How to mount drywall guides. How to expose a profile under drywall

The use of drywall involves the creation massive construction from the profile. It ensures the stability of the floors and without it it is impossible to imagine a single project.

This article will look at how to properly attach the drywall guides.

Profile types

Today there are many varieties of drywall profiles, which differ from each other in functional purpose and method of connection.

Therefore, before figuring out how to install, you should familiarize yourself with the main classifications:

Guide (NP)... It is not difficult to guess from the name that given variety the profile serves as a guiding link in the structure. It is actively used for the manufacture of various structures.
Rack (SP). This view serves as the main element in any design. It is inserted into the guide profile, which must be fixed around the entire perimeter of the surface.
Ceiling (PP)... It is the main element in the manufacture of the ceiling. Installation of drywall guides is carried out using special fasteners ("crabs" and hangers).

Guide - ceiling (NPP)... Performs the same role as the guide, but exclusively for plasterboard ceilings.
Corner (UE)... Designed for finishing the corners of plasterboard frames after finishing.

Mounting

Now it's time to start exploring the basic steps for installing the guides. If you are going to perform such an operation for the first time with your own hands, then it is better to start from the very beginning.

Toolkit preparation

To mount the profile, you will need the following tools and materials:

Ceiling profile (60-27 mm).
Guide profile (27-28 mm).
Cutter.
Direct suspensions.
Grinder (can be replaced with metal scissors).
Special knife for cutting gypsum boards.
Screwdriver (or small hammer drill).
Self-tapping screws for drywall (25 mm).
"Klopiki" (that is, screws for metal - 4 mm).
Dowels (6 and 8 mm).
Level (laser is best, but its price is much higher than water level).
Roulette.
Marker (waterproof) or construction pencil.
A thread.
Plumb line.
Single-level X-connector ("crab").

Assembling the frame from the guides

The time has come to move from theory to practice. Our instructions for attaching a profile for drywall will be disassembled using the example of installing a frame for a wall.

It is needed for further sheathing with GKL sheets.

The first step is to apply a markup on a piece of paper in order to prevent fatal mistakes in the future.... Do not forget about scaling, as in the case of incorrectly selected proportions, all work will be in vain. For convenience, you can use special computer programs that will take some of the work for themselves.
Only after design can you start installation... Fastening the drywall guides should be done with 8 mm dowels. It is better to cut the material with metal scissors.

Then, on the guide profile (located on the floor), mark the places where the rack profile will be attached. In this case, the distance from the wall to the first joint venture should be no more than 30 cm. This is done so that thinned edges do not form in the corners.

Tip: do not use the marker for line-out, as it may wear off.
It is best to use a construction pencil.

After putting a mark on the NP located on the floor, it must be transferred to the one on the ceiling... To do this, you need to use a level or plumb line. It is very important not to allow even the slightest mistakes at this stage, as they will lead to a distortion of the entire structure.
Then you can mount the suspensions to the wall on dowels-6 mm, observing a step of 80 cm... It is necessary to insert the joint venture according to the marked marks into the NP and, applying a suspension, mark the holes for future fastening. Using a punch (or powerful drill) it is required to drill holes into which the hangers will be fixed.

When all suspensions are fixed, you can insert the SP-profile into the holes made... First you need to pull the line between the two guides. She will be the guarantor of the accuracy of the installation.
Only then can you start attaching the guides. This is done using self-tapping screws and a cutter. If any moments are not clear, the thematic video presented on our portal will help you.
The joint venture is attached to the suspensions with the help of "klopiks"... This must be done in such a way that it touches the line lightly without creating gaps. Otherwise, the evenness of the structure will be in question.
After the vertical joint venture is mounted, it's time to start installing horizontal guides.... This is done using drywall crabs. First, it is required to cut the profile into pieces equal to the selected step of the vertical joint venture (usually 60 cm).
They need to be inserted between vertical joint ventures, strictly perpendicular... These elements should be located at a distance of 40-60 cm from each other. Fastening is best done with self-tapping screws, while it is advisable to regularly check the perpendicularity using a level.

That's all, we can say that the installation of the drywall guides is complete. If you did everything correctly, you should have a flat and stable structure that can be sheathed with drywall (or other similar material).

Everyone who has come across the installation of drywall knows how important it is to set the frame straight. After all, the beauty of the design depends to a large extent on this, and even the most experienced virtuoso painter cannot correct serious errors resulting from an unevenly exposed frame.

Well, down with the lyrics and get to the point.
To level the frame, almost all craftsmen use few methods. Here is some of them.

The first is using a thread or elastic band. The advantages of this method are few, or rather, they are practically nonexistent. But there are cases when you can't do without a thread. For example, a string comes in handy when you need to set the frame along a very long wall, since it is easy to determine the direction of the future wall with the help of a string. The second case, when the cord is very helpful, for example, during installation sloped ceilings located not in the "horizon", but at a certain angle. In this case, the usual tools for determining the vertical and horizontal are useless, therefore, in most cases, you have to set the frame in one plane with the help of various laces and lines.

For example, you need to set the attic ceiling frame in one plane, which will repeat the direction of the roof slope. To do this, you can draw two horizontal lines. One at the top of the ramp, the other at the bottom and, guided by these lines, determine to what height the ceiling should be lowered, as well as its angle of inclination. After that, along the opposite walls, parallel to the bearing profiles, it is necessary to pull two threads.

At this stage, many people make the mistake of pulling the thread at the same level as the exposed frame. As a result of this, it often happens that one of the profiles did not just touch the cord, but pulled it off for some distance. Because of this, all subsequent profiles will be set incorrectly. To prevent this from happening, the cord must be installed not flush with the frame, but with a small gap of 2 - 3 mm.

Having installed two guide threads at the required level, it is not difficult to install a so-called "floating" thread between them, which will run perpendicular to the bearing profiles. To do this, it is necessary to attach a third thread to the loops across the two guide threads, which can be moved and installed opposite the next row of exposed suspensions. So that the exposed profiles do not interfere and do not pull the movable cord, they can be temporarily fixed in the upper position by inserting, for example, a nail 75 mm long into the suspension holes.

To minimize the sagging of the thread, you can use a thin elastic band or a fishing line that is pulled tighter instead. Despite the simplicity of the method, in practice it turns out that it is quite difficult to expose the frame for sure. If we talk about the accuracy plus or minus half a centimeter, then, of course, it will not be difficult to expose the frame with such accuracy. But for the majority of self-respecting masters, such an error is unacceptable. And in general, in order for the structure to look great, the error should not be more than 1-2 mm for single-level structures and 2-3 mm for structures made in several levels. With the help of a cord, you can achieve good accuracy, but you need to be extremely careful.

Once my friend, while still working in Moscow, exhibited tiles along a "floating" cord. Being a scrupulous man, he exhibited each tile carefully and extremely carefully. In the end, fully confident that the tiles were perfectly laid, he applied the level diagonally and discovered significant "sins". This case is not alone. Every second master who exposes the frame under the cord, when applying the level, significant errors are found. In order to avoid them, again, you need to be extremely careful and practice a lot.

Summing up everything, we can say that the method of putting under the thread has two disadvantages. The first is insufficient accuracy, or rather, it is very easy to miscalculate. And the second - this method is not the fastest. But this method allows you to exhibit structures that are not in a vertical or horizontal plane. And this, of course, is an indisputable plus.

The next method is relatively new - it is the exposure of the frame under the laser level. This method is quite fast, but the accuracy of the placement depends to a large extent on the quality of the instrument itself, which, in turn, strongly depends on its price, type and manufacturer. The line fidelity that inexpensive levels drop is poor. In some cases, the error can be about a centimeter by 10 meters. Actually, this is indicated in the documentation for the device itself: "The error is 1 mm per 1 m." If you are the proud owner laser level, in which the error is minimized, then you can expose the frame and using the "laser".

If it is possible to raise the laser level in such a way that its line passes along the lower edge of the exposed profiles, then all that remains is to ensure that all profiles are evenly highlighted with a line. If the line is interrupted on one of the profiles, it means that this profile is lowered too low and does not allow the line to "go" further. If, on all profiles, the line is evenly highlighted, but on one of the profiles it is not, then it means that it is raised higher and should be lowered to the required level.

When the ceiling drops slightly and the overlap does not allow raising the laser level to the required height, you can make a device that will allow you to set the profile, even if the "laser" line is below the level of the frame. This device can be very simple. For example, it might be a rectangular magnet with a reference line drawn on it. Attaching this magnet to each profile at the places where the suspensions are placed, it remains only to make sure that the line that the level throws coincides with the line drawn on the surface of the magnet.

The method of setting the profile using a laser level in last years is becoming more and more popular, although in my opinion it is not that great. Personally, I rarely use a laser and only use it when it is really needed and really helps. Over the years of work, I have tried all the methods and for myself I have identified the method that allows you to expose the frame quickly and with maximum accuracy. I have been using this method for more than one year and now, for me, it is the main one.

So! Third way. Exposing the frame to a two-meter level. Why exactly under two meters? Yes, because for the level, the length of two meters is the most optimal. On the one hand, it is long enough, and on the other, not so long as to bend. In order to set a profile quickly and accurately, you must adhere to certain rules.

First. You do not need to display a profile all in a row, but only lighthouse ones. That is, only those to which the level "reaches". For example, to expose a frame in a room with an area of 20 sq. M., It is enough to expose to begin with three support profiles that go through three profiles, and then you can already expose intermediate profiles by simply applying a level to the previously exposed profiles
(Photo-diagram).

And the second thing. When setting the support profiles, they need to be rechecked from all four sides and, if an error is found, it is advisable to find the place where you missed. If the error is insignificant, and you cannot find the place where the error was made, then you can divide this error in half and thereby reduce it practically to nothing. And then, setting up intermediate profiles and checking the plane diagonally, you can find this small error and correct it.

Despite the simplicity of the method, a significant plus is that when setting the support-lighthouse profiles, you can see the deviations of the profile within 0.5 mm, while you will not notice these deviations from a lace or laser, since you will notice such a deviation visually guided by the line is unrealistic.
Why such precision, you ask?
As stated in folk wisdom: "Do it well, but it will turn out badly by itself." There is some truth in this saying. Try to set everything up to the nearest millimeter, and errors of 1 - 2 mm will turn out by themselves. And if you initially allow more errors, then in the end result these errors can grow up to a centimeter.

I would also like to highlight the following question: do you need to expose a profile near each suspension or can it be through one?

Almost all drywall workers make such a mistake, mistakenly believing that it is enough to expose the suspension in the middle of the room, the profile will not go anywhere further. The profile bends quite strongly on great distance, so you need to place it near each suspension and not otherwise.

If you are exhibiting a frame in a room small size, say, up to 30 square meters, then you can accurately set the frame using the usual level. If the room is larger, then, without sufficient experience, you can significantly miss. To prevent this from happening, I want to offer you a combined way of setting profiles. This is a mixture of the second and third methods. With the help of the laser level, you can set only the support profiles, and then with the help of the usual level you can set intermediate ones, along the way checking whether you made mistakes when setting up using the "laser". It is both fast and accurate.

If you have any questions, you can ask me on the forum, I will be happy to help.
Good luck in your endeavors.

Gypsum plasterboard (gypsum plasterboard), as a rule, is attached to the crate, respectively, the installation of the profile under the drywall must be reliable. Often, novice builders buy thin metal PP guides, and some areas on the ceiling are squeezed under the weight of the material. To do the job correctly, you need to study the finishing technology. The panels for wall and ceiling cladding themselves are easy to use, and little time is spent on making the frame.

Plasterboard sheets are attached to the frame from special profiles

Wooden and metal products

Partitions, walls and ceilings cannot be finished with drywall sheets alone. Therefore, profiles are the main part of the entire structure. There are 2 types of products:

metal;
wooden.

In the first case, the strips for mounting on the gypsum board have many disadvantages. The material is not in wide demand, since manufacturers do not produce it, but it is still used for the installation of battens. What are the cons to expect when using wood products:

low operational life;
decay of wooden planks when interacting with water;
such a crate does not shine with strength, so it may deform after a while;
high degree of ignition;
laborious installation of the frame.

This video shows how to build a frame from profiles:

Steel structures are superior wooden models undeniable merits... They are several times more expensive, but this is the only drawback. Pros that can be highlighted:

rigid and durable lathing does not deform even after many years of operation;
ease of assembly of the structure;
long service life due to the fact that the material is made of zinc and has a sufficient thickness of the sides so as not to bend under the weight of the sheets;
there is different types profiles for both the ceiling and walls.

Of course, the owner will overpay money for the purchase of such a high-quality building material, but he will forever forget about the periodic restoration of the suspended product.

Types of guides

There are profiles for the ceiling and walls, but they are structurally similar to each other. Therefore, there are only 2 types: starting and main models. The dimensions of the guides are made according to the standard - 300 cm long.If the room is large, then there is special fasteners, which connect 2 elements from the ends and achieve a value of 600 cm.

The frame for fastening drywall is made of starting and main guide profiles

Profiles marked PP and PS must be installed for areas of a room with a high load. These types of steel strips at the ends are designated by the letters C or P. PN - guide profile (starting). It is used for mounting to walls in a horizontal or vertical position. Then the main metal products are mounted in it, which form the frame. As far as they are installed evenly, the coating will be so even. Variations of steel profiles for drywall:

NP - this type is used for walls, because it plays the role of a vertical support.
NP - performs the functions of the ceiling value on which the gypsum board is mounted.
PP - starting guides are installed under the ceiling around the entire perimeter of the room. The main profiles are attached to them and a suspended ceiling is created.

Np profile is used for better fixing of drywall to the frame

There is certain types material that is used infrequently. If the owner country house decided to make difficult geometric figures or to protect the weak areas of the finish from mechanical damage, then you cannot do without them:

Corners. After fixing the drywall boards, these parts are mounted. They are installed along the entire length of the corner, for example, on partitions. The elements are fixed with staples and a stapler. On the ceiling, they are rarely used, exceptions are two- or three-tiered structures. In other cases, the corners are installed on the walls.
Half arcs. These are radius profiles installed in arched openings or other asymmetrical areas of the house. They, like the main types, are fixed on screws.

You can do without buying semicircular strips and make them yourself. It is enough to arm yourself with scissors for metal, put dashes with an equal pitch on the sides of the main flat guide NP and make cuts, not reaching the bottom of the product by 2 mm. Then the structure is bent and mounted to the lintels. The work will not take much time and you will not have to overpay for radius models.

Construction fixing rules

The lathing is fixed on metal hangers. Due to them, they expose the gap between the wall or ceiling and the slats. Therefore, the master does not need to level the surface of the ceiling, which significantly speeds up the workflow. Several suspensions are mounted on 1 m². The part looks like a plate, the edges of which are equipped with multiple holes for self-tapping screws.

The plasterboard frame must be installed on a flat ceiling

The starter guides must be installed on plastic dowels and screws. To securely fasten the bar, holes are made in it every 50 cm with a puncher, both in the part itself and in the wall. Hammer the plastic fasteners with a hammer and screw in the screw. Other profiles are sold with pre-made holes, they are more suitable for novice builders. Here are some professional tips to make installing drywall rails much easier:

You cannot use curved guides to create a frame, as this will affect the evenness of the ceiling or wall.
Room layout
The frame requires correct markup walls. If this is not done, then the design will be crooked. List of tools for work:
chalk-treated cord, this is sold in hardware stores;
roulette
pencil;
hydro level;
level.

If the technician is not sure about the evenness of the ceiling, then he uses the hydro level to find the zero point. In the corner of the room from the floor, he marks 100 cm. Applies one side of the tool to it, and sets the other on the opposite corner, when the water levels out, draws a short line with a pencil at its level. The procedure is carried out with all sides of the room.
From the ceiling down the wall, measure no more than 10 cm. They put a mark from which they measure the height to the bottom line. The resulting size is transferred to all corners of the room. it perfect way achieve a single plane. It is advisable to involve an assistant in the work.
At the level of two marks, the cord is pulled tightly, the material is grasped by the hand closer to the middle, pulled away from the surface and released. As a result, an even print will remain, which will serve as a beacon for setting start profiles. Similar manipulations are done around the entire perimeter of the room.
To obtain a high-quality drywall frame, you should clearly follow the instructions
You can use other methods: retreat 10 cm down from the ceiling and mark this place with a pencil, attach a long level at the line level and adjust it, then draw a line on top of it, on the edge of which the tool is again placed and similar work is carried out. And so they do until they have marked out the entire perimeter of the room.
Technique for mounting the frame on the ceiling
The design of the ceiling lathing from the wall is almost the same. Specialists in 1 day are able to build a product in a room with an area of 20 m². How they do it:

The installation of profiles for drywall is controlled building level... Even the slightest differences are categorically unacceptable, especially for the stage where the element is attached to the ceiling. Therefore, installation is best done together.

Creation of lathing on the walls
Before starting work, specialists level the surface of the room, since the starting ones are installed on them, and as you know, they are considered the basis for the entire structure. Installation of profiles for drywall on walls:
The wall surface is lined up - this applies to the floor and ceiling. Marks are made, to which the marked cord is applied, pulled back and released. On impact, a straight line will remain.
Starting guides are installed on the floor and on the ceiling, which are attached to dowels and screws. In the corners of two opposite walls, profiles are mounted vertically. Because standard height modern premises are not more than 300 cm, then the bar does not have to be increased by connecting two such elements with fasteners.
The main profiles are placed vertically with a pitch of 50 cm, and they are fastened with "bedbugs" screws.
Jumpers are made with trimming sides 4 cm long on both sides. They are placed in increments of 50 cm. The work is constantly monitored by level. The joints are fastened with "crabs".

To give the structure rigidity, the masters advise using not only suspensions, but also pieces of the profile. For example, if the distance between the wall and the crate is 10 cm, then PP guides are prepared according to the same dimensions, the sides of which are cut at one edge, all parts are bent back. The material is installed in the frame bar, the other end is placed against the wall, in which holes are made and the product is fixed with dowels and self-tapping screws.
The work is over. It remains to check the quality of the installation of the metal profile for drywall. From the top corner of the wall, pull the thread to the bottom. Attach a second cord, but in reverse side to make a big X. If there are no significant gaps, and the structure does not stagger, then the process of assembling the crate with your own hands was successful.

Work with dry gypsum plaster begins with the installation of profiles for drywall.

The frame is the basis, on the evenness of which the entire result of the work depends, therefore, at each stage of its construction, you need to use the building level.

In general, this work requires concentration and attention.

The key to success in any repair is the selection quality materials and the right tools.

When repairs are done by hand, many tools are already in the arsenal of craftsmen, but some special devices will be needed to mount a frame from profiles for drywall.

The list is not small, but there are no unnecessary items in it.

Of the usual tools, you can name:

roulette;
building level;
hammer;
stationery knife;
metal knife;
several spatulas.

Separately, it is worth purchasing a spatula for corners if you have to create volumetric structures.

You will also need a screwdriver and a hammer drill.

Installation of the frame and the drywall itself is impossible without:

wedge anchor;
dowel-nails;
self-tapping screws.

If the room has "overwhelmed" walls or a too skewed ceiling, then you will need to use some types of fasteners: straight hangers, crab connectors, profile extensions.

Well, of course - aluminum profiles and drywall in the right amount.

In order for the applied marking lines, and subsequently the erected plasterboard planes, to be perfectly flat, you can use a laser or hydro level for work.

These fixtures save time, since it is quite difficult for a normal building level to accurately determine how skewed the ceiling is or to mark the walls.

A cord breaker may also come in handy. For a kind of sound insulation, the craftsmen use a sealing tape when installing the bearing profiles.

If sound insulation is to be done thoroughly, then the materials must be appropriate.

Finishing work requires an acrylic primer, putty, reinforcing tape for the joints, and it may also be necessary to treat the original surface with an antifungal solution.

The market now offers different kinds drywall, both for indoor and outdoor use.

To make repairs with your own hands, you need to pay attention to the following ones: ordinary and moisture resistant.

For finishing rooms exposed to high humidity, it is better to use the latter.

It is also worth choosing connecting elements and aluminum profiles from reliable manufacturers.

Plasterboard wall decoration

The secrets of perfectly flat walls often lie in the right choice finishes.

Unambiguously, having estimated the time, effort, money spent on work, as well as the final result, we can say with confidence that drywall is perfect solution for imperfect walls.

The work begins with the markup. Lines are drawn on the floor along which they will be located bearing profiles and markup for vertical elements. These lines should be equidistant from each other.

At standard width sheet one meter twenty centimeters, this distance is sixty centimeters. This is done so that the joints of the sheets fall exactly in the middle of the profile.

The first vertical profiles should be at some distance from the corners. Other secrets of installing a frame for drywall are revealed in the next video.

The erection of the frame begins with a guide profile fixed to the floor. After that, vertical elements will be placed along the drawn lines.

They should be the same length as the room, but the standard length is usually longer than the height of the walls.

This is not a problem, because aluminum elements are easy to cut even with your own hands using metal scissors.

Before starting the installation of the vertical components of the frame, suspensions are attached to the wall with a step of 50-60 centimeters, on which profiles will be installed in the future.

If the height of the walls exceeds the standard length of the sheet of two and a half meters, then the drywall must be installed at a distance. In this case, there is a need for additional transverse bridges.

They should also be installed, taking into account the fact that they should have a joint. The remaining spaces are filled with pieces of drywall cut to size.

Installation is carried out on self-tapping screws with a step of up to 25 centimeters.

Erection of new walls from plasterboard

If it is necessary to divide the space into several rooms, drywall can do its best.

The special advantage of this material is its Fire safety, without this quality it is impossible even to talk about conducting electrical wiring inside the wall.

In addition, all the work can be done by hand.

Having drawn up a preliminary plan of the room, you can start marking the design position of future walls.

Constructive lines are easier to apply using a laser level and a deflector.

Secrets correct use these tools are presented in the video.

Walls, especially in older houses, almost never form perfectly right angles to each other.

There is always some kind of error, which leads to the fact that the distance between opposite partitions at the beginning and end is different.

Taking this into account, the plasterboard structure should be placed at an equal distance from opposite walls. Then it will not be noticeable that the room is not in perfect shape.

In addition, the erection plasterboard partition should be the last stage of the renovation, that is, the walls and ceiling should be putty.

The installation of the lower bearing profiles is carried out according to the set marks. The distance between the attachment points should not be more than a meter; there should be at least three dowels for each element.

In the same way, the guide profiles are fixed to the ceiling. After measuring the height of the room, the rack profiles are cut and installed.

Those that adjoin the walls are mounted using sealing tape, those that form the doorway need to be strengthened.

How to do this is described in the top video.

After installing the outer pillars, the remaining space must be filled with vertical elements in sixty centimeters increments and horizontal bridges, as with wall cladding.

After pulling the electrical wiring, you can attach drywall to one side aluminum frame and lay insulating material.

Drywall on the second side of the frame is attached so that the joints of the sheets on both sides do not coincide.

Before finishing the wall putty, the seams are primed and sealed with a serpyanka, the recessed heads of the self-tapping screws are also hidden under the putty.

Frame for plasterboard ceiling

Some species false ceilings and similar structures are built not only for aesthetic purposes, with the help drywall boxes hiding communications or unsightly beams.

Also, if necessary, additional heat and sound insulation can be hidden in these structures.

Installation of the ceiling with your own with your lungs cannot be named. But if necessary and with enough practice, the result can be pleasantly surprised.

This will take a lot of time, however, if you wish, you can even make a two-level structure with your own hands.

Plasterboard ceiling, like past types plasterboard structures, are attached at the stage when other surfaces (except for the floor) are ready.

Installation also begins with marking the walls and ceiling.

If there is no laser level and cord breaker, then the marking can be done with your own hands using a pencil and a building level.

Along the marked lines, guide profiles are attached to the walls with dowels using a sealing tape.

The frequency of the attachment points should be at least fifty centimeters, at least three for each profile. After that, direct suspensions are attached to the ceiling.

The distance between the hangers is determined by the load applied in the future. After the installation of the supporting profiles, the transverse jumpers are installed.

The step of the cross members must be uniform, when standard sizes sheet, it is advisable to take a step equal to 50 centimeters.

The first bearing profile should be 10 centimeters from the wall. The cross-bars are attached with a crab connector.

How to properly attach such clamps is well shown in the following video.

After installing the frame, you can start sheathing it with drywall. Trimming the sheets is done using a clerical knife or a special drywall knife.

Sheets should be fastened apart. Place self-tapping screws with a frequency of 15-20 centimeters, leaving a centimeter from the edge “in stock”.

Finishing

In order for the result of the work to be durable, you need to follow some rules for working with drywall.

When the installation of sheets on the frame is performed, it is necessary that the caps of the screws are slightly recessed, the screws need to be staggered at a distance of ten millimeters from the edge of the sheet.

The cardboard must not be torn at the attachment points. Before installing from drywall, you need to cut a chamfer at an angle - this will facilitate the sealing of joints in the future.

When creating rounded structures, for example, on a multi-level ceiling, smooth lines from profiles and drywall can be achieved with your own hands by making frequent cuts on the profile or on one side of the sheet.

Finishing includes priming and sealing with serpyanka. Also, recessed caps of self-tapping screws are hidden under the putty.

After drying and sanding, it is applied finishing layer putties. The last step is painting.

Now interior decoration when renovating residential premises, it is impossible to imagine without the use of drywall - rigid panels that allow you to quickly create structures of various geometric shapes... In most situations, before installing the planking from the gypsum board, a frame is created that determines the rigidity and shape created elements interior. To assemble the crate, you need to know what to make it from and how, so that the structure meets the strength requirements and eventually acquires the desired configuration.

Necessary materials for the installation of the frame under the gypsum board - metal products in preference

For the assembly of battens with rectilinear geometry for subsequent sheathing with drywall sheets, you can use lumber - wooden beams or reiki. However, wood products used for these purposes are slowly becoming a thing of the past. There are several reasons:

fragility of wood materials;
difficulties with the selection of products of the correct geometric shape;
deformation of the elements of the supporting structure made of wood under the influence of changes in humidity and temperature;
difficulties when trying to create a design of irregular geometric shapes (arches, elements tiered ceiling and design zoning partitions).

Now, to create load-bearing structures sheathed with gypsum boards, they prefer to use profiles - galvanized metal products that are produced specifically for these purposes. The profiles at the butt end are U-shaped, and the top of the letter is called the back, and its "legs" are called shelves. The dimensions of the shelves and backrests differ depending on the purpose of the galvanized products. There are four main types of profiles:

ceiling guide (UD) with end dimensions 28x27 mm;
load-bearing ceiling (CD), dimensions at the end - 60 mm back, 27 mm shelves;
partition guide (UW), shelves 40 mm each, backrest 50-100 mm;
load-bearing partition - the back varies within the same limits as in the previous product (the thickness of the partition depends on this size), shelves of 50 mm.

The assembly of most types of frames is based on the use of the listed products. Accessory devices are adjustable and straight hangers to capital structures, and single-level connectors (crabs). Fixation metal products between each other, when mounting a profile for drywall, it is carried out in a small size (9 mm) with self-tapping screws for metal, which can be galvanized (white) or phosphated (black). The hangers that hold the bearing profile are attached to the capital structures with dowels or self-tapping screws (depending on the structure of the material).

Recently, they began to produce arched (flexible) profiles, although a similar product is made without much hassle from UD by notching the shelves.

Do-it-yourself ceiling lathing - short instructions for installation work

Whatever the suspended ceiling structure from drywall - one or multi-level, first we mount the base crate. At the beginning of work, we make a horizontal plane skip, for which we use a water level or a laser level and a painting dye thread. As a result of the procedure carried out, horizontal stripes remain on the walls, which are a guideline for the installation of the guide profile. The latter is fixed around the perimeter solid with self-tapping screws or dowels with an attachment pitch of about half a meter.

Now the turn of the bearing profiles. Before installing them, you need to decide on the lathing scheme. There are two options. The first one provides for the installation of longitudinal slats at a distance of 60 cm from each other with the installation of additional transverse partitions with a pitch of 50 cm.The second version of the frame provides for a distance of 40 cm between the main profiles with the installation of crossbars only in the places of longitudinal joining drywall sheets... Both schemes are noteworthy and meet the strength requirements, but the first option is more convenient if the installation of the second level of the ceiling structure is planned.

First, into the grooves of the guide profiles, we put longitudinal strips cut to the required length with metal scissors, and distribute them with a step corresponding to the chosen version of the lathing scheme. The next step is to attach the hangers to the ceiling. We fix the products with two dowels opposite each supporting element of the frame at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other. Having fastened the suspensions, we raise the bearing profiles higher normal level the frame to be mounted and temporarily fix them with the side suspension plates in this position.

2-3 threads or lines are pulled across the longitudinal strips at the level of the lower shelves of the guide profiles. Each longitudinal element of the structure is installed and fixed to the suspensions so that the backrest does not reach the approximate threads of 1-2 mm. Having fixed all the main bearing strips, we install the crossbars using crabs, and additionally fix each partition to the ceiling using a suspension. This completes the installation of the ceiling - you can sheathe the assembled frame or proceed with the installation of the second level.

Wall supporting structure from a profile - nothing complicated, but there are nuances

For the assembly of the frame, the same products are used as on the ceiling. The difference between the process itself is that a vertical plane is formed and there are obstacles in the form of openings of doors and windows, which must be additionally "bypassed". The principle of assembling the lathing is also not very different. First, the guide strips are fixed to the ceiling or ceiling slabs. With the help of a plumb line, vertical landmarks are marked on adjacent walls, according to which guides are also installed. A line is struck between their bottom edges to help complete the formation of the vertical perimeter. On the floor, the guide profile is not fixed solid - gaps are made in the doorways.

Vertical racks (CD-profile) are installed in 60 cm (standard) or 40 cm (reinforced version) steps, starting from one of the walls. Regardless of the location of the main pillars, additional load-bearing elements are mounted along the side edges of the openings. When installing profiles for drywall, the wall hangers are attached in a different order. The first suspension from the bottom is fixed at a distance of 50-60 cm from the floor surface, the second - at the same distance from the first. The third fastener is fixed approximately in the middle of the distance from the ceiling (slab) to the installation site of the second suspension. Additional fasteners are installed only in case of an expected increased load on the structure (installation kitchen set, boiler, gas wall boiler or column).

Racks are also set along horizontally or diagonally stretched threads. In places most likely mechanical damage plasterboard sheathing (about a meter from floor level), you can strengthen the structure. The same elements of the crate are additionally mounted in the places of the proposed installation of wall objects. The crossbeams are also reinforced with hangers that rigidly fix them to the main wall.

We make partitions - features of assembling the base for plasterboard cladding

The principle of mounting a profile for drywall when assembling a partition frame is somewhat reminiscent of the installation of a wall structure. The workflow begins with stamping the perimeter of the vertical plane and fixing the guide. The guide bar is not installed only on the floor area corresponding to the opening under the doors or the arch, which are supposed to be in the partition. The frame posts (CW-profile) are also installed in two variants of the distance between them (40 and 60 cm). The step is selected depending on the expected load on the structure.

Regardless of the distance between the supporting elements of the lathing, to form the opening, additional racks are installed so that the profiles are deployed with their backs to each other (to them will be attached door frame). To give the partition structure additional rigidity, a wooden blocks corresponding section. This is done if heavy wall objects are hung on the partition.