Plasterboard sheathing of the attic ceiling. Attic plasterboard finishing

After the walls under the slopes are sewn up with drywall, the guide profile is screwed on the laser:

This must be done from two sides at once, so that there is one level on both sides if you want to get an even slope

Mount the guide profile only in those places where there is a profile under the drywall. Just screwing to drywall - to no avail.

Somewhere helped with his knee

As a result, it turned out like this:

Further, at the ridge, at each pediment, two suspensions are attached. They must be on the same line (strictly parallel to the central axis of the attic). For this, I also used a laser plane builder. Between them I pulled a thread and screwed intermediate suspensions along the thread:

After all the upper suspensions are screwed, we unscrew them Not completely, but only the upper self-tapping screw and bend it like this:

to screw the top self-tapping screw into the ceiling profile. You can’t get close with a screwdriver from above, this is the easiest way that I thought of.

The ceiling profile is screwed onto all hangers from above and the hanger fasteners are returned to their place.

I set the lower edge of this profile along a thread stretched between the upper edge and the guide profile. To cling to the edges at the ends of the thread, I made the following devices:

We pull the thread and orient the profile plane along the thread:

This is very important, because along this plane all other, intermediate profiles will be guided.

On the extreme rafters, a suspension is attached every 40 centimeters. A thread is stretched between the extreme ones and suspensions are attached along the thread on the intermediate rafters.

A level is placed between the upper profile and the guide and it is marked on it where the intermediate profiles will pass:

The easiest way is to first press the intermediate profile with a level. With a marker in the other hand, mark a) where to cut the suspension and b) where to screw the self-tapping screw into the profile. Set the level aside. Trim the suspension and screw the screws into the places marked with a marker. It turns out very accurately and simply in execution.

Each edge of the drywall must be supported by something. This will require vertical profiles. Their location should be perpendicular to the central axis of the attic. This is very easy to do with a laser plane builder:

bottom edge vertical profile this is how it enters the guide profile:

Drywall frame ready:

It is sewn up with sheets of drywall:

For the attic, I use the usual drywall Knauf. 2500*1200*12.5mm. These are heavy sheets designed for walls. I deliberately went for it. In the attic, it is advised to use moisture resistant drywall. I believe that if your roof is leaking, then you need to repair the roof, and not close it with drywall from leaks. And the damaged drywall is simply thrown away. Moreover, moisture-resistant drywall will not allow you to see exactly where you have a leak. In my opinion, moisture-resistant drywall should be used in rooms with natural high humidity - bathtubs, toilets, kitchens, and slopes at windows and doors.

How to press and screw a 30-kilogram sheet onto a roof slope is a separate story, I'll leave it to you as homework

1) Drainage tray LV-10.14.5.10 - plastic - 2 pieces - 570 rubles.

2) Profile PP 60 * 27 3 meters - 28 pieces - 1,540 rubles.

Total: 2’110 rubles.

Very often, when living in spaces under the roof, we build special double-glazed windows into the slopes, which is why when it comes time to make a plasterboard ceiling, the attic requires special attention.

How to properly insulate the attic ceiling - the choice of material

Premises under roof slopes more tend to lose heat more than walls. To understand this, it is enough to remember how much the roof heats up from direct sunlight, due to which the temperature inside rises significantly. In winter, gusts of icy wind may well chill the attic, if you do not take care of its high-quality sealing with solid thermal insulation, which still needs to be sensibly laid.

If in the premises of the first and second floors only one wall is in contact with the external environment, a maximum of two in corner room, then at the attic the area of \u200b\u200bcontact with external conditions is wider - the entire roof and gables. You should not only know how to properly insulate the attic ceiling, but also be able to choose thermal insulation, the properties of which may be incompatible with the climatic features of the area. Close attention should be paid to the degree of thermal conductivity of the material, which affects the thickness of the layer being laid.

Expanded polystyrene (polystyrene) is considered the cheapest and most affordable, but it has a number of disadvantages. In particular, it is absolute airtightness, due to which the room loses natural ventilation, as well as content toxic substances, emitted with smoke when ignited. Mineral or fiberglass wool can provide high quality thermal insulation, however, over time, these materials tend to sag, creating voids through which cold begins to penetrate into the premises.

In addition, there is a physical aging of the fiber, which, gradually turning into dust, begins to penetrate the room in the form of the smallest dust, having a negative effect on the lungs. In this regard, basalt wool should be used with extreme caution. A good solution is rigid polyurethane foam, which provides reliable thermal insulation, provided there is no contact with sunlight. An alternative would be flax fiber in mats, but it is not a cheap material.

Plasterboard ceiling: do-it-yourself attic

Even the most the best insulation hardly provides a sufficiently smooth base for decorative finishing, therefore, the truss system should first be sheathed with material in order to level the surface. For this the best way suitable drywall. With it, you can install the attic ceiling in a short time, even in the absence of much experience. All that is required is basic knowledge of geometry and a good eye. Let's look at the option of sheathing the under-roof space in the presence of roofs cut into the slopes.

Plasterboard ceiling - step by step diagram

Step 1: Marking the plane of the ceiling on the windows

If you are going to mount drywall, then the space between the rafters is already filled with thermal insulation, on top of which the transverse logs of the inner crate are stuffed. But even a small difference in thickness roofing cake along the length of the slope can lead to the fact that the slopes of the built-in skylights will have the wrong geometry. To get their uniform width, we measure the same distance from the top and bottom points of each frame to the inner surface of the slope. If the segments do not match, we mark the plane of the ceiling so that it is parallel to the double-glazed windows.

Step 2: Forming the side vertical slopes

Along the perimeter of the frames, we fasten profiles cut to the appropriate length, so that the edges of the sides of the guides coincide with the edges of the double-glazed window. We leave room for the installation of drywall, it should be mounted almost flush with the inner edge of the frame, and so that it does not subsequently interfere with the opening of the sash. On the inner surface of the roof, on the sides of the window niche, we place long profiles with an emphasis on the lower and upper edges of the slope. We install them so that they are in the same vertical plane with the guides fixed near the double-glazed window.

Step 3:

We fasten all profiles to the suspensions fixed in advance on the crate, bending down the petals of the latter. For reliability, we attach the suspensions to the crossbars using small corners, installing them at the bends of the perforated strips.

We align the guides along the cords pre-tensioned, according to the markings made. We mount suspensions on each cross member or through one.

Step 4: Shaping the top and bottom slopes

To ensure maximum light flux, we place the upper slope horizontally with respect to the roof slope, for which we attach a transverse guide oriented parallel to the floor along the marking lines under the ridge. We screw it with screws bearing profiles, the opposite ends of which are mounted in suspensions mounted on a transverse board fixed along the upper side of the frame. Parallel to the carrier, but in another plane, located at an angle of 90 degrees, we fasten short cuts profile, which will become part of the side slopes. For the lower one, we simply fix the cross member under the guide fixed along the underside of the frame.

Step 5:

Cut out fragments from the insulation desired shape and carefully placed in the gaps between the profiles of the frame. In our case, rolled fiberglass is used as thermal insulation. Isover however, any alternative in the form of slabs thin enough to fit between the profiles will do. To keep the insulation well, we unbend the petals of the suspensions along its surface.

Step 6: Plasterboarding

Before making a plasterboard ceiling, the attic is completely insulated over the crate with another layer of thermal insulation, which will not be superfluous in harsh winter conditions. We stack roll material between the profiles and fix it with suspension petals.

Then we fasten sheets of dry plaster with self-tapping screws in increments of at least 60 centimeters. On sections of the frame with complex geometry, we cut out fragments of the corresponding shape exactly to the dimensions.

How to sheathe the ceiling in the attic, in addition to drywall

So we have considered the simplest example sheathing of the under-roofing room with dry plaster. However, this is far from the only option. In particular, it is quite possible to use moisture-resistant plywood, which can become the basis for decorative finishes, and ceiling alignment is also achieved using chipboard sheets, especially tongue-and-groove. Great solution in case of doubt, what to sheathe, OSB shields will become, which are interconnected very tightly in a groove-thorn way.

As an alternative to drywall, a stretch ceiling can be used, which is quite easy to install and in combination with dry plaster structures.

How independent option, can be used wooden lining or PVC siding, also proved themselves well in Lately aluminum slatted ceilings. All these materials do not require additional finishing, already being of high quality. decorative coating, truth, rack ceiling in the attic with your own hands is quite difficult to do. But plywood or OSB with chipboard should definitely be pasted over with wallpaper or lined with polystyrene tiles.

A modern attic is not a banal box lined with yellowish clapboard, but a stylish and cozy space for life. Owners of private houses no longer try to make a semblance in the attic ordinary room, but boldly open the slopes and highlight the floor beams. But how to finish the slopes so that from the main drawback of the room they turn into a highlight?

Exterior decoration of the attic

Outside, the attic most often looks like an integral part of the house, so the appearance of the gable matches the design of the walls of the facade. Trim the pediment of the attic:

facade decorative plaster;
siding;
decorative brick;
clinker tiles.

These options are suitable for cases where the gable is built from the same material as the walls of the house.

Photo gallery: houses with attics in the color of the facade

Wooden false timber has such qualities as environmental friendliness, durability, low cost and ease of installation. The high frost resistance of clinker tiles makes this building material indispensable in the harsh climatic conditions of Russia Walls finished with decorative plaster have increased sound insulation and resistance to dust and dirt. Before applying decorative plaster to the walls, they must be further cleaned and processed, and it is also worth high-quality plaster quite expensive Brick attic, like the house itself, requires major insulation According to experts, siding is considered one of the most durable finishing methods in the budget price segment.

Video: finishing the facade and pediment with a “grated fur coat”

How to sheathe the attic outside

Sometimes the pediment is trimmed with contrasting material to visually break the house horizontally and emphasize the height of the lower floors. Among the materials used:

corrugated board of contrasting or harmonious color(a popular option among those who at first did not plan to insulate the attic);
false timber or other wood (looks best on wooden houses and when imitating an alpine house).

Contrasting finish involves the use of different materials for the floors of the house, for example, from below - stone, from above - wood

Such solutions are used when refurbishing a house, when the pediment is built simultaneously with the roof.

Video: lining the pediment with clapboard

Interior decoration of the attic

Since the truss system of houses is made of wood, Decoration Materials attics have to be attached to this unreliable foundation. Even well-dried wood absorbs moisture from the air and tends to slightly change its geometry. Therefore, if such walls are simply sheathed with drywall and putty, the putty will inevitably crack over time. With the interior decoration of the attic, it is required to level this design flaw. This is done in two ways: using wood or fabric in the design, or creating an internal “box” of durable materials connected to the rafters with movable clamps.

Large windows and bright fixtures give the all-wood attic a modern touch.

Before proceeding with the interior decoration of the attic, it must be carefully insulated. Otherwise, all your efforts will go to waste - finishing materials will deteriorate due to seasonal temperature fluctuations.

Attic wall decoration can imitate natural stone, such a solution will look quite stylish

To date, the walls of the attic can be finished with any materials, but some of them will require more investment and sophisticated technology. For the floor in the attic, wood is most often used (from cheap boards to typesetting parquet) or laminate. The ceiling usually visually merges with the wall, so materials similar in texture and color are selected for their design.

Stretch ceilings in the attic should not be used. Although they will give the room a visual height, in the specific climate of the attic floor they tend to allocate more harmful substances and can cause damage to the rafters due to a violation of the microclimate above the film.

The use of lining for interior decoration

Wooden lining is exactly the material that, according to its characteristics, ideally matches the properties truss system, so it will not crack or weaken due to seasonal changes in temperature or humidity. In addition, no one doubts the safety and environmental friendliness of this traditional solution. Many even believe that it is the lining that gives country house comfort and rustic charm. If you also do not intend to deviate from proven solutions, then you can mount the lining in the attic yourself.

The type of lining depends on the presence of knots, cracks, rot, etc. on the surface of the wood, the more marriage, the lower the grade

Save the hint picture to your phone so that you don’t overpay for lower-class material when buying.

In addition to the type of lining, it is important not to make a mistake with the material. On the market there are panels from such breeds:

larch - an elite material with a high price and great decorative properties, it is not afraid of pests, rot, fungi, moisture;
Scandinavian pine - a beautiful wood of a pinkish hue and practically without knots, it is softer than larch and cheaper than it;
Siberian cedar - a material with an unusual texture and healing effect (releasing healing substances);
oak - durable dense and heavy wood of a peculiar dark shade, costs a lot, but also serves for more than 50 years;
linden - soft, light and very light, well suited for lightweight structures, self-assembly, do-it-yourself carving panel decorations;
domestic pine - a budget option, but high classes This wood is quite durable and beautiful.

Wooden lining is a versatile material that is suitable for both interior and exterior finishing work.

The better the room is thermally and waterproofed, the less stable wood you can use.

Video: how to choose the right lining

Installation of lining on the walls of the attic

Please note: before starting work, the lining should lie in the attic for 4–7 days so that its humidity and temperature balance with the characteristics of the room. If the material is not allowed to "get used" to the room, it will quickly deform.

If you plan to impregnate the wood with fire and fungicide additives, this should be done before installation so that you can carefully treat the panels from all sides. Try to use formulations that are as safe as possible for humans. It is not worth saving at this point, it is better to take more budget wood and cheap varnish than risk the health of future attic residents.

After preparing the material, choose the best mounting method for you. You can fix the lining:

wood screws into the groove of the lining (the wood from the bottom is deformed, but the fastening is simple, inexpensive and reliable);
Please note: the self-tapping screw must go deep at an angle
kleimers and self-tapping screws - special metal adapter brackets (the bar does not suffer, it can be reused, but additional costs for kleimers are needed);
Kleimers provide the wood with a little freedom, which prevents cracking of the dies.
staples of a construction gun into the groove (only suitable for soft light wood, you will need to fill a lot of staples);
The main advantage of using a pistol is that there is no need to use a large physical strength, fastening with staples is always very strong, reliable, durable, but at the same time, the staples can always be removed, and the material will not be irreversibly damaged
nails with decorative caps (used in men's stylized interiors when you need to emphasize the brutality of the finish).
Behind the large hats of decorative nails, it is easy to hide the head of an ordinary self-tapping screw.

The first three methods allow you to create a completely invisible mount.

The instruction for finishing the attic with clapboard is simple: you need to fix the planks to the wooden crate on the walls and slopes. If you want to mount the lining in a different direction, the crate is first attached to them (perpendicular to the lining), and then the slats themselves. Work on wall cladding with a block house (imitation of timber) is completely similar, except that it is more difficult to attach them alone due to the large thickness and weight of each panel.

Please note: you can’t do without self-tapping screws when installing the lining

If you do not want to hide the texture of wood, you can add variety to the lining wall due to the width and type of planks. Buy panels of 2-3 options, with decorative milling, embossing and combine them with each other. When buying, be sure to make sure that their tongue-and-groove mounts fit together.

Lining with decorative embossing, diluted with ordinary smooth, looks very harmonious and non-standard

In order for the walls from the lining to look harmonious, the floor will need to be finished with either a grooved board or a laminate similar to the lining in color or pattern (an exact match is not necessary, but something should unite them). The choice depends on financial capabilities and the condition of the overlap. If it is finished with chipboard, GVL or other slab material, you can safely glue the laminate or even vinyl tiles. If the overlap was made out with a draft board, it is better to finish it with boards too. But if you wish, you can lay slab material over the subfloor and attach laminate, carpet, tiles (vinyl or ceramic in wet and hot areas) to it.

Painted floorboards look very appropriate in the attic

Video: errors when installing lining

Decoration of the attic floor with plasterboard

Drywall is most often used when the owners want to move away from the traditional lining and timber towards a more urban interior with smooth walls. An important role is also played by the environmental friendliness of drywall. Since it is pressed from gypsum without glue and finished with paper, the material is not capable of harming human health and releasing any hazardous substances. In addition, the technology of installing drywall is familiar to most people who have done repairs with their own hands, which makes it possible to save on the work of craftsmen.

Drywall will create an excellent base for smooth background walls and help visually lift the slope.

The disadvantage of drywall in the attic is its low elasticity - when the tree "plays", the plasterboard is not able to follow it. Therefore, methods such as gluing the sheet to the base or fastening it with screws to the wall while simultaneously adjusting the position under the roof are not applicable. You need a strong steel crate, which will be attached to the tree with metal suspensions that can compensate for the movement of the rafters.

If pick up right size corrugations failed, you can take a cable channel with a rectangular section

If mice often start up in the house, use for warming stone wool, and place the wiring in a strong corrugation. This will help avoid rework and avoid unattractive external wiring.

Instructions for finishing the attic with drywall

Finish the attic with drywall as follows:

Assemble the frame for drywall using guides (PN) and rack-mount (PS) profiles with a wall thickness of 0.7 mm (it is better not to use thinner galvanized steel, it may not withstand the load). In this case, you can attach profiles directly to wooden elements crates, which was made when insulating the attic. If the weight of the crate is too large, you will need to install additional racks, fastening them not only with wooden frame, but also with metal guides through suspensions.
If you want to cut off the space under the ridge, it is worth providing access to it from another room
Lay the wiring in the corrugated hoses and take a few photos to make it easier to find the cable exit points after sheathing. Fix mortgages in places of fastening of chandeliers.
The mortgage for the chandelier is attached to metal racks using self-tapping screws
Start the sheathing at the top of the slopes, trying to arrange the sheets as much as possible so that the seams run parallel to the flow of light from the window. Then minor flaws when puttying the joints will not be visible. Fastening pitch - 25 cm. Be sure to widen the seams and maintain a compensation gap of 3–5 mm.
Please note: moisture-resistant drywall is used in the attic
Make holes for the wires in the places where the fixtures are attached and make sure that none of them were damaged during the work. As long as the walls are not covered with drywall, it is possible to stretch the corrugation with an additional or spare wire.
To avoid incidents with holes for wires, try to coordinate the step of the crate with the location of the fixtures in advance
Sew up the attic walls with drywall and make holes for sockets and switches.
Socket boxes should be installed in drywall before puttying
Prime the seams, fill them with elastic putty and glue with a special tape. After the putty has completely set, smooth the seams with emery cloth so that they do not protrude above the main surface. Do the same for the attachment points.
The seams between drywall boards must be completely aligned.

Further work depends on the desired effect. If you plan to sheathe part of the walls decorative panels, no further preparation is required. Under the wallpaper you will need a layer of rough plaster and its alignment. Preparation for painting is the most difficult: a layer of rough putty, a layer of fiberglass (you can stick it directly on the putty, it will help to avoid cracks), a layer of fine putty, sanding the walls. If you want to apply a thin layer decorative plaster, it is also worth playing it safe with fiberglass, but it is no longer necessary to putty outright.

In a low little attic, smooth plasterboard walls look the most harmonious.

Drywall is only suitable for walls and slopes; when using it, the attic floor will have to be finished with a different material. The same methods are suitable as in the case of lining. But if you chose drywall because of its environmental friendliness, the most logical solution would be to use gypsum boards.

Video: installation of drywall on the attic ceiling

Chipboard in the design of the attic

Chipboards are now used not only for the manufacture of furniture, but also for dry leveling of walls / floors / ceilings in wooden houses and attics. Most often, non-laminated panels with moisture-resistant impregnation are used. This allows you to further prime and putty the surface for painting or wallpaper. In the final version, the wall looks the same as plasterboard or plastered. But, thanks to the many times greater thickness of chipboard, you can safely mount hanging shelves on it, modular system storage, TV bracket and other weighty things (subject to the use of a special mount).

Chipboard has a number of advantages: strength, durability, resistance to high temperatures and direct sunlight, as well as relatively low cost.

The technology for mounting chipboard sheets is simpler than drywall, as they can be attached directly to rafters and wooden sheathing. Solid wood and chipboard interact well with each other, so metal mounts Not needed. But an expansion gap of 1-2 mm between the sheets is required if you do not want cracks to appear later. The seams are puttied with an elastic compound and glued with a special tape, so they will be invisible in the future. After that, the surface becomes even, smooth and suitable for finishing. As a decorative layer, you can use thin laminated chipboard or MDF panels with a finished end.

The combination of mirror and laminated strips is easy to mount on a chipboard base

Similarly, they are used for finishing GVL (gypsum-fiber sheets, aquapanels) or glass-magnesite sheets. Mounting technology, weight, durability and possible decorative effect practically indistinguishable from chipboard. The final choice depends only on which material is suitable for the price and which one is more convenient for you to work with.

Moisture-resistant chipboard for the floor with one-sided lamination - a reliable floor in the shortest time without losing height

It is convenient that all surfaces can be finished with plate materials at once - from the slope to the floor.

Finishing the attic with HPL panels

HPL panels appeared on our construction market back in the mid-90s, but so far only common in administrative institutions. In fact, this is an improved analogue of laminate, only HPL is pressed under more severe conditions, therefore it is not afraid of water and is most resistant to mechanical stress.

HPL panels make it easy to create rounded corners

Manufacturers offer a palette of more than a hundred colors, as well as panels with imitation different types wood, stones, metals, skins and skins of rare animals, many options with photorealistic printing. Such a finish looks very impressive and rich, and, in addition, it is suitable for the manufacture of shower stalls (neither chipboard nor laminate would withstand such humidity) and can be used in children's rooms and institutions. Manufacturers claim that the material is completely environmentally friendly. HPL panels are trimmed with ceilings, walls, floors, they are used to make furniture, so any trim can be used.

The disadvantage of HPL panels today is only one - high cost

Manufacturers additionally decorate HPL sheets with decorative embossing, milling, perforation. From it you can make openwork shutters or partitions in the attic.

Several fastening systems have also been thought out, from the simplest to self-tapping screws (even a not very experienced home master) to completely hidden. Panels with a thickness of 1 cm (maximum - 20 cm) can be mounted in the attic immediately on top of the vapor barrier and pictures and shelves can be easily hung on the finished walls. Thanks to this material, it is possible to finish the attic from the ridge to the floor within one working day (if you work together in a room up to 100 m 2).

If you want to equip an additional bathroom in the attic, HPL panels will help to effectively design it.

There is only one disadvantage of HPL panels - the price is from 7 USD. e. per m 2. Considering that the thickness of the material is from 2 mm, you will have to pay a tidy sum for covering even one wall with panels 1–2 cm thick. But if you are not on a budget, this material will save you a lot of time and provide an incredible decorative effect. After all, you can safely combine “rosewood”, “white marble”, “python skin” and bright colors without worrying about the compatibility and difference in the thickness of the materials (and this could not be avoided when using real stone, wood and leather).

By the way, HPL panels can also be bought in the form of flooring. In appearance, it looks like a laminate, but it is not at all afraid of water, which makes it more durable and safer.

Use of combined materials

If you do not want to make all walls the same, you can use the principles of combined finishing. Paying tribute to the fashion for sustainability, most designers are trying to use wood. But it may look different:

lining (ultra-wide or very narrow, laid in different directions or in the form of a pattern);
The combination of wide and narrow dice of different colors will give dynamics to the interior of the attic
boards with a live edge (using a contrasting substrate or in two layers);
If you do not want to give the attic the look of a hunting lodge, use unedged board only on one of the walls or in fragments behind the sofa and TV
panels made of glued solid wood or plywood (smooth large-format plates look best in minimalism and loft);
Plywood does not have to be left in its natural form, it can be painted or painted
vertical slats made of solid wood or glued from layers of veneer, which are mounted at a distance from each other and create a dynamic pattern (they work to raise the ceiling);
Rails attached to the wall will give the subconscious impression that there is additional space behind them.
paneled panels under the classics (in modern interior, eclecticism and fusion style, multi-format panels can occupy the entire wall and even go to the ceiling);
In order not to overload the interior of the panel of dark and amber flowers it is better to mount only from below
wooden wallpaper - thin wooden dies assembled on a woven basis (in fact, they differ little from bamboo wallpaper, but are made from more familiar types of wood);
Thin dice of wooden wallpaper will add variety to the interior with a completely wood finish
ceiling beams or false beams (located under the very ridge).
How sharper angle slopes, the more complex beam structures you can use

At the same time, it is not at all necessary to preserve the unique pattern and color of the wood. wooden surfaces often impregnated with tinted azures bright colors(light green, turquoise, red) or apply dense opaque paint.

Colored varnish helps to give the tree particularly interesting and non-standard shades.

It is also believed that in the combined interior there should be glossy materials. Since it is very important for the attic to expand the space upwards, the gloss can only be placed on the slopes.

Thanks to the glossy paint on the slopes, the light will fill the attic even through a small window.

Implement the idea with different materials:

glass with photo printing, fully transparent, colored or tinted to a translucent effect, decorated with a matte pattern;
mirrors made of enlightened (without greenery), ordinary, bronze or graphite glass (near such walls you can safely install furniture and hang pictures on them, this will help to avoid an “overdose” of reflections);
acrylic sheets, most often in juicy shades ( plastic panels very light and thin, mounted on ordinary liquid nails);
painting with glossy paints of any tones (the method is only suitable for perfectly aligned walls);
wallpaper with the effect of metal or satin (if the wall is made of drywall, GVL or chipboard);
glossy self-adhesive films (also require an even, stable base, but more reliable than wallpaper and cheaper than acrylic).

Chalkboard wall can be combined with built-in wardrobe fronts

Another important trend in the interior of the attic is the wall for drawing and magnets. Interestingly, designers offer such a solution not only to families with children, but also to young couples, lovers of decorating the interior with their own hands, as well as people who use drawing boards by virtue of their profession. You can make such a highlight of the interior with the help of:

applying a magnetic composition and paint for drawing with chalk (the wall will turn out black or dark in color);
alternately applying magnetic and marker paint (this way you can make a wall of any tone, but in order for the markers to be clearly visible, a light shade is applied on top);
pasting the wall with self-adhesive for drawing with chalk (manufacturers offer only black ones).

In the attic you just want to lie down and relax, and this should be facilitated soft walls. When a sleeping place or a seating area with a sofa is planned, a rare designer does not use this technique. Softness can be achieved:

upholstering the wall with foam rubber and draping it with a fabric that matches or contrasts with the upholstered furniture / bedspread (this is cheaper and you can do it yourself);
Velvet trim will turn the protruding roof element into a stylish art object
fixing soft panels on the wall (custom-made panels of the required shape and size are made from any fabric, customers are offered a huge variety of screeds - from the usual carriage to fantasy);
Soft wall panels are fixed so securely that they can be safely mounted on slopes and even on the ceiling
using soft stickers made of foamed polyurethane foam (they can imitate not only fabric, but also stone with brick).
Soft "stone" or "brick" - an unexpected solution for the attic interior

You can make soft not the entire wall, but only part of it in the recreation area or in traumatic places.

To give the interior of the attic a zest, you can also use panels with a three-dimensional pattern. Gypsum is the most common, but they are heavy and require a stable base. Therefore, it is better to buy panels made of thin plastic or light acoustic tiles. Both options look very attractive and modern.

Acoustic panels - an excellent decor for a youth interior

The main thing is to remember that there should not be too many raisins in the interior. If the room is done in soothing colors or shades of the same color, you may well use wooden planks, mirrors and 3D panels. But if you plan a lot of juicy tones, you should not overdo it with textures. Make a neutral base with a practical unobtrusive texture and pick up 1-2 non-standard raisins for it.

In a bright, calm interior, nothing will annoy you for sure.

Attic in the style of "cheap and cheerful"

Beauty and ecology - important factors, but many of them simply do not have enough money. Therefore, it is worth mentioning the cases when, after insulating the attic, you have to save on each self-tapping screw. Consider how you can make the interior cheap and not boring.

Scraps - not in the furnace

The first way is to use wood trimmings that are left after the roof was built. From the bars and dice lying around the corners, you can make spectacular mosaic wooden panels. They may look like:

"city of skyscrapers" - from bars of one or different thickness dies are sawn and stacked tightly to each other (the result looks like a city from a great height);
If desired, you can use bars of different sections, but the same squares look stylish
"complete chaos" - wooden trimmings are aligned in thickness, width or length and assembled into an arbitrary picture;
Assorted dice with different textures can also look attractive.
“anti-parquet” - the trimmings of the bars are split along the length with a hatchet and fastened with the smooth side to the wall, with the texture outward (you will need to remove the sharpest dangerous protrusions, but the result is worth it);
The fireplace near the firewood can be electric or generally painted
Another budget option is to make shallow shelves from scraps and put them in them. chopped firewood. If the wall is only covered with a membrane, before that it is advisable to tighten it with a cheap fabric or agrofibre to create a beautiful background for the logs.
Plywood
As a rule, expensive plywood is used for decorative finishes. But experienced designers argue that cheap plywood can serve with dignity and look presentable. Just feel free to rummage through the stack, and you will definitely be able to find 2-3 sheets that do not have any knots or darkening on one side. Among low-grade panels, there are surprisingly beautiful wood patterns with which you can decorate an accent wall in the attic. For better preservation, plywood will need to be protected, but this can be done with an inexpensive water-based varnish. With such a coating, it will seem even more spectacular and more expensive.
It is not necessary to use plywood in large volumes, it is better to combine it with other materials.
OSB boards
Oriented strand boards are so popular and affordable in construction that you may have your entire attic sheathed with them. If so, if you wish, you can simply paint the walls in suitable colors and proceed with the settlement. But when you want to make a stylish interior, it is better to combine OSB with other materials. In particular, the seams of the slabs can be decorated with a rope or wooden planks in contrasting tones.
OSB wall decorated with inscriptions looks very modern
OSB is also a good base for thick non-woven wallpaper, but if you don’t mind the showy texture, you can create an interesting visual effect with ordinary paper ones.
If there is no OSB in your attic, it is worth sheathing one of the walls with it. The unusual texture of the material will complement the interior well, even if you cover it with thick paint.
Plastic lining
High-quality plastic lining with wide dies and decorative patterns often costs more than wood. But to save money, it is not shameful to use the simplest, white and narrow. It will look good under the ridge, at the highest point of the attic ceiling. If you also left part of the beams open, at a distance no one will guess that your lining is inexpensive.
Choice plastic lining- this is a good reason to play with color
Chintz according to grandma's recipe
V Soviet times the decoration of walls and ceilings with fabric was very popular. The rich used brocade, and those who like to save with might and main conjured over chintz. This simple fabric with naive patterns is perfect for a nursery, as well as a Provence-style interior. Maybe it's time to dismantle the grandmother's chest and look for fabric cuts there? A single piece can be fixed with a construction stapler directly on top of the windproof membrane, and then decorate the seams with twine, a wooden plank or cord.
Patchwork can be made not only from fabric, but also from pieces of old unnecessary wallpaper or decorative paper.
If there was no chintz among the inheritance and store prices did not please, you can profitably dispose of old, but not worn clothes. With minimal sewing skills on a typewriter, it is easy to build a patchwork canvas. Undoubtedly, a wall of denim patches will look very picturesque and extraordinary in the attic.
It doesn’t matter what budget you have allocated for finishing the attic. The main thing is to use the suggested tips wisely and create your own interior, which will be convenient for you. Then your attic will undoubtedly please every guest.

December 12, 2016
Specialization: facade finishing, interior finishing, construction of dachas, garages. The experience of an amateur gardener and horticulturist. He also has experience repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing the guitar and much more, for which there is not enough time :)

I prepared this article for home craftsmen who want not only to sheathe the attic with drywall, but to do it right. Next, I will talk in detail about how the attic is finished with drywall. We will also look at common beginner mistakes so that you can avoid them.

Finishing technology

Attic sheathing with drywall can conditionally be divided into six main stages:

Stage 1: preparation of materials

First of all, to finish the attic, you need to prepare drywall, and there are two types:

wall - needed for sheathing vertical and inclined planes. Its thickness must be at least 12.5 mm;
ceiling - used, respectively, for covering the ceiling and sloping walls. Its thickness can be 8 or 9.5 mm.

It is advisable to use moisture-resistant drywall on the attic floor, as the humidity level here is often elevated.

Since the GKL sheets will be mounted on the frame, it is also necessary to prepare the parts for its assembly:

In addition, you need to prepare materials to putty drywall in the attic. For this you will need:

deep penetration primer;
reinforcing tape;
starting putty;
finishing putty (needed if the drywall surface is subsequently painted).

As finishing putty use polymer compounds. Their price is slightly higher than gypsum putties, but they are easy to work with. In addition, these coatings are not afraid of moisture.

Stage 2: preparation of the attic and marking

Finishing the attic has a number of its own nuances that relate to the preparation of the premises for decoration. Common mistake beginners is that they pay insufficient attention to this operation. This leads to a number of negative consequences, in particular, the durability of the truss structure may even be reduced.

Preparing the attic consists in doing the following with your own hands:

wooden roof elements need to be processed antiseptic impregnation protecting wood from all kinds of biological influences. Instructions for working with antiseptic formulations are usually available on their packaging.

then the roof must be insulated using mineral mats or other heat-insulating material. On the pages of our portal, I have repeatedly talked about the technology of attic insulation, so I will not repeat myself;
so that the insulation does not pick up moisture, be sure to cover it with a vapor barrier membrane.

After preparing the room, you need to markup. Lack of detailed markup is also a common mistake for beginners. This results in an uneven finish.

The markup process looks like this:

First of all, you need to decide on the location of the walls and ceiling. If the attic is large and high premise can be made U-shaped, as shown in the diagram on the right.

If you want to get more space, you can make the so-called "broken walls", as shown in the diagram on the left;

then you need to mark on the crate the location of the angles between the vertical walls and the inclined ones, as well as between the inclined walls and the horizontal flow. In fact, at this stage, the dimensions of the walls and ceiling are determined, on which the space of the room also depends.

To do this, first mark the points on opposite gables, then connect them with lines. To draw lines, you can use a paint cord;

then the points on each gable should be connected with lines. It is on them that the ceiling guides will be aligned.
After applying them, make sure that the ceiling lines are not deviated from the horizontal and are on the two gables in the same horizontal plane. To do this, you can stretch the threads between them, and check their position with a level;
the junction lines of vertical and inclined walls should be transferred to the floor in one vertical plane. To do this, use plumb lines to transfer several points to the floor, and then connect them with lines;
now mark the lines for the location of the PP profiles on the sloping walls and ceiling. To do this, mark points on the gables in increments of 60 cm, departing from the edge of the corners by 10 cm, as shown in the diagram below;

then, using a paint cord, connect the dots on opposite gables with lines. If the length of the cord is not enough, stretch the rope between the points and mark it manually;
on the resulting marking of the position of the PP profiles, the attachment points of the suspensions should be marked, taking into account the fact that the step between them should be 50 cm.

Stage 3: assembling the frame for walls and ceiling

Now you can assemble the frame according to the markup. The instructions for doing this work look like this:

prepare the guides according to the dimensions of the lines on the gables, then attach them with self-tapping screws or dowel-nails. In the process of attaching horizontal guides, be sure to check their position with a level;

then attach vertical wall guides to the roof slopes. Use profiles designed for, as the racks will not be attached with hangers;
now you need to fix the guides on the floor, aligning them with the markup;

next, cut the racks to the height of the walls and then install them in increments of 60 cm. The profiles must be fixed in the guides with self-tapping screws from above and below. In the process of fixing them, use a level;
now you need to install suspensions for ceiling profiles according to the markup, using self-tapping screws;

In the photo - an example of installing a PP profile in a guide

after installing the hangers, prepare the ceiling profiles and insert them into the guides. If necessary, the profiles can be "increased" using a special extension cord;
now the profiles must be fixed in suspensions. The most difficult thing at this stage is to align them. The fact is that the profiles bend under their own weight, especially if the span is long.

Beginners often do not pay enough attention to profile alignment. As a result, finishing the attic floor with drywall is uneven, which is noticeable even to the naked eye.

Therefore, first fix the profiles on the ceiling. To align them, stretch along the twine, which should be located on the same level with them. They will serve as beacons.

After installing the outer profiles, stretch the twine between them, i.e. place them across the rails, and set intermediate profiles along them;

install PP profiles for inclined walls in the same way;

then you need to attach jumpers to the profiles with a step of 50 mm, which will make the frame more rigid. Jumpers can be made independently by cutting, as shown in the diagram above. You can also use special crosses (crabs) for these purposes.

This completes the installation of the frame.

Stage 4: frame sheathing

So, with the most difficult stage of work, i.e. by assembling the frame on broken walls and ceiling, we figured it out. Now consider how to sheathe the attic with drywall. The essence of this operation is to fasten the sheets with self-tapping screws.

Despite the fact that in general the process is quite simple, it contains a number of nuances:

self-tapping screws must be installed at a distance of 250 millimeters from each other. The distance from the edge of the sheet to the self-tapping screw must be at least 10 millimeters;

the caps of the screws must be deepened by about a millimeter, otherwise they will not allow the surface to be puttied. At the same time, do not screw them in too deeply, because. in this case, the caps will break through the cardboard and the sheet will no longer be fixed;

the joints of the sheets should fall on the center of the profile. The presence of "hanging" seams will lead to cracking of the finish;
cut the sheets so that the seams are located with dressing, i.e. there were no cruciform joints.

The mounting process itself is carried out without any difficulties. The only thing is that it is advisable to mount the sheets on the ceiling with an assistant, since they are overall and quite heavy.

Stage 5: finishing the gables

Finishing the gables resembles plasterboard sheathing ordinary walls. This operation is performed in the following sequence:

step back from the pediment 4 cm and mark points on opposite sides on the ceiling and sloping walls. Then connect these points with lines;
project the resulting line onto the floor in a vertical plane using plumb lines;

immediately fix the wall guides on the ceiling and on the floor, aligning them along the marked lines;
between the guides on the ceiling and the floor, install vertical NP profiles, fixing them with self-tapping screws on the walls;
now step back from the walls 10 cm, and mark the gable in the form of vertical lines in increments of 60 cm;

on the vertical lines, make marks for the location of the suspensions. The vertical step should be 500 mm;
then install the suspensions according to the markup;

since the length of the uprights will vary, measure the length of the lines on the wall. According to the data obtained, cut the rack profiles;
now insert the prepared joint venture profiles into the guides and secure with self-tapping screws in the hangers. In the process of attaching the racks, check their position with a level.

In the same way, assemble the frame on the second gable. Then sheathe the gables with drywall, taking into account the above rules for installing the GKL.

Stage 6: drywall finishing

We can say that our drywall attic is ready. The only thing now is to reinforce the joints and prepare the surface for finishing. This is done as follows:

work should begin with jointing - cut chamfers from all non-rounded edges with a sharp mounting knife. The width of the chamfer should be about 5 mm. If the chamfer turns out to be uneven - there is nothing wrong with that;

now the drywall surface must be treated with a deep penetration primer. Apply the liquid to the walls and ceiling with a paint brush.

Treat hard-to-reach areas and seams with a paint brush. After the surface has dried, repeat the procedure;

after the soil has dried, it is necessary to reinforce the seams. To do this, the selected joint should be filled with a starting putty, applying the composition across the seam with a narrow spatula. After filling the joint with putty, level the surface - run a spatula along the seam.

Immediately apply reinforcing tape to the putty, and cover it with another layer of putty. Level the surface with a spatula.

In this way, it is necessary to reinforce all existing joints;

while the putty dries, you need to putty the caps of the self-tapping screws. To do this, type putty on a narrow spatula and simply run the tool over the cap;
after drying, the putty surface must be lightly cleaned with a spatula or even sandpaper so that the irregularities do not interfere with further puttying;
then the treated surfaces must be cleaned of dust and covered with soil with a brush;

Now you can start filling the walls and ceiling. For this work, use a wide spatula. Try to apply putty carefully and evenly so that the surface is smooth.
At this stage, glue the perforated corners to the outer corners to line them up and protect them from chipping;
after the putty has dried, it must be sanded with sandpaper or mesh with P100-120 abrasive. For convenience, use a special jointer, on which the mesh or skin is stretched;

Grinding is carried out in a circular motion. In this way, try to get rid of all the serious irregularities that are on the surface;

upon completion of grinding, the surface must be cleaned of dust and primed according to the scheme described above;
if you plan to paint the ceiling of the attic from drywall, then it must be covered with a thin layer of finishing putty. With its help, it is necessary to get rid of small irregularities and traces of grinding;
the puttied surface must be carefully sanded with a sandpaper with a fine abrasive. To check the quality of grinding, bring a bright lamp to the surface. If flaws are found, grinding should be continued, then the surface should be cleaned of dust again and primed.

To divide the attic space into several rooms, you can install drywall partitions. They are installed on the same principle as vertical walls. The only thing is that the partition space should be filled with mineral wool to ensure sound insulation.

Durable materials are used to decorate the walls and ceilings of attics. It is possible to make the surface of the walls smooth by applying drywall sheets for finishing. After equipping the interior of the attic in any style to your taste. Drywall can retain heat indoors better than plastic and other cheap materials. The finish of this material withstands low and high temperatures, and it is possible to attach mirrors, wall cabinets and shelves without much difficulty.

Drywall is ideal for finishing different rooms. It is not expensive. You have the opportunity to insulate the walls with additional materials, which will be located between the walls and plasterboard sheathing. Make noise isolation. This material is easy to install and does not require special care.

First, we carry out preparatory work. The roof should not have defects and let water through. Make repairs to the roof, if necessary, so that in the future you will not be disturbed by the ingress of water into the attic. And you don't have to redo the trim. This will save your time and money.

Check the condition of the beams. They should not be damaged by external factors.

Before starting the installation of the finish, the walls and ceiling should be impregnated with an antiseptic if the house is built from a wooden beam. After dry the room.

Rafter installation takes place in several stages. This method is common. If the finishing room is small, and the distance between the rafters is no more than 75 cm, you can not use frameless cladding.

Step-by-step instruction:

We purchase sheets of drywall;
We cut the sheets to size;
We attach the finish to a special glue;
We fasten drywall to the rafters;
We fix it with glue and screws.

Drywall should be 12.5 centimeters thick. If they are thinner, they may give in to bending in some places.

Internal corners are reinforced with a perforated corner. Then we take putty and close up the seams and fastening points of self-tapping screws with rafters.

Finishing the attic floor with drywall with your own hands

To finish the attic, many use the frame method. It is reliable and you have the opportunity to insulate the room with the help of special materials. You do not have to additionally use heating devices in conjunction with heating systems. You can also make acoustic insulation if you live close to the roadway.

Stages of frame installation:

We take measurements of the premises;
We buy everything necessary materials and tools;
We make installation of the crate;
We mount frame guides along the perimeter;
We fix the racks with metal screws;
We fix the crossbars;
Laying the wiring;
We put insulation in the cells of the frame.

Then we do the installation of the crate. We start with the walls. Its markings are transferred to the ceiling and floor. In this case, the vertical position of the racks should be monitored.

It is worth remembering: metal guides are fixed at least three points. The distance between the points should be no more than a meter.

Racks are fastened with self-tapping screws for metal in guides frame structure. The distance should be 40-50 cm between them. The frequency of the crossbars should correspond to the length of the drywall sheets after cutting. Before sheathing the attic with drywall, it is worthwhile to carry out all the necessary communications - wiring, heating systems. It is worth laying in the cells of the frame mineral wool. It is used as a heater. This material does not deteriorate under the influence of moisture and rodents.

If the humidity in the attic is high, it is worth tightening the entire structure with a vapor barrier membrane for greater protection.

After we sheathe attic floor drywall of the desired thickness so that the finish does not sag from impact. Thin sheets are susceptible to swelling during operation. So don't skimp on consumables then you don't have to change the cover again.

GKL attic sheathing

The principle of attic sheathing is similar to the process or concrete.

To do this, you need to purchase: drywall sheets (GKL), building level and tape measure, perforator, self-tapping screws, metal profiles.

Drywall (GKL) has a gypsum core. All planes of the sheet, except for the end edges, are finished with cardboard. Such a material has enhanced properties, since it contains special components.

For finishing the attic, drywall sheets of the GKLV type are suitable. They are moisture resistant.

Sheathing of the attic floor proceeds in several stages:

We cut sheets of drywall;
We fasten them to the profile at a distance of 20-25 cm;
First, we make the sheathing with solid sheets;
Then we make the installation of cut sheets;
We do finishing.

Horizontal seams should be offset relative to each other by 1/3 of the width of the sheet. If this happens during installation, replace the whole sheet with a cut sheet.

You can sheathe the attic floor with your own hands quickly and efficiently. To do this, you need to have all the necessary materials, tools and follow the installation instructions.

Finishing touches on the attic floor

Before finishing, it is worth completing the main work: seal the seams, hide the hardware hats, strengthen the corners, prime and putty the finished plasterboard walls and ceiling.

After puttying, the walls need to be sanded to remove excess putty and make the seams invisible. So you can achieve a perfectly flat surface of the walls. Instructions for puttying drywall joints are described in the article:.

We prime the surface so that the paint lays down without difficulty on the plasterboard walls and does not absorb it. At the very end, let the primer dry and begin to glue the wallpaper or apply paint with a roller.

Tips for finishing attic drywall (video)

You can independently equip the attic floor using drywall sheets for finishing. Thus, you will get smooth walls, hide all communications and be able to paste wallpaper. Finishing attic depends on your taste and design style of the room that you choose from ready-made options or design your own.