Do-it-yourself insulation of brick walls from the inside. How to properly insulate the walls of a brick house from the inside How to insulate a brick house inside

Heat in the building - essential condition coziness and comfort. Unfortunately, quite often the walls of the house are not sufficiently insulated and do not retain the precious heat inside the building. Therefore, the insulation of brick walls from the outside becomes an urgent problem for owners of buildings with insufficient thermal insulation... Despite the seeming complexity of the operation, it is quite possible to do it yourself, having previously studied all the nuances of the question.

Choosing a method: from the inside or outside

Any specialist will answer that when choosing an insulation option, it will be correct to prefer an external structure. There are several reasons for this. First of all, a layer of insulation, mounted on outside wall, will become a reliable barrier between comfortable indoor temperatures and cold air "from the street". In this case, the main wall is not only isolated from the impact low temperatures, but also receives additional protection from sunlight and moisture, which significantly extends its service life.

However, there is an opinion that outdoor insulation is too laborious and complicated process. Therefore, the frightened owners of "cold" houses think about how to insulate brick wall from the inside. We are confident that it is quite simple and quite doable with our own hands. However, here lies serious mistake... The problem is that as a result internal insulation the wall will not become warmer, on the contrary, its even more severe freezing is quite possible. This method of insulation can lead to disastrous results.

Strictly speaking, internal wall insulation is allowed if:

There is a prohibition by the administration of the settlement on any changes to the facade of the building.
Behind the wall there is an elevator shaft or any unheated room in which it is impossible to mount insulation.
Behind the "cold" wall is expansion joint between houses.

Internal wall insulation shifts the "dew point" towards the room, which leads to even greater freezing of the structure

In these cases, the insulation of brick walls from the inside will become a necessary forced measure. In other cases, the installation of external thermal insulation will be the most correct solution.

Choosing the "right" insulation

You should be aware that there are no “bad” coatings. Each of them will cope with the task assigned to it. The difference lies in the features different types insulation and, of course, in their cost. If you want to save money, you need to compare available options and, taking into account all the nuances, choose the most suitable coating. You will have to choose from several options:

extruded polystyrene foam or EPS;
basalt slabs;
polyurethane foam;
polystyrene or expanded polystyrene;
cellulose insulation;
mineral wool.

The differences in materials are in vapor permeability, moisture resistance and thermal conductivity. These characteristics are the main ones when choosing a heater. The first two parameters are selected for the desired installation method and with the obligatory consideration of climatic conditions. The required thickness of the layer to be laid depends on the thermal conductivity. It is from this indicator that the choice of insulation begins. It is necessary to calculate the width of the insulating layer for different materials. In this case, possible heat losses and the power of the installed heating system.

All other things being equal, choose a heater that has the smallest layer width of all. It will be easiest to lay it

If it is difficult to perform calculations based on GOSTs and SNiPs on your own, it is better to contact the design organization. The resulting calculations will become the basis for choosing the type of coverage. It is very important to take into account the number of layers of material required for insulation and its standard sizes. As practice shows, it is best to dwell on a coating that, with other qualities being the same, has a smaller layer thickness. It will be much easier to lay it.

Preparing walls for thermal insulation

Before you start insulating brick walls, you should carefully prepare the base. For this old plaster or the insulation is stripped down to brick. The wall is carefully examined. If various irregularities are visible, such as protrusions, depressions or differences in height, they are compressed to an acceptable level or filled with mortar. After the base has dried, it is thoroughly cleaned of dirt and settled dust. A primer is applied to a clean surface. Best of all, if it is a deep penetration solution. The surface dries well.

On a prepared basis, a system of plumb lines and beacons is mounted, which is necessary to obtain an even layer of insulation. The design defines the outer edges of the insulating layer, which greatly facilitates its installation and subsequent finishing. To equip the structure, screws or anchors are attached to the upper edge of the wall in a row. A strong thread or cord with a plumb line at the end is attached to each of them. They should go down to the very bottom of the base. Horizontal threads are laid and fixed between them. Thus, a mesh is obtained, which is guided by the installation of insulation.

We work with mineral wool

If you are going to insulate brick walls from the outside with mineral wool, they begin with the installation of the crate and frame system. This is necessary so that the material is firmly adhered to the wall. The crate is made of wooden beam, the width of the structure should be about 2-3 cm less than that of a sheet of cotton wool. Only in this case will it be able to fit into its place tightly and without unnecessary gaps. Anchors are mounted together with the crate, and insulation sheets will subsequently be put on them. If the wall is uneven, it is best to choose a two-layer coating. Its layers vary in density. More soft material must be directed to the wall, then the best adhesion between the base and the insulation will be ensured.

Brick wall insulation scheme with mineral wool

Finishing on top of mineral wool can be very diverse. Most often, this is plastering with a reinforcing mesh or, when fixing the insulation with an external crate with wind protection, the use of various facings: from brick to lining and siding. In the latter case, an excellent three-layer ventilated insulation is obtained, which can be used in almost any type of climate.

Insulation with polyurethane foam

Insulation is initially a foamed liquid. It is quite difficult to form a layer of the desired width and configuration from it, therefore it is most often used for thermal insulation of roof slopes and attic spaces. However, if desired, they can successfully insulate the walls of a brick house from the outside. The technology involves the construction of a frame with an external windscreen and pouring the mortar directly into it.

Undeniable dignity method is that maximum adhesion to the wall allows for excellent thermal insulation.

Thermal insulation with expanded polystyrene

It is quite easy to insulate the walls with expanded polystyrene and EPS. First, a small shelf from the corner is mounted at the bottom of the insulated structure, which is necessary to align the insulation sheets. The sheets are attached to the wall using a special adhesive solution. The cloths are abundantly lubricated with it, installed in a prepared place and pressed tightly. The evenness and correctness of the installation must be controlled using the level of a pre-assembled plumb line.

If insulation is supposed to be in several layers, each subsequent layer can be laid only after the already installed one has "grabbed" well. Experts recommend mounting sheets of insulation with an offset of about half of the previous layer. Since the final strengthening of the panels is supposed anchoring, it turns out that each fastener holds not only the corners of the top sheet, but also the middle of the plates of the previous row.

The joints of the canvases must be glued with reinforcing plaster tape. In areas around window openings and at the corners of the building, the insulation must be fixed with special metal corners. A reinforcing mesh is fixed on the laid layer of thermal insulation, after which it becomes possible to carry out plastering. At the end of all work, there should not be any gaps or open places where access to the foam is possible. Otherwise, the insulation can be damaged by rodents.

The finish of the insulated wall can be very diverse.

The biggest disadvantage of such insulation is the low vapor permeability of the material. This can interfere with the drainage of condensation and moisture from the wall. Therefore, experts strongly recommend thoroughly dry the walls before starting work. If this is not possible, you should make adjustments to your plans and build an insulating structure with a ventilated or at least partially ventilated facade. Only in this case, moisture will not be able to linger on the main walls and destroy them.

Of course, you need to fight for warmth in the house. Many intend to do it on their own. Recommendations on how to insulate a brick wall from the outside are quite simple. To complete them, you will not need special knowledge and skills in the field of construction. Following all instructions, patience and accuracy will allow you to get an excellent result, and always warm house will meet its owners with comfort and coziness.

Brick is durable and non-combustible material, it can withstand high loads and is used in the construction of buildings of various storeys. The main disadvantage of such a house is the high thermal conductivity of the walls. The problem can be solved by increasing the thickness of the brickwork or by insulating the building from the outside.

Insulation of brick walls is divided into three types: external, internal and intra-wall. The latter option involves the construction of a building with well masonry and the placement of a heat insulator at the construction stage.

Internal insulation takes away the useful area of the premises, it provokes dampness of the walls and is not effective enough. Its advantage is the ability to complete the work at any convenient time and the low cost of materials. If you have a choice, you should give preference to external thermal insulation.

Among its advantages:

The walls are protected from external influences, so they will last a long time.
Significant reduction in heating costs.
The ability to create the architectural design of the house to your liking.
Lack of moisture, mold and mildew on the surface of the walls.

The main characteristics of thermal insulation materials

For the protection of brick walls to be reliable and durable, the materials used must have characteristics that allow them to withstand precipitation, wind, frost and heat.

Water absorption coefficient is a product characteristic that shows how much moisture it can absorb. It is better to choose a material with a low rate.
The thermal conductivity coefficient is the main criterion in the study of insulation. It shows the amount of heated air lost per hour per sq. m of material having a thickness of 1 m. This indicator is guided by when choosing the thickness of the insulation layer. The best products for this criterion are foam and mineral wool.
Flammability - determines how dangerous the material is in case of fire. Products are divided into four cash registers according to this characteristic, it is better to give preference to G1, which go out without open fire. Expanded polystyrene boards are susceptible to fire, when using them for cladding, choose with the "C" marking, meaning self-extinguishing.
Density determines the amount of additional weight per structure - the lower the indicator, the lighter the material.
The sound insulation level indicates the possibilities of reducing the penetrating noise. All popular heat insulators possess this quality to a sufficient extent.
Environmental friendliness - the criterion determines the safety of the insulation for health. For exterior decoration it is not decisive, but natural materials preferable to synthetic ones.
The complexity of installation - if the work is done by hand, you need to choose a simple and understandable technology for laying thermal insulation.

The list of popular materials for cladding a house outside includes a few products:

Styrofoam;
extruded polystyrene foam;
mineral wool;
warm plaster.

They have a different composition, cost and installation features. Let's consider each material in detail.

Polyfoam - plates made of expanded polystyrene, which are cells with gas. This structure provides a low thermal conductivity of 0.032-0.039, good sound insulation and light weight. The density of the foam is 35-50 kg / m3, the recommended layer thickness is 10 cm. The material is capable of absorbing moisture, therefore it requires waterproofing. The disadvantage of insulation is flammability, vapor permeability and sensitivity to light.

Extruded polystyrene foam - the product has the properties of foam, but in an improved version. The material does not absorb water, it is more durable and easy to process, its thermal conductivity is 0.028-0.032. The cost of extruded polystyrene foam boards is higher than other materials for thermal insulation.

Mineral wool is one of the best heaters, it does not burn, is safe, has a low density - 35-125 kg / m3. The raw materials for the material are glass, stone and slag. Air voids of 10-15 cm remain between the fibers, due to which the mineral wool has a thermal conductivity of 0.04-0.045, absorbs noise well and passes steam. For effective protection, a layer of 10-15 cm is needed.

The product is produced in the form of rolls, mats and slabs. Basalt wool in the slab version is characterized by resistance to deformation and increased density - 75-150 kg / m3. the material fits easily into the frame and does not cause problems during installation. The only drawback of mineral wool is its high water absorption, which requires mandatory waterproofing. Insulation is affordable, which contributes to its popularity.

Warm plaster is a dry mixture of cement, lime, plasticizers and additives from expanded polystyrene granules, expanded clay, perlite. The material is somewhat inferior in terms of thermal insulation - 0.06-0.065, but has many advantages: it does not burn, has vapor permeability, is resistant to moisture and microorganisms, and insulates sound well. The plaster has a significant density of 200-350 kg / m3, so it puts additional stress on the foundation. The maximum insulation thickness is 5 cm.

Talking about how to insulate brick house outside, the possibility of finishing with thermal panels should not be missed. This material is characterized by a low coefficient of thermal conductivity of 0.025 with a small thickness of 60-100 mm. The basis of the product is polyurethane foam, the decorative part is made of ceramic tiles... The material is resistant to frost and moisture, is quickly assembled and does not require additional finishing.

Mineral wool insulation technology

Insulation of a brick house is carried out in two ways:

creation of a ventilated facade;
« wet facade», Gluing boards to walls.

Mineral wool is optimal for the first method, which involves the creation of a crate and a multi-layer cake with steam and waterproofing.

A crate made of timber treated with an antiseptic composition or a metal profile is stuffed onto the surface of the walls. The guides are placed with a step less than the width of the insulation by 2 cm. This will allow the material to be laid more tightly.
Mineral wool is placed between the bars and covered with a waterproofing sheet.
The film is attached to the crate with a stapler.
Thin slats are stuffed on top of the moisture protection, which will provide an air gap between the insulation and the cladding.
Siding is attached to the slats.

Basalt wool slabs are strong enough to be mounted without a frame. Correct styling insulation begins by screwing the bottom of a horizontal metal profile, which will keep the material from slipping. Plates are fixed with special glue and dowels with a wide head. Each row starts with an offset. After finishing all the surfaces of the facade, a mesh is laid on the mineral wool and a layer of plaster is applied.

Thermal insulation of a house with polystyrene foam according to the principle of "wet facade"

Panels of foam or extruded polystyrene foam are fixed to the wall using a simple technique called "wet facade" due to the presence of processes that require drying.

Preparation of a brick wall is in progress: cleaning from dirt, elimination of defects, priming.
At the level of the basement, a metal profile is attached, which will become a beacon when laying the first row and a drip for moisture.
Glue is dotted on the insulation boards, and they are pressed against the wall.
Additional fastening with dowels is carried out - in the corners and in the center.
Work starts from the bottom of the corner, the rows are stacked with an offset for the stability of the structure.
Lay on top of the finished insulation plastic mesh for reinforcement and apply a thin base layer plaster.
After the mortar has dried, priming and finishing with decorative plaster are performed.

How to apply warm plaster to the walls?

Working with insulating plaster will take time, especially in the absence of painting skills. To properly prepare the solution, the mixture is diluted according to the instructions.

Brick walls are cleaned, protruding parts are removed. The surface is primed with a penetrating compound.
Fastened plaster mesh and beacons to create a common plane.
The prepared solution is applied to the walls. The thickness of the layer depends on the climatic conditions, but it should not exceed 5 cm.
On finished surface you can create various decorative textures.

The considered heaters can be used in any region, the thickness of effective thermal insulation is calculated according to local climatic characteristics.

Insulating a brick house from the inside has a number of disadvantages compared to insulating the outer surface of the walls. Therefore, deciding on such a step, you should understand that internal insulation is much less effective than external insulation, and you should not count on special comfort in a harsh winter. In addition, serious internal insulation will reduce the inside of the house - at least 10 cm along each wall. After the completion of the insulation work, it will be necessary to carry out the interior decoration of the walls.

When insulating walls from the inside, do not forget about vapor barrier, all materials for insulation are afraid of water.

The advantage of internal insulation is its cost - lower than the cost of external insulation. In addition, the house retains its architectural appearance.

Sometimes insulation from the inside is the only thing possible option- for example, in the case of a cold wall in a brick high-rise building.

Starting the internal insulation of the walls of a brick house, one should be guided by the principle of increasing the vapor transmission capacity of the material outward.

When choosing a material for insulating a brick wall from the inside, it is necessary to take into account the "dew point".

That is, it is necessary to choose a heater with a lower vapor transmission capacity than a brick. This is necessary so that moisture from the air inside the house does not penetrate into the masonry, thereby increasing its freezing. Fungus and mold grow rapidly on walls damp with condensation under the insulation, and this not only destroys the house, but also negatively affects the health of its inhabitants.

Therefore, before, it is plastered and covered with special antiseptic and antifungal solutions.

It is also necessary to organize good ventilation in the house, whether it be special ventilation holes with access to the mine or just regular ventilation.

It is necessary to decide why exactly you intend from the inside - the reason for this is year-round residence or just a comfortable stay in bad weather or off-season. It depends on what type of insulation it makes sense to choose.

Consider the most popular types of heaters and the features of their installation from the inside of the house.

Features of penofol

Thermal insulation scheme with foam foil foiled on both sides.

It is a reflective multi-layer insulation material consisting of a base (expanded polyethylene different thickness from 3 to 10 mm) and construction foil. If you want to insulate a brick house used only at positive temperatures (for example, a summer cottage), penofol can be chosen as an independent insulation. In addition, penofol is used as an additional insulation plus vapor barrier when using mineral wool. Penofol is of three types: "A" - with one-sided foil (for walls), "B" - with double-sided foil (for interfloor partitions) and "C" - with one-sided foil and a self-adhesive layer. It must be remembered that aluminum is a good conductor of electricity, and before insulating walls, you need to insulate the wiring well. The advantage of this material is the minimum loss of internal space, since the insulation with standard 4 mm foam foam is equal to an eight-centimeter layer of mineral wool with a vapor barrier film.

Required materials: penofol, aluminum adhesive tape, 20 mm thick wooden blocks for lathing, wood / drywall screws, drywall or lining.

Penofol is fastened end-to-end, the junction is fixed with tape.

Necessary equipment: a knife, a construction stapler, a bar saw, a hammer drill with a drill suitable for self-tapping screws.

on the wall of the house from the inside, we attach a crate of wooden bars in such a way that an air layer of 20 mm remains between the foam foil and the brick;
on the crate with a construction stapler we attach the foam foil with a foil layer inside the room end-to-end, glue the joints with aluminum adhesive tape;
we install the second crate of two-centimeter bars on top of penofol;
we attach drywall or lining to the crate. In the case of drywall, we finish the exterior finish - we putty the seams, paint the wall or paste over with wallpaper.

Sometimes penofol is attached directly to the wall with glue or double-sided tape. This makes the job easier, but makes the insulation less effective. It is also possible to glue the wallpaper directly onto the penofol, but the wall at the same time becomes "soft", dents remain on it.

Advantages of expanded polystyrene

The scheme of insulation of a brick wall from the inside with foam.

In other words, this is a well-known foam. Easy to install, lightweight and budget option available to anyone who wants to insulate their home from the inside. For greater fire resistance and less brittleness, we recommend choosing extruded polystyrene foam. Choose the thickness and density of the sheets depending on the purposes of insulation.

Required materials: expanded polystyrene, polystyrene foam, glue for expanded polystyrene, mounting disc dowels, "fungi", metal profile for drywall, drywall, drywall screws.

Necessary equipment: a knife, metal scissors, a wide spatula-comb for applying glue and a small handy spatula, a bucket for diluting glue, scissors for metal, a perforator with a drill suitable for "fungi" and self-tapping screws, a nozzle for mixing glue or just a rod.

Polyfoam is affordable, easy to install and durable enough. The downside of this material is that it takes up a lot of space.

we dilute the glue for expanded polystyrene in accordance with the instructions (we choose carefully, since the foam is destroyed from a number of paints and varnishes and nitro paints);
apply glue with a spatula to the walls;
glue sheets of polystyrene foam, tap them carefully to avoid air "pockets";
we blow out loose seams between sheets of polyurethane foam;
cut the profile into "crabs" 10 cm long;
we turn the pieces of the profile with the flat side to the polystyrene, with the "fungi" we pull them to the wall;
on these "crabs" we fasten the crate from the profile;
we attach drywall to the crate, then exterior decoration- we putty the seams, paint the walls or glue the wallpaper.

It is not recommended to install the profile between the sheets of expanded polystyrene directly on the wall, because in this case so-called "cold bridges" are formed, which do not so much cool the room as create conditions for the appearance of moisture and mold.

Mineral wool applications

Scheme of wall insulation with mineral wool, protected on both sides by vapor barrier.

Another budget and widespread type of insulation. The disadvantages of mineral wool are its high vapor permeability and carcinogenicity. Therefore, when insulating a house, it is necessary, firstly, to use a vapor barrier film, and secondly, when working with mineral wool, wear long-sleeved clothes, work with gloves and a respirator. To safely insulate the house from the inside, the mineral wool must be sewn up - with drywall, plywood, clapboard, etc.

Required materials: mineral wool in sheets or rolls, vapor barrier film (as an option - glassine, cellophane, penofol), metal profile for drywall (guide and rack), self-tapping screws for drywall, Delta type vapor barrier glue, aluminum or acrylic adhesive tape.

Necessary equipment: knife, metal scissors, puncher, level (ideally - laser).

For the installation of mineral wool, you will definitely need a crate. It can be made from a metal profile or wooden blocks.

we glue a vapor barrier film on the wall, glue the joints with adhesive tape;
with the help of a level we set along the walls metal carcass from the profile, it should be spaced from the wall surface at a distance slightly less than the thickness of the mineral wool. The frame must be made as rigid as possible, the distance between the longitudinal profiles should be slightly less than the width of the sheet or roll of mineral wool;
we evenly hammer the distance between the wall and the frame with mineral wool, the insulation should lie tight, but not be too rammed - not the fibers, but the air between them, retain heat;
we attach a layer of vapor barrier or foam foam on top, glue the joints;
we mount drywall, then - external finishing.

In addition to the walls, it makes sense to insulate the floor and ceiling.

To insulate the floor, logs from a bar are attached to the existing surface, between them either expanded polystyrene is laid with subsequent foaming of the seams, or the mineral wool is tightly clogged. After that, we recommend laying the floor with a vapor barrier film so that moisture from the house does not get into the "pie" from the insulation and the timber. Then the floorboards and thick plywood are laid, which can be painted, or linoleum or laminate can be laid on top.

The ceiling can be insulated by analogy with walls. After completing all these works, you will get a well-keeping warm room.

The quality of central heating is poor, and the time and external factors negatively affect the state of the supporting structures. Heating bills are going up, but not getting warmer. It is reasonable to solve such problems by insulating the walls of the dwelling. This is especially true for brick and panel houses.

Isolation efficiency

The choice of external or internal insulation method is fundamental and requires a responsible approach. When installing an insulating barrier from the inside, brick walls do not come into contact with the heat of the room and therefore can freeze to the boundaries of contact with the insulation.

Such a development of events negates the effect of thermal insulation, or even does not give it at all. External insulation has the opposite effect and therefore is several times superior to the opponent. But there are circumstances in which the installation of insulation on the wall surface is not possible.

Grounds for work from the inside

The only argument in favor of internal insulation can be:

a ban by local authorities on work related to changing the facade of buildings (architectural monuments, buildings of central streets, etc.);
outside there is an expansion joint;
the wall separates the room from the elevator shaft or other technical room, where there is no access for the installation of insulation;
internal insulation is provided by the house construction project.

If there are no options to avoid indoor insulation, then it is necessary to take seriously the organization of work, starting from the selection of heat-insulating composites and ending with the installation technology.

Features of internal insulation

Warming of inner surfaces affects the position of the dew point, shifting it to the inner border supporting structure... This term denotes a conditional place on the plane where the release (condensation) of moisture occurs from the heated air in the room. It should be located no deeper than the middle of the section of the brick wall, but preferably as close as possible to the outer edge.

Constant dampness leads to the appearance of harmful microorganisms (mold), cracks and breaks in the walls, loss of the thermal insulation qualities of the barrier. Brickwork is most susceptible to the negative influence of moisture.

Thermal insulation interior walls that meets the requirements put forward will be made in the form of a new wall mounted close to either air gap... But you should be prepared for the fact that the useful area of housing will decrease. This is especially noticeable in small apartments.

Composite selection

When choosing a material for thermal insulation from the inside of a room, one must first of all proceed from the indicators of vapor permeability and moisture absorption. Further, it is worth considering that the seams and joint gaps are the place where moisture escapes into the room and air penetrates to the cold surface.

What will not work

Polyfoam forms many seams that require additional sealing, and also has a high moisture absorption rate. From the point of view of fire safety of a residential building, it is better not to use it, since it burns with the release of toxic substances.

Polyurethane foam

It has excellent moisture and thermal insulation performance, as well as good adhesion to a brick surface. No masonry required special treatment and alignment. The only significant drawback is the complexity of installation.

Cured polyurethane foam is not resistant to mechanical stress and requires additional protection. The boundary of the formation of moisture will be either on the inner surface of the wall, or in the thickness of the insulation. However, due to the good hermetic properties of polyurethane, condensation is not observed.

High pressure extruded polystyrene foam is also available from the available materials. Although it is mounted with the formation of a large number of joints, it also possesses good performance moisture resistance and vapor permeability, and smolders when ignited.

It is quite possible to mount it with your own hands, without involving professional builders... But it is worth strictly adhering to the assembly technology and the stages of the process.

The sequence of thermal insulation works

Having decided on the insulation material and the installation method, you can go shopping. It is important to remember that saving on composites or changing the assembly technology for this purpose can lead to big troubles.

Preparatory stage

It is necessary to insulate a brick house at a temperature not lower than 20 ° C and low air humidity in order to achieve maximum dryness of the walls. It is advisable to additionally dry the surfaces with a heat gun before starting work in order to dry the partition from the inside.

Any resulting debris and dust must be removed. A properly prepared surface should not contain anything other than load-bearing structural elements.

Places affected by fungal spores and exposed to prolonged exposure to moisture require increased attention. The fight against mold is completed by applying antiseptics and a deep penetration primer to the wall. Each layer you apply must dry well.

Before using expanded polystyrene, the surface is leveled with special water-repellent mixtures. The putty must dry and achieve the required strength from the inside. This is a matter of several days, and the use of heat-generating devices is not recommended.

The finished wall is covered with two layers of soil and allowed to dry. Such careful preparation require brick construction. Concrete panels are quite flat and only need to be treated with sealants. Next comes the layout of the heat-insulating material.

Working with polyurethane foam

When applied, polyurethane has a liquid consistency, therefore a layer with a thickness of more than 2 cm must be sprayed in several stages.

To evenly distribute the material over the layer, formwork and division of the plane into segments are used. The frame construction is unacceptable, as it violates the integrity of the coating.

Work with expanded polystyrene should be started after the brickwork has been leveled and primed. And as a fastener, use mixtures with moisture-proof properties, applying them evenly on the sheet so that air "cushions" do not appear.

The formed seams, as well as the joints of the plates, must be carefully treated with sealants. And for the construction of a protective layer, use a special profile, previously inserted into the seam and fixed on the ceiling and floor.

Protective layer

The assembled insulation must dry before installing the waterproofing barrier. After that, you can proceed to the construction of the protective layer to be decorated (wallpaper, tiles, painting).
The most practical option is to assemble a frame for attaching drywall, only fixation should be carried out to adjacent walls, ceiling and floor, so as not to violate the integrity of the layer. Or laying is done in half a brick.

Extruded polystyrene foam can be putty, covered with a reinforcing mesh, but if there were flaws in the installation, they will soon appear, besides, the mechanical strength and practicality is inferior to drywall.

Correctly selected thermal insulation composite and strict adherence to installation rules will add to the external fortress of a brick house internal warmth and comfort.

September 3, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works(laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing a roof, etc.). Internal construction work (laying of internal communications, rough and final finishing). Hobby: mobile communications, high technologies, computer technology, programming.

My neighbor has brick bath, which he decided to insulate from the outside with expanded polystyrene or stone wool. He called me for help. We spent four days on work, as we decided not to plaster the walls, but to decorate them with siding.

Today I will tell you how and how to insulate a residential building with brick walls outside.

Choosing a method of placing insulating material

First, let's figure out which side it is best to fasten the thermal insulation to the walls of a brick building. Personally, I usually use two methods of insulating a house or, for example, a bath - from the inside and outside.

You can, of course, still install heat-insulating material on both sides, but this method is for middle lane Russia, in my opinion, is redundant. Although for the regions of the Far North, it has a right to exist.

I must say right away that I usually try to mount thermal insulation material on the facades of buildings, since insulation from the inside of a brick wall has several significant disadvantages:

The usable area inside the premises is reduced. You need to install not only the thermal insulation material itself, but also the devices for its installation, plus vapor barrier films and decorative material. As a result, the thickness of the enclosing structures will increase significantly, which will lead to a decrease in the size of the rooms.
There is a need to dismantle the decorative finishing of the premises. If measures to insulate a house or a bath are carried out after putting it into operation, then to install the insulation, you will need to remove the interior trim (wallpaper, panels, etc.), and then put them back (which is not always possible).

This technology increases the time spent on work, the estimated cost of insulation and labor costs.

The humidity rises in the room. If for thermal insulation you used vapor-tight insulation and dense vapor barrier membranes, the air will not pass through the enclosing walls, and the moisture dissolved in it will accumulate inside the room.
As a result, you will either have to suffer from dampness, or equip a very effective ventilation (usually I do forced ventilation in such cases).
In some cases, mold and mildew appear on walls and other surfaces. This is due to a violation of air exchange in the room and an increase in the level of humidity.
Moreover, harmful microorganisms can develop not only on surfaces, but also inside the insulating cake, which greatly reduces the life of the insulator.
When insulating internal surfaces, you do not protect against destructive external influences walls of the building. They will constantly experience significant temperature fluctuations, which also leads to the destruction of their internal structure and a reduction in their service life.

Therefore, before insulating a brick wall from the inside, always consider the possibility of external insulation. After all, this method, in contrast to the one discussed above, has many advantages:

When installed outdoors, the insulation material not only prevents unproductive heat loss from living quarters, but also protects brick walls from annual freeze-thaw cycles.
External insulation technology allows you to shift the dew point inside the enclosing structures so that condensed moisture is removed outside through the ventilation gaps in the insulation layer, and does not accumulate inside, leading to damage to the wall.
Insulation allows you to increase the thermal inertia of a thermally insulated structure. The bottom line is that during operation, the walls gradually accumulate thermal energy, and with a short-term decrease in the air temperature outside, there are ways to independently maintain the desired microclimate in the house for some time without using heating devices.
Measures for the external insulation of the house can be easily combined with the decorative finishing of the facade. This reduces the cost of thermal insulation and project implementation time.
Correctly selected material allows not only to insulate the structure, but also to perform its sound insulation. The heat insulator layer effectively absorbs sound waves.

This method has many more advantages that are not so essential, so I will not talk about them. It is much more important to figure out which insulation is best for the walls of a brick house.

The choice of insulation

So, let's figure out the better to insulate a brick bathhouse or a house outside. I will not now talk about all the variety presented on construction market insulation materials.

I can only say that I prefer mineral (namely, basalt) wool to all of them, formed into mats of a certain length, width and thickness. This insulation has a huge number of advantages:

Low coefficient of thermal conductivity. Mineral wool is a very effective heat insulator, which makes it possible to install an insulating layer of small thickness. For central Russia, 10 cm is enough to effectively retain heat inside living rooms.
High vapor permeability. Fiber mats do not interfere with the passage of air molecules through mineral surfaces. This contributes to self-regulation of indoor humidity and the formation of a comfortable microclimate there for living.
Low weight. The heat-insulating material itself and the structures necessary to secure it (wooden lathing and siding) after installation on the walls do not exert a large load on the structural elements.
Hydrophobic properties. Basalt fibers, which are made from minerals of volcanic origin, absolutely do not absorb water. In addition, during the production process, mineral wool insulation is treated with hydrophobic substances that prevent the accumulation of moisture inside the heat-insulating layer. Subject to the installation technology, basalt mats do not change their heat-preserving properties, depending on the level of humidity outside.
High sound absorption coefficient. The insulation I am considering, unlike, for example, expanded polystyrene, has open structure and fibers oriented in different directions. Therefore, it absorbs sound waves well and acts as an effective noise insulator.

Non-flammability. The melting temperature of basalt fibers is over 1000 degrees Celsius. Therefore, in the event of a fire, mineral wool does not ignite and does not contribute to the further spread of fire. The material does not emit toxic substances into the air that impede evacuation or fire extinguishing.
Environmental friendliness. Products are made from natural volcanic stone, which is absolutely harmless. For gluing the fibers, formaldehyde resin is used, but it is exposed to a temperature of 250-300 degrees, after which it becomes practically harmless to the human body.
Easy to install. For the installation of mineral wool on the outer surface of the walls, you need minimal set tools and fixtures. And I'll tell you just how to fix the insulation just below.

In principle, foam plastic has similar properties, the price of which is lower than the cost of basalt wool. However, he:

firstly, it is not vapor-permeable, which means it will be humid in the rooms;
and secondly, it is a very flammable material and, when ignited, releases chemical compounds hazardous to humans.

Therefore, I prefer to use polystyrene only in the case when the cost of insulation for the customer is very critical, or when the facade is to be finished with a thin-layer cement screed.

In the described case, I purchased TekhnoNikol Technoblok standard thermal insulation 50 mm thick and 1200 x 600 mm in size. The density of the material is 45 kg per cubic meter. One package of mineral wool boards is enough for finishing 8.6 square meters walls.

Insulation installation technology

I have already mentioned a little that the insulating layer in the case I am describing will be 10 cm thick. However, I will mount it on a different crate located perpendicularly. Thus, it is possible to exclude the formation of cold bridges along the seams of the insulating layer.

Required tools

Mineral mats are not all that is needed in the process of insulating brick walls of a residential building or bathhouse. Let's take more:

wooden blocks with a cross section of 50 by 50 mm, of which the crate will be made for the installation of insulation;
dowels with screws or dowel-nails that will hold the lathing on the outer surface of the walls;
an antiseptic primer for pretreating mineral surfaces before installing thermal insulation;
a waterproofing membrane that will protect the insulation under the cladding from the effects of atmospheric moisture and wind ruffling;
double-sided adhesive tape for sealing the joints between individual sheets of waterproofing film.
U-shaped perforated brackets, on which the lathing for external decorative material is fixed;
galvanized profiles to which fittings and plastic siding will be attached;
siding, initial, corner, intermediate and finishing profiles for its installation;
screws, screws and nails that may be needed during the work.

Based on the materials, we decided, now the tools:

punch or impact drill for making holes in brick walls (dowels will be inserted into them with screws holding wooden crate on the walls);
screwdriver for screwing fasteners when installing siding;
brush or roller for priming walls;
construction stapler with staples for fixing the waterproofing film on the crate;
carpenter's knife or fine-toothed saw for cutting mineral mats;
measuring devices (tape measure, level, marker and so on).

Considering that mineral wool does not irritate the skin and mucous membranes of the human body, it is not necessary to take any special measures to protect the respiratory organs and hands. You can simply put on work clothes and linen gloves.

Preparation

Before fixing the insulation outside, I definitely prepare the surface of the walls. This procedure is simple, but the service life of the heat-insulating layer largely depends on it.

The scheme of work is as follows:

Repairing the surface of a brick wall... It is necessary to rid the brick wall of defects and irregularities that can place the installation of the lathing and insulation.

First of all, with the help of a punch, I get rid of various protrusions and architectural decorations, which are often abundant in the brickwork of houses built in the last century. All details in the form of diamonds, triangles and squares must be knocked down, otherwise they can cause the formation of cold bridges, which worsen the effectiveness of thermal insulation.

Also, I always examine a brick wall for cracks, chips and other similar defects. They need to be filled with polyurethane foam or repaired with cement mortar.

I clean the mineral surface. After repair, you need to save brickwork from traces of debris, dust and residues of building materials.

If during the repair of the wall you used polyurethane foam, you need to cut off its excess with a clerical knife. Also, clean off the remnants of the cement mortar from the brick, which dripped from the trowel during the repair, and so it froze on the wall.

I always pay special attention to finding and removing metal objects (pieces of wire, fittings, and so on). It is better to get rid of them, since during operation they corrode and can cause premature destruction or damage to the enclosing walls or the insulation layer.

Dirt brick wall. This procedure improves the adhesion properties of the surface and prevents the growth of mold and mildew on the walls.

It is necessary to use a brick wall primer with an additional antiseptic effect. I can use Caparol FungiGrund as an example, but you may well use something else.

It is advisable to cover the wall in two layers. But the second should be applied only after the first is completely dry.

At the same time, you can perform an antiseptic treatment of wooden blocks that will be needed for the lathing. You just need to take a liquid specially designed for application to wood.

After all the compositions are dry, you can proceed to the next stage of work.

Installation of mineral wool

We continue to work:

I install the bars of the first row of insulation.
Mounted wooden elements on a brick wall using dowel nails or screws. To do this, you need to drill a hole in wood and brick, then make a small recess with a larger diameter drill (the cap will hide in it), and then screw a screw into the recess.

During installation, it is important to check the correctness of the installation by the water level. It depends on how smoothly the planks are installed appearance buildings after installing vinyl siding.

If necessary, you can put small wooden wedges under the bar in the place of its fixation, thanks to which the vertical will be precisely observed.

Highly important point in this process - to withstand correct distance between adjacent frame parts. Considering that the width of TechnoNICOL insulation is 600 mm, it is necessary to make sure that there is a gap of 580-590 mm between the planks. Then the mineral mat will become a surprise, and you do not need to fix it with anything else.

I perform cutting of mineral mats.
As I already said, if you correctly calculated the distance and installed the first row of battens, the trimming will have to be performed either along the length or in the area of the window and doorways(well, at the corners of the house).
As a result, you not only make your work easier, but also reduce the number of scraps, that is, the insulation will be spent more rationally. For cutting basalt wool, you can use a sharp locksmith's knife or saw with fine teeth.

I install the slabs of the first row of cladding.
Everything is simple here - you need to lean the slab against the intended place for it and with a slight effort press it between the crate guides. Mats have elasticity, therefore, after mechanical action, they take their original shape and are firmly fixed between the crate.

I fasten the second row of the crate. To avoid the formation of cold bridges and increase the strength of the insulating cake, this time the wooden blocks are placed horizontally.

It is easier to fix them in this case. You don't need to drill into the wall. It is enough to make a hole with a recess (countersink the bar), and then screw the screw through it directly into the beam of the first lathing.

I install the second layer thermal insulation mats.

You need to act according to the same system as with the first row. Thanks to two layers of insulation, the required thickness of the insulation layer (10 cm) is achieved and heat loss through the seams is excluded.

I fix the waterproofing membrane on the crate. For this I use special film produced by TechnoNICOL, which prevents mineral mats from getting wet and prevents their gradual destruction from the wind blowing in the gap (more on that later).

The membrane is fixed horizontally and fixed on wooden blocks insulation frame using a construction stapler and staples. You can also use wide-headed carnations.

In this case, it is very important to properly equip the seams.... To ensure the required tightness of the waterproofing layer, when installing the next sheet of film, overlap by a distance of about 10 cm and fix the joint with tape.

For these purposes, I use double-sided adhesive tape, which is located inside the seam. How to glue it is clear from the photo.

Installation of decorative cladding

As external cladding I will perform vinyl siding mounted on a galvanized profile. The scheme of work for its installation is as follows:

I mount U-shaped aluminum perforated parts on a wooden lathing of insulation to fix the profile.
The brackets are simply attached to wooden parts with self-tapping screws directly through the waterproofing membrane. Then you need to bend the bracket petals at an angle of 90 degrees to the wall. Galvanized profiles will be screwed to them.
You need to fasten the brackets so that maximum distance between them horizontally was equal to 30 cm, otherwise the vinyl siding after installation will bend under load and may burst from impact.

Install siding support profiles.
They are screwed to the brackets with self-tapping screws. If the walls initially had a significant vertical drop, then at this stage you can additionally align them. More precisely, install the profiles strictly vertically so that the siding itself is also attached exactly.
To do this, you just need to screw the screws into a suitable hole, making sure that the installation is correct using a water level.

In this case, the distance between the decorative material (siding) and the waterproofing film is very important.... The lathing should be 3-5 cm from the membrane to form ventilation gap through which moisture accumulated inside will be removed to the outside. If you used metal brackets for fastening, then it will not be difficult to make a gap.

I fix the necessary fittings for installing the siding.
This is the start profile, connecting parts, corners and so on. As in all other cases, you need to fix the parts on aluminum rails using small self-tapping screws.

Installing siding.
You need to start work from the bottom of the house, inserting the first lamella into the starting profile fixed there. The part itself is fixed to the crate with self-tapping screws. They should not be wrapped too tightly to compensate for possible thermal expansion of the finish.

Summary

The above instruction describes the technology in detail. external insulation... If you are still interested in how to do it from the inside with your own hands, you can watch the video in this article, which outlines the required sequence of actions.

And I wanted to ask the readers how inside the apartment in multi-storey building do you carry out insulation? What technologies do you use for this? What do you think, the better to protect reinforced concrete enclosing walls from the inside? Place your answers in the comments to this material.

September 3, 2016

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