Insulation of wooden houses lined with bricks. How to insulate a log house with a brick facade

Building a house from one brick in our climate is not the most best idea: its thermal conductivity is too high, which is why the walls must be thick. And here's how to use it finishing material- this is already more economically justified: facing the house with bricks, with proper insulation, will help to save on heating, and appearance will give the building a "capital". If the walls are made of foam block or other light and warm building blocks, then such a finish will also be windproof. Wooden houses are also covered with bricks, but in this case there are some peculiarities: it is necessary to ensure the removal of vapors from the wood, otherwise mold, fungus and expensive repairs with a complete overhaul of the finish.

What brick to use

Facing bricks are produced according to different technologies, thanks to which he has different characteristics and prices:

Ceramic. Of all the finishing, it is the most inexpensive. Of the minuses, high hygroscopicity can be called: 6-15%, depending on the technology and batch. When water gets into the pores, it expands when it freezes, causing destruction, the brick begins to crumble. Even a special finishing one, in which the bed (the part that turns out to be outside) is specially protected at the factories. Exit - after laying, cover the wall with a hydrophobic composition. Only those that do not form a vapor barrier film. When choosing, pay attention to this: excess moisture must be removed. Frost resistance of ceramic facing bricks is 25-75 cycles (how many times it tolerates freezing / freezing without deterioration in quality). The higher this figure, the higher the price. This is explained by the high production costs.
Hyperpressed or non-fired. This type of facing brick is obtained not by firing, but by pressing. It no longer contains clay, but lime with various fillers and pigments. The possibility of using pigments makes it possible to obtain a wide color scheme. The front surface is often non-linear, imitating wild stone. Looks decorative. But such a non-linearity threatens with delamination: an uneven surface, water flows into the pores more abundantly, and freezes in frosts. This is treated in the same way as in the case of ceramics: hydrophobic impregnation. Frost resistance of high-quality non-fired bricks is declared by manufacturers from 75 to 150 cycles.
Clinker. This brick is also ceramic, but a special technology gives it very high strength and density. A denser material absorbs water much worse. This is good for operation, but when laying it leads to difficulties: in order for the wall not to “float”, it is necessary to put it on a hard, low-plastic mortar, and it is more difficult to work with it. Another disadvantage that limits wide use material of excellent characteristics: compared to previous materials, it is expensive: prices are 50-150% higher, depending on the manufacturer. Frost resistance of clinker is from 100 to 150 cycles. Clinker cladding of a house with bricks is an expensive pleasure, but the most attractive in appearance.
Silicate. The cheapest, but also the most "quickly deteriorating" of facing bricks: its frost resistance is 25-50 cycles. It conducts heat better. Not much, but still: the average thermal conductivity of ceramic is 0.16, silicate is 0.18. In addition, it is heavier: on average, the weight of ceramics is 2.4 kg, silicate of the same size is 3 kg. More weight requires a more powerful foundation and the price gain (silicate is cheaper) is not so big. If we take into account that heating costs will also be higher, then the gain is doubtful at all. It is advisable to overlay the house with silicate brick in warm regions. In the north, this is completely unprofitable.
Cladding of the house silicate brick- the most inexpensive, but, unfortunately, the most short-lived type of finish

Choosing the type of brick is far from everything. It is also necessary to pay attention to the size and shape of the holes. full bodied finishing brick rarely used: it costs more, weighs more. On average, voids occupy about 28%, but they are large and small. With equal characteristics, give preference to bricks with small holes: the mortar will not flow into them. This will reduce the consumption of masonry mortar, and increase the strength of the masonry.

If you decide to veneer the house with hyper-pressed brick, it should be made no earlier than 15-20 days ago. During this time, it gains basic strength (about 80%) and it can already be safely transported and loaded.

Please note that during storage, the brick packaging should not be exposed to water. This is especially true if you are going to leave it for the winter.

How to overlay a wooden house (timbered, log, frame) with bricks

Most of the difficulties arise when bricking a wooden house: materials have very different characteristics, it is not easy to make a good bunch of them. The whole secret here is the need for a ventilation gap between the cladding and the insulation layer, which is usually stuffed onto a wooden wall. A windproof membrane is laid over the insulation. A prerequisite is that it must be vapor-permeable (Izospan A, Isospan AS, Tyvek HouseRap, Megaizol SD, etc.). Only under such conditions will the room be normal humidity and rot and fungus will not develop between the lining and wooden wall.

Instead of windproofing, you can protect the surface of the insulation with fiberglass or fiberglass. With a sufficient thickness of the wooden walls, the thermal insulation layer is simply absent, the wind insulation and the ventilation gap remain.

The ventilation gap must be at least 60 mm. It stretches from the very bottom of the wall - it starts after the base - and to the top. To ensure the flow of air in the first row, ventilation ducts are made through which air enters. Outlets are arranged under the roof in the eaves. Ventilation area 75 cm 2 for every 20 m 2 of the wall. The products in the bottom row can be made in several ways:

put on its side a brick with through holes;
partially fill side seams mortar (when laying the mortar, lay a ruler, then remove it);
make two or three holes and install gratings.

About what kind of insulation to use. The most acceptable option is mineral wool in mats or rolls. The use of Styrofoam or Styrofoam is undesirable: they do not conduct steam. This will lead to the fact that the wood will rot, and the humidity in the rooms will be higher than normal.

Another important point: it is possible to overlay a wooden house with bricks only after the main shrinkage of the log house has passed. And this is at least 1.5-2 years. In this sense, it is easier with old wooden houses: the main processes have passed in them.

Pros and cons of a wooden house lined with bricks

The combination of materials so different in all characteristics is a complex and completely ambiguous matter. Of the positive points can be identified:

There are enough negatives:

All in all, not an ideal solution. If the house is still being planned, think a few times. Maybe it's better to build and then overlay them with bricks. These materials are much better matched and complement each other's qualities. It is worth lining a wooden house with brick if the house is old, the wood has darkened, it is necessary to give it a more attractive look.

Wall cladding technology

First, the wood is treated with a protective impregnation for outdoor use. Then a crate of planed timber (also impregnated) is stuffed. The dimensions of the beam depend on the required thickness of the heat-insulating layer. Usually for Middle lane Russia needs a thickness of basalt wool of about 50 mm, for more northern regions from 100 to 150 mm. But specifically, everything is considered depending on the thickness of the wall (from timber or logs) and the brick chosen for facing.

The insulation is laid very tightly, without gaps: the crate is stuffed taking into account its width. The distance between the bars should be a couple of centimeters less than the width of the insulation. So the material will fit with effort. It will fit snugly to the crate, which minimizes the formation of cold bridges.

An example of brick wall cladding of a wooden and frame house

A windproof membrane is laid on top of the insulation. It must necessarily be vapor-permeable, and if the vapor permeability is one-sided, then the removal of moisture is necessary from the room. Fasten the membrane with staples to the crate. Next, leave a gap for ventilation of at least 60 mm and put a wall of facing bricks.

How to do it right

There are a few subtleties that you need to know. The house is usually lined with half a brick. Without support, the wall is wobbly, especially when large areas. To make it stand firmly, it is tied to a wooden wall. There are two ways:

Single dressings should be located over the entire surface of the wall. There are different recommendations - at a distance of about 50 cm from one another or 4 pieces per square meter.

If you are going to brick the house with your own hands, there may be problems with the horizontal and vertical laying. The following technique can help, allowing you to simultaneously control all directions:

In the corners of the house under the roof and above the plinth, long pins are hammered horizontally. They should protrude from the wall to a distance greater than the entire thickness of the finish.
At one corner, to the upper pin at a distance corresponding to the outer edge of the masonry, a wire is tied and lowered down, movably fixed on the lower nail.
Its verticality is checked and set with a plumb line, and it is rigidly fixed.
Also, at the same distance, a vertical wire is tied at the other end of the wall.
A horizontal cord is tied between two stretched strings. It will serve as a guide when laying: it can be moved up as the rows are laid. Only each time it is necessary to check the horizontalness with a level.

All of the above applies to frame houses. They also require a ventilation gap device. The situation is similar: on the outside there is a material that conducts moisture much worse than those located inside. Only wire or strips of tin for dressing are attached in this case to the racks of the frame.

Reinforce or not

In general, reinforcement makes the wall more durable and reliable. Therefore, it is better to reinforce. But this complicates and slows down the masonry, which leads to an increase in the cost of work (if the craftsmen were hired).

If you do it yourself, then you need to lay rows with reinforcement approximately every 5th row. As reinforcement, a special mesh is laid with a cell of 50-50 mm or two longitudinal bars of reinforcement with a diameter of 6 mm. At the same time, the size of the seam, whether in a row with reinforcement or without, should be the same.

Facing the house with a brick "live" filmed on video, laying technique "under the rod". The seams are beautiful, but water flows into them, which is then absorbed by the brick. Therefore, in this form, the seams cannot be left. They must be filled with mortar and embroidered in the same plane with the surface of the brick. Then the absorption of water during bad weather will be significantly reduced, and the "life" of the brick wall cladding will be much longer. The laying process itself was demonstrated correctly: the mortar is laid neatly, drops that have fallen on the surface are immediately rubbed off.

Facing the house with bricks made of aerated concrete, foam concrete and gas silicate

Vapor permeability cellular concrete also higher than that of a brick. That is, the situation is exactly the same: inside the room there is a material that better removes vapors. Therefore, to ensure a normal microclimate in the room and a long service life, a ventilation gap is required between the brickwork and the wall and the foam blocks.

If you overlay a house made of aerated concrete (foam concrete, gas silicate) with bricks without a gap, its service life will decrease by about 60%: condensate will accumulate at the border of the two materials. At low temperatures frozen moisture will destroy the bubble shell, gradually destroying the entire material and significantly degrading its performance.

Cladding device options aerated concrete house bricks and their characteristics

Additional heaters are used very rarely, if they are still needed, all the rules are the same as for the lining of a wooden house: basalt wool, protected by wind insulation.

The value of the ventilation gap is from 60 to 150 mm. The number of connections between two walls: at least 3 pieces per square meter of masonry, their cross section- not less than 5 mm 2 per 1 m 2. For connection, screw or stainless nails with a length of at least 120 mm can be used. They are not hammered perpendicular to the wall, but at an angle of at least 45 °. You can use perforated galvanized strips, which are nailed on one side building blocks, and the second end is inserted into the brickwork, where it is bent at an angle. Note: ties should not be laid in the seams of the masonry of the main wall. Only nailed to the front surface of the blocks.

The best wall cladding made of aerated concrete and foam concrete is brick with a ventilation gap

Slag or slag house

Brick cladding in the case of buildings using slag is used more often when cracks creep along the walls. This happens mainly when the slag has exhausted its resource and began to crumble. On average, its service life is 50 years, it is reduced if the humidity of the walls was increased.

Brick cladding of a cinder block (slag-filled) house will only delay the inevitable: it will slow down the destruction, but will not stop it. The length of the delay depends on the condition of the material and the measures taken. On average, he is 8-15 years old. It is hardly possible to do without consulting a specialist: the price of an error is too high.

In most cases, it is recommended to build a frame around the house, on which to transfer part of the load of the floor and roof, to carry out waterproofing work. One of which is outdoor protection walls from precipitation with brick cladding. Brick is selected with the lowest water absorption. For more protection masonry can be impregnated with a hydrophobic composition (only not creating a vapor-tight film). Penetrating hydrophobic impregnation of the main wall will not be superfluous. To do this, you can use impregnations such as "Penetron" and analogues. They will simultaneously strengthen the material and significantly reduce water saturation.

Watch the video about the practice of facing old buildings with bricks.

About the choice of suppliers and prices

Prices for the same materials are very different depending on the region. In order to correctly assess the situation, you need to conduct your own market research: call or visit the largest suppliers, look at offers in the region on the network. During the call, you need to get technical data, find out the prices. Then compare the characteristics of bricks, compare prices.

What can be advised: do not buy too cheap materials. If the difference from the average market price is 15-20%, most likely, these are last year's remnants of not the most successful batch. Otherwise, look at the ratio of price and declared characteristics.

Average prices in Moscow are as follows:

silicate facing brick - 11-21 rubles / piece;
ceramic facing - 18-35 rubles / piece (corpulent 45-65 rubles / piece);
hyperpressed non-firing - 25-31 rubles / piece;
clinker - 27-40 rubles / piece.

After choosing several possible suppliers, see their product in person. Smooth edges, uniform color, no cracks or any defects - that's what you should see.

About the size of the party. It is advisable to buy the entire volume of cladding material at once. This will save you about 10-15%. some suppliers of large lots offer to bring in dumping norms directly from the factory. It's cheaper and eliminates additional overload, which means less combat.

The advantage of buying in bulk is that there will most likely be one batch, which guarantees color uniformity. In any case, the facing of the house with bricks is carried out from several packages at the same time. So even slightly different shades will not create color spots.

One of the most common construction myths has to do with natural warmth. wooden houses. In fact, the energy-saving properties of wood, as a rule, are not enough, therefore, houses made of timber are insulated, using one of better ways insulation protection - brick lining.

Why does a wooden house need brick walls?

The main advertising ploy of companies building houses from timber is the postulate about "incredibly warm houses where the ancestors lived for centuries. At the same time, no one mentions that it will be warm enough in such a house only with the constant operation of a Russian stove or other heating system of commensurate power. The heat engineering of a wooden structure of this type does not withstand any criticism either according to the standards of SanPiN or SNIP, while most of the shortcomings are quite obvious. For example, in a house made of timber, even factory-made, it is impossible to completely seal the interventional seals, the only exception is glued lumber. And if the house is completely free from blowing, then even the maximum possible thickness of the walls made of timber will not be enough to withstand the coldest five-day period in most regions beyond the latitude of 60 ° and close to it.

But the need for insulation is not the only drawback of log houses. Wood needs constant care, without which the surface of the walls will eventually become extremely unpresentable. Due to the mandatory use of impregnations and paint coatings, another myth about wooden houses disappears - their ability to self-regulate the humidity of the internal atmosphere. And even in the case of systematic maintenance of the building, it will greatly surrender in aesthetics due to sunlight, wind and rainwater, deep restoration of wood will have to be carried out every 7-10 years.

Brick lining is just one of the finishing methods that ensures the safety of the thermal protection belt. Often, the choice in favor of this technology is made only because the type of brick building impresses the owner more than others, or such a cladding is required for reasons fire safety. Otherwise, the brick lining does not bring significant benefits: it is more expensive, more difficult than many other coatings to install, and requires a capital preparatory base. But the option is interesting at least for its eccentricity: from the outside it looks like a stone castle, inside - natural, lively, and most importantly - a warm wooden house.

building design requirements

Brick lining is one of the heaviest types of facade finishing. At the same time, even part of its mass cannot be transferred to a wooden house, but not because of exceeding the permissible loads on the frame, but because outer side wooden wall must remain ventilated. Thus, a sufficiently wide plinth protrusion is required from the building to accommodate the cladding and, if necessary, thermal insulation, as well as the possibility of arranging flexible connections.

As for the protrusion of the foundation, it must necessarily have a width of at least 110 mm, provided that facing bricks with minimum thickness 65 mm and ensuring the minimum allowable non-ventilated gap of 40 mm. The reinforcing frame should be positioned so that the outer rods are located with protective layer 50-60 mm. An L-shaped foundation is allowed with a vertical dimension of the canopy of at least 250 mm. If the requirements for the foundation were not provided for during the construction of the house, the outer wall of the base is opened with a trench around the perimeter, a pillow is installed, formwork is installed and reinforcement is at least 150 mm wide and 500 mm deep. The reinforcement is reinforced with a mesh of 10 mm ribbed rods with a cell of 200x200 mm. If there is no possibility of rigid binding to the foundation of the house, it is possible to cast an independent tape with a width of 300 mm and a depth of at least 600 mm, while the reinforcement is carried out with a rectangular frame of 12 mm class II reinforcement.

The requirement for making flexible connections lies in the preparation of the wall surface. Get rid of the old exterior finish walls. In a situation where the house has already been used for more than 10 years in the open air, it is recommended to remove paintwork, re-impregnation with a bioprotective agent and application of coating waterproofing. Additionally, we note the importance of the waterproofing device between the foundation and the cladding. For these purposes, it is convenient to use aerated concrete blocks, thereby imitating the high plinth of stone buildings and providing additional protection for the crown crown.

Material selection

The brick lining of the house is notable, first of all, for the fact that it is a box in which another box is placed - the supporting frame of the building. For this reason, even being on different fairly stable foundations, the log house and the finish will perfectly take root to each other. In addition, the amount of indentation of the brick cladding is practically unlimited, respectively, the quality of insulation can be provided by one of the highest.

Of course, getting all the benefits from the brick lining of the house is possible only if it is arranged correctly, which largely depends on the materials chosen:

The foundation is the basis for cladding, it is on it that the rigidity and strength of the entire facade decoration depend. Concrete with reduced water absorption should be used, that is, grade W6 or higher.
When installing waterproofing with raising the base, it is aerated concrete that should be used, unlike cheaper foam concrete, it has extremely low water absorption and a tendency to capillary suction. If the insulation is arranged with roll materials, it is better to choose a film or membrane.
The choice of brick is completely free, it is only important that the predicted mass of the cladding corresponds to bearing capacity foundation. Usually 88 mm facing brick is used, porous ceramics and decorative blocks can also be used. In any case, the material should be hollow to reduce weight and improve heat-saving properties.
For facing masonry an ordinary solution on a lime-cement binder of a strength grade of 200 or higher will do. It is prepared from a mixture of Portland cement M400 with fluff in equal proportions, using three times as much sifted sand as a filler. It will not be superfluous to use frost-resistant additives and superplasticizers.
The masonry must be reinforced with a belt method, best material for this - hot-rolled steel wire 4-5 mm. You will also need plaster mesh for flexible binding of masonry to the frame. If the cladding is made of PCB, each seam is covered with fiberglass facade mesh to avoid spillage of the solution in the cavity.

The nuances of insulation and protective insulation

The list of materials also had to include glassine, which is wrapped around the log house before the masonry is erected. However, this issue is worth a separate consideration, because it is more related to the field of heat engineering.

Such a construction as a log house in a brick shell has its own specifics of heat transfer and moisture accumulation. It is necessary by all means to protect the tree from the accumulation of water, otherwise its durability is reduced significantly. The main source of moisture is the air coming from the building through the gaps between the crowns. Glassine retains this air, but at the same time, condensate does not fall out, because all surfaces are at a sufficient high temperature. At the same time, the ability of wood to independently regulate humidity is maintained, the likelihood of getting wet warm air into a heater or air, the blowing of the walls is guaranteed to be eliminated. The most important condition- fasten with glue and only to the central part of the beam, leaving small folds between the crowns so that the vapor protection can “play” as the tree shrinks.

You can insulate a house from a bar with any material, with an eye to some shortcomings. So, when using mineral wool it is necessary to protect the insulation from rodents, carefully sealing all the junctions, and also to beat the material with a windproof membrane from the outside. You can also use extruded polystyrene foam boards, foam chips or any other loose filler that does not shrink. It is extremely important to pre-calculate the wall pie in the thermal conductivity and moisture accumulation calculator in order to exclude dew point shifts to the area where moist warm air can be.

order calculation

The brick lining is good because by only slightly adjusting the width of the gap, you can greatly reduce the number of additional ordinary elements or almost completely avoid their manufacture. To do this, in advance, knowing the format of the brick used, determine the order of laying. This is done for each wall separately using the simplest technique. For example, we can take the most complex element of the facade - the section of the wall between the outer and inside corner. Let us assume that the length of the log house wall in this place is 570 cm, and the height to the soffit is 420 cm. At the same time, the foundation under the log house has a protrusion of at least 110 mm.

If cladding is selected clinker brick format 250x90x65 mm, then for laying the starting row without cutting stones, you will need 22 whole elements with a seam thickness of 8 mm. The most attentive will notice that as a result, the length of the row is 32 mm less than necessary, which can be compensated by increasing the gap by 16 mm on one side and reducing it by the same value on the other. In the second row, dressing is performed, the pokes of neighboring walls are taken from overall length a row of 196 mm, taking into account the seams. It will not be possible to lay out this row with whole stones, and the addition will turn out to be too small. In this case, you can make the thickness of the vertical seams in even rows of 11 mm, leaving almost exactly in right size. If the length of the row turns out to be slightly longer than necessary, the extension can not be cut, just lay a brick with a protrusion of the spoon inside the gap.

Also, knowing that the height of the row is 75 mm, taking into account the seam, you can determine the number of rows of cladding, which in our case will be exactly 56 rows. If this value were not accurate, you can compensate for the discrepancy using aerated concrete blocks. They are easy to cut into custom size, slightly raise the base and bring the final row exactly close to the soffit. Having calculated in this way all sections of the wall, you can get the number of bricks in pieces, and by adding 4-5% for marriage and battle, you can determine the final volume of the order.

Execution of facade cladding

It is advisable to lay out the starting row of solid stones on a waterproofing substrate of 3-4 layers of roofing material or 1-2 layers of blind membrane insulation. The first row sets the dimensions and configuration of the entire cladding, so it should be leveled with great care and given enough time to set.

The laying of all other rows should start from the corners and align with the mooring cord. If, according to the layout scheme, there are extensions, they are placed in the central part of the row in a random place in the areas between two outer corners or are shifted close to the inner one.

When laying the cladding, you need to consider several points. The first and most important is to leave gaps for limited air circulation in the row at the height of which the formation of a snow cap is guaranteed. The holes must be protected from rodents and debris, the neatest way to do this is to cut the grooves in the brick with a grinder and insert small fragments of a perforated metal mesh into them.

We must not forget about the reinforcement, which is performed in every 4 or 5 row. For this, 2 pieces of wire are used, the length of which is 20-25 cm less than the wall section. The wire is sunk into the seam, while the corners are tied with bent anchors. The cladding is also attached to the beam with flexible ties, which are well suited for pieces of fine plaster steel mesh 15-20 cm wide.

They need to be bent at a right angle, with one side nailed to the central part of the timber, and the other walled into the seam solution. It follows from this that the installation of insulation and the construction brickwork are carried out in parallel, which means that the work should be scheduled for a sufficiently long warm and dry period.

Facing a wooden building with brick is a common occurrence. Brickwork allows you to update and give the old house a completely respectable look. However, often at the stage of this event, many do not immediately think about warming, but during the winter it turns out that the brick wall does not protect the house from the cold. Warming a wooden house lined with bricks is not an easy task. Experts recommend doing thermal insulation of the building at the stage of carrying out facing works but, unfortunately, not everyone listens to their opinion. How to insulate log house having a brick facade? Let's look into this issue.

There are three ways to solve the problem:

Produce insulation outside the brickwork.
Insulate the space between the log and brick wall.
Make thermal insulation inside the house.

The first method is the most acceptable in terms of heat preservation and the safety of a wooden structure. But at the same time, choosing this option, you will have to sacrifice the aesthetic characteristics of the house, since all the beauty of the brick cladding will be hidden. In addition, it will require a lot of investment in new finishes.

The remaining two options have significant disadvantages, which we will dwell on in more detail.

Is it possible to lay thermal insulation between the walls?

Many experts do not recommend filling the space between the walls with any heat-insulating material. And that's why. When facing a residential building or a bathhouse with bricks, a technological gap of about 25 cm must be left. It is necessary for the ventilation of a wooden building. If the brickwork is made close to the wall, then after a certain period of time the tree will begin to rot, mold, fungus will appear on it, and everything will end with rotting of the wood.

This can also happen if the space is filled with insulation. Some, at their own peril and risk, resort to a similar method of thermal insulation, blowing penoizol into the holes made in the brickwork. The material completely fills the empty cavities, depriving the wooden wall of any ventilation. We do not recommend insulating the house in this way, as this can lead to unpleasant, but very predictable consequences.

Disadvantages of internal insulation

Internal thermal insulation is also not the best way both for log and for log house. Such insulation has several disadvantages:

Moisture and steam formed inside the house do not have an outlet to the outside, and the effect of a thermos is created in the room.
The dew point shifts towards the room, which leads to the formation of condensation on the interior walls.
The house will warm up faster, but also cool down quickly.
The usable area of the rooms is reduced.

As you can see, it is highly undesirable to insulate a house made of wood with inside if it is lined with bricks. Moisture will stagnate in the wood, which will lead to the appearance of mold and fungus, and as a result wooden structures may rot.

Regardless of which material and method of insulation is chosen, it is necessary to make holes in the cladding through which air will pass and ventilate the walls. In addition, a good ventilation system should be organized in the house.

Materials for external thermal insulation

In this case, the insulation of the house can be performed with any materials suitable for.

You can insulate brick walls with:

polystyrene;
mineral wool;
extruded polystyrene foam;
polyurethane foam,
thermal panels.

Characteristics of heaters

Today it is very common. This inexpensive material, which perfectly retains heat, is easy to fit, keeps its shape well.
One of the best insulation materials is extruded polystyrene foam. It has minimal water absorption and low thermal conductivity. In addition, XPS is very durable, due to which it is often used for thermal insulation of blind areas and foundations.
When insulating the facade with mineral wool, it must be taken into account that for external thermal insulation only stone and basalt wool with a density of at least 80 kg / m3 is suitable. Lighter weight material may lose shape.
For thermal insulation brick wall polyurethane foam is great. It has a low density, high thermal insulation characteristics and good adhesion. However, the material is not resistant to UV radiation, therefore, when insulating the facade, immediately after installation, it must be covered with a finish.
Thermal panels simultaneously perform the function of both a heat insulator and a finish. They consist of several layers of polyurethane foam and XPS, and their front part is made of clinker tiles, ceramics, porcelain stoneware or concrete. They have many advantages, but they are also quite expensive.

External insulation methods

Insulation with polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam can be done in two ways: laying the tile insulator in the frame cells or gluing the plates directly to the wall. A detailed algorithm for insulating an EPPS house is described in the article. Thermal insulation with foam plastic is carried out in a similar way.
is carried out by spraying with the use of professional equipment.
Installation of thermal panels is quite simple. Each element is provided with a tongue-and-groove fastening. First, a starting profile is installed, on which the elements are laid, joining them to each other. After final assembly the space between the wall and the panels is blown with foam.
When laying mineral wool, the installation of the crate is mandatory. The material strongly absorbs and accumulates moisture in itself, which is the reason for the decrease in its heat-insulating characteristics.
The frame laying method allows you to make air vent between the wall and the insulation, as well as to equip both sides of the insulation with a hydro- and vapor barrier layer. Detailed guide for the installation of mineral wool can be found in the article.

Internal insulation with warm plaster

For a wooden house, sawdust plaster is best, which consists of cement, clay, sawdust and paper. Air passes through it, which allows the tree to breathe.

The work is carried out in the following sequence.

And although wooden buildings they look very beautiful and rich, they also need to be insulated from the outside. This will not only create reliable protection from moisture, but also from cold. Installation work are not particularly difficult, but if you do not have the proper experience in this matter, then it is better to seek help from a specialist.

materials

Wide choose thermal insulation materials allows each owner of a wooden house to choose his own perfect option considering cost and performance.

stone wool

Cutting this material can occur even with a conventional knife. Since the plates are lightweight, they are very easy to transport even in a passenger car.

stone wool

When laying stone wool, it must be installed in the space between the racks of the crate, and then the vapor barrier material from the inside and the waterproofing layer from the outside should be laid. But how the wooden house is insulated from the outside with mineral wool for siding, this will help to understand

Ecowool

This material is characterized by its environmental friendliness. In its manufacture involved cellulose fibers. Produced in compressed packaging. The process of warming the material in question can occur in several ways:

Styrofoam

This material is considered one of the most inexpensive. It does not absorb moisture, so when installing it, care must be taken to lay a moisture-proof membrane. When working with foam, maximum accuracy is required, because it can crumble and break.

Styrofoam

It is sold in the form of two-component substances. They foam when applied under the influence of air. The principle of applying this heat insulator is similar to mounting foam. With its help, all the voids in the wall are filled. Excess material is cut off.

Thus, it is possible to obtain a monolithic layer of insulation that will not allow heat to escape from the house. Also, polyurethane foam is characterized by water-repellent properties. It is worth paying attention to how

Natural heaters

This category of heat-insulating materials includes slabs of straw and clay, sawdust. They are distinguished by their environmental safety, cheap cost. Their main disadvantage is the complexity of manufacturing. Linen fiber should also be attributed to natural insulation.

sawdust for insulation

The material has excellent antiseptic properties, prevents the formation of fungus and mold. It is easy to cut, install and does not cause the development of allergies. But how it happens, and how to do it right, the information on the link will help to understand and understand.

Installation work

The installation process of the insulation is different depending on which material option was chosen. If the heat insulator is presented in the form of mats, then the installation involves the following steps:

Treat the surface of the wooden wall with antiseptic compounds. This should be done in two layers, giving Special attention corners and lower crown. The ends of the logs should be treated more carefully, since they are often subject to decay. Such actions are carried out in warm weather. After that, you need to wait 1-2 days.
Using staples, fix a stapler waterproofing film with a vapor-permeable coating on the walls. Attach the joints of this material with an overlap and glue with mounting tape. Fix a vertical frame of boards on the film, the thickness of which should be equal to the thickness of the heat insulator. The step of the crate should be 3-5 cm less than the width of the heat-insulating mats.
Mount a heat insulator on the film between the boards, while pressing it a little. The final fastening of the material is carried out using anchor nails. If it is required to lay insulation in several layers, then the next layer must be laid with offset seams. Then upper layer will overlap the joints of the lower ones.
Fix a hydro-wind-protective membrane film over the heat insulator with staples. Fasten the joints with an overlap and secure with tape.
On top of the film, make a device for a ventilated frame. To create it, boards are also used, guaranteeing the distance between the layer of heat insulator and decorative facade not less than 5 cm. But how the floor is insulated in a wooden house from below, and what materials are the best, it is indicated
Fixing the boards to the lower frame is carried out using self-tapping screws. If the wall surface is uneven, then it is worth using perforated hangers for the profile. Thanks to them, it is possible to adjust the distance to the crate. For finishing metal siding or corrugated board, it is worth using a drywall profile instead of a board.
The cladding is fastened according to the technology recommended by the manufacturer.

On the video, how to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside:

If the house is lined with bricks outside

If a wooden house has a brick cladding, then it can be insulated from the outside using various heat-insulating materials. When choosing suitable option it is necessary to focus on thermal engineering calculation, thanks to which you can understand the effectiveness of a particular heat insulator, as well as its useful thickness.

It is also worth paying attention to what materials are the best.

Styrofoam

This material is most often used when insulating a wooden house with brick cladding. Its main advantage remains low price and excellent thermal insulation properties. Before installing the foam, the brick wall should be cleaned and leveled. But what is the technology for insulating the facade with foam plastic, and how difficult it is to perform, it is indicated

Styrofoam for insulation

Fastening is carried out using special bolts. They are screwed through the heat insulator into the masonry. Facade plaster is applied over the foam plastic.

You may also be interested in information on how insulation occurs in the form

Mineral wool

This insulation material has been in great demand for many decades. Mineral wool has excellent sound and heat insulation properties, provides decent ventilation and has low flammability. The disadvantages of mineral wool include a decrease thermal insulation properties over time.

Mineral wool for insulation of a brick house outside

Izolon

This modern material allows you to achieve maximum savings of heat inside the house. They produce a heat insulator in the form of rolls or a solution. To perform the insulation of a wooden house, it is necessary to apply liquid composition. Its injection is carried out by special pumps into the space between the wall and the brick. Using roll material there are a number of difficulties, so it is not used so often.

The use of isolon

Isolon is characterized by excellent impact strength, which has a positive effect on its service life. The only disadvantage of the heat insulator is that it has an unattractive appearance. So you have to take care of additional finishing.

You may also find it useful to know how

Brick is durable and non-combustible material, it can withstand high loads and is used in the construction of buildings of various heights. The main disadvantage of such a house is the high thermal conductivity of the walls. You can solve the problem by increasing the thickness of the brickwork or by insulating the building from the outside.

Insulation of brick walls is divided into three types: external, internal and intra-wall. The latter option involves the construction of a building with well masonry and the placement of a heat insulator at the construction stage.

Internal insulation takes away the usable area of the premises, it provokes the dampness of the walls and is not effective enough. Its advantage is the ability to perform work at any convenient time and the low cost of materials. If you have a choice, you should give preference to external thermal insulation.

Among its advantages:

The walls are protected from external influence and therefore will last a long time.
Significant reduction in heating costs.
The opportunity to create the architectural design of the house to your liking.
Absence of moisture, mold and fungus on the surface of the walls.

The main characteristics of thermal insulation materials

In order for the protection of brick walls to be reliable and durable, the materials used must have characteristics that allow them to withstand precipitation, wind, frost and heat.

The water absorption coefficient is a characteristic of a product that shows how much moisture it can absorb. It is better to choose a material with a low rate.
The coefficient of thermal conductivity is the main criterion in the study of insulation. It shows the amount of heated air lost in 1 hour per sq. m of material having a thickness of 1 m. This indicator is guided when choosing the thickness of the insulation layer. The best products according to this criterion are polystyrene and mineral wool.
Combustibility - determines how dangerous the material is in a fire. Products are divided into four cash registers according to this characteristic, it is better to give preference to G1, which go out without an open flame. Styrofoam boards are prone to fire, use them for sheathing, choose with the marking "C", meaning self-extinguishing.
Density determines the amount of additional weight on the structure - the lower the indicator, the lighter the material.
The level of sound insulation indicates the possibilities for reducing penetrating noise. All popular heat insulators have this quality to a sufficient extent.
Environmental friendliness - the criterion determines the safety of the insulation for health. For exterior finish it is not decisive, but natural materials preferably synthetic.
The complexity of installation - if the work is done by one's own hands, it is necessary to choose a simple and understandable technology for laying thermal insulation.

The list of popular materials for cladding a house outside includes a few products:

Styrofoam;
extruded polystyrene foam;
mineral wool;
warm plaster.

They have a different composition, cost and installation features. Let's consider each material in detail.

Styrofoam - plates made of expanded polystyrene, which is a cell with gas. This structure provides low thermal conductivity of 0.032-0.039, good sound insulation and light weight. The foam density is 35-50 kg / m3, the recommended layer thickness is 10 cm. The material is able to absorb moisture, therefore it requires waterproofing. The downside of the insulation is flammability, vapor tightness and sensitivity to light.

Extruded polystyrene foam - the product has the properties of foam, but in an improved version. The material does not absorb water, it is more durable and easy to process, its thermal conductivity is 0.028-0.032. The cost of extruded polystyrene foam boards is higher than other materials for thermal insulation.

Mineral wool is one of the best heaters, it does not burn, is safe, has a low density - 35-125 kg / m3. The raw materials for the material are glass, stone and slag. Air voids of 10-15 cm remain between the fibers, due to which the mineral wool has a thermal conductivity of 0.04-0.045, absorbs noise well and passes steam. For effective protection, a layer of 10-15 cm is needed.

The product is available in the form of rolls, mats and plates. Basalt wool in the slab version is characterized by resistance to deformation and increased density - 75-150 kg/m3. the material fits easily into the frame and does not cause problems during installation. The only drawback of mineral wool is its high water absorption, which requires mandatory waterproofing. The heater is affordable, which contributes to its popularity.

Warm plaster - a dry mixture of cement, lime, plasticizers and additives from expanded polystyrene granules, expanded clay, perlite. The material is somewhat inferior in terms of thermal insulation - 0.06-0.065, but has many advantages: it does not burn, has vapor permeability, is resistant to moisture and microorganisms, and isolates sound well. Plaster has a significant density of 200-350 kg / m3, so it puts an additional load on the foundation. The maximum insulation thickness is 5 cm.

Talking about how to insulate a brick house from the outside, one should not miss the opportunity to finish with thermal panels. This material is characterized by a low thermal conductivity of 0.025 with a small thickness of 60-100 mm. The basis of the product is polyurethane foam, the decorative part is made of ceramic tiles. The material is resistant to frost and moisture, quickly mounted and does not require additional finishing.

Thermal insulation technology with mineral wool

Insulation of a brick house is carried out in two ways:

creation of a ventilated facade;
« wet facade”, gluing plates to walls.

Mineral wool is optimally suited for the first method, which involves the creation of a crate and a multilayer cake with vapor and waterproofing.

On the surface of the walls, a crate is stuffed from a bar treated with an antiseptic composition, or a metal profile. The guides are placed in increments less than the width of the insulation by 2 cm. This will allow you to lay the material more densely.
Mineral wool is laid between the bars and covered with a waterproofing sheet.
The film is attached to the crate with a stapler.
Thin slats are stuffed over the protection against moisture, which will provide air gap between insulation and cladding.
Siding is attached to the rails.

Basalt wool slabs are strong enough to be mounted without a frame. Proper styling insulation begins with screwing a horizontal metal profile at the bottom, which will keep the material from slipping. The plates are fixed with special glue and dowels with a wide cap. Each row starts with an offset. After finishing all surfaces of the facade, a mesh is laid on the mineral wool and a layer of plaster is applied.

Insulation of the house with foam plastic according to the principle of "wet facade"

Panels of foam or extruded polystyrene foam are attached to the wall using a simple technique called "wet facade" due to the presence of processes that require drying.

A brick wall is being prepared: cleaning from dirt, eliminating defects, priming.
A metal profile is attached at the basement level, which will become a beacon when laying the first row and a drip for moisture.
Glue is applied pointwise to the insulation plates, and they are pressed against the wall.
Additional fastening is carried out with dowels - in the corners and in the center.
Work starts from the bottom of the corner, the rows are stacked with an offset for the stability of the structure.
Lay on top of the finished insulation plastic mesh for reinforcement and apply thin base layer plasters.
After the solution has dried, priming is carried out and final finishing decorative plaster.

How to apply warm plaster on the walls?

Working with insulating plaster will take time, especially in the absence of painting skills. To properly prepare the solution, the mixture is diluted according to the instructions.

Brick walls are cleaned, protruding parts are removed. The surface is primed with a penetrating compound.
A plaster mesh and beacons are attached to create a common plane.
The prepared solution is applied to the walls. The thickness of the layer depends on climatic conditions, but it should not exceed 5 cm.
On the finished surface you can create a variety of decorative textures.

The considered heaters can be used in any region, the thickness of effective thermal insulation is calculated according to local climatic characteristics.