The lower crowns of the log house: replacement technology and important nuances. Old wooden floor, floor replacement: selection of material and tools, selection of floorboards and timber, dismantling of the old floor

From this master class, you will learn how to replace the wooden floor in an old house with a concrete insulated screed on the ground. This floor is planned to be used for water floor heating. In addition, you will find out what materials you will need and their approximate cost.

Preparation for work

To carry out work on the reconstruction of the floor and prepare it for a water-heated floor, we have to do several operations: dismantling the old wooden coating, leveling the soil, filling pillows, laying insulation, preparing a mortar, pouring a screed.

To work, we need the following tools:

1. Buckets (plastic).
2. Construction level.
3. Owl shovel.
4. Rule.
5. Concrete mixer.
6. Fomka.

Materials that we need based on a room of 4x3 m:

Name	Unit rev.	Quantity	Price per unit, rub.	Total cost, rub.
Cement	kg	250	46	1150
Sand	kg	3000	0,30	900
rubble	kg	1000	1	1000
screening	kg	1500	0,60	900
Extrusion	m 2	12	263	3156
Styrofoam	m 3	0,36	1610	579,60
Total				7685,60

Dismantling an old wooden floor

We dismantle the old floors with a crowbar, not forgetting about safety.

Ground leveling

After the old floor is completely disassembled, it is necessary to remove all debris from the underground, and the soil should be properly leveled. You can use a rake or a shovel.

Pillow arrangement

After the ground is leveled, we begin to equip the pillow. We fill up a layer of crushed granite fraction 20-40 with a layer of 5 cm. We use crushed stone in order to protect the floor from mice. You can replace it with a small brick battle, or broken slate. The poured layer of gravel is lightly tamped.

Along the perimeter of the room, to compensate for the thermal expansion of the screed, foam sheets are laid. It will also play the role of a fixed formwork and insulate the ends of the finished slab. The thickness of the foam sheet is from 20 to 50 cm, no thicker is needed.

We pour a layer of sand up to 10 cm on the rubble. The sand must be clean, without debris and foreign inclusions.

Insulation laying

As a heater we use extruded polystyrene foam, at least 50 mm thick. Sheet sizes are standard 1.2x0.6 m.

The sheets have a “locking” device in the form of a “step”, this is clearly visible in the photo. When laying sheets, the locks are connected, and the surface is solid, without cracks.

Since extruded polystyrene foam (extrusion) is completely indifferent to moisture, waterproofing can be dispensed with. We lay the sheets, checking with a level that they lie flat. Pour sand in the right places and check again.

Mortar preparation and screed pouring

If the room is a walk-through and is actively used (as in our case), we fill the screed in two stages. First one half, then the other. To do this, we install formwork from a long board.

To prepare the solution, we need cement - 1 part, sand - 2 parts and granite screenings (a fine gray fraction obtained by calibrating crushed stone, i.e. granite dust and very small fragments of crushed stone) - 3 parts.

Advice on how to knead the solution if the components are dry: first we send screenings to the concrete mixer, then sand, then cement, mix everything thoroughly to dry and only then add water.

Advice on how to mix the solution if the sand or screenings are wet: first pour water 0.5-0.7 volume of a measuring bucket, then add cement, mix thoroughly, then sand, and lastly screenings. So you will avoid sticking of wet sand to the walls and, as a result, not mixing the solution. Then add water to the desired consistency.

The finished solution should not flow in consistency, but should not be too thick either. On a flat surface, when falling out of the bucket, it will spread into a “cake”, as shown in the photo below.

We carry the solution and level it with a rule, or a suitable board. The thickness of the screed should be 4-5 cm, it is impossible to be thinner, it may burst. If desired, you can lay a reinforcing mesh, but you can do without it, since in the future, when arranging a water-heated floor, the mesh will be used in the second layer of the screed. This screed is rough, and is only a preparation of the base for a warm floor.

After pouring, let the solution set for at least 48 hours.

We begin to prepare the second part of the room. All works are identical. We remove the formwork, clean the “locks” of the slabs from sand and lay the insulation. Do not forget to level each sheet!

We fill the second part of the room with cement mortar in the same way as the first part.

We align the fresh screed in thickness with the already filled one.

When the concrete is completely poured, let it settle for at least two days.

After all the work, we should get such a floor. You can already walk on it. The screed gains full strength within a month. At this time, it is desirable to moisten it by watering it twice a day from a watering can. In the future, on this basis, a warm floor based on water heating will be made.

Alexander Birzhin, rmnt.ru

Replacing the lower rims of a wooden house is usually not necessary, but only if it is built from quality dried lumber and the right technology is used. Having fulfilled these conditions, the replacement of the lower rims may be required after fifty years or more. Winter felling forest that has undergone drying and antiseptic treatment, a house roof structure with wide roof overhangs to protect walls from blocking in rain and snow, reliable waterproofing of the foundation and cut-offs, cutting corners and sampling longitudinal grooves in accordance with the rules of technology, all these and many other rules better to follow. But if there is a need for a complete and partial replacement of the lower rims, such methods are available. These works are considered extremely time-consuming and complex and require knowledge and experience.

Methods for replacing and restoring rotten lower rims of a log house

At the very beginning of the “process”, when the owner discovers that the lower chords of the logs are starting to rot, and the logs are not damaged to a great depth or are only partially damaged along the length of the crowns, cosmetic repairs are possible.

Cosmetic repair of the lower rims

This method will not give a solution to the problem for decades. In addition, when cutting and replacing part of the crowns, a large number of new joints and cold bridges will inevitably appear, and violations of the integrity of the supporting crowns of the frame will lead to the fact that the entire frame will lose some of its strength, rigidity and stability. And yet this method is, although temporary, but a way out. In order to cut out the rotten sections of the lower rims of the walls and replace them with new ones, you will not need special equipment and large financial investments. This method is quite simple and affordable for doing it yourself.

Partial brickwork

An accessible method of repairing the lower rims of log walls is possible in case of local damage to the rims. If you need to replace a small area, then it is replaced with brickwork, sequentially. Cutting out the rotten sections in parts, instead of them, laying of ceramic bricks on a cement-sand mortar is removed.

Replacing the lower rims

Another method of solving the problem of the loss of bearing capacity of the lower rims as a result of decay is cardinal, high-cost and long, comparable to new construction. Although completely effective. They completely dismantle the walls of the house, replace rotten elements, and partially, if possible, restore the horizontal waterproofing of the foundation. An additional plus of this method is that it is possible to replace not only the lower, but also the upper crowns of the house, if necessary.

The third method of reconstruction requires dismantling the upper part of the foundation, after which the lower rotten parts of the crowns are replaced and the structures and waterproofing of the foundation are restored. A serious disadvantage of this technique is that any violations of the existing structure of the foundation, balance and joint work of the foundation and foundation soils, as a rule, have an extremely negative effect on the bearing capacity of the foundation and the house, and as a result, on their service life.

Replacing the lower rims with jacking

The most reliable and high-quality method of repairing wooden houses, as well as the most economical, is the replacement of the lower belts of the log house with lifting by jacks. Together with replaceable crowns, it is possible to repair the foundation, in whole or in part, and to reinforce the waterproofing.

When performing lifting and repair technology, the geometric dimensions of the house do not change, the strength and stability of structures does not decrease. Which technology to use depends on the condition of the log house. If the walls are in good condition, all the crowns are securely connected, then it is possible to raise the house using jacks. In case of violation of the dressing and integrity of the walls by the processes of decay, there is a need to use stationary support frames.

The required number of jacks - two, four or more, is calculated depending on the length of the walls of the house. To install the supporting parts of the jacks, sections with rot-damaged crowns are cut in the lower parts of the walls with a chain saw.

After installing the jacks, the wall is raised as evenly as possible, very slowly. They raise it so that it is possible to freely remove and replace the rotten crown. Reinforcement elements from new logs are installed in the walls in parts - short segments are wound up and mounted from the corners, and the middle one, of the greatest length, is installed in the gap between the jacks.

After the log house is lowered into place and the jacks are removed, the holes remaining after their installation are tightly sealed with pieces of logs, with insulation and sealing of the joints with linen, jute fiber or tow seals.

When repairing, it is necessary to carry out antiseptic treatment, as high as possible, using modern wood protection products. Old methods of bituminization or lubrication of logs by mining do not give a sufficient long-term effect, and sometimes harm the tree, due to clogging of the pores of the wood. Currently, there is a large selection of antiseptics and wood bioprotection preparations that are odorless, harmless to health and do not damage the facade of the house, with excellent antiseptic properties. The quality of the impregnation directly affects the durability of the log house.

To perform a cut-off from capillary moisture suction, or horizontal waterproofing, it is recommended to use not roofing material on bitumen, but more modern materials, for example, euroroofing material in two layers. The material reinforced with a layer of fiberglass, elastic, is made on the basis of bitumen and has served for decades, providing sealing. The use of roofing material will lead to the fact that the violation of the waterproofing of the foundation will create conditions for decay and damage to the replaced crowns.

To protect the lower belt of the log house of a wooden house, metal visors are used. The installation of canopies over the lower chords of logs operating in the most difficult conditions guarantees the removal of atmospheric water from the crowns and an increase in their service life.

Houses made of wood are comfort and coziness, a special microclimate and positive energy. In order for it to serve for a long time, it is necessary to carry out current repairs on time and with high quality.

The experience of operating wooden buildings shows that without special tools, experience and knowledge, it is extremely risky to touch the structural elements of the structure. When replacing crowns and repairing the foundation of a wooden house, the cost of professional services will pay off with the durability of the structure.

Source cutala.free.bg

Causes of destruction of the integrity of the lower crowns

Ideally, a wooden building will stand idle for half a century without major repairs. The "weak link" of the design is the bottom rows. Moisture seeps through cracks inside the wood and through gaps between logs. In damp places, spores of the fungus begin to develop. Mold appears, then rot. Insect pests complete the internal destruction of wood.

The reasons why wood is destroyed may be as follows:

Use of unprepared material. Raw wood harvested "out of season" quickly loses its strength and begins to collapse.

The type of tree is of great importance. For example, when choosing larch for the construction of the lower rows, you don’t have to worry about high humidity, the tree will only become stronger. Lime logs are not recommended to be used as lower rims.

Poor-quality waterproofing of the foundation, made in violation of technology.

Non-compliance with the technology of antiseptic building material.

Insufficient air exchange in the underground space, lack of ventilation ducts.

Source zen.yandex.com

An incorrectly erected foundation that does not correspond to the type of soil, topography, without taking into account the depth of groundwater, the climatic conditions of the region.

Illiterately mounted facade panels covering the crowns.

All the reasons come down to two main factors: improper operation of the dwelling or an unprofessional approach to the builders' business.

How to determine the degree of destruction of the crowns

In order to radically resolve the issue of replacing the crowns in a wooden house and the degree of reconstruction, it is necessary to determine the extent of the damage.

The dull sound of the butt of the ax on the log will give out the degree of destruction of the wood from the inside. If you work with a chisel, you can imagine a more complete picture of the damage. An ordinary inspection is not enough to correctly assess the condition of the building. A professional approach involves assessing the state of the foundation, determining the degree of load on the structure. An accurate forecast of the further operation of the dwelling can be given by experienced craftsmen. If there is no need to completely change the rows of logs, you can save the family budget. And, conversely, time, effort and money can be spent on local repairs, but it will not lead to the expected result.

Source wileyloghomes.com

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer foundation repair services. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Features of the reconstruction

Before starting work, you should free the premises from furniture, things. Take out the window frames, remove the doors and dismantle the door frames.

The chimneys of the stove or fireplace are separated from the ceilings and roofs. They do everything possible to facilitate the construction and avoid distortions. Fasten undamaged rows.

Illiterate actions can lead to damage to the roof, chimneys and attic floors. Therefore, it is not recommended to carry them out on your own.

The technology is quite complex and depends on the following points:

foundation conditions;

the degree of destruction of wood;

dimensions of the building, number of storeys;

the size of the free space near the building;

the presence of outbuildings,

design and condition of chimneys.

If the furnace does not have a separate foundation, which is provided for by the construction technology, it will not work to raise the house. A specialist who has the necessary knowledge and experience in this field will be able to choose the right method of restoration work.

Whenever possible, materials are used that are as close as possible to the original ones, sometimes it is advisable to replace the rotten parts with bricks.

Source woicetosh.blogspot.com

Sometimes wooden facades are covered with siding or bricked up to hide the elements of reconstruction. A waterproofing layer is laid between the foundation and the new rows, the wood is treated with an antiseptic.

Reconstruction methods

Crowns can be repaired in several ways:

Partial replacement (local restoration of wood rotting sites).

Brickwork instead of damaged crowns.

Replacing the lower log in a wooden house when raising the log house with jacks.

Each of these methods has features, advantages and disadvantages.

Partial crown replacement

Assumes local reconstruction. This is the most affordable and low-budget way. Spot repairs are possible when the wood has just begun to deteriorate and does not have a large scale of damage. However, this technological technique has a drawback - the strength of the structure decreases, the heat loss of the room increases. With a competent approach to business, these shortcomings can be minimized.

An important point: it is necessary to correctly determine the boundaries of damage. If this is not done, the efforts will be in vain. The decay process will continue.

Source vam-mucziki.ru

In order for the inserts to last for a long time, their dimensions must fully correspond to the removed elements. Around the places where new bars are inserted, craftsmen make special holes for driving in dowels.

Brickwork instead of damaged crowns

The technology of partial restoration of wood is a temporary measure. Therefore, brickwork is more often chosen as a way to solve the problem. This can be done with or without jacking up the entire structure. The age of the building, the type and condition of the foundation, and possible material investments are taken into account.

The places affected by rot are cut out. End connections are cut off and strong brick supports are installed in their place. A brick foundation is laid, its surface is brought under intact logs. With this method, you can update several rows at once.

If brickwork is performed with raising the structure with jacks, the scheme is as follows:

When replacing the two lower rims, two logs are cut out and the jack is installed so that it rests on the third row.

The building is raised at the corners and temporary supports are installed. To avoid dangerous distortions, the structure is lifted simultaneously from all sides.

Source beloozersk.zakup.by

The old foundation is being removed.

The structure is lowered only after the brickwork has been completed and the waterproofing layer has been laid.

Complete replacement of lower rims

Unlike local repairs, the cost of replacing crowns in a wooden house using hydraulic or screw devices will be more expensive, but the result will justify the money spent.

Jacks are installed with emphasis on the upper logs so that the lower ones can be removed. Construct temporary supports. The equipment used to lift the structure must be reliable. Breakage of the jack during raising the structure can lead to a violation of the integrity of the structure and injury to people.

Although the process using jacks will require more time and effort, the life of the structure until the next major overhaul will increase significantly. The updated waterproofing layer will not allow moisture to penetrate inside the wooden walls.

What makes up the price

When replacing the lower rims of a wooden house, the cost of work depends on the complexity of the repair, the degree of wear of materials, the terrain, and the size of the house.

Source nicstroy.ru

When the lower rims of a wooden house are being replaced, the cost of the work consists of the following components:

The whole complex of actions for lifting the structure.

Dismantling the damaged crown.

Preparation and installation of a new crown.

Construction of a new foundation.

Waterproofing device.

Fixing installation.

Added to this is the cost of building materials.

On average, the cost of services for replacing the lower crown in Moscow starts from 5000 per 1 sq.m. rubles with the smallest sizes of timber. If the walls are made of logs, then the price for replacing crowns in a wooden house will be more expensive: from 13,000 rubles per 1 sq. m.

Video description

Clearly about the lifting of a wooden house with jacks in the video:

Conclusion

Determining the exact amount of work and the correct way to restore the lower rims will allow you not to spend extra money on reconstruction. Handicraft restoration can lead to a distortion of the structure and further destruction of the house.

It does not make sense to save on hiring specialists, because the price of work to replace the crown in a wooden house is not exorbitant and it is better to carry out a quality reconstruction once than to constantly face new problems.

In a private house, from time to time you have to make efforts to maintain it in good condition. The floor requires special attention, and if its quality leaves much to be desired, its replacement is necessary. In this article, we will explain in detail how to do this.

Wooden floor replacement

Changing the floor is not an easy task, but necessary when it is worn out.

The main criteria for testing field strength are:

• the floor creaks under load;
• boards on the floor sag under the furniture;
• floor level differences;
• gaps and cracks between the boards;
• the quality of the material deteriorates (the tree crumbles, becomes rotten).

If you observe several items from the list presented, then it's time to change the gender.

Work is usually carried out in several stages:

• preparation of the necessary tools and materials;
• dismantling of the old floor;
• installation of a new floor;
• finish coating.

Materials, tools, consumables

For any construction work, a number of tools are required.

To lay the floor we need:

• screwdriver;
• drill;
• saw or jigsaw;
• building level;
• axe.

It is also necessary to prepare materials for the installation of the coating:

• beam for log;
• boards;
• insulation;
• substrate;
• nails, screws.

Having prepared all the materials and tools, you can get to work.

edged board or floor board

When choosing materials, the question arises what to prefer edged or floorboard. To begin with, it is necessary to give a description of each type. An edged board is a woodworking product with a rectangular section with specified dimensions. It is obtained by processing logs from all sides.

For the manufacture of boards, the following types of trees are used:

• coniferous (spruce, pine, larch);
• hard deciduous (oak, beech);
• non-solid deciduous (birch, aspen).

The cost of the forest will depend on the type of tree. For example, a larch board due to its durability and resistance to moisture will be more expensive than a pine counterpart. True, the edged board has one drawback - a large number of knots. Such material is suitable for installation of a subfloor or flooring in non-residential premises.

The floorboard is another matter. It is made of wood and carefully processed from all sides. This material is ideal for flooring. And most importantly, you do not have to additionally dry and process the surface of the boards, achieving a nasty coating.

wooden beam 50x100

Construction timber is widely used in construction and repair. It is made from softwood and hardwood. The bar can have a square or rectangular section. It is obtained by processing a log from four sides. Material with a size of 50 * 100 mm is widely used in the repair. From it you can make a crate for wall cladding or logs for the floor. Its cost can vary between 4 - 10 thousand rubles.

Dismantling the old floor

When dismantling the floor, it is necessary to prepare tools. To do this, you will need a nail puller, crowbar, tongs and a saw.

• we free the room from furniture;
• remove old skirting boards;
• remove the flooring
• remove the subfloor;
• We take out the garbage and clean the room as much as possible;
• We do wet cleaning.

It is quite difficult to cope alone, so ask for help in advance. Next, armed with a nail puller, we try to extract the nails with which the boards are nailed. This will make it easier to take them off. If it doesn’t work, the boards can be lifted with a crowbar. If necessary, you can saw the coating, and dismantle the boards in parts. This will make it easier to take them out. After that, you need to remove the lags. Thus, we will get an absolutely cleared space for installing a new floor.

Installation and alignment of wooden logs

First you need to level the surface for installing the lag.

To do this, you will need to perform the following sequence of actions:

1. leveling and tamping the ground;
2. at the place of installation of the supports we make recesses measuring 20 by 20 cm and up to 50 cm deep;
3. after that we fill them with layers of sand, crushed stone and rubble chips 6 cm thick each;
4. fill them with a solution of concrete;
5. on concrete we erect brick columns for laying beams;
6. after that, logs are laid on the bars in increments of 50 - 80 cm;
7. the space between the lags can be sewn up with boards or particle boards.

Thus, we get a frame for laying the finish coating.

But still need to insulate the floor. Mineral wool is suitable for this, it is laid in the gaps between the lags and covered with a waterproofing film. The even installation of the lag is checked by a level, or checked with a cord that is pulled between the two extreme boards.

If the floor is being replaced on a concrete base, it is enough to replace the logs and lay the insulation. And then there is the flooring of the boards.

floorboard flooring

First you need to decide on the direction of laying. It is best to do this from the windows, so the effect of increasing the space will be achieved. We start laying from the wall. In this case, it is necessary to leave a gap of 1 cm from the ends and the side surface of the wall. This is necessary because the wood can expand when it gets wet and shrink when it dries. We fix it with screws. Next, we sequentially mount the floor, fixing them with screws into the grooves of the boards. When installing the last board, it is necessary to measure the distance, taking into account the gap. Can be cut if necessary. To prevent the coating from deforming, you can insert pegs between the boards and the wall. Now you can varnish the floor or paint it.

Laying fiberboard, linoleum

Many will wonder why lay fiberboard when you can lay linoleum on boards. The fact is that the sheets of this material are a good heat-insulating material. And keeping the heat in the house is the most important task. Also, a completely flat surface allows you to achieve an even coating. Before installing fiberboard, it is necessary to fill all the gaps between the boards with acrylic sealant, and the irregularities with putty. Now you can fix the plates with nails or self-tapping screws. The disadvantages of such methods can be fastener caps protruding above the surface. To eliminate this problem, we make recesses at the attachment points so that the hats are completely immersed and flush with the floor plane. Before installing the plates, it is necessary to leave them indoors for a couple of days. After that, we lay fiberboard starting from the far corner of the room gradually moving towards the door. Now we fill the gaps between the plates with putty.

Now you can lay linoleum, it is also left for two days in the room to adapt to temperature and humidity. Next, we spread the material and give it time to lie down. After that, you can fix it with skirting boards. Since this coating dries out over time, it is necessary to lay it close to the walls. Another option is to glue it to the surface of the fiberboard. The adhesive composition is applied with a notched trowel to the floor and wait for it to thicken. Then it is applied to the back of the linoleum and glued to the floor. To make the coating even, it is straightened from the center to the corners. Thus, we get an even and warm floor covering.

This article explains how to replace a wooden floor in a private house. Talk about what tools and materials will be needed. Using the tips of the article, you can prepare the necessary tools and carry out the work yourself. Successful work.

The lower crowns in a wooden frame are one of the most vulnerable places. No matter how hard the owners try to protect a wooden frame (be it a house or a bathhouse), it is not immune from decay. Wood is an excellent building material, but its lifespan is limited.

The situation when the house is in good condition, and the basement is very rotten, is quite common. The owner of a wooden building should think about the possibility of repairing the lower logs already at the construction stage.

If the wooden frame of the house requires major repairs after 50-60 years of operation, then its lower crowns (basement) can fail much earlier. The accelerated destruction of wood occurs for the following reasons:

1. Rotting as a result of frequent and prolonged direct contact with sediment and flood moisture, groundwater leakage, accumulation of penetrating moisture and condensate.
2. Damage by microorganisms (fungi, mold, bacteria), insects (ants, bark beetles, etc.) and various rodent pests.
3. Destruction under the action of excessive loads.
4. Mechanical damage of various types.

The following factors contribute to the appearance of these destructions:

1. Lack or poor-quality waterproofing between the foundation and the plinth, as well as from the outside of the lower part of the wall.
2. Incorrectly organized drainage system, which causes the accumulation of sedimentary and flood water, as well as moisture formed during the melting of snow.
3. Lack of foundation ventilation (vents or vents).
4. Violations during construction - the use of low-quality wood, the wrong choice of log diameter, the use of undried wood, insufficient antiseptic treatment and anti-putrefaction impregnation of wooden elements, incorrect calculation of loads, violation of the rules for laying the lower crowns.

Important. The lower crowns, made of high-quality, durable material and impregnated with a protective compound, with proper waterproofing, have the same service life as the entire wooden frame of the house.

Preparatory work

Properly carried out preparatory stage creates the basis for a quality repair. It includes such activities:

1. Visual inspection. It must be carried out periodically so as not to start the destructive process. With special care, the above-ground part of the foundation, the backfill element and 3-4 lower crowns of the log house are examined. An obvious reason for repair is the appearance of visible defects - cracks in the wood, deformation of individual logs (including bulging in one direction or another), discoloration, traces of insects and pests. A pronounced sign may be the presence of a specific smell of rotten wood.
2. Checking the internal condition of the wood. Superficial signs do not always indicate the need for major repairs - sometimes they just need to be scraped off the logs and covered with a protective layer. Things are much worse if the process has gone deeper into the material. The first sign of this is established by the dull sound heard when the logs are tapped with a hammer. For a more accurate picture, you need to use a chisel and carefully remove the top layer of trees to assess the condition of the core.
3. Evaluation of the scope of work and drawing up a repair plan. At this stage, the types of defects and the spread of damage are identified - local, i.e. on a small section of the log; damage to individual logs; destruction of almost the entire basement area (on one wall or around the entire perimeter of the house). Accordingly, repairs can have the following varieties: replacement of a small section of a log; replacement of one log with or without lifting the entire log house; complete replacement of the entire basement part of the log house.

Complete replacement of lower rims

A major overhaul in the form of a complete replacement of the lower rims includes raising the log house, removing rotten logs and installing new rims. The work is carried out in the following order: preparatory measures, replacement of the lower rims and timber.

Preparatory activities:

• maximum lightening of the entire structure (removal of furniture and plumbing, removal of doors and windows, dismantling of the floor and roofing);
• dismantling of stoves and fireplaces, if they do not have their own, independent foundation;
• separation of the chimney from the ceiling and roof, if the stove is not dismantled;
• disconnection of floor lags if they are cut into the lower rims to be replaced;
• disconnection of all communications.

To fix the crowns around the entire perimeter of the house, boards with a thickness of at least 3 cm are nailed vertically at a distance of 45-60 cm from each other. You can fasten adjacent crowns with metal brackets. Fastening is provided on both sides of the wall (outside and inside).

To raise the log house at a distance of 60-80 cm from the corner of the building, an opening 35-45 cm wide is made in the foundation and a part of the logs is cut out to form a niche for installing a jack. The following lifting technology can be used:

1. With one jack. Each corner rises in turn.
2. Using 2 jacks. First, one wall rises completely, and after fixing it, the opposite one.
3. On 4 jacks. The whole frame rises at once. This method excludes damage to the frame, but requires coordination of the operation of the devices.

After raising the corner of the log house to a height sufficient to extract one log, a support is placed under the first crown that cannot be replaced, mounted on 2 columns. So the log house is fixed at all lifting points, and the jack is removed.

Unusable logs are knocked off the nigels and removed outside. Then new logs are installed. They are immediately fastened with nigels. A jack is again brought under the lower crown, with which new logs are compacted.

Before the completion of the work, if necessary, the foundation is repaired and the waterproofing between the base and the plinth is restored, and a new backfill element is installed. After that, the log house is slowly lowered by jacks to its original place with fixation on the pins.

After the log house is completely lowered, all the cracks between the logs are caulked with moss, tow or jute. The heat and waterproofing of the basement is being restored.

Partial bar replacement

If a survey of the state of the house showed that the foundation is in good condition, like most of the basement, and only a small section of the crown is destroyed, then the repair is carried out by partially replacing the elements of the log house. In this case, only the damaged area of ​​one or more logs is removed, and a kind of “patch” is installed.

Such work involves the following steps:

1. The area to be repaired is clearly marked, for which you can use a knife, an ax or a chisel.
2. Fixation of crowns. At a distance of 35-45 cm on both sides of the border markings, screeds from a board 3-4 cm thick (with fixation of 2-3 crowns) or metal brackets are installed.
3. Cutting by marking the damaged area with a chainsaw, electric saw or grinder.
4. Opening preparation. The lower surface of the upper, untouched crown is slightly flattened, and cuts 15-20 cm wide are made at the ends of the opening. The entire surface of the opening is carefully treated with an antiseptic.
5. Manufacturing and installation of the insert. From logs with a size similar to installed logs, elements are cut 1.5-2 mm shorter than the opening. After processing and impregnation with an anti-rotten compound, the insert is tightly driven into the opening with a sledgehammer. All cracks are caulked.

Replacing a bar without raising the log house

Major repairs of the house can be made without raising the log house. There are such options:

1. Replacing a broken log. First, the rotten element is removed in parts. To do this, the log is cut into pieces 1-1.5 m long, which are alternately taken out. The technology does not differ from the previous method of partial replacement. After removing the entire log, exactly the same element is carefully driven into the vacant space and fastened to adjacent crowns with metal brackets.
2. Replacing the destroyed wooden plinth with brickwork. The technology is based on alternately cutting and removing sections of a wooden base 1-1.5 m long, with brickwork 1.5-2 bricks thick instead of it. The masonry is brought directly under the remaining lower crown, and waterproofing is laid between them. Gradually moving around the entire perimeter of the house, the rotten lower wooden crowns are completely replaced with a brick basement. Further, it is enough to insulate and plaster the masonry.

What wood is best suited for the lower rims of the log house

During the construction of a wooden house, wood of the following species is used:

1. Spruce. This is one of the most accessible and cheap materials. Due to the loose structure, spruce logs retain heat well. In addition, they have antibacterial properties. The main disadvantages are low moisture resistance and a tendency to rot, which limits the use in the lower crowns.
2. Pine has a smooth trunk without knots, but in its shortcomings it is similar to spruce.
3. Birch is considered a hard, durable material, but it dries out a lot, has high water permeability, rot and low durability.
4. Larch. It has high strength, resistance to microorganisms, is not subject to decay. The main advantage is moisture resistance and a fairly high fire resistance. Wood is a highly drying species, which requires good drying before construction. The only real downside is the high cost.
5. Oak. This wood stands out for its strength and durability, high hardness, resistance to any weather conditions. In terms of resistance to decay and moisture resistance, oak logs are comparable to larch and have a similar drawback.

Taking into account the economic side, wooden houses are most often built from spruce and pine. However, in the lower crowns, their use threatens premature overhaul. The best option for making a plinth is larch and oak. Such materials will cost more than common tree species, but their very high resistance to moisture and mechanical strength will significantly increase durability.

Attention! The maximum loads fall on the lower crowns of the log house, and therefore the diameter of the logs for them should be 15-20% larger than the size of the elements of the rest of the walls.

What tools are required to perform the work

When carrying out repairs on your own, you will need the following tools and equipment:

• jack for lifting the house (1-4 pieces);
• Bulgarian;
• gasoline or electric saw for cutting logs;
• perforator for forming the installation site of the jack on the foundation;
• electric drill for installing nigels;
• sledgehammer;
• a hammer;
• chisel;
• plane;
• hacksaw;
• scissors for cutting waterproofing;
• metal brush;
• paint brush;
• roulette;
• metal ruler;
• rail for height control.

Is it possible to change the bottom bar yourself

In general, the repair work under consideration requires a certain skill, considerable time and labor costs.

The question of whether it is possible to independently replace the lower rims of a wooden house is a purely individual one. If you have the necessary equipment and enough time, you can do the work associated with lifting the log house with your own hands.

But, if a person is in doubt, it is better to invite specialists. In order to carry out repairs correctly and efficiently, it is necessary to take into account some nuances.

When is the best time to work

Repair of the basement of a wooden house must be carried out immediately upon detection of damage. In this case, it is possible to do without a major overhaul and complete replacement of the lower rims. The work itself can not be carried out in high humidity and in windy weather.

When planning the timing of repair activities, it is necessary to take into account some features of the behavior of wood. In summer, moisture moves deeper into the log, which can cause cracking during drying.

In winter, the humidity of the wood is minimal, and the moisture freezes out, which ensures uniform shrinkage. In addition, in summer, temperature differences between night and day are more sensitive to wood.

The choice of repair terms should be made taking into account the recommendations given for the construction of a wooden house:

1. It is better to repair the foundation in the fall, when the air temperature has not yet dropped to minus values. After 2.5-3 weeks, the concrete will gain the desired strength, and you can deal with the log house.
2. Work with a wooden frame is best done in winter.
3. During the spring, maximum shrinkage occurs. This period is better to wait.
4. Summer is the best option for finishing work.

Important! If the overhaul of a wooden house is associated with raising and strengthening the foundation, as well as replacing the lower rims of the log house, then work should begin at the end of October-November, taking into account that the completion of the log house repair will take place in December-January.

How to increase the service life of a beam

The service life of the lower rims, and hence the entire wooden house, can be done in the following ways:

1. The use of high quality and reliable waterproofing. Such materials include modern euroruberoid. It is laid on top of the foundation and well protects the log house from below.
2. Cover board. In the absence of financial opportunities for the manufacture of lower rims of larch or oak, it is possible to increase the reliability of the base by installing boards from these materials. It is mounted on top of the waterproofing of the foundation and has a width of 25-30 cm with a thickness of 6-8 cm.
3. Impregnation of wood with folk remedies. It is recommended to use such substances - copper sulphate, "Finnish mixture" (slaked lime, copper sulphate, table salt, flour); natural wax; spruce resin or birch tar; bitumen; drying oil; oils.
4. Modern, synthetic, impregnating compositions. Such antiseptics are popular - Pinotex, Sadolin, Senezh Ognebio, Tikkurila, Belika.

Replacing the lower crowns in a wooden frame can be done independently in different ways. It is important to correctly assess their condition and determine the scope of work.

To prevent rapid decay of wood, it is necessary to protect it from moisture and pests. Preventive measures will help eliminate the need for time-consuming overhauls.