Beautiful wet facades. DIY wet facade

The design of the facade of a building is just as important as its interior design. Modern manufacturers produce many practical materials which can be used for exterior decoration houses of any size and layout.

What's behind the title?

Not every homeowner knows exactly what constitutes a wet facade. Before proceeding to familiarize yourself with this finishing method, you should answer this question. The memorable name of the wet façade speaks for itself. In this case, the use of high-quality adhesive solutions in a liquid or semi-liquid state. Thanks to the introduction of this sophisticated technology, living quarters are reliably protected from the appearance of dew points - with a wet façade, they are led out, and do not penetrate into the ceilings.

In addition, the definition of a wet facade includes three main methods of finishing private houses., at which the fasteners of the heaters, reinforcement mesh and cladding takes place using special adhesive mixtures. Even if there is a sharp temperature difference inside and outside the building, destructive condensation will not accumulate in houses with a wet facade. This technology saw the light back in the 60s - 70s of the last century, when the question arose about efficient energy saving of buildings. It is worth noting here that it is high-quality external insulation walls in this case is optimal solution, since it makes it possible to move the dew point as far as possible from the interior spaces in the dwelling.

Technology features: pros and cons

Currently, homeowners can choose for themselves the best option insulation - external or internal. However, the lion's share of consumers turn to reliable external systems, in which the insulation is located outside. Today, many homeowners are turning to this design for the facade of private houses, as it allows you to extend the life of building and cladding materials. In this case, as in many others, you first need to properly prepare the facade. After that, you can go directly to its insulation. suitable materials... The choice of heaters today is greater than ever, so you can choose the best option for any price.

Only after this, the masters begin to apply a special adhesive to the insulating material. Following the technology, then a reinforcing mesh is applied to it, resistant to the effects of alkaline compounds. The final stages of all work are plastering the base, as well as applying a finishing layer of decorative finishing... For a wet facade to be reliable and durable, it must be a multi-layer cake. This rule cannot be neglected, otherwise the cladding will be less durable and reliable, and it will be cold inside the dwelling.

Such thought-out to the smallest detail systems boast many positive qualities for which they are chosen by many homeowners.

  • One such system combines both decorative and heat-insulating functions, which is very convenient and saves time on additional work.
  • If the walls of the house are too light or thin, then a wet facade is perfect solution... With such a system, the house will become not only much more attractive, but also much warmer and more comfortable.
  • Using a high-quality warm facade, you can significantly save on heating, since the dwelling does not need excessive heating.

  • The good thing about a wet facade is that it can be used for any kind of substrate.
  • With the help of such a system, additional sound insulation can be provided to the living space.
  • Thanks to the wet facade, the service life of the house will increase significantly, as it will be reliably protected from negative external factors.
  • With a similar design, houses look much neater.

  • Over the years, ugly salt stains do not appear on a wet facade, which is very difficult to get rid of.
  • Overlappings with such a performance do not add in themselves, therefore, they do not need to make a fortified foundation.
  • According to experts, a wet facade is cheaper than analogs.
  • In the presence of a wet facade, the interior of the dwelling will be protected not only from frost, but also from high temperatures... There will be no overheating and stuffiness in the rooms.

Today, such technologies are used by those who are used to taking care of their home and want it to remain attractive for as long as possible. appearance... However, do not think that a wet facade is a flawless solution, devoid of flaws.

It is worth paying attention to the disadvantages that are inherent in such a system.

  • Many homeowners are saddened by the fact that the installation of a wet facade can only be started at a temperature of +5 degrees Celsius. Otherwise, all materials may fail at the stage of application.
  • In no case should installation work be carried out if it is raining outside the window (even weak and fine). And during wet weather, it is better to postpone the installation of a wet facade "for later".

  • When performing such a facade, it is necessary to ensure that all construction and facing materials approached each other.
  • Direct sunlight hitting a wet facade can lead to excessive drying out of the mortar on the ceilings, which can negatively affect the durability of the cladding and its durability and wear.
  • Plastered substrates must be provided with high-quality wind protection. This is due to the fact that dust and dirt can adhere to the fresh coating during the settling process. At the same time, the type of finish will deteriorate greatly.

How serious the listed disadvantages are - everyone decides for himself. However, you will never encounter many of them if you adhere to the technology of arranging a wet facade. The quality of the purchased materials also plays an important role. Low-grade mortar and adhesive mixtures will not last very long, and their application can cause many difficulties.

Pie filling

As mentioned above, a prerequisite for a high-quality wet facade is a competent “pie” arrangement. The latter includes several important layers, without which a reliable coating will not work. A special facade wall acts as a base in such a system. It can be any - brick, wood, monolithic, foam block or sheet. The main requirement that the base must meet is a perfectly flat surface. If we neglect this condition, air will constantly circulate between the floor surface and the insulating materials, due to which the insulation in the room will not reach the desired level.

The next important layer of the "pie" is the heat-insulating layer. Experts recommend buying nets that are not afraid of contact with alkalis. After the heat is followed by a reinforced layer. As a rule, it contains mineral glue and a reinforcing mesh. Further, you will need a layer of high-quality facade paint or decorative plaster. And it is also allowed to purchase special for finishing facade slabs having little weight.

Among other things, it should be borne in mind that the entire "cake" of a wet facade must be watertight. That is why all materials must be selected in such a way that each new layer in the direction from the inside out is more vapor-tight than the previous one. Only if this requirement is met, the dwelling will “breathe”. And also it should be borne in mind that the thermal circuit of the "pie" should remain uninterrupted. There should be no cracks, gaps or cracks in it.

A multi-layer system called a wet facade is very popular today. Many homeowners choose it, however, not all of them know that there are several varieties of such a facade design. To begin with, it is worth considering in detail what subspecies wet facades are divided into according to the materials used.

  • Organic. In such systems, as a rule, cheap foam plastic acts as a heater. As for the reinforcement, it is performed using a special reinforcing mass of organic origin. The final finishing coat in this case is a silicone plaster mixture, although organic plaster can be used instead.

  • Mineral. If you decide to turn to a mineral wet facade, you should purchase high quality mineral wool for insulation. Reinforcement in such a system occurs with the help of a special reinforcing solution of mineral origin. For the final decorative cover will fit the same material as for organic variants.
  • Combined. With such a system, inexpensive foam is also used for insulation. For further finishing mineral raw materials are used.

Modern wet facades also differ in the method of fixing.

  • With a heavy version, the insulation does not need to be installed directly on the floor. Instead, slabs of thermal insulation material are slid onto dowels fitted with small hooks. These fasteners are pre-inserted into the walls. In this case, a reliable mesh made of metal is applied to the insulation. At the same time, this element is attached to special pressure plates. After that, you can proceed to plastering the bases and finishing them with a finishing layer of material. It is quite possible to cope with such work with your own hands.

  • Light facades are much more common than heavy ones. With this type of finish, the insulation is attached directly to the walls. For this, it is permissible to use a suitable adhesive together with plastic dowels.

The choice of insulation

One of the main roles in a wet facade is played by a properly selected insulation. Today, for this, as a rule, they choose either foam sheets (their thickness should be from 5 to 10 cm) or high-density mineral wool (it is better to take basalt products).

The choice of insulating material for a wet facade should be very careful and balanced.

  • Price. As for this criterion, then foam plastic undoubtedly wins over mineral wool... This material has been used for a very long time and is inexpensive, so many consumers choose it, despite its fragility.
  • Vapor permeability properties. Such qualities are inherent in the popular but expensive mineral wool. According to professionals, the house "breathes" with such a heater, therefore it is more comfortable to be in it. In addition, "breathing" dwellings are not susceptible to mold and mildew formation. Polyfoam does not differ in special vapor permeability, being inferior in this case to mineral wool.

  • The complexity of installation work. If we compare foam and mineral wool in terms of the complexity of the installation, then we can immediately say that the first of them is simpler and more malleable. This is due to the rigid foam structure.
  • Fire safety. Fire safety characteristics are also very important for insulation. So, foam plates are combustible, so they must be treated with fire retardants. Basalt wool does not burn. It can withstand temperatures up to +1000 degrees.

And also you need to pay attention to the thickness of the purchased insulation. Today, in stores of building and finishing materials, you can find many insulation materials with various dimensional parameters. The thickness of the slabs is different and can be from 25 to 200 mm. As a rule, the pitch in this case is 10 mm.

It should be borne in mind that too thin sheets of insulation may be ineffective. But you do not need to rush to extremes, because overly thick materials are also not recommended to be used, since they will only lead to unnecessary spending, and in a home with excessive insulation it will not be very comfortable. Experts strongly recommend purchasing high-quality insulation materials from well-known manufacturers for the facades of buildings. Excessive savings can lead to the purchase of a low-quality product that will not perform its basic functions and will require replacement, and this is an additional expense.

Materials and tools

An ordinary one can build a high-quality wet facade House master... However, for this you need to stock up not only with patience, but also with everyone the necessary tools and consumables... All materials and tools must be of unsurpassed quality. It will be much easier to work with such components, and the result will definitely not disappoint.

It is worth considering all the positions that may come in handy for such work.

  • You will need a starter or base profile. It is necessary to ensure that the parameter of its width corresponds to the thickness of the insulation. The quality of the profile here must correspond to the perimeter of the ceilings to be finished.

  • You should purchase reliable connection parts for the base / plinth profile. Thanks to these components, it is possible to achieve perfectly correct joining of all profiles in a single plane. In addition, these components allow you to form the correct joint (temperature gap) between the profiles.
  • Fasteners for frame profiles. It is worth making sure that the expansion dowel-nails have a length of at least 40 mm if partitions are finished from solid brick or concrete. For ceilings consisting of hollow bricks, it is recommended to choose fasteners 60 mm, for aerated concrete and gas silicate - 100 mm. It is easy to calculate the points of fasteners. If the insulation layer is 80 mm or more, then the step will be 300 mm, and if the thickness is less than 80 mm, the installation can be done in 500 mm steps. A plastic spacer is required for each attachment point. This part will come in handy for the most accurate and correct alignment profiles.

  • It is necessary to purchase a quality primer to prepare the slabs for gluing the slabs. In this case, it is recommended to buy deep penetration soil for brick, plaster or gas silicate bases. Its average consumption is 300 ml per 1 m². For concrete foundations, it is better to buy "concrete contact" soil. The average consumption of such a solution, as a rule, is 400 ml per 1 m².
  • You need to purchase a quality adhesive composition for fixing insulation boards. Choose only adhesives that are specifically designed for this task.

  • It is worth buying high-quality insulation boards with a pre-calculated thickness. Their average consumption, taking into account cutting and possible waste, takes from 1.05 per 1 m².
  • You will also need a dowel-fungus. They are needed to mechanically strengthen the insulation material. In total, the length of the dowel should correspond to the thickness of the insulation, as well as the length of the spacer.
  • You will need to stock up on materials for applying the base reinforcing layer that goes along the insulation plates. For this, a specialized plaster mixture or a reliable adhesive composition is most often purchased, which is also used for installing warm plates.
  • You need to buy a reinforcing mesh. It is recommended to purchase wear-resistant and durable products from materials that are not afraid of alkali.
  • It is imperative to stock up on water-dispersive soil, decorative plaster and paint specifically for outdoor use.

Preparatory work

When all the necessary components have already been prepared, you should proceed to the next important step- this is the preparation of the foundations for the future installation of a wet facade.

Worth disassembling this process by the example of fixing the insulation on a suitable adhesive composition.

  • Insulation plates can be attached with glue only if the base is thoroughly cleaned of all excess. For example, if the facade contains the same paintwork, then it will need to be removed right down to the base itself or the layer of plaster.

  • It is allowed to leave the old plaster only if it is still in perfect condition. To make sure of this, you need to conduct a scrupulous check of the base with a light tap. If unstable areas are found, they should be quickly cleaned up.
  • If there is mold or mildew on the walls, then they cannot be used to equip a wet facade. Such defects must be removed from the walls.
  • After removing the fungal deposits of the overlap, it is necessary to coat it with a special "healing" agent. It is allowed to start other work only when the antiseptic on the bases is completely dry.

  • It should be noted that the walls must be flat. Any irregularities, cracks, cracks and potholes must be repaired. It is worth sealing them up with soil, sanding them.
  • It is necessary to inspect the plane of the walls both horizontally and vertically. If deviations exceeding 20 mm were noticed, then it will no longer be possible to level them a little later with plaster, so problems need to be solved as soon as possible.
  • Install in advance on the walls the constituent metal parts that are used for mounting antennas, gutters, lighting fixtures and other things like that.
  • When the repair and plastered layer on the ceilings is completely dry, the surface must be primed. Primer can be applied with a roller or brush. You must try not to lose sight of a single site on the base.

Installation and plastering

If the base is prepared correctly, then you can proceed to the installation of the starting basement profiles and the further installation of the insulation material.

It is worth considering step-by-step instructions for carrying out these works.

  • The basement profile must be placed strictly horizontally. It is on it that the first insulation plate will be installed. The evenness of the location of this part should be monitored using a level.
  • You should never overlap profiles. It would be more correct to mount these parts exclusively end-to-end, maintaining an interval of 2-3 mm.
  • On external and inner corners profiles must be fastened while maintaining a gap. For this purpose, these parts are cut at an angle of 45 degrees.

  • If the density of the insulation exceeds 80 cm, then you should take care of temporary stops for mounting the starting profile. These parts should not bend. After installing the insulation, the supports are simply removed.
  • When all the supports are ready, you should proceed to preparing the solution. You should follow the instructions on the package.
  • V the right amount water gradually add a dry solution. To bring all the ingredients to liquid state, you need to use a drill with a mixer attachment.
  • Stir the composition until a single mass without lumps is formed. This usually takes 5 minutes. Next, you need to make a short pause for 6-8 minutes and mix the solution again.

It is permissible to lay the glue on the insulation material in the following ways:

  • in strips of 100 mm along the perimeter, leaving 20-30 cm from the edge;
  • small slides with a diameter of about 200 mm, while the height of the applied solution can be 10 or 20 mm.

If the wall to be insulated is fairly flat, then the glue can be applied to its entire surface using a notched trowel. It is recommended to apply the glue as follows:

  • a small amount of the mixture must be rubbed into the coating of the insulation plate, with little effort;
  • transfer the required amount of adhesive.

Further, the slab, smeared with glue, leans into place and presses firmly against it. It is necessary to distribute the glue, slightly moving the part to the sides, up and down. Any excess glue that has entered the edges should be removed as soon as possible. The next slab of insulation should be placed as close as possible to the previous one, leaving no gaps. If it does not work without them, then they can be closed with mineral wool wedges. As a rule, the installation of insulation begins from one corner, moving further in rows.

In this case, the following rules must be observed:

  • the initial row must be installed in such a way that it rests against the first profile along the side (limiter);
  • the plates must be laid with a shift of the vertical joints by at least 200 mm;
  • at the corners, use the "gear lock" technique;

  • parts of slabs close to corners, partitions or slopes should not be more than 200 mm wide;
  • as soon as possible, you need to dock the insulation layer with the ceilings and slopes.

When completing the installation of the insulation, you need to make sure that there are no gaps and gaps anywhere. All defects must be eliminated with the remnants of mineral wool. After installing the insulation, a reinforcing mesh should be installed. It is needed for the finishing layer.

Finishing

When the reinforcing layer is completely dry (it takes from 3 to 7 days), you can proceed directly to the finishing of the bases. Apply a thin layer plaster mix follows evenly, using a half-razor in an angled position. The resulting surface will be the ideal basis for processing reliable facade paint or other selected material. This procedure is the last step in warming the outside of the house.

When installing a wet facade, you should follow the advice from specialists.

  • For work on the facade, you can use only those materials that are not afraid of temperature changes, otherwise, as a result, you can get cracked plaster.
  • It is worth running your hand over the surface of the base. If there are traces of chalk on it, and something is crumbling from the wall, then the floors should be cleaned as carefully as possible.

  • The plinth profile after installation must be in one line. There should be no gaps or crevices in the connection areas.
  • Experts strongly advise against choosing fiberglass plates for home insulation. Such materials cannot boast of sufficient strength. Moreover, they are afraid of alkalis, which plaster and adhesive mixtures cannot do without.
  • The heat insulator should not be pressed against the base again. It is also not recommended to move it after a few minutes. If the insulation is not glued properly, then you should remove the glue solution, and then apply it again to the plate and press the part to the surface.

  • In the process of insulating slopes, it is necessary to ensure that the insulating material extends beyond their limits by about 10 mm. With this option, dock the main facade insulation will be much easier.
  • During installation, the dowel is considered to be correctly installed if its head is in the same plane with the heat-insulating layer.
  • The reinforced mesh cannot be laid by installing it on a heater that has not been coated with glue before, since if the reinforcing layer is rather thin, then cracks will appear at its joints.

  • If you decide to do all the work yourself, then you should stock up on branded materials and mixtures from renowned manufacturers despite their cost. It is advisable to purchase products that have good feedback consumers.
  • Facade work should be carried out in late winter or early autumn. It is advisable to familiarize yourself with the weather forecast before proceeding to the design of the facade.

Beautiful examples

A wet facade with a rough peach-colored finish looks spectacular on almost any house, from small to large and multi-storey. You can dilute the pastel paint with light side panels and a dark roof.

Light coffee facades with white window frames... In tandem with ceilings of a similar shade, a dark chocolate roof, as well as a fence made of wood and brick, will look harmonious.

A wet facade, finished with snow-white or cream paint, will look spectacular if supplemented with inserts under a gray wild stone. Such a building can be decorated with rocky paths and wrought-iron fences around the site or balcony.

The original wet façade with coffee borders can be complemented by stonework at the bottom. On such a house, a burgundy-colored roof will organically look, which will effectively dilute the pastel palettes.

Thermal insulation of facades using a heavy method is carried out without the use of glue, thermal insulation plates are fastened with hooks and dowels. They are mounted on the wall, after which the material is mounted to provide thermal insulation.

Also, the installation technology involves the installation of a metal mesh before applying facade plasters.

The use of this technology requires an independent location of the insulation from the wall. To put it a little more simply, such constructions easily absorb various processes that are associated with deformation.

Moisture and seismic activity will also not cause any inconvenience. The device of a wet facade of such an attachment is called floating.

In addition, the following point should be highlighted: the metal mesh, which is used in this technology, is masked by the manufacture and execution of thick plaster layers, the width of which varies from 20 mm to 40 mm. Ceresite is perfect as a plaster.

That is why such a wet facade is called heavy. From this it follows that there is no need to prepare the wall surface for future insulation, which is its advantage.

It is also important that the insulation of the building wet method it is advisable to use only when the main components of the wall are bricks, aerated concrete or expanded clay concrete block.

One of the significant disadvantages of this technology is the price. Such methods of insulation are many times more expensive than the same lightweight facade, which we will discuss below.

Easy installation of a wet facade

This method of warming is called one of the most affordable and easy. The low weight of the structure allows for easy installation.

The only basic requirement is a flat wall. Otherwise, it is worthwhile to conduct additional preparatory work using plaster.

The insulation is fixed to the wall using special plastic dowels, and the glue contains cement. This is a fairly tough method of attaching insulation.

The classic material used for the construction of private houses is brick. It has many advantages, but brick also has disadvantages. Among them are high thermal conductivity and a tendency to accumulate moisture. To keep the integrity brick walls and ensuring comfort inside the building, a wet facade is being finished, and how to implement this technology with your own hands will be described below.

Features of the wet facade system

The facade of the cottage can be decorated different ways... Against the background of a wide variety of technologies, the wet facade system stands out. What is this method of insulation and protection? outer walls residential buildings and industrial buildings from the impact of negative factors?

Insulation of houses for different purposes according to this technology, it means covering the outer walls with moisture and frost-resistant material, and then plastering and painting the facade. Also, instead of using plaster and paint, special decorative panels can be used or finishing clinker tiles. Let's describe the layered structure of such a cladding in the table.

Layer Comprises Appointment
Heat insulating Insulation material, adhesive mixture and dowels Provides the facade of residential buildings with high heat and sound insulation qualities
Glue-reinforcing Adhesive mixture, reinforcing mesh, soil Provides the cladding of a residential building with strength, resistance to wear and tear, durability, high external aesthetics
Decorative finishing Decorative plaster, panels, other finishing materials

This design gives the building an attractive appearance, acts as additional protection for its walls from external influences

In other words, similar system is a complex layered structure, due to which the outer walls of a residential building are provided with reliable protection.

Wet facade construction

Advantages and disadvantages

Wet finishing of external walls of residential cottages in last years highly demanded, as it has a number of advantages:

  • provides the facade of the house with high wear resistance, durability, practicality. Such a system has served without loss of its properties for more than 25 years;
  • an essential advantage of such a facade system is its affordable cost. In the case of using expanded polystyrene, sq m of facing will cost 1500-2000 rubles, and when using mineral wool, the price will double. However, other methods of facing the external walls of residential buildings, which would have similar operational parameters and practically had no drawbacks, will cost you several times more;
  • warming a house in a similar way makes it warmer, more comfortable for living. Thanks to this decoration, a healthy microclimate is formed inside the home, which has a positive effect on the well-being of each family member. In addition, the possibility of saving on the cost of electricity or gas heating is called the positive quality of the wet facade of the house. And if you still insulate the windows, then no frosts will be terrible for you;
  • the fact that the insulation is mounted on the walls from the outside saves precious square meters living space inside the building and even in those places where there is a window;
  • due to the light weight of such cladding, it can be used without additional strengthening of the foundation and walls of the house;
  • relatively easy implementation in practice without the help of professional builders;
  • using this technology, the finished house looks incredibly attractive, and its design fits well into the surrounding landscapes. Also note that after a while, if desired finishing layer the facings can be replaced or renewed.

Wet insulation options

Note that a wet facade also has some disadvantages. For example, it is not recommended to decorate the facade and carry out its insulation work if the air temperature dropped below 5 ° Celsius. In addition, it is not worth equipping the facade in this way if the air humidity level is increased or there is precipitation. Such weather phenomena prevent uniform drying of the cladding layers.

Wet facade types

Decorating private houses using wet facade technology can be done by hand. But before starting work, you need to decide what kind of it is relevant for the walls of your house:

  • heavy - the name reflects the main difference between the facade of such a plan: significant weight, which limits the possibilities of using this technology;
  • lightweight - the technology can be applied to the walls of private houses, erected from any building material.

Light
Heavy

Heavy

Due to the rather high weight of such a finish, it is important to use it for walls made of those building materials that can cope with such a high weight load: brick, cellular concrete or expanded clay concrete blocks.


Fastening the insulation with dowels

A distinctive feature of the heavy type wet facade system is the fixing of thermal insulation without the use of an adhesive. The insulation is fixed to the base by means of special dowels with hooks. They are installed on the wall, only then they are equipped with an insulation material of a slab character. Thermal insulation layer additionally, they are fixed by means of a reinforcing metal mesh, and then a plaster solution is used and the finishing is carried out.

Due to the fact that the metal mesh needs to be masked, the plaster layer turns out to be thick and heavy. Hence the name of the cladding method.

Light

This method is quite common as it is affordable and easy to implement in practice. The weight of the structure is minimal, so it is applicable to walls built from almost all standard materials: brick, concrete, foam concrete, stone, wood, and so on.

The system of a wet facade for a light type involves the use of finishing materials in several layers:

  • the first layer of plaster will be the base one and will allow the use of a reinforcing mesh to give the cladding additional strength;
  • the second layer of plaster will level and give the base perfect evenness;
  • the third layer (finishing) can be made with different finishing materials: paint, decorative plaster with bark beetle, siding, decorative panels, the like. The main thing is that the selected option has the lowest possible weight.

Note that a light type of facade finishing should be carried out using a finely dispersed and air-permeable plaster mixture. And the total thickness of the layers of the entire cladding, including on the slopes of the windows, should not exceed 10 mm.

Main nodes

Today, wet facade finishing is used most actively, which is due to a large number advantage inherent this kind finishes. By itself, this technology is a multi-layer structure, each of the layers of which is aimed at performing its function:

  • the first is the wall of the building, which, before starting work, necessarily undergoes a certain preparation, which consists in leveling and cleaning;
  • second - thermal insulation material, as which can be used foam or mineral wool. The first option is cheaper, but the second has better characteristics;
  • the third is a reinforcing lining designed to protect the slabs during the further finishing process;
  • fourth - decorative layer for which can be used decorative plaster or other Decoration Materials.

The main units of the wet facade

Insulation types

An important stage in the implementation of wet facade technology is the choice insulation material... What material is best used for this purpose? In most cases, craftsmen use mineral wool in the form of slabs. It is a rather rigid material, the density of which exceeds 150 kg / m³. Also, foam is often used to decorate facades in this way. The main thing is to choose the right brand (at least 35).

When comparing these two heaters, experts note that mineral wool is the best option, because it is resistant to fire and has high air permeability, which is extremely important in the case of walls of a stone house. When insulating with mineral wool, moisture from the masonry freely comes out through the pores of the material, which allows you to recreate the optimal microclimate inside the dwelling and significantly improve the thermal insulation parameters of the facade. If the budget for repairs is extremely limited, then you should prefer the cheaper foam.

Remember, it is worth choosing exclusively products from trusted manufacturers with famous name, the quality of products of which is documented. Then the facade will definitely be durable and resistant to wear and tear.


Mineral wool
Styrofoam

When arranging a wet facade, attention should be paid to the selection of finishing materials. To facilitate the task, we suggest that you carefully familiarize yourself with the possible facade systems that are ideal for such a finish:

  • organic - with this method of finishing, you will need expanded polystyrene plates, organic reinforcing mass, organic or silicone plaster;
  • mineral - in this case, mineral slabs are suitable for insulation, and mineral mixtures for reinforcement. As for the decorative layer, you should choose silicate or mineral plaster;
  • combined - in such a facade system, both polystyrene foam and mineral materials are used. The first is suitable as insulation, while other materials can be used for reinforcement and subsequent plastering.

We should also dwell on the choice of suitable adhesives. The best option for a wet facade, Ceresit CM-11 glue will be used. With regard to plaster, the most suitable will be such types as a fur coat or bark beetle.


Combined
Mineral
Organic

Possible errors during work

When installing a wet facade, a number of mistakes are often made that negatively affect the quality of the coating:

  • ignoring the temperature conditions of the work - this can cause destruction, delamination and even rotting of the layers of the system;
  • improper preparation of the main layer - the duration of service will be significantly reduced due to destruction inside;
  • emergence air layers between the seams and layers, which can occur in the area of ​​windows - will lead to cracks on the surface of the facade and the design of the building will be damaged;
  • improper installation of the reinforcing mesh - will cause chips and cracks on the outer layer.

Service life and repair

Wet-finished façades can last up to 30 years. But this period may well vary up or down, depending on humidity, climatic conditions and possible temperature changes.

During operation, a wet facade may be exposed to repair work if necessary. But for this, it is necessary to save the documents for all building materials, so that, if it is necessary to paint a certain area, purchase the paint used earlier. Otherwise, you may not guess with a shade, and then a prominent spot will appear on your facade.

If after a while you notice that a piece of plaster began to peel off in a certain area, which happens especially often near windows, then in this case it is worth spending following works: Sand down this area to a firm layer, prime and apply a new layer of plaster.

Video

To better understand the principle of a wet facade, we advise you to watch the video.

When the term “wet facade” is mentioned, the image of a facade abundantly soaked in water immediately appears in the imagination. But in fact, this method of finishing, of course, has nothing to do with such an association.

This phrase is just one of the attributes of figurative folk speech and cannot be found in textbooks. The question "what is a wet facade?" will be disclosed in detail in the material below.

What it is?

It is the latest building technique used as a decoration and thermal insulation method for the exterior walls of a house.

This name stuck to her for a reason the use of liquid or semi-liquid adhesive solutions when installing materials that are part of the finishing coating.

Technology provides protection for living quarters from the occurrence of the dew point, which, as a result of the construction of a wet facade, is carried out.

Even with significant abrupt changes and contrast of external and internal temperatures the occurrence of condensation in the room will be completely excluded.

Advantages and disadvantages

The main advantage of using this technology is combination of decoration and thermal insulation functions.

To this you can also add more a number of positive points:

Now for the disadvantages:

  • the main disadvantage is that insulation work cannot be performed at an air temperature below 5 ° C, in case of extreme need, with insulation in cold period should apply heat guns and scaffolding covered with polyethylene;
  • not worth spending assembly work at high humidity air - "wet facade" does not tolerate such conditions;
  • the plastered surface needs to be protected from the wind, since dust and dirt settling on a fresh finish can significantly damage the appearance of the coating.

When choosing a material you can be guided by four main criteria:

  1. Price. In this regard, polystyrene wins, as it is a cheaper material.
  2. Water vapor permeability. This property is inherent in mineral wool, which allows the walls of the house to "breathe". Styrofoam does not have this quality.
  3. The complexity of the work. Foam is easiest to work with due to the higher rigidity of the material.
  4. Fire hazard. Foam plates are flammable, therefore they need to be treated with fire retardants. Basalt wool does not burn and is able to withstand temperatures up to 1000 degrees.

Do-it-yourself installation of a wet facade "Ceresit" for insulation

Ceresit system("Ceresit") is built on the basis of materials from the well-known manufacturer of the same name, which include a primer, putty and plaster.

This approach allows you to achieve high level of thermal conductivity and waterproofing. The installation of the system consists of several stages, which are worth considering in detail.

Wall preparation

When carrying out this procedure all flaws on the wall are eliminated... Cracks need to be repaired with a solution, after which the surface is cleaned of contamination.

Further check the surface for strength... This can be done with pieces of styrofoam that are glued to the wall in different places... If the glued pieces are difficult to come off after the glue has completely dried, then the surface is ready for application. further work and it can be treated with a primer.

Plinth profile installation

This procedure is necessary so that the thermal insulation material does not slip during installation. The profile is fixed at the border of the facade and the base and must be installed in a strictly horizontal position.

Fixed to the wall with dowels... After that, you can start laying the insulation.

Installation of mineral wool

Mineral wool slabs are mounted on the wall with glue. Material placement starts from the corner at home. One side of the board is lubricated around the perimeter with a layer of adhesive mixture about 10 cm wide. The glue is also applied to the middle of the material, but pointwise.

Plates are stacked end-to-end (see photo), excess adhesive is removed... The seams between the slabs of each row must not match.

At the end of the installation of the insulation you need to give the glue three days to dry, after which you should additionally secure the material with dowels "fungi".

Reinforcing mesh laying

Reinforcing mesh serves as the basis for the next layer of the facade and provides a high-quality hitch.

To perform this procedure correctly you should adhere to the following rules:

  • the layer must be at least 0.5 cm thick;
  • the composition of the reinforcing layer should include two adhesive layers, between which the mesh is laid;
  • lay the mesh and apply the second layer of glue before the first layer dries;
  • the hardened surface is covered with two layers of soil.

Finishing

After complete drying of the reinforcing layer (3-7 days) decorative coating is applied.

The thin-layer putty is applied evenly with a half-tape, which is held at an angle.

The applied mixture is additionally smoothed. Dried plaster after half an hour processed with a plastic float, giving the surface the desired texture.

This procedure is the final step in the construction of a wet façade.

Wet facade device: video instruction.

February 26, 2018
Specialization: facade decoration, interior decoration, construction of summer cottages, garages. The experience of an amateur gardener and gardener. He also has experience in repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing guitar and much more, for which there is not enough time :)

Wall decoration using the "wet facade" technology on the one hand is very simple, but on the other - it contains a lot important subtleties... Therefore, I suggest that you familiarize yourself with all the nuances of its device. This information will help you insulate the building with high quality.

What is a wet facade

A wet facade is called the decoration of the outer walls on top of the insulation. The name itself implies the use of liquid finishing materials, which include wet plaster. The latter is a dry mixture that requires mixing with water before use.

The wet facade cake consists of several layers:

  • Insulation. It is also glued to the walls with a wet method, i.e. with help liquid glue... True, the plates are additionally fixed with special disc dowels;
  • Reinforcement layer. It is a layer of glue several millimeters thick, which is reinforced with fiberglass mesh. The glue functions as a rough plaster;

  • Decorative layer... It is a decorative plaster that provides the surface of the walls with a specific texture and texture. Paint is applied over the plaster layer, unless, of course, the plaster itself is tinted.

Thermal insulation using this technology does not require large financial costs, since wet finishing materials are cheaper than panels or, for example, facing bricks. At the same time, the installation is simple and fast enough.

Choosing thermal insulation

For the installation of a wet facade, a tight and durable slab insulation, since it has to perform a load-bearing function - to withstand the wind load, as well as the load from the plaster layer. In addition, the insulation must withstand shock loads, since it is protected only by a thin layer of glue and a reinforcing mesh.

Therefore, only the following thermal insulation materials can be used:

  • Styrofoam (expanded polystyrene). It can be said to be a classic material for a wet facade, as it is inexpensive and effective. True, only slabs with a density of at least 25 kg / m3 are suitable for these purposes;

  • Mineral wool. Another popular material that is fire resistant, environmentally friendly and vapor permeable. Mineral wool must have a density of at least 125 kg / m3

You can also use extruded polystyrene foam. It is stronger and more durable than foam, but has poor adhesion. Long time it was believed that walls should not be insulated with this material for wet finishing.

However, to solve the problem of poor adhesion was invented by mechanical processing surface with sandpaper or float. Some manufacturers produce boards with an initially rough surface.

Installation technology

Materials (edit)

In addition to insulation, the following materials should be prepared:

  • Adhesive for thermal insulation boards;
  • Disc dowels - the length should be 4-5 cm more than the thickness of the insulation;
  • Primer;
  • Reinforcing fiberglass mesh;
  • Plaster corners;
  • Starting bar;
  • Decorative plaster;
  • Facade paint.

The thickness of the insulating layer must be at least 5-7 centimeters. To achieve the best effect, it is advisable to glue boards with a thickness of 10 cm.

Preparing the walls

A wet façade requires high-quality surface preparation. This operation is performed like this:

Illustrations Actions
Dismantling of attachments. Dismantle all elements on the facade surface that may interfere with the installation of the insulation - window sills, cornices, antennas, etc.

Removing plaster. If the walls are covered with plaster that has begun to flake off and fall off, it must be removed.

Padding:
  • Shake it up facade primer and pour into a flat container;
  • Apply the primer to the wall surface in a thin layer with a brush, roller or spray;
  • Wait for the surface to dry and repeat the procedure.

Insulation installation

Now you can start installing the insulation. Step-by-step instruction to complete this operation looks like this:

Illustrations Actions
Installation of the starting plate. Along the perimeter of the building, it is necessary to fix the basement profile, from which the installation of the insulation begins. Use dowels to fix the profile.

In the process of fastening the profile, be sure to make sure that it does not deviate from the horizontal.


Glue preparation:
  • Pour room temperature water into the bucket;
  • Gradually pour the adhesive into a bucket and mix with a mixer;
  • Bring the glue to a doughy consistency.
Bonding boards of the first row:
  • Apply glue to the board. If the quality of the walls allows, cover the entire surface of the insulation with a thin layer of glue using a trowel. If the walls are uneven, apply the glue in lumps;
  • Insert the slab into the starter bar, press it against the wall and align with the vertical using a level;
  • Apply glue to the second board, position it against the first and glue. Thus, glue over the entire first row.
Installation of subsequent rows. Start with half of the slab for the second row to offset the vertical joints. Also, tie the slabs in the corner. If the slab of the first row was flush with the wall, then the slab of the second row should protrude at a distance equal to the thickness of the insulation.

Thus, cover all walls with insulation.


Pasting of openings. Cover the openings with insulation 1-2 cm thick.

Installation of dowels:
  • Use a puncher and drill a hole through the insulation to the depth of the dowel plus 5-10 mm;
  • Insert the poppet sleeve into the hole;
  • Drive the provided nail into the sleeve. Finish it so that the head of the sleeve goes into the foam by a few millimeters. Install dowels at the corners of each plate, as well as one dowel in the center. Plates located on the slopes do not need to be fastened with dowels.

    The installation of the dowels can only be done after the glue has completely hardened.

Preparation for reinforcement

Before proceeding with the finishing, you must complete the following steps:

Illustrations Actions

Surface leveling:
  • Apply a level and rule to the surface of the walls;
  • Rub the irregularities with a special float.
Insulation of cracks. Blow out the cracks with glue foam or fill in with scraps of insulation.
Bonding corners. Glue the perforated aluminum corners around the perimeter of the openings and on all outside corners. For gluing the corners, it is used glue mixture, to which the insulation plates are glued.

If it is possible to reinforce with foam without priming, then before reinforcing extruded polystyrene foam, the surface must be coated with an adhesive primer.

Reinforcement

Rough finishing of the walls pasted over with insulation is carried out as follows:

Illustrations Actions

Reinforcement of openings:
  • Cut the reinforcement mesh according to the dimensions of the slopes, taking into account the curvature at the corners (about 10 cm);
  • Cover the slope surface with glue using a trowel or trowel;
  • Attach mesh;
  • Iron the mesh with a spatula so that it is completely covered with glue;
  • Thus, reinforce all slopes;
  • After the surface has hardened, apply another layer of glue about 2-3 mm thick.

    To make the glue fit better on the mineral wool and not roll, slightly moisten the surface with a sprayer.


Wall reinforcement:
  • Reinforce the walls in the same way as the slopes - first apply glue, then glue the mesh. Be sure to provide overlap and curl at the corners;
  • After the surface has hardened, apply another layer of glue.

Decorative plastering

Now you can proceed to the final stage - decorative plaster:

Illustrations Actions

Padding. Cover the facade with soil as described above, i.e. in two passes.

Decorative plaster application:
  • Mix the mixture with water according to the instructions on the package;
  • Apply the coating in a thin layer using a trowel;
  • When the decorative plaster begins to harden, trowel it down with a trowel.

Painting. If the plaster is not tinted, paint it as follows:
  • Prepare the paint - stir and pour into a flat container;
  • Use a facade roller and apply a thin layer of paint;
  • Wait for the coating to dry and apply a second coat of paint.

This completes the installation of the wet facade.

Output

Now you are familiar with the technology of installing a wet facade and you can insulate your home on your own. And if you have any difficulties, write comments, and I will be happy to help with advice.

February 26, 2018

If you want to express gratitude, add clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!