Do-it-yourself plaster ceiling. Single-level plasterboard ceiling, quick installation instructions

The easiest way to level the ceiling surface is to make a plasterboard binder. Moreover, it is not necessary to build a complex multi-level system; it is enough to make a single-level coating of gypsum plasterboards over a metal frame. If you follow the instructions exactly, a one-level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands can be made in a couple of days. It is important to select and calculate the amount of material correctly, and upon completion of the installation, prepare the surface for processing with the selected finishing material. The article will describe: installation technology, prices for work carried out by professional craftsmen.

If you decide to make a plasterboard suspended ceiling with your own hands, then first decide on the type of gypsum board and calculate the required amount of material.

Depending on the purpose and characteristics of the processes taking place in it, one of the following types of gypsum boards is used:

moisture resistant products have a characteristic greenish surface and are suitable for installation in a damp room in a bathroom, kitchen, toilet or swimming pool;
fire-resistant gypsum board is used in places with increased requirements for fire safety (on staircases, escape routes, in the corridors of public institutions, etc.);
standard slabs have a gray surface and are suitable for installation in living areas with normal humidity, for example, in a bedroom, living room, study, children's room, hallway or corridor;
also happens wall and ceiling drywall, the latter has less thickness and weight, so it is more suitable for ceiling mounting;
arched gypsum plasterboard is the thinnest, it is used for the manufacture of curved surfaces (when installing single-level coatings, it is not used).

Important! To calculate the required number of gypsum boards, you need to know the ceiling area. We divide the resulting value by the area of one plasterboard sheet and round it up to the whole product.

Tools and materials necessary for work

Before making a plasterboard ceiling, you need to prepare the necessary materials:

gypsum boards;
metal profiles for assembling the frame;
primer;
putty;
screws and dowels;
necessary components (suspensions, connectors);
serpyanka;
dowel-nails for mounting perforated hangers;
self-tapping screws for metal work;
finishing material (wallpaper, paint, etc.).

From the tools you will need the following:

puncher;
drill;
hammer;
screwdriver;
spatulas;
rollers and brushes;
pallet for primer;
painting float;
construction and laser level;
chopping cord;
pencil;
roulette;
ladder;
ruler;
scissors for metal.

Selection of profiles for the ceiling

If you are going to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, then it is important to choose the right profiles for assembling the supporting frame:

To assemble the guide rails on the walls, you will need PN profiles with a section of 27x28 mm and a length of up to 4 m.
The main frame is assembled from PP ceiling profiles with a section of 60x27 mm and a length of 300-400 cm.
In addition to the profile elements, you will need straight perforated hangers, as well as single-level crab connectors.

Surface preparation before installing the gypsum board

If you decide to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, then the step-by-step instructions from our article will help you. Since the surface of the suspended ceiling completely hides any defects and unevenness of the base, it does not need special preparation.

If there is an old coating that does not adhere well to the base, then it is better to dismantle it. Places with mold are cleaned up to the base ceiling and treated with an antiseptic composition so that the fungus does not appear again in the future.

At the preparatory stage, engineering communications are laid - ventilation ducts and wiring to the installation sites of the lamps. In addition, the marking of the installation sites of the frame elements is applied.

To do this, do the following:

Find the lowest angle in the room using a laser measuring device.
From this angle, a value equal to the height of the lowering of the new ceiling surface is laid down. The distance can be calculated if we take into account the thickness of the frame, the communications to be laid and the height of the recessed luminaires.
Using a laser level, the resulting mark is transferred to the remaining corners of the room.
We connect all points in the corners with longitudinal lines on the walls using a chopping cord.
On the ceiling surface we mark the installation locations of the PP profiles. Usually they are mounted with a step of 40 cm. We put dots along these lines with a step of 60 cm. These will be the places where the suspensions will be installed.

Installation of guides

First you need to assemble a structure from guide rails on the walls of the room. To do this, we drill holes in the PN profile with a step of 50 cm. We make the extreme holes at a distance of no more than 5 cm from the end of the profile. Then we apply the product to the markings on the wall surface and mark the holes.

We drill holes in the wall using a hammer drill. Then we hammer dowels into the holes and fasten the profile with self-tapping screws. Similarly, we mount the guide profiles along all the walls in the room.

Important! After assembling the frame from the guides, the perforated hangers are installed on the ceiling according to the previously applied markings. Each part is attached to two dowel nails.

Installation of the ceiling profile

We cut the longitudinal ceiling profiles to the width of the room. We put the ends of one rail into the groove of the guides on the wall. In the central part, we attach the rail to the base ceiling surface using perforated hangers. We screw the self-tapping screws into the side shelves, and bend the excess part of the suspension ears up so that they do not interfere with the installation of drywall.

We mount the next profile in the same way at a distance of 40 cm from the previous product. Thus, each gypsum sheet will be attached to 4 profiles, which increases the reliability of the entire structure.

In a small area, the transverse short ceiling profiles can be omitted. In a large room, they are cut to length and installed in increments of 60 cm between the longitudinal slats. To fasten these parts to the frame, single-level connectors are used. Short slats are not attached to perforated hangers.

Installation of thermal insulation

If the installation of a plasterboard ceiling is carried out with additional insulation of the room, then the installation of heat-insulating materials is performed at this stage. Usually soft insulators such as mineral wool are used. Insulation plates are cut according to the width of the step with which the longitudinal elements of the frame are installed, plus 1-2 cm for tight joining.

The material is laid between the slats so that it is held in place. The ends of the insulation plates are placed as close as possible to each other so that there are no gaps. To protect the mineral wool from moisture absorption, a vapor barrier membrane is sewn to the bottom of the frame. The material is laid in strips with an overlap of 15 cm and attached to double-sided tape.

Important! The vapor barrier can be attached to the wooden crate with a stapler.

Installation of gypsum board

Installation of drywall begins from one of the corners of the room. The slab is laid along the longitudinal profiles of the frame. Moreover, each sheet must be attached to four PP-rails. The product is screwed in with self-tapping screws, which are mounted with a step of 25 cm.The extreme fasteners are placed from the edge of the sheet at a distance of at least 2.5 cm.

Similarly, mount the next sheet, which is stacked close to the previous one. The longitudinal joint of the slabs must be in the middle of the ceiling profile. The outermost sheets in a row are cut in width.

Final surface treatment

Finishing the ceiling with plasterboard needs a finishing decorative coating. Various finishing options are possible - painting with interior paint, whitewashing, wallpapering or foil.

In any case, the surface of the plasterboard ceiling must be prepared:

All seams between the slabs must be putty using a serpyanka. A thin layer of mortar is applied to the seam, the serpyanka is pressed in and covered with a second layer of putty. The surface is well leveled.
Places of installation of self-tapping screws are putty.
After the putty mixture has dried, the treated areas are sanded with a fine grain sandpaper.
The surface is dedusted and treated with a primer. After the first layer of the primer mixture has dried, the second is applied. This preparation is sufficient for wallpapering the ceiling.
If painting is performed, then the entire surface is putty with a finishing compound, and after it dries, it is sanded. Then the ceiling is once again treated with deep penetration soil. The surface is now ready for painting.

If the ceiling surface is relatively flat, and you do not plan to install built-in lamps and lay utility lines in the ceiling space, then the installation of the gypsum board on the ceiling can be performed using frameless technology. In this case, you do not need to assemble the lathing from metal profiles or wooden bars, because gypsum boards are simply glued to the ceiling with special glue. This installation method allows you to significantly save and speed up work.

Now you know how to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands. It is much more profitable to install the gypsum board yourself, since the price per m2 of professional installation of drywall on the ceiling is $ 10. Considering the cost of materials and finishing, the total cost can go up to $ 20 per square. That is why it is better to carry out the installation yourself, and the instructions from our article will help you do everything right.

A suspended plasterboard ceiling allows you to hide all the unevenness of the floor slabs and passing communications. GCR is easy to trim and even bend, which simplifies the installation of the ceiling structure with your own hands. A single-level ceiling is considered simpler to manufacture. If you need to visually enlarge the room or divide it into work zones, you will have to resort to the installation of a multi-level structure.

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare tools and materials.

Of the tools you will need:

Of the materials you will need:

In addition to standard and moisture-resistant gypsum plasterboard, there are gypsum fiber sheets, as well as moisture-fire resistant gypsum plasterboard. For the manufacture of suspended ceilings in dry rooms, standard plasterboard is suitable. In rooms with a high level of humidity, for example, a bathroom or a kitchen, it is necessary to use a moisture-resistant gypsum board. Other types of drywall for home false ceilings are rarely used.

Manufacturing of a single-level false ceiling

For an inexperienced person, it is easiest to make a single-level ceiling on his own.

There are several advantages of this design:

In case of subsidence of the foundation of the house, the appearance of the single-level ceiling will remain unchanged;
Suspended structures take up a lot of space. A single-level model in this regard outperforms a multi-level ceiling;
Ease of installation and less cost of purchasing materials determines the main advantage of a single-level design over a multi-level analogue.

The disadvantages include, perhaps, the impossibility of zoning the room, but this is easily corrected by a combination of different lighting devices.

Preparatory work and marking

The installation of the suspended ceiling frame is started before finishing the walls, but at this stage they should already be perfectly aligned. If there is an old finish on the ceiling, it is completely removed, and all lighting fixtures are also removed.

The markings for the frame begin from the walls where the starting profile will be installed. A tape measure is taken from floor to ceiling in all four corners of the room, as well as in the center of each wall. The starting point of the layout is the lowest corner of the room. If a suspended structure is intended with recessed lighting fixtures, a distance of 90–100 mm is marked from the ceiling to the attachment point of the starting profile. The absence of built-in devices allows the distance to be reduced to 50 mm.

The following marks are placed in two opposite corners of the room from the starting point of the layout. Now these points must be connected with lines, and they must be strictly parallel to the floor. So, at this stage, we have two walls with a marking line for attaching the starting profile. The last point is placed in the fourth corner of the room, drawing lines from it to two opposite corners.

On all four walls, the markings for the starting profile are ready and it is time to draw the grid for attaching the ceiling profile.
The lines of attachment of the longitudinal guide profile are marked first. The distance between the lines depends on the location of the gypsum board sheets. If longitudinal fastening of drywall is provided, then the step between the profile is kept 400 mm. With transverse laying of sheets, the pitch is increased to 600 mm.

The last are the transverse lines. A step of 500 mm is maintained here. At the intersection of the longitudinal and transverse lines, marks are made of the holes for attaching the suspensions.

The video tells about the markup of a single-level ceiling:

To make the ceiling perfectly flat, it is best to use a laser level when marking and making the frame.

Assembling the frame from the profile

The markup is ready, it's time to connect the frame elements.

Carrying out work on the installation of the frame, adhere to the following sequence:

If everything is fine with the frame, you can start plasterboarding.

The video shows a method for simplified installation of the frame in a large room:

Production of a multi-level false ceiling

The load-bearing base of the multi-level ceiling is the frame of the suspended ceiling of the first level that we have already considered. All subsequent levels of the protruding structure are distinguished by a smaller area relative to the previous level. If we take, for example, a three-level ceiling, then the third tier will be the smallest in size, and its supporting base will be the frame of the second tier.

The dignity of a multi-level ceiling is more justified from the design side. Various drops made on the ceiling, figures change the geometry of the room. Designers, thus, zone the room, create the illusion of an increase in space, combine lighting of different parts of the room with built-in lighting devices.

Among the disadvantages of a multi-level ceiling, one can single out the complexity of the installation of the frame, the high costs of materials, as well as the large weight of the finished structure.

Marking and fabrication of the frame

So, the first level is already ready, now it's time to build the second level. Let's look at an example with a box. It is usually made up to 500 mm wide, and the height depends on the design project.

The manufacturing process of the second tier consists of the following steps:

After connecting all the elements, the frame of the second level is considered ready. All subsequent tiers are made using a similar technology.

The video tells how to assemble the second tier of the ceiling:

Sheathing the frame with plasterboard

Fastening of drywall begins after the installation of all communications and distribution of electrical wiring. Sheets are cut out on the floor, if necessary, cut out holes for built-in lamps with a crown. GKL is rather fragile, and it is better to lift large fragments to a height with an assistant.

The sheets are screwed with self-tapping screws at a pitch of 100–150 mm. A gap of about 2 mm is left between the joints, and the ends of the drywall themselves are cut with a plane at an angle of 45 °. At the end of the fastening of all fragments of the gypsum board, the joints are sealed with a reinforcing mesh and putty, and the caps of the screws are simply covered with the same solution. The edges of the inner and outer corners of the structure are protected with metal perforated corners.

The false ceiling is ready. Now it remains to putty, sanded and can be painted or pasted over with wallpaper. As you can see, you can make a plasterboard structure with your own hands, you just need to make the most of your efforts.

Drywall is one of the most convenient and versatile building and finishing materials. It is widely used in the arrangement of walls, all kinds of openings, partitions and, of course, ceilings. The undoubted advantages of drywall include the fact that work with its use does not require the use of any hard-to-reach and complex tools. You can get by with a screwdriver, electric drill and various small devices in the form of a hammer, screwdrivers, etc.

Despite the simplicity and high speed of installation, structures of the most diverse complexity can be assembled from this material. It is not difficult to make a high-quality plasterboard ceiling on your own. It is enough just to understand in detail each stage of the work and you can save a significant amount on the services of third-party repairmen.

Regardless of the complexity of the future ceiling structure, work can be performed exclusively in warm and relatively dry conditions. It is recommended to install the sheets before completing the finishing device.

You should first prepare a detailed sketch of the future interior of the room, having thought over the features of the furniture and the location of the lighting devices, so that the finished lighting is as efficient and economical as possible.

Select the appropriate type of drywall sheets. They are ordinary and moisture resistant. It is recommended to pay attention to moisture-resistant sheets for residents of apartment buildings. If, due to the negligence of the neighbors living above, flooding occurs, repairing the ceiling made of moisture-resistant plasterboard will be reduced to a relatively small restoration.

In the case of a material unstable to water, the repair will have to be done again. In private houses where there is no threat of flooding, ordinary drywall will be enough. It costs significantly less than its moisture-resistant counterpart and significantly reduces the cost of repair work.

Among the advantages of drywall, it is imperative to include the ability of this material to hide even the largest defects in the base. That is, before the device, the structure does not have to be primed, painted, puttyed and generally carried out any preparation of the rough ceiling, with the exception of marking.

What do you need to install drywall?

Prepare everything you need for work in advance so as not to be distracted by it in the future. In the process of preparation, pay attention to such indicators as the volume and complexity of the upcoming work, as well as the available funds. For example, if ordinary home repairs are planned, performed at intervals of 5-10 years, there will be no point in buying expensive professional grade fixtures. In general, focus on personal needs and available money.

Plasterboard Ceiling Installation Tools

Preparation of markings for ceiling installation

Correctly executed markings are a guarantee of obtaining a smooth and correct plasterboard ceiling in all respects. It is better to spend more time preparing than spending it in the future fixing defects. First, a plan for the placement of profiles, sheets and lamps directly is drawn up on paper or in a special computer program, and then simply transferred to the base.

Determine in advance the distance between the existing ceiling and the plasterboard structure under construction. If only luminaires are to be installed, a distance of 80-100 mm will suffice. If ventilation ducts and other communications will be hidden with the help of drywall, the height should be increased to 200 mm or even more. Focus on your specific conditions.

The problem with "native" ceilings is that they are almost never even. And in order for the future drywall construction to have no distortions and differences, special attention should be paid to the markup.

Measure from anywhere on the base down the wall at the desired distance. Arm yourself with a building level and, focusing on the deferred point, apply the same marks to the rest of the walls of the room. It is important that they are located strictly at the same level. Next, you just need to connect the marks with a solid line. For this, it is convenient to use a rail or any other suitable device.

Also, the markup involves drawing straight parallel lines. They need to be drawn along the width and length of the base. These marks will be used to mount suspensions and metal profiles. The traditional width of the gypsum board is 1200 mm. Thus, parallel lines are drawn at a distance of 400 or 600 mm from each other. The markup should be such that the joints of adjacent sheets fall exactly on the metal profile. This will ensure the most reliable fixation of the material.

Ceiling Frame Assembly Guide

The frame is assembled using a number of special materials and fixtures.

Materials for mounting the frame

First, the guides are fixed on the base. Mount these profiles according to the markup created in the previous step. Fixation is done with dowels. It is necessary to fix it every 50-70 cm. Do not forget to control the horizontal installation of the guides using a building level.

Attach the hangers for the main CD profiles. In the case of fixing to a concrete ceiling, use dowels. If the base is made of wood, fixing is done with self-tapping screws. It is necessary to fasten it every 95-100 cm.

Take a strong thread and pull it along the markings, flush with the guides. On a tight thread fasten the main profiles to the guides. For this, screws are used. Make sure the installation is horizontal with the help of the building level you already know.

In the event that the wall of the room has a length exceeding the length of one main profile, you will have to dock the two products. For this, special connectors are intended. You can buy them at a hardware store or hardware store. Transverse metal profiles are connected with longitudinal ones using the so-called. "Crabs" and self-tapping screws every 40-50 cm.

After assembling the frame, be sure to check for evenness and rigidity.... If insufficient rigidity is found, tighten the fasteners more. At the same stage, lay the wiring and install the fixtures for the lighting fixtures. The wires must not be laid in the mounting profiles, they can only run over the structure.

Sheet Fastening Guide

To complete this stage of the work, you will need directly sheets of material, special fasteners in the form of self-tapping plasterboard screws with threads up to 25 mm, as well as at least one assistant. The material has a fairly large weight, so it will be very inconvenient to hold it only through your own efforts.

Take a sharp knife, or better yet, a butt planer, and remove a chamfer about 2/3 of its thickness from the end of the drywall sheet... Special care is not required here. You don't need perfect joints because in the future, the surface will still be putty and all the irregularities will hide.

Use self-tapping screws to fasten drywall to the main profiles. The heads of the mountings should be slightly buried in the material. The long sides of the individual sheets should converge in the middle of the profiles installed in the longitudinal direction. The technology prohibits the creation of such fasteners in which the joints of the ends will sag. Therefore, under such joints, parts of the transverse mounting profile that are suitable along the length are necessarily fixed.

Plasterboard must be laid so that along the longitudinal sides they dock with some displacement. The specific value of such a displacement is not established, the main thing is that there are no points of convergence of 4 corners at one point on the ceiling.

Installation procedure for the second and subsequent levels of the ceiling

Arrangement of the second level of plasterboard ceiling can be performed in different ways. This material is versatile and easy to process. With its help, you can create a wide variety of designs and design options.

Preliminary prepare the circuit future design on a computer or paper. After making all the required edits transfer the finished sketch to the main level of the ceiling. Fix the main profiles according to the markings made earlier... Do this so that the main part of the second level connects with the main profiles of the previous level.

Route the wires to the points where the fixtures are placed. Cut the material to the desired pattern and attach patterns to profiles using plasterboard screws. Use a strip of material of suitable width to cover the protruding portions of the part's profile. Simply moisten the drywall with water. It will get wet and soft, after which you can create the required curvilinear pattern and freely attach it to the profile.

Take a rasp and trim the edges of the structure. Seams need to be putty with the obligatory use of a reinforcing tape. Otherwise, the joints of the sheets may crack. Plasterboard is laid in the same order at further levels provided for by the design you have chosen.

How is an oval plasterboard ceiling mounted?

If you have such a desire, you can easily assemble a plasterboard ceiling of a neat oval shape. The device of such a system is performed according to the technology you are already familiar with, but there are also a number of certain differences that must be taken into account.

It all starts with the markup. The oval of the ceiling can be right or wrong. First you need to draw a shape. For this, you can prepare a template. In the absence of a ready-made template, you will have to spend a little more time. First, you should draw two intersecting circles on the base. The size of the future oval directly depends on the area of their intersection. So, the larger the given intersection area, the smaller the oval you get.

Mark the center of the base. If you want the oval to be located at some offset from the center, retreat the desired distance from the plotted point. From the central mark, you need to retreat a certain distance in the required directions and mark the midpoints of future intersecting circles.

You can use a homemade compass to draw circles. To do this, it is enough to take a self-tapping screw, fix it in the center of the future figure, attach a wire to it, the length of which would correspond to the diameter of the circle, attach a pencil or chalk to the second end of the wire and draw a figure. Draw both circles and connect their sides with straight lines. As a result, you will get a finished oval.

At the last stage, the plasterboard ceiling is putty and the finishing is arranged according to the owner's choice. Thus, there is nothing difficult in creating a plasterboard ceiling structure on your own. It is enough to follow the instructions in everything, do not deviate from the recommendations received, and no problems will arise.

Happy work!

Video - How to make a plasterboard ceiling

When performing apartment renovations, a home craftsman is often faced with work on the ceiling, which is always in the field of vision of any visitor and therefore is important in the design of any room.

Due to the availability of a wide range of drywall sheets and various fasteners for it on sale, you can create a perfectly flat ceiling with your own hands, providing a beautiful interior of the room. This will require a simple set of tools and the ability to use them with.

How to choose drywall for the ceiling

Since the entire structure rises to a height and is fixed there, you should pay attention to its weight. The larger it is, the more difficult it is to perform high-quality work, to take measures against collapse.

The types of drywall sheets produced by the industry are described in the article. When choosing them for the ceiling when renovating an apartment with your own hands, you should not take those that are thicker than 12.5 mm. It is optimal to use 9.5 or 8.0 mm. Otherwise, the total weight of the suspended ceiling structure can be quite large.

Comparative evaluation of the weight of drywall sheets
Sheet size and area in meters	Sheet weight in kilograms with a thickness in mm
Sheet size and area in meters	12,5	9,5	6,0
1.2 ∙ 3.0 = 3.6 square meters	36	27	18
1.2 ∙ 2.5 = 3.0 square meters	29	22	16
1.2 ∙ 2.0 = 2.4 square meters	23	18	12

It is enough to determine the total area of the ceiling coverage, and from it, knowing the characteristics of one sheet taken from the table, calculate the total weight.

False ceiling installation steps

The work is reduced to the sequential execution of technological operations:

determining the plane for placing the base surface and applying its markings on building structures;
installation of a retaining frame made of metal profiles, taking into account the mains of electrical wiring and low-current circuits;
fastening drywall sheets;
putty and surface finishing.

How to mark a false ceiling

The ideal solution is to mount the structure strictly in, which is well perceived by our eyesight. It is convenient to use it to embody various ideas of designers.

When doing apartment renovations with your own hands to mark the horizon, you can use conventional hydraulic levels with bubble readout indicators or various designs of laser levels. The use of the latter greatly facilitates the drawing of the base plane, allows it to be completed quickly and efficiently.

In order to mark the depth of lowering the plasterboard surface from the ceiling, you will need to draw its horizon level on the walls.

The laser beam allows you to quickly identify the boundaries of the horizontal plane. To mark it, you should determine the lowest point on the ceiling slabs and retreat from it by a minimum size of 4 cm. This distance is necessary to hide the profiles and conveniently fix them with suspensions.

If they are installed close to the ceiling, then it will be quite difficult to work, and a greater distance reduces the amount of free space in the room.

In the places marked by the laser beam, clearly visible control points are applied with a marker pencil. They beat off the entire line with a dyeing paint cord. To do this, it is fixed at the edges, and then abruptly released.

When marking up, do not forget to take into account the thickness of the drywall sheet.

This is done around the entire perimeter of the room, drawing a single closed line along the walls. After that, it is necessary to draw the markup for installing profiles along the width of the ceiling and attaching drywall to them.

Each sheet should be secured along the perimeter and centerline. With a standard width of 120 cm, the center will be 60 cm from the edge. At this distance from the wall, markings are carried out for attaching the profiles.

Each line should coincide with the junction of the drywall sheet in the center of the intermediate profile. Along it, holes for dowels will be drilled in the ceiling at the same distance for fastening the suspensions with self-tapping screws, which regulate and hold the intermediate profile.

It is convenient to mark the ceiling lines along the long side of the room. You need to start work from one wall and gradually move on to the opposite. The last row may be shorter. Sheets of drywall will have to be cut for it.

How to mount the frame for the installation of a false ceiling

The first plasterboard structures were attached to the ceiling through dried wooden slats. However, wood is susceptible to moisture, shrinkage and deformation. After a certain period of time, cracks and defects may appear on the outer surface. For these reasons, modern technology involves the installation of drywall only on metal profiles specially created for these purposes.

General rules

The principle of installation of a plasterboard structure is based on rigid attachment of a guide profile to the walls and the installation of an intermediate profile into it, which is additionally adjusted and held on suspensions bolted to the ceiling.

Of the standard range of profiles produced by the industry for fastening drywall, UD27 is suitable as guide models, and CD60 as intermediate models.

You will also need tape suspensions, the number of which depends on the profile assembly scheme.

Installation of the guide profile

The line drawn on the wall serves as a guide for the installation of the lower surface of the mounted profile.

To do this, it is pre-drilled and applied to the installation site. After orientation on the wall, a marker pencil is inserted through the holes created, leaving a visible mark. According to the created markings, holes are punched with a puncher and dowels are hammered into them.

This installation will support the entire suspended ceiling structure. It must be performed reliably.

Fastening the intermediate profile

Its length should be strictly measured and correspond to the size of the room. If it is larger, then the excess part can be cut off with a grinder or a hacksaw for metal. When the standard size of 3 meters is not enough, then the missing piece is built up with a connection through an adapter with a screw fastening.

The intermediate profiles prepared along the length are inserted into the guides fixed to the wall in such a way that their wide part of the base faces down to the drywall sheets.

Before performing this operation, tape hangers are installed along the previously outlined lines on the ceiling. They are used to adjust the created horizontal plane of the false ceiling. When controlling the work, it is convenient to use a tight thread or cord and tape measure.

The distance of the profile from the surface of the stationary ceiling of the order of one centimeter is needed so that it is convenient to fasten it to the suspension with a self-tapping screw for metal and adjust the level of the horizontal plane by inserting a fingertip into this gap.

After fixing the profile, the free ends of the suspension are bent to the side.

How to install electrical wiring in a false ceiling

The rooms should be thought out in advance, before starting the repair of the apartment with your own hands. To do this, you should think over and determine the installation locations of the junction boxes.

It is impossible to clutter up and hide the connection points of cables and wires inside building structures. Access to them must be free. Otherwise, in the event of malfunctions in the electrical network, you will have to look for the cause of the breakdown and break the created decorative coatings.

Installation of electrical lines

Cables and wires for luminaires located in a false ceiling are placed in a corrugation or metal hose, protecting its surface from mechanical damage, and then fixed on the ceiling or in profiles.

An intermediate fastener or a separate suspension system is created, and spotlights are allowed to be mounted directly in drywall sheets.

Here it is necessary to provide questions to lighting devices, to ensure their required length.

Work with electrical wiring must be completely finished before installing the sheets on the frame.

How to prepare and fix drywall

Features of preparation of ends

Curly edges should be created around the entire perimeter of the surface of each sheet, which serve to fill the putty mortar. On factory products, they can have a different profile.

If it is required to cut sheets of drywall, then professional builders form the edges with a special tool at the joints being created.

A home craftsman does not have such devices, but it is quite possible to get by with a simple plane for processing wood.

Its cutting blade is strictly fixed in the body and allows for a smooth, uniform cut.

You should not use an ordinary knife: you get a curved surface.

The edges are created in order to increase the volume of space for the putty mortar. If you do not do them, then due to its insufficient amount, cracks will form on the decorative surface over time.

Surface marking

On each sheet, prior to its installation on the ceiling, it is necessary to draw marking lines along which self-tapping screws will be screwed in to attach to the intermediate profile hidden behind the surface. An ordinary tape measure and a paint cord will allow you to do this work quickly and efficiently.

Installing drywall on the frame

The weight of one sheet, depending on the thickness, can vary from 12 to 36 kg. Moreover, it has large dimensions. It is not quite easy to work with it and lift it from the floor to ceiling level: you need an assistant.

Among the builders, there are specialists who, with experience and prepared devices, perform such work alone. The owner of the video, Severkola, demonstrates one of the ways to do this.

We do not recommend repeating these techniques without a certain building experience and skills in handling drywall.

Features of fastening sheets to the frame

Installation of drywall is carried out with self-tapping screws 35 mm. So that they hold the heavy weight well, they are screwed in at a distance of 10 mm from the edge of the sheet and 10 ÷ 15 cm between themselves. Fastening is carried out along the entire perimeter of the surface and the center line.

Pre-made clear marking of the suspended ceiling made of metal profiles and plasterboard sheets ensures that the self-tapping screws accurately fit into the fasteners.

The head caps must be flat. They are slightly recessed into the surface of the sheet for subsequent convenient puttying and leveling.

At the joints of the sheets, it is necessary to install additional profiles to ensure a snug fit of the drywall. The connection is made using transitional inserts, fastened on the thread, or suspensions of the "Crab" type.

Fastening sheets to them with self-tapping screws ensures increased rigidity of the structure, excludes the formation of cracks during operation.

A general view of the created structure with a lead-out power cable is shown in the photo.

Putty and finishing

From consumables for this work, you will need to purchase the putty itself and the tape that reinforces the joints of the plates.

The technology of the correct execution of the sequence of operations is well shown in the video of the owner "Work Front" "High quality ceiling putty". We recommend that you carefully read this material because a certain part of the builders violate these rules, simplifying their work.

The decoration of the ceiling area traditionally plunges the home owner into the abyss of doubts and contradictions. Today the variety of materials and technologies, design possibilities are so diverse that it is rather difficult to decide on something specific.

Advantages and disadvantages of plasterboard ceilings

Drywall is one of the materials marked by the high popularity of the Russian population. Undoubtedly, have plasterboard ceilings and disadvantages, because nothing perfect exists in the world. Let's remember them without secrets so that your decision to hang drywall over your head is conscious:

lack of elasticity (unlike PVC ceiling films);
rather high flammability (in case of fires, drywall supports the flame);
incompatibility with water (drywall is contraindicated in basements, bathrooms, etc.).

However, new technologies from manufacturers delight the user with the fire resistance and water resistance of some modifications, addressed specifically for rooms with high humidity and high fire factor. Stores offer standard, moisture and fire resistant drywall.

Advantages:

Tools and materials for the work ahead

Prepare your tools ahead of time to avoid distractions and fuss. The list of names for different craftsmen is somewhat different, because in the repair and construction business, as you know, a lot is decided by skill, the ability to use what is, not to depend on frills. Nevertheless, there is the main thing, without which the upcoming work is unlikely to be successful:

drywall;
suture tape ("serpyanka");
guide profiles;
powerful dowels for fixing profiles to walls;
ceiling profiles;
self-tapping screws for attaching drywall to profiles;
roulette;
construction knife;
hammer;
ceiling suspensions;
anchor bolts for attaching hangers to the ceiling;
docking crabs;
goggles, dust mask (respirator);
laser or hydro level for measuring the entire room;
bubble level (ideal if its length is 2 meters) for measuring areas;
screwdriver;
perforator with a drill (it will be required for dowelling the profiles to the walls and ceiling);
scissors for metal.

This is the minimum you cannot do without. Also, the list may include additional elements, taking into account the peculiarities of the "native" ceiling in the room. For example, if the composition of the floors is rough concrete, in which there are hard stones that interfere with the normal drilling of holes for fastening screws. Or let's say you want to install a complex multi-level ceiling. Then you need clamps and fasteners to connect the bearing profiles at different heights. Etc.

Frame preparation - measurements and fasteners

We work with a guide frame

Step 1. Find the lowest corner in the room by measuring all the corners, and ideally also the center. We use a tape measure. In the corner, which will be the lowest, put a mark:

7-9 cm from the ceiling if you plan to install built-in lamps;
by 4-5 cm if there are no built-in lamps.

Step 2. We arm ourselves with the water level and mark all other corners at the same height as the first mark at the very bottom corner. Then, using the hydro level, we put several marks along the walls at the same level as the first point at each corner, connect them together - draw them with a pencil or chalk.

Use a ruler, a perfectly straight block, or a taut cord to keep the line straight. A simpler option is without tracing, but point-to-point mark the guide line for attaching the profile.

Step 3. We fix the guide profile to the walls. If joining seams are assumed on the girders between the corners (and this cannot be avoided in large rooms), it is necessary to insure further "passing" of adjacent fragments under the weight of the entire ceiling structure. We use pieces of dense material - plywood, tin or plastic - and, placing them over the butt joint, attach to the walls using high-strength dowels.

Sometimes in such situations they use a special sealing tape, but it is not always at hand, and not in all regions stores sell such goods. We do the same (sealing and fastening with dowels to the wall) at the corners of the profile.

Video - Installation of a frame made of profiles and hangers

We work with the main ceiling profile

Step 1. The most common dimensions of drywall are 1.2x2.5 m (we will say this is the standard). It is recommended to install ceiling profiles every 0.4 m - in this way, each sheet will be fixed at the edges and twice in the middle. Therefore, we mark the ceiling with a bright pencil or chalk lines in 40-centimeter increments.

Step 2. In the places of the transverse joint of the sheets (that is, every 2.5 m) we install jumpers from the same profile. With non-standard sizes of drywall, respectively, we calculate the distances individually for a specific size. We fix the joints with "crabs".

Step 3. Determine the location of the suspensions: a distance of 25 cm from the first wall, then every 50 cm, and so on until the end of the ceiling zone. Suspensions are attached to the ceiling with anchor bolts (the dowels are not suitable, because they have no thread and under the weight of the structure, over time, they will inevitably be slowly pulled out due to their attraction to the ground).

Step 4. We attach the ceiling profiles to the hangers. We start the procedure from the corners of the room. Our wireframe is now complete.

Initially, remember the important nuances: plasterboard is sensitive to deformations, changes in temperature and humidity during storage. Store it only in a horizontal position, and before the start of installation work, the material should “mature” for a couple of days in the room where it will be installed - this adapts the structure of the drywall to local temperature and humidity conditions.

Sequencing:

we calculate the material consumption in advance;
we cut the necessary parts for those places where it takes less than a whole sheet;
with a construction knife, we remove the chamfer on the edge so as to further ensure good penetration of the putty into the gap;
we begin to fasten the sheets to the ceiling profile from the wall and from the corner, place the screw from the edge by 10-15 cm and 20 cm from each other;

Attention! We must "sink" the screw heads in the slots, check by touch. On adjacent sheets, we place the screws not opposite each other, but at random;

we make sure that there is a small gap around the perimeter (1.5-2 mm);
make sure that sheet to sheet is joined with a shift of at least one cell;
we make sure that each sheet is attached at the edges and in the center.

The final stage

Seams must be given special attention, because the appearance of the future ceiling depends on the quality of their sealing.

Important points:

Remember to wear protective equipment when working with dust, primer, putty and paint. Wear goggles, respirator, mask. Precautions will keep you healthy and heighten the joy of your DIY plasterboard ceiling.