How to close the joint between the stretch ceiling and the wall: a plastic plinth or a decorative baguette? How to make a joint between tiles and tiles - a variety of ways How to close the joint between.

Experienced craftsmen know how to make the junction of tiles and tiles invisible. Of course, if it comes to a straight surface (floor or wall), then there are no problems with joining tiles and tiles. Between them, plastic crosses are usually installed, which determine the width of the seam. After the adhesive has dried, the crosses are removed, and the seam is filled with a fugue. Everything is very simple. The most difficult thing is to join the tiles in the corners.

There are several technologies for joining tiles in the corners where they are used various devices. The simplest option is to install a special tile, which is a corner. True, this element can close the outer corner, for example, the ledge of a column or step.

The process of laying corner tiles is no different from a straight line. It is also planted on an adhesive solution, which is applied to two adjacent planes adjacent to one corner of the room. The adhesive composition is leveled with a notched trowel, the tile is laid in place and leveled. Even a novice master can handle this process. It is important here - to accurately set the cladding in planes by placing crosses between the elements.

Using trims

The most popular option for finishing corners is the use of trims. These are special profile inserts that are made of plastic. For external corners, trims are L-shaped profiles, for internal corners, this is a profile in the form of a concave arc. Before proceeding to the cladding, it is necessary to glue the profile itself. To do this, you can use liquid nails, sealants or the tile adhesive itself.

It should be noted that the installation of trims is not only an even joint between the tiles, it is a kind of design approach to solving the issue of decorating a room. A good trim, exactly matched to the color of the tile, is an excellent protection for the junction of the cladding elements, it is also a decorative element in the interior.

Trimming the edge of a tile

This is probably the most difficult option for exterior finish corners of the room. The thing is that the ends of the two joined tiles are cut at an angle of 45 °. This is not at all easy to do, especially if we are talking about pruning with our own hands.

For this procedure, you can use a grinder, an electric tile cutter. The most effective is a tile cutter if its design has an inclined bed. I.e, ceramic material is brought under the cutter at an angle that can be set with the help of inclined stops. It is very difficult to make a cut with a grinder. Here you need a steady hand and a sharp eye. But even after that, you have to earn extra money sandpaper, bring it to maximum accuracy.

The very process of gluing tiles with an undercut is no different from a standard operation. Glue is also applied on which the tile is installed. The main requirement is to precisely join the tiles together so that they create a single whole covering that closes the corner of the room.

Internal corners

Now, as for the inner corners. Everything is clear with trims, special profiles are used here. With an undercut at 45 °, docking can also be done. True, pruning will have to be done in reverse side, that is, with outside on the reverse. It is very important not to spoil the front side of the cladding, which can lead to the impossibility of installing tiles.

There is old way, which the masters have always used. To do this, the tiles were joined together so that one of them went under the end of the other. It was not always beautiful, especially if the quality and dimensions of the lining itself left much to be desired. Therefore, such a connection necessarily had to be sealed with grout or sealing was carried out using various kinds of materials.

Attention! If the tiles are joined at the corner between the wall and the floor, then the overlay of one element on the other will depend on the purpose of the room itself. So the bathroom floor ceramic tile should go beyond the wall. This is done with one sole purpose - to prevent the condensate that flows down the walls from penetrating under the floor elements.

All of the above options for joining tiles to each other are not always the quality of the final result. Especially if a beginner is engaged in finishing. Therefore, there are various materials with which you can hide the defects of the cladding. And then the question arises, what is the best way to close the joint? In principle, there are two standard options: grout and decorative profile. The second one is better because it completely hides the corner, and hence the defects. At the same time, it is already installed on the finished lining, gluing or liquid nails, or sealant (preferably silicone).

We must pay tribute to manufacturers who are trying to find ways to protect the junction of tiles and baths from leaks. In fact, this is the most dangerous area through which water can penetrate under the plumbing fixture, where it will collect and become a source of mold and fungi. And getting rid of them will be trumpet.

Options to close this joint.

If the wall under the bathroom is lined in the same way as the rest of the surface, that is, the device will be pressed against the lining, then it is best to install a special border (plinth) made of plastic or ceramics at the junction. In this case, the joint must be treated with silicone sealant before installing the curb. A plastic border is also planted on it. Ceramic is usually laid on adhesive composition, which glued the tiles to the wall.
It is possible to seal the joint with a sealant if the gap is not very large, no more than 1 cm. If given value is 1-3 cm, then the gap will first have to be filled with mounting foam.

Attention! For these purposes, it is better to use the so-called sanitary sealant. It will not form colonies of microorganisms (mold and fungi).

It should be noted that the sealant is very sensitive to unclean surfaces, it does not adhere well to them. Therefore, before applying it, the surface of the tile and bathtub must be cleaned. detergent and then degrease with solvent or alcohol. At the same time, so that the sealant itself does not leave on ceramic surfaces its mark, which cannot be removed by anything, it is recommended to glue adhesive tape to the joint, the middle of which must be cut along the joint. And that is where the sealing material should be directed. After that, the adhesive tape is removed, and the joint surface is smoothed with a brush dipped in soapy water. A tiled joint sealed in this way is reliable in terms of complete tightness.

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To date, laminate is the most relevant and sought-after floor covering, which is used in almost all rooms and premises.

However, using it in rooms such as a hallway or kitchen is not entirely practical and appropriate. For these rooms the best option there will be ceramic tiles. However, the laminate in the kitchen can be used in the dining area, and the rest of the room is tiled. And here the question arises: how to close the joint between the tile and the laminate (see video below)?

In order for the joint to look neat and beautiful, it needs to be hidden with high quality. Keep in mind that the tiles and differ in thickness. Therefore, they must be laid out at the same level in order to get a smooth transition. Do not forget to leave a distance of 0.5 cm between the laminate and the tile so that the tree can expand or contract from different temperatures and humidity, without being damaged or swelling.

Setting the thresholds

The most convenient and most popular way to seal the joint between tiles and laminate is to install thresholds. Using the same technology, you can close any joints of floor materials, for example: between tiles and tiles. Today you are offered a huge selection of sills. They are different in material: plastic nut, wooden nut, metal nut or aluminum, etc. There are different types and flowers. Let's take a closer look at the most popular ones.

Wooden sills

Wooden sills are the most popular, as well as environmentally friendly and the most beautiful. They are perfect for laminate flooring. This can be seen even in the photo. However, with all this, they are inferior in flexibility to plastic sills. And therefore they are not used for wavy joints. I would also like to note that wooden sills are whimsical in operation and require special care.

Plastic nut

For a wavy joint, a plastic threshold is perfect. They are relatively new on the market, but quickly became popular and in demand. The sills bend well, taking desired shape and protecting the joint from dust and dirt.

metal threshold

If you want to use a more durable material for the nut, then choose metal. Metal sills are perfect for any interior, as you can choose the desired color of the material from the variety on the market. You can choose a metal threshold in the color of the laminate or tile, as well as consider the color of any interior elements and thereby emphasize the design. If there is a situation that the laminate and tiles lie on different levels, then in this case you can use a multi-level metal threshold, which will help smooth out the difference.

Aluminum and rubber sills

Aluminum sills are used mainly for smooth joints. And for wavy joints, rubber sills are better suited. won't be too difficult. This work can be done by hand and in just a few minutes. Just remember to leave 0.5 cm between the materials. To fix the threshold, it is necessary to pre-make holes in the screed for screws. As a rule, they are sold complete with a nut. It is enough to fasten the nut with screws so that it is motionless.

Nut fastening

It happens that there are no screws in the kit. In this case, the threshold between the tile and the laminate can be fixed in a different way. It is necessary to immediately fill the gap with silicone sealant so that dust and moisture do not get into the gap. As fastening of the sills, you can use mounting rails, which are screwed to the screed with self-tapping screws. It is on the mounting rails that the threshold for laminate and tiles is then attached. Alternatively, you can use liquid nails.

Flexible sill or molding

For closing undulating joints various materials you can use and flexible threshold. It is installed on a plastic profile with bulges, with which it is attached above the floor covering. Additional fixation with screws is required. To make the molding more flexible, before installing it, it is worth lowering the threshold into warm water about 20-30 minutes.

Why use sills and moldings

A sill or molding is needed to close the joint between the tile and the laminate, and give it an attractive look. appearance. Also, the sills prevent the ingress of dust and moisture, which will save your laminate from the inside. The sills also hide the contraction and expansion of the laminate. It also allows you to zone the space.

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

It often turns out that even in an ideally shaped room it is impossible to lay linoleum without a single joint due to standard sizes material. The resulting seams should not only be invisible, but also durable so that the coating does not bulge over time. special attention requires a linoleum joint between rooms, because it is in this place that the load on the seam is especially high. To pick up suitable way coating compounds worth considering possible options joint design and devices used for these purposes.

Linoleum connection options

Linoleum joints can be sealed in several ways. They differ both in the complexity of the work being carried out and in the cost of materials and tools. At the same time, the quality of the final result will also be different.

Fixing the edges of the cover with double-sided tape. This method is good for its low cost and ease of execution. But the reliability of the joint connection in this case will remain in question - the glued edge of the coating will quickly begin to puff up.

The use of sills and overlays for linoleum. Another inexpensive way, yet reliable enough. The only negative is that such an element will differ from the rest of the coating and protrude slightly above the floor surface.
Edge bonding with dispersion adhesive. Such compositions, which are also used for gluing the material to the rough surface, are environmentally friendly, but do not provide complete sealing of the seam.
. For a monolithic connection of the coating strips, an adhesive is used that melts the edges and, after drying, firmly fastens them together. You can work with it at home, suitable for both domestic and commercial linoleum.

. It is carried out with the help of a special PVC cord, which melts under the influence of high temperature and fills the seam, firmly fusing with the edges of the coating and forming a single whole with them. The method is used for the commercial type of linoleum, it is quite complicated for independent execution. The connection is invisible.

Let's take a closer look at how to close the joints household linoleum with decorative sills.

What are sills for linoleum joints

threshold in doorway connecting the joints of floor materials between rooms - simple and cheap way, which allows you to fix the edges of the coating, hide the seam and possible installation flaws.

Advantages of the method:

It is very easy to fix the threshold with the included screws or Liquid Nails directly to the subfloor.
The pad can be used multiple times and is easy to replace.
The bar will protect the material from moisture, dust and dirt getting under it.
The product will last a long time, especially if it is made of metal. Competent color selection makes this element practically unobtrusive.
The thresholds have a decorative function - the design of the room will look complete.
If you decide to lay coatings of different thicknesses on a single-level floor, an overlay on the seam will help smooth out the difference between them.

But the thresholds also have their drawbacks:

The plank will stick out (albeit slightly) above the floor surface.
The threshold can only be mounted in the doorway or under the arch; the seams in the middle of the room cannot be hidden in this way.

When installing the thresholds, you need to remember that they should not interfere with the complete closing of the doors - the edge of the canvas will have to be filed or installed after finishing the floors.

Types of sills

It is possible to close the joints of pieces of linoleum with each other or with another floor covering with overlays of different purpose and material.

Depending on the design and method of application, the following types of thresholds exist:

Straight lines - for joints of linoleum of the same thickness.
Multi-level - compensate for height differences on the floor, with their help, coatings of different thicknesses can be joined.
Finishing - for sealing the edges of linoleum without connecting with other materials.
Corner - for the design of seams and edges floor covering on the stairs.

Planks are made from different materials:

Brass and aluminum metal thresholds are the most popular, because the connection is strong, aesthetic and durable. Most often painted in bronze, gold or silver.

Plastic thresholds have a shorter service life, but some flexible models can be used to decorate rounded joints, and the price of products is much lower. The requirements for them are spelled out in GOST 19111-77, which refers to the thresholds doorways for semi-rigid products. In the photo below, the flexible bar performs several functions: it zones the space of the room and hides the difference in the thickness of the floor coverings.

Rubber pads can have an aluminum base, prevent slipping.
Wooden sills and planks made of MDF are rarely used due to their high cost and tendency to swell from moisture.
Cork products are popular due to their environmental friendliness, softness and long service life. They perform a compensatory and shock-absorbing function.

How to fix the lining on the joints of the coating

Self-tapping screws or glue can be used to fix the slats. When choosing a mounting method, you need to take into account the features of both methods:

Mounting on self-tapping screws is much more reliable; fasteners are not visible in products with a decorative plug.
Glue cannot provide such a strong connection, but it is suitable for cases where the subfloor is loose and cannot hold self-tapping screws.

Every home craftsman who first started facing knows how to join tiles in the corners. And only with experience comes the understanding that there are no ideal right angles in construction, and therefore laying tiles is not at all as simple as it might seem at first glance. Over the years, true skill comes, and it turns out that there are not one, not two, but many more ways to decorate both the outer and inner corners. And each of them has the right to exist, and can be the only true one in a certain situation.

First of all - layout!

And the lining of any room begins with the layout, since in standard apartments there are not only perfectly right angles, but there are no perfectly even walls. The master tiler carefully measures the room, evaluates the condition of the walls, floor, examines the corners to choose the way to decorate each. It depends on what method of joining the tiles in the outer and inner corners depends on:

choice of tool for work;
the number of tiles purchased in excess of the norm, in reserve;
Actually, the layout itself.

Basic layout rules

The layout begins with the surface that will be most noticeable. For example, for a bathroom, this is the wall opposite front door. It is laid out first, and only then - the walls adjacent to it. The temptation to start facing from the corner is great, but if you give in, it is almost guaranteed that cracks will appear in the corners and under the ceiling, sometimes several centimeters wide, which will have to be laid out in tiny scraps. As a result, the deviation of the wall from the vertical will be very noticeable, and the impression of the work of the master will remain extremely negative for the customer. Therefore, when making a layout, you need to follow certain rules:

How to join tiles in internal corners

There are very few options for decorating the inner corner. You can do this in the following ways:

with the help of an overlay corner (trim)
the design of a regular seam without additional details.

Making a corner with a plastic profile

This option is used in internal vertical corners, as a rule, novice masters. With experience comes the understanding that plastic part, rarely perfectly matching in color with, rather reduces the cost than decorates the interior. An exception to the rule is the use of trims at the junction of the floor and wall covering. Here, almost always, a corner is appropriate and desirable. Do not like plastic corners in the bathroom and the hostess - for the fact that they quickly become dirty, but tiles are much more difficult to care for.

Easy pairing of 2 rows of tiles

Self-joining tiles in the inner corner has clear advantages. Firstly, the corner designed in this way looks more organic, especially in small rooms. Secondly, this method does not require additional parts, which further increase the cost of repairs.

Of course, the simple pairing method also has disadvantages. This is the professionalism of the master as necessary condition and a high probability of cracking along the seam due to the natural tendency of the tile to both contract and expand. Especially often this problem occurs when facing drywall constructions, but on brick walls that's great rarity.

Prevention of crack formation are:

correct calculation of the width of the seam;
use in vertical inner corners of sanitary silicone.

Important! Registration inner corner without the use of an overlay corner and without a seam design is unacceptable! The result of this installation will be a black gap at the junction. It will be possible to correct the appearance only with silicone. But it is unlikely that it will be possible to pick it up exactly in the tone of the grout.

How to join tiles in outer corners

There are many more ways to arrange an external corner. This is:

use of trims and ;
technology for trimming the ends of tiles at an angle of 45 °;
simple styling one row of tiles to the edge of another;
forming an angle with grout.

Method 1: Using a corner trim to lay out outside corners

Shops today offer a wide range of corner profiles for laying tiles. They are made from plastic, aluminum and even brass and can be the most different colors and sizes. The size of the corner must be selected based on the thickness of the selected tile, which is usually 7, 9 or 11 mm.

Interestingly, in most European countries, trims are used everywhere, due to the ease of cornering. In Russia, the mass fashion for corners is slowly but surely declining for a number of reasons:

the desire to be not like everyone else;
the small size of most apartments, in which extra details in the cladding crush the room, visually making it even smaller;
fragility of plastic trims, and their high tendency to pollution;
the high cost of metal corners;
the emergence of new, more aesthetic methods of facing the outer corners.

Trim angle installation

Installation decorative corner made after one wall in the room is completely lined. Then, along the entire height of the corner, using a mounting gun, apply silicone sealant. The flat side of the trim is applied to the already laid tile, while the groove of the part remains free to lie on the adjoining wall. In the future, the tile is laid along this wall from the bottom up, and the master inserts the edge of the facing material into the groove of the corner. A day after the end of work, the seams between the tile and the trim are overwritten. Installation is carried out in the same way decorative element and in horizontal corners.

Method 2: Cut the edge of the tile at a 45° angle

If the question "How to connect the tiles in the outer corners?" the master replies: “Of course, at an angle of 45 °!” - in front of you true professional. Just because this method beginners are too tough, because it requires experience, firmness of movements and a lot of time. In addition, here you can not do without good tool, namely the angular grinder. She works with the help of diamond disc. If you need to cut double-fired tiles, it is better to use a tile cutter with a swivel-type bed.

The disadvantage of this design is the fragility of the resulting angle. One has only to hit the masonry edge well, and with a high probability the tile will break off. Nevertheless, fans of the method are ready to put up with it, because no other way of designing a corner gives such a harmonious result: the beveled edges fit perfectly with each other, and form a perfectly right angle with a thin, barely noticeable gap.

Method 3. Laying one row of tiles on the edge of another

This technique is good for beginners, because there is nothing complicated in it. At first facing material one wall is fully laid out, then another, the extreme tile of which simply overlaps the edge of the tiles laid perpendicularly. Very often, this laying method is chosen for laying tiles with a relief, because in most cases it is chosen, succumbing to the opinion that seams, joints and wall irregularities will not be so noticeable on the textured surface. This is true, as well as the fact that it is embossed, it is very difficult to dock beautifully in the corners.

Another type of laying method is in a run: in the first row, tiles of one wall are placed on top, in the second - another, and so on. Very often this method is used when facing rooms. As a result, the masonry turns out to be deliberately careless, as appropriate as possible in country or loft-style interiors.

Method 4. Forming a corner with grout

Its essence: laying tiles without trimming and without protrusion on the outer corner. The resulting gap is formed in the form of a semicircle using grout or other adhesives. It must be admitted that the technique is still unpopular, both among the masters and among the customers. Although it solves a common problem: eliminate brittleness outer corner and prevent cracking of the seam, which is especially common on drywall walls. Therefore, any master tiler should know how to close the joints in the corners with grout.

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How to join tiles in corners

expansion joints between ceiling tiles are among the most complex surface defects. For decades, people struggled with this problem, but the cracks reappeared due to the shrinkage of the building and seasonal ground movements. Construction market proposes to solve this issue by installing a hinged structure, which will hide all defects. However, only a few can afford such an expensive purchase, and the dimensions of the room are not always suitable. How to seal the seams between the tiles on the ceiling to forget about this problem forever?

To ceiling seams were not visible, it is necessary to carry out a number of finishing activities using special means. But first you need to prepare the surface for work - remove the old coating. It is also worth ridding the seams of cement and lime.

A thorough primer can only be carried out on a dry, cleaned ceiling.

In the process of work, you can not proceed to applying the next layer until the previous one dries. This is important nuance which must be observed. Otherwise, the quality of the work performed will suffer.

How to seal the seams on the ceiling between the plates: a quick way to get rid of large cracks

If as finishing material wallpaper or fabric will be used for the ceiling, then you can seal the seam between the plates using construction foam and putties. It's simple and fast way, which is most often used in the presence of wide and deep cracks.

If future plans include full alignment and painting of the ceiling, it is better to use a better method of sealing the seam.

Otherwise, after a while the surface will have to be decorated again. Because on the ceiling in places of grouting, rusts can form, which the paint cannot hide.

The process of overlapping the seam is divided into several stages:

First, the crack is expanded with a perforator. For this work, it is better to use a special spatula, which is included in the kit.
Next, the seam is cleaned with a construction knife. Then - smearing the crack with a deep penetration primer. This stage of work is best done using a thick paint brush.
After that, the seam is filled with mounting foam using a construction gun. After 30 minutes of drying, the excess material is cut off so that a flat surface is obtained. For the best result, it is better to use a clerical knife.
Next, the primer is mixed from dry building mix, which is then carefully smeared with a seam with a spatula. This should be done with confident rubbing movements so that the putty enters all the voids of the foam.
After 30 - 40 minutes, the second layer of the prepared mixture is applied with a wide spatula.

Similarly, it is better to close all the holes that are on the surface. Including the places where pipes enter the ceiling, if any. After drying the sealed holes and cracks, the entire surface of the ceiling should be primed and puttied.

How to close the seams on the ceiling: surface preparation for painting

This method is great for removing small cracks on a surface for which whitewashing or painting is chosen. The quality of the work performed will directly depend on the time that was given to dry each layer. Therefore, in order to get perfect ceiling it is important to follow the instructions exactly.

Sealing is carried out in several stages:

The first step is to expand the crack and clean it. Next, the seam should be primed and left to dry completely for 12 hours.
Then you can move on to puttying. For this job it is better to use building plaster, which in a small amount must be diluted to liquid state using PVA glue. It should be remembered that you can work with this material only for a few minutes.
The diluted mixture should be placed on an auxiliary spatula and begin to rub into the seam. After closing the crack, the protruding part of the hardening material must be carefully removed, thereby leveling it with the ceiling surface. Next, the seam should be covered and left to dry completely for 12 hours.

Another great putty option is a diluted cement-based tile adhesive. The use of this material almost completely eliminates the possibility of a crack along the closed seam.

The final step will be gluing a special masking mesh onto the seam, which is then smeared with finishing putty along the entire length. The final layer should be left to dry completely for 12 hours. After this time, you can proceed to the finishing putty of the entire ceiling and subsequent finishing.

The joint between the wall and the ceiling: ways to seal

Another common problem is the presence of a crack between the wall and the ceiling. This defect is an obstacle to quality finishes rooms and spoils the whole appearance of the room.

There are several materials that can be used to close the joint between the wall and the ceiling:

Mounting foam;
Gypsum solution;
Synthetic putty;
Moisture resistant putty.

The most practical and convenient to use is polyurethane foam. When dried, this material expands, filling all the voids between the ceiling and the wall.

Large joints can be closed with a reinforcing mesh, which must be placed in the resulting cracks. Often used and cotton (or linen) cloth dipped in adhesive solution, which is placed over the joint. The final stage, regardless of the material chosen, will be the application of a layer of plaster, which will fix the result.

What to do if joints are visible on the ceiling: final surface leveling

After completion of work on closing the cracks, you should proceed to the final leveling of the surface. This is done using abrasive mixtures.

The ideal surface will turn out if you use interlining. It should be glued to the ceiling before the final putty. This material helps to remove small irregularities, allowing you to get a smooth ceiling.

After application finishing putty the surface should be primed for the last time. After the work has been done, you can give the ceiling any color by applying paint with a spray gun.

Recommendations of professionals: how to seal the seams between the tiles on the ceiling (video)

Seams between ceiling tiles are a long-standing problem, which today is easily solved with the help of special materials and compounds. picking up suitable option, you should focus on the size of the crack and the desired method further finishing surfaces. Get the perfect ceiling hinged structures really. The main thing is to carry out the work step by step and observe all the important nuances.