Do-it-yourself models of wooden ships. Drawings of plywood ships: materials, preparation for work, cutting and assembly of parts, finishing

Assembling a ship model can be interesting not only for avid ship modelers, but also for beginners. Collecting a wooden model, you will learn a lot about the construction of ships, enjoy seeing how a set of wooden blanks turns into a real sailboat. For a pleasant build, we recommend starting with the simplest models. Call us - we will be happy to help you with the choice.

Each wooden ship is unique and often carries a piece of history. We have colonial ships, fishing vessels, and majestic warships - for every taste and color. We offer quality models at low prices - these are foreign models of the brands Mamoli, Corel, Mantua, Amati, Artesania Latina, Billing Boats, Constructo, and ships for assembly from Russian manufacturers - Master Ship, Falconet, LS Model.

What's inside?

Each kit contains materials, drawings and instructions - in general, everything you need to assemble a model of a wooden ship. On the other hand, tools, as a rule, are not included in the kit - this allows you to save money for those who already have tools. For everyone else, our store offers a wide variety of modeling tools. Usually, everything that needs to be purchased to assemble a model "from scratch", we indicate in the subsection "related products" on the product page.

In modeling, plywood is the most demanded material. This is due to high quality indicators, as well as ease of operation. Plywood sheets are very easy to cut, quite simple to process. Using a suitable scheme (drawing), you can make ships out of plywood with your own hands.

Plywood is a versatile material that can be easily cut and processed in various ways, so it is with plywood patterns that it is recommended to start your acquaintance with modeling.

Building a ship yourself is a pretty interesting experience. But in order to start performing complex models, you need to practice on the lighter ones.

Materials and tools

To create stucco patterns on board the ship, you need to prepare your own composition, from which you can form reliefs. The following tools and materials must be prepared for the solution:

wood dust;
PVA glue (on average, one ship model can take about half a liter of glue);
plasticine for creating small irregularities and patterns;

Materials and tools used during ship simulation:

Birch plywood will provide a minimum amount of chips when sawing.

plywood of the required thickness;
Super glue;
sandpaper for surface treatment;
nylon thread;
jigsaw for cutting out parts;
construction knife;
wood for the mast. It is better to use pine, as it is much easier to process;
dye;
small brushes;
Chinese sticks;
sail fabric;
a thread;
pencil ruler.

Modeling wood should be soft, not fibrous. The most popular options are cedar, linden, walnut. All wooden blanks must be perfectly flat, without knots and damage. It can be used as an additional element to create decorative pieces. Also, wood can be used to create the main elements of the model, such as the deck, hull.

Plywood in modeling is the most demanded material. In such a direction as modeling, birch or balsa plywood is most often used. This is due to the fact that these types of wood practically do not chip during sawing. To make a boat out of plywood, you need to use sheets with a thickness of 0.8-2 mm.

A simple diagram of a plywood ship model.

Veneer - sheet material, very thin, made of valuable wood species. In most cases, veneer is used as a facing material. They are pasted over products that are made of inexpensive material.

Fasteners will perform not only the main task of fastening parts, but also perform a decorative role. To create a model of a boat, you need to prepare thin chains (several sizes can be used), laces, threads, copper or brass nails. In order to transfer the drawing from the sheet to the plywood, it is best to use tracing paper and a pencil. This will make the drawing detailed. It is necessary to use glue to fasten the plywood parts together. Fine detailing can be made by metal casting, use polymer clay, or independently prepare a solution from wood dust and PVA glue. After complete drying, such a mass is very durable and can be painted in the desired color.

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Preparatory work

If a ship made of plywood is being modeled for the first time, it is recommended to purchase kits in which all the parts have already been cut and processed. But its cost can sometimes be quite high. Therefore, with a great desire and diligence, experience can be gained in the process of carrying out work on assembling your ship. Modeling, like other kind of work, necessarily begins with the preparatory stage. The first thing to start with is what kind of ship will be modeled. To begin with, it is worth looking at the various drawings and finished works, this will greatly facilitate the choice of the model.

After examining the entire drawing, it is worth checking the availability of all the necessary materials and tools to complete the work. Modeling ships is a jewel case. It takes a lot of time and perseverance.

At the preparatory stage, it is necessary to make paper or cardboard templates for all parts. After that, they are all transferred to plywood. At this stage, the preparatory stage of work can be considered completed.

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Manufacturing of parts

In order to make all the parts, cut them out of the plywood sheet, you must use the appropriate tool. You can use a hand jigsaw for work, but if possible, it is better to use an electric model option. The use of the second option will significantly reduce the time for the manufacture of all elements. This is especially true for the smallest details.

The sawn workpieces are processed with a file, removing chips and burrs.

In order to cut out the part, a hole is made in the plywood, into which the jigsaw file is located. It is worth cutting out all the details very carefully, while observing all the contour boundaries, since inaccurately cut details can then spoil the appearance of the entire ship. Each sawn-off workpiece must be filed from the ends. In the process of such stripping, it is necessary to remove a small part of the chamfer, where chips and burrs have formed. When cutting, this moment cannot be avoided.

You need to assemble the ship when all the parts are cut out and the ends are processed. This will allow you to do assembly work without being distracted by cutting out missing parts.

The element of water at all times attracted desperate travelers, brave sailors and fearless pirates. Sailing on the waves and watching new horizons open up in front of you, this is the most amazing thing that can be in life. In order to go sailing, you need to build a ship with your own hands. Let it not be as huge as the Titanic, the main thing is that you created it yourself.

Everyone probably has (or had) a favorite thing to do, to which it is not a pity to devote free time. Someone has a collection of stamps, someone is engaged in photography, someone loves to cook, knit, draw, ... and so on, you can't list everything.
One of my favorite things, or simply a hobby, are. This news is dedicated to them.

After that, you can leave the "skeleton" to dry and start covering the deck.
Everything is not as simple as it seems from the outside - the covering boards must be laid in a certain pattern. You can, of course, just lay long planks, but it will look quite rough ...

After that, the decks (or deck, if it is one) are put in their place and the first hull begins. Usually the ship model is covered two times - the first skin is rough, it is made of very soft wood.
One by one, the planks are attached to the "skeleton" with glue and small nails, which will come off when the glue dries.

The work is delicate, the planks are not always easy to bend and may break.

After painstaking work, the entire body is covered with the first layer!

Now you need to close the gaps between the planks and sand it properly.

Then you can proceed to the front paneling. You need to be extremely careful with it - the slats are much thinner than the rough ones and break easily.

The technology is the same - glue and carnations.

Can you imagine the amount of work (the ship in the photo, Victory, 1300 mm long.) ...

I described the assembly of the HMS Victory model in 17 reviews, everyone who wants to read is welcome!

And this is a model of, probably, the most famous ship in the world - "Santa Maria" (in the process of assembly, of course).

After the second paneling is finished and sanded, you can varnish everything. And then we will deal with the deck - ladders, boats, hatches, ...
Almost all parts are made of wood and brass. There is no plastic in principle.

Exterior detailing is equally important.
Well, after the hull is finished, we proceed to the rigging.
But before that you need to install masts and yards.

Each knot is tied by hand (those same sea knots :-).
And these knots are simply uncountable!
The sails must be pre-flashed. At Santa Maria they still had to be painted.

If the set does not include a stand, then here you can give free rein to your imagination.
For example, I made a stand for Santa Maria from a piece of oak parquet.

And only when the very last knot is tied, the ship can be considered ready!
You can proudly put it on the most prominent and enthusiastic "Wow!" guests, looking down, say "Yes, I did it myself ...".

Wooden ships and sailboats

For many, prefab ship models are more than just a hobby and fun. This is, first of all, an opportunity for self-expression, a way to realize your talents and, at the same time, to distract yourself and indulge in dreams. Regardless of whether it is a combat ship, a modern yacht, or a military galleon - each ship embodies all the power and splendor of the sea.
Desktop wooden ships have excellent decorative qualities, it is impossible not to admire them. Therefore, wooden ship models always become a worthy decoration of any room, be it a study or a home living room.

To work on each ship model, you will need enviable patience and accuracy. But, the result of painstaking work is the assembled model, which will become a well-deserved object of your pride.

Wooden ship models for beginners

CONSTRUCTO
Universal ship series: 80620 1/85 St. Helena
Article: CNSB0620 80620 1/85 St. Helena
The two-masted schooner St. The Helena was launched in 1814 and served as a link between England and its eastern colonies. This set is a 1/85 scale replica of a schooner and is recommended for modelers with little experience.

Universal ship series: 80618 1/135 Bluenose II
Part number: CNSB6118 80618 1/135 Bluenose II
Wooden model of the ship, fishing schooner Bluenose II. Launched in 1921 in Nova Scotia. This fishing schooner has become famous after numerous victories in classic races. Recommended for novice modelers.

Universal ship series: 80615 1/100 Flyer
Article: CNSB6115 80615 1/100 Flyer

Wooden model of a pilot ship in 1/100 scale, Flyer. This American merchant ship, which was renowned for its speed characteristics, was converted into a battleship, and then used as a coast guard ship during the American Revolution and the War of 1812. This is a kit of a universal series from Constructo, quite easy to assemble and recommended for novice modelers.

Universal ship series: 80616 1/100 Union
Part number: CNSB6116 80616 1/100 Union
Model of the brigantine Union, a two-masted sailing ship with square sails. Such ships were very common during the 18-19 centuries, they were used as merchant or light warships, and also served as coast guard ships at a short distance from the coast. The model is recommended for novice modelers.

Universal ship series: 80702 1/55 Albatros Sailing Ship
Reference: CNSB0702 80702 1/55 Albatros Sailing Ship

Albatros is a model of a sailing ship built in 1899 on the stocks of Holland, also known as the Clipper of the North Sea, one of the oldest sailing ships still sailing, one of the main advantages of which is the ability to stay at sea in extremely adverse weather conditions.

Universal ship series: 80703 1/80 Carmen Spanish Sailing Ship
Reference: CNSB0703 80703 1/80 Carmen Spanish Sailing Ship
Model of a sailing ship, a reproduction of the Spanish frigate The Carmen, built in 1861. Recommended for modelers with little experience.

ARTESANIA LATINA
Universal ship series: 20145 1/35 Bremen Krabben Kutter
Reference: LATB2145 20145 1/35 Bremen Krabben Kutter

The first shrimp fishing vessel appeared in 1898 and was virtually intended to operate in the North Sea, these vessels eventually began to be equipped with 8-10 strong engines and were about 10 meters in length. Bremen Krabben Kutter, a small shrimp fishing vessel built in 1953 in a small shipyard in Germany.

Universal ship series: 22299 1/80 J.S. Elcano w / ABS Hull & Tools
Article: LATB2299 22299 1/80 J.S. Elcano w / ABS Hull & Tools
J.S. Elcano, replica of the Spanish naval academy four-masted training vessel launched at Cadiz on March 5, 1927.

Universal ship series: 19004 1/25 Bounty Jolly
Reference: LATB1904 19004 1/25 Bounty Jolly

A wooden replica of a 1/25 scale model of a boat, Bounty Jolly, from the notorious historic ship HMS Bounty, which became famous for the feat of people who covered a distance of 3,600 miles on three small ships across the ocean.

Universal ship series: 22400 1/35 Mare Nostrum Fishing Trawler w / Tools
Code: LATB2400 22400 1/35 Mare Nostrum Fishing Trawler w / Tools
The Latina Mare Nostrum is a 1:35 scale entirely wooden replica of a typical Mediterranean fishing trawler, built in the harbor of the Spanish city of Arenys de Mar. Trawler assembly kit complete with tools.

Universal ship series: 22170 1/50 Marie Jeanne
Reference: LATB2034 22170 1/50 Marie Jeanne

Universal Ship Series: 22445 1/35 Bremen Fishing Cutter w / Tools
Code: LATB2445 22445 1/35 Bremen Fishing Cutter w / Tools

Large-scale replica of the Bremen Krabben Kutter shrimp fishing vessel, a small vessel built in 1953 in a small shipyard in Germany. A set for assembling a ship with tools.

You can create a model of an old ship yourself, without buying a ready-made structure for assembly. To get a high-quality result, you will have to show a lot of patience and perseverance.

Materials (edit)

To make a historic ship with your own hands, prepare:

plywood or cork;
thin strips of wood, bamboo or rattan;
joiner's glue;
paper;
pencil.

In this model of the ship, not plywood, but cork was used as the basis. The choice was due to the simplicity of working with the material. Unlike plywood, which requires a saw for pruning, cork was done with a simple, sharp knife. You can also take thin strips for work from any material, they just have to bend well. Do not replace wood glue with hot or super glue.

Step 1... On paper, you need to draw the main details of the future ship. You can also print them if you find suitable layouts on the Internet. Keep in mind that your ideas may undergo slight changes as you work. This is not critical if you just want to build a ship in the old style, and not replicate an exact replica of a particular ship.

Step 2... For convenience, work with the ship was divided into several parts. The ship itself was also going. Most of the time was spent on the manufacture of the central part of the ship. Then the front, rear and deck parts with the mast were made.

Step 3... First of all, using the sketches already available, make the skeleton of the ship. Be sure to make sure that all of its edges are symmetrical. If there is a slight deviation somewhere, correct these flaws. Check that the ribs are exactly at a 90 degree angle when attaching.

Step 4... After the skeleton is ready, start styling its sides. To do this, glue a long strip along the center line of the side part. Focus on it further when you glue the rest. It is better to glue the reiki in stages to make your work easier. Apply enough glue, but make sure it does not drip down the slats. Attach the slats additionally with clamps, leaving them in this form until the glue dries completely. After the glue has dried, remove the clamps and continue to glue the strips in the next section.

Step 5... All places where gaps are formed between the battens, work with epoxy. Cover all parts of the ship with wood varnish as soon as it is ready.

Step 6... After the main work, proceed to finishing. You can hide all possible aesthetic flaws at this stage. To do this, carefully glue the slats that hide them over the places with obvious defects. From rattan, you can make a horizontal line that emphasizes the flowing shapes of the ship. The base of the ship is ready.

Step 7... The masts should be made from wooden rods and small flat pieces of wood. The ship will have two masts. Adjust the rods to the calculated dimensions in advance. To secure the masts, cut two 4 x 2 cm pieces of wood. Drill holes in them for the mast rods. Make a reinforcing lattice from small rods and assemble the entire structure completely.

Step 8... Make a template for the ship's deck out of paper and use it to construct the deck section from wooden strips. After letting it dry thoroughly, drill the holes for attaching the masts. Insert and glue the masts. Use plywood to make the side rails of the ship.

Step 9... Glue the wood strips to the front and back of the ship in the same way. They need to be glued to the side and in the deck part, and from pieces of plywood to make rods and handrails. All parts are fastened with wood glue. Do not forget to step up the rear of the ship.

Frigate Scarlet Sails

Step-by-step instruction

making

CHINESE JONK

CHINESE JONK
So we got to the most important part of the site.
I will give you approximate dimensions,
since I did the ship by eye and did not pay much attention to the dimensions. I didn't write them down exactly, but there are some. I will not torment you with nautical terms, because I myself am not strong in them, but I will write in a public language. Well, you know the basic terms, such as deck, mast, yard, keel. Here we will begin our work with the keel. But first, we will do some preparatory work. We take a sheet of veneer, lay it on some kind of plywood or board, and smear it well with glue. We fix it with buttons so that the sheet does not curl up when it dries. We proceed to the keel, length 45 cm
the height of the front part is 12 cm, the back is 8 cm. If the dimensions in height are more than anything terrible, the excess can always be cut off. After the keel has been cut out, we will sand it a little. Remove the gloss, and if there is a texture coating, remove it completely.
Spread with glue on one side and leave to dry. You can spread on two, whichever is more convenient for you. While everything dries, we mark the edges of the ship. We make one blank template. The width of the rib is 16 cm, the height is 6 cm. The depth of the slot for inserting the keel is 1.5 - 2 cm. The width of the slot is equal to the thickness of the veneered keel. Next, we proceed to veneering the keel. Who doesn't know how it's done
I'm telling you. Veneer mode on strips slightly larger than the keel width. We turn on the iron at full power, but so that the veneer does not burn during veneering. We put the veneer on the keel and iron it with an iron until it is completely glued. We cut off the excess veneer and clean it with sandpaper stuffed onto a block.
After the keel has been veneered, we will make the deck and we will make the rest of the ribs of the ship. The length of the deck is 45 cm, the width is 16 cm. We measure 15 cm on one side, this will be the beginning of the curvature of the bow. We measure 11 cm from the back, this will also be the beginning of the rounding. The width of the rear part of the deck is 4.5 cm. Photo 5 shows the deck. Now we start to mess with the rest of the ribs. Since our keel is curved from the inside, the height of the ribs will naturally change in relation to the inside of the keel to the deck. I will try to explain how best to do this. Myself
I understood only when I made the fifth ship. And so let's get started. We put the keel on a piece of fiberboard as shown in photo 1. From the front, mark 8 cm also from the back. And we draw stripes on the keel. It should look something like this,
the back side is 8 cm, the front side is 5 cm. On the front part of the keel we make a step for supporting the deck (photo 5). Next, we try on the deck, cut off the excess, and turn it over to the top with the keel. Find the lowest point between the keel and deck and place the first rib. Immediately make marks on the keel and on the deck where you place the ribs. We make the next edge. It will be positioned at the start of the curved front of the deck.
The width of the rib is 16 cm. We measure the height from deck to keel, taking into account the slot. Example. The width of the rib is 14 cm. The height from the inside of the keel to the deck is 3 cm + the depth of the slot is 2 cm and that is 5 cm. Next, we take the first blank template. We lay on the rectangle of the future edge, combining the upper part and the upper right corner. We outline along the contour. We do the same with the left corner. The height of the workpiece will change but the basic configuration of the rib
will remain. We also make the back part and one rib between them. After that we make the ribs of the nose of the model. The approximate distance between the ribs is 3 cm. The same is the case from the back. After the ribs are ready and adjusted, we glue them, let them fix and glue the deck.
When all this is done, we make inserts between the edges along the entire perimeter. Next, we clean everything and make bevels on the ribs from the bow and rear of the ship. After that, cut a piece from the veneer sheet to the size of the central part of the ship, coat it with glue, let it dry a little and glue it with an iron. We proceed to the most laborious work: fanning the bottom of the ship in strips. I have them
the width is 6 mm. We take the prepared veneer sheet and cut it. After the strips have been cut, it is necessary to process the edges, clean out burrs and small irregularities. Glue stripes in the central part
ship one to one to the bow and to the rear of the ship overlap. Pre-smear with fresh glue at the bonding site. Here's what we got. Now we will clean everything up and start making additional decks. The front part of the deck starts from the beginning of the rounding and protrudes by 3 cm. The width of the bow part is 9 cm. The width of the part from the rounding is 16.6 cm. After gluing, it will be processed, rounded and will be equal to the width of the main deck.
The rear part also starts from the rounding, it is leveled 16.6 cm, protrudes by 4 cm. The width of the rear part is 9.5 cm.
We glue the front part of the deck first. Then we fan it. After that, we will veneer the main deck until the start of the rounding and installation of the rear part of the additional deck. Next, glue the back part. It does not need to be veneered as it is covered by deck superstructures. The decks were glued, rounded, and we proceed to making the sides of the rear of the model. We cut off two strips 4 cm wide. You will determine the length yourself. Start from the rounding point. The rear of the side has a deployed
an angle of 105 degrees. After the strips have been cut out, we make cuts on them in the place where they will be
bend along the contour of the deck and smear with glue. The glue has dried and begin to veneer. Cut off two veneer strips in width and glue them with an iron, while bending them along the contour of the deck. The side boards were made, but since they should be deployed, we carefully grind them at an angle, trying them on to the deck. Then we glue them. It will not be difficult for you to make the rear part of the side. Next, go to
deck superstructure rear of the model. The photo shows how it looks. The superstructure deck configuration must be solid. A small explanation for the photo. Side
platforms should be 1.5 cm longer towards the back of the model. After the deck is made, we make an insert with windows and other inserts in the openings for the stairs. When we have all the inserts ready and fitted, we glue them to the deck and then glue the deck itself. The deck was glued and then we fan it. Next, we make the following sides of the deck superstructure and an insert with windows. The rear of the sides will no longer be deployed, but at a right angle. After the last deck is made, glued and veneered, we do
trailing boards. With the rear deck superstructure finished, go to the bow of the model. We also make the front sides with
a deployed angle of 115 degrees. They also start from the beginning of the additional deck. The boards were installed and glued. We proceed to making an insert with windows and an upper platform. The dimensions of the upper platform. Length 15 cm, (excluding the balcony) width of the front part is 12 cm. It protrudes by 6 cm. The rear part of the platform is slightly wider than the sides by about 7-8 mm on each side. After we have made a platform and an insert with windows, we glue them. Then we will fan the site. Next, we make the sides of the central part of the model. Cut off 2 strips, fan them from the inside, mark
cannon ports and cut through them. The size of the port is 1.5 cm by 1.5 cm. The gap between the ports is also 1.5 cm. The ports are 5-6 mm higher than the deck level.
With the sides finished, we proceed to veneering the outer part of the ship. After veneering the ship, we make ladders. With the ladders finished, go to the railing. Strip mode with a width of 4 mm. We veneer them on three sides, glue them stepping back from the edge of 1 mm, sawing them down. Next, we mark them and drill holes for installing pilasters under the railings themselves. After that, we make the railing ourselves. The same strip mode but we only fan the edges. A little trick. The photo shows that the corner pilasters are slightly taller than the others. This is so that it would be more convenient to mark up.
We drilled a hole, tried it on on the pilaster, marked the rest of the points for the pilasters. After all the railings have been installed. Cut off excess, clean and
fanning. We do the same in the bow of the ship. Next, we veneer the edges of the sides of the ship and clean the entire ship. Moving on to marking and installing masts. The length of the masts is at your discretion. The diameter of the mast at the bottom is 10-12 mm. At the top 4-5 mm. So that you can drill a hole for installing a flagpole from a toothpick. The ship is completely ready and we are starting to stain it. We fix those parts that you see fit. We finished with the stain. We make 2 additional fastenings for the ropes (photo 24) and two blocks for raising the sails (photo 25). All that remains is to varnish the model, make the sails, and then install them. For the sails, we need material, a sheet of whatman paper for the pattern, wooden round skewers and the nearest workshop for sewing and repairing clothes. I hope you can handle the fabrication and installation of the sails.