Treat the log house from the outside. How to process a wooden house from the outside? Constant contact with salt water
A wooden house is an environmentally friendly and safe house that will never lose popularity. Natural wood does not emit toxic hazardous substances, has a pleasant forest scent and promotes a rapid exchange of oxygen. In such a house there is always fresh air, a comfortable environment and a cozy atmosphere.
The logs are easy to stack, which shortens the installation time. Due to their low weight, they do not require a deep, expensive foundation. And thanks to the natural beauty and aesthetics of the materials, no serious and expensive finishing is required.
However, wooden houses also have a significant disadvantage. Wood is a natural material that is exposed to negative environmental influences. The sun's rays, moisture and precipitation, insects lead to the fact that the material gradually darkens and collapses. Mold, cracks and fungus appear, and the structure loses its original appearance. To avoid these problems, it is necessary to process the log house inside and outside using various means.
Why do you need to process a log house from the outside
- Protects wood from destruction;
- Keeps the original appearance of a bathhouse or a log house for a long time;
- Prevents the appearance of fungus and rot;
- Prevents insects and moisture;
- Increases the service life of a wooden house or bath;
- Improves the aesthetic qualities of logs, if necessary, you can change the appearance of the facade, get the desired color, shade or shine;
- Fire retardant treatment is required for a log house, since fire is a significant threat to wood.
What means to choose
Today the market offers a lot of tools for treating a log house outside and inside. It is important that they are environmentally friendly and retain the natural properties of wood. In addition, the products must fulfill the protective functions of the tree from moisture, insects and other negative factors. Decorative properties are also of great importance. There are four main groups of funds that will be needed to process the outside of the house:
- Antiseptics are deeply absorbed into the wood, increasing the resistance of the logs to moisture and microbes. Antiseptic agents include wax, protective varnish and oils. They destroy mold and blue.
- Flame retardants prevent the spread of fire. At elevated temperatures, the composition of the product comes out of the logs and forms a protective film. Such means prevent instant ignition and resist open fire for several hours.
- Preservative solutions and impregnations keep the wood in good condition. Special impregnating materials keep the surface smooth and even and prevent cracking. And film-forming compounds also create a water-repellent barrier. For these purposes, a primer or wood oils are suitable.
- Protective finishing agents are mainly intended for decorating wood. These are paints and varnishes for wood. They protect the wood surface from discoloration and dirt. There are also special bleaching compounds that will prevent the wood from darkening over time.
Do not choose one product that will immediately protect against mold and rot, insects and fire, while still performing decorative functions. Practice proves that such impregnations are not very effective. To achieve a high-quality and durable result, it is better to use fire retardants, antiseptics and decorative paints and varnishes separately.
Top best products for outdoor wood treatment
| Brand | Characteristic | Price |
| Senezh (Russia) | Difficult to wash off high-class formulations in 20 types, including whitening and renewing formulations, antiseptics for baths, houses and gazebos; protect from fire, pests and moisture, provides protection for more than 10 years! | from 380 rubles (5kg) |
| Belinka (Slovenia) | Natural and safe products of high efficiency, protect from ultraviolet radiation, moisture, insects and fire, a wide range of products | from 400 rubles (1l) |
| Pinotex (Estonia) | Polymer-based products protect against mold and moisture, fungus and insects, withstand sudden temperature changes, therefore they are optimal for outdoor processing | from 280 rubles (1 l) |
| Neomid (Russia) | Effective impregnation for houses, saunas and wooden floors, protects the surface from moisture for 5-7 years, produces special means for processing the ends, a good combination of price and quality | from 200 rubles (1 l) |
| Tikkurila (Finland) | Moisture-resistant products, create a thin protective film and provide reliable protection against precipitation, are of high quality and positive reviews | from 250 rubles (1l) |
| Aquatex (Russia) | Produced in the form of a primer and impregnation, colorless and tinted versions (15 colors), protects against fungus, ultraviolet radiation and moisture, suitable for middle-class wood | from 200 rubles (1 l) |
| Siteks (Russia) | Suitable for any type of wood, protects logs from moisture, retains the appearance of the structure for 10 years, colorless and tinted options (12 colors) | from 200 rubles (1 l) |
How to properly process a log house outside
- For the first time, the blockhouse is treated with antiseptics inside and outside immediately after assembly. Pay special attention to the processing of ends and logs in contact with the foundation. Antiseptics are applied in two layers;
- Primary processing should not be desired at temperatures below 10-12 degrees!;
- The next processing is done after the logs have completely dried and the log house has shrunk. This takes 6-12 months. This finish implies the final complex and multi-layer processing of the house, which will ensure the protection of the log for a long time. It is important to apply antiseptics to a dry and clean wood surface !;
- Before processing, the logs are sanded to remove the top layer, in which fungus and microbes have gathered during shrinkage. It will remove defects in the log and level the surface. Sanding of wooden walls is imperative for an old house, since it is important to completely remove the old coating;
- Processing with a brush will take a long time, but it will be of the highest quality, most effective and durable. To speed up the process, spray guns are used. But for processing ends, corners and hard-to-reach places, take only a brush;
- First of all, antiseptic agents are applied in two or three layers. After drying, the tree is treated with fire retardants in one or two layers and also leave to dry. The next layer is a primer. It will protect the wood from cracking and level the walls;
- Treat the ends carefully. These parts of the logs absorb moisture faster than others and are therefore more susceptible to rotting. To avoid this, each end processing is done in 4-5 layers;
- The final stage is a decorative coating that will preserve the appearance of the house and protect the surface from sunlight. With the help of colored paints and varnishes, a certain color or shade, matte or glossy shine is achieved. If you want to preserve the natural color of the wood, use transparent paints and varnishes.
How and how to paint a log house outside
Painting is the final stage of processing a log house outside and inside. Today there are many different paints and varnishes. For exterior paint, choose a coarse and resistant compound. Consider the popular types of funds:
- Glazing transparent varnishes will preserve the color and accentuate the texture of the wood, protect the surface from moisture, mold and rot;
- Covering opaque varnishes will help to achieve the desired shine and shade, protect against insects, high humidity and ultraviolet radiation;
- Oil paints penetrate deeply into the structure of the log, keep the surface from moisture and dirt. But they dry for a long time (two weeks) and eventually lose their color !;
- Water-based acrylic paints and varnishes are natural, safe products that provide a dense, elastic coating. They protect against moisture, cracking and fungus. Such compositions give the tree “breathe”, but are expensive;
- Alkyd varnishes form a hard and even surface, retain their color for a long time and provide protection from moisture. However, such means do not allow the wood to "breathe", which over time causes drying and cracking of the log;
- Yacht varnish is suitable for places with high humidity and high rainfall. It is a reliable protection against moisture, which is not affected by weather and temperature extremes. Such varnish does not fade and prevents yellowing of the wood, however, it emits an unpleasant odor during painting;
- Stain is an affordable and cheap way of finishing a log house inside and outside. It protects against fungus and pests, does not disturb the wood grain and makes the color more intense. However, the stain requires subsequent varnishing;
- Oils and wax are environmentally friendly safe products that are deeply absorbed into the wood and protect the logs from moisture and dirt. The wax will give the surface a translucent matte sheen.
To paint the log house with high quality, wait until the primer is completely dry. Stir the composition thoroughly before painting. First, paint is applied in two or three layers. Wait until the first coat is completely dry before applying each new coat. For painting use a roller, for hard-to-reach places, corners and ends - a brush.
When using a spray gun, it is not always possible to achieve an even and smooth coating. In addition, unpainted areas may remain. Apply the last coat of paint in a thin layer from top to bottom.
After the paint has completely dried, the varnish is applied in two or three layers. For an even coating without build-up, let each layer dry and apply in long, even strokes. For decorative coating, you can use only varnish or only paint. However, the use of both means will consolidate the result and enhance the effect, enhance protection and increase the service life of the wood.
If you do not know which product to use for treating the inside or outside of the house, contact MariSru b for help. The company's masters will help you choose the right materials, quickly and efficiently process and paint a wooden house or a bath!
A wooden house is rightly considered the best type of housing in terms of the combination of environmental friendliness, naturalness, low heat loss and affordable material cost. But the tree needs special preparation in order to increase the life cycle of the house and preserve the natural beauty of the woody texture. So how to treat a wooden house, and how to properly protect the structure and improve its appearance?
Reasons and purposes of wood protection
The main problems that arise during the operation of wooden houses are directly related to the natural properties of the material. In the process of preparing and carrying out the construction cycle, preliminary drying, waterproofing and thermal insulation of floors and roofs at the point of contact with chimneys and hot pipes are provided. But this is not enough. The most common causes of material degradation are listed below.
- Cause of the defect: Different rates of evaporation through the end and side faces
- Defect manifestation: Cracking, decay of the ends of the log house.
- Result: Deterioration of the log structure, deterioration of the quality of the walls.
- Cause of the defect: Fungus damage
- Defect manifestation: The appearance of mold, blue, discoloration of wood.
- Result: Deterioration in appearance. Gray mold causes many diseases, especially for allergy sufferers and asthmatics. When white mold appears, wood restoration is extremely difficult.
- Cause of the defect: Damage by woodworm beetles
- Defect manifestation: The appearance of channels with eaten wood
- Result: Decreased quality of structures.
- Cause of the defect: Ultraviolet rays
- Defect manifestation: The wood burns out, acquires a gray tint.
- Result: The house looks dilapidated.
- Cause of the defect: High humidity
- Defect manifestation: Rotting wood.
- Result: Destruction of the structure, risk of collapse of floors and roofs.
- Cause of the defect: Fire hazard
- Defect manifestation: From charring to fire.
- Result: Partial damage to structures and up to complete destruction of the house.
All of these problems can be easily avoided with the help of antipyrite and antiseptic impregnations for a wooden house, protection of buildings at the stages of construction and repair.
processing of a wooden house inside. Photo
Types of wood preservatives
Chemicals for treating wood-based materials are divided into two broad classes:
- Antiseptics, providing protection from moisture, fungal and algae damage, from the development of rot, damage by woodworms, crustaceans and fouling with shells.
- Fire retardants to protect a wooden house from fire and flame spread in case of fire.
Both specialized products and compositions of complex effects are produced. By the type of base, water-soluble (acrylate) and organic compositions are distinguished. The latter can be produced on the basis of highly volatile, wax or oil compounds.
To treat a wooden house outside, compounds with an organic base are often used, as they are more effective and difficult to wash out. Moreover, organic compositions may contain toxic substances, which limits their use. Acrylate-based antiseptics are safe, cheap, but often require either additional paint and varnish protection, or have restrictions on their use, for example, only under awnings or under siding.
By appointment, drugs are:
- primers(basic), providing comprehensive protection and conditions for deep penetration of decorative coatings;
- decorative(finishing), which enhance the basic protection, protect from burnout in the sun, allowing you to give the tree the desired shade or degree of shine. Suitable for processing a wooden house inside or outside, as well as enhanced protection of wet rooms in baths and saunas.
By consistency Protective agents are liquid (ready to use or requiring additional dilution), pasty and solid concentrates, which are diluted before use.
processing of a wooden house from the outside. Photo
Different types of drugs can be used for one or more of the following purposes:
- for primary preventive processing of materials for the period of transportation, before construction or commencement of operation;
- for periodic renewal of the protective impregnation after the expiration of the active exposure period;
- for the treatment of damaged wood.
When choosing protective equipment for export products, we recommend that you pay attention to the compliance of the composition with the norms of international safety standards.
Means and methods of wood processing
Protection of critical structures
Processing types:
- primary for structures operated in conditions of active contact with soil or atmospheric moisture (lower crowns, logs and subfloor, basements, piles, pillars, wooden roofs, pediments, cladding of log cabins);
- preventive for walls and partitions;
- curative for damaged surfaces.
Popular brands:
Nortex-Lux, KEDR-MV, Senezh, XM 11, Senezh Bio, KhMBB, KhKhS, Senezh Ecobio, Biosept-Ultra, Drevoteks.
than to process a wooden house. Photo
Impact principle
Antiseptics for primary treatment, penetrating deeply into the wood, prevent the development of fungal diseases, mold, bacteria, damage by woodworms, and also protect wooden buildings from the most dangerous enemy (house fungus, however, to a lesser extent than from fungal crops of moderate rot.
Drugs of this type are classified as difficult to wash off or indelible, and they actively act all the time while they are inside the treated structures. The service life of wooden elements can grow by 25-50 years, depending on the operating conditions. During application, as a rule, the color of the wood changes in order to better control the protection process.
For walls and partitions of dry rooms, colorless antiseptics are used, usually washed out. For this reason, they are usually used inside the house, but it is also possible to use them when processing a wooden house from the outside as a primer for subsequent paint and varnish or glaze treatment.
Some non-washable antiseptics contribute to the rusting of ferrous metals, so carefully read the instructions if you intend to treat the elements adjacent to metal structures with an antiseptic.
Do not handle frozen or frozen wood.
Protect treated structures from moisture until the final fixation of the product in the material. Usually the time is indicated on the package.
Protection of the ends of log cabins
Processing types:
Popular brands:
Woodmaster Biotor, Neomid 440, Senezh TOP, PU- Holzverfestigung.
Impact principle
Through the ends, moisture is absorbed and evaporates 10 times more intensively, which causes deformation and shrinkage cracking, especially strong for round timber. Protective agents form breathable coatings on the end surfaces that repel moisture from the outside and normalize the evaporation rate. Some preparations, for example PU-Holzverfestigung, cause deep hydrophobization of wood cells, continuing to protect the ends even after cracks appear.
The use of such processing of a wooden house from the outside is extremely important and can significantly reduce both the number and the depth of end cracking. Especially critical structures should be processed inside the house. The products are applied to the surface with rollers, brushes or sprayers once or in several layers with intermediate drying (determined by the properties of the end surface). Oil (wax) or water-based products are available.
than to process the ends of a log house. Photo
Choose oil wax products to reduce overall consumption.
If the ends are already cracked or rotted, then look for a deep penetration product that can protect the damaged wood.
For critical areas, choose formulations that slightly change the shade of the wood so that you can carefully control the application process.
Pay attention to the compatibility of the product with the subsequent decoration of the ends, for example, tint or texture compounds.
Fire retardant treatment of floors and rafters
Processing types:
- primary before using lumber (immersion in a solution) or after the construction of a building (applying the composition with a spray, roller, brush);
- periodic after the expiration of the fire protection of the previously applied product.
Popular brands:
Senezh Ognebio, Senezh Ognebio Prof, Negorin-MS, Ultan, KhMXA, Pirilax-Lux, Pirilax-Terma, KEDR Zashchita-PPP, KEDR-AN6, MIG-09, OZON-007, KEDR-KD.
Impact principle
There are two types of means to improve the protection of a wooden house from fire: coating compounds (paints, pastes, varnishes, coatings) and impregnating fire retardants. In most cases, impregnating compounds not only protect wooden structures from ignition and flame spread, but also have antiseptic properties. In the composition of fire retardants (flame retardants, enhancing the effect of the retarders of the substance (synergists) and stabilizers limiting the consumption of synergists.
fire retardant treatment of a wooden house inside. Photo
Provided fire-retardant properties (1 or 2 groups. For especially critical structures, which include rafters and floors, fire protection group 1 should be achieved. For this, the number of applied layers is increased, as recommended in the instructions for the preparation, although there are also means to achieve high protection in 1 pass Attention: Some surface impregnation preparations are capable of providing only the 2nd group of fire protection.
Apply wood shade-changing compounds to protect critical structures. This way you will be able to visually trace the quality of the antipyrite treatment.
To control the application of preparations when processing a wooden house inside, use products with decorative toning in shades natural for wood.
Avoid contact with atmospheric moisture or droplet moisture until the drug is fixed in the wood.
Use specialized preparations for antipyrite treatment of baths, saunas, hammams, for example, Pirilax-Terma.
If protection of wooden structures with a previously applied paint and varnish coating is required, it is convenient to use KEDR-KD water-dispersion heat-expanding paint, which provides 1 group of fire protection at temperatures up to 60єС in rooms with humidity up to 80%.
Protection against blue stains and mildew
Processing types:
how to protect a wooden house from blue and mold. Photo
Popular brands:
Tikkurila Valtti Pohjuste Tikkurila Valtti Akvabase Tikkurila Valtti Expert Base
Impact principle
Fungal pores, penetrating into a wet tree, form local colonies that change their natural color to blue, green, black or pink. With prolonged moisture, the tree can rot. Antiseptics with a fungicidal effect penetrate the damp wood and sterilize it. At the same time, an increase in the hygroscopic characteristics of the tree is excluded.
Processing is possible in three ways: by immersion in an antiseptic, by applying the solution with a brush or by spraying. The protection time for freshly sawn wood materials can be 4 (8 months for different brands, provided that they are properly ventilated stacking. When applied in several layers and there is no subsequent washout of the product after processing inside a wooden house, the protection period against fungal infection can be up to 45 years.
When choosing an antiseptic, evaluate the full spectrum of its effects in order to reduce the efforts and means for the complex treatment of a wooden house. Many fungicides additionally protect wood from wood borers. Some manufacturers also guarantee protection against algae, fungus growth, cracking or increased resistance to fire.
Treatment of a wooden house inside from mold. Photo
Not all brands are suitable for processing wooden houses inside, and some of the suitable ones will then require washing out the antiseptic before painting or varnishing. Please read the instructions carefully before purchasing.
When using the formulations externally, pay attention to weather resistance. Some manufacturers point out the need to protect facades from prolonged exposure to water with awnings or siding.
Woodworm protection
Processing types:
- preventive before the start of construction and installation work;
- periodic upon expiration of the drug's effectiveness;
- curative with a small area of damage to wood.
Popular brands:
Lignofix Stabil, Drevoteks-Bio, Woodmaster Antizhuk, Belinka Belocid, Belinka Fentin, Antishashelin.
Impact principle
Many antiseptics have a barrier insecticidal property, penetrating a few mm into the wood and making it impossible for the subsequent development of wood borers (shashel). It is precisely because of the limited impregnation layer that it is advisable to process healthy wood even before the construction of a log house, since the use of chemicals with a large degree of damage does not make sense.
How to protect a wooden house. Photo
With the onset of biodefeat, the beams can be cured. To do this, a bio-antiseptic solution is injected (doused) into the beetles' passages as deep as possible, and then they cover the course so that the antiseptic can penetrate into the thickness of the beam. If the affected area is extensive, then other methods of treatment are used: fogation, fumigation, microwave treatment, dry steam, insecticides. In the end, all of them will cost more than treating a wooden house with antiseptics for prevention.
Most of the drugs kill only adult beetles, but Antishachelin is also effective against their larvae, provided that you manage to inject the drug deep enough into the affected wooden structures.
For deeper penetration of the drug into the depths, apply the product up to 3 times with an interval of 2 (3 days.
The period of effectiveness of bio-antiseptics can reach 10 years, which is significantly higher than common insecticides. We advise you to repeat the preventive treatment after the expiration of the period specified in the instructions.
Bleaching wood
Processing type:
Popular brands:
CEDAR Bleach, Nortex-Bleach, Senezh Neo, Bioshield-2, Neomid 500, Senezh Effo, Drevoteks-Bleach.
Impact principle
When wood darkens as a result of fungal attack, only the surface layers are usually affected, especially if there is regular moisture replenishment. You can mask the defect, but it is better to restore the original shade with special bleaches that penetrate inside and kill the fungal mycelium on the surface and in the body of wooden structures. Bleaches can be grouped into two main types:
With active oxygen. Mild impact without a destructive effect on the structure and without the release of harmful gases. Typically two-component formulations that involve sequential application or mixing just prior to processing.
When choosing how to treat a wooden house, keep in mind that the procedure for treating sparing brands with active oxygen is a little more complicated than with chlorine-containing products. It is often easier to choose an aggressive bleach for treating a wooden house outside, while for indoor use it makes sense to work with mild agents.
Decorative external and internal processing of a wooden house
Processing types:
Popular brands:
Tikkurila Valtti Akvacolor, Tikkurila Vinha, Tikkurila Valtti Color, Tikkurila Valtti Color Satin, Tikkurila Valtti Color extra, Luxens, Belinka Lazur, Belinka Top Lazur, Belinka Top Lazur + UV, Belinka Top Lazur Mix, KRAS and Interior, KrasAUL for saunas, KRASULA for toning, Krasula For interiors, Senezh Aquadecor, SENEZH Sauna.
Impact principle
Glazing, texturing, toning antiseptics are designed for finishing a wooden house outside and in the interior, they can be applied directly to wood material or over primers on the same basis (water or organic). The purpose of the decorative treatment (to slow down the aging of the tree, to reduce cracking, to protect against moisture and dirt, to prevent damage by flexible or bugs.
Varieties for saunas and baths, in addition, are characterized by an increased hydrophobic effect (the ability to repel moisture from the surface). At the same time, the natural texture and smell of the wood is preserved. Some products (for example, SENEZH Sauna) have an additional antimicrobial effect and destroy common types of pathogens of human infectious diseases.
Compositions can be colorless or tinted in natural shades of wood of various species. There are also matte, satin (polished) and glossy preparations. Many glazing antiseptics can be tinted. After applying antiseptic impregnations for a wooden house in areas of increased abrasion (stairs, railings, terraces), additional protection with varnishes is advisable.
For a deeper penetration of glazing antiseptics into wood, the procedure for processing walls should include preliminary cleaning from old coating and dust, applying primers (we recommend choosing primer antiseptics of the same company on the same, water or organic, base with a finishing composition).
Do not use external treatment products in the interior, unless it is provided by the instructions. Compositions prepared on an organic basis have a better degree of protection, but they can contain toxic substances and have an unpleasant odor.
Chemical protection of the house (an affordable and effective way to prolong the original appearance, delay the aging of wood, protect the house from fungal and biological damage, the danger of fire. several decades.
Wooden house processing. Video
A wooden house is an environmentally friendly and safe housing, and will be popular at all times. Compared to other building materials, natural wood does not emit toxic hazardous substances, promotes a rapid exchange of oxygen in the room and simply has a pleasant forest scent. There is always fresh air in a wooden house, it is warm in winter, and hot summer days are cool, a comfortable environment and a cozy atmosphere will delight you for many years.
The ease of assembly of prefabricated elements from a log or profiled bar significantly reduces the installation time. Due to the relatively low weight of the walls of a wooden house, a deep, expensive foundation is not required. And also, thanks to the beauty and unique patterns of wood, transmitted to us by nature, the aesthetics of materials will not require a serious and expensive finish.
TREATMENT OF A WOODEN HOUSE OUTSIDE: SELECTION OF PRODUCTS AND STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS
However, despite all the positive features, wooden houses have a minus. Wood, as a natural material, is exposed to the negative influence of the environment. The sun's rays (ultraviolet), moisture in the form of precipitation, insects lead to the fact that the material can gradually darken and collapse. It may also appear that mold, cracks and fungus appear, and the structure may subsequently lose its original appearance. But in the modern world, these problems can be avoided due to the necessary processing of the log house inside and outside using various means.
WHY DO YOU NEED TREATMENT OF YOUR WOODEN HOUSE OUTSIDE
- Protects wood from destruction;
- For a long time retains the original appearance of a bath or a house from a log or profiled bar;
- Prevents the appearance of fungus and rot;
- Prevents insects and moisture;
- Increases the service life of a wooden house or bath;
- Improves the aesthetic qualities of logs, if necessary, you can change the appearance of the facade, get the desired color, shade or shine;
- Fire retardant treatment is required for a log house, since fire is a significant threat to wood.
 |
HOW TO CHOOSE PROCESSING PRODUCTS
Today on the market there are a lot of different products for treating wooden houses both outside and inside. It is very important that the products you choose for processing are environmentally friendly and preserve the natural properties of wood. Also, the products must fulfill the protective functions of the tree from moisture, insects and other negative factors. Decorative properties are also of great importance. There are four main groups of funds that will be needed to process the outside of the house:
- Antiseptics are deeply absorbed into the wood, increasing the wood's resistance to moisture and microbes. Antiseptic agents include wax, protective varnish and oils. They destroy mold and blue.
- Flame retardants prevent the spread of fire. At elevated temperatures, the composition of this agent comes out and forms a protective film on the surface of the wood. This agent prevents instant ignition and resists open fire for several hours.
- Preservative solutions and impregnations keep the wood in good condition. Special impregnating materials keep the wood surface smooth and even and prevent cracking. And the film-forming compounds additionally create a water-repellent barrier, which prevents the absorption of excess moisture by the wood and, accordingly, prevents the creation of a moist negative environment in the wood. For these purposes, a primer or wood oils are suitable.
- Protective finishing products are mainly intended for decorating wood, in one word, to create and maintain the aesthetic appearance of a house or a bathhouse for a long time. These are paints and varnishes for wood. They protect the wood surface from discoloration and dirt. There are also special bleaching compounds that will prevent the wood from darkening over time.
You should not choose one product that immediately protects against mold and rot, insects and fire, while also performing decorative functions. Practice shows that such impregnations are not very effective and will not give the desired result. In order to achieve a high-quality and durable result, it is better to use fire retardants, antiseptics and decorative paints and varnishes separately, since each of them will give a more significant effect in the area of their purpose.
TOP BEST MEANS FOR EXTERNAL WOOD PROCESSINGand their characteristics |
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|---|---|---|---|
|
Brand |
Characteristic |
Price |
|
|
Senezh (Russia) |
Difficult to wash off high-class formulations in 20 types, including whitening and renewing formulations, antiseptics for baths, houses and gazebos; protect from fire, pests and moisture, provides protection for more than 10 years! |
from 380 rubles (5kg) |
|
|
Belinka (Slovenia) |
Natural and safe products of high efficiency, protect from ultraviolet radiation, moisture, insects and fire, a wide range of products |
from 400 rubles (1l) |
|
|
Pinotex (Estonia) |
Polymer-based products protect against mold and moisture, fungus and insects, withstand sudden temperature changes, therefore they are optimal for outdoor processing |
from 280 rubles (1 l) |
|
|
Neomid (Russia) |
Effective impregnation for houses, saunas and wooden floors, protects the surface from moisture for 5-7 years, produces special means for processing the ends, a good combination of price and quality |
from 200 rubles (1 l) |
|
|
Tikkurila (Finland) |
Moisture-resistant products, create a thin protective film and provide reliable protection against precipitation, are of high quality and positive reviews |
from 250 rubles (1l) |
|
|
Aquatex (Russia) |
Produced in the form of a primer and impregnation, colorless and tinted versions (15 colors), protects against fungus, ultraviolet radiation and moisture, suitable for middle-class wood |
from 200 rubles (1 l) |
|
|
Siteks (Russia) |
Suitable for any type of wood, protects logs from moisture, retains the appearance of the structure for 10 years, colorless and tinted options (12 colors) |
from 200 rubles (1 l) |
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HOW TO PROCESS A WOODEN HOUSE OUTSIDE
- Immediately after assembling a wooden house or a bath, it is necessary to treat it with antiseptics inside and outside for the first time. We recommend that you pay special attention to the processing of ends and elements in contact with the foundation. Antiseptics must be applied in at least two layers;
- Primary processing must not be performed at temperatures below 10-12 degrees !;
- The next processing is done after the log or timber has completely dried and the log house has completely shrunk. This takes 12 - 18 months if the wooden house was made from materials of natural moisture. This finish implies the final complex and multi-layer processing of the house, which will ensure the protection of the log for a long time. It is also important to apply antiseptics to a dry and clean wood surface !;
- Before processing, additional grinding of the log or timber is necessary to remove the top layer, in which fungus and microbes may have collected during shrinkage. It will remove defects in the log and level the surface. Sanding wooden walls is necessary for an old house, since it is important to completely remove the old coating;
- Processing with a brush will take a long time, but it will be of the highest quality, most effective and durable. To speed up the process, spray guns are used. But for processing ends, corners and hard-to-reach places, take only a brush;
- First of all, antiseptic agents are applied in two or three layers. After drying, the tree is treated with fire retardants in one or two layers and also leave to dry. The next layer is a primer. It will protect the wood from cracking and level the walls;
- Treat the ends carefully. These parts of the logs absorb moisture faster than others and are therefore more susceptible to rotting. To avoid this, each end processing is done in 4-5 layers;
- The final stage is a decorative coating that will preserve the appearance of the house and protect the surface from sunlight. With the help of colored paints and varnishes, a certain color or shade, matte or glossy shine is achieved. If you want to preserve the natural color of the wood, use transparent paints and varnishes.
WHAT AND HOW TO PAINT THE HOUSE OUTSIDE
Painting is the final stage of processing a log house outside and inside. Today there are many different paints and varnishes. For exterior paint, choose a coarse and resistant compound. Consider the popular types of funds:
- Glazing transparent varnishes will preserve the color and accentuate the texture of the wood, protect the surface from moisture, mold and rot;
- Covering opaque varnishes will help to achieve the desired shine and shade, protect against insects, high humidity and ultraviolet radiation;
- Oil paints penetrate deeply into the structure of the log, keep the surface from moisture and dirt. But they dry for a long time (two weeks) and eventually lose their color !;
- Water-based acrylic paints and varnishes are natural, safe products that provide a dense, elastic coating. They protect against moisture, cracking and fungus. Such compositions give the tree “breathe”, but are expensive;
- Alkyd varnishes form a hard and even surface, retain their color for a long time and provide protection from moisture. However, such means do not allow the wood to "breathe", which over time causes drying and cracking of the log;
- Yacht varnish is suitable for places with high humidity and high rainfall. It is a reliable protection against moisture, which is not affected by weather and temperature extremes. Such varnish does not fade and prevents yellowing of the wood, however, it emits an unpleasant odor during painting;
- Stain is an affordable and cheap way of finishing a log house inside and outside. It protects against fungus and pests, does not disturb the wood grain and makes the color more intense. However, the stain requires subsequent varnishing;
- Oils and wax are environmentally friendly safe products that are deeply absorbed into the wood and protect the logs from moisture and dirt. The wax will give the surface a translucent matte sheen.
To paint the log house with high quality, wait until the primer is completely dry. Stir the composition thoroughly before painting. First, paint is applied in two or three layers. Wait until the first coat is completely dry before applying each new coat. For painting use a roller, for hard-to-reach places, corners and ends - a brush.
When using a spray gun, it is not always possible to achieve an even and smooth coating. In addition, unpainted areas may remain. Apply the last coat of paint in a thin layer from top to bottom.
After the paint has completely dried, the varnish is applied in two or three layers. For an even coating without build-up, let each layer dry and apply in long, even strokes. For decorative coating, you can use only varnish or only paint. However, the use of both means will consolidate the result and enhance the effect, enhance protection and increase the service life of the wood.
In this article, we have described the TOPICS for you in detail:
For high-quality processing and painting, we recommend contacting specialists with experience and relevant skills.
During the construction of houses produced in its own production, VECODOM company carries out processing only with proven impregnations, varnishes and paints, taking into account the opinions of our customers.
Look in the catalog on this website for our finished erected objects OUR WORKS, as well as read the reviews of our clients
All wood species need additional protection, because the canvas is very susceptible to negative influences, such as:
- high level of humidity;
- abrupt changes in temperature indicators;
- exposure to the sun, etc.
But, it is also worth protecting the wood from insects and rodents, fungus and mold, which can completely destroy the structure of the tree.
Surface treatment of a wooden house outside
So what is the best way to cover a house with wood so that it will stand for many years? Today, it is easy to cope with such a problem, because various impregnations can be found on the market for this. These include not only antiseptic agents and fire retardants, but also paints and varnishes, various waxes and other impregnations that emphasize the decorative effect of wood and ensure its protection and long service life.
Wood processing with specialized compounds allows:
- protect the tree from moisture penetration into the structure of the finish;
- form a thin film on the surface of the material, which will allow air to pass through, but will not allow moisture to be absorbed;
- protect the base from the harmful effects of the sun's rays;
- keep the tree intact by insects and fungus;
- prevent flame growth in case of fire;
- add visual appeal to the structure, etc.
What are the tools for treating a house made of wood?
We process a wooden house on our own
And so, how to process wood and what is the best way to use it? The solution to this issue is not as difficult as it seems at first glance.
Wax is used to extend the shelf life and transform the appearance of the building. It is applied in a couple of layers, for which an exceptionally liquid consistency of the substance is suitable.
Natural oil is best used to protect the surface from the sun's rays. Such a substance, odorless, covers the surface in 2 or 3 layers with an interval of ½ day. Complete drying occurs in a day. You can dissolve the oil with turpentine, and the consumption of the substance is 1000g per 10m2.
Danish resin oil is used only when working outside. After surface treatment, it is covered with a transparent film, which initially smells a little. You need to apply the substance in two layers with an interval of half a day. The surface dries up after a day. Please note that the oil must be diluted with turpentine before use.
For processing a wooden surface, you must:
- choose the most suitable substance;
- treat the surface with an antiseptic solution;
- cover the wood with a fire retardant;
- protect from ultraviolet rays and moisture;
- apply primer or varnish;
- cover the product with wax.
Antiseptic substances
Self outside processing
As a rule, upon completion of construction work, a house made of wood needs to be coated with antiseptics, both inside and outside. It is better to do such processing in the factory, but if this is not possible, you can do the work yourself.
The classification of antiseptic substances is given in the table.
Basically, antiseptics are water-based, which do not interfere with the penetration of air. After such a finish, as a result of the surface drying, no smell remains.
In order for the antiseptic substance to cover the product efficiently and evenly, the coating should be carried out in several steps. For this, the material is covered with a special substance in a couple of tiers, and then fire retardants and water-repellent substances are used. This technology helps to permanently protect the surface and can compete with factory processing.
How should a tree be processed?
We process a wooden house
And so, how to process the lining inside and outside the house? To do this, it is worth adhering to a certain technology.
The process of processing wood for all substances is similar, but working with antiseptics requires special care.
It is better to perform the work in the following sequence:
- Decide which product you will use. Basically, substances are used that are able to protect wood from putrefactive changes and combustion. The substance is applied with a brush or a spray bottle in 2 or 3 layers. It is worth starting processing from the outside, and then proceed to the inner work. If you don't want to get your pens dirty, you can purchase wood that has already been factory treated properly, but the extra protection won't be unnecessary.
- Antiperen, which protects your canvas from burning, should be applied in two layers, after the surface has been treated with antiseptic agents. Antiperen is able to penetrate deeply into the structure of the material, after which it is not afraid of even direct contact with fire. Today, on the shelves of hardware stores, you can see different analogues of such a substance, which are developed for specific purposes. But, it must be borne in mind that the material can be charred, but direct combustion will not occur. Of course, not only wood can ignite from prolonged exposure to fire, but it is the fire retardant that allows the flame to calm down in time and prevent its distribution over the entire surface.
- The third layer used to process wood is protection from moisture, because the house should not absorb water. For such purposes, impregnations with a water-repellent feature are most suitable. Such a substance should evenly and thoroughly cover the entire wooden surface; increased attention should be paid to the ends. It will be enough to treat the sides of the log with two layers of impregnation, but apply the substance to the ends in 4 or even 5 layers. Such processing will allow the wood to dry quickly, and moisture will evaporate evenly, which will not lead to deformation of the wood.
If the wooden structure is properly processed inside and out, it will shrink evenly in the future, as a result of which you will be able to avoid cracks, distortion and large gaps.
Why use primer?
Upon completion of the application of protective substances to the tree, the surface must be treated with a primer, which will serve as a preparation for subsequent work. For these purposes, you can use an alkyd-acrylic primer, which is able to penetrate deeply into the cracks and "seal" them. It is thanks to the use of a primer that you get a high level of adhesion. You can use the soil, both outside and inside the house.
At the end of all the work, the wooden building should be covered with a bleaching mixture that will externally transform the wooden materials.
If there is a need or even an urgent need, the wood can be treated with other materials, such as wax. Such a frame adds attractiveness to the wood and prolongs its life. It is no longer necessary to apply paint, because the appearance is quite beautiful and does not hide the natural finish.
As you can see, processing a building made of wood requires the use of specialized substances that differ in different characteristics. Be especially careful when choosing an impregnation that can protect the material from mold and fire.
- Combined. Combined impregnations are compounds that protect the tree from various factors, for example, from fire and various bacteria, from water and the formation of harmful fungi. In places where the humidity is high and the risk of wood contamination is very high, such an impregnation is very useful.
Impregnation selection criteria
In order to choose a specific protective solution, consider some of the nuances. For example, if you choose a water-based impregnation, then you will need additional drying of the wood, which will lead to its deformation.
With antiseptic impregnations, which are water-based, treat the linings for the purlins and the purlins themselves, you can also paint the shields of partitions, logs and beams, beams. Thus, elementary lightweight structures can be processed, which will not deform or bend, and which will not cause much harm and damage.
Oil compositions and oil for wood impregnation have an unpleasant persistent odor, which is rather difficult to erode, and therefore it is better not to use these impregnations for wood in the internal processing of wooden structures. In addition, all oil solutions ignite very quickly, releasing toxins into the air. After you have treated the wood with oil, it will become impossible to work, paint and process. Therefore, oil impregnations are suitable only for wooden parts and elements that are outdoors and are regularly in contact with water.
It is necessary to choose an antiseptic impregnation for wood, taking into account a certain type of wood, since various species have different degrees of resistance to various biological destructors:
- “weak” tree is aspen, linden, alder;
Weak wood - oak, birch and beech sapwood, elm core and maple;
Medium-hardy tree - fir, spruce, larch, cedar sapwood;
Rot-resistant wood - ash, pine, oak core and larch.
Various types of wood absorb certain protective compounds in different ways, and this should be taken into account when making the final choice of impregnation. Three main groups of wood can be distinguished by the difficulty of soaking up the impregnation:
Difficult - spruce, ash, oak and beech core;
Medium - linden, pine kernel, alder, aspen, maple sapwood;
Lungs are beech, pine sapwood and birch.
The nuances of home impregnation with your own hands
The price of impregnation for wood will depend on its purpose and composition, but you can save a lot and prepare a simple protective impregnation for. In this case, the impregnation will turn out to be much cheaper than the budget purchase option.
Do-it-yourself impregnation base is bitumen.
Impregnation preparation progress: 
- Pour bitumen into an unused old metal bucket or container.
- Put the bucket on a fire and bring the bitumen to a boil.
- Remove the bucket from the heat and, stirring, pour in the diesel fuel in a thin stream so that the mixture does not have time to thicken even after it cools.
In order to prepare a quick-drying impregnation, dilute the bitumen not with diesel fuel, but with gasoline. But in this case, do not heat the composition - the bitumen should completely dissolve in gasoline. After processing the wood with this solution, it can be safely painted, covered with various enamels and primed. But in no case use nitro varnishes and paints!
Precautionary measures
Impregnation for a wooden house outside and inside, a fire retardant and an antiseptic, contain dangerous chemical additives and substances that are capable of. That is why during the processing process, remember about your safety measures, and undeniably follow the instructions from the manufacturer. Before you buy the impregnation, carefully study the information about the degree of toxicity of the composition and its possible use and application inside the house.
Impregnation for wood is a necessary and important measure of protection in modern renovation and construction... Regardless of the hazardous chemicals in the impregnation, it can significantly increase the operational life of all buildings and ensure safety from fires and various atmospheric phenomena. Good luck!
A wooden house is an environmentally friendly and safe house that will never lose popularity. Natural wood does not emit toxic hazardous substances, has a pleasant forest scent and promotes a rapid exchange of oxygen. In such a house there is always fresh air, a comfortable environment and a cozy atmosphere.
The logs are easy to stack, which shortens the installation time. Due to their low weight, they do not require a deep, expensive foundation. And thanks to the natural beauty and aesthetics of the materials, no serious and expensive finishing is required.
However, wooden houses also have a significant disadvantage. Wood is a natural material that is exposed to negative environmental influences. The sun's rays, moisture and precipitation, insects lead to the fact that the material gradually darkens and collapses. Mold, cracks and fungus appear, and the structure loses its original appearance. To avoid these problems, it is necessary to process the log house inside and outside using various means.
Why do you need to process a log house from the outside
- Protects wood from destruction;
- Keeps the original appearance of a bathhouse or a log house for a long time;
- Prevents the appearance of fungus and rot;
- Prevents insects and moisture;
- Increases the service life of a wooden house or bath;
- Improves the aesthetic qualities of logs, if necessary, you can change the appearance of the facade, get the desired color, shade or shine;
- Fire retardant treatment is required for a log house, since fire is a significant threat to wood.
What means to choose
Today the market offers a lot of tools for treating a log house outside and inside. It is important that they are environmentally friendly and retain the natural properties of wood. In addition, the products must fulfill the protective functions of the tree from moisture, insects and other negative factors. Decorative properties are also of great importance. There are four main groups of funds that will be needed to process the outside of the house:
- Antiseptics are deeply absorbed into the wood, increasing the resistance of the logs to moisture and microbes. Antiseptic agents include wax, protective varnish and oils. They destroy mold and blue.
- Flame retardants prevent the spread of fire. At elevated temperatures, the composition of the product comes out of the logs and forms a protective film. Such means prevent instant ignition and resist open fire for several hours.
- Preservative solutions and impregnations keep the wood in good condition. Special impregnating materials keep the surface smooth and even and prevent cracking. And film-forming compounds also create a water-repellent barrier. For these purposes, a primer or wood oils are suitable.
- Protective finishing agents are mainly intended for decorating wood. These are paints and varnishes for wood. They protect the wood surface from discoloration and dirt. There are also special bleaching compounds that will prevent the wood from darkening over time.
Do not choose one product that will immediately protect against mold and rot, insects and fire, while still performing decorative functions. Practice proves that such impregnations are not very effective. To achieve a high-quality and durable result, it is better to use fire retardants, antiseptics and decorative paints and varnishes separately.
Top best products for outdoor wood treatment
| Brand | Characteristic | Price |
| Senezh (Russia) | Difficult to wash off high-class formulations in 20 types, including whitening and renewing formulations, antiseptics for baths, houses and gazebos; protect from fire, pests and moisture, provides protection for more than 10 years! | from 380 rubles (5kg) |
| Belinka (Slovenia) | Natural and safe products of high efficiency, protect from ultraviolet radiation, moisture, insects and fire, a wide range of products | from 400 rubles (1l) |
| Pinotex (Estonia) | Polymer-based products protect against mold and moisture, fungus and insects, withstand sudden temperature changes, therefore they are optimal for outdoor processing | from 280 rubles (1 l) |
| Neomid (Russia) | Effective impregnation for houses, saunas and wooden floors, protects the surface from moisture for 5-7 years, produces special means for processing the ends, a good combination of price and quality | from 200 rubles (1 l) |
| Tikkurila (Finland) | Moisture-resistant products, create a thin protective film and provide reliable protection against precipitation, are of high quality and positive reviews | from 250 rubles (1l) |
| Aquatex (Russia) | Produced in the form of a primer and impregnation, colorless and tinted versions (15 colors), protects against fungus, ultraviolet radiation and moisture, suitable for middle-class wood | from 200 rubles (1 l) |
| Siteks (Russia) | Suitable for any type of wood, protects logs from moisture, retains the appearance of the structure for 10 years, colorless and tinted options (12 colors) | from 200 rubles (1 l) |
How to properly process a log house outside
- For the first time, the blockhouse is treated with antiseptics inside and outside immediately after assembly. Pay special attention to the processing of ends and logs in contact with the foundation. Antiseptics are applied in two layers;
- Primary processing should not be desired at temperatures below 10-12 degrees!;
- The next processing is done after the logs have completely dried and the log house has shrunk. This takes 6-12 months. This finish implies the final complex and multi-layer processing of the house, which will ensure the protection of the log for a long time. It is important to apply antiseptics to a dry and clean wood surface !;
- Before processing, the logs are sanded to remove the top layer, in which fungus and microbes have gathered during shrinkage. It will remove defects in the log and level the surface. Sanding of wooden walls is imperative for an old house, since it is important to completely remove the old coating;
- Processing with a brush will take a long time, but it will be of the highest quality, most effective and durable. To speed up the process, spray guns are used. But for processing ends, corners and hard-to-reach places, take only a brush;
- First of all, antiseptic agents are applied in two or three layers. After drying, the tree is treated with fire retardants in one or two layers and also leave to dry. The next layer is a primer. It will protect the wood from cracking and level the walls;
- Treat the ends carefully. These parts of the logs absorb moisture faster than others and are therefore more susceptible to rotting. To avoid this, each end processing is done in 4-5 layers;
- The final stage is a decorative coating that will preserve the appearance of the house and protect the surface from sunlight. With the help of colored paints and varnishes, a certain color or shade, matte or glossy shine is achieved. If you want to preserve the natural color of the wood, use transparent paints and varnishes.
How and how to paint a log house outside
Painting is the final stage of processing a log house outside and inside. Today there are many different paints and varnishes. For exterior paint, choose a coarse and resistant compound. Consider the popular types of funds:
- Glazing transparent varnishes will preserve the color and accentuate the texture of the wood, protect the surface from moisture, mold and rot;
- Covering opaque varnishes will help to achieve the desired shine and shade, protect against insects, high humidity and ultraviolet radiation;
- Oil paints penetrate deeply into the structure of the log, keep the surface from moisture and dirt. But they dry for a long time (two weeks) and eventually lose their color !;
- Water-based acrylic paints and varnishes are natural, safe products that provide a dense, elastic coating. They protect against moisture, cracking and fungus. Such compositions give the tree “breathe”, but are expensive;
- Alkyd varnishes form a hard and even surface, retain their color for a long time and provide protection from moisture. However, such means do not allow the wood to "breathe", which over time causes drying and cracking of the log;
- Yacht varnish is suitable for places with high humidity and high rainfall. It is a reliable protection against moisture, which is not affected by weather and temperature extremes. Such varnish does not fade and prevents yellowing of the wood, however, it emits an unpleasant odor during painting;
- Stain is an affordable and cheap way of finishing a log house inside and outside. It protects against fungus and pests, does not disturb the wood grain and makes the color more intense. However, the stain requires subsequent varnishing;
- Oils and wax are environmentally friendly safe products that are deeply absorbed into the wood and protect the logs from moisture and dirt. The wax will give the surface a translucent matte sheen.
To paint the log house with high quality, wait until the primer is completely dry. Stir the composition thoroughly before painting. First, paint is applied in two or three layers. Wait until the first coat is completely dry before applying each new coat. For painting use a roller, for hard-to-reach places, corners and ends - a brush.
When using a spray gun, it is not always possible to achieve an even and smooth coating. In addition, unpainted areas may remain. Apply the last coat of paint in a thin layer from top to bottom.
After the paint has completely dried, the varnish is applied in two or three layers. For an even coating without build-up, let each layer dry and apply in long, even strokes. For decorative coating, you can use only varnish or only paint. However, the use of both means will consolidate the result and enhance the effect, enhance protection and increase the service life of the wood.
If you do not know which product to use for treating the inside or outside of the house, contact MariSru b for help. The company's masters will help you choose the right materials, quickly and efficiently process and paint a wooden house or a bath!
Clapboarding of walls inside the house and other methods of using natural wood in decoration are quite popular today. Naturally, this naturally raises the question of how to process the lining inside a wooden house in order to protect it from moisture and other factors.
In our article, we will try to analyze in detail the features of the compositions used, as well as provide recommendations for painting and varnishing wooden surfaces.
Review of materials
Why do you need wood protection
Internal processing of a wooden house is included in the list of mandatory interior decoration measures. Indeed, the importance of the correct selection and application of a protective composition for wood can hardly be overestimated.
There are several reasons for this:
- Firstly, with a prolonged stay in a humid environment, the wood fibers swell, and all the details from which the finish is made increase in size... As a result, the wall cladding is deformed, which can lead to cracks and other defects. To avoid this, the lining and other finishing elements are impregnated or coated with compounds that minimize the contact between wood and water.
- Secondly, a humid environment, together with a high temperature, form an ideal environment for the development of microorganisms, including pathogenic bacteria and fungi.... The only way to prevent this is to use antiseptic compounds that have bactericidal and fungicidal effects.
Note!
Very often, beginners are interested in whether it is necessary to treat wood indoors with a normal humidity level with an antiseptic.
In principle, this is not necessary, but in any case, antibacterial or antifungal impregnation will not harm.
- Thirdly, the internal processing of the walls of a wooden house also performs a design function.... Modern compositions for the most part either contain pigments in a finished form, or allow the introduction of colors, so that, if necessary, we can simultaneously provide a moisture protection to change the shade of the finish.
Concluding this brief analysis, it should be noted that the price of quality products for protecting wood from moisture and microorganisms is quite high. At the same time, their use significantly extends the service life of the finish, therefore, ultimately, the processing of wooden walls inside the house is quite justified.
Used formulations
To solve the problems described by us in the previous section, a variety of compositions are used today. You can analyze their features using the table below:
| Means | Composition and application |
| Antiseptic primers |
|
| Aqualaki |
|
| Varnishes for wood |
|
| Oils |
|
| Waxes |
|
| Paints |
|
| Complex decorative and protective compositions |
|
As you can see, there is plenty to choose from how to process the wooden walls inside the house. However, it is not enough to choose - you also need to apply the composition correctly.
Work technology
Preparatory work
If you decide to paint or varnish the wooden wall cladding, then the instructions given in this section will help you to understand the nuances of the technology.
Work must begin with surface preparation:
- If the boards were previously painted or varnished, then the old coating must be removed. We soften the painted layer with warm water or a jet of hot air from a building hair dryer, and then remove it with a spatula.
- Remove the remaining paint and varnish with a grinder.
- If we are processing new wood, then it all the more needs to be sanded. To do this, we consistently use several abrasive materials, gradually reducing the grain size - so we get a perfectly flat surface.
Advice!
If there are defects on the casing, then before sanding, they must be masked by taking a small amount of wood putty.
After waiting for the putty to dry, we clean the area with sandpaper, and then we grind the surface.
- After that, it makes sense to treat all surfaces with a penetrating water-based antiseptic primer.
- Apply the primer in one or two layers, making sure that the wood does not get too wet.
- After the primed surface has dried, the lining inside the house can be painted or varnished.
Application of the composition
Both painting and varnishing can be done by hand.
The process itself is not complicated, but still there are several recommendations that are worth listening to:
- Having decided how to process the tree inside the house, it is worth purchasing the selected composition with a small margin. The thing is that the shade of paint or tinted varnish in different batches may differ, so it is better to paint everything with one material.
- Before starting work, mix the paint and varnish thoroughly. This is done in order to compensate for the separation of components that has occurred during storage.
- To apply the composition, use a wide flat brush. We also need a narrow brush with a long curved handle - with it we will penetrate into hard-to-reach places.
- We apply both paint and varnish in several layers. The more layers and the less their thickness, the better the result.
- The direction of the strokes should be perpendicular. So, for example, we apply even layers vertically, odd layers horizontally or vice versa.
- Dry the surface after each layer is applied. Drying time depends on the type of composition used, therefore you need to plan the work individually.
And most importantly - during drying, you should protect the fresh finish layer from the effects of drafts and temperature changes, otherwise the coating will quickly crack and peel off.
Conclusion
When choosing how to process a wooden house inside, you need to analyze what properties of the material will be priority for you. Well, information materials, including a very informative video in this article, will help to understand the intricacies of applying paints, varnishes and impregnations.
