How to hem the final ceiling yourself. The subtleties of filing a ceiling on wooden beams

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Ceiling in a private house: 13 steps to comfort and practicality

This article is about how to make a ceiling in a private house. In it, I am going to touch upon the problems of choosing the height of the ceiling, its structure and the selection of materials for its installation and design. Let's get started.

Height

Minimum

  1. What is the minimum possible ceiling height in a private house?

2.4 meters. By reducing the height even further, you will make the living rooms frankly uncomfortable: the ceilings will literally press on the inhabitants of the house, forcing them to constantly bend over.

By the way: already at a height of 2.4 - 2.5 meters, a person above average height will begin to cling to his head with pendant chandeliers and lamps. Checked personally: with a height of 186 cm, it is quite difficult for me to move freely in a typical Khrushchev or Brezhnevka with hanging light sources.

Optimum

  1. What is the optimal ceiling height in the house?

If we talk only about the subjective perception of the room - the more, the better. A tall room looks spacious even with a relatively small area. However, with a significant height of ceilings in full height, sorry for the unintentional pun, there is a heating problem.

Warm air tends upward, and in order to provide a comfortable temperature at floor level, it will have to be heated up to +30 + 35C under the ceiling. Excessive heating of air under attic floor means an unjustified increase in heat losses: they are always proportional to the delta of temperatures with the street.

The problem can be solved in two ways:

  • With convection heating (using either convectors) - the ceiling height is limited to about 2.7 meters. In my opinion, this height represents a reasonable compromise between comfort and heat savings;

Hint: the standard floor height in new buildings is exactly this - 2.7 meters. In most houses of Soviet projects, it is noticeably smaller - 2.6, 2.5 and even 2.45 m.

  • In addition, the distribution of heat in a high room will be optimal in the case of a warm floor - water, cable or film. It will provide a comfortable temperature at the level of human growth, without overheating the air near the ceiling.

By the way: in houses with a second light, underfloor heating and infrared heaters are generally the only heat sources that can provide a comfortable temperature regime... When using convection heating, there will be inevitable either heat at the level of the second floor, or severe cold below.

House with a second light. The only sensible heating method is underfloor heating.

Higher, higher

  1. How to increase the height of the ceilings in the house?

If you have panel or monolithic reinforced concrete floors, you can only change the visual perception of the height of the room, using tools from the arsenal of designers.

Which ones?

  • Light colors make objects appear more distant than they really are. The effect is accentuated by the contrasting coloration of the surrounding objects. Simply put, if you paint the ceiling white and make the walls dark, the room will look much higher than its actual size;

  • The same effect can be achieved by playing games with lighting. To increase the apparent height of the ceiling, its hidden illumination with spotlights or soffits is organized.

Overlapping with wooden beams gives much more room for a real increase in the height of the premises.

If the ceiling is hemmed from above along the bottom of the beams, it is worth removing the filing (usually a boardboard) and laying the flooring between the beams, along the cranial bars, or on top of them. Yes, and here the effect will be largely visual, since the beams will be only two or three centimeters higher than the old filing; however, the room will become much more spacious.

A more radical way is to physically increase the floor height. For this, alas, it is necessary to remove the roof, so the work should be timed to overhaul roofs. The height of the walls is increased due to several additional rows of masonry or new rims of the log house laid along the top of the walls.

The blockhouse can also be raised on jacks by starting under it additional one or two crowns.

Finally, in houses with flooring along wooden beams, it is often practiced to dismantle them with laying an insulated screed on the ground. The disadvantage of this method is that windows and thresholds doorways rise noticeably relative to the level of the finished floor.

How to raise ceilings in this way?

  • The floor is opened with complete dismantling of the flooring and insulation;

  • Beams are cut;
  • The soil is removed and leveled;

The subfloor must not be deepened below the level of the foundation. This is fraught with soil subsidence and wall deformation.

  • On the ground, a sandy or sandy-gravel cushion is formed with a thickness of at least 10-15 centimeters. It will provide drainage and no freezing of the soil under the floor;
  • On top of the sand, a layer of waterproofing is spread with an overlap on the walls (as a rule, dense polyethylene plays this role);
  • Laid out on top concrete preparation- a pillow 8-10 centimeters thick made of low-quality (M-100 - M150) concrete;

  • After gaining strength, a layer of insulation is laid on top - expanded polystyrene or polystyrene with a density of C-35. Thickness is determined by local climatic conditions. Usually it is equal to 40-50 millimeters;
  • On top of another layer of waterproofing film on supports with a height of 15 - 25 mm, a galvanized reinforcing mesh with a cell of 10-15 cm and a wire thickness of 5-6 mm is laid;
  • It is poured with a screed 8-10 cm thick. After gaining strength and leveling the surface in any convenient way (self-leveling floor, plywood, etc.), you can lay a finishing coating.

The concrete should only come into contact with the wood of the walls through the waterproofing. In her absence lower rims log cabins or wall frames will quickly rot.

Materials and solutions

Reinforced concrete floors

  1. What finishing options are used for slab and monolithic reinforced concrete floors?

The simplest (but not the cheapest) way to make the floor perfectly even is to order a stretch ceiling. In Crimea, where I live, it will cost from 400 rubles for square meter... It is useful for the future owner to know several features of this solution:

  • The minimum distance from the overlap to the tensioning curtain is about 4 centimeters. Accordingly, the room will become, albeit slightly, but lower;

  • The tension force of the blade is about 70 kgf per running meter baguette, which is attached to the walls. Accordingly, all walls must have sufficient strength in relation to horizontal loading. Plasterboard partitions are erected with a reinforced frame, and boxes of multi-level plasterboard ceilings for attaching a baguette are reinforced with profile bevels;

  • Glossy ceilings are made from the finest vinyl film. For its tension, the air in the room is heated by a gas heat gun to 65 - 75 degrees; after cooling, the canvas is stretched and made perfectly flat.

Gloss visually makes the room taller due to the ghostly reflection of its interior, which is an undoubted plus. However, the thin film is not durable: it can be damaged even by a shot of the champagne cork;

  • Matte fabric ceilings are cheaper and more durable than glossy ones. However, due to the peculiarities of joining the canvases, the seams remain visible on them;
  • If you plan to hide hidden lamps under stretch ceilings, the platforms for them and the wiring of electricity must be installed in advance. At the location of the luminaire, a reinforcing ring is glued to the canvas, after which the fabric or film inside the ring is cut out.

The overlap under the stretch ceiling should be pre-treated with an antiseptic primer. An airtight canvas will limit ventilation of the surface of the slabs or monolith, and it is advisable that the fungus does not take advantage of this.

How to finish reinforced concrete floor, if stretch ceilings are undesirable for some reason (for example, due to the low height of the room)?

The most obvious way is to level the ceiling with gypsum plaster (Rotband, HP Start, etc.), followed by puttying on the glass mesh.

In this case, do-it-yourself finishing is done as follows:

  • The ceiling is cleaned of whitewash and old plaster(of course, if they exist). This work is easiest to perform with a hard steel spatula, after two or three times with a short interval, having abundantly moistened the surface with water using a sprayer or a wide brush;
  • At slab floors, they are cut (cleaned of cement mortar old embedding) seams. Tools - chisel and hammer or small pick;
  • The entire floor surface is primed with an adhesive primer (concrete contact) with the addition of an antiseptic;
  • Lighthouse profiles are attached to the ceiling in level, in one horizontal plane. For their fastening, it is better to use not plaster or putty, but building plaster - it sets in 3-7 minutes, and not 30-40;
  • The plaster is tossed or spread over the ceiling with a medium trowel or rectangular trowel. After the area between the profiles is 1 - 1.5 meters long, the excess is removed with a long rule. The rule will have to go through each section several times, with re-filling of the gaps;

The plaster layer should not be thicker than 3 cm. If the differences between the floor slabs exceed this value, it is better to prefer a suspended or stretch ceiling.

  • After drying the plaster, we move on to puttying. Gypsum plaster (I personally liked ABS Saten the most) is applied with a narrow (10-12 cm) spatula on a medium (30-35 cm) and spread on the ceiling with sliding movements as thin as possible.

After puttingtying a section with a length of 1 - 1.5 meters, a reinforcing fiberglass mesh with a cell of about 2 mm is pressed into the putty with the same spatula. The second layer of putty covers the fiberglass mesh, completely hiding its texture;

  • The last step is grinding. For this purpose, I use an inexpensive vibratory sander with # 80 and # 120 sander for the first and second pass, respectively.

It is necessary to grind the ceiling under oblique lighting, emphasizing the slightest irregularities, and with the obligatory use of personal protective equipment - glasses and a respirator or gauze bandage. Gypsum dust is highly irritating to the mucous membranes of the eyes and nasopharynx.

  1. What is the best ceiling for a room with high humidity - a bathroom, a toilet or a bathroom with a toilet?

Here are the finishes that are most resistant to moisture:

  • Stretch ceilings already mentioned by me;
  • Plaster ceilings using cement mixtures... The technology of their application does not fundamentally differ from gypsum ones. If the gypsum is high humidity soaks and becomes plastic, then the cement completely retains its mechanical properties;

To level the surface over the plaster, use a white cement putty. It will show through the painting much less.

  • Suspended - from wall and ceiling plastic panels.

  1. How to build a panel ceiling?

For this you will need:

  • Ceiling guide profiles UD (27x28 mm) with a total length equal to the perimeter of the room with a small margin for trimming;
  • Ceiling profiles CD (60x27 mm) with a length equal to or greater than the length or width of the room (they can be 3 and 4 meters). Their number should make it possible to mount the lathing in increments of no more than 60 centimeters - with a larger lathing step, the plastic panels will sag after 1 - 1.5 years;

A tip from the Captain Obvious: the battens are mounted perpendicular to the panels. Maximum length panels can be up to 6 meters, so they are usually oriented parallel to the longer wall of the room.

  • Direct hangers are attached along each ceiling profile in increments of no more than 80 cm;
  • For their fastening and for mounting the guide ceiling profile, a dowel is used - screws 6x60 - 8x80 mm;
  • The profiles are connected to each other and to the hangers with self-tapping screws for metal 9 mm long. With the same self-tapping screws, but already 25 mm long, they are hemmed to the panel profiles;
  • The actual suspended ceiling is assembled from PVC wall or ceiling panels maximum available width with seamless tongue-and-groove locks;

Opt for white glossy panels. They are visually almost indistinguishable from a glossy stretch ceiling; at the same time, they are much stronger and extremely easy to clean: the surface can be wiped with a damp sponge with any non-abrasive detergent.

  • You can use vinyl, polyurethane or foam skirting boards to frame the ceiling and to hide its adhesion to the walls. The latter is the cheapest and easiest to install: it can be glued to walls and ceilings on any universal glue, sealant or acrylic putty.

The preparation of the floor surface is reduced only to treatment with antiseptic soil: a suspended ceiling, like a stretch ceiling, will dramatically worsen its ventilation and can lead to fungal infection.

The construction of the ceiling is carried out in the following order:

  • A ceiling guide profile is attached to the wall along the perimeter of the room in a horizontal plane. Mounting step - 50 - 60 cm;
  • Perpendicular to the panels on the floor, the position of the ceiling profiles is marked;
  • Along each of them, with a step of 80 cm, direct suspensions are attached with dowel screws;
  • Ceiling profiles, cut to size with metal scissors, are inserted into the guides and pressed against the ceiling with the suspension ears bent inward;
  • Several threads are stretched between the guide profiles, which will serve as guidelines for installation in the same plane of the ceiling profiles. Each of them is lowered until it touches the thread, after which the ears of the suspensions are attracted to it with self-tapping screws for metal. The free part of the ears is bent up;
  • Ceiling profiles are screwed to the guides;

  • Attached parallel to one of the walls is the first panel, cut to fit the ceiling.

Hint: PVC is most conveniently cut with a grinder with any abrasive disc. And in this case, protection of eyes and respiratory organs is important: fine plastic dust evenly fills the entire volume of the room and settles very slowly.

  • The panel is fixed to the profile at a minimum distance from the wall with self-tapping screws. On the other side of the panel, self-tapping screws attract the protrusion of its tongue-and-groove lock to the profile;
  • The next panel is inserted into the lock first, after which its protrusion is also attracted to the ceiling profile with self-tapping screws - and so on across the entire width of the room;
  • The last panel is again fastened with self-tapping screws passing through it at a minimum distance from the wall. The fastener caps will be hidden ceiling plinth;
  • The skirting board is glued last, after finishing the finishing of the walls.

Beam floors

  1. What is a rough ceiling on beams made of??

Here are the basic materials for filing a rough ceiling:

  • Trim and unedged board... A boardboard is usually used for laying insulation on it. The board can either be hemmed to the bottom of the beams or fit between them, on the cranial bars;

  • Grooved board;
  • Plywood with a thickness of 10 - 18 mm (depending on the pitch between the beams);
  • OSB of the same thickness.
  1. What to make a finishing ceiling?

Here are the finishing materials that can be used for this purpose:

  • Plasterboard and gypsum fiber sheet;

It is better to use not GVL, but GCR. Even if the sheet breaks during transportation or installation, it can be used: the fragments of the gypsum core will be held in one plane by a kraft paper shell. It is enough only to securely fix the gypsum board in the damaged area.

  • Wooden lining;
  • Plastic wall panels already familiar to us;
  • Plywood. Yes, yes, it can serve as a decorative finish. Plywood cut into squares is varnished; the gaps between adjacent sheets are closed with strip strips, painted in a contrasting color.

  1. How to install a rough ceiling on the cranial bars?

Its device is not complicated:

  • Bars 50x50 mm in size are stuffed on the side surfaces of the lag;
  • An edged board with a thickness of 20 - 25 mm, cut along the length, is laid on them (depending on the distance between the logs);
  • You can just as well hem the flooring with wall panels. They are attracted to the boards with self-tapping screws through the protrusions of the locks or sit on the glue. A starting profile or a plastic corner acts as an edging.

  1. How to hem a boardboard on the beams from below?

Each board is attached to the beam at the point where they intersect with two spreaded nails (at an angle with an inclination of different sides). This method of fastening will not allow the weight of the ceiling and insulation to pull out the fasteners.

  1. How to make a wooden ceiling with your own hands from lining along the beams?

The lining is attached through clamps - galvanized steel figured plates. It is better to fasten them to the beams with self-tapping screws. Cleamers allow, if necessary, to disassemble the ceiling without damaging the lining.

Galvanized kleimer is a simple device for fastening the tongue-and-groove lock of the lining to the lathing.

Ceiling edging is traditionally done with a wooden plinth. The transverse slots between the boards connected along the length are hidden by thin slats.

  1. How to fix drywall?

It is attracted to a solid board shield with self-tapping screws with a step of 20-25 centimeters. But when installing on beams or rafters (in the attic or in the attic) under the gypsum board or gypsum board, you will have to assemble the crate. I mounted it like this:

  • A vapor barrier film was hemmed along the rafters with insulation between them (5 cm of mineral wool and 5 cm of foam with a density of C-25). The goal is to prevent moisture from the insulation and rotting of the rafters. A furniture stapler was used for filing the film;

  • Guide ceiling profile The UD was attached to the gables. In my case, they are panoramic windows, so the profile had to be fixed directly to the plastic frames;
  • Along the attic, a ceiling profile was sewn to the rafters on straight hangers. At the joints of the inclined and horizontal sections of the ceiling, two profiles were mounted next to each other;
  • GKL sheets were attached across the sheathing profiles. I used 12.5mm wall plasterboard instead of the thinner ceiling, as the bottom of the sloped ceiling sections is only 1.9 meters high and can be mechanically stressed. For fastening, phosphated self-tapping screws 25 mm long with a pitch of 15 - 20 cm were used;

  • The seams were putty with ABS gypsum putty and glued with rolled fiberglass, planted with PVA glue, and then covered with another layer of putty.

The ventilation of the space above the ceiling deserves special mention. From there, air intake is organized by an exhaust fan through one of the attic gables; at its corners, four supply ventilation grilles are installed in the final ceiling.

In the photo there are grilles for ventilation of the space between the ceiling and the roof of the attic.

For painting the plasterboard flow, the following were used:

  • In dry rooms - study and bedroom - latex water-dispersion paint, resistant to dry abrasion;
  • In the bathroom - waterproof rubber paint on water based... It reliably protects the gypsum board from splashing water and can be washed with any cleaning agents, except abrasive ones. The texture of the painted surface is semi-gloss, with a slight sheen.

Conclusion

Of course, in a relatively short article, I did not mention all possible solutions. To learn more about how to sheathe the ceiling in a private house, the dear reader will help the video in this article. I look forward to your comments and additions. Good luck, comrades!

In most apartments and houses, floors and roofs are made of reinforced concrete, but there are also structures with wooden beams. Therefore, when repairs begin, homeowners have the question of how to sheathe them so that the surface takes on a modern and stylish look. Today, there are many design ideas, thanks to which you can decorate the ceiling in an original way, giving it a beautiful configuration.

Plating work does not present any particular difficulties, they are easy to do with your own hands, using various finishing materials for this. To do this, it is enough to develop individual project, choose the desired design style and perform a filing, after which the room will be transformed and filled with comfort.


Peculiarities

Ceiling lining on wooden beams is very popular in modern interiors, as it allows you to create modern designs that harmoniously fit into any design.


The main feature of such ceilings is that they consist of several layers.

  • Support beams. They form a base, are placed on the surface of the ceiling at a certain distance and are attached to each other with a bar.
  • Attic floor. It is a flooring made of wooden planks, which separates the roof from the slabs.
  • Insulation. Polyurethane foam, mineral wool and polystyrene are most often used as thermal insulation. This layer of the structure protects the room from cold air currents that can penetrate the roof or intermediate floors.



  • Vapor barrier. It is laid in order to prevent the accumulation of condensation and create an optimal microclimate in the room.
  • Draft ceiling. It is a coating that is attached to the crate; OSB boards, boards or plywood sheets are used as a finishing material for sheathing. The lathing is usually made from battens. After the installation of the rough ceiling, decorative cladding, with the help of which the covering is either completely sewn up, or simply hide the beams.

It is worth noting that the method of filing the ceiling is chosen depending on the height of the premises: if the rooms are small, then it is not recommended to mount multi-level and complex structures in them.



Scope of application

Wooden beams are found both in old-style apartments and in many country houses. They are usually placed around the entire perimeter of the room and are made from inexpensive wood species. Moreover, in rural areas, you can even see logs in the form of round timber. Beams in the structure perform not only the role of load-bearing elements, but are often the basis of the ceiling. If you think over the design correctly, then they can be turned into a wonderful decor element.

The ceiling in outbuildings and the garage is recommended to be hemmed with OSB plates or ordinary boards.

When decorating a design in a private house, both lining and drywall are suitable, which can be covered with plaster or painted in subsequent finishing.



In the rooms of the apartment ideal option the material will be made of natural solid wood for decoration, it will give the interior a special chic and fill the space with a pleasant aroma of wood. In living quarters, you can hide the beams under the hinged structures.

On the terrace, veranda, in the bathrooms, you can hem the ceiling with any decorative panels, but it is best to give preference to products that are not afraid of moisture and temperature extremes. As for the filing of the ceiling on the balcony, then they usually use plastic profiles, they adhere well to beams and withstand any climatic conditions. Apply given view finishes and baths. Wooden beams in this case are completely hidden under the clapboard.




As for office space and public buildings, then their ceilings are equipped with modular systems. They are easy to install, they look nice, but they are not suitable for home design.

Regardless of the scope of application, the false ceiling must be insulated and protected from moisture and steam. Therefore, a hydro-barrier is installed between the main and hemmed floors and thermal insulation is made of mineral wool.



Materials (edit)

You can hem the ceiling on wooden beams using various materials. Structures that combine original finishing options from several panels look beautiful, as a result, the coating is completely or partially even. Such a surface can be additionally pasted over foam tiles, textured wallpaper or paint with paint.



In addition, a variety of materials are used in modern design for cladding ceilings.

  • Fiberboard. Sheets of the product are cut in such a way that their end parts are located in the middle of the beam. Fiberboard is attached to the structure using wooden beams measuring 20 × 40 mm or fixed with special lags. To do this, recesses are cut out in the boards and an additional corner or bar is inserted. With this type of finish, it is important to ensure that the fiberboard panels do not sag. Therefore, they are nailed and laid with an offset seam or staggered.
  • Plywood. If the texture of the wood is not important for the interior of the room, then the ceilings are sheathed with plywood, it is attracted with self-tapping screws and nailed. In this case, you need to pay attention to the thickness of the beams, since this material is heavy. The thickness of the sheets is chosen depending on the distance between the lags. At the end of the sheathing, the seams are sealed with wood putty or mastic. Then the surface is well primed and covered with a finishing finish.
  • OSB boards(OSB). This material is considered inexpensive, easy to install, and easy to process. OSB slabs can be used to sheathe ceilings in any room. The only drawback of the product is the presence of resin in its composition, but if the material is made with high quality, then during its operation, the emission of formaldehyde will be small. Slabs are assembled quickly, since in their design they are similar to the lining and have special grooves. After such plating, the ceilings acquire a flat and seamless surface.
  • Drywall. It is the most common material for surface cladding, it can be easily attached to both wood and aluminum frame... With its help, you can create beautiful multi-level systems or simply insert an insert between wooden beams. After installing drywall, it is necessary to seal all joints; for this, a special construction mesh is applied and covered with putty.

OSB boards

Drywall

  • Sandwich panels... They are excellent insulation that can be easily joined using a special connection. The panels are screwed to the beams with self-tapping screws, after which they are painted. The material is produced with a matte and glossy surface, does not need additional processing... They can either completely cover the ceiling or make separate inserts vertically or horizontally.
  • Wooden lining... It is one of the most popular types of material that looks beautiful in the cladding of private houses; wood products are environmentally friendly and have a pleasant aroma. The ceiling decorated with a board maintains a certain microclimate in the room, absorbs excess moisture. If you install such a structure correctly, then it will last for many years and will act as good sound and heat insulation. Most often, cedar, alder, pine and oak lining is chosen for ceiling cladding. Its width ranges from 30 mm to 150 mm, and its length can reach six meters. Of course, such cladding is considered expensive, since, in addition to installation, the boards must be additionally coated with varnish, which, when dried, creates a protective film and makes the coating resistant to moisture.

With the help of varnish, the ceiling can be given both a matte and glossy surface. The lining is installed using a system consisting of a ridge and a groove. You need to fasten the boards at an angle of 45 degrees. Usually, a 25 mm thick edged board is chosen for cladding, it allows you to cover the entire length of the ceiling and does not create gaps.

Sandwich panels

Wooden lining

  • Tensioning system. As a rule, such structures are mounted after the completion of all finishing work. You can install the ceiling with your own hands, since installation does not require special tools and equipment. In order to fix the "French" ceiling, you just need to prepare a hair dryer, a spatula and choose a canvas by texture and color. In addition, before starting work, it is recommended to warm up the room well. Such designs look great in the interior and allow you to originally hide wooden beams, which often do not fit into the image of modern design.



  • Plastic panels. Outwardly, they resemble the type of lining, they are produced in widths from 50 mm to 100 mm. The ceiling sheathed with plastic has seams, so it is often also called rack and pinion. For finishing, you need to choose panels with a thin wall, they are much easier to attach to the frame and, if necessary, can be easily removed. In addition, such cladding does not require the installation of a massive frame. Usually, white plastic 25 cm wide is used for work, it is fixed to the beams with a stapler. If desired, you can use panels of various colors and textures, since the material is produced with a matte, glossy surface, as well as imitation of wood and stone. As a rule, plastic panels are installed in bathrooms and kitchens, where high humidity does not allow the use of other types of materials.

In addition, plastic can be used to sheathe not only living quarters, but also ceilings on the terrace, veranda or in the garage. They are easy to clean with soapy water, do not fade in the sun and ennoble wooden beams in an original way.



  • Siding. This material is ideally combined with any type of finish, therefore, allows designers to translate various ideas into reality. With siding, it is possible to sheathe both suspended ceilings in residential premises, and hide the structures of wooden beams on a terrace, balcony or veranda.




Mounting

It is quite possible to sheathe the ceiling on wooden beams with your own hands. To do this, you first need to prepare all the tools, finishing material, as well as glue and wood processing mixtures. In the event that the beams will act as the basis for the overlap, they should be carefully checked for the presence of mold and mildew. If there are defects, then the logs must be treated with an antiseptic solution, and cracks and chips must be putty.


After graduation preparatory work you can perform an installation consisting of several stages.

  • First of all, you need to create a vapor barrier and close the beams. This is best done with plastic wrap or parchment, which can be easily stapled. Then the logs should be knocked out with any rough material, most often an edged board is used for such purposes. If the ceiling turns out to be crooked, and the floors have differences in levels, it must be leveled.
  • The next step in the work will be the installation of thermal insulation., it will keep the room warm and keep out cold air currents from the roof or interfloor overlap... This is especially true for the cladding of the first floor in apartments. Mineral wool or foam is used as insulation.

You can also lay expanded clay, but it will require concrete puffing on an aerated concrete base.




  • After installing the thermal insulation, they are additionally laid vapor barrier layer. Today there are many materials with which it is possible to provide a structure with a natural air exchange, but the main one is membrane polyethylene.
  • The final stage is considered rough base device... The covering is sheathed with plywood or profiled sheet.



In the event that the work is carried out in a private house, then the finishing should be done, taking into account the functional purpose of the attic. In many buildings, it can act as a residential attic, or simply act as a non-residential space. For the attic, which will house a full-fledged room, it is necessary to add aluminum foil to the overlap layer, it will help to avoid heat loss in the house. In addition, when decorating the attic, a layer of sound insulation is laid, consisting of sawdust and mineral wool.

Boards, which are used for sheathing logs, are fastened with long nails and hammered into a rasp; they should be laid tightly, leaving no gaps.



Ceiling filing is possible with different materials: solid wood, foam, osb, PVC and gypsum plasterboards, clapboard, board, etc. Errors are often made during independent work. When I got down to work, the questions immediately arose: how best to hem the ceiling? Which material is better? What are the subtleties of the work? Let's take a look at the basic rules for filing.

Do-it-yourself ceiling filing

Surface preparation

When covering with foam boards, it is important to prepare and level the surface. You cannot work hastily, saving on glue, without removing dirt from the surface, without treating it with a primer, after which the tile falls behind, it is glued back, spreading more glue, without learning from your mistakes.
But this is not worth doing, especially since, having spent money once on thorough preparation of the surface, we can safely mount various structures on it, being sure of the reliability of the base.
Without preparation, we will have to check each time, or mount structures at random, hoping that everything will be fine, the neighbors may not flood, and the tiles may not fall off. I always carefully prepare the surface, putty defects and have never regretted it.

Don't work hastily to save on glue

Ceiling lining with foam plates

I often hem ceilings with this material due to the ease of installation, availability, good performance for noise insulation, and it will be warmer in a room with such a ceiling.
The main mistake is the absence of a primer and putty, the tiles are carelessly glued to a layer of dust, after which they soon fall behind along with a thin layer of dark dust that can be seen on the back side, this is because there was no primer that compacted upper layer creating an additional barrier for waterproofing. We will learn from the mistakes of others and make the installation correctly.
For installation it is better to use acrylic adhesive, whoever tried to replace it with a standard one at least once, will not give up on it.
It is also quite possible to hem with other materials. But it should be borne in mind that the principle of fastening the sheathing, the construction of the frame is not much different when replacing the sheathing.

Ceiling lining with foam plates

Sewing frame ceilings

Note that false ceilings and false ceilings differ in distance from the base; false ceilings are used for rooms with high ceilings. Hemming - on the contrary, with low ones, so as not to steal precious space.

There are 2 types of filing:

  1. No frame when the material is mounted to the ceiling.
  2. With a frame, when the filing is mounted to the crate.

Ceiling lining without a frame with plywood

The frame can be wooden or metal, the first is used to save material, improve noise insulation, in short sections with a constant temperature and normal humidity it is more advisable to use a wooden frame.
Metal is durable, it is often used on large planes to increase strength, it is a prerequisite for wet rooms. The frame steals 5–6 cm, which is less than suspended ceilings, but also more stretch ceilings.
For differences of more than 3–4 cm, I recommend using a frame for filing. According to technology, it will be much easier and faster than plaster, although the costs are about the same, but more economical and faster than a suspended ceiling, less costs, stolen space.

The filing is mounted to the crate

To seal the joints between the walls and drywall, tape is used, do not forget that for drywall it is very important not to fix it rigidly around the perimeter to the walls, plinth or stucco, the ceiling must be free to avoid deformation.

When choosing a filing, it should be borne in mind that drywall is less expensive than lining or plaster, but it is less durable, it will have to be changed every 3-4 years, those who are not ready for such sacrifices should opt for PVC or lining.

Installation of PVC panels

In this method, it is quite possible to place thermal insulation under the crate. A wooden frame with a section of 20 by 40 mm is attached on "quick assembly" or self-tapping screws, depending on the material under the crate.

Installation procedure:

  • The slats are located perpendicular to the direction of installation of the panels, at a distance of 40 cm from each other;
  • The places between the fixtures at the locations of the lighting fixtures are reinforced with two additional beams running across the existing ones, and we attach them to the ceiling and to the crate with self-tapping screws;
  • Then a mounting strip is fixed around the perimeter, having an angle of 90 degrees, the ceiling plinth enters into it, which is fixed at first, the first panel goes into the groove between the plank and the plinth, we attach the corners to the strip on the sides for attaching the plinth and strips;
  • In the places where the lighting fixtures are attached, we make holes and bring out the wires, you can fix the lighting on top of the panels, to the reinforcement.

Ceiling made of plastic panels

Clapboard sheathing

It is necessary to dry the lining well before installation, if it is damp. Before work, you should also install a vapor barrier film, carefully study the instructions so as not to confuse the sides, the joints are glued along the length with double-sided tape.

The rule is often neglected, it is extremely important to follow the recommendation in winter, when the material is compressed, if it is quickly fixed on the ceiling, it is fraught with a slightly convex surface, the appearance of cracks over time, which many attribute to low-quality material, and then everyone is advised not to install such a filing, they say , I've put it on, and it burst all over.

Ceiling lining

Craftsmen are often faced with such a problem: painted lining is often crooked, factories come to such tricks to disguise flaws.
Before installation, I recommend placing the lining on the floor with an edge, and see which curve is the most, and use it to bypass lamps and other elements so that they are even in the center, and the curves are not striking. Also, an uneven hem can be used at the beginning or at the end so that it is not too conspicuous.
The lining is installed with nails 40 mm long. As practice shows, they are quite enough for reliable fixation, because the weight of the lining is small.
In the case when the house is less than 2–3 years old, a gap between the lining and the walls is left in the region of 15–20 mm. During installation, it is important not to lose sight of the fixing points of the luminaires before final cladding. A similar scheme for filing the ceiling with a board, only the nails are selected depending on the thickness of the material.

Do-it-yourself ceiling lining with clapboard

After sheathing, the lining is recommended to be treated with one layer of primer or two layers of paint.
Ceiling filing is possible with other materials, no matter how to hem the ceiling, the main thing is to observe the technology of correct installation of various materials, they are mounted according to a similar principle. As my practice shows, these tips allow you to make a high-quality filing, using the entire resource of the material, replacing it only in case of extreme wear of the material.

Do-it-yourself ceiling sheathing from A to Z

Sewn ceiling is more popular today than in Soviet times - bleached. Today, answering the question of how you can sheathe the ceiling, you will not have to suffer, since a wide variety of finishing materials are presented on the construction markets.

In this article, we will review the most popular materials, so that the floor of its end, you will know exactly what is better to sheathe the ceiling in your own house or apartment.
As for the installation technology, you need to look for answers in other reviews, here we give only the characteristics of materials, advantages and rationale for the choice.

General for sheathed ceilings

The technology of their installation is not the pinnacle of development of modern engineers. That is, these are not even tension structures, which are problematic to execute with your own hands.

Neither need special tools and equipment, no high professional knowledge. And even the skills of working with building materials are not needed - mostly they are all cut with a knife or easily sawn, have a small specific gravity, are simply marked, attached through and through (or along the edges provided for this) with ordinary self-tapping screws, or on specially invented hardware.

According to the technology of mounting different ceiling coverings on our site there are many videos - after choosing the material, you can familiarize yourself with the order of work, "without leaving the cash register." It will also say how wiring and communications are laid inside - this is one of the general advantages of suspended or sheathed ceilings.

Another common plus is that no thorough preparation of the main surface is required for installation. There is a rough finish, the frame will keep normally - all irregularities and surface defects will be hidden behind the cladding.

Materials (edit)

Let's start with the market leaders.

Drywall - dominant

The most common material for cladding ceilings and walls today is drywall. It is suitable for ceiling and wall mounting. It is actively used in private construction and in the repair of public buildings. It can be found both in a huge, rich mansion and in the country - the material is incredibly versatile.

Pros of plasterboard ceilings:

  • Easy to mount;
  • Inexpensive;
  • Does not require maintenance;
  • Can serve for a very long time, if not permanent contact with moisture, since the surface is easily repaired;
  • Installation of such structures is very simple;
  • An additional advantage - under the skillful influence of steam or humidification, it takes bent shapes, which is very convenient when installing curved structures.

The same property of drywall is also considered a disadvantage: with an excess of moisture or under the influence of intense moisture vapor (for example, in the kitchen above a gas stove), the gypsum board loses its strength and deforms, up to complete crumbling. This means that the kitchen and the bathroom fall away. technical specifications material.

Advice! If you still have sympathy for GCR, then there are moisture-resistant options that are marked with GKLV. They have a green cardboard sheath and can be installed in rooms with high humidity. At the same time, its cost will be slightly higher than that of a simple one, but the difference is not critical - for a sheet you will overpay, on average, about 50 rubles, and the price, in general, is 300.

GKL is a rather heavy material (1 sheet with an area of ​​3m2 weighs about 25 kilograms), compared to other competitors, so you need to use a metal profile made of galvanized steel for frames.

  • Metal carcass assembles quickly enough, and has all the necessary accessories for this, which is purchased separately.
  • Sometimes you can see that drywall is installed on wooden slats or beams. This option takes place, but it is not devoid of certain disadvantages. Wood - the material is somewhat "livelier" than metal, it periodically expands and contracts from the difference in temperature and humidity.
    Therefore, such situational deformations negatively affect the weak gypsum board fasteners, reducing the service life of the structure.
  • As a result, cracks may appear. It is also worth noting the imperfect geometry of the rails, in contrast to the rolled profile.
  • Multilevel plasterboard ceilings with curved inserts - the standard of modern design in the house!

PVC panels

Also not too expensive material that answers standard requirements to false ceilings. They do not look so attractive, and, as they say, cheapness emanates from repairs, but with a skillful combination of materials, it can play in a special way. The material is great for cladding bathtubs and kitchens, and here's why.

Benefits include:

  • Ease of assembly of the structure;
  • The smallest specific gravity of the structure;
  • Ease of care;
  • The material does not allow moisture to pass through;
  • Durability and perfect non-susceptibility to fungi and mold;
  • A wide range of textures and colors.

Plastic products can be divided into panels and lining. The first ones are wide and are not colored in bulk, but only on the front side.

Lining made of plastic, like its analogue made of wood, is about 10 cm wide, while it is uniform in color, more durable and resistant to temperature extremes, which is why it can be used not only indoors, but also outside.

Advice! It is advisable not to use rough materials when washing the ceiling made of PVC panels, since the surface is not scratch resistant. Do not use abrasive detergents, the surface can be easily wiped off even with plain soapy water. Kitchen detergents can be used.

PVC panels and lamellas are sewn to the ceiling on profiles, also made of PVC, or on the most ordinary timber lath, which can be seen most often. In conditions of high humidity, instead of wood, metal profiles can be purchased, as for drywall.

You need to be careful during installation, since the material is fragile.

If PVC is not properly cared for, your ceiling will not last long. With normal installation and proper care, the original appearance of the material will be guaranteed to be preserved for more than 15 years.

Metal slats

One of the types of hemmed surfaces -. Reiki "metal" or real metal - is also a popular type of cladding fashionable ceiling in the house.

Advantages:

  • The material does not need additional processing, and the surface of the base needs preliminary preparation.
  • There are no flammable polymers in the cladding, fire safety is absolute. Spraying to give color to lamellas (slats) can be disregarded, it is no more than a few micrometers thick.
  • All such metal structures weigh practically nothing, they can be mounted on any ceilings.

There is a big minus - no sound insulation, like everyone else metal coatings... Therefore, the installation must be carried out immediately with a sound-insulating layer.

Advice! Metal slats can be mounted on the ceiling in different directions, and even pick up individual elements with different colors. It turns out very stylish, and most importantly - original!

It is quite simple to clean metal slats, but you need to be careful in cleaning, since scratches from abrasives and even rough materials easily remain on the surface. This is indicated by the instructions for, read carefully.

MDF panels and boards

Wood fiber is also an excellent material for fulfilling the cherished dream of sheathing the ceiling in a house or apartment.

Advantages:

  • Not bad for thin material keeps sound and heat (of course, everything is relative);
  • Certain types (moisture resistant, impregnated) can be used for rooms with high humidity - although the idea is dubious, and it is better to do with more suitable products;
  • Lamination allows long-term use and easy cleaning;
  • Simple assembly;
  • Low own weight, allowing the installation of lightweight frames.

Disadvantage: most of the commercially available MDF ceiling tiles do not resist moisture in any way, are highly flammable, and are not environmentally friendly material. They also have an easily damaged front side.

Wood

For all materials - material allocated in a separate group. This also immediately includes the lining, including the "euro" types of cladding.

It is enough to look at the numerous photos of wood-sheathed ceilings to understand the charm, comfort and beauty of the decoration. Wood has a myriad of benefits, including durability.

But the main thing is absolute naturalness and a property characteristic exclusively for wood, to create a favorable microclimate in the room.

Specifications:

  1. Wood retains heat better than artificial counterparts.
  2. The material is "breathable", as they say. That is, it allows air to pass through normally, promotes ventilation of the overhead space.

Of the minuses, the following can be noted:

  • The properties of the cladding will depend entirely on the type of wood chosen;
  • It follows that quality has to be paid a decent price;
  • Most of the tree is afraid of moisture, which requires you to regularly treat its surface with protective compounds.
  • The material is flammable and we assume special measures when installing electrical wiring.
  • Insects can settle in the tree, which will quickly render the sheathing unusable.

Advice! The last two disadvantages are also eliminated by chemical treatment.

Here are short answers to the problem with how you can sheathe the ceiling in the house. The installation technology and characteristics of each structure must be looked at depending on the selected material.

How to hem the ceiling in a private house, bathhouse, garage, dacha or veranda is not an idle question, because after the completion of construction, an ugly rough ceiling remains, that is, just a wooden floor made of bare beams and boards. But after all, without a high-quality ceiling, the finish cannot be considered complete, even in the utility room, and filing is an easy way to make the ceiling aesthetically pleasing, and at the same time insulate it.

Important. A false ceiling must be distinguished from a suspended ceiling. 8-10 cm of empty space is left between the suspended and the overlap, while the hem is mounted almost close to the overlap.

False ceiling device rules

  1. Unlike concrete ceilings in a city apartment, wooden ceilings in a country house or in the country can be hemmed with almost any material, and the beams can be beautifully beaten in the interior.
  2. Before starting work, the rough structure needs to be insulated and its air conditioning thought out.
  3. The ideal material for a bathroom is plastic because it does not mold or rot at all.
  4. Balconies are most often sheathed with plastic, metal slats or clapboard, because these materials are resistant to temperature extremes.
  5. Open verandas, gazebos, terraces are sheathed with plastic or siding, rack and cassette structures are suitable. Due to the low moisture resistance, drywall is not suitable.
  6. The bath requires a moisture-resistant and heat-resistant finish. You cannot use resinous wood, plywood, chipboard, plastic in the bath. The most a good choice there will be linden or aspen lining.
Rough ceiling before finishing stage

How to hem the ceiling

Wood

This is the best material for decoration. country house... Among its advantages are enviable durability, the ability to retain heat, beauty, the ability to give a room comfort and create a special microclimate. Materials of this group vary greatly in cost, so you can always find something for both budget and luxury repairs.

Plywood filing requires knowledge of some nuances. Plywood (except laminated) must be treated with an antiseptic, only then it will serve for decades. The frame is made of a bar, and in such a way that the edges of the sheets fall on the bar, otherwise they will sag. The sheets are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws, the seams are putty before painting the ceiling.

Inexpensive lining has always been a popular cladding material. The frame for fixing the regular and euro lining can be made from a metal profile or a bar. The frame is installed perpendicular to the direction of the lining. The lining itself must first be allowed to rest in the room for at least 48 hours, otherwise there is a risk that it will dry out or swell.


This is the easiest way to hem the ceiling. The frame is not needed, the boards are nailed directly to the beams, perpendicular to them.


Plain boards can be a miracle as good

Excellent finishing materials are produced from woodworking waste in the form of plates and panels, all of which can be used to decorate the ceiling in a private house. OSB panels, fiberboard and MDF boards have excellent thermal insulation properties and are beautiful. Thanks to double- or single-sided lamination, they are easy to care for - just wipe them off dust. The texture and color of the slabs and panels imitate natural wood, but they are much cheaper.

They weigh a little, this allows you to install simple lightweight frames under them. They are mounted on a pre-installed frame made of wooden beams. As in the case of plywood sheets, the joints should be on the block. Each slab is first nailed in the center and in the corners, then around the perimeter and in other places. Sheets have large area, while they are flexible, so you need to nail it with high quality, so that over time they do not sag.


MDF boards well suited for finishing a country house

Plastic

One more inexpensive material, which does not look as beautiful as wood, but has perfect resistance to dampness. They are used in bathrooms, toilets, kitchens. A plastic ceiling is a smooth and level surface overhead without the cost of painting. It is easy and quick to assemble even alone, because the material is almost weightless and is made in the form of narrow panels that one person can hold in their hands.

Frame under plastic trim in wooden houses they are made from a bar 2.5–3.0 cm wide, on concrete ceilings - from metal guides. The frame pitch is 50 cm, the panels are fixed with self-tapping screws. Finally, fix the perimeter of the ceiling decorative skirting board covering the joints.

Metal slats

Slatted ceilings are gaining popularity mainly due to the fashion for them. The slats can be metal (steel, aluminum) and "like metal". The great advantage of the material is complete Fire safety, the disadvantage is that there is no heat and sound insulation. Maintenance consists in regular washing without abrasive materials, since it is quite easy to scratch the slats.

The rack and pinion structure is very quickly and technically assembled without fasteners, like a children's designer, it is practically weightless. But nevertheless, it is better not to make such ceilings in wooden houses, but to hem concrete floors with them.


Metal slats are not afraid of moisture and do not rot, but the wooden floors under them quickly deteriorate

Siding

The siding ceiling will look appropriate on the porch, open veranda, a loggia or in a utility room, because it is traditionally considered a material for exterior decoration of houses. After practicing on the ceiling of the veranda, you can then sheathe the outer walls of the house with siding yourself. It is a very durable and moisture resistant material, has a large selection of colors and textures. Despite being used outdoors, it retains its color and durability for decades.

There are metal and vinyl siding. Vinyl, flexible and inexpensive, good for ceiling decoration... Simple installation on a branded profile and low weight make it possible to mount the panels to the ceiling alone. Vinyl siding can swell slightly from temperature changes, so during installation you need to leave an extra centimeter around the perimeter of the ceiling. Care is the simplest - water plus any detergent.


Hemmed with plasterboard, left the beams in plain sight for decorative purposes

Drywall

Plasterboard is a recognized leader for the construction of false ceilings in any living space. They trim ceilings in seasonal country houses, houses with permanent residence, in huge country houses like an old castle. It has the only drawback - it is not moisture-resistant enough, warps and deforms from steam and dampness.

Tip: the industry produces a more expensive moisture-resistant drywall for rooms with a difficult microclimate.

The frame for drywall is made from a profile or a bar of 5x3 or 4x4 cm, the sheets are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. For a false ceiling, in contrast to a suspended one, no hanging fasteners are needed, the sheets are mounted directly on the frame.

Video: filing with wooden beams

False ceilings do not “eat up” the height of the room. In a sense, making them is easier than hanging ones, and the conditions of suburban life make it possible not to think too much about how to hem the ceiling, to use inexpensive materials that cannot be used in a city apartment.

toppotolok.su

How to hem the ceiling on wooden beams in the house: the use of modern technologies

After building your own suburban home, many questions arise regarding interior decoration and arrangement of premises wooden structure... One of these questions that worries many people who have just built their wooden dwelling is how to hem the ceiling along wooden beams.

Immediately after construction, you can observe a rough base in the house, which does not always meet the requirements of aesthetics. In addition, such a ceiling easily lets out heat, so this type is unattractive for housing that is planned to be used all year round.

Without the construction of high-quality finishing of the rough ceiling, construction cannot be considered complete. The filing will allow you to forget about the unaesthetic space and will contribute to the insulation of the room.

How can you hem a rough ceiling

The rough base is a site for future finishing, which will include waterproofing works, insulation and cladding. The basis of the rough base is a transverse boardwalk, as well as beams that perform a load-bearing function.

Sometimes the ceiling space is not sheathed at the level of the wooden beams, that is, they are not sewn into a plasterboard box or leveled under the level of the beams to get a smooth, even surface. This option involves reducing the height level by a distance of at least 20 cm. Sometimes a method is used when the beams become an integral decorative element of the interior.

In most cases, sheathing on beams occurs using the following materials:

  • Wood;
  • Plasterboard sheets;
  • Plastic panels;
  • Fiber boards;
  • Siding;
  • Tension canvas;
  • Professional sheet;
  • Plywood.

It should be mentioned that the rough ceiling is not able to protect the space from the currents of cold air and moisture. Ceiling sheathing has not only aesthetic tasks - to hide the impartial underside of the construct, but also practical - to insulate the room and prevent moisture.

As a rule, for insulation, the filing is created in several layers. First, the basalt slabs are laid, then waterproofing is laid. And the final stage is the installation of the finishing layer - decorative cladding.

Varieties of cladding materials and their properties

Overlapping wood beams are often found even in the most modern varieties. country houses, and in dwellings made of wood - most often. A variety of materials are used for cladding the ceiling vault:


Basic rules for filing a ceiling

Wooden ceilings, unlike concrete counterparts, can be hemmed using various materials, while there is an option to make the beams a beautiful decorative element in the composition.

Before starting installation work, it is necessary to insulate the rough base. For bathrooms, a plastic panel finish is an excellent solution, as it will not rot. In this case, it must be remembered that before working on the cladding, it is imperative to treat the rough surface with an antiseptic.

Balconies and loggias can be beaten with plastic, metal slats or cladding boards - such materials are resistant to adverse weather conditions.

When cladding the ceiling vaults of open structures, such as gazebos and terraces, it is worth choosing plastic panels or siding. In this case, rack structures are also suitable. It is not recommended to mount drywall on open buildings.

To cover the ceilings inside the baths, it is necessary to arrange a finish that is resistant to moisture and high temperatures. An ideal solution for baths and saunas will be a cladding board.

An interesting option would be architectural carving on existing beams, after which the surface is treated with varnish or paint compounds.

Conclusion

Ceiling lining is not only a way to add aesthetics to a space, but also a necessity to help maintain a microclimate in a room. Competent paneling on beams can transform the interior, making it warm and cozy. To do the job correctly, you need to understand the intricacies of the selected material, as well as study the methods of warming and waterproofing the rough base. Well-done work will provide a reliable and beautiful surface that will last for many years to come.

Video: cladding a rough ceiling

derevostroika.ru

Good ceiling for a wooden house

How to hem the ceiling in a wooden house? From correct decision this issue largely depends on the comfort and safety that will surround a person.

If a wooden ceiling, despite all the ecological, functional, aesthetic value of the material from which it is made, is finished without taking into account the peculiarities of operation, many of its advantages will be lost.

High-quality work with a wooden floor requires not only attention, but also significant money costs. And in order not to lose them in vain, it is worth clarifying your knowledge of how the correct filing of such a ceiling should look like.

Ceiling structure

The principal feature of the ceiling of any wooden house stems from the fact that such buildings, as a rule, are built one-story. Often, the ceiling in them acts as a ceiling that separates living quarters from the attic or roof.

This means that he does not experience the increased loads of the upper floors, on which people can live. Therefore, when lining the ceiling in a wooden house, there is no need to use heavy structural elements with a large margin of safety.

It is often enough to take for this light wooden timber.

But it is the presence of an unheated (in most cases) attic on top of the ceiling that imposes special requirements on the wooden floor, despite the excellent thermal insulation properties of wood.

Good construction this important part of the building must be multi-layered.

This includes the following elements:

  1. Plank flooring. Performs the function of both overlap and floor of the upper level.
  2. Vapor barrier layer. Provides effective protection of the entire system from moisture contained in vapors that rise to the ceiling from below.
  3. Thermal barrier. Consists of one or several layers of insulation, which prevents heat from escaping through the ceiling and thereby maintains a comfortable atmosphere in the room.
  4. Waterproofing. Protects the wooden ceiling, its elements and insulation from moisture penetration from the outside.
  5. Hemming (finishing material). Represents the front of the ceiling. You can perform cladding with wood, plastic and other building materials.

Types of filing

Modern industry gives a very detailed and detailed answer to the question of how you can sheathe the ceiling in a wooden house.

Ample opportunities the following types of products are offered for interior decoration:

  1. Finishing components made of wood. This group includes a variety of options for lining, plywood, treated boards, boards and panels from woodworking waste. Experts consider wood to be the best material for ceilings in houses made from logs or planed lumber. Building parts made from natural raw materials perfectly retain heat, extraneous noise, are durable enough (with proper and timely care for them), have a very attractive ("warm") appearance, go well with the wood of the walls. However, they are quite expensive.
  2. Plastic slats and panels. Relatively inexpensive material, but it looks a little more modest than wood counterparts. Nevertheless ceiling elements made of plastic also have a beautiful appearance and one big advantage in comparison with wood - they are not at all afraid of dampness. Therefore, they are primarily mounted on ceilings in bathrooms, bathrooms, kitchens. Experts recommend paying attention to large glossy panels without seams.
  3. Plasterboard elements. A very common option for ceiling filing in living rooms. With their help, you can achieve the perfect evenness of the indoor vault. The poor resistance of drywall in relation to moisture is ranked among the few significant disadvantages: it warps from dampness.
  4. Siding. Despite the fact that this material was originally intended for exterior decoration buildings, recently it has become quite actively used for interior cladding ceilings. It is convenient for installation, moisture resistant and has a rich texture and color palette.

However, there are a number of materials and ceiling systems that do not look good in a wooden house.

In particular, experts do not advise using plastic lining with highlighted seams, tensioning systems, expanded polystyrene and polystyrene plates for filing ceilings.

Moreover, the main argument against their use is not the quality of these materials, but their poor aesthetic compatibility with wood.

How and what to sheathe the ceiling - it is up to each customer to decide independently to the best of their taste and financial capabilities. But in any case, it is useful to heed the advice of experienced builders.

Many experts when choosing optimal design the premises in general and the ceiling in particular are recommended to pay attention to the ceiling beams. They look very nice and a little mysterious, especially if they are dark on a light-colored ceiling.

Light ceilings, especially painted white, make the room visually higher.

When using drywall panels, it must be borne in mind that they differ in significant weight. Therefore, they should be fixed to the ceiling by means of an iron profile, which is screwed to the wooden flooring with strong self-tapping screws.

In areas with a warm climate, it is better to make thermal insulation of a minimum thickness.

A flawlessly flat plasterboard ceiling will look very impressive with a fairly large ceiling plinth.

Instead of a conclusion

The false ceiling is very convenient and relatively easy to install.

But deciding to do it yourself, you should not neglect the help and recommendations of professionals. After all, the customer ultimately needs a well-made ceiling, which will only emphasize the attractiveness of the entire home interior.

yapotolok.ru

How to sheathe the ceiling in a wooden house inside - instructions for finishing and photos

How to sheathe the ceiling in a wooden house inside so that it is beautiful, practical and environmentally friendly is not an easy question. Not all types of finishes are combined with wood - a material with a pronounced natural origin. When choosing, you need to focus on the design direction and texture of the walls. If this is a rustic style, then beams and imitation of logs will go, for a luxurious living room a smooth texture is more appropriate, new technologies - tension and suspended structures - fit into the modern interior.

Features of the device ceilings in a wooden house

The construction of the ceiling of a house made of wood has its own specifics. Due to the relatively light beam floor to which the ceiling elements are attached, the timber walls bear much less stress. A heat-insulating ball and a vapor barrier are laid between the beams, a rough ceiling is mounted under the insulation, and a half of the attic or upper floor is mounted on top.


Ceiling decoration from slats and beams

Draft ceiling - the basis for decor

The initial stage of finishing the ceiling in a wooden house involves the construction of a rough floor. For its manufacture, a bar is used, which is installed on the edge. By reducing the installation pitch, this method strengthens the entire ceiling structure.

With the help of nails, the cranial bars are fixed to the sides of the beams. They will be the basis for the surface of the rough ceiling. For covering, it is necessary to prepare boards by cutting them along the right size... Their length should be slightly less than the distance between the beams. Finished boards must be laid out so that a perfectly even coating is obtained.

Before hemming the ceiling along wooden beams, you need to perform treatment with antiseptics that protect the wood from pests, the appearance of fungus, and mold.


The device and the choice of material for vapor barrier

In order to limit the penetration of steam from the room into the insulation, a vapor barrier ball is mounted. The lack of moisture prevents mold and mildew from growing in the wooden part of the ceiling.

Exists different types vapor barrier films:

  • Polyethylene standard vapor barrier film. Serves to prevent the formation of condensation.
  • Foil vapor barrier with improved insulating properties and heat reflective properties. This film is best used in conditions high humidity.
  • Membrane film controls the amount of exit from the room humid air.
  • Membrane film with variable vapor permeability. The higher the humidity in the room, the higher the insulation capacity.

Vapor barrier layer in the ceiling cake

The vapor barrier film is first rolled out on the surface, after which it is wrapped and its edges are fixed. The ends of the material should be overlapped. If the film rests against ceiling or other elements, it cannot be cut. In this case, bend and fastening are made.

Thermal insulation layer to save resources

It is imperative to insulate the ceilings in a wooden house. It has been proven that up to 30% of heat loss occurs precisely through the cracks in the ceilings. For this purpose, you can use different thermal insulation materials:

  • Mineral wool. This versatile fiber material is made from mineral raw materials. Its advantage is that it does not burn.
  • Ecowool. Insulation made of cellulose and other non-volatile substances. Does not rot, does not support combustion, has good insulating properties.
  • Granular insulation. Its components are sawdust, antiseptic and glue. With good thermal insulation properties inferior in terms of sound insulation.
  • Styrofoam. Inexpensive and light material, which can be easily and quickly mounted. The disadvantage is that it supports combustion, mice often start in it, and over time, the foam can crumble.
  • Expanded clay. It is made from clay. This porous material has high fire resistance and increased sound insulation.

The heat-insulating ball is mounted on top of the vapor barrier film. Insulation should tightly fill all the space between the beams. To do this, the insulation in the slabs is cut, but not to size, but 2-4 cm more than the interblock distance. The mineral wool is stacked end-to-end, and a small gap is left between the foam balls, which must be filled polyurethane foam.

Methods for cladding ceilings for finishing

After carrying out work on the construction of the rough ceiling, vapor barrier and insulation, you can proceed to the cladding. An unequivocal answer to the question of which ceiling is better in a wooden house is difficult to give - there are a lot of finishing options. The final choice depends on the style of interior decoration of the house itself. The main types of ceilings are hemmed and suspended. But recently, there has been a tendency for the owners of wooden houses to tend to stretch types of ceilings made of film and fabric.

With the help of false and false ceilings, you can quickly, beautifully and reliably give the interior a finished look. Mostly wood is used for this purpose in a wooden house. But other materials also have a right to life.

The circuit is pretty simple. First, a frame is assembled, on which the coating parts are attached, which make up a solid pattern. The designs differ only in the presence of a suspension. The hemming option provides for the use of a frame that is rigidly attached to the rough slab.


Sheathing with a board or clapboard - design options and installation technology

Before making a ceiling in a private house, please note that for its cladding in a wooden structure, it is better to choose a board, lining, wooden or MDF. Plastic panels in this case will be inappropriate. For an original design, you can choose a laminate, and a block house looks great in a log house.

The attractiveness of the choice of wood finishes

Advantages:

  • Environmental friendliness. The panels, as well as the board on the ceiling in the house, are made of wood material without the use of resins and harmful phenol.
  • Design. The color, texture and width of the sheathing can be selected for each specific interior.
  • Water resistance. The material is not afraid of moisture, which makes it possible to install it in bathrooms, saunas, and kitchens.
  • Easy care. To clean the lining, it is enough to wipe it with a damp cloth without using any cleaning agents.
  • Functionality. All the necessary communications are easily placed inside the structure of such a ceiling.

DIY installation instructions

Technologically, the installation process practically does not differ and includes several stages:


  1. The last plank must be cut not only in length, but also in width, while not forgetting to leave gaps from the walls. In addition, it must be fixed by analogy with the first.
  2. Holes for spotlights can be made before or after installing the panels on the ceiling.
  3. Finishing work includes the installation of lamps and baseboards, the function of which is to embellish the interior of the room, as well as hide the seams between the ceiling and the wall. If desired, the material can be coated with a colorless varnish.

Plywood sheathing - an economical choice

The question: what can be used to make ceilings in a house can be solved by using ordinary or waterproof plywood as a filing material.


Advantages of plywood for ceiling decoration

This product has several advantages:

  • Naturalness. Natural components of plywood create a favorable indoor climate, filling it with the aroma of wood.
  • Low weight. The sheets will not create stress on the base.
  • Moisture resistance. Treated plywood works well in high humidity conditions.
  • Price. Plywood ceilings in a wooden house are an order of magnitude lower than most other options.
  • Strength. Due to the multi-layer, plywood has more strength.

Plywood is based on wood

Of the obvious shortcomings, only two can be distinguished: the material supports combustion and is afraid of water.

Two technologies for installing plywood sheathing

Installation of plywood on the ceiling in a wooden house is done on wooden crate from bars. For cladding, sheets with a thickness of 4-8 mm are used. Thin sheets can be installed on glue, thicker ones are nailed to the frame or screwed with self-tapping screws.

FK plywood is considered the most environmentally friendly. It has practically no harmful substances, and carbamide glue serves as a binder between the layers. Consider both options for attaching plywood sheets to the base.

Mechanical installation:

  1. During the initial fixation, the slab is placed in the middle of the bar and fixed in one place.
  2. After that, the plywood is aligned with other bars and finally fixed.
  3. For installation, nails are used, the length of which is twice the thickness of the sheet.
  4. If self-tapping screws are used, holes must be drilled under them before screwing into the panel.
  5. Fasteners are carried out with a step of 15-25 cm, and in the middle of the sheet - 25-45 cm.In this case, you need to retreat from the edge by at least 1 cm.
  6. An expansion gap of 2-3 mm must be left between adjacent sheets, as well as at the walls.

Plywood gluing:

  1. Sheets are cut into 2-3 pieces
  2. Glue is applied to the plywood, which is leveled with a notched trowel.
  3. After that, the panels are fixed to the base and pressed firmly for 1 min.
  4. It is important not to forget about the expansion gap.
  5. For gluing to a wooden base, you can use PVA glue.

Before hemming the ceiling in a private house, plywood must be kept indoors for at least two days. A jigsaw, circular hand saw, or fine-toothed hacksaw is suitable for cutting plywood.

Finishing - installation of the skirting board between the ceiling and the wall, as well as hiding the gaps between the sheets with the help of wooden slats, if they are very noticeable. The ceiling can be varnished.


Ceiling "pie" scheme

Practical and fast plasterboard cladding

Plasterboard ceilings are most relevant when it is necessary to level very uneven surfaces. There are two main ways of fixing drywall in a wooden house: on a wooden base made of bars and on a traditional metal frame.


Plasterboard in a house from a bar

Features of mounting on a wooden frame

A wooden frame for drywall is more suitable if the task is to make it simple single-level ceiling... At the same time, all kinds of flaws are perfectly hidden without losing the height of the room. But it must be remembered that only well-dried wood can be used for such a frame. High Quality.

Procedure:

  1. At the beginning of the work, you should determine the lowest point of the base, step back 5 cm from it and, using a level, draw a horizontal line around the perimeter of the room.
  2. After that, along this horizontal in a circle, fix the slats and bars along the length of the room with a step of 80 cm.
  3. To them with a step of 50 cm, perpendicularly attach supporting strips, which will become the basis for drywall.

Cladding technology on a metal frame

The metal frame for fastening drywall is more reliable. Its design includes guide profiles that hold the ceiling frame, and rack profiles, to which the plasterboard is mounted.

Installation procedure:

  1. By analogy with a wooden frame, the level of the ceiling is set and guide profiles are fixed along the perimeter using self-tapping screws or dowels.
  2. A guide profile is attached to them with a step of 40 cm.
  3. The whole structure is fastened with self-tapping screws.
  4. To increase rigidity, you need to use suspensions.
  5. If in the future it is planned to install a chandelier or plafond to illuminate the room, it is advisable to mount mortgages that will hold the lamp. For this purpose, several rack profiles must be attached to the frame in place of the lighting fixture.

Combination of drywall and wood

Mounting drywall sheets begins with marking drywall according to the size of the room and cutting it out. Plates are fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws every 25 cm. At the same time, their heads are slightly recessed into the panel. A serpyanka mesh is glued to the joints between the sheets, after which a primer, putty and drywall painting are performed.


Trendy and stylish beamed ceiling

Beamed ceilings in a private home help to decorate the interior with clean lines. This type of cladding can be carried out using beams from natural wood or decorative beams, or as they are also called, false beams. Both options have a number of advantages - ease of installation, natural origin, and attractive appearance.


At the initial stage of installation, a tracing cord is stretched, with the help of which the degree of horizontalness of the ceiling and frame is checked. The build quality of the finished ceiling depends on this.

As for the installation itself, in the case of wood beams, everything is quite simple: they are nailed or screwed with long screws to an already finished base.


The combination of beams with clapboard

Raised beams are a little more complicated. First, a frame is made. For this, you can use a metal profile or a wooden bar. The second option simplifies the fastening of the false beam a little. Decorative beams can already be attached to the finished frame.

They are screwed to metal profiles with self-tapping screws, and to wooden beams- nail down finishing nails... If the timber does not adhere tightly to the ceiling, wedges can be placed under it, and fastening with longer self-tapping screws.


Modern stretch ceilings

The problem - the better to hem the ceiling in a private house, can be solved with the help of stretch ceilings. They are film and fabric, they look good, they are great for wooden interior, easy to install and easy to clean. In addition, the film and fabric do not deform when shrinking at home. It is easy to hide communications above them, they are environmentally friendly, and in the version with the fabric there is a "breathing" effect.


Stretch ceiling in a wooden house

Practical foil decor

The installation of the tension foil should be started with the installation of the fastening profile. To do this, using a level, you need to apply markings around the entire perimeter of the room. The profile or baguette is glued along the marked line to the wall. When the glue hardens, it is recommended to additionally fix the fastener with self-tapping screws. Immediately, the marking of the locations of the lamps and communications is carried out.


Stretch ceiling system

Installation of a glossy film involves the use of a heat gun. At the initial stage, the canvas must be fixed in the corners of the room, after which the temperature in the room must be raised with a gun to 40-50º. After that, gradually moving along the entire material with a heat gun, place the edges of the film in a baguette and fix it securely. When the ceiling is already stretched, it must be allowed time to cool and take shape, then cut off the extra corners.


Glossy surface makes the room higher

A matte stretch ceiling is pulled manually and fixed in a baguette in the direction from the center of the walls to the corners. After that, excess material is removed. The final stage is the installation of the luminaires according to the markings carried out earlier.


Ceiling textiles

Textile ceilings for the elite

In contrast to PVC film, textiles have the ability to "breathe". In addition, the fabrics are very durable and retain their shape very well. Another advantage is the width of fabric panels, they are much wider than film competitors, which allows you to make a seamless covering in large rooms.

The installation process is similar to the installation method of matte film. The differences are that the fabric is initially fixed in the baguette in the center and further towards the corners every 50-60 cm, after which, to avoid wrinkles, it is evenly stretched over the edges. The corners in the profile are fixed last.

Regardless of whether you choose a wooden ceiling or a ceiling made of another material, the main thing is that it blends harmoniously with the interior and becomes a real decoration of your home.