Lathing for plasterboard in the attic. Sheathing of the attic with plasterboard - fast and high-quality finish

In a private house, the question of the attic space is acute. Why waste useful area, if you can make of it living room... It is not very difficult to equip an attic for housing, if only such a desire appears. This room is set up under the attic and has a sloped ceiling, which significantly distinguishes it from other rooms.

Finishing the attic with plasterboard is more challenging task than the renovation of an ordinary room, precisely because of the sloped ceilings. However, it is worth it, because the created space will not only be beautiful, but also completely livable.

The attic can be sheathed various materials, of which there are many. Why should you opt for drywall?

An environmentally friendly material is always preferable to something of dubious origin. A plaster core wrapped in thick cardboard, what could be harmful here?
Cheapness is also a strong argument. Anyone can afford to buy enough drywall sheets to transform an attic into a living space.
Despite the use of cardboard, this building material is fire resistant. It does not burn, but can only smolder.
The drywall attic can be additionally insulated. This is possible due to the fact that gypsum plasterboard sheets are attached to the crate, forming a cavity into which insulating materials can be restored.
You can also hide under the skin power cables and other communications.
Sloped ceilings are very difficult to level conventional materials, but with drywall it will remain even.

There are certain nuances that can force you to abandon the use of gypsum plasterboards when decorating the attic. The fragility of drywall is its Achilles' heel. One blow is enough to break this material and render it unusable. Even a tightly screwed self-tapping screw can lead to unwanted deformation.

Drywall should not be used in new homes. If the house can shrink, then the gypsum board will not withstand this and will deform.

It is not very convenient to bring the overall drywall to the attic. And if the material is cut in advance, it can result in a lot of waste. High humidity and dampness in the attic will lead to the fact that the gypsum will absorb it and swell, which is also highly undesirable.

Selection of drywall

It is wrong to think that plasterboard covering of the attic can be carried out using a classic wall and ceiling plasterboard... You will have to use moisture resistant materials for the reasons described above.

GKLV has a greenish color and has excellent moisture resistant characteristics so that it can be used under a roof. Hydrophobic impregnation will do its job, and you will not have to be afraid high humidity... However, such sheets are very heavy, which is fraught with high loads on the ceiling frame.

Drywall weight
View	Sheet size (mm)	Thickness (mm)	Sheet weight (kg)	Weight 1 sq.m. (kg)
Stenovoy	1200x2000	12,5	22,32	9,3
	1200x2500		27,9
	1200x3000		33,48
Moisture resistant	1200x2000	12,5	24,24	10,1
	1200x2500		30,3
	1200x3000		36,3
Moisture resistant ceiling	1200x2000	9,5	24	10
	1200x2500		30
Ceiling	1200x2000	9,5	17,5	7,3
	1200x2500		21,9
Arched	1200x2500	6,5	18	6
	1200x3000		21,6
Fire retardant	1200x2500	12,5	30,6	10,2

Everyone will have to look for a middle ground on their own by choosing drywall.

Preparatory work

You can't just pick up and start carrying out repair work without preliminary preparation. It is not only about buying fasteners, but also about bringing work surface into the desired shape. Preparation includes the following points:

it is necessary to make sure that the roof does not leak or has any defects. It is best to check this in the fall, when it rains en masse;
in advance, you can determine the level of humidity in the attic using a hygrometer. It is useless to do such a check in summer because of the extreme heat. Perhaps the attic is made of such high quality that there is no dampness. This will give an idea of what kind of drywall to use;
wooden beams must be treated with an antiseptic, if this has not already been done;
before sheathe the attic with plasterboard, you need to decide on the places for sockets, lamps, ventilation, etc. After that, the wiring of communications is done;
we acquire expendable materials and tools: self-tapping screws, glue, gypsum board, profiles or bars, a screwdriver, metal scissors, building level etc. The set of tools may vary from case to case.

Plasterboard sheets must be brought into the room where the repair will be carried out for 1-2 days. The sheets adapt to the local temperature and humidity, which means they will not deform after installation.

What to make a frame from

Most reliable and the right method when sheathing the attic with plasterboard, it is the use of a special frame. However, in some cases, the sheets can be attached directly to interior cladding roofs. If the distance between the rafters does not exceed 60-70 cm, then you can safely attach drywall to them.

Fastening drywall to the wooden frame of the attic

If the attic area is too large, the rafters are far from each other, or it is planned to create an interior of a special shape, then you will have to create a frame. It is with its construction that the finishing of the attic with plasterboard begins.

The positive side renovation works is the fact that the attic is flat and there is no need to level the surfaces.

If you do wooden crate, then it is necessary to find bars along the length of the room and attach them to the rafters. Then drywall is attached to these sheets with self-tapping screws. If you use a metal profile, then everything will be a little more complicated, but finishing the attic ceiling with plasterboard will turn out to be of better quality.

You can learn more about how to make ceiling markings from the video.

Assembling a metal frame for lining the attic

Consider an example of performing work on one inclined ceiling. The rest, if any, are done in the same way. It is the sloped ceiling that distinguishes the attic, and the walls and flat ceiling are the same as in an ordinary apartment.

For work, you will need a guide profile UD 27x28mm and CD 60x27 mm. Attics are often larger than ordinary rooms, therefore, the length of the guides may not be sufficient. The Extension Profile Bracket will help you deal with this problem.

Along the sloped ceiling on adjacent walls, you need to attach two guides. A 5 cm distance from the ceiling will be sufficient. You can mark up in advance to make it easier to attach the guides. Moreover, special measurements are not needed, because everything is already even.

Profiles 60x27 mm are inserted into the guides so that they run parallel to the floor. We lengthen them if the room is too large. The step between the profiles should be 60 cm. At the junction points, they are attached to each other with small self-tapping screws. Be sure to go profiles along the edges of the sloped ceiling, where it connects to the wall and to the straight ceiling.

The recommended step between the profiles is 60 cm

So that the plasterboard ceiling in the attic does not fall off, we need to fix the hanging profiles with suspensions. The hangers are screwed to the ceiling in 60 cm increments. Before attaching the profiles to them, you need to make sure that there is no sagging anywhere and the ceiling will come out even. To do this, pull several threads across the profiles. The thread will show whether the profile is in the desired plane. Then you can attach them to the suspensions. Suspension ears are bent after installation so as not to interfere. Just do not bend them too much, they may still be required for laying the insulation.

Jumper setting for extra rigidity

The ceiling frame is not yet ready, because it lacks rigidity. For this purpose, jumpers are installed (60 cm step) between the just fixed profiles. For greater convenience, you can use special brackets with crabs, to which pre-cut jumpers will be attached. If you do not want to endure additional waste, then you can go another way.

Scheme of attaching the jumpers to the profile using crab brackets

The ceiling profiles are installed so that nothing comes out from the side. There are two options for solving the problem:

small pieces of guides are attached to the sides of the profile with self-tapping screws so that a jumper can be inserted into them;
the jumper is made a little longer, and its ribs are slightly cut off. The lintel, cut on both sides, easily lies on the ceiling profile, and then screwed to it.

Regardless of which method is chosen for installing the jumpers, the installation will be of high quality, and the frame will be rigid. In this case, finishing the attic with plasterboard will be successful. However, you still need to insulate the roof and sheathe the frame.

Insulation is an important step for creating a cozy attic

There are two ways in which mineral wool insulation can be used in a drywall attic.

The insulation is laid between the profiles, which fix it and prevent it from falling out. After that, sheathing is carried out with the help of gypsum board.
The insulation is laid between the profiles that do not fix it. In this case, partial fixation is carried out by means of suspensions, which are bent to hold the insulation. Scotch tape can also temporarily help, but the drywall sheets themselves perform the main fixation. In this case, finishing the attic ceiling with plasterboard is carried out in parallel with its insulation.

A layer of insulation is fixed with suspensions and in parallel the attic is sheathed with sheets of gypsum board

To make the first option possible, it is necessary to insert the same guides into the guide profiles instead of the ceiling profile. Moreover, they are inserted back to back to each other, so that there is where to start the insulation.

Insulation can also be fixed to liquid nails or other adhesives.

You need to know in advance the dimensions of the insulation in order to install the profiles at the required distance from each other.

Most often used for insulation mineral wool, which is available in the form of tiles or in the form of a roll. Insulation tiles have a fixed size, and the roll is fixed only in width, and in length it is cut based on current needs.

Fastening drywall to the frame

Directly the finish of the attic with plasterboard is more simple process than all the work that was carried out before.

It is recommended to install sheets horizontally to make it easier for yourself to work with sloped ceiling... They should be staggered so that the load is evenly distributed over the frame. Self-tapping screws with a length of 25 mm will be just right.

Plasterboard is screwed with self-tapping screws with a pitch of 15-20 cm. It is attached to the guides, to the ceiling profile and to the lintels. Although this is not an ordinary ceiling, there is still a slope, which means that the fixation must be reliable. In order for the self-tapping screws to hold the sheet better, they need to be twisted 1 mm below the drywall level. In this case, the sheet shell should not break through, otherwise such an attachment will be useless.

Someone prefers to use two layers of gypsum board for reliability, but this makes no sense here. Heat and sound insulation has already been installed, and a reinforced ceiling in the attic is not needed. The second layer will only create additional weight, which is not needed by anyone.

This completes the finishing of the attic with plasterboard, and all that remains is to carry out finishing of your choice. The main thing is to prime everything well and putty with high quality. The rest of the attic is sheathed with plasterboard in the same way. There should be no problems with docking in the corners, despite the presence of an inclined ceiling.

Finishing the attic with plasterboard helps to increase the usable area and hide defects in wall ceilings, creating a healthy microclimate.

it light material, which, with a minimum of labor costs, will not create a large load on the attic structure.

But finishing work with plasterboard sheets is carried out after thermal insulation of the room, since the material itself is not insulating.

Selection and calculation of building materials

So the attic space is a sub-roof space with conditions prone to high levels of humidity.

To calculate the required amount finishing sheets of drywall, it is necessary to calculate the area of the sheathed surfaces and divide the result by the area of the 1st drywall board.

The purchase of cladding material should be carried out with a margin. The need for other building materials and tools depends on the finishing method.

Preparation

Using attic room in the summer, preparation consists in removing the existing old coating from its surfaces and cleaning the wall and ceiling ceilings from dust and debris.

Finishing work does not start without checking the condition of the roof slab.

In the rainy season, weak spots in the roof will appear and then its timely repair will guarantee the absence of smudges on the mounted plasterboard sheets.

Beams and rafters are checked for their strength, dryness, and the absence of traces of rot and mold.

With a recently erected attic, the finish is postponed until its structure is completely dry, as this can affect the displacement and deformation of the drywall.

Fastening is done in 1 or 2 layers. Start with the side planes, leaving the headliner for last.

Warming process

As an insulating material, you can use polystyrene, the thickness of which is within 2-10 cm. When installing plates from this material, the joints are processed for tightness with polyurethane foam.

The disadvantage is the ability to create favorable conditions for rodents.

When installing mineral wool as an insulating material, dust, which is unsafe for human health, cannot be avoided. The layer thickness is within 2-20 cm.

Correct insulation technology requires the creation of a waterproofing layer from the inside of the plane, located with the porous part outward.

Therefore, surface insulation begins with cutting waterproofing material v right size and its fastenings between the rafters.

The material is stretched and secured with a stapler. Overlapping the edges of the waterproofer.

Tools and materials

Plasterboard sheets,
Straight metal profiles 2.5 - 6 m,
Corner metal profiles,
Suspensions,
Crabs,
Electric drill,
Metal spatula,
Long tape measure.

The frame can be made using a wooden beam, the moisture content of which is from 12%.

In this case, it will need to be pre-treated with antiseptics, which will extend its service life and protect it from decay.

Rafter mount

Finishing the attic with plasterboard with its attachment to the rafters is recommended for small room with a step between rafters up to 75 cm.

The advantages of this option are the speed of work, minimum costs compared to the construction of the lathing, and a minimum of physical effort during the installation process.

Minus - the possibility of difficulties in leveling the finishing layer due to the imperfection of the even arrangement of the rafters.

Therefore, to smooth this defect, a thicker material is chosen - 25 mm, since thin gypsum plasterboard sheets will be susceptible to bending and damage when the roof slab vibrates.

On a metal frame

Before fastening, the frame borders are marked on the floor using a paint cord. A similar contour is transferred to the ceiling with a plumb line.

The lines on the surfaces mark the locations of the frame elements.

The guides are mounted with dowels and self-tapping screws. Fixation of a separate profile section to the base is carried out in at least 3 places with a step of up to 1 m.

The hangers securing the frame are mounted vertically.

The installation of the racks in the guides is done relative to the vertical markings. Elements are attached to guides and hangers with self-tapping screws.

Plasterboard boards are fastened with self-tapping screws with a pitch of 25 cm.

With a capacity in height more for vertically located material, the fastening of its plates is carried out with an offset for the absence of long horizontal joints.

Installation on wooden lathing

The lathing is a frame structure made of wood, built from slats running across the rafters. Placing the battens in one plane using leveling shims.

Plasterboard slabs are installed vertically on horizontal beams.

The importance of this step lies in the final leveling of the plane. Wrong conduct this process will favor the appearance of cracks.

First, the seams are putty. An overlay of the connecting reinforcing tape is made with the passage of the seam relative to exactly its middle.

After the 1st putty layer has hardened, the thinner layer is reapplied to the seam with tape.

After it is completely dry, the filling is done with a 3rd layer. The grooves from the self-tapping screws are also closed. At the end, all the roughness is sanded.

Master class on the topic:

The resulting surface is primed and revetted with wallpaper, decorative plastering layer, or painted.

Share this article with your friends on social media. networks!

Finishing the attic with plasterboard - simple, economical
The article will tell you about finishing the attic with drywall

Often, the attic space in the house is made residential, because this is an excellent option to increase the usable area without high costs. Finishing the attic with plasterboard - perfect solution Problems interior design, allowing you to quickly make non-residential premises suitable for habitation.

However, this type of work is associated with many nuances, because the attic itself does not have thick walls, and it will be necessary to insulate and strengthen the entire structure.

What are the advantages of finishing the attic floor with plasterboard?

First, it is affordable and relatively inexpensive option to quickly make repairs in an initially completely uninhabitable room.

Secondly, at the exit, ideal smooth wall surfaces are obtained, which will facilitate them further finishing according to the conceived decoration plan.

Thirdly, even in an emergency (roof leakage) moisture resistant drywall able to withstand moisture for some time.

Fourthly, gypsum plasterboard is a very environmentally friendly material, since it does not contain anything other than paper and gypsum.

And finally, this simple technology installation that any homeowner can handle when minimum set tools.

1st stage: preparation

If it was planned to make the attic a living space at the construction stage, then all the nuances should be taken into account in the project. But what to do when there is such a need for a ready-made house?

Before transferring such a room to the category of residential, you first need to calculate the margin of safety for the overlap. In new homes built after the 80s, it is usually from reinforced concrete panels, and there should be no problems. But in old houses, it may be necessary to replace the entire floor.

At the stage of preparation, you need to insulate the room, since the roof consumes up to 30% of the total heat of the house.

Two main types of material are used as insulation - foam or mineral wool. The insulation technology is as follows.

Between the rafters to the surface roofing material mount the hydro-vapor barrier in the form of a special film.
By the size of the cells formed rafter supports, cut the insulation and put it on the installation site.
Another layer of vapor barrier is placed on the insulation material.
The surface is closed OSB plates, Chipboard or plywood.

The last layer in the form of sheets of one or another material can be omitted, but simply vapor barrier film fasten with insulation with longitudinal strips stuffed along the entire floor.

Also, ordinary PVC film cannot be used as a waterproofing layer. It does not have the ability to pass water vapor, as a result of which condensation will first form inside, and over time, mold and mildew.

2nd stage: materials and tools

Drywall in the attic is mounted according to the same principle as in ordinary living quarters, that is, on a frame basis. Accordingly, the selection of materials and tools is the same, namely:

Metal profile for CD and UD markings.
Fastening material: self-tapping screws, press washers, crab connections.
Hacksaw or scissors for metal, tape measure, level, screwdriver.
Drywall, preferably moisture resistant.

Also, the frame can be made not metal, but wooden. For this, a well-dried timber is harvested - the main and bearing rails. The tree should not only be dried. Before assembling the frame, all wooden parts must be treated with antiseptic agents to protect against mold and mildew. And in no case should you assemble the frame on nails!

3rd stage: assembly of the frame base

Finishing attic floor plasterboard is available in three versions: on a metal frame, wooden or directly on the rafter system.

Metal profile frame

First, it is planned to arrange all partitions, both wall and interior (if any).

And also the area on the basis of which the ceiling surface will be formed.
Usually, at some distance from the wall, a low partition (wall) is mounted. For this, two longitudinal guides from the UD profile are mounted along the room.
The carrier rails of the CD profile are inserted into the guide rails. If possible, you can do additional mount on straight hangers to the rafters. If necessary, transverse slats from the same profile are also mounted, connecting with each other with "crabs".

Self-tapping screws or press washers are used for fastening. The ceiling of the attic made of plasterboard is also mounted on such a frame. To assemble it, you may need suspensions with a thrust, since the length of the straight lines does not always allow you to fix frame structure... To assemble the ceiling base, the following work is carried out:

The lowest point is measured, and markings are made from it using the hydro level. All marks are connected with a marking cord.
According to the marks, guide profiles are attached to the rafters with self-tapping screws.
Carrying rails from the profile are inserted into them and fixed on press washers. If required, additional fastening to hangers or rods is performed.

With a significant length of the ceiling structure, the use of additional straight hangers or fasteners with rods is mandatory!

Also, longitudinal carrier rails are mounted, which are connected to the transverse ones using connections.

Wooden frame

For its assembly, two types of rails are used - main and bearing. The main ones are attached to the rafter system with self-tapping screws, they serve as the basis for the installation of load-bearing beams. Carriers - serve as a support for plasterboard sheets.

Also, if you do not plan to create walls and partitions, you can fix the bearing rails directly on the rafters, which in turn will play the role of the main ones.

For installation timber frame walls, there is the following algorithm:

Install longitudinal slats.
The frame racks are mounted on them, connected to the longitudinal rails using a mounting angle.
Insert transverse bars, securing them with racks.

If necessary, the frame is treated with an antiseptic and the installation of the gypsum board begins.

Rafters as a frame

You can also make a device for filing the attic GKL directly on the rafter system. Alternatively, you can mount the longitudinal slats, and then sheets of material are attached to them. And you can mount the gypsum board directly on the rafters using self-tapping screws for wood, this is the most cheap finishing attic floor with plasterboard. In this case, you can not even assemble the frame under ceiling structure... In this version, the plasterboard ceiling of the attic repeats all the shapes of the roof.

4th stage: how to finish the attic with drywall

The process is exactly the same as in a normal room.

Sheets of material, if necessary, are cut to size.
Fastening is carried out on self-tapping screws, pressing the caps into the surface by 2 millimeters.
If it is necessary to bend a sheet, then a cardboard shell is pierced at the bend and the material is moistened. Then the sheet is applied to the frame in the desired shape and fixed. When dry, it will take the desired shape.
Serpyanka is glued at the joints of the gypsum board and proceeds to further finishing.

The attic made of plasterboard, made according to the technology, will last a very long time and will allow you to increase the useful square of the house without significant investment.

Stages self-cladding drywall attic
The attic is often made a residential floor, but it requires renovation. How is the attic finishing with plasterboard, what you need to know for this, and what nuances should be taken into account?

Attic finishing Is the perfect solution to add another living space. Clapboard trim is most often used. But one of best materials drywall becomes for decoration. How is the attic finished with plasterboard?

Choosing a material

In order to qualitatively revet the ceiling in the country, it is important to choose the right plasterboard sheets.

It is important that the material has increased resistance to moisture. He shouldn't be afraid of water. Therefore, it is important to choose a green moisture resistant drywall.
Refractory properties are also important. Such boards are reinforced with mesh and include fiberglass additives. Such structures allow to keep the slabs from destruction in the event of a fire for several hours. The rafter system will not be damaged at all.
The best choice is boards that combine both fireproof and water-repellent properties.

GKL KNAUF (KNAUF) gypsum plasterboard 12.5 mm

Advantages of plasterboard ceilings for the attic

Due to the small thickness of the finishing layer, the area of the attic is not reduced.
The low cost makes it possible to sheathe the ceiling for almost any budget.
The installation process will not be as laborious as when finishing with clapboard. And full processing allows you to implement any design ideas.

The following advantages of the drywall sheets themselves are distinguished:

Environmental safety... This material is composed of natural gypsum and cellulose. There are no harmful additives in it.
High strength characteristics... Through it you can install mounts for lighting fixtures required for the ceiling.
High elasticity... If deformation of the main ceiling occurs, the gypsum board can bend, but it will not break or crack.
Water resistance... It is contented useful property, which will come in handy if, for any reason, the roof is damaged. In this case, the attic room will be protected from possible flooding.
Refractoriness... If a fire emergency occurs, drywall will protect the roof from fire. But at the same time, it is necessary to choose sheets with increased fire resistance.
Possibility of giving the desired shape ... If the material is wet on one side, it can be shaped into almost any shape. It will persist after drying.
Excellent compatibility with other materials... Even when decorating the walls with clapboard, a harmonious space is created.

Ceiling decoration features

Finishing the attic with plasterboard always starts with finishing the ceiling. This method is not only inexpensive, but also effective. It allows you to prepare the surface for subsequent processing. In this case, the walls can be sheathed with clapboard.

Installation materials

Plasterboard cladding requires the use of the following materials:

Moisture resistant drywall sheets,
Mineral wool,
Metal or wood profiles,
Fasteners in the form of self-tapping screws,
Reinforced tape,
Putty mixture for leveling and finishing.

Installation on a wooden crate

Sheathing can be done in one of the following ways:

The first method begins with the need for insulation and finishing of the entire surface inside. Hard-to-reach areas are involved, which are located between the bottom of the slope and the floor. You can successfully arrange pantries and cabinets in niches.
The second method involves fencing a certain part of the room. Plasterboard sheets are installed on a frame made of wood or metal guides.

First you need to make a wooden crate. Separate slats are fixed across the rafters at a certain distance. The section of individual slats is determined not only by the thickness of the plasterboard sheets, but also by the distance between the rafters. For example, with a rafter pitch of 100 cm, the slats should have a cross section of 60x40 mm.

The lathing is attached to the pediment using a dowel for this. Plasterboard sheets are fixed to the frame in 25 cm increments using screws. Thus, you can equip the ceiling in the country. Walls can also be finished with plasterboard, but you can also finish with clapboard.

Wooden frame for ceiling

Mounting on a metal profile

More often, a metal frame is used in cases where it is required to sheathe the ceiling. large area... This design provides increased fire resistance and resistance to physical impacts of the entire frame. The step of the rafters should be up to 100 cm.All work is performed according to the following scheme:

First, the hangers and brackets are attached to the rafters.
Profiles with a given pitch are screwed perpendicular to them. It is chosen depending on how thick the drywall is used. For example, a pitch of 50 cm is suitable for sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm.
Using self-tapping screws, self-tapping sheets are screwed. It is important to observe a step of up to 20 cm.
The ceiling is laid from below, and the next row is laid directly at the already installed row.

Plasterboard ceiling device

Final finishing

Attic ceilings are finished in the same way as other structures. Certain actions need to be taken. The seams between the sheets must be filled with putty. The surface is inspected for defects such as dents, holes and protruding fasteners. Everything needs to be put in order.

It is important to perform the following sequence of actions:

Treat the entire surface with a liquid primer,
Fill the joints and holes with self-tapping screws,
Reinforcement mesh must be glued to the joints,
A layer of starting putty is applied to the ceiling,
When the first layer is dry, a layer of finishing putty is applied,
When the surface is dry, it is sanded with a tool with an abrasive surface,
Do a complete cleaning of the attic, including debris and dust,
Apply a primer to the surface.

If you plan to decorate the walls with clapboard, choose a suitable color for the ceiling. If you want to create a light modern interior, you can use white or sandy finishes. At the same time, when decorating the walls with clapboard, it can also be covered with paint of a dense structure.

What to choose materials for finishing the attic with plasterboard
Finishing the attic with plasterboard is optimal, not expensive, effective and quick way make a loft-type room suitable for living.

Most owners of private houses, as a rule, think about how to make the attic located under the roof habitable, which will allow them to significantly expand the usable living area. As an option for a quick and not particularly costly solution to the task at hand, sheathing of the inner parts of the roof with any facing material, the choice of which is usually determined by the preferences of the performer, can be considered.

According to professionals, for these purposes it is most convenient to use drywall, which belongs to the category of fairly practical and relatively inexpensive building materials.

In addition to the fact that drywall has a very reasonable cost, that is, it is available to almost anyone who wants to - it has a number of unique properties which are detailed below:

First of all, the natural gypsum contained in this material contributes to the normalization of the indoor climate, absorbing excess moisture from the air and releasing it in case of lack. The specified property of drywall makes it indispensable for internal finishing works.
Attention is drawn to such a property of this material as its fire resistance, due to which, when exposed to high temperatures drywall does not burn, but only smolders, without emitting substances harmful to the human body.
Interior decoration with this lightweight and practical building material carried out quickly enough. The time spent on finishing works is incomparably less than when using facing materials of any other class. At the same time, the construction metal frame with its subsequent sheathing with sheets of drywall, you will need no more than 1-2 days; the same amount will be spent on finishing the surface.

In a room such as an attic, it is recommended to use a special type of this material, namely moisture-resistant drywall (VGKL), which does not deform in high humidity conditions.

The significant disadvantages of the material we are considering is its low strength and tendency to fracture even at low loads.

The attic is finished with plasterboard in stages, taking into account the mandatory preparatory procedures (including inspection and repair of the roof). Let's consider each of these stages in more detail.

Preparation for finishing includes two mandatory points, on the correct execution of which the success of the whole event depends.

First of all, before starting the main work, you should make sure that the roof of your building is in perfect condition and that there is not even a hint of any leaks in it. If you want the attic under construction to please you with its coziness and comfort, you need to worry about this in advance, since after the walls are covered with plasterboard, it will be impossible to correct the situation.

In this case, you may encounter such an unpleasant phenomenon as the appearance of smudges on drywall sheets, which most often appear in the spring-autumn period (especially during periods of heavy rains). In the event that your roof requires partial repairs, it is best to postpone the idea of finishing the attic with your own hands until better times.

In this case, it is advisable to wait for the rainy season, which will allow you to find all damaged areas roofing... Only after the final elimination of these damages will it be possible to proceed with the second point.

Second part preparatory work includes an examination of the supporting elements of the roofing structure, namely its beams and rafters, the strength and reliability of which should not cause any doubts. When examining them directly, be sure to make sure that dampness does not accumulate on these parts of the structure, as well as that there are no traces of mold and rot on their surface.

The wood elements of the frame base used must be thoroughly dried before installation. Such foresight excludes the possibility of deformation of the structure during its operation, which can cause displacement of the sheets. finishing material and the subsequent destruction of the entire finish.

Preparation of material and tools

For finishing work, you will need to purchase the following building materials:

plasterboard blanks;
wooden bars or metal profiles (for the manufacture of the frame);
a set of fasteners (including special hangers and self-tapping screws).

From the tool you will need:

screwdriver - it will be required when constructing the frame and securing the sheathing sheets;
building level, with the help of which the horizontal position of the fixing on the walls of the bars or profiles is controlled;
a grinder for cutting metal blanks of the required length or special scissors for metal;
tape measure and pencil;
a sharp knife used to cut drywall blanks (or a hacksaw for wood).

At small size of the attic space, it is allowed to fix the facing material on a wooden frame, made by stuffing thin bars and rafters on beams and rafters, then sheathed with sheets of drywall.

Preparation of a solid metal frame may be required in the following cases:

in a situation where fixing the sheets facing material not possible on the inner lathing of the roof;
with a significant size of the attic;
if you wish, give the interior of the room to be finished an unusual and original view, for which it will be necessary to make a frame of a complex configuration.

Installation of a metal base under the attic cladding, in essence, is no different from similar operations performed when finishing other rooms. In this case, first, guides are also mounted around the perimeter, into which so-called rack profiles are then installed with a step of 60 cm. When installing them Special attention should be given to the zones of the location of window and doorways... In these areas, the step of installing the profiles is selected so that the sheathing planes repeat the contours of the existing windows and doors.

When arranging a metal frame, you may encounter certain difficulties, consisting in the fact that during its preparation it is required to exactly repeat the contours of the roofing structure, which, as a rule, has a complex configuration. In the event that the owners strive to make the most of the usable area in the future room, they have no choice but to prepare a frame structure that exactly repeats the contours of the existing roof.

To make your attic warm and cozy - between roof structure and cladding (in the niches of the frame), it is imperative to place a layer of insulation, as which it is most convenient to use a material molded in the form of mats or plates.

The placement of the material in the places of laying can be done in one of the following ways:

free styling;
fixation with a special adhesive;
fixing mats or slabs with profile pieces.

The first method is preferable when the material fits into the niches very tightly, without a gap and is self-fixed in them due to compression. The second method allows you to securely fix the insulation on the surface treated with special glue. Well, in the latter case, which is considered the most effective, the plates insulation material they are reliably pressed to the plane by the sections of the profile remaining after the installation of the frame.

Sheathing of the frame with plasterboard is most often done in one layer; however, sometimes, in order to increase the strength of the formed coating, this material is laid in two layers. With a single-layer veneer, you can save material and possible repairs finishing coating, but the walls are not strong enough. The second option presupposes a greater expenditure of manpower and resources, but at the same time its use makes it possible to increase the strength of the structure under construction.

The procedure itself for single-layer plasterboarding of the attic with plasterboard is relatively simple and, as a rule, comes down to two simple operations. When they are performed, the finishing sheet is first applied to the sheathing plane (to the crate), after which it is fixed on the frame base using self-tapping screws (with a step of about 20 cm).

In the case of two-layer sheathing, one layer is formed first sheet material, after which the second row is laid on it with a slight offset.

On this, perhaps, the recommendations for finishing the attic with plasterboard end. Maybe you have any questions while reading this article? Then ask them to our specialist consultant. He will provide you with additional information.

Video

You can learn how to sheathe the attic ceiling with plasterboard from the video:

It is widely used for facing various broken surfaces. One such surface is the ceiling and slopes of the attic room. The attic is the upper room in the house, the ceiling and walls of which is the roof truss system of the house. The rafter triangle forms a broken surface of the attic ceiling, dividing it into the ceiling itself and ceiling slopes, surfaces located at an angle to the ceiling and walls.

Equip an attic, more often, on gable roof, with a broken or straight profile. Since the angle of the slope mansard roof are made in the range of 30-60˚, then any type of roof can be used for roofing. For example, you can use. The angle of inclination of the roof for tiles is from 20-60˚.

Plasterboard attic finishing - general information and material

Plasterboard finishing of the attic, namely the ceiling and slopes of the attic, is done on a wooden frame or a frame made of a metal profile.

For the timber frame, dry wooden bar sections 48 × 24; 50 × 30; 60 × 40 cm. The standardization of the bars is conditional and is associated only with the width of the straight suspensions, which are used in the metal frame of the attic ceiling.
For the metal frame, direct hangers and a ceiling profile PP 60 by 27 and a guide profile PN 28 by 27 are used.

The following fastening screws are used for fastening in the structure of the frames and cladding of the frames of the attic:

Screw TN 5x70. It is used to fasten the beams (load-bearing) to the structure of rafters and racks in wooden structure ceiling;
Screw FN 5x35 or two screws TN 3.5-4x25. They are used to attach straight hangers to ceiling and rafter beams.
LN 3.5x10 (metal-to-metal). They fasten straight hangers and metal profiles of the load-bearing, ceiling guides.

Description of the construction of the attic frame for drywall

So, we have an attic with a visible rafter system roofs. Closer to the ridge of the roof, the rafters are connected by a girder, and to the base of the attic, a frame for the attic walls is made of support bars. All elements attic structure wooden.

The design of the frame for sheathing the attic with plasterboard, regardless of the material used (bar or profile), is done in the same way.

class = "eliadunit">

The wooden block is attached directly to the roof rafters (1).
The metal profile is attached to the rafters on straight hangers (3).
If necessary, lower the ceiling and slopes of the attic, wooden block can be lowered using straight hangers (2).

In principle, this is the whole structure of the frame for the attic sheathing. Only the distances between profiles or bars change. The distances depend on the planned load on the frame, and it depends on the planned sheathing thickness. In the table you can see the dimensions of the bars and the distance between the rafter bars (a). Table 1.

Note: As in other ceiling structures, gypsum crate sheets can be attached along the guide bars (profiles) or across them. The center distance between the bars (b) depends on the planned fastening of the GK sheets. Table 2.

Corner joints of drywall sheets when facing the attic

Sheets of plasterboard of the ceiling and attic slopes will dock under obtuse angles... Docking is performed with the entry of one sheet under the other. With two sheet sheathing, the overlap of sheets changes: slope, ceiling, slope, ceiling.

After the walls under the slopes are sewn up with drywall, the guide profile is screwed along the laser:

This must be done from two sides at once, so that there is one level on both sides, if you want to get an even slope

Attach the guide profile only in those places where there is a profile under the drywall. Just screwing to drywall is useless.

Here and there he helped with his knee

In the end, it turned out like this:

Further, at the ridge, two suspensions are attached to each pediment. They should be on the same line (strictly parallel to the central axis of the attic). For this I also used a laser plane builder. He pulled a thread between them and fastened intermediate suspensions along the thread:

After all the upper suspensions are screwed on, we unscrew them Not completely, but only the upper self-tapping screw and bend it like this:

to screw the upper self-tapping screw into the ceiling profile. With a screwdriver, you can't get close to the top, this is the easiest way I have thought of.

The ceiling profile is screwed onto all suspensions from above and the suspension fixtures are returned to their place.

I set the lower edge of this profile along the thread stretched between the upper edge and the guide profile. To cling to the edges at the ends of the thread, I made the following adaptations:

We pull the thread and orient the profile plane along the thread:

This is very important because all other intermediate profiles will be oriented along this plane.

On the extreme rafters, a suspension is attached every 40 centimeters. A thread is stretched between the extreme and hangers are attached along the thread on intermediate rafters.

A level is placed between the upper profile and the guide and it is marked along it where the intermediate profiles will pass:

The easiest way is to first press the intermediate profile with a level. With a marker in the other hand, mark a) where to cut the suspension and b) where to screw the self-tapping screw into the profile. Set the level aside. Cut off the hanger and screw the self-tapping screws into the places marked with a marker. It turns out very accurately and simply in execution.

Each edge of the drywall must rest on something. This will require vertical profiles. Their location should be perpendicular to the central axis of the attic. It is very easy to do it with a laser plane:

Bottom edge vertical profile in this way it enters the guide profile:

The drywall frame is ready:

Sewn up with drywall sheets:

For the attic, I use a regular drywall Knauf... 2500 * 1200 * 12.5 mm. These are heavy sheets designed for walls. I deliberately went for it. In the attic, it is advised to use moisture-resistant drywall. I believe that if your roof is leaking, then you need to repair the roof, and not be covered with drywall from the leaks. And the damaged drywall is simply thrown away. Moreover, moisture-resistant drywall will not allow you to see exactly where you have a leak. In my opinion, moisture-resistant drywall should be used in rooms with natural high humidity- baths, toilets, kitchens and slopes at windows and doors.

How to press and screw a 30-kilogram sheet on the roof slope is a separate story, I'll leave it to you as your homework

1) Drainage tray LV-10.14,5.10 - plastic - 2 pieces - 570 rubles.

2) Profile PP 60 * 27 3 meters - 28 pieces - 1'540 rubles.

Total: 2’110 rubles.