing the spike in the groove. Self-tapping screws can be used for these purposes. Then you still need to drill holes for them no closer than 0.45 m from one another, and after completing the work, cover the caps with sealed water-repellent glue.
Taking into account the expansion expansion that a vinyl blockhouse undergoes when the air temperature changes, a gap of 0.1 m should be provided between the panels.
Hard-to-machine places in the corners, where it is difficult to fit, are leveled by clapboard or a neat wooden batten.
Particular attention is paid to the top of the wall. Last panel adjusts to the top visor and trims. Installation flaws are covered with a plinth.

Having an idea of how to sheathe a house with a blockhouse with your own hands, you can use metal and vinyl material... Facades of houses with them as cladding are resistant to acid rain, ultraviolet light, oil pollution. The heat-resistant, durable vinyl material has proven itself in hot climates as well as northern regions... It remains to decide on the color. The palette of colors allows you to choose a design to your liking, which will serve for half a century without losing its qualities.

What is "good" and what is "bad": the pros and cons of a blockhouse

If you decide to sheathe your house with siding with your own hands and have chosen a blockhouse for this, you need to understand what to expect from such cladding. it universal material for every taste: a variety of colors, textures of the top layer allows you to exclusive design... In case of an accidental impact, exposure to gusts of wind, ingress of aggressive or oily substances on the facade, the integrity of the upper layer is not violated. In the event of a dent or scratch, the damaged area is painted over and sanded.

If difficult, use in wall decoration natural wood a blockhouse made of various tree species can be a profitable, cheaper alternative without compromising quality. When cladding, soundproofing, heat-saving characteristics are automatically improved.

By the way: "block house" cladding requires periodic maintenance associated with painting the top layer or opening it with varnish. This is perhaps the only drawback in its characteristics.

Important "little things" that affect the result of work

If we sheathe the house with siding with our own hands and do not know that it is necessary to install the boards with the spike up, and with the groove, on the contrary, down, then the work can be ruined "in the bud." In the "inverted" case, water can get into the groove recess, dust can settle, which will ultimately lead to damage to the panel. In this regard, for home master there are also a number of such useful little things for familiarization:

If it is necessary to insulate the house, then the material and thickness of the walls, as well as the facing beams, between which I lay the insulation, are taken into account. The lattice elements of the frame must have the same thickness as the insulation layer.
In addition to the mandatory expansion gaps between the laying elements, gaps should be left for free air circulation between the cladding and the ceiling.
Blockhouse boards have different geometric parameters. Therefore, they need to be fastened with those hardware that are suitable for the length, thickness and weight of the tiles. Planks are divided into those in which the second size (width) does not exceed 0.15 m, the so-called narrow. Others (wide) with a width exceeding 0.15m. Their cost depends on the type wood material, sizes, and hence the quality of the cladding. But is it worth saving on this?
Batches of material with the same dimensions, but made by different manufacturers, can have significant differences. Therefore, when purchasing, you need to immediately buy the full volume of the "running", often used size. The outdoor blockhouse must be wide, at least 150 mm.

Choose nails to resist precipitation (if the board is thin). Self-tapping screws with a length of 25-35 mm are used with a board thickness exceeding 21 mm, with an anti-corrosion layer and a rubberized head. In this case, firstly, a trace of rust will not be visible on the front side of the panel; secondly, the protection will protect the hardware fasteners from destruction.
To calculate the required number of nails (self-tapping screws), it is assumed that the fixing is 1 sq. M. boards are made with two hardware.
You can arrange the material during installation in any way. Texture and pattern imitating wood will look better in a horizontal position. To equip a bath with condensate constantly flowing down the walls, better board lay vertically: water will not accumulate in the expansion gaps, but flow down through them. The percentage of moisture can be reduced by organizing an inflow fresh air(aeration) with back side sheathing.