Do-it-yourself semicircle insulation of the balcony from the inside. Correct insulation of the balcony and loggia from the inside

Despite their small size, the complex modernization of these parts of the residential buildings is challenging. To find out how to do it yourself, step-by-step photos must be supplemented with detailed descriptions of working operations. Information about modern materials will come in handy,. It is necessary to find out how the new premises will be equipped. Finding the right answers to these and other practical questions will be easier after reading this article.

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Do-it-yourself balcony insulation: step-by-step instructions for preparatory work

Open balconies in domestic climatic conditions can be fully operated no more than several months a year. They are blown by cold winds, covered with rain and covered with snow. After the implementation of the project, the necessary protection will be created. Even when choosing the most economical option, the insulating characteristics of the property will improve, and the costs for it will decrease. After a deep modernization, you can actually increase the living space at a relatively low cost.

Preventing erroneous actions

Some important details should be noted at the beginning to rule out incorrect decisions:

Excessive "frugality" can subsequently be transformed into additional costs. If you install cheap frames without, use insufficient quality and finishing materials, the desired result will not be obtained. Subsequent alterations are additional costs.
Wrong choice of technology also comes with troubles. It is necessary to carefully study the nuances of the techniques in order to make sure that they are realistic to reproduce on their own. Specialists can be invited to perform the most complex workflows.
Standard cannot be installed on the balcony. Some municipal authorities prohibit discoloration of external surfaces, installation of frames and other visible changes from the outside.

Important! Make sure that the project does not violate the requirements of applicable codes and regulations. If such a structure is not officially approved, it will have to be removed at your own expense with the payment of a fine.

Formulation of the problem

After a detailed study of the thematic materials, final conclusions will be drawn. But already at the first stage, it is necessary to formulate general requirements, note the following important details:

Even small modifications increase the weight of the structure. It is necessary to take into account the increase in loads on the load-bearing frame, schedule a specialized check. In some situations, a separate engineering calculation will be required.
If the door block remains, it is not necessary to place increased demands on the insulation performance of the balcony. Otherwise, they should be no worse than in.
A home computer network is installed in the new premises. It is necessary to decide on the equipment of the balcony.
It is advisable here to make the floor of the same level as the room, without thresholds and steps.

This figure shows that, if desired, you can increase the available area. But we must remember that such structures significantly increase the load on the building. They must be approved in accordance with the procedure established by law, since significant changes in the initial design are assumed.

Important! A simple freehand drawing is better than no documentation at all. On its basis, it is easier to prepare a list of components, materials, tools and other necessary products.

How to insulate the floor, walls and ceiling on the balcony: the choice of materials

If appropriate, it is better to install the insulation outside the walls. This will help move the dew point towards the street. The likelihood of moisture penetration into the main building structures will decrease. This will prevent their destruction, the appearance of mold. The existing volume of the balcony will be used rationally.

It is easier to carry out assembly operations inside on your own. Therefore, only the corresponding techniques will be considered below. To find out how to insulate a balcony with your own hands with detailed step-by-step photos, instructions, you need to correctly decide on.

Image	Name	Advantages	disadvantages
	Expanded clay	Low cost; good filling with granules of complex volumes; maintaining integrity over a long service life; incombustibility.	High moisture permeability, which is accompanied by a loss of insulating properties.
	Mineral wool	The durability of products of a modern level; high temperature resistance; high quality butt joints.	Low strength; deterioration of the structure and an increase in thermal conductivity when water enters. These materials must be additionally protected from mechanical damage and increased.
	Styrofoam	Reasonable prices; ease of processing; smooth outer surface; light weight.	Low strength, flammability. To improve resistance to open flame, special additives are used, but the corresponding materials are more expensive.
	Expanded polystyrene boards	High strength of products with a sufficiently high density; ease of installation; moisture resistance; durability.	Relatively expensive factory-made materials from well-known manufacturers. Difficulty filling internal volumes without the formation of empty spaces.
	Polystyrene formed at a construction site from several liquid components	It has all the advantages of slabs, but additionally it fills all cavities of any shape.	The total cost is higher because special equipment has to be used.
	Foamed polyethylene with a layer of metal foil (penofol)	Small thickness; long-term preservation of good consumer characteristics; moisture resistance.	High price.

For your information! The insulation system will be effective if you install insulating materials on the outer wall, floor, ceiling.

How to insulate a balcony with your own hands: a step-by-step photo, installation of windows

Drawing	Description of actions
	Taking into account the characteristics of a particular balcony, they create a reliable support for the frames. If necessary (as in the picture from the example), install additional metal supports. The manufacture of such products is entrusted to a specialized enterprise.
	Easier to work with assembled frames. They are installed sequentially. After precise alignment using the building level, the gaps are filled with construction foam.
	If it is necessary to install double-glazed windows directly on the object, the glazing beads with seals are inserted carefully. In order not to damage the brittle plastic, use a wooden hammer, damping gaskets.
	Further, they install Wooden frames deteriorate by weather and natural influences Hinged and sliding systems, curved and rectangular frames are created from polymers. If necessary, apply painting, lamination. Article

Loggia is a part of the apartment that requires high-quality insulation. If you leave it in its original state, then in winter the cold will penetrate into the rest of the premises, and this is an extra cash cost for heating. The owners, who do not know how and how to insulate the balcony on their own, invite workers, whose services cost a lot of money. And it's good if the hired foremen turn out to be professionals, because contractors with no qualifications often come to the call.

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If we take the professionals as an example, they first visually assess the condition of the balcony and take into account the year in which the apartment building was built. Then they pay attention to the frame (whether it is metal or wooden) and assess the decay of the cladding. Last but not least, experienced workers compare neighboring loggias and can offer the owner to make a design in the same style as them.

Because of the old-style balconies, the whole work becomes more complicated, especially if this building is not closed, but open. In this case, the craftsmen are engaged in additional strengthening of the structure and replacing rotten parts: they cut off the rusted metal elements of the frame and reconstruct the concrete platform. The upper and lower parts of the balcony must be reinforced without fail.

how to insulate a balcony with your own hands

It is after the measures to restore the structure that the specialists are engaged in the facing and internal thermal insulation of the premises. Often, the owners prefer to equip their balconies with foam blocks and double-glazed windows. The stones are laid out at half the total height of the loggia, and the open space is closed with windows. As a result, not only an attractive appearance of the building is created, but also its strength is significantly increased. By the way, a double-glazed window will significantly insulate the room.

If the owner of the apartment changes the windows to plastic, then it is advisable for him to purchase products with double glass, since single ones retain heat by only 30% in the cold season.

Without preparing the balcony, you cannot approach the subsequent drastic actions. Before purchasing materials for insulating a loggia, inside the premises, specialists carry out the following work:

The interior arrangement of the loggia concerns not only the ceiling and walls. It is equally important to insulate the floor, for example, with penofol.

For internal insulation of almost all structures, expanded polystyrene is very widely used. Its low cost does not affect quality. It is sold in the form of plates with a thickness of 5 cm or more. If the apartment is located in the north, then it is better to use sheets of 15 cm in thickness. For the installation of foam, they make a crate with the same cells. Expanded polystyrene is convenient in that it can be easily cut with an ordinary knife.

The positive aspects of this insulation are that it is odorless, does not emit harmful substances, is environmentally friendly and does not affect human health. Sheets, as a rule, are fixed on special "umbrellas" or construction glue. As an economy, it is better to insulate the balcony inside with it.

Mineral wool is also quite popular. Such insulation is slightly more expensive than polystyrene, but this is due to the additional sound insulation that the material possesses. Therefore, using mineral wool, you can not only insulate the structure with high quality, but also eliminate street noise. It is sold in the form of yellow rolls.

Warming the loggia Secrets of craftsmanship from Alexey Zemskov

The fire safety of this insulation is at a high level, and the absence of a specific smell makes the mineral wool one of the most demanded. The material begins to melt at a temperature of 1000 degrees. For such rolls, it is also necessary to tinker with a crate. Another plus is easy cutting. The disadvantage is due to the composition, which includes powdered glass, which bites into the skin during work and causes itching and redness.

Penoplex is a new insulation that has appeared on the building materials market relatively recently and has already become popular. It has a low weight, due to which it is convenient to work with it. Penoplex is produced in the form of rectangular sheets, which can be cut even with a clerical knife. By the method of fastening, it is similar to polystyrene, which is glued or fixed with fasteners. The surface of the material is rough, so it does not slip in your hands.

Granular expanded clay is often laid on the floor. Such insulation for the balcony inside has a porous structure and consists of fired clay, so it is environmentally friendly. Builders use it for floor and ceiling insulation.

The process of work is simple, it is enough to create a layer of expanded clay and spill it with liquid cement so that the granules are held together. But it must be borne in mind that such material will take 15-20 cm of height from floor to ceiling. In addition, a thin-layer screed will have to be poured over the expanded clay, because the embossed surface will not be suitable for laying, for example, the same parquet or laminate.

Another option for insulation is penofol... It is made of polyethylene foam. The material is especially suitable for water-heated floors, as it has a foil covering with a heat-reflecting effect. This insulation has 4 advantages: it does not let the wind through, retains heat, prevents water penetration and has vapor barrier properties. Penofol is flexible and easy to cut, and environmentally friendly substances do not harm human health. Insulation is produced in the form of rolls, therefore, it is convenient to work with it. The installation process takes no more than 1 hour.

Insulation of balconies and loggias: eight mistakes of decorators

As mentioned earlier, Styrofoam is cheap, but nevertheless practical and is used by many builders. What is the best way to insulate the balcony from the inside with expanded polystyrene:

The thickness of the wall from the edge of the interior finish to the outside, taking into account the foam block, should be 30 cm. This is enough to retain heat and prevent the penetration of cold into the room.

Pouring concrete, expanded clay layer and similar methods cost a lot of money. You can make a similar insulation, but at the same time save money. An option for cheap wood and foam finishes can be as follows:

How to insulate the balcony? The choice of insulation.

Specialists always start finishing with walls and ceilings, and at the end they work on the floor. If you do the opposite, the base will be damaged and the front surface will be scratched.

It is very difficult to calculate the total amount because many factors influence this. First, you must first decide whether the loggia will be a living room. If so, you will have to spend money on double-glazed windows. Secondly, prices for heaters change almost every day. Thirdly, you need to decide what kind of furniture the room will be furnished with. Therefore, you should not allocate a strictly fixed amount for such an event; it is better to prepare additional finances, just in case, in case unforeseen expenses arise.

It is also recommended to prepare an estimate in advance and find a source of sale of the material cheaper, for example, not through intermediaries, but directly buy building materials at the base. If you turn to specialists for help, they will take into account the following points:

You may also have to spend money on furniture and other home furnishings.

Arrangement of a loggia with the help of specialists will cost a large amount, which will significantly hit the wallet. But if you insulate the balcony inside with your own hands, then the total expense will be about 10 thousand rubles.

How does a balcony differ from a loggia

First of all, let's clearly separate these concepts. Both are glazed, so most people call the resulting space a balcony, although this is incorrect. And some mistakenly believe that if you install windows on the balcony, it automatically turns into a loggia.

The key difference between the two structures is that the balcony has no walls and protrudes beyond the facade, while the loggia has side walls and, on the contrary, is recessed into the building. In other words, the outside air acts on the balcony from three sides, and on the loggia - only from one or two, if the apartment is corner.

What result to expect

You can insulate both, but the final effect will be very different. A well-insulated loggia is no different from a room. With a heat source, it becomes a full-fledged living space for year-round use.

Due to the lack of solid walls, the thermal resistance of the insulated balcony is much worse - it is comfortable to stay there until late autumn. A sufficient level could be achieved with an additional layer of thermal insulation, but this is irrational due to the small area of the room. After warming, there will be almost no free space.

What's with the glazing

Since 25% of heat loss falls on, it makes sense to take on the insulation of a loggia or balcony only if there are energy-saving windows. If wooden frames with one glass are installed, you will first have to replace them with modern ones.

Double-glazed windows with a higher thermal resistance weigh a lot and can only be installed on loggias. Balcony ceilings have a weak bearing capacity, and most likely it will not work to mount such windows there.

2. Consider the design

Before starting work, you need to decide on the type of insulation, choose the option for finishing the walls and finishing flooring, and also decide how the room will be heated. All this will determine the design and the algorithm for its installation.

Since the insulation of a balcony or loggia is carried out from the inside, it is important to use a vapor-proof material in order to avoid the formation of condensation and the appearance.

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Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) is best suited for this. When installed with sealing joints, it allows you to make a kind of thermos out of the room, which will retain heat well by cutting off the external cold. At the same time, with EPS, you can achieve sufficient thermal insulation, taking a minimum of precious space from the room.

Some consider styrofoam toxic. This is not entirely true. The material is indeed flammable and, when heated above 60 ° C, emits harmful substances, but this does not make it dangerous, since the EPS is always covered with a finish.

Wall decoration

After good insulation on the loggia or balcony, you can apply any type of finish. Depending on the chosen coating, the technology of work on thermal insulation is slightly different.

Wooden lining, PVC or MDF ‑ panels - for mounting to the wall, you will need to first make a crate.
Decorative plaster or putty followed by painting - this type of finish can be applied directly to the insulation.
- the easiest way is to glue on drywall, fixed on a wooden crate.

Flooring

The floor of the insulated loggia is no different from the floor of the room, so all existing topcoats can be used there. However, for each type, you will need one or another version of the subfloor.

Laminate, linoleum, carpet are laid on plywood sheets, chipboard (chipboard), DSP (cement chipboard) or OSB (oriented strand board) fixed on top of wooden logs.
and porcelain stoneware are laid on a concrete screed.

The floor slabs of the balconies have a low bearing capacity, therefore, only floors on wooden logs are allowed on them. In addition to this, on more durable loggia foundations, you can also pour a screed for laying tiles.

In both cases, if desired, you can equip an electric floor heating system. The only difference is that for the construction on the logs, a film infrared floor is used, and for the screeds - a heating cable or heating mats.

Heating

It is important to understand that insulating a balcony or loggia will only prevent the walls from freezing and slightly increase the temperature compared to the street temperature. To maintain a comfortable microclimate in winter, you cannot do without a heating source.

There are three main ways to heat a room:

Electric is the most costly and difficult to install option, but at the same time the most efficient and convenient.
Convector - a heater installed against an outer wall can be turned on only on the coldest days or only when there are people in the room.
Central heating radiator - by law it is forbidden to transfer the device to a loggia or balcony, but if the partition is removed or the door is constantly open, the battery will cope with heating even from the room.

Take things out, remove shelves, hangers, and other items. Remove old paint and plaster from the walls. If there are foci of lesion with a fungus, remove it and carefully treat the places with a special antiseptic, and then dry all surfaces well.

To prevent blowing out, seal all gaps around the perimeter of the fence slab, as well as at the points of contact with the side walls, floor and ceiling. Remove the old plaster from the joints and fill them with polyurethane foam.

The bottom line is to cut off any cold air flows from the street and make the room as tight as possible.

If you plan to use the insulated space as a study or recreation area, you must pre-mount the electrical wiring. To do this, install in the right places, lighting and switches.

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It is better to run the cables along the inner wall adjacent to the room. It is not insulated, so all wiring can be easily hidden inside the frame or plaster layer. The sockets and can be plugged in from the nearest outlet in the room. But to supply the warm floor, it is advisable to run a separate cable from the distribution board.

Expanded polystyrene is sold in the form of slabs with a size of 60 × 120 cm and a thickness of 20 to 150 mm. The sheets have an L-shaped lock along the contour, which simplifies installation and prevents blowing through the joints.

There are different ways to fix the EPSP to the walls. The most common is glue-foam in cylinders, which is applied around the perimeter of the sheet and in the middle. Another option is fixing in the corners and in the center on dowels-umbrellas with a plastic or metal core. Also, expanded polystyrene is attached over the entire area of the sheet to adhesive mixtures for insulation.

To form a single contour of thermal insulation, all joints must be sealed. It is important to leave gaps of 10-15 mm near the walls in the corners, under the ceiling and near the floor, so that later they can be filled with polyurethane foam. It is recommended to coat the joints in the locks between the plates with glue-foam or glue with foil.

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The required thickness of insulation can be achieved either with one sheet or with a combination of two. In this case, the second option is even preferable, since the fragments of expanded polystyrene are tightly adjacent to each other and form a single layer, and due to the displacement of the joints between the plates, maximum protection against blowing can be achieved.

After the end of the work, an unbreakable structure should be obtained, where each sheet of EPSP fits snugly to the neighboring one, and all joints between them in the corners, under the ceiling and at the floor are sealed with polyurethane foam.

The fence slab borders the street and is exposed to the cold air the most, so the maximum insulation thickness here is 80 mm. It is better to use not one 80 mm sheet, but a “pie” of plates: 50 + 30 mm.

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If the dimensions allow, the wooden lathing is mounted on top of the second layer of EPS, fixing the bars with anchors or dowels directly through the insulation. When the width of the window sill is limited, the crate is fastened with 50 mm expanded polystyrene foam, and the second layer of insulation is placed between the frame bars.

If selected as a finish, you can do without the construction of a frame. In this case, the mixture is applied directly to the surface of the EPS. For better adhesion, the sheets must be trowelled or scratched with a regular hacksaw.

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For walls, an EPS layer of 50 mm is sufficient. The work is done in the same way. If necessary, the sheets are cut to the desired size with a sharp knife. To join the pieces to each other, an L-shaped lock is formed at their ends with the same knife.

It is better to insulate it in two layers (30 + 20 mm), and fix the frame over the EPS. But if the window is installed without accessories and the space is limited by the width of the frame, the second layer of expanded polystyrene can also be laid between the frame bars.

If you are going to plaster the walls in the future, then the crate is not needed. It is enough to fix the sheets and make their surface rough with a grater or hacksaw.

The ceiling borders the apartment, not the street. Therefore, the same EPS layer is sufficient here as on the walls - 50 mm. Laying is done according to a familiar principle. Mounting of your choice: glue-foam, dowel-umbrella, glue mixture. Expanded polystyrene is a very light material and reliably adheres to the ceiling only with glue.

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When installing, pay attention to the height of the windows. If the frame is installed under the ceiling itself without additional profiles, then due to a thick layer of insulation, the window sashes may not open. Take into account the thickness of the battens and finishing so that after installation there is a gap of at least 5–7 mm to the sash.

For thermal insulation of the floor, an EPSP with a thickness of at least 50 mm is required, and better - 80 mm in two layers. Extruded polystyrene foam has a high density and can withstand a load of up to 30 tons per square meter, therefore it can serve as the base of the floor.

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After installation on EPSP, it is enough to lay plywood, chipboard, DSP or OSB - and on top you can lay a finishing floor covering like laminate or. When installing a film underfloor heating, you first need to lay penofol or another heat-reflecting substrate.

Under the laying of tiles or porcelain stoneware, a reinforced cement screed is poured directly onto the EPSP, into which, if desired, a cable heated floor or thermomats can be installed. If the heating elements have a small thickness, they can be easily laid in the adhesive layer when laying the tiles.

The floor on the balcony or loggia is always lower than in the room, so many people prefer to bring them one level and remove the step. This is done using a log from a wooden bar 50 × 50 mm or 40 × 40 mm.

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First, the transverse joists are laid with a pitch of 40–60 cm and fixed to the slab with anchors. Then the gaps between them are filled with insulation and foamed, and longitudinal logs with a similar pitch are attached on top and leveled. Next, the second layer of insulation is laid with foam filling and plywood or other sheet material.

10. Complete the finishing

At the very end, the ceiling and the floor are trimmed. If plaster is selected, then a reinforcing mesh is glued to the sanded EPSP surface, and then two layers of plaster and paint are applied.

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When cladding with clapboard, plastic or MDF panels, moldings are attached to a wooden frame on the walls and ceiling.

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For wallpapering, the easiest way is to sheathe the walls with moisture-resistant plasterboard. Use the crate as a frame, seal the joints between the sheets with putty and, after priming the surfaces, glue the wallpaper.

The final stage of finishing is the installation of the finishing floor. On the previously prepared base, linoleum is laid or spreads. If a warm floor is planned, then it is first installed. Next, the skirting boards are mounted.

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The exception is tiles. Due to wet processes during installation, it is better to install it at the stage of floor insulation and before starting work on the walls.

By insulating the balcony, we create a buffer zone on the path of cold air to the living quarters, add a few square meters to create a pantry, or even a small room - but this is if you connect a heater.

In our step-by-step instructions, we will tell you how to properly insulate a balcony with your own hands and what materials are used for this.

Balcony insulation begins with checking the supporting structures. To do this, it is advisable to look at the balcony slab from the balcony of the neighbors below: if the beginning destruction is visible with the naked eye, then you can strengthen the concrete and reinforcement layer as shown in the figure. If you doubt the strength of the slab and the ability to carry an increased load of glazing, insulation, floors, it is better to seek expertise. Although, as practice shows, balconies can easily withstand increased load and collapse - this, fortunately, is an extremely rare exception to the rule.

a - concrete is knocked down in damaged places. b - the surface is cleaned and repair compounds are applied: 1 - contact layer; 2 - anti-corrosion protection; 3 - repair mortar; 4 - leveling putty

Before starting work, you need to remove the old finish and frames (if any), clean all surfaces from decaying elements, if necessary, make a small concrete screed or fill up the slabs with concrete mortar.

Insulation works can be divided into:

outer skin;
glazing;
internal insulation;
finishing.

Parapet siding outside

The easiest way to make the outer balcony cladding is vinyl siding.

Outside the parapet, a vertical crate is assembled in such a way that it forms a single flat area (check with a stretched thread). Bars or metal profile of the battens are fixed at a distance of about 40 cm from each other. Further, along the lower and upper perimeter, guides for siding (closing profile) are mounted, and the corners are made out with a special vinyl profile - "outer corner".

The siding starter bar is attached with the long side to the lower rail using self-tapping screws. Better to start from the side wall - and the panel is shorter and less visible from the street - you can practice. Soft mineral wool slabs can be placed between the siding and the balcony grating. At the top of the parapet, you need to mount a drainage system.

A very short video about the main stages of cladding:

Glazing is an obligatory stage of balcony insulation. In this case, you can independently make frames from wood, aluminum or steel profiles (corner, profile pipe) and glaze, or you can purchase ready-made double-glazed windows. The first option will be cheaper, but it is more time consuming and, most importantly, it will only slightly increase the temperature on the balcony in winter. You are unlikely to succeed in sealed windows without the use of double-glazed windows technology, they will have to be insulated for the winter or not, and leave the balcony, in principle, cold, which will only reduce the wind load. So it is better to order ready-made double-glazed windows for glazing.

If the balcony was not glazed, and you are not insulating the loggia, then the parapet for installing frames is most likely missing or insufficient. You can create a retaining wall in the form of a reinforcing cage with concreting or brick. To lighten the structure, expanded clay can be poured into concrete, reducing the overall load. The top of the parapet must also be reinforced with a metal profile.

If the protective grill of the balcony is strong enough, and the double-glazed windows are single-chamber, aluminum are very light, then wooden boards under the windowsill, which are attached to the upper part of the grill, can act as a support.

If the balcony has a small area, then you can weld a frame on brackets that protrudes beyond the concrete slab. At the same time, the window sill will not "eat" the valuable volume of the balcony. This arrangement of a balcony is called a take-out.

After that, the window sills and the frame of the future glazing are installed - without frames and sashes, which will be mounted later. For this, the metal structure is welded to the metal profile of the parapet and supports fixed to the neighbor's balcony slab from above. If you live on the upper floor, the structure will be more complicated, since you will have to make a canopy-roof, for example, from corrugated board, polycarbonate, etc. In this case, the racks must be more durable.

After the frame is fixed, the upper drainage systems (visor) are mounted and the double-glazed windows are installed according to the instructions.

For the glazing features of small balconies without increasing the area, see the video:

Insulation of the balcony from the inside

From the inside, the balcony is insulated from the walls, floor and ceiling. For this, you can use various thermal insulation materials.

Balcony insulation materials

Thermal conductivity of building heat-insulating materials differs within wide limits, therefore it is impossible to name the recommended thickness unambiguously. For information, see how the optimum thicknesses differ to achieve the same thermal resistance when using popular materials.

The basic requirements for materials also include:

long-term strength;
non-hygroscopicity;
fire safety.

Most often used:

mineral or stone wool - fiber insulation;
lightweight polystyrene and "Penoplex" (different types of expanded polystyrene) - plate materials;
polyurethane foam or "Penoflex" - polyurethane foam.

Sometimes a composition of these materials is used.

Fiber insulation is convenient to install when it is made in the form of soft slabs or blankets with a foil surface.

Polyurethane foam is applied using special, preferably professional equipment.

To compare the consumer properties of materials, we have summarized their main characteristics in a table.

Stages of insulating a balcony from the inside

Now that we know the main properties of heat-insulating building materials, we will consider the procedure for performing the work.

Advice! If lighting or connecting heating devices is supposed to be on the balcony, make the wiring to the lamp, switch and outlet in advance by placing the cables in plastic boxes. This will hide the wiring, which is much more attractive than open wiring.

Before work, make sure that dust, small particles of insulation or a solution do not pollute the apartment - cover the openings with foil.

Floor insulation

Insulation should start from the floor. First, a layer of waterproofing should be laid on the balcony slab. It can be ordinary polyethylene or foil insulation. At this stage, the waterproofing material can also be fixed to the walls.

To protect against condensation, a vapor barrier is laid on top. If you purchase an embossed film, then you need to lay it with the embossed side up.

The sub-floor is completed with 10 mm plywood in two layers. It is attached to the lags with self-tapping screws. Instead of plywood, you can use sheets of fiberboard or chipboard.

Ceiling insulation

Apply a layer of antiseptic to the cleaned ceiling. For thermal insulation, you can take foil mineral wool or foam. A good solution would be to use penofol - a foam material covered with aluminum foil, which is glued to PVA, and nailed on top with a crate for attaching the finishing layer of finishing - a type-setting ceiling, drywall or siding.

Styrofoam can be fixed to the ceiling using polyurethane foam.

Minvata is placed on a plasterboard false ceiling, which is fixed to a frame made of an aluminum profile or a wooden bar 40x40 mm.

If required, fix the fixtures.

Wall insulation

The waterproofing was already performed at the first stage, therefore, a vertical or horizontal lathing made of timber is immediately mounted on top of it. The distance between the bars is equal to the width of the insulating material. For walls, it is better to use expanded polystyrene or mineral wool plates.

PPP can be glued to special glue or foam, be sure to blow it out all the joints and cracks.

A vapor barrier film is fixed on top of the insulation.

Finishing work

There are many materials that can be used to decorate a balcony. This is drywall, which can be plastered or covered with wallpaper, and tiles, and vinyl siding, and lining.

Most balconies are equipped with stationary or mobile clothes dryers that can rise to the ceiling.

If the space allows, compact furniture or transforming furniture can be installed on the balcony: folding tables and seats, and some happy owners of wide balconies even equip a sleeping place. The window sill can be made wider and turned into a table top - for morning coffee or doing chores.

If you wish, you can install a fan heater on the balcony, which will allow you to use additional space in spring and autumn, or install an electric convector, which will make the balcony all-season for equipping an office or a winter garden there.

In conclusion, we suggest that you look at photos of the design finishes of the balcony space - for inspiration and a source of ideas.

In order to avoid disputes about the need to obtain permission to carry out the insulation of balconies or loggias, it is worth taking a closer look at this issue. The usual insulation of the walls of the loggia from the inside without installing external glazing systems can be carried out without issuing permits.

If it is envisaged to perform window fillings on the balcony, these works are equivalent to redevelopment and require the receipt of established permits.

Permission for redevelopment of loggias with insulation

Order project documentation and order certificates from supervisory organizations

Considering that non-glazed structures do not retain heat, it is possible to insulate floors, walls and ceilings, but this is an ineffective activity. Heat is reliably stored in the rooms of the loggias, where the external glazing is mounted; such work, according to the legislation of the Russian Federation, is a redevelopment and requires a permit for their implementation. Cases when a permit cannot be issued are determined by law:

The building belongs to the monuments of architectural heritage.
The structures of a residential building will not withstand the additional load (the building is dilapidated or intended for demolition).
The loggia insulation plan provides for the use of outdated building materials with an increased degree of fire.
If the redevelopment plan provides for the installation of heating systems and underfloor heating with their connection to common building communications.

In other cases, you will have to go through the procedure for obtaining a permit, before starting construction and installation work on insulation and glazing of the loggia.

To obtain a permit to carry out work on the redevelopment of the loggia, you will need to order design documentation from an organization that has a license to design residential buildings, as well as obtain the necessary information from a number of organizations.

The finished project is coordinated with the department of architecture and interested organizations (SES, fire safety department and others).

Carrying out work on the insulation of loggias without issuing the established permits may entail:

bringing the premises back to their original form at their own expense.
fines ranging from 2 to 2.5 thousand rubles.

Insulation technology

The sequence of insulation of the loggia is determined by the technology of work. Where to start insulating a loggia or balcony? First, you need to perform a number of preparatory steps.

First of all, the premises of the loggia are freed from the things stored there: they remove old furniture, boxes and pots for flowers. Laundry cord holders are removed, dismantled, mounted on the walls or ceiling, for linen cord holders.

If the floors of the loggia are covered, it must be disassembled, after which the slab must be revised. If necessary, the surface of the slab base is repaired, especially if concrete chips are found and bare reinforcement (iron bar without concrete coating) emerges on the surface.

The front fence of the loggia is dismantled, observing safety rules.

Before disassembling the structures, it is necessary to protect the house area with cords, hang out warning signs to prevent the occurrence of dangerous situations.

The procedure for insulating a loggia includes the following technological processes: glazing; insulation of the floor, ceiling, walls; reliable waterproofing device; external insulation; finishing. More details about each stage of work and the intricacies of the technological process below.

Glazing

Single-row glazing will protect you from bad weather, but not from frost

Providing for the glazing of the loggia, it is worth noting that all efforts to insulate structures will be reduced to zero if low-quality double-glazed windows are selected. Window fillings with single-row glazing will provide guaranteed weather protection, but such windows are not able to protect from frost.

When choosing a material for window fillings, it is worth abandoning wooden windows, because there is a danger of condensation on the loggia, which can negatively affect the condition of wooden frames. Aluminum and plastic windows can be installed on loggias without fear of increasing the maximum permissible load on the slab. Aluminum window structures are lighter than PVC structures, do not undergo corrosive processes, and are suitable for finishing loggias in any style.

The installation of window blocks should be carried out after strengthening the parapet, which can be made of monolithic concrete or foam concrete blocks (ceramic bricks). The thickness of the parapet is provided for at least 10 cm.

When installing window fillings, an additional profile is often used, which is installed along the perimeter of the window.

Insulation of the loggia from the inside

The process of insulating the balcony can be continued after the installation of double-glazed windows. The walls of the loggia can be conditionally divided into "cold" and "warm", bordering on heated rooms. Insulation usually covers only "cold" surfaces of structures, so as not to reduce the free space of the loggia. For details of loggia insulation, see this video:

The choice of insulation among the abundance of modern brands does not pose any particular difficulties, but when purchasing a certain type of material, the climatic conditions of the region are taken into account.

Expanded polystyrene

The most popular are the following heaters:

In addition to the main insulation, a number of materials will be required to help perform work in the loggia: foam, foam cleaner, foil tape, antiseptic primer, galvanized metal profile, fastening hardware, drywall sheets.

Penoplex wall insulation technology

Consider the technology of laying insulation on the walls of the loggia using the example of installing foam.

First, you need to treat the walls of the loggia with a primer, such a coating will prevent the spread of fungal infections and mold when unfavorable conditions occur (high humidity, condensation). After applying the primer, allow the wall surfaces to dry thoroughly. For more information about foam insulation technology, see this video:

Using a sharp clerical knife, it is convenient to cut the insulation to size. In cold climates, it is worthwhile to provide for laying the foam in 2 layers with an overlap of adjacent segments of at least 5 cm.

Work should begin with fixing the first layer of insulation with special dowels to the surface of the walls. The second layer can be attached on top of the first on polyurethane foam or the same dowels.

Styrofoam sheets are fixed in a similar way.

Insulation of ceiling structures

Insulation of the ceiling of the loggia begins with the fixing of galvanized hangers and guide profiles. Holes for suspensions are pre-cut in the sheets of insulation.

You can adjust these holes with polyurethane foam. The cut insulation is reinforced on the ceiling using foam or dowels with different cores. Plastic dowels are designed for fixing lightweight materials, metal ones are used for heavy slabs.

Loggia floor: laying insulation

The floor of the loggia is considered to be the "coldest" surface and needs to be provided with maximum insulation. It is from the floor, which is poorly insulated, that the cold spreads throughout the loggia, so it is worthwhile to provide for the laying of insulation in 2 layers. For more information about insulating the floor of the loggia, see this video:

After cleaning the slab, assessing its technical condition, a decision is made to perform a leveling screed, which must dry thoroughly before continuing the insulation process.

The floors are treated 2-3 times with a protective solution against the appearance of fungus and mold, after which waterproofing can be arranged.

The next stage is laying the strips and transverse logs, which are fixed with galvanized self-tapping screws, while it is important to ensure that all the logs are of the same thickness.

The best material for floor insulation is mineral wool, the material ideally fills the crate, reliably insulating the smallest gaps and holes.

At the end of the laying of the mineral wool, they proceed to the construction of the subfloor. What material to choose for the device for finishing the floor in the loggia depends on the style of the room and the personal tastes of the owner. For information on how to treat mold and mildew, see this video:

Starting a conversation about outdoor insulation, it is worth warning about the inadmissibility of independent actions at height; professional industrial climbers should be involved in such work. The rest of the work on warming and finishing loggias can be easily done with your own hands, with some experience in construction work.