Installation of drywall without a frame on self-tapping screws. Sheathing walls with drywall without a frame

Drywall has recently become one of the most sought-after materials for repair work in apartments. Large in area, even and smooth surfaces of the sheets make it possible to eliminate the curvature of the walls in a short time, to prepare the room for subsequent finishing. In addition, if the plasterboards are attached to the frame structure, then it becomes possible to additionally insulate the ceiling.

But the creation of a frame is not possible in all cases, since such a design significantly “steals” the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe room. Therefore, for owners of city apartments planning repairs, information on how to attach drywall to a wall without profiles is often more useful, so that space loss in already cramped conditions is minimal.

There are several methods of similar fastening drywall. But for any of them, the wall requires some preparation.

Preparatory work

Any work begins with the preparation of a set of necessary tools and the acquisition of the necessary materials.

Materials and tools

A. Of the tools you will need:

Knife for cutting drywall.
Construction level, plumb line, marking cord, tape measure, long ruler or rule, pencil or marker - for preliminary marking and constant monitoring of the verticality of the surface during the installation of sheets.
Rubber and regular hammer.
Spatula or trowel
Container for mixing glue.
Screwdriver, electric drill with mixer nozzle.
Roller with long handle and soft brush.
Bevel Planer

B. Materials for work:

Drywall sheets. Depending on the room, ordinary - GKL, moisture-resistant GKLV can be used, and if the wall near the stove or fireplace is finished, then fire-resistant - GKLO will be required. The number of sheets is calculated by taking into account the area of the walls of the room, subtracting from it the areas of window and door openings, and making a margin of about 15%.

The number of sheets of drywall will help you quickly and accurately calculate the calculator below.

How to attach drywall to a wall without a frame - technologies, materials, features. Recently, drywall has become one of the most sought-after repair materials for houses and apartments. They are even, have a large area and are smooth, which makes it possible to quickly remove the curvature of the walls, as well as prepare the room for further finishing.

In addition, if the sheets are attached to the frame, there will be an additional opportunity to insulate and soundproof the ceiling / walls.

But not in every case it is possible to make a frame, since such a design will “steal” the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe apartment. For this reason, it will be useful for apartment owners who are planning repairs to learn how to finish the walls with drywall without losing usable space in an already cramped room. There are several methods for attaching the GCR, but each of them will require preliminary preparation.

Preparatory work

Each work begins with the fact that you should prepare all the necessary set of tools and buy all the necessary materials.

From the materials you will need:

LGK. Depending on the room in which the material will be used, you can use ordinary sheets, or you can use moisture-resistant ones, and if you plan to finish the wall near the fireplace or stove, then fire-resistant ones. The number of sheets can be calculated if we take into account the area of \u200b\u200bthe walls in the room, taking into account the fact that approximately 15% of it is occupied by doorways and windows.

The amount of material can be easily and simply calculated using an online calculator.

Surface cleaning and repair of defects

In order for the sheets to adhere well to the wall, and in some remaining gaps between them there was no fungus or mold, the surface should be carefully prepared. Do not neglect such events, as the term of use of the finish and the base will depend on them.

If there is an old plaster layer on the wall that has peeled off in places, then its traces should be at least partially (or better completely) removed, especially at the defect site, as this can reduce the adhesion of materials to each other. If there is a thick layer of “fur coat” plaster on the wall, which consists of 2 or more layers that were applied at different time intervals, it is better to remove it completely, since it can begin to lag behind the base at any time, and drywall sheets will begin to fall off with it . But a thin layer of plaster will not be a problem for sheathing drywall walls without a frame.

After the walls are cleaned of the old plaster layer, cracks or even peculiar “shells” can be found on the surface. They should be repaired, as otherwise condensation may form, and this will become a catalyst for the development of mold.
First, widen the cracks, and this is required in order for the material in the embedment to better hold inside. Sinks and extended cracks must be cleaned of sand and plaster particles with a soft brush, and then well treated with a primer.
To fill cracks, it is better to choose a repair compound that is close to the base material, or one that has high adhesion. If the cracks are large enough and cover more than 50% of the surface, you can repair them with mounting foam.
Gaps with a small width can be filled with plastic sealant, which will take the form of a crack both when it narrows and expands.
After the primer dries, all defects can be filled more densely with a repair compound and brought into the general plane of the surface. If protruding protrusions are found on the wall, then they should be knocked down or cleaned off to a general level.
After that, all walls should be primed with a deep penetration antiseptic.

Which primer is best?

The durability of the coating will depend on the quality of the material that will be applied as a base. It is best to choose trusted manufacturers, or those that are very popular, as the company will not produce poor material for short-term gain and ruin its reputation.

This material is applied in 1 or 2 layers, both of which must dry well. The process is carried out with a soft roller, and hard-to-reach places and internal corners should be additionally worked out with a brush. The time for complete drying of the primer is indicated on the bottle or pack, and if it should be followed, since the installation of drywall should only be done on a clean, dry wall.

markup

When the walls are worked out with a primer layer and dry, you can start marking. To do this, ideally, you should use a laser level. If there is none, get by in the usual way - with a building level or plumb line, rule, square and tape measure. It will be easiest to use the first option.

During marking, deformation gaps should be taken into account, which should remain at the junction of the plasterboard with the ceiling and floor. During shrinkage at home, they will not allow the sheets to be damaged on hard surfaces.
The gaps must be between the sheets of material for finishing from 0.3 to 0.5 cm, and the sheet is raised from the floor by 0.8-1 cm. From above, for this, it is necessary to beat off the horizontal control line, and on the floor it will be easier to observe the gaps by placing a piece of plywood of the required thickness under the sheet . Later, when the glue has hardened and the drywall is attached to the wall without a frame, the stands can be removed and the gaps below and above filled with mounting foam.
If the GKL does not fully cover the height of the wall, then you will have to beat off two lines - along the height of the whole sheet and along the upper edge of the wall. Such a section will be closed with a cut cloth from a single fragment of the required size. Such elements are capable of additional solid sheets only from above, but most professionals recommend placing them in a checkerboard pattern, namely alternately.
The corners in the room are not always even, and for this reason, using a plumb line, you can measure and accurately beat off a vertical line along the junction on two walls. It is required in order to complete the installation and fix the first sheet on it, which should be perfectly level. How it is fixed will depend on evenness.

After that, you can proceed to the study of glue for GKL.

What adhesive composition is better?

The installation of plasterboard sheets on the wall without using a frame structure is carried out on different surfaces according to the degree of evenness. For this reason, different adhesive compositions can be used for work. To do this, we divide them into three conditional groups: installation on even walls, on brick walls and on uneven walls.

Adhesive for flat surfaces

Smooth walls include stone plastered and concrete monolithic surfaces. Naturally, they are not always smooth, but usually serious alignment is not required. It may be necessary to set up beacons or gypsum boards or gypsum mixtures if the surface has a slope to one side. Glue drywall onto a corrected or even wall on any composition - it can be a cement / gypsum-based composition, as well as polymer mastic. But the easiest option is to use mounting foam.

If the surface is smooth and even, you can also use glue, which is made in the form of mastic and is sold in special plastic cartridge tubes, and is also squeezed out with a construction gun or syringe. Gypsum or cement-based formulations are sold dry and require dilution with water prior to application. All proportions are indicated on the package. If you use just such a composition, then before installing the canvas, you should sprinkle it a little with some water.

Features of installation work on brick walls

Align the walls with the help of GKL and those walls that are made of bricks. If the masonry is even and of high quality, then installing the GKL on it will not differ much from fixing it on a flat surface. But still on such a wall there are defects in the form of seams between bricks and drops. So, the glue will be unevenly distributed, and the canvas may not be installed securely.

In this case, the preparation of the brick surface is performed as follows:

Determine the vertical wall with a plumb line. If there are differences that are more than 2 cm, a substrate should be made of strips with a width of 10-12 cm. Even strips should be fixed vertically from ceiling to floor or parallel, depending on the location of irregularities. Such trimmings will become figurative beacons in order to fix large canvases.
Occasionally, rectangles are used instead of even stripes, and their size is 10 by 15 cm. They need to be glued to the wall at a distance of 15-25 cm from each other, depending on the need.

Any type of adhesive can be used when leveling a brick wall, but a cement/gypsum-based adhesive is the best and most economical option. If you use polymer mastics or foam, then a lot of such material will be required and this does not guarantee that it will be attached securely.

It should also take into account the material from which the bricks are made in the masonry. If it is red brick or foam concrete, then any type of glue can be used, and for cinder blocks and sand-lime bricks, a special approach will be required, since some compositions should be strengthened. Ready mixes in dry form are universal, but this is not always confirmed in practice, and many pros improve them by adding special components. For example, for 10 kg of cement glue, add 500 ml of PVA and 1 kg of gypsum, and for gypsum glue, add only PVA per 10 kg (the same 500 ml). Whatever you choose, you should fix the drywall with dowels "fungi",

Installation on an uneven surface

In this case, glue, which is sold in the form of a dry mix, will help out, since it will take a lot. It is possible to attach drywall to a wall without a frame, if there are large differences, and this method will be like attaching to a brick wall. Only in certain areas, instead of one layer of the substrate, it will be necessary to glue 2-3. This method is time consuming, as each layer in the substrate must dry before another one is glued onto it.

On a curved wall, ultra-reliable fixation of the canvas to the surface with dowels and dense filling of the space between and the wall, in particular along the edges, is required. If you use substrates, they can be mounted on the wall with foam, and for gluing the main canvas, use an adhesive solution created from two different compositions.

GKL installation without a frame

Here are the techniques for applying different glue to sheets, and they differ from each other.

The most popular material is gypsum-based glue. The composition on cement is also often used, but both options are applied to the canvas according to the same principle.

Before installation, the edges at the junction should be cut at a certain angle, namely, chamfered so that a gap appears that will be filled with putty. But keep in mind that it is not necessary to apply the composition to a sheet of material, but you can do it right on the wall. there is no fundamental difference, but in this case the wall must be prepared with a primer.

Synthetic finish

The second installation method is the use of a synthetic composition, and it can be done in two ways:

Apply mastic or foam to the surface of the GKL.
Fill the space between the installed and leveled sheet and the wall with foam.

The method using mounting foam is more interesting.

Gluing on mounting foam

This option is used when installing the sheet on a wall that does not require alignment. The foam is applied sparingly to the GKL than the glue from the dry mix. It will be enough just to foam the strips around the entire perimeter of the sheet and diagonally. After the composition is applied, the sheet should be glued immediately. Since the foam has good adhesion to any surface, it will quickly set, and after 24 hours the sheet will already be firmly attached to the wall.

Similarly, all materials are attached to the wall and allowed to dry for a day. If a polyurethane mastic has been used, it should be applied to the sheet in frequent stripes and along the entire edge. Inside the sheet, the glue should be applied in different ways, but so that the lines run at a distance of 15 to 20 cm from each other. In this case, when pressing the sheet, the glue will be evenly distributed (provided that the walls are even). Since all mastics dry for a long time and at different times, pay attention to this when buying.

Bonding and filling voids

This method is the most difficult, but gives excellent results when leveling far from the most even surfaces. Note that for this you can use only foam and in large quantities. The consumption depends on how curved the wall is, i.e. what will be the size of the cavity between the GKL and it. To install the frame to the wall without this method, additional materials will be required.

Before filling, adjust the foam dosage to use the material as economically as possible. This should be done in advance, because gluing will be done blindly.

Seam sealing

When everything is finished, you can perform the sealing of the seams. Prime the joints of the sheets, let dry. In places where the chamfer is cut, the primer is applied several times. After that, carefully apply putty with a spatula, and until it dries, stick a sickle or sealing tape and slightly drown it in the composition. When the seams dry, you can proceed to the final finish.

Repair and decoration of any room is not complete without drywall. The material is a layer of gypsum, covered on both sides with cardboard. It is applied to the device of partitions, fine finishing of a surface of walls. With its help, they create complex multi-level suspended ceiling structures, arches of complex configuration, finish niches in the walls and make built-in cabinets with open shelves.

Drywall refers to the universal building and finishing materials that are used in all structural planes of the building. For ceiling work, thinner sheets of drywall are used, 9 mm thick, their size is 1.2 x 2.5 m. Wall sheets 12 mm thick, 1.2 x 3.0 m in size.

For work under normal conditions, drywall of a standard beige color is used, for the installation of moisture-resistant partitions, sheets of green tone are used, and the execution of structures in fire hazardous rooms will require a gray shade of the surface of the material.

Sometimes fastening drywall with a frame is not possible due to the small size of the room, for example, on a balcony, loggia, in utility rooms, during the reconstruction of plumbing units in an apartment. If the frame device “steals” such necessary centimeters, then it is allowed to attach sheets of material directly to the wall.

Features of fastening drywall without a profile

What you need to prepare for work

Tools

Drywall knife, spare blades.
Drywall saw or electric jigsaw.
A strong thread to create a level plane, nails or screws to fix on the wall.
Building level, plumb line, pencil, scraper for cleaning the edges of the sheet.
Drill and whisk for mortar, bucket for kneading.
Spatula, hammer, rubber mallet, pliers, Phillips screwdriver.

Work materials

Sheets of wall drywall.
Dry glue for drywall work. It is allowed to use starting putty with the addition of building gypsum or PVA glue in the amount of 10%.
Water and primer for surface adhesion.
Dowels from 80 to 120 mm in size.
Grid for gluing seams "serpyanka" and glue.

How to fix drywall to a wall without profiles

Surface preparation

If the wall is made of brick or concrete, then the preparatory work includes cleaning the surface from deposits and mortar splashes. Next, the surface is primed with an impregnating composition. Impregnation should be diluted according to the instructions on the package, since each manufacturer makes a different composition of the soil concentration. If it is written that the soil is ready for use, then it is not required to breed it.

With the old plaster on the wall, you need to inspect it and identify weak, lagging places that can be knocked down and repaired with a solution. Then treat with soil.

Drywall should not be fixed to the walls in rooms where the walls are constantly damp, moisture is transferred from an uninsulated foundation or gets from the roof. Frameless fastening is not allowed on walls that are subject to the constant formation of condensate due to non-compliance with the thickness of the walls according to the heat engineering calculation.

Before the drywall is fixed, it is inspected using a level and a plumb line to identify the largest deviations from the vertical and in alignment. If possible, then the convex places are knocked down, and large depressions are reduced by applying a layer of mortar.

All markings with a pencil or chalk are applied to the walls after priming, otherwise the impregnation will blur the marks and everything will have to be repeated again. Sheets of drywall are also covered with soil from the side of attachment to the wall. Sliced beacons from sheet waste are primed on both sides and left to dry.

If necessary, they install electrical wiring, which will be hidden by reinforced sheets from above. If the wire runs on protruding sections of the wall, then a groove is made to drown the wire.

Fastening drywall without beacons on a relatively flat surface

Dilute dry glue with water in a container using a mixer. Stirring by hand is also allowed, but it will require more effort and time. First, water is poured, and then the dry mixture is poured into it.

If there is a need to add PVA glue to the putty mixture, then it is first stirred in water, and then putty is poured. It will not be possible to add polyvinyl acetate glue to the finished mixed putty, as the solution will quickly harden and turn into a stone.

Glue is applied to the edges of the sheet along the entire perimeter in a continuous strip. In the center, cakes are made from the solution at a distance of 0.4 m in a checkerboard pattern. The total area of the adhesive or putty applied to the surface must be more than 1/10 of the sheet area for reliable fastening.

The sheet is installed vertically and pressed over the entire area. It's best to do this with a helper. After that, the level of fixing is checked. If it does not meet expectations, then the material is pressed harder in certain places. To this end, sufficient solution is applied to the sheet to account for this adjustment. It is possible to remove an already rooted sheet from the wall to lay the mortar, but it is fraught with a violation of its integrity, in other words, it can break when it comes off.

Some installers support the sheet in an adjusted position for about 20 minutes to set the mortar, others grab it in this position with dowels, trying not to disturb the level.

Fastening drywall on a curved wall using the installation of beacons

If the wall is tilted or has a turn in the plane, then to fix the drywall, you need to make a special layer in the largest depressions. First, the curvature of the wall is measured. A sheet of material is attached to the wall and in places of depressions it is drilled through with self-tapping screws, so that they make a mark on the wall. The sheet is removed, and the screws are unscrewed.

A network is made with a strong thread that will show the desired verticality and plane. Further, in places of marks on the wall from self-tapping screws, one or more layers of rectangles from drywall waste are attached with glue. All of them must be pre-primed with impregnation. These overlays are placed so that they touch the thread frame from above.

An adhesive mixture is applied to the sheet, placing it, as in the previous version, around the perimeter and in the middle of the sheet, only special attention is paid to applying the cakes to the places from drilling the self-tapping screws, which will coincide with the lining on the wall.

The sheet is lifted to a vertical position and pressed against the wall, combining all the positions. Fix for setting and move on to the next sheet. The thread frame and lining are made simultaneously on the entire wall, and not on each sheet separately.

After fixing the problem areas with dowels, the seams between the sheets are sealed with putty and sickle.

Installation of drywall without a frame on a wooden wall

To perform this type of work, the use of putty or glue is not required, sheets of material are attached to a wooden surface without gluing with simple wood screws or self-tapping screws made with hidden hats. Places from drilled heads in drywall are sealed with putty.

If there is curvature and unevenness of the wall, then it is leveled with additional wooden linings of different thicknesses. The bulges of the tree are cut with a planer or saw.

Of course, the best option is to fix drywall with a frame, but, having figured out the intricacies, they fix the material directly to the wall, trying to maintain the required level. There are many videos that show the mount without a profile. If you miscalculated, and the curvature still showed through, individual places can be corrected by applying small layers of putty through the putty mesh.

Drywall mounting options without profiles

To date, drywall is rightfully recognized as one of the most popular and sought-after materials. This is due to its affordability and undeniable ease of use. He is often used to level the floors in the house. Today we will talk about how you can attach drywall to walls, and also get acquainted with all the pros and cons of this common finishing material.

What it is?

Before embarking on the study of such a finishing material as drywall, it is worthwhile to figure out what it is.

Drywall is a finishing material that consists of two layers of cardboard with hard gypsum and special fillers inside. It is used for a wide variety of purposes. Sheets with different thicknesses are produced for different jobs. Plasterboard panels can be laid not only on walls, but also on the floor or ceiling. The main thing is to choose materials of a suitable category.

Peculiarities

Today in the stores of building and finishing materials you can find absolutely any product for any repair work. To level the walls, customers are offered high-quality putties, plasters and other practical compounds. However, many people choose “dry” material for such work - drywall.

To date, the problem of uneven walls is familiar to many. It is faced by both owners of private houses and city apartments. However, it is quite possible to make the floors even on your own, without involving a team of finishers.

Uneven floors are bad not only because they look unpresentable, but also because many finishing materials cannot be applied to them. These include tiles, most types of paints and wallpapers. On a base with drops and potholes, such coatings do not hold securely, and they look very sloppy. Many of the finishing materials even emphasize the bumps on the walls.

In such cases, you can not do without a perfectly even and smooth drywall. After its installation, the walls acquire a more aesthetic and neat appearance. In addition, the sheets of this popular material are as simple as possible to process and can be covered with almost any canvas and paint.

Plasterboard sheets are attached to the wall using a special wooden or metal frame. There is also a frameless installation method, which experts consider more difficult.

When choosing one or another installation method, it is worth considering that you need to work with drywall carefully. This is due to its peculiarity, which consists in fragility and the possibility of crumbling. If you accidentally damage the drywall, then it is unlikely that it will be possible to restore its original appearance. That is why ordinary drywall is not suitable for the manufacture of, for example, arched structures, since it will simply break with slight bending.

Another distinctive quality of drywall is its multitasking. It is used not only to level different bases, but also to make interesting multi-level ceilings, shelving with shelves, niches and cabinets. This once again confirms the unpretentiousness of this material and the ease of working with it.

Pros and cons

Like any other finishing material, drywall has advantages and disadvantages that you should be aware of if you decide to install it on the walls in your home.

First, let's get acquainted with the list of positive qualities of drywall sheets:

They are distinguished by a flat and smooth surface, because of which they are chosen for leveling various bases.
The advantage of drywall is its thermal conductivity. In a room where the walls are sheathed with this material, it will always be warm and cozy.
Drywall is recognized as an environmentally friendly material. It does not contain dangerous and harmful substances, so it can be safely used even in the decoration of children's rooms.
GKL sheets are fireproof and do not support combustion.

Another significant advantage of drywall is its vapor permeability. Due to this quality, such material is not susceptible to the formation of mold and fungus.
Often, consumers buy drywall, as it has an affordable price, and is used for a variety of purposes.
Plasterboard walls can be supplemented with various heaters (more often foam and mineral wool are preferred).
Working with drywall is quite simple. You do not need to buy expensive tools for this.

Using this finishing material, you can realize any bold design ideas. That is why drywall is used by many designers in their designs.
Drywall does not require expensive and regular maintenance.
GLA does not emit an unpleasant chemical odor.
It is seamlessly processed. To do this, you can use almost any material, from ordinary paper wallpaper to tiles.

Plasterboard sheets can be installed in any room. It can be not only a dry living room or bedroom, but also a bathroom or kitchen. Of course, for the latter it is necessary to select moisture-resistant canvases.
Thanks to gypsum sheets, you can hide unattractive communications and wires in the room.
With the frame method of fixing drywall, draft walls do not need to be prepared for a long time and scrupulously with the help of special compounds. It is enough to treat them with antiseptic agents to avoid the reproduction of harmful microorganisms.
Many consumers purchase drywall for repair because it can be used immediately after purchase, letting them lie down for 2-3 days without undergoing additional preparation.
To date, the choice of drywall sheets allows you to choose the best option for any conditions.

As you can see, the list of positive qualities of drywall is quite impressive.

However, it also has its weaknesses:

Ordinary drywall is not recommended for installation in rooms with a high level of humidity. For such conditions, it is worth choosing exclusively moisture-resistant types of material. However, according to experts, even such drywall in wet conditions begins to lose its properties and deteriorate.
Drywall sheets may begin to crumble, especially under heavy loads. That is why it is not allowed to hang heavy objects such as large clocks, hanging bathroom sinks, lighting fixtures, large paintings and other objects with considerable weight on plaster walls. Otherwise, these things will not stay in place for long, and then just fall off and damage the drywall.

Work with drywall must be very careful not to damage it. Do not bend this material unless it is arched.
Drywall on the frame will "eat up" some space in the room, so this method of installing the material is not suitable for all areas.

How significant are the listed disadvantages - each consumer must decide for himself. But it is worth noting that many problems can be avoided if you choose the right material and strictly follow the instructions when attaching it to the walls.

Materials and tools

If you decide to independently install drywall on partitions in your home, then you should stock up on tools and materials.

From the toolkit you will need:

special knife for cutting drywall sheets;
special glue (for frameless mounting method);
building level, plumb line, special marking cord, tape measure, long ruler (you can take a rule instead), pencil / marker - you will need these tools for marking walls and for competent control of the verticality of surfaces;
regular and rubber hammers;

spatula (you can take a trowel instead);
a separate container for mixing the adhesive composition;
screwdriver;
perforator;

self-tapping screws;
dowel;
screws;
electric drill with mixer attachment;

roller with a long handle;
soft brush;
planer (needed for chamfering);
putty (for applying the finishing layer after all work has been completed).

From the materials you will need:

GKL sheets (regular, moisture-resistant or fire-resistant - it all depends on the room in which the sheets are planned to be installed);
galvanized profile or wooden beam (to form a frame with an appropriate installation method).

Application area

Drywall is a versatile material. It is used in a variety of conditions and seamlessly fixed on various grounds.

You simply cannot do without this material when it comes to a wooden house or a log house. In such conditions, the walls are almost always uneven and require proper alignment. However, it should be borne in mind that wooden houses always shrink and gypsum boards can only be installed in them after this process is completed. Otherwise, the sheets may be damaged under such conditions or deformed.

To install drywall on walls in wooden houses, you must:

provide space for the installation of insulation (unless, of course, you plan to additionally insulate the room);
have free space for laying communication systems.

Aligning the walls in wooden houses is not an easy task. In this case, the best option would be frame mounting. However, some owners first attach sheets of plywood or chipboard to the boards and bars, and then drywall is glued to them.

Drywall can also be attached to walls with a concrete base. For such surfaces, it is not at all necessary to make a complex frame. Drywall can be glued to such bases using special glue. Such adhesives are very common in stores today. For example, the well-known company Knauf offers a high-quality Perlfix composition.

Drywall is often used to level brick walls. Here you can also refer to the usual gluing of the material without making the frame. In such cases, immediately before installation, it is necessary to find out with the help of a level how curved the floors are, after which any dirt, dust and grease spots are removed from the brick. In addition, the brick wall must be absolutely dry, otherwise it will not be possible to achieve sufficient adhesion with drywall even when using high-quality glue.

In case you want to align the walls of foam blocks, then you should turn to the frame installation method. This is due to the softness of such grounds. However, some users turn to frameless installation, but before that, the foam block must be prepared - finished with soil or plaster.

Aerated concrete walls also often require alignment. In such cases, both frame and frameless mounting methods can be used. In the second case, it is necessary to treat aerated concrete bases with a deep penetration primer. Glue in such cases must be selected especially carefully, as in cases with foam block ceilings. Experts recommend using compositions from Knauf and Volma Montazh.

Drywall can make the walls smooth even in adobe houses. Such buildings are full-fledged composites built from clay, earth, straw and sand. Of course, with such building materials, there is no need to talk about perfectly even partitions. For this reason, they simply need leveling sheets such as drywall.

Mounting methods

We have already mentioned above that drywall sheets are attached to the walls by making a frame or in a frameless way. The choice of one or another installation option largely depends on the structure and conditions of the room and, of course, the preferences of the owners.

Go to profile

This option for installing drywall is the most popular. It is quite possible to make it yourself. With this method, gypsum sheets are installed on a pre-prepared frame, consisting of metal profiles fixed along the wall.

It is worth considering some of the nuances of this common installation method:

A heater can be placed between the wall and the profile, if necessary. Most often, consumers choose mineral wool, foam or polystyrene for this. However, we must not forget that the draft walls must be treated with an antiseptic composition before laying the insulating layer.
In the cavity behind the frame, various engineering communications can be hidden. It can be water pipes, radiators or electrical wiring.
Do not forget that in rooms with a high level of humidity it is permissible to use only moisture-resistant drywall. Ordinary sheets in such conditions will not last long.

Mounting drywall sheets on the frame has several advantages:

with such an installation in the room, additional noise and heat insulation is provided;
frame installation allows you to align even ugly curved walls;
before installing the frame and fixing the drywall, the draft partitions do not require preparation (it is enough to walk on them with antiseptics).

Let's take a closer look at the step-by-step instructions for installing drywall on the frame:

First you need to measure the walls and make markings on them for the installation of metal profiles and suspensions.
Marking for guides must begin with the top profile. At the same time, the necessary indent is made from the ceiling, then a line is drawn and transferred to the floor with the help of a plumb line.
Vertical profiles must be placed at a distance of at least 60 cm from each other. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that each drywall sheet rests on three racks.
As for the installation of suspensions, here it is also necessary to maintain a certain distance - 60-80 cm will be quite enough.

After that, you can proceed directly to the installation of the frame. First, along the perimeter, you need to fix the guide profiles. To fasten them to the ceiling and floor, you must use a puncher, dowels and screws.
At the points marked during the measurements, you need to attach the suspensions.
Carriers should be inserted into the guide profiles and fixed with hangers.
Fasten all the details as reliably and tightly as possible, since the durability and strength of the entire structure as a whole will depend on the quality of the frame.

Before installing drywall sheets, it is necessary to strengthen the horizontal guides.
When the frame is ready, you should proceed to install drywall sheets on it. They must be fixed in a vertical position. To do this, you can use special self-tapping screws for metal 25 mm. But they need to be screwed in such a way that the caps are slightly "drowned" in the drywall.
After installing all the sheets, the joints between them must be treated with putty using reinforcing tape.
When the putty is completely dry, the drywall attached to the frame should be completely puttied. After that, the surface of the wall finish will be perfectly even and smooth (without any flaws).

According to experts, this installation technology is simpler. However, it should be borne in mind that such a design will take up part of the area in the room, so in a very small room it is better to use the frameless method, unless, of course, the ceilings allow it.

Profileless structures

The frameless fastening of drywall is also called adhesive, since with it the sheets are fixed on the ceilings with the help of a special adhesive.

When choosing this installation option, you must comply with the following conditions:

on draft floors there should be no fungus or mold;
crumbling areas should also not be;

walls should not be subject to freezing;
they must be protected from moisture and excessive moisture;
from the surface of the walls it is necessary to remove old finishing materials, as well as dust, dirt and any other contaminants.

Frameless drywall fasteners can only be accessed if the curvature of the walls does not exceed 4 cm. Otherwise, it is better to build a profile frame.

Glue plasterboard on the base can be in different ways.

The best option must be selected based on the technical condition of the floors:

The first mounting method is designed for more even surfaces. With it, the fixing of gypsum boards occurs directly on the wall using mounting gypsum glue. It is transferred to the base along the perimeter (longitudinal lines).
If the floors have irregularities on their surface, then drywall is recommended to be glued to them using Perlfix glue. It must be applied in portions along the entire length of the back side of the gypsum sheet (keep a distance of 35 cm between the heaps of glue), as well as along its perimeter.

Now it is worth considering in more detail the instructions for the profileless installation of drywall sheets:

First you need to measure the floors and plan the placement of drywall slabs.
Then you need to correctly prepare the surface of the base. If the wall has a porous structure, then it should be covered with a primer mixture.
Now you need to cut the GKL sheets, as you will need not only whole panels, but also pre-prepared inserts.
To make a straight cut, it is better to use a sharp construction knife. If you are going to make curved cuts, then you should use an electric jigsaw.

Prepare the glue. To do this, you can use modern gypsum mortars, which harden for a long time.
If the glue dries too quickly and you want to extend its drying time, then it is worth adding wallpaper adhesive or good old PVA to the water for dilution.
Now you can start gluing drywall to the walls. Pay attention to the thickness of the adhesive layer. It directly depends on the area of irregularities on the base. If the overlaps are sufficiently even, then the mixture can be applied to it immediately.
To eliminate significant curvature, it is worth putting beacons. They can be built from plasterboard strips with a width of 10 cm. These elements must be glued around the entire perimeter in a vertical position, maintaining a step of 40-50 cm.

The right and left beacons (extreme) should be mounted using a plumb line.
After that, focusing on the mounting line (or thread) stretched between the extreme beacons, you need to install the remaining strips.
Align the beacons with the rule.
Gypsum boards must be pressed using the rule set in the various provisions. Tap the panels with a rubber mallet and correct their position.
When the glue dries, the seams between the plasterboard panels must be finished with putty.

Drywall is a lifeline in matters of wall alignment. Installation of gypsum sheets cannot be called unbearably difficult and energy-intensive.

To get a more aesthetic and reliable design, Consider the following advice and recommendations from professionals:

It is permissible to install gypsum boards in the room only after laying the floor coverings. Also, by the time the floors are leveled in the room, all issues related to laying communications and heating systems should be resolved.
When gluing drywall (with a frameless method), try to avoid cruciform joints. It is better to lay out sheets with an offset.
Pay attention to the width of the gaps between the gypsum sheets for profileless installation. This indicator should be from 5 to 7 mm, the gap from the floor - 7-10 mm, and from the ceiling - 3-5 mm.
In order for the drywall to hold securely on the floors, it is necessary to pay attention to their technical condition. There should be no crumbling and falling apart sections in the walls.

With the frame installation method, it is recommended to create a chamfer on the cut material (it is needed for better sealing of all finishing seams). For this, it is recommended to use a special edge planer.
It is recommended to prepare all tools and materials before starting installation work. This will allow you to work without distractions and without wasting time on unnecessary activities.
Adhesive compositions must be diluted, based on the instructions. It must be printed on the packaging.
Do not over-tighten fasteners on drywall as this can warp the brittle material.
To work with drywall you will need a level. Of course, you can choose the tool that is more convenient for you to work with, but experts advise turning to laser devices.

Pay attention to the temperature regime during installation work. The recommended temperature is +10 degrees. If the room is noticeably cooler, then you should take care of additional heating systems in advance.
Plasterboard sheets are recommended to be installed on the walls not immediately after purchase, but after they lie down in your house for 2-3 days in dry and warm conditions.

One of the methods of rough finishing is the formation of the surface, when drywall is installed on walls without a frame. In the article, we will consider effective technologies that involve the installation of drywall directly on the wall surface, and also designate the list of materials necessary for this.

Frameless GKL installation - what are the pros and cons?

The main way to form a wall structure from plasterboard sheets is their installation on a pre-built frame. This technology is a priority, as it allows you to quickly create an ideal surface, regardless of the quality of the base wall. The space between the profile and the wall is convenient to use for hidden laying of various communications: electrical wires in a protective corrugation, water and heating pipes.

But the frame method of mounting GKL has several disadvantages:

hiding the usable space of the room (the minimum distance from the base surface to the back of the profile is 5 cm, the thickness of the drywall sheet is 12.5-15 mm);
to obtain a rigid structure that is resistant to possible mechanical influences, it is necessary to sheathe the crate in two sheets or significantly compact the step of the supporting elements of the frame;
problems with reliable fastening of heavy hanging furniture;
the complexity of designing the supporting frame, which requires professional skills and an impressive set of tools;
the relative high cost of the process of creating a false wall from gypsum boards.

If you need to level the walls in a small room (bathroom, toilet, corridor), “stealing” up to 7 cm of usable space on the lining of each wall is an unaffordable luxury, especially when there is no hidden laying of complex communications or additional insulation or sound insulation. In this situation, it is more reasonable to create a surface for subsequent finishing by attaching drywall to the wall without profiles. Sheets are attached directly to the wall using adhesive solutions, mounting foam or dowel screws.

Sometimes these materials are used in combination, for example, foam plus dowels, or mounting adhesive plus foam. This does not mean that one way to attach drywall excludes the use of another. In addition to compactness, the frameless method of installing drywall on the wall has several more advantages:

relative ease of installation at its high speed;
lower material costs for a set of installation measures;
the ability to make a solid structure using one-sheet sheathing.

The disadvantage of rough plasterboard walls without a frame and profiles include the impossibility of high-quality installation with a large longitudinal or vertical curvature of the base wall (more than 6 cm within one sheet). Another feature is the high requirements for the GCR itself. Sheets of sheathing material should be minimally deformed. If the slight curvature of drywall sheets does not matter when mounted on a frame to which they are rigidly attracted, then the frameless method involves a floating installation, so it is important to properly store and transport the material, preventing its deformation. GKL bought ahead of time cannot be stored in damp rooms, especially in a standing position, leaning them against the wall. Sheets should be laid out on a flat floor or rack.

How is drywall fixed - glue, foam or dowels?

To attach the GKL to the base surface, several materials are used that are specialized and universal. The first group includes special compounds designed for installing drywall to a wall without profiles. These are dry packaged mixtures on a polymer-cement or gypsum basis. The most popular representative of specialized compositions is gypsum glue Knauf Pearlfix preferred by most professionals. It is packaged dry in bags of 30 kg.

Advantages of this glue:

sufficient time for installation and correction of the sheet position (30-40 min);
high strength and reliability of the wall / plasterboard connection;
high elasticity of the prepared solution, which allows mounting on surfaces with a curvature of up to 3 cm without gluing additional stops;
no need to wait for the glue to dry - immediately after it has set, the plasterboard surface is suitable for subsequent finishing (treatment);
adheres even to materials with increased moisture absorption (wood, porous building materials).

The second most commonly used material is polyurethane foam, which is a universal fixative used not only to fix drywall. Polyurethane foam is more often used to fix small fragments of gypsum boards, when ennobling door and window slopes, or in combination with gypsum glue to fill large voids and improve the reliability of gluing sheets on walls with a large curvature.

Less commonly used polymer adhesives - liquid nails. The use of such glue is justified only in cases of mounting small fragments on a reliable and even base. Liquid nails do not allow you to adjust the position of the sheet relative to the base surface. Dowel screws are sometimes used as auxiliary fasteners. They additionally attract GKL with the main use of the adhesive materials listed above. Instead of dowels, you can take black self-tapping screws of the required length with a base surface made of wood or loose porous building materials (shell rock, aerated concrete, foam blocks).

Sheathing walls with drywall without a frame - pre-installation preparation

The use of glue allows you to create a plasterboard surface that is practically not inferior in quality to that when installing the GKL on the crate. To work, you will need the following tools and materials:

aluminum rule;
bubble level;
thread (fishing line);
a set of spatulas;
drill equipped with a mixer;
container for the preparation of glue;
wide paint brush;
even wall (12.5 mm thick) plasterboard sheets (regular or moisture resistant);
gypsum glue for plasterboard;
primer.

When you have stocked up with everything you need, we proceed to surface preparation. Gypsum adhesive perfectly adheres to any building and finishing materials (various bricks, classic and porous concrete, cement-sand and lime plaster). The main requirement for high-quality adhesion of the adhesive to the base is the absence of dust and many unreliably holding areas. The latter are removed, after which the wall is primed. Before priming, we recommend using a hammer or a perforator to knock down areas of masonry material or plaster (if any) that sharply protrude above the common surface. This will facilitate the work and significantly reduce the consumption of glue.

To prepare the adhesive solution, pour water into a container (plastic bucket) at the rate of 1 liter per 1.6-1.7 kg of dry mix (this is according to the instructions). It is easier to do this: pour water a little more than a third of the bucket, gradually pour the dry mixture into it. When a slide of dry glue appears above the surface of the water, mix with a mixer. If the resulting mass does not leave a recess after the rotary mixer is removed, add the dry mixture. If areas of unwetted solution remain with thorough mixing, and the mixer rotates with a load, add water.

How to attach GKL to gypsum glue - step by step algorithm

Having selected and prepared one of the walls for work, first "probe" its relief and deviation from the vertical with the rule and level, during which a "picture" will be formed, giving an idea of where a larger and where a minimum layer of glue is needed. Then you need to decide on the general direction of the future drywall surface. To do this, it is convenient to pull a thread along the bottom (5-7 cm above the floor) along the wall, which will be a guideline for installing the outer surface of the sheets.

The thread is stretched taking into account the surface relief so that the installed sheet does not rest against the existing protrusions of the base wall.

If the wall is not very curved ("walks" no more than 3 cm within the area of the fixed sheet), installation is carried out without first installing additional supports. In the presence of significant concavities, strips or squares of GKL scraps are pre-glued, which remained after cutting the sheets. If there are none or few, you will have to sacrifice a whole sheet for this, cutting it into the necessary substrates. When the glue that fixes the lining lining the wall hardens, we proceed to gluing whole (or cut to the desired size) sheets.

Gypsum glue is applied to the base surface over the entire area of the installed GKL. Applying mortar to drywall is inconvenient. First, it greatly increases its mass, which complicates its movement. Secondly, by forming slides of glue on the wall, it is easier to control their required size and the degree of protrusion above the common surface. Glue is applied arbitrarily, but evenly and in such a way that the fourth or fifth part of the sheet is glued. In the area of \u200b\u200bthe baseboard and the intended fastening of hanging objects, it is more expedient to make the adhesive pad solid. Now that the adhesive mass is already on the wall, we do the following:

1. We put stops up to 10 mm thick under the GKL installation site on the floor (after the glue has hardened, the linings are pulled out and a deformation gap is formed between the drywall and the floor).
2. We start a sheet tilted up from the wall by a stretched orientation thread and gradually completely lean the drywall against the wall.
3. If the sheet to be installed is even slightly stuck to the adhesive, it will no longer fall, so you can release it and analyze the position and possible actions to correct it.
4. We begin to gradually press the drywall into the glue. First, we expose the bottom along the thread, then, under constant control of the level and the rules, we seat the entire sheet in the intended place. The drywall is moved to the base surface with palm strokes or a rubber mallet.
5. Pressing drywall? it is important not to overdo it. It is problematic to return the plots planted deeper than the laid one. Often for this you have to "tear off" the entire sheet and expose it again.
6. In the same sequence, the next GKL is installed nearby. It is important here to control the formation of a beautiful seam between the sheets and their being in the same plane.

The rest of the walls are also closed, after which further finishing is carried out on the surface, which is no different from that on drywall, which is fixed on a frame made of profiles.

Mounting on polyurethane foam – simple and fast

Polyurethane foam is a universal building adhesive and sealant. Polyurethane material adheres securely to almost all surfaces. This property of building foam is sometimes used for local installation of gypsum boards. How to fasten drywall to a wall without profiles using polyurethane foam?

It is necessary to apply foam on a piece of sheet material cut to size in stripes or pointwise (taking into account leaving space for its expansion) and attach it tightly to the base surface. The desired position of the GKL fragment is regulated by dowel screws or self-tapping screws. They will not allow drywall to move under the pressure of expanding polyurethane. After 2-3 hours, the drywall is securely fixed and ready for subsequent finishing.