Leveling plaster ceiling - how to do it right. Leveling the ceiling - how to level the ceiling with plaster, putty and drywall (110 photos) How to level a sloping ceiling
In this article, we will consider a method for leveling the ceiling with plaster and gypsum mixtures. It is optimal for old apartments with low and uneven ceilings, as it practically does not “remove” heights in comparison with suspension systems.
Foundation preparation
Preparing the base is perhaps the dirtiest and dustiest part of the job when leveling the ceiling with plaster or gypsum mixes. Where to start work, you ask, and we will answer you - first of all, you need to completely empty the premises. If it is impossible to do this, cover all things with plastic wrap and seal them tightly with adhesive tape, because dust and debris cannot be avoided in any way.
To start, we need:
- Sharp spatula;
- Bucket;
- Washcloth;
- Respirator.
So, let's start repairing our ceiling:
Removing old paint
- First, no matter how silly it may sound, it is worth starting with destruction. Namely, to remove traces of the last repairs accumulated over the years (read). Remove all layers of whitewash, water-based and other types of paint from the ceiling with a spatula. To do this, everything just needs to be torn off mechanically.
Tip: Alternatively, you can attach a long handle or stick to the spatula, while you will be able to work with two hands, which will greatly facilitate the task.
- To facilitate the task, you can use the so-called "wet method". First dampen the ceiling with water using a roller, brush or spray bottle. Let it soak well and peel it off without waiting for it to dry.
Tip: When peeling off layers of whitewash and plaster, the spatula should be sharp, so it is recommended to sharpen it from time to time.
There are several methods proven over the years that can greatly facilitate our task.:
- Hot water can be used to soften old whitewash.
- Water-based paint will be much easier to remove using an aqueous solution of iodine. To do this, dissolve one vial per bucket (about 10 liters) and saturate the ceiling with this mixture using a roller or brush.
- Paints such as enamels or water-dispersion paints are not washed off with water. They have to be removed only mechanically (read on). You can also make your work easier by using a “grinder” or a drill with a wire nozzle, however, while the amount of dust increases to impossibility.
There are many products on the market for washing off such paints. They are applied to the surface and after 15-20 minutes are removed with a spatula along with the paint.
Removing plaster
- The next step is to check the plaster for integrity. All places where the plaster layer staggers or falls off must be removed with a spatula to the ground. Particular attention should be paid to the seams between the panels and tap them with a hammer for reliability.. Indeed, over time, all houses shrink, their panel ceiling “walks” a little and shifts, as a result of which the mortar at the joints begins to fall off. Tap the seams between the floor panels and, if necessary, remove the mortar
Sealing of interpanel seams
- Now you can proceed directly to the repair of the ceiling. The first step before leveling the ceiling is to seal the seams between the panels.
It's done like this:
- The seam between the panels is filled with mounting foam and left until completely solidified.
- All seams should be treated with a primer for high-quality adhesion of the solution to the concrete surface of the panels.
- Seal the seam between the panels with a "Rotband".
- A sickle mesh is glued to the "Rotband".
- Level the putty at the level of the panels and smooth it. Method for sealing interpanel seams (rusts)
It should be noted that the use of sickle for large and uneven seams does not exclude the appearance of cracks in the future (see). In this case, it would be better to use a plaster fiberglass mesh, gluing it in layers.
Getting ready to level up
- Now we need to measure the horizontal of the ceiling and set the beacons. But if you're not worried about how horizontal your ceiling is, and you just want to eliminate the differences between the panels, you can skip this step. Without the installation of beacons (when leveling only on a plane), the layer thickness is significantly reduced, which means that less materials will be consumed. True, most people, for some reason of their own, or because of pedantry, cannot come to terms with the idea that their ceiling will be sloping.
In this case, there are several options:
- With a large deviation from the horizontal, only suspended or stretch ceilings can save.
- If the difference is within 5 centimeters, you can use plaster by installing beacons.
Before installing beacons, it is required to determine the lowest point of the ceiling:
- Using a tape measure, measure the distance from floor to ceiling at all corners of the room. The smallest distance will be the lowest point of the ceiling.
- Using a laser level or hydro level, it is necessary to mark the height of this point along the perimeter of the room. It will be easier to do this if you put marks only in the corners and use a chopping cord. To do this, stretch the cord between the marks and, slightly pulling it away from the wall, release it - you get a clear and even line.
- Every 60-80 centimeters, screw self-tapping screws into a line on two opposite walls. Stretch the construction line through the room and, pulling it, tie it to the caps of the self-tapping screws. Such a landmark will greatly simplify the task of installing beacons for us.
- Next, we glue the profile of the lighthouse to the ceiling using the Fugenfüller or Rotband putty using the dot method in increments of 30 centimeters. This refers to the application of dots of putty on the ceiling and gluing the profile by light pressing. All beacons must be aligned along a line stretched perpendicularly.
- The last thing that preparation for applying plaster layers requires is cleaning from the putty protruding beyond the lighthouses and priming the entire ceiling.
Leveling with mixtures
- When the base is ready, you can proceed directly to the application of leveling layers of putty.
They have their own characteristics in the work, which must be mentioned.:
- When mixing putty, do not make a portion more than you can use in 20-25 minutes.
- After the putty is mixed and stood for several minutes, do not add water or dry mix to it. This has a very negative effect on the quality of its structure.
- Do not dry the ceiling in a draft.
- The layer applied at one time should not exceed the allowable value (it is indicated on the bag).
The mixture after kneading is applied to the ceiling with a small spatula and slightly leveled.
Tip: Before applying each layer, it is very important to allow the previous one to dry completely. After all, if the technology is violated, all our work may simply fall off over time, despite the price and quality of the putty.
Each layer should be pulled together using the rule for installed beacons.
- After the leveling layer has dried, it must be checked using the rule for the absence of irregularities. To do this, simply run the pressed rule along the surface of the ceiling - it should fit completely. All protrusions are removed with sandpaper, and the pits should be puttied.
Ceiling finish
- The last step will be the sticker of the grid at the joints of the panels and the finishing putty:
- When the leveling layer is ready, it must be treated with a primer.
- Before finishing putty on the ceiling, it is worth sticking fiberglass at the joints of the panels (rusts) to avoid cracks.
- Fiberglass is glued on top of the leveling layer by pressing it into a fresh layer of putty.
- After the putty has dried, carefully remove all the protrusions with a spatula and sand the surface with sandpaper.
- It remains only to apply two more layers of finished finishing putty "Acryl-Putz" or "Shitrok". You can see the process in more detail in the photo below.
- The final sanding will complete all our dusty work on the ceiling.
Painting
Before painting, clean the room from dust and prime the ceiling. It is not necessary to use special primers for this purpose, just apply the first coat with well-diluted paint. The diluent must be selected only as indicated by the manufacturer on the package.. You should not experiment: if the paint is water-based, then only water can be used when diluting it.
Tip: The painted ceiling must not be dried in a draft, as the top layer becomes crusted, while the bottom remains wet and the plastic properties of the coating are destroyed.
We hope that by reading this article, you have learned how to properly level the ceiling. Now do-it-yourself ceiling repair at home will not be any problem.
Repair of ceilings in an apartment or a private house is the first stage of finishing work. In most cases, a preliminary leveling of the surfaces is required, and then the application of a decorative layer: paint, structural or textured plaster, wallpaper, and so on. Draft work can be carried out using different materials.
Different types of this material are used for different purposes. Gypsum types are more suitable for topcoats. To level the rough layer, a mortar based on cement or lime is ideal. starts with surface preparation.
Surface preparation
The first step is to remove the old coating, if any. After that, you need to remove all oil stains, paint residues, etc. with a solvent. Next, you need to remove all fasteners, as they can subsequently rust under the coating. If reinforcement sticks out of the ceiling, it must be cut off as much as possible with a grinder and treated with an anti-corrosion compound.
After that, it is necessary to grind the coating with a machine or sandpaper, remove the resulting dust with a vacuum cleaner or simply brush it off the ceiling. Then, using a roller or brush, you need to apply a primer with an antiseptic effect. After 4 hours, the surface should be coated with a deep penetration primer. This is done to improve the adhesion of the ceiling with the plaster composition.
Careful preparation is the key to success at the finish line
The technology for mounting tension structures is simple, but this work requires experience, so it’s better for a home master not to take it on.
For installation you will need:
- Building hair dryer with a gas cylinder.
- Spatula, drill, screwdriver.
- Level, tape measure, square.
- PVC film and special baguettes for installation.
Canvas installation
The first step is to mount the baguette. To do this, you need to drill holes with a drill and fix the products on the dowel-screws. Then lay the wiring and equip the attachment points of the lamps. After that, it is necessary to spread the canvas on the floor and alternately fasten each corner with clamps. Turn on the gun and warm up the canvas. It will start to rise. At this time, you need to fill it with a spatula into a baguette. At the very end, ceiling plinths are installed to hide the baguettes.
Ceiling decoration can be performed by various methods, each of which is complex and time consuming. If there is even a slight doubt in your own abilities, it is better to entrust the finishing to specialists so that you do not have to pay twice.
The big problem with low ceiling rooms is that there is no way to hide surface imperfections under the grid. The room immediately becomes oppressive, stuffy and uncomfortable. If so, then you need to look for other methods of restoring the ceiling. We will talk about the alignment of just such ceilings on our own today.
It makes no sense once again to make sure that do-it-yourself ceiling alignment, the video of the process of which we have attached below, should take place using modern materials, namely dry mixes.
As for the tool, we don't need much either:
Methods for leveling a low ceiling
In principle, there are only two ways to put the ceiling in order - dry and wet, as the coveners and very professional construction teams say. The first involves laying tiles on the ceiling. That is, to cover the ceiling with drywall, it will be necessary to give him at least five to seven centimeters of usable volume. We will not always be able to make such an expensive gift, so we will level “wet” - with the help of mixtures and solutions.
Although everything is not so clear here, and the final choice depends on the quality of the surface and on the state of the building as a whole. If the ceiling is a rather pathetic picture with three-centimeter ditches and drops, then, of course, there is no need to talk about plasters in this case. Only suspended leveling or laying drywall can bring the surface to perfection. But if the differences do not exceed 2 cm, then it is quite possible to get by with plasters with putties.
Ceiling Leveling Layers
Putty and plaster are two different materials and two different processes, so the number of layers applied will depend on the quality of the original surface. And it will be possible to find out only when we prepare the ceiling for alignment. This can be done with scrapers, spatulas and brushes.
It is best to remove the old layer not dry, but to pre-moisten it, and then leave it for a while in a draft. Then the old layer will swell and peel off easily. Now it can be easily removed with a spatula and without excess dust. When the picture is more or less clear, you can decide on the layers - either lay a layer of plaster, or rough putty, and then do the final leveling of the ceiling.
Preparation, application and leveling of mixtures
All dry mixes are prepared according to the manufacturer's instructions, which are written on the package, but in general terms, the preparation of building mixes is as follows:
The solution, either plaster or putty, is applied with a plastic spatula or trowel on a pre-primed surface. It is leveled mainly with a metal spatula. After applying the plaster, it is grouted and leveled.
If the ceiling is not critically damaged, then it is possible to level, relying on the base surface, although each ceiling can present its own surprises. Be that as it may, small defects are leveled with a thin layer of plaster, and if the differences are quite serious, then you have to mark the ceiling, install level beacons and continue leveling, relying on them already. In this case, a reinforcing mesh is often used - sickle, which is attached to the base surface and strengthens the layer.
After the surface of the plaster is completely dry, the ceiling is first puttied with a rough putty, after which it is ground and only after that the finishing layer of putty is applied, which does not even require additional processing during master laying.
Thus, do-it-yourself ceiling alignment of any complexity takes place, it is enough just to apply some diligence and patience. Impossible work does not happen, and your ceiling will become even, smooth and aesthetic.
Home→Articles→ How to visually level the ceiling - simple tricks without significant costs
How to visually level the ceiling - simple tricks without significant costs
A problematic ceiling can cause a large amount of effort and money. Plastering is an expensive, lengthy and very dirty undertaking.
Wet leveling of ceilings: stages and technology of work
Stretch and suspended ceilings are expensive, stealing precious centimeters of room height. We offer options that allow you to mask flaws with the help of simple design techniques.
Ceiling plinth - a way to hide the uneven joint between the wall and the ceiling
A common defect that negatively affects the perception of the appearance of a room is an uneven junction of walls and ceiling.
This is more often due to the unevenness of the walls, not the ceiling. As long as the wall is not painted or wallpapered, this deficiency may not be very noticeable. But after finishing the surface, such an unevenness will immediately attract attention. Therefore, a classic renovation involves whitewashing the upper strip on the wall so that it is integral with the ceiling.
But what if this defect became noticeable only after the completion of the design work?
In this case, suspended and stretch ceilings will not solve the problem. Moldings will help save the situation. This tricky concept hides a whole range of decorative inserts, the main task of which is to hide defects and separate finishing materials. Moldings also include ceiling plinths, the main function of which is to provide a beautiful transition from wall to ceiling.
The main danger of using a ceiling plinth is its incorrect selection. For low ceilings, it is not recommended to use a molding thicker than 15 cm.
In no case do not use a small plinth, the size of which is 5 cm or less. Such a product not only does not smooth out the defect, but also emphasizes it. Some designers paint both skirting boards - ceiling and floor - in one color. This can only be done if the moldings are up to 10 cm in size. However, painting the decor in white is still considered optimal, which visually helps to increase the height of the ceiling.
False beam - an option to deal with uneven ceilings
With the help of a false beam, you can hide the height difference between the ceiling tiles.
This decorative option is mounted either near the drop, or on it. This technology is mainly used in private housing construction. But in apartment buildings it can also be used.
So that the beam does not look strange and deliberate, several such products are installed.
The beams are painted either in the color of the ceiling or in a contrasting color scheme. Some beams are sewn up in pairs with stretch ceiling elements or drywall. Such striped surfaces look very unusual. In this matter, as always, the measure should be observed. Visually "heavy" ceilings can enhance the effect of cramped space.
Proper lighting is one way to visually level the ceiling.
Classic carob-type chandeliers provided the correct direction of light to the ceiling - from the bottom up.
Such lighting makes the irregularities of the ceiling less noticeable. However, the closer to the ceiling we place the lamp, the more we emphasize the “bumps” on the ceiling.
Therefore, modern ceiling lights pressed against the ceiling can only be chosen for perfectly flat ceilings.
But what to do if carob chandeliers seem old-fashioned to you?
Install wall "spots" directed to the ceiling. And yet - the more diffused light, the better it masks irregularities.
In our company you will find help in solving all the problems that are inevitable during the repair and design of the apartment.
How to level a wooden ceiling with your own hands
How to quickly and effectively level the ceiling with drywall
A possible reason for the delay in repairs may be independent repairs performed by the owners of the premises. In other words, they don't involve external employees, but they do work during their free time, in the evening or at the end of the week.
It's not particularly convenient or very easy, although it's very cost effective and, if you think about it, very reliable.
Not every employee is able to do a good job well and efficiently, unless, of course, he is constantly monitored.
Simply and easily align the ceiling with your own hands
This gives the landowners a lot of problems and "pleasures" that during the next repair they are forced to level such areas (floors, walls, ceiling).
There are many ways to achieve a quality result, but in general they can be based on plaster using various "wet" compositions or final "dry" materials: GCR, plastics, etc.
Variants of rendering with solutions consisting of special components allow you to get a qualitative equation with respect to small errors and height differences.
Alignment of the GCR or plastic hides the significant curvature of the substrate, but may be associated with a noticeable decrease in the height of the space.
Which method is better to choose depends on the condition of the ceiling surfaces of the supporting layers, the requirements for laying and communication systems, temperature and humidity conditions and other factors, among which the characteristics of the wallet are not the last.
Plastering will require skills in working with such necessary tools:
The work begins with preparatory operations: removal of previous finishing layers, removal of the background or washing of the white wash, cleaning and shear holes, cracks and seams between the plates.
In order to strengthen the substrate and to ensure good adhesion of the leveling mortar, the surface must be filled.
Align the ceiling with the profiles
We will tell you how to get rid of this Greek look.
Thanks to! Just by disassembling the old drywall, this is how it will turn out. Do I understand correctly that dowels are used for a concrete slab?
Good afternoon. I would like to know the specifications for wood floors because my room had 4 beams.
How to Level Bonded Timber Wood Floors: An Analysis of 4 Layout Schemes Based on Size Differences
But there are nuances that an independent provider needs to know.
Before starting a scheduled repair, it is necessary to determine how to level the wooden floor with plywood boards in order to avoid unwanted and very expensive processing.
How to create a seamless flat surface with factory-tuned systems, videos will appear in great detail.
The true end of ceilings with wood
The material has excellent technical characteristics and supports natural ventilation in the room.
Beautiful and practical
Among the various options, we will consider a model for each private house.
All types of wooden ceilings are easily covered with modern underlayment, so the job will not be as difficult as an inexperienced builder.
Wrap wood frame
When placing plastic cladding or MDF panels, the order of production changes slightly.
The first plates are installed along the perimeter of the room, then the frames are installed, and then the panels are alternately installed, adjusted and finally fixed.
At the same time, fastening the substrate with screws or clips is used when using an industrial stapler.
Level the ceiling with plaster: we use modern materials
But in such cases, the thickness of the plaster will be such that it is only a matter of time before it falls (see Fig.
How to level the ceiling with your own hands - technologies for home craftsmen
including wooden ceilings).
With a wooden ceiling, the panels are covered with the simplest solution without a single minus.
If there is a noticeable (more infamous 3-5 cm) difference in height overhead - a suspended ceiling.
How to level a laminate floor
It should be smooth and stable.
Only in this case the material will last a long time. In this article, we will tell you how to fold laminate under your own pressure (wood floors, concrete floors) yourself.
Very often in our apartments and houses there are concrete floors. These include any coatings made using cement. It can be concrete, reinforced concrete or cement screed sand. In any case, such soil is rarely the same and therefore requires special work.
Concrete floors must be carried out in several stages.
Wooden ceilings - correct installation
For more details on wood ceiling design, see our source (see Wood ceiling design: design options).
Gone are the days when the panel simply pressed the dial.
Now there are a lot of finishing materials. Under the tree you can install a stretch ceiling and there is an option to buy and install wood panels which can be the most practical in this version.
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Home / Some tips / Professionals recommend / Using a level when leveling the ceiling
Using a level to level the ceiling
For those who independently engaged in the repair of their apartment, one of the most time-consuming, time-consuming and costly types of work is leveling the ceiling.
Here, the laws of physics themselves work against the one who is engaged in such work - unlike walls, all those “wet” materials (for example, plaster mortar) that were applied to the ceiling all the time strive to fall from there on the head of an unlucky finisher.
There are other nuances - an uncomfortable posture in which you have to work and the danger of falling from a height.
In fact, the alignment of ceilings is aerobatics in decoration. To do this job well, you need to have the skill and practice it often.
The degree of complexity of the upcoming work depends on the type of house. If for those who live in panel houses, the situation with leveling the ceilings does not seem to be a big problem, then in brick houses, especially the old “Stalinist” buildings, the same work will be incomparably more difficult to do.
The fact is that in prefabricated houses the ceiling is a concrete slab, which needs to be leveled only in the place where two slabs are joined to each other.
In a brick house, the ceiling in its relief can resemble the Alps, and it will take a lot of effort to turn it into a perfectly flat surface.
As in the case of a panel house, as well as a brick house, the first stage of work is the cleaning of the ceiling from old layers of putty and paint. This is done because if you apply a new, leveling layer to the old one, then the adhesion will be weak and the ceiling will soon “swell”.
After this work is completed, the ceiling is covered with a layer of impregnation, which performs a dual function - to remove dust and "fix" the surface.
Then it is necessary to inspect the ceiling for irregularities, determine the work plan, make all the necessary measurements and, if necessary, make "beacons" - marks that determine the level of application of the solution. Previously, the measurement procedure would have been long and tedious, but with the advent of such a device as an electronic level, it has been greatly simplified.
With such a device, the role of cords and a flexible metal tape is performed by a laser beam - to get the result, it is enough to fix the level on one side and press the button.
As noted by the specialists of the LLC Technologies for Life company, the use of a level, unlike cords and tape measures, allows you to make all the necessary measurements in just a few minutes.
After marking, you can start plastering the ceiling. Having prepared the solution, it is applied to the ceiling with a thin layer so that it has time to dry and does not fall off. For prefabricated houses, as a rule, plaster is applied only if the plates on the ceiling are joined unevenly and this place needs to be leveled.
If, after measuring, it turned out that the unevenness of the ceiling cannot be called egregious, then gypsum putty can be used instead of plaster, which is much more convenient to work with.
After the plaster or gypsum putty applied to the ceiling has dried, it is necessary to further level it with an oil-adhesive or acrylic putty.
After applying the last, finishing layer of putty, the ceiling is sanded. Next, the dust generated as a result of this process is removed.
This is the last stage of work: at the end of it, the ceiling is ready for painting.
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Denis Sedachev
Help, we bought an apartment and need to make repairs, where to start, how to finish the flows in the rooms, the walls in the bathroom, etc. etc. If the walls allow you to level with a rotband along the lighthouses, putty-painting, pasting Bathroom-sand concrete M300, tiles First of all, a rough cycle, screed, plaster, masonry, etc. for a long time I went from corner to corner to align it under the lighthouse, it’s expensive, the walls are relatively even, but small hollows, cracks, chips, I bought liquid wallpaper for a one-room Khrushchev apartment, it came out at 7500.
Diluted with water
Lilia Glebovskaya
How much will it cost to renovate a 2 bedroom apartment? Current finished this, work 250 t. R, + 2 months time + 300 t. R for material, this is no frills, everything is solid, average price, apartment 54 sq m, working time from 8-00 to 19-00 without emergency work, day off Sunday + stucco ceilings were thrown over ...
"Dvushki" by the footage are different. If you have money at least 10-11 tr. / per m2 on the floor area of the apartment - then you can still start repairs. But this is only for work and materials. Keep (save) money separately for windows and a kitchen set ...
Valery Borovoykh
How to make repairs yourself? And is it worth it to do it yourself? If you don't have a building background, you don't have to start! You have to take matters into your own hands and do it.
What kind of plaster is needed and the cross section of the wire is recognized on Yandex in 20 minutes. You can make repairs yourself, not expensive and very beautiful.
Use liquid wallpaper and the result will please you, I know what I'm talking about, right at home, I did everything alone. I bought in St. Petersburg pr. Obukhov defense, d. 51 lit. To BC Arka
Viktor Samokhvalov
What repairs can you do on your own? Any. The main thing is that you have a desire, and therefore everything will work out for you.
Just to get started, you need to shovel a bunch of articles on the Internet. All I advise you to pay a qualified experienced adviser and do everything yourself, it will be not only cheap, but also pleasant. I alone, without the help of my husband, made a complete cosmetic repair in the apartment: I glued the ceilings and wallpaper, painted pipes and radiators, sanded the parquet and varnished it.
Laid tiles on the walls in the kitchen. And putty, and primed, of course ....
Pavel Dengin
How to align such a ceiling Suspended (stretch) do it and don't worry. It costs like a plastic window. Where the slab is buried, level with drywall, and putty at the same time.
For me, it's better to do stretch ceilings. You don’t need to level anything, they don’t crumble, they don’t turn yellow and it’s much more convenient. I had ceilings installed in Grand Design - http://artceiling.ru I am very pleased!
I put it in the kitchen and rooms ... Stretch the ceiling and forget the price is the same as you spend on plaster, but the grades "0" will come in an hour to stretch!
Ludmila Belozertseva
How and how to make repairs if you bought bare walls where to start in more detail please thank you Install partitions or internal walls: plaster or grind ceilings; plaster or grind walls; paint ceilings, if you don’t make hemming or stretch ones; make a base on the floor; paint…
In this case, we first put a good front door, otherwise all the materials will be stolen) and installed a toilet. Then they ditched the walls for sockets and switches, made all the finishing of the bathroom and installed a bathtub,
Valentin Tarutin
How to start a bathroom renovation?
Beat everything that moves away from the wall, then prime and level the walls with plaster. And how much to pay it is necessary to know what you want to do in the bathroom. Not enough information. sq. m. of laying tiles varies depending on the region from 300 to 900 rubles .... Our bathroom tile cost 11,000 (depending on what kind of tile, prices are different) + glue, grout, corners 1500, + tiler's work, 7000. Kemerovo region
Roman Lyapin
Help solve the issue of repairing the bathroom. Remove the foam, and instead of painting, it is better to buy plastic panels for imitation tiles. See.
Painting the walls in the bathroom is not modern, sorry, and problematic, like painting the ceilings - and there will be cracks, and it doesn’t look quite right, and it will take time and money. We did this - the walls are made of plastic ...
It was like this in the kitchen, the grandmother from whom we bought an apartment, pasted oilcloth on the walls, there was such a stench and mold. We scraped everything off, leveled it with alinex, not at all with plasterer-painter's hands, then covered it with a primer under the wallpaper ....
Zinaida Shmakova
Kitchen renovation: everything except the floor. How much can it cost in Moscow. 10 sq.m. As for the kitchen, I won’t talk in vain, I don’t know. They made a bathroom + toilet They beat off the old tiles + laid a new one + leveled the walls, ceilings + Painting the ceilings and wiring light bulbs (halogens)
A year ago, Moscow…. It all depends on your requests Job? materials? tile? whitewash? stretch ceiling? Change plumbing?
Oksana Strelkova
The actual repair, you need to find out the procedure, the floor, the ceiling, the walls of the door The floor, the walls (walls, the floor is not so important) the doors, the wallpaper The door frame, the walls, after the ceiling, if the tension, the floor, the door) Repairs are always done from the top - paint first the ceiling, then the wallpaper is glued, then they deal with the floor and doors.
Good afternoon What is not clear to you Usually they do this: - dismantling - electrics - ceiling - walls - floor - doors
Natalya Rodionova
Making a ceiling of aluminum panels in the bathroom!
not when the ceiling is not even for me how to do it right Level it with a special profile. find in search. Aligns such ceilings with a wall corner, which is attached to the wall in terms of level. The panels lie on this corner, are attached to each other on a rail (rail) that is held on suspensions. Such a ceiling is made SUSPENDED: the panels are mounted on suspensions, so you can ignore the irregularities of the ceiling.
Sergey Dubasov
The walls of the bathroom were painted with “bathroom” paint, and after six months they swelled up.
Tell me the options for the walls, except for the tile. The paint needs high-quality and the preparation of the walls for painting also needs high-quality. Primer, 2 coats of putty, sanding, primer, 2 coats of paint, + VARNISH e. You can try facade paint, but it is harmful.
And we are the same tile. Expensive, beautiful, durable. PVC panels. There are a huge number of them, various colors - beautiful, fast, convenient, inexpensive.
Timofey Barmin
Tiles in the bathroom Give advice Ask the master - what work is included in the price?
many masters name the price of the whole work, with the alignment of the walls, the sealing of cracks, and the grouting of the tiles. It’s better to spend money and do as the master says. It’s better to invest once and then admire it than to repaint every year-season, but usually everything related is included in the cost of laying tiles - they won’t charge you extra for mixing the mortar
Yaroslav Chernavin
How can I paint the ceiling in the bathroom, so that it looks at least a little smoother?
I've thought about filling the plastic panels, but nothing. If it's cheap, then paste the wallpaper washing under marble or with stains. Do not paint, make it stretch! Putty or drywall. It’s not clear what you mean under a smoother ceiling with drops, or the paint is streaked (non-painted - what do you paint with? They made plastic for me, it turned out cheap, beautiful, smooth, neat ceiling.
Valeria Sukhorukova
I'm planning a major overhaul.
how long does it take on average? Without knowing the volume of your housing and the degree of wear and tear, it is even approximately difficult to say. Much also depends on the qualifications of the workers. For example, my ex-mother-in-law with a cohabitant made a three-ruble note in a panel house in 2-3 weeks. But they…
Enough Time will depend only on you, on your correct actions. Entrust the repair to professionals
Julia Tusheva
Really IN 2 WEEKS they will make repairs in a new building with a rough dressing ?!
Really. Tajiks do it quickly and inexpensively. Realistically, if with a team of workers and without smoke breaks. Well, here's an example. 1ka 46 sq.m.
We level the ceiling with our own hands
Plaster, wall putty - 300 r m (this work is very cheap) = 30000r, 5-10 days. Rotband, fugen - 5-7 tr. Bay floors in the level - 5000 materials, you can do it yourself. Laminate and tiles (materials) - 30000 r (cheap Wallpaper 7-10 ...
Ivan Samarin
What do you have on the walls in your bathroom? Satisfied? In one bathroom there is marble (and walls and floor in another tile (both walls and floor are beautiful, comfortable, practical, hygienic). Tiles on the floor and walls in all su, and in an apartment in Moscow there are panels, but repairs were made 11 years ago.
To be honest, they quickly lose their appearance and do not differ in strength. We are now doing: half tiles, and half Venetian plaster. And in the second bathroom we also make half the tiles, and half are painted. 1.20 m tiles, the rest is paint. And by the way, this option is very popular now. Speaking of types...
Valentina Zvyagina
Repair in the toilet is better which type of coating to choose?
Tiles are ideal for hygiene and beauty. I am also for tiles. I hate PVC panels Venetian plaster If the volume of the bath allows, then level the walls of the GVL, stick large-sized glazed tiles, process the seams with grouting to match - practical, easy to clean, durable.
Make the ceiling slatted with spotlights - ... From the point of view of hygiene, then 100% tiles
Do-it-yourself ceiling alignment.
Before you do anything with the ceiling, you first need to level it, clean it, and only then proceed to the next stage of work. The problem of an uneven ceiling is faced by most families, whether it is an old apartment or a newly built one. In order to level the ceiling and fix all the defects on it, it is conditionally possible to divide the work into 2 stages: wet and dry work.
Do-it-yourself ceiling leveling: leveling methods, work steps, video
For wet work, a special building mixture is used, which is pre-diluted with water and the ceiling is leveled with plaster and putty.
In dry work, the ceiling is leveled using a plastic panel or drywall.
Each of these types has its advantages and disadvantages, the design of the ceiling, the temperature and humidity of the room should be taken into account. The first step is to prepare the surface, remove old stains, plaster and whitewash the ceiling. It is best to prime the surface and the primer should be chosen strictly according to the indicators of your surface, taking into account the humidity of the room.
The primer will help you get in better contact with the surface of the ceiling.
Then they make a markup by which you can observe the alignment of the ceiling. A water level is used, which consists of two vertical tubes that are connected by a horizontal tube to each other. Marking is best done by two people, one of whom holds the glass tubes, and the other makes marks. Use a ruler to connect the marked marks. In order to level the ceiling efficiently and reliably, it is necessary to allow the primer to dry.
Do not rush, do your work with high quality, then the result will be predictable.
Materials and tools for leveling the ceiling.
Any repair, first of all, begins with the decoration of the premises and requires specialized tools.
In order to level the ceiling, you will need the following tools: various types of spatulas of different sizes, deep dishes so that the solution does not splash on the floor, a special stirrer for mixing the solution, a brush or paint roller designed for applying a primer, construction sanding, necessary for finishing the ceiling.
You will also need to buy a special solution for leveling the ceiling, a primer and water-based paint.
Ceiling leveling.
Having an uneven ceiling can ruin the beauty of your home. If you approach the matter correctly, then you can easily cope with an uneven ceiling, using different methods and methods. One way is to use building mixtures.
It is suitable for those ceilings that are not very uneven and the building mixture can help get rid of minor defects on the ceiling, depressions, cracks.
Another way is with the help of profiles, you will be able to level the ceiling.
To do this, you will have to purchase tools, a screwdriver, a drill, a metal profile, dowels and screws.
You will clean the sagging ceiling, first decide on the boundaries of the ceiling, then make marks on the wall. Use screws to fix the metal profile or dowels, depending on the type of wall.
Fasten the brackets to the beams, this must be done in order to mount the drywall.
It is necessary to remove the remaining electrical appliances, if any, and if necessary, build up new ones and install them in another place. Another of the alignment methods using stretch ceilings, which have a number of advantages over other methods of ceiling alignment. Because there is a time saving, a minimum of garbage, it is possible to hide communications, there is a huge selection of colors, there is protection against leaks from above.
How to level the ceiling yourself. (Photo and Video instruction).
Let us consider in more detail all the stages of leveling the ceiling. The first step is to prepare the ceiling for finishing work, you need to remove everything that you see there, old wallpaper, dirt, paint.
It is necessary to carry out a special primer mixture so that the surface is more stable and suitable for further work.
The next step is to install the beacons, how exactly you install them exactly, how even your ceiling will be. Lay out beacons along the entire length, the lowest point on the ceiling will become the place where you will install them, applying small plaster marks.
Having finished with the beacons, start plastering using the following technology, which we will now offer you.
Prepare a mortar consisting of cement, gypsum or limestone. Apply in small layers, leaving a break between applications for about half an hour, without waiting until it is completely dry. Remove gradually all the lighthouses, applying a primer layer, lay the plaster evenly so that after application it is not so noticeable.
The last step will be the application of another layer, on which you level it all over the ceiling, making a smooth surface. So, applying different methods, depending on the type of construction of your ceiling, you can achieve amazing results.
Your ceiling will look perfectly even and it will please you that you did it on your own, without resorting to outside help. Using all the tools at work, applying all the subtleties and knowledge, you managed to achieve what you planned before the ceiling alignment and the result will be excellent.
Some people, when making repairs, for some reason align either only the walls or the walls and the floor, without doing this procedure with the ceiling. Either this is done in order to save money on repairs, or because few people pay attention to the ceiling, but, nevertheless, if you decide to make a major overhaul in the apartment, then leveling the ceiling is an integral part of it. In this article, we would like to talk about how to level the ceiling, as well as tell you which one is best to use in a given situation.
How to level the ceiling
Before leveling the ceiling, you need to decide in what way and with what material you will do it. To begin with, you must imagine the design and interior of the room after the repair, as well as the degree of unevenness of the ceiling. Based on what, and you will need to choose how to level the ceiling.Today, the following methods of leveling ceilings are most often used:
- Leveling with putty
- Plaster leveling
- Plasterboard leveling
- Alignment with a stretch ceiling
How to level the ceiling for painting and wallpapering? In order to produce one of the listed types of decorative ceiling finishes, it is not necessary to level the plane of the ceiling, it is enough to level its surface. As a rule, the surface of the ceiling slab can be leveled with putty, but if the surface of the slab has significant irregularities, especially at their joints, then use plaster to bring its level to zero.
Based on the information provided, choose the type of ceiling alignment that best suits your financial capabilities and the design of the room. Next, we want to briefly talk about how to level the ceiling in each of these ways.
How to level the ceiling in the apartment
How to level the ceiling with puttyNow let's directly consider: how to properly level the ceiling with putty. As we said earlier, it is possible to level the ceiling with putty only if its surface has slight irregularities, since the putty itself must be applied to the surface no thicker than a millimeter layer, otherwise it will start to crack.
Before leveling the surface of the ceiling plate, clean it of old finishing materials: wallpaper or paint, then apply a primer layer. Then, when the primer has dried, we proceed to apply the mixture to the ceiling. Try to immediately smooth out the irregularities that exist on its plane with a spatula.
After you have applied the putty and it has dried, you need to sand the putty surface with a hand sander. This must be done so that the plastered surface is perfectly flat. Then brush off the ceiling from the settled particles of putty. After that, the ceiling surface is ready for applying the finishing material.
How to level the ceiling with plaster
If the plane of the ceiling goes too far to the side or the surface of the plates and the joints between them have significant irregularities, then plaster is used, which can be applied in a layer of 2 cm.
There is a lot of controversy about how much plaster can be applied to a ceiling tile, and we believe that this layer should be no more than 2 centimeters. Why?
To level the wall, plaster manufacturers allow you to apply their mixtures in several layers, almost 10 cm wide, but keep in mind that the plaster is applied to the ceiling and not to the wall, so there is a high degree of probability that it may fall off, while it is good if on floor. With very significant irregularities - build a plasterboard suspended ceiling or stretch.
As for leveling the ceiling with plaster, this procedure is similar to the previous one: the surface of the ceiling slab is cleaned, primed, and then a layer of plaster is applied to it. Then, when the plaster has dried, it is sanded with a hand sander and cleaned with a brush. After that, the ceiling surface is ready for further finishing.
How to level the ceiling with drywall
Now let's look at how to level the ceiling with drywall. In our opinion, this method is the best way to level the ceiling in the apartment. To build a plasterboard ceiling, you will need metal profiles, drywall sheets, hangers, dowels, self-tapping screws, a tape measure and a level.
First you need to measure the level of unevenness of the ceiling to determine how much to indent from the ceiling. Then it is desirable to clean and prime the surface of the ceiling, but you can skip this. Guides are mounted on the side walls, at a distance marked from the ceiling. After that, suspensions are attached to the ceiling in increments of 60 cm wide. The suspension mounting distance must be determined based on the height of the drywall sheets, so that 2 sheets are joined in the center of the profile. Please note that drywall sheets should also be fixed in the center in a “+” shaped way. Profiles, as a rule, are attached transversely to the room on dowels. The profile is inserted into the side rails and fixed to the hangers with self-tapping screws, leveling. After that, the protruding parts of the suspensions are bent up.
The next step in the installation of a suspended ceiling is the fastening of drywall sheets with self-tapping screws, in increments of 5 cm around the perimeter, and as mentioned above in a “+” figurative way. Then the joints of the sheets are primed, and a self-adhesive mesh is glued on them, after which the seams are smeared with a thin layer of putty so that they do not crack later. We apply a layer of putty to the surface of the drywall sheets to prepare the new ceiling for decorative finishing. If you want a multi-level ceiling with curly inserts, then this procedure is somewhat more complicated.
How to level the ceiling with a stretch ceiling
The last way to level the ceiling is a stretch ceiling. We will not dwell in particular detail on the procedure for installing stretch ceilings, because professional installers should deal with this issue.
Stretch ceiling material must be carefully heated so as not to burn. In addition, a heat gun is used to stretch the ceiling, powered by a propane cylinder, which is a source of increased danger. In practice, there are many cases when gas cylinders exploded in houses during the installation of stretch ceilings. For these reasons, it is best to entrust the installation to professionals.
As for the installation procedure in brief, it is as follows: along the perimeter of the room, at a distance of approximately 15 cm, mounting rails are mounted in which the fabric of the stretch ceiling will be fixed. By itself, the stretch fabric is small in size and reaches the desired size when heated. From four corners, the fabric is attached to stretch marks and, in the process of stretching, is fixed into fastening rails, as shown in the photo.
The technologies of the last decades make it possible to create ceiling coverings with any texture features, and sometimes with complex 3d geometry. However, a smooth surface painted in white or delicate tones is still associated with the very concept of “ceiling” and is unlikely to ever disappear from design practice. There are several ways to achieve this result, and all of them allow you to cope with the task without the involvement of specialists. To level the ceiling with your own hands, you need to have not the most expensive tool, a few free days, and most importantly, to know what type of finish is being prepared. And who better to know this than the homeowner?
Peculiarities
There are three effective, relatively inexpensive, and easy-to-implement technologies: putty, plaster, and drywall. To be able to make a choice for a particular case, you need to get acquainted with the distinctive features of each of them.
Putty is a plastic leveling compound. The putty mass consists of small particles and a polymer, thanks to which it literally “glues” to the surface. The putty is very easy to apply. Work with it with spatulas of various widths. Gypsum putty, used for interior decoration, is able to give an even layer with a thickness of 2 to 5 millimeters, this is its main "range".
In some cases, the layer can reach up to 2 cm, but you should not be guided by this as a constant parameter. The so-called starting putty gives a somewhat rough surface. Finishing putty forms a surface as smooth as the human eye can see. After drying, the putty layer can be processed with emery cloth (which, by the way, allows you to correct the mistakes made). The color of the material is white, sometimes grayish.
In wet rooms, cement-based putties are used, since gypsum is afraid of moisture. Putties usually go on sale in the form of dry mixes, but there are also ready-made formulations.
Plaster is used when a much more substantial leveling layer is needed. The usual thickness is 2 cm; with additional reinforcement (strengthening), this value can be increased to 5 cm. Plastering of ceilings with a conventional mortar of cement and sand is not used due to the difficulty of application. Lime-sand mortar by today's standards is also not plastic enough and is rarely used. Now they work with either gypsum plaster or cement plaster. The names should not mislead you: they are distinguished from traditional compounds by polymer additives that provide high plasticity and adhesion (the ability to adhere to the surface).
Plasters are sold as a dry mix in paper or cardboard packaging. Before application, the mixture is mixed with water and stirred. For work, they use the rule, water and ordinary levels, spatulas, trowels and other tools.
It is necessary to understand the difference between gypsum plaster and gypsum putty. Regardless of the same binder, the particle size and composition of each mixture are selected according to the purpose. If you apply putty with a layer of 4-5 cm, it will simply collapse after a while. Therefore, it is necessary to act strictly within the framework specified by the manufacturer.
The device of a plasterboard ceiling involves the creation of a strong frame from special metal profiles, and then sheathing them with plasterboard - plasterboard sheets. In fact, this is a false ceiling of a rigid type, a technology that is fundamentally different from the application of leveling compounds. "Level" here means the ability to create a perfectly flat horizontal surface at any given height. To fasten the profiles to the walls, a puncher (or a drill with an impact mode) is required.
In order for the visual alignment of the ceiling to be successful, buy only high-quality materials for work, then you can level the ceiling yourself.
Advantages and disadvantages
Rarely is it possible to level the ceiling with one putty. As a rule, plaster is also necessary. Therefore, you can evaluate their qualities together. The advantage of the plaster layer is that its thickness is not more than necessary for the leveling itself, that is, 2-3 centimeters. Plaster is relatively inexpensive, durable, and does not form cracks if the technology is followed.
Drywall sheathing technology has a number of advantages:
- the ability to hide any flaws in the base ceiling;
- the presence of an interceiling space in which wires, pipes, air ducts can be placed;
- additional functions of the ceiling: the ability to arrange heat or sound insulation;
- any configuration of the lighting system in the room;
- minimum preparatory work;
- speed of installation;
- the ability to easily create a new, geometrically correct plane;
- lack of "wet" processes (all work is carried out in complete cleanliness);
- the finished GKL coating needs only a thin layer of putty;
- different versions of GKL: for wet rooms and with increased fire resistance;
- creation of decorative solutions from two or more levels.
The main drawback is one, but very significant: the design of profiles and sheets of GK will reduce the height of the room by at least 5 centimeters.
Sometimes there is information about special mastics that can be used to glue HA sheets directly onto a concrete base, but here you need to weigh the possible risks. It would be more correct to assume that there are no options for mounting the GKL directly to the concrete ceiling. The only alternative is possible for owners of flat wooden ceiling surfaces, but even here it is better not to get down to business on your own.
The owner of the premises needs to decide how high the requirements are for the geometry of the plane. Further decisions depend on this.
In terms of magnitude, all deviations from the plane can be divided into two groups:
- irregularities in a small (up to half a meter) area: bumps or depressions, cracks, seams between floor slabs;
- irregularities on a large scale (up to the entire ceiling area), including deviations from the horizon.
Defects of the first group are literally striking; if they are not eliminated, the look will return to them again and again.
Defects of the second group are hardly noticeable, most often we do not know about them. For example, a puttied surface may seem flat, and only if a two-meter or three-meter rule (rail) is applied, a gap of 2-3 centimeters (“pit”) is found, or vice versa, a bulge (“belly”). A separate case is the deviation from the horizontal plane as a whole (different wall heights). One corner of the ceiling and wall (husk) can be 2-3 centimeters higher than the opposite. The eye does not distinguish such a deviation; it is detected with a special tool.
Small flaws can be easily dealt with with putty, in the worst case with a small layer of gypsum plaster. But in order to eliminate irregularities of the second type, special mixtures are needed, a reinforcing (reinforcing) mesh is required, and with a large deviation from the horizon, a suspension structure will have to be made. This means that much more work needs to be done.
How to prepare the surface?
The final decorative coating should be applied to a well-prepared surface.
Most often, the owners initially expect one of the options:
- concrete monolith: irregularities in the concrete itself, uncovered areas of rusty reinforcement, remnants of old putty, plaster, wallpaper, sometimes mold (bathroom) or grease (kitchen);
- ceiling of concrete slabs: everything is the same, plus deep seams and height differences between the slabs (up to 3-4 cm);
- wooden ceiling: boards or shingles.
For plaster and putty, the principle is simple - everything is removed, up to pure concrete:
- The remains of the old putty, emulsion, wallpaper are moistened twice with an interval of one hour, then removed with a spatula.
- Plaster and loosely holding elements are knocked down with a pick or hammer.
- The seams between the plates are embroidered to the maximum depth.
- Oil paint is removed with a grinder with a wire nozzle (cord brush). If there is no tool, a high-quality notch is made with a chisel. Chemical washes must not be used.
- Rust spots are removed with a solution of highly diluted acid.
- Mold and fungus require careful treatment with antiseptics.
- The “penetrated” reinforcement is painted over with oil paint to prevent rust spots on the surface of the finish.
It is worth visiting a household chemicals store: there are special compositions for sale to remove old wallpaper, rust stains, and fatty contaminants. When working, it is necessary to use protective equipment: construction goggles, gloves. For an angle grinder, it would be nice to find a casing with a nozzle for a vacuum cleaner.
For a drywall ceiling, rough cleaning is sufficient: removing crumbling layers, sealing seams and large cracks.
Technologies and methods
Now let's try to imagine how laborious each method is.
Drywall
The installation of a ceiling made of plasterboard sheets (GKL) is not a particularly difficult task, however, it requires careful familiarization with the norms and recommendations at each stage of work.
Guides are nailed along the perimeter of the room at a given height - ud profiles. A grid is drawn on the ceiling, on the lines of which suspensions are attached. Ceiling profiles cd lead at right angles to the guides, and then attached to the hangers. Drywall sheets are screwed to the cd profiles.
If you want the plane of the suspended ceiling to be as close as possible to the real ceiling (this option is desirable if the goal is to keep as much room height as possible), the task of the first marking step is to transfer the level of the lowest point of the ceiling to all walls.
Working under the very ceiling with a water level is inconvenient, so circular markings can be done at the bottom and then moved back up.
This is done in the following sequence:
- find the lowest point of the ceiling, transfer its level to any wall and make a mark;
- from the mark with the help of the level and the rule draw a vertical line down;
- on this line, approximately at the height of the eyes, another mark is made. Measure and record the resulting distance between the lower and upper marks;
- using a water level, transfer the height of the lower mark to all walls of the room. At least on each of the two sides of the corners between the walls there should be a mark;
- from each received mark, measure vertically upwards the distance that was recorded;
- according to the marks found, a line around the perimeter is beaten off with a coloring construction cord.
Of course, having a laser level, it would be possible not to do all this, but only builders have such a special tool.
When the level of the lowest point of the ceiling is transferred to all walls, ud profile guides are attached at this level around the entire perimeter. Their upper side is set at the level of the broken line. To fix the ud-profile, holes are drilled in them with a perforator in increments of 45-50 cm and dowel-nails are driven in.
The length of the ceiling cd-profiles must be equal to the width of the room(or length, if they go along), minus about 5 mm. They cut the profile with a grinder, metal shears or a hacksaw. Finished cd-profiles lead into guides on two opposite walls, set at a right angle and fastened with self-tapping screws (or, colloquially, "fleas"). Ceiling profiles are placed strictly at equal distances - either 60 or 40 centimeters. In this case, the joints of drywall sheets will fall on the profile.
At this stage, a frame was obtained from ceiling profiles parallel to each other. Now, over each profile, with a step of 50-60 centimeters, mounting plates-suspensions (U-shaped brackets) are screwed or nailed to the ceiling base. They will give the entire structure rigidity and the ability to hold the total weight of the GK sheets.
Before attaching cd profiles to hangers, they must be aligned strictly in one plane. This task is solved quite simply: in the middle of the room, a strong silk thread is pulled across the profiles and attached to the ud-guides. The profile is above the thread; it is raised just enough to form a millimeter gap, and then it is fixed with self-tapping screws to the suspension, first on one side, then on the other. It is necessary to ensure that another profile does not touch the thread at this time and does not knock down the markup.
By the time of installation, drywall sheets should lie in the room for several days. Now it remains to screw them with screws to the finished frame.
In this way, you can also repair a sagging ceiling in a private house or apartment.
plaster
After cleaning the base and sealing the seams, they begin to level with a plaster mixture.
It includes a number of operations:
- Padding. Plastering of concrete ceilings is never done without pre-treatment of the surface. On a clean, dried base, one of the special primers of the Betonkontakt type is applied. This mixture not only performs the functions of deep penetration primers, but also covers the surface with a layer of particles that provide reliable adhesion to the plaster layer. (To the touch, such a rough surface resembles emery).
- Lighthouse device. The lighthouse is a special metal profile with perforation along the edges and a flat edge in the middle. Its length is 3 meters, and the “height” has a step: there are beacons for 8, 10 or more millimeters. The greater the height of the lighthouse, the thicker the plaster layer will be. For the ceiling, it is better to purchase beacons 6 mm high.
Beacons are laid on the level and "freeze" with a solution. When the painter leads the rule along two beacons, the excess solution is cut off and a flat surface remains. Having shown patience when installing beacons, you can then plaster the surface of any area with an accuracy of one to two millimeters.
Lighthouses are installed parallel to each other. Using a construction cord, beat off a line parallel to the wall. The distance to the wall is about 30 cm. Then they are guided by the length of the existing rule: for a two-meter tool, the distance between the beacons can be taken 160-180 cm.
Lighthouses are set using the water level. Hang the entire plane. At the lowest point, a hole is drilled for the dowel and a self-tapping screw is screwed in, leaving 6 mm on the surface. Then they find another point on the marked line, screw in the screw, and, controlling the level, twist it just enough so that the hats of both are on the same level. Then, moving along the line, they screw the third one flush, and so on. 2-3 self-tapping screws are screwed into two meters. At the end of the work, self-tapping screws are installed on all lines, so that all their hats are on the same level. After that, a little plaster solution is applied to the line, a beacon is applied and it is sunk with a rule until it rests on the caps of the self-tapping screws. It should remain in this position until the solution securely grabs it. The accuracy of the installation is rechecked many times, since the success of the whole business depends on it. Installed beacons are left to dry until the next day.
- Throw solution. Professionals believe that it is better to throw the plaster mixture, but for a beginner it is quite suitable to spread it with a spatula. The solution is applied between two beacons, and then they lead the rule along the beacons, removing the excess. Having finished, they do not go to the next lane, but through one. When the solution dries, fill in the remaining strips.
Plastering on beacons allows you to bring out a fairly flat surface at a time. For the next layer, a more liquid solution is prepared, and this time it is leveled in a circular motion with the rules or rubbed with a trowel. After drying, such a surface is ready for finishing puttying or for pasting with thick wallpaper.
- Reinforcement. If a plaster layer thickness of more than 2 cm is required, reinforcement with special meshes (made of fiberglass, plastic, galvanized steel, etc.) is mandatory. When applying the first layer, the mesh is “lapped” to the base, in other cases it is screwed with screws. If the thickness should be 4 or more centimeters, another mesh is laid between the layers.
Putty
To avoid future cracks, the joints between the plates are filled with one of the special elastic compounds at the preparation stage.
Thicker layers are applied with a starting putty. The finishing layer should not exceed 2 mm.
If the putty is done in two layers, a fine-meshed mesh ("cobweb") is rubbed between the layers. You can seal the seams with putty perfectly evenly. The main thing is the absence of dirt in the seams.
- If there is no rule or a good rail, you can use a drywall profile.
- Aluminum beacons can not be removed after plastering, as they are not subject to corrosion.
- It is better to take liquid expensive paints in stores, because you can buy a fake in the markets.
- If you set the beacons not across, but along the slabs, you can achieve a reduction in the consumption of the plaster mixture. But this should be done only if the geometry of the ceiling plane is well clear, otherwise the savings can turn into losses.
- Cement-based plaster mixtures are often cheaper than gypsum. However, it is enough to recalculate taking into account the consumption of material, as it becomes obvious: their price is almost the same. At the same time, gypsum is considered a more environmentally friendly and suitable material for housing.
If the last layer is done with a finishing gypsum putty, this will greatly facilitate the gluing of light-colored wallpapers or painting with white paint.
- To calculate the number of drywall sheets and profiles, it is convenient to make a drawing, noting all the details.
- For marking, it is better to buy a black thread, as it is better visible.
- If the guide ud-profiles in the "Khrushchev" are laid on special gaskets, this adds soundproofing properties to the ceiling covering.
- Acrylic primers cannot be used for GKL, this leads to a violation of the sheet structure.
- Priming compositions with "filler" need to be stirred from time to time so that heavy particles do not remain at the bottom.
It is necessary to cover the curved ceiling quickly in order to obtain a continuous ceiling sheet as a result of the repair.
How to level the ceiling with plaster, see the following video.
