How to make a staircase your own. Making wooden stairs, on a metal frame and on concrete marches with your own hands for a private house
A wooden staircase with your own hands is quite simple to make. However, there are a number of nuances on which the convenience and even safety of movement depends. I will tell you about all the intricacies of building a wooden structure so that you do not make mistakes in the process.
All work on the manufacture of stairs can be roughly divided into two main stages:
- Design;
- Assembling the structure.
Design
A staircase is a rather complex structure, so it is simply impossible to make it with high quality without a detailed project, especially for a beginner. The design process can be broken down into three main phases:
Stage 1: defining the type of construction
All existing types of stairs can be roughly divided into two types:
- Screw. The peculiarity of such structures is that they contain only end-to-end steps located around the central pillar. It is advisable to use them if there is a minimum of space in the room.
Keep in mind that such ladders are inconvenient to operate and also quite difficult to manufacture. Therefore, I would not recommend beginners to take on the construction of a spiral staircase;
- Marching. These stairs have straight flights (flights of stairs). They are more comfortable and safer to use. However, keep in mind that mid-flight stairs take up more space in the room.
Marching stairs, in turn, are divided into several subspecies:
- Single-march. Consist of one straight flight of stairs;
- Swivel with winder steps... They can have several flights of stairs, between which there are rotary (run-in steps);
- Swivel with landings. Level platforms are established between the flights of these stairs. Such stairs are more convenient to use, but take up more space in the room;
- "Duck step". The peculiarity of these ladders lies in the paddle-shaped steps, which are installed in pairs in the opposite direction. As a result, one step can be only one foot, hence their name.
Such stairs are less convenient, but they can be very steep, i.e. the tilt angle can exceed 40-45 degrees.
The type of construction should be chosen depending on the conditions in the room and your requirements. If there is not enough space, you can make a "duck step" staircase, which requires a minimum of floor space on the first floor. If pensioners or small children live in the house, it is better to sacrifice space, but make a swing staircase with marching platforms.
Stage 2: calculating the stairs
At this stage, you need to decide on such important parameters of the stairs as:
- Number of treads;
- Riser height;
- The angle of inclination of the stairs;
- March length;
- The area that the staircase will occupy on the first floor.
Any staircase must be comfortable and safe. To do this, when performing calculations, the following rules must be observed:
- The dimensions of the steps. The height cannot be made more than 190 mm and less than 160 mm. The tread width should not be less than 220 mm and more than 330 mm.
Keep in mind that all steps must be of the same height and width, otherwise the staircase will turn out to be traumatic; - The number of steps in a flight of stairs. The most comfortable value is 11-15 steps. If there are more of them, it is advisable to divide the flight of stairs by a platform.
In addition, it is desirable that the march has an odd number of steps, so that the person ends the descent or ascent with the same leg with which he began to move up the stairs; - March width. Must be at least 90-100 mm;
- Railing height. Not less than 90 cm.
Calculation of the number of steps. Before proceeding with the calculation of the stairs, you need to measure the height between the floors, as well as the area allocated for the stairs. For example, the height between floors, i.e. the height of the stairs in our case is 3 m.
Now you can start calculating the number of steps and the height of the risers. These two parameters are interrelated.
To calculate the number of steps, you need to divide the distance between the floor of the first floor and the floor of the second floor by the height of the steps. The latter can be any in the range of 160-190 mm. For example, take a height of 180 mm, in which case the number of steps will turn out to be 300/18 = 16.6 pieces.
Since we need an equal amount, we will correct the height by dividing the total height by the number of steps - 300/17 = 17.6 cm. In fact, the staircase will have 16 steps, since the last step is the floor of the second floor.
Calculation of the width of the tread. There is a formula for calculating a comfortable ladder - a + b = 470 mm, where:
- a - riser height;
- b is the width of the tread.
From this formula, we get the tread width 47-17.6 = 29.4. This size is completely within the permissible range.
Calculation of the length of the march. Now it remains only to calculate the length of the march, i.e. the length of its projection onto the floor. To do this, multiply the tread width by the number of steps - 29.4x17 = 499.8 ~ 5 m.
Since the staircase will turn out to be quite long, it is advisable to make it a turning one, consisting of two flights. In this case, the first flight will have eight steps, including the landing, and the second flight will have nine steps, taking into account the floor of the first floor.
The width of the platform should be equal to the width of the march, i.e. not less than 90-100 cm.
If necessary, you can adjust the parameters of the stairs for the conditions in the room - change the height of the risers and the width of the tread. The main thing is that these parameters remain within the acceptable range.
Calculation of the length of the stringer or bowstring. The calculation of the kosour is carried out according to the Pythagorean theorem - the length of the stairs in the square + the height of the stairs in the square = the length of the kosour in the square.
Stage 3: drawing up a drawing
Now you need to prepare a drawing, according to which you will make the details of the stairs. To do this, first consider the details that include the construction of a staircase made of wood:
- Kosour. Carrying beam on which the steps are laid. As a result, the kosour takes on the entire load when moving up the stairs;
- Bowstring. It is also a load-bearing beam. It differs from the kosour in the absence of cutouts for the steps, as a result of which the treads are connected to the beam with their butt ends.
To attach the treads to the bowstring, recesses are milled in it or bars are attached on which the tread is placed;
- Steps. They consist of two elements - treads (horizontal board), riser (vertical board, which is located under the step). I must say that the construction of a wooden staircase may not have risers, especially if it is based on bowstrings.
What is the best way to make a ladder - on stringers or bowstrings? The design on bowstrings is faster and easier, since there is no need to make cuts under the steps, however, a ladder on kosoura can withstand a large load.
Making stairs
Consider how a do-it-yourself staircase is made of wood. This process can be roughly divided into several stages:
Stage 1: preparation of kosour
The work is done like this:
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Materials. At this stage, prepare boards with a section of 40 x 300 mm. |
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Preparation of beams. Cut the boards 40x300 mm to the length of the stringer according to the design calculations. |
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Kosour markup. Use a construction square for marking. Use it to mark the location of the steps and risers as shown in the photo. Keep in mind that the angle of the tread and kosour should correspond to the angle of inclination. In order not to make a mistake in the calculations, you can do the following:
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Cutting the stringer. Carefully make the cuts with a hacksaw, jigsaw, or other tool. Make all the other stringers in the same way. |
To make the paired stringers exactly the same, use the first stringer as a template - attach it to the board and circle it with a pencil.
Stage 2: assembling the frame
Now we need to make the rest of the stair frame elements and install them. The work is carried out as follows:
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Materials. In addition to kosour for assembly you will need:
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Fastening the stringer to the wall:
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Support post installation:
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Post markings. Mark on the post the place where the second stringer joins. To do this, you can use a laser or water level. |
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Installation of the second stringer:
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Installation of the stringer of the second span. The beam is attached to the post according to the same principle as the stringer of the first span. |
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Assembling the frame of the site:
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This completes the installation of the frame. If your staircase is straight and without a platform, then all the work on assembling the frame comes down to installing two stringers.
Stage 3: staircase sheathing
Ladder sheathing is carried out as follows:
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Materials. At this stage we need:
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Layout of steps and treads:
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Cutting out parts. Use a jigsaw or other tool for these purposes. In addition to treads and risers, you will also need boards to cover the staircase.
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Drilling holes:
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Processing of joints of parts with glue. Use wood glue for this. |
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Installation of steps and risers. Secure the parts with self-tapping screws. |
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Sheathing of the space under the stairs:
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Sheathing of the upper flight:
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Stage 4. installation of handrails
Now you can start installing the railing. It is more expedient to buy balusters and handrails ready-made, since it is difficult to make them beautiful without the appropriate equipment. At the same time, the price for them is small - the cost of curly pine balusters starts on average from 100 rubles per piece.
The process of installing balusters and railings looks like this:
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Materials. To equip the railing you will need:
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Installation of dowels for balusters:
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Installation of balusters. The instruction looks like this:
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Preparation of balusters for the installation of the handrail. Cut the top of the posts at an angle equal to the angle of inclination of the flight of stairs. |
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Fastening the handrails to the outer posts:
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Fastening handrails to intermediate balusters.
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The process of making a wooden staircase is almost complete. Now all that remains is to complete the finishing.
Stage 5: finishing
As a rule, in the process of finishing, wooden stairs with their own hands are varnished, stained or impregnated. This operation is carried out in the following sequence:
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Materials. For finishing you will need:
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Puttying:
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Grinding:
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Dust removal. Vacuum the surface of the stairs or wipe with a damp cloth. |
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Varnishing:
It is advisable to cover a wooden staircase with matte varnish or impregnation. Coated with glossy varnish can be slippery and unsafe to move around. |
As you can see, staircases to the second floor are made quite simply, therefore, to make them, it is enough to have basic skills in working with wood.
Output
We examined the process of making a staircase with all its main nuances and subtleties, and now you can start working on your own. I recommend watching the video in this article. If in the process of work you encounter any difficulties - write comments, and I will be happy to help you.
Without observing the rules and without making safety calculations, a staircase with your own hands will be built, at least unsuccessfully, and will require global alterations and expensive modifications. To exclude unsuccessful attempts, it is better to do everything initially, focusing on building codes.
The simplest solution will be modular - they only need to be assembled from complete parts, strictly following the manufacturer's instructions. Ready-made kits are supplied for the assembly of cruise and screw versions, equipped with a full set of fasteners and structural components.
A spiral modular staircase is assembled according to the principle of a children's designer of their fully prepared constituent elements for installation
Material selection arguments
For the construction of a welded staircase made of metal, the skills of a welder and an inverter apparatus are required. You can learn the basics of welding on your own, but for the construction of a presentable structure, the initial course is not enough. The pouring of a concrete structure is often determined by the operating conditions. Concrete steps are used to equip two, three-story mansions made of bricks, foam blocks, gas silicate panels. In addition, a cold concrete system will still have to be sheathed with wood or veneered with another material. As a result, it turns out that you have to do double work.
Constructing a concrete staircase with timber cladding is financially and labor-intensive as producing two separate structures.
Attention. In two or three-storey cottages, in accordance with fire safety requirements, it is necessary to install concrete or metal staircases, which guarantee evacuation from the upper floors in case of fire.
Those who need a staircase to the attic should prefer wood. The material is lightweight, easy to process, will not push through the overlap.
Advice. For the arrangement of new low-rise wooden buildings, stepped systems made of wood are recommended due to shrinkage. It is difficult to predict how much the ceiling height will decrease, and what the difference will be between a concrete or metal staircase and a ceiling.
Possible mistakes made in the manufacture of a wooden structure will be easier to correct.
The most simple design
For those who want to make a staircase on their own, no one will advise starting with a complex screw type. If the limited dimensions of the room do not allow you to choose a simple, gently sloping option, it is better to purchase a ready-made set of modules or contact the builders.
A gentle "means of interfloor communication" will take up a lot of space, but the ascent and especially the descent along it will be the most comfortable. It is optimal that the angle of inclination does not exceed 37º. An inclination of 45º automatically converts the structure to the category of attachments. You will need to go down it with your back forward. The 40º steepness is also not very comfortable for descending.
A sloping staircase with an angle of inclination of no more than 37 degrees is the most comfortable
If there is a question about building on an area limited in size, preference should be given to a two-marching structure with a landing or with run-in steps.
Attention. Between the straight flights directed towards each other, the distance should be at least 100 mm.
Between the marches going "towards" each other, it is necessary to leave a distance
The steps can be supported by supporting beams-stringers, can be attached to the wall with bolts-bolts, attached to two side bowstrings. Consider an example of construction with stringers.
We construct a ladder with our own hands
Regardless of the presence or absence of experience, any master should start with calculations and design. The project focuses on safety and creating better conditions for relocation.
Design and project requirements
- The structure must support a load exceeding the average weight of a person.
- It must be equipped with fences, the location of which must be taken into account at the stage of project creation.
- Fences are equipped with handrails and balusters, the distance between the balusters standing next to it should be less than the size of the child's head.
Note. To protect the stairs in order to prevent situations that threaten users, it is possible not with balusters, but with a continuous "canvas" made of plexiglass or mesh, if there are small children in the house.
- The height of the structure is calculated according to the finished floors of both floors or according to their estimated elevations.
- According to standards, the sum of the tread width and the corresponding riser height must exceed 50 cm (slight deviations are possible). Recommended height in the range of 14-17 cm, tread width 25-32 cm for full support of the foot.
- The height of the passage is 1.9-2.0 m. The size depends on the height of the users, it is calculated taking into account the height of the tallest family member + 5 cm.
- The comfortable width of an internal staircase is the distance between the wall and the handrail or between two handrails 0.90 - 1.00 m.
The principle of calculating the steps is based on a simple formula
Design is the most critical stage. Mistakes made in the process will turn construction into a waste of time, effort and money. Projects are carried out by analogy, regardless of the selected material, and the rules and calculations are identical.
We will prepare the necessary material
We finally decided that we were building a ladder from lumber. For the manufacture of stringers, a pine board with a width of 40 mm is suitable. Risers, which you can refuse to install, can also be made from conifers. It is optimal if the treads are made of hard wood.
Advice. It is better to buy ready-made steps from glued wood, created like glued beams from bars with different grain directions. They will not deform, dry out, crack.
Let's make the kosoura correctly
According to the projected dimensions of the step, we will draw a pattern. Then we will apply the markings on the boards and use a jigsaw to cut peculiar teeth on it. Those who wanted to know how to build a staircase with their own hands without mistakes and alterations, probably guessed that all elements must be symmetrical. This means that the first sawn beam with teeth will serve as a template for making the second, and if the width of the stairs is 1.20 or 1.50 m, then the third.
You need to start with the manufacture of stringers, for the production of which you need a template with the exact dimensions of the step, after which the teeth are cut out in the beam to install the steps
Installation of step elements
We fasten the steps and risers to the stringers with nails and self-tapping screws. A craftsman who decides not to use ready-made factory components will also need to cut out these elements according to patterns made especially for them.
The tread can be composed of two planks
A structure is considered more reliable, on the supporting beams of which simple triangular or more complex fillets are first installed. For their installation and fastening, dowels and pre-made grooves will be required.
Diagram: how to make a ladder with more reliable curly wooden filly
Install balusters and railings
To install each baluster, we will use an anchor or hairpin. First, according to the markings, we "stick" a hairpin on the glue with its end, which will then penetrate into the kosour through the tread, then we will twist it and screw the baluster onto the free end. In the same way, fence posts are installed, between which balusters are placed. At the end, the posts and balusters are equipped with handrails.
Installing fencing elements
Video information: common mistakes
Before starting work, you should watch videos with a list and description of common mistakes.
The process of building a staircase with your own hands cannot be classified as the simplest, but it is also not a super-difficult task. The main snag in competent design. And then pedantry and accuracy should lead the performer, and everything will certainly work out.
Recently, the construction of a country house is very often not limited to one floor. In order to expand the space, a second is being erected, or it is insulated and brought into a state of the attic suitable for comfortable living. This means that you cannot do without a staircase in the interior of the first floor.
The staircase to the second floor with your own hands may well be assembled from a ready-made kit, which can be purchased from companies that are specialized in the development and manufacture of this interior functional element. In the proposed catalogs, you can choose a ladder that will ideally fit into the environment of both floors, and will be comfortable and safe for all family members to climb and descend.
You can try to build a staircase yourself, but in this case it is necessary to do it, since with an ill-conceived design, an element of the house familiar to everyone may well become a traumatic "simulator".
In addition, you need to decide what role the staircase will play in the interior. It can be completely invisible, and not be a decorative decoration of the room, but can become the center of the composition, around which it will build all the decoration of the room.
Therefore, in order to choose a suitable copy, it is better though would schematically draw the stairs that you wanted would see in your home, but you can find a ready-made version and adapt it for a specific room.
Before choosing a ladder model, you must definitely find out how it works and how to calculate its correct parameters.
The main constituent elements of the stairs
The design of the staircase has many components, some of them are mandatory, while others may not be included in the devices of some types of this structure.
So, a staircase cannot do without steps and supports that support them - these are the main elements of the simplest structures of interfloor stairs.
- The step itself consists of two parts - vertical and horizontal. The first one is called the riser, and the second is the step. The riser is a support for the step, but sometimes they do without it.
- Supports can be of two types:
- a bowstring is a beam that supports the steps from their ends;
- kosour - a beam supporting the steps from below.
- Railing is also an important element of the staircase, although it is not present in all its types. But if there are children or elderly people in the house, then you cannot do without them.
- Balusters are vertically installed supports for handrails, which most often become not only a functional part of a staircase, but also its decorative decoration. This element can be made from different materials and have different shapes.
Since there are different types of stairs, each of them may have the details that are needed specifically for a particular design.
- Rack - this element is used to construct a spiral staircase. Steps of a special shape are fixed on the rack with a certain step, which form a spiral that rises from the first to the second floor.
- Bolts are special bolts, which are also elements supporting the steps; they are fixed in the wall and directly on the steps themselves. They are not used for all, but only for certain types of stairs.
Types of stairs
Having learned what elements the stairs consist of, you need to understand in more detail how each of the types of these structures looks, installed between floors.
Marching staircase
This type of staircase is popular for any type of private house. It consists of one or more straight flights, equipped with evenly spaced steps. It is convenient to climb and descend along it, but the disadvantage of this model is that it requires a lot of space in the room.
The most common are marching stairsIf the staircase consists of several flights, then each of them must have at least 3 ÷ 4 and no more than 15 steps. Failure to comply with this standard may result in uncomfortable climbing stairs. Usually, the number of steps in each march is 8 ÷ 11 pieces, and special platforms are installed between the marches. Their sizes are multiples of the average stride length.
- Marching stairs can be closed and open. The first of them have risers in the design of the steps, and the second are arranged without them. The open version is convenient in cases where the steps are of insufficient width.
- Marching stairs can have steps attached to stringers or bowstrings. For these parts, boards are selected that have a thickness of at least 45 ÷ 50, and even better - even 60 ÷ 70 mm.
- If a straight staircase without turns has more than 8-9 steps, then for strength it is also recommended to divide it with a platform.
- In the case when a staircase is built with a slight turn, it is called a turning one, and sometimes on this site instead of a platform, steps are arranged, which are called winders.
- In addition to the above types, mid-flight stairs can be:
— quarter turn- the angle of which when turning is 90 degrees, and they are arranged mainly at the junction of two walls;
- half-turn - their rotation has an angle of 180 degrees;
- circular patterns - marches form a 360-degree turn in succession.
Staircase construction
The name of these ladders on the bolts comes from the German word "volzen", which means a bolt. So it is a bolted ladder. In fact, it is a fastener in the form of a pin with a thread at its ends. With the help of their steps and fences are fastened together and mounted into the wall. Thanks to these devices, the structure looks light and airy. This is also facilitated by the absence of risers.
In addition, such a model can be stretched over a certain section of the wall, or it can look quite compact. Despite the apparent lightness, the structure is reliable and durable, it can withstand hundreds of kilograms, so ladders on the bolts are becoming more and more popular.
Despite the "airy" appearance, the ladder on the bolts is very reliableNaturally, such a structure cannot be located in the middle of the room, since it must necessarily be attached to the wall, the main condition for installation is its strength of the material from which it was built.
It is quite difficult to calculate the ladder on the bolts on your own, but you can purchase it as a set or make an order to professionals for its manufacture with reference to the specific conditions of the house.
Video: installation of a wooden staircase on the bolts
The installation of this structure is rather complicated, and it is better to entrust it to qualified craftsmen who will be able to assess the possibility of its installation. Therefore, before purchasing a kit, it is best to first consult with specialists.
Spiral interfloor staircase
This design is more difficult to install, but has the advantage of taking up the smallest footprint available, making it ideal for small spaces. In addition, such a staircase can be installed in any convenient place in the room and, if desired, make it the center of the interior composition, since the structure has a rather aesthetic appearance.
Spiral staircase - saves space, but is not always convenient for carrying bulky itemsThey can be of different types, but for a two-story house, a model consisting of a rack and wedge-shaped steps is best suited. For the rack, choose a metal pipe or a wooden support.
- The stand itself is fixed to the ground floor floor and in the interfloor or attic floor.
- The steps are fixed on it with a narrow side and rotated in such a way that the overall structure resembles a spiral.
- Balusters are installed on the wide side of the steps, the upper part of which is fixed in the handrail, repeating the spiral direction of the entire structure.
Video: installation of a spiral staircase
Inconvenient in such a model is the fact that it will be difficult to raise or pull down down some massive piece of furniture. In addition, when choosing such a model for installation, you need to know that the smaller the opening in the interfloor ceiling for it, the steeper and more inconvenient the staircase will be.
It is not difficult to calculate the screw structure. To do this, the area in the room where it will be installed is determined, its center is calculated - this will be the place where the rack will be installed. Further, the distance from the post to the border is measured - this will be the width of the span, i.e. length of steps.
For comfortable walking on such a staircase, the size of the middle of the step should be at least 200 mm, and the widest part should be no more than 400 ÷ 420 mm.
Such a structure can be made and assembled independently, if you have the skills to work with wood, and the ability to calculate the loads on the selected material. However, if you are not confident in your abilities, then it is better to entrust the work to a specialist, since an improperly arranged structure is very traumatic.
Requirements for the construction of stairs
Before starting work, you need to find out the requirements for the construction of the stairs.
Safety is perhaps the most important condition. In order for it to be fully implemented, it is very important to accurately calculate all the parameters:
- the slope angle, the width and height of the steps, the method of fastening the first and last of them are calculated;
- if the staircase is not located between two walls, it is necessary to install the fence, and its height must be at least 800 ÷ 850 mm;
- if there are small children in the house, the balusters supporting the handrail of the fence should not be located further than 100 ÷ 120 mm from each other;
- the width of the steps should be 200 ÷ 300 mm;
- the staircase must withstand rather heavy loads - for residential buildings they are 300 ÷ 350 kg / m²;
- it is impossible for the steps to be slippery - the texture of their outer coating must be thought out;
- the whole structure must be securely and rigidly fixed between floors;
- it is undesirable to install the structure at an ascent angle of more than 45 degrees;
- the width of the spans cannot be made less than 850 mm, the best option is 1000 ÷ 1200 mm;
- the staircase will be less traumatic if it is divided by platforms into two or three parts;
- fasteners for structural elements must be made of high-quality material, so you cannot save on them;
- if wooden parts are processed independently, then you need to bring them to perfect evenness and conformity to the dimensions established by the drawing or templates.
Video: mistakes in the design and construction of stairs
Calculation of the parameters of the stairs and the manufacture of parts
Since for self-production and installation, a marching structure with steps laid on a kosour is the most affordable, as well as convenient and safe to use, it is worth considering it.
The first thing to do is to calculate the location, number and size of steps, as well as the width of the stairway.
Calculation of the parameters of the stairs
The calculation of the structure of the flight staircase is as follows:
- The height of the room and the length of all or part of the wall are taken as a basis - the place that is allotted for the installation of the stairs. Having reduced these values in scale, they draw a right-angled triangle in which the staircase itself will be the hypotenuse, and the lifting height and floor will be the legs.
An angle of 45 degrees is considered ideal for installing a staircase, but it can be changed, depending on the wishes of the owner of the house and on the area of the room.
- The comfortable gait width should be at least 200 mm; therefore, the floor leg, based on its natural length, is divided by this value. The resulting number of steps is marked on the drawing.
- The height of the risers, convenient for movement, should not exceed 100 ÷ 120 mm. To calculate them, you need to divide the total rise height by the selected riser height and also transfer it to the drawing.
- Thus, you can calculate the dimensions of the kosour for laying the steps.
- The width of the staircase will depend on the preference of the occupants and the size of the room.
Video: an example of calculating a mid-flight staircase
Stair parts manufacturing
In order to make the parts correctly, you need to accurately transfer the dimensions from the drawing made to the material, and select high-quality, well-dried wood.
- The most difficult thing is to ideally cut out the stringers exactly, since reliability and strength, as well as the aesthetics of the structure, will depend on this. For these load-bearing elements, a solid board is chosen without cracks and numerous large knots, with a thickness of at least 45 ÷ 50 mm.
- Cloths of steps can have a width of 1.5-2 cm more than the space provided for them on the kosoura, plus the thickness of the risers. The steps should be perfectly even with rounded neat edges, and this is also very important to consider. For them, a board with a thickness of 30 ÷ 35 mm is selected.
- If it was planned to make the staircase closed, with risers, then they must also be done carefully. For these elements, you do not need to take a board of great thickness, since basically all the load will fall on the stringers, and the risers will play a supporting role. A thickness of 15 ÷ 20 mm is enough.
- Balusters and handrails would be better purchased ready-made along with fasteners. If there are children in the house, then, for safety reasons, it is worth installing two balusters on each step. In the case when the children have already grown, then one element supporting the handrail is enough.
Prices for various types of stair elements
Stair elements
Ladder installation
The installation of the stairs is the most crucial moment after the manufacture of all structural elements, and you need to approach it with the maximum responsibility.
- The first are the stringers according to the predetermined marks. On the floor, they are fixed on a support bar fixed in the right place, and in the upper part they are installed in the cut-out gaps in the floor beam. Sometimes, metal supports installed on a beam overlapping the ceiling are used to secure the upper part of the stringers. Anchor bolts act as fasteners for these load-bearing elements.
In order for the parts to be installed perfectly evenly, during the installation process, they are constantly verified according to the plumb line and the building level.
- If risers are provided, then they are screwed on before placing the footsteps.
- Then, on top of the stringers and risers, the step panels are fixed from above with self-tapping screws.
The fastening of the risers and steps takes place in the complex, and goes upwards.
- Then, when the steps are ready, you can proceed to installing the balusters.
On both sides, that is, on the floor of the first floor and at the top of the stairs, support posts are installed, which will become the boundary for the overall structure of the handrail (railing). They will also play a supportive and decorative role.
Balusters can be of different sizes and are made of different materials, therefore they can be attached in different ways. Some of them are simply installed in the drilled holes in the steps and handrails, others are screwed in with self-tapping screws, and the attachment points are closed with decorative plugs.
- , they are covered from above with handrails, which are fixed on the supporting extreme racks. If necessary, an additional support leg can be installed in the middle of the stairs.
- If three or even four racks are installed, then instead of balusters, two or three even boards (strips) fixed parallel to the staircase can serve as a reliable fence.
- When the entire structure is assembled, you can proceed to surface treatment with a grinder and sandpaper. Preparation is carried out before applying protective and decorative paint coatings.
- The first layer that is applied to the tree is antiseptic compounds. They will protect the wood from rotting, mold or mildew, and from domestic insects. After this, the structures are allowed to dry completely.
- Further, the staircase can be varnished in several layers (preferably water-based) with hot wax or paint.
- If it is necessary to darken the wood, it is pre-coated with a stain or other tinting compounds, and then, after drying, a varnish coating is applied on top of them.
After the paint has dried, the ladder will be ready for use.
Photo instruction for creating a staircase made of wood
Step 1 - drawing of the future structureVideo: another interesting option for installing stairs to the second floor
If it is necessary to install it in the house, you need to carefully calculate each step of your work and approach it with all responsibility and accuracy.
A detailed and simple diagram for a standard staircase to the second floor.
Are you planning to build a private house with two floors or more? We recommend that you immediately plan what the staircase will be. And we will help you with this - this material tells in detail about the types for cottages, summer cottages and private houses, design requirements. Also, with the help of diagrams and drawings, we will use an example to tell you how a staircase is calculated and built. The design is quite simple - it cannot be compared with a roof, so the owner, who has only minimal construction skills, can also make it. We will tell you how to make sure that instead of a wooden ladder, you don't get a step-ladder. Having studied the drawings and diagrams, you can make a high-quality design.
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Two types have been used in private homes for centuries, which we will briefly discuss:
- Marching... This option is the simplest in execution, while the design is reliable. If a beginner gets down to business, then a marching wooden staircase will be an excellent solution. Also, the design can be divided into one-march and two-march. Despite the differences between these types, they have the same manufacturing complexity.
- Screw... This work is for professionals, as it requires careful measurements and calculations. One miscalculation can ruin the entire structure, so only a master can do it with his own hands. The main advantage of this design is its compactness, because the design takes up the minimum amount of space in the house. Often, a spiral wooden staircase is the center of the composition of the interior. The only negative is a rather steep climb, which negatively affects safety.
Of course, we will disassemble the marching staircase, although we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the screw options. It is easier to carry out the marching version with your own hands, for which there are drawings. 
Another disadvantage of a spiral staircase is that it will be inconvenient to transfer large items from one floor to another.
Preparation of materials and features of work
Before thinking about building with your own hands, you need to draw up or take ready-made drawings, as well as prepare tools and materials for the stairs, connecting the second floor with the first.
Let's start with the materials for the construction of the structure on the second floor:
- screws;
- thick boards, which later turn into steps;
- bars - the section must be at least 40 millimeters.
It is impossible to complete the work without a drawing; the image below shows in detail what needs to be measured, so that in the end it is possible to calculate the dimensions of the future structure.
It is also worth considering the following dimensions when planning a structure for the second floor from the first:
- angle of inclination of the stairs;
- width;
- the height of the entire structure;
- number of steps.
If you have skills in working with a 3D editor, then you can make a detailed diagram. For example, the project will demonstrate whether a ladder will come out of a ladder. It is also recommended to study the drawings.
Blueprints
The simplest drawing of a marching staircase to the second floor, which the owner can make with his own hands. The drawing shows a fairly large structure, but sometimes such a staircase leads to the second floor. Knowing the distance between floors, you can calculate the number of steps. For example, the height from floor to floor is 290 centimeters, the steps are selected at 20 cm. After simple calculations, 14.5 steps are obtained. It is necessary to round up to 14 or 15. In the first case, the height of each step should be 20.71 cm, and in the second - 19.33 cm.
In the example, integers are used - the height of the stairs to the second floor is 260 cm, each step goes by 20 cm, resulting in 13. As for the dimensions of the flight of stairs, its width should not be less than 70 centimeters. The upward slope can be anything. In the example discussed in this article, the flight of stairs is 1 meter wide.
It is also worth considering the platforms that will be below and above. The dimensions must correspond to the dimensions of the flight of stairs. The ideal shape would be a rectangle or square. 
These are the simplest schemes for making a wooden staircase to the second floor. The main thing is to choose a convenient angle of inclination, so that in the end there is no stepladder.
The most reliable option is a straight staircase. The U-shaped version is suitable for private houses with a large area. A beginner is unlikely to master the L-shaped design.
Choosing an installation method
The design of the future staircase may include:
- Bowstrings... This word refers to beams that support structures on both sides.
- Kosoura... The second option is the beams that hold the steps of the stairs from below.
Mounting
When the steps, platforms and beams are ready, you can proceed to the installation of the stairs with your own hands. In the example, a variant with kosoura is considered. It is necessary to make notes in advance for the place of their installation. On the floor of the first floor, stringers are installed on a support bar. At the point where the staircase goes to the second floor, the supporting elements are placed in the gaps in the floor beam. In some cases, metal supports are used that serve the same purpose. Fastening of stringers is carried out using anchor bolts.
During the installation process, there should always be a building level at hand, you can also determine the position by the body kit so that at the end you do not get a step-ladder. The elements of the wooden structure must be perfectly level. The step panels must be fixed on top of the stringers, it is most convenient to do this with self-tapping screws. 
Are the steps ready? So you can start installing the balusters on the floor. Support posts are mounted at the top and bottom of the structure, limiting the handrails. They are also decorative and supporting elements. 
Now the installation:
- Finished balusters must be covered with handrails (railings), which are mounted on the support posts. If the structure is large, then additional support in the middle of the stairs will not interfere.
- Sometimes 3-4 racks are required. In this case, you should not waste energy on balusters, since even boards will be a more rational solution.
- After completing the assembly, the wood surface must be carefully sanded. You can do this with your own hands or with a power tool.
- Next comes the preparation before painting: all debris and dust are removed, it must dry completely. If necessary, putty is applied after sanding. Of course, for this job you need wood coatings.
- When the preparatory work is completed, you can paint the wood elements. A primer is applied, and then 1-2 layers of paint. After drying, it is necessary to varnish the structure. Alternatively, you can use wood stain.
The result is a comfortable staircase, with which you can comfortably and safely climb to the second floor. If the angle is calculated correctly, there will be no stepladder.
Low-rise construction, when it comes to residential buildings, implies the construction of at least two-level buildings. Therefore, to move to the second floor, an internal staircase is indispensable. The purchase of a ready-made kit, firstly, will be quite expensive (at least 35,000 rubles), and secondly, it must be adapted before installation and to specific premises, or engage in their reconstruction (redevelopment). And this is additional costs and time.
In most cases, it is more advisable to make a staircase to the second floor with your own hands, especially since it will turn out about the same in terms of time. The simplest and most inexpensive option is wood construction. This article will explain in detail all the nuances of choosing lumber, drawing up a drawing of a staircase and the features of its assembly.
With regard to a private house, two are most common - a spiral staircase and a march staircase. The first option is quite difficult, and it is unlikely that it will be possible to implement it with your own hands, without having practical skills and experience in this area. You will have to do specific engineering calculations, which means that you cannot do without the help of a professional at least at this stage of preparation. It is not entirely correct to focus only on the schemes available on the Internet. They do not take into account the specifics of a particular structure, so they will definitely have to be processed, taking into account the peculiarities of its dimensions, layout and a number of other factors. And the installation of a spiral staircase, especially a wooden one, is not a simple process.
For DIY assembly the optimal solution is a marching wooden staircase... Based on the height of the first floor room, there can be one or two spans (rotary structure).
But in details, even completely identical stairs can be very different. And this is easily explained by the fact that making with your own hands implies an element of creativity. Since all private houses differ in many parameters (dimensions, ceiling heights, layout, internal content), then following some single standard is a futile business. By the way, the author has already drawn the attention of the reader to this. Therefore, further - only general recommendations that will help to competently draw up a drawing of a wooden staircase, taking into account all the structural features, and install it in place.
general information
There are several options for the execution of mid-flight stairs. Their main varieties are shown in the figures below. It is not difficult to decide which modification to choose for installation with your own hands, knowing all the features of the house and the premises of the first and second floors.
When describing any product or prefabricated structure, you cannot do without special terminology. The following pictures explain well what the main elements of the staircase are called.
Preparation of materials
- When choosing a wood species, if you focus on a reasonable combination of quality / price, it is recommended to give preference to pine or larch. The latter is even better, since it is less prone to rotting. In addition, as the liquid is absorbed, it only becomes stronger. Since there will certainly be fumes in any living room, it is more than relevant, especially if there is a kitchen in the adjacent room. All other species - cedar, oak and a number of others - hardly belong to the budget options for a wooden staircase.
- The durability of the structure largely depends on the degree of drying of the lumber. If the wood in this regard is not sufficiently processed, then such a ladder will "lead" rather quickly. Drying boards with your own hands is both troublesome and complex. You will need not only a place for their storage, but also knowledge of all the features of the technique. We'll have to ensure the constant temperature, high-quality ventilation, and so on. The conclusion suggests itself unequivocally - it is inexpedient to save on material for a wooden staircase. That is, if you buy boards, then only a high degree of drying, although they are more expensive.
Calculation of the main parameters of the stairs
Width
When determining this parameter, one should be guided by such moments. First, whether it will be convenient to move up the stairs at the same time, towards each other. Secondly, will it be possible to transfer bulky goods from floor to floor (furnishings, household appliances, and so on). For a private house recommended width of the internal ladder - 130 ± 20.
Ladder height
When calculating this parameter, inexperienced "home craftsmen" are guided by the ceiling of the first floor room. This is not true. When drawing up a drawing of a staircase, not only this parameter is taken into account, but also the total thickness of the floor and floor of the second room (together with the finishing). That is, the last step should be on the same level with it.
Span height
This refers to the distance between the steps and the overlap of the second floor (ceiling). It is clear that moving up the stairs, constantly bending your head down is not an option to save space. Basically, masters are guided by 200. This is enough, since rarely anyone's height exceeds this value.
The steepness of a wooden staircase
The optimum is considered to be a slope of 40 ± 5º. Exceeding this value will complicate the ascent to the second floor for elderly people, young children, and also for those whose physical capabilities are limited for some reason. But even a flatter design has a number of disadvantages. The consumption of wood increases, and the space for its installation will require much more. Here you need to choose the most appropriate option for a particular house.
Steps
- Tread. You should focus on the 45th size of a person's foot, then it will be convenient for everyone to walk up the stairs. Based on this, the recommended step width is within 28 ± 2.
- Riser. The optimal value, regardless of the design features of a wooden staircase, is 18 ± 2. It will be convenient for both children and a tall person to navigate along it.
- Number of steps. Calculation is required here. The distance between adjacent ones is determined simply - the thickness of their board + riser. When a fractional value is obtained, it is rounded to the nearest whole value. It remains only to divide the height of the stairs by it.
What to consider:
- The dimensions of all steps of the main staircase must be identical. That is, it is enough to make calculations for only one.
- If there are more than 18 steps, then it is recommended to provide a platform in the staircase design (therefore, at least 2 flights). It is called differently - observation, swivel, intermediate - but you need to mount it. Another question - where exactly should it be located - strictly in the center of the span, closer to the top of the stairs? It is worth considering here, taking into account the peculiarities of the house and the convenience of moving to the second floor.
Ladder length
This is the last step in the calculation. Initial data - the parameters of the steps and their number. As practice shows, when independently drawing up a drawing of a staircase, it often does not fit the calculated length to the premises of the first floor. How to proceed? There are several options:
- Add one march. This decision is more difficult, since you will have to mount an additional platform, and, therefore, re-perform the basic calculations.
- Provide in the construction of the stairs several turning (run-in) steps. The option is simpler and more convenient for doing it yourself. It is he who is most often implemented.
Features of mounting a wooden staircase
Regardless of its design, all basic technological operations are identical. If you understand the nuances of building a one-march staircase, then assembling it according to any other scheme will not be difficult.
Specificity of preparation of component parts
Steps. For them, segments of the board are selected that do not have any defects in the form of chips, cracks, curvatures. Their recommended thickness, taking into account the expected loads, is 35 ± 5. It is no longer advisable, since both the material consumption and the total weight of the structure increase. Less undesirable for safety reasons of moving up the stairs (taking into account the carried loads).
At the stage of preparing the steps, it is necessary to round off the sharp edges of the fragments of the boards in order to eliminate the risk of injury. In addition, their front surface and ends must be carefully sanded - no chips, burrs, and so on. It will come in handy here. The length of the steps is chosen depending on the chosen scheme of a wooden staircase. But their protrusions beyond the stringers by more than 3 (cm) are undesirable.
Risers. They are not load-bearing elements and often play only a decorative role. Here you can save a little on them by using a board for 10 or 15. By the way, some wooden stairs are assembled without them. Such structures look even more impressive, and, in addition, cleaning of spans is greatly simplified.
Kosoura. These are the supporting elements for the entire staircase, so the lumber for them should be chosen especially carefully. Special attention is paid to the equality of all parameters. Both kosour should be like "twin brothers", otherwise the staircase after assembly will turn out to be asymmetric, with distortions, curvatures and so on. The figures show some options for kosour.
The feasibility of making fencing elements with your own hands is questionable. It is good if it is possible to process balusters, handrails on machine equipment. Otherwise, it is better to purchase ready-made samples. Given the fact that it is they (especially with a side view) that are first of all striking, such costs are fully justified.
The nuances of installing a wooden staircase
Fastening the stringers. Fixing the extreme on the wall is possible only if the base is strong enough (a house made of bricks, timber, and so on). In other cases, the entire structure of the ladder is mounted on racks.
To prevent the lower part from moving, a support block is installed on the floor of the first floor. The top of the span is fixed in the floor itself (you will need to make a cutout in the beam along its width) or "fastened" to it with anchor bolts. The stringers themselves must also be fastened together so that they are not "led" in the process of wood drying. For example, like this.
Risers. If it is decided to use them in the staircase scheme, then they are attached to the stringers.
Steps. In order not to be mistaken, their installation begins from the bottom of the structure. Side mounts - on the support beams, if there are risers, then at least at one point (in the center) on them.
Balusters. At first, only two are mounted - the upper and lower. A cord is pulled between them. Guided by it, it is easy to install along the spans of the stairs and align all the rest.
Fastening of handrails. When it comes to a wooden staircase, this a priori does not mean that these elements must also be made of wood. It is quite difficult to make them out of it with your own hands. Here you will need not only experience, but also the appropriate tool. Handrail options are plastic or metal.
The final stage
After checking the symmetry of the structure, the reliability of all connections, a number of measures are taken:
- Grinding of all structural parts.
- Impregnation with special / compounds (from fire, rot, wood-boring insects).
- Surface decoration. The painting option is not for a private house. It is advisable to treat the stairs with a tinting compound, and on top or with a wax-containing solution. But this is at the discretion of the owner, depending on the general style of decoration of the room.
