Thermal insulation of walls made of gas silicate blocks from the outside. Thermal insulation of a house from gas silicate blocks

If you insulate the house from gas silicate blocks from the outside, then you can achieve a very good effect in terms of saving on heating the room. It is not a complicated and not too expensive process that will help you save good money on heating.

Gas silicate blocks: what are they?

Gas silicate blocks are one of the new building materials for the construction of walls. It is distinguished by high heat and sound insulation, lightness and large size. They also have a low price. But many companies inflate prices both for them and for their masonry, so always find out the prices in different sources, and, when hiring workers, the prices for masonry of gas silicate blocks. These allow you to quickly build energy-efficient buildings, but they are not very durable.

Why insulate a house from gas silicate blocks from the outside?

Many people ask the question: "Why insulate such a house if it will be warm anyway?" The goal is not only to increase heat savings, but also to provide special protection for gas silicate blocks, which will significantly extend the life of your home.

Gas silicate blocks have low moisture resistance. They absorb it into themselves and, when frozen, can form microcracks, which reduce their efficiency and strength. On average, this material is rated for 200 freeze cycles. During the winter, with unstable weather, more than 20 such cycles can pass, which means that the walls will last you about 10 years. Insulating the outside using materials that absorb moisture helps to avoid these very processes, which will significantly extend the life of the house.

How to insulate a house from gas silicate blocks from the outside?

It is best to insulate such buildings in two layers. The first is an insulating material that is capable of absorbing moisture, and the second is an outer material that can withstand atmospheric influences.

As an insulating material the best option is the use of isover. Isover is a modernized glass wool, which consists of organic fibers, which, in turn, are capable of releasing and absorbing moisture in significant quantities. Its peculiarity is that moisture is retained strongly enough, so that adjacent surfaces remain practically dry.

Superintendent's advice: some suggest using polystyrene as insulation. This option is not bad, but it is not suitable for such buildings, since the foam does not absorb moisture, but, on the contrary, can lead to its accumulation, which will only contribute to the acceleration of the process of destruction of blocks.

A wide variety of materials can act as a second layer, all that are suitable for outdoor use. These can be plastic panels, wood or special boards made from complex polymers. The choice is always up to the consumer. It all depends on the desire and financial ability.

One common option is to use plastic panels... They have a relatively low cost and look beautiful. There are a large number of colors, which allows you to decorate the outside of the house to the taste of any person.

Superintendent's advice: You can save money on exterior cladding, but in no case should you save on isover, because the effect of insulation and protection of your walls will depend on it.

The insulation process is as follows:

1. Creation of a frame outside the house - a frame is made to fix the insulation and plastic panels.
2. Strengthening the insulation in the frame - it is fixed so that it fits snugly against the wall of the house and does not have cracks and gaps. Thus, the ingress of moisture on the wall is almost completely eliminated and the amount of condensate that forms on the walls during temperature drops is minimized.
3. Sewing the frame with an outer material - is carried out so that there are no holes and gaps, which provides additional protection and simply provides a beautiful view.

Some materials for the top layer of insulation require additional finishing. Accordingly, you will need to choose the type exterior decoration to complete.

How much will insulation at home save?

If a house made of gas silicate blocks is 20-25% more economical than ordinary houses, then a house whose walls are insulated from the outside gives savings of up to 40%.

Such a house with insulation will help you to reduce heating costs by almost 2 times, which is a pretty good indicator today.

How much does such house insulation cost?

The cost of home insulation will depend on the choice of materials. When choosing materials, it is worth comparing materials in terms of efficiency in terms of thermal insulation, comparing prices in various stores and on the Internet, because the price of different suppliers can vary up to 20%.

No matter how much it costs you to insulate your home, these are all small things compared to how much this home improvement will help you save.

In two programs from the Build! Ka (Build) cycle, expert Andrei Kuryshev shared information on the construction of houses from gas silicate blocks. This material will be very useful, especially if you plan to build walls of gas silicate with your own hands. Andrey Kuryshev talks about the following:

• Layout of a house made of gas silicate blocks. Do I need to insulate the house from gas silicate?


• Construction of a gas silicate house. Gas silicate masonry. Gas silicate adhesive.


• Thermal insulation of a house from gas silicate


• Interior partitions in a house made of gas silicate blocks


• Roof in a house made of gas silicate blocks


• Plastering of walls from gas silicate blocks. Ventilated facade.


• The use of floor slabs in a house made of gas silicate blocks


• Gas silicate and moisture


• Gas silicate characteristics

Build! Ka: Construction before winter

Construction: Gas silicate house. We competently build and insulate a house from gas silicate blocks.
House made of gas silicate, laid on glue. Internal walls are made of bricks. House with displacement levels. Insulation of the foundation, foundation slab, blind areas with plates of extruded polystyrene foam. How and why to separate the tree in the roof from the stone.

Build! Ka: The truth about gas silicate

What is gas silicate. What are its properties. Than to cover the gas silicate wall outside and inside to avoid moisture and related problems. Is it worth using gas silicate in conjunction with insulation?

Layout of a house made of gas silicate blocks. Do I need to insulate the house from gas silicate?
Large multi-level house. The enclosing structures are made of YTONG gas silicate blocks, and the internal walls are made of ordinary sand-lime brick... At first glance, the building does not seem large. It's hard to believe that there are 4 levels here. This type of architecture allows the most ergonomic use of the living space.

Four levels are very good. One flight passed and already a room. And in ordinary house you need to pass two marches or curved stairs.

In the basement, the ground floor is residential. It is insulated with extruded polystyrene foam around the perimeter. Foundation walls are made of blocks. Heating is carried out here. Hacked small windows... All work on this site is carried out by only three builders.

Construction of a gas silicate house. Gas silicate masonry. Gas silicate adhesive.
How the work was carried out: We marked the site, tied the pit to the site, dug a pit, poured the slab, laid out the foundation with FBS blocks, laid the walls with gas silicate (YTONG technology - seamless glue-based connection), laid floor slabs and a roof.

Building such a house was not difficult. These builders worked with gas silicate blocks and, in general, gas silicate for the first time. Gas silicate blocks were laid on glue. I have a positive attitude to this technology. Previously, the dimensions were not exactly maintained, they jumped up to 5-10 mm, so there was no way to lay it flat on the glue. And now the laying of gas silicate blocks on glue turns out to be economical and quick. The house took 80 bags of glue. Taking into account sand and cement, concrete would be more expensive (Note: The question remains about the environmental friendliness of the glue!) In addition, I think that cold bridges are excluded (unlike concrete mortar).

Gas silicate blocks are used in two sizes. Regular blocks are 25 cm high, and above the window opening 10 cm high.

Thermal insulation of a house from gas silicate
The wall is made of gas silicate 50 cm, there will be no additional insulation. Gas silicate here performs a load-bearing and heat-insulating function. If this is translated into a brick, then by thermal insulation properties it will probably be even more than a meter. The foundation and the slab below were insulated with extruded polystyrene foam. The blind area of ​​120 mm will also be expanded polystyrene. The blind area serves as insulation, and also allows the house to look more harmonious (a house without a blind area looks awkward). Theoretically, the thermo-blind should be done everywhere so that the cold does not get to the foundation. On heaving soils this is definitely needed. And on sandy ones it is possible and not necessary.

Gas silicate walls, in addition to opaque plasters, are afraid of opaque insulation materials, such as, in particular. When you wrap a house around it, you seem to wrap it in plastic wrap... If plasters have at least some vapor transparency, then EPSS is completely devoid of these properties.
If you insulate a gas silicate wall with extruded polystyrene foam, an even more catastrophic situation will begin to occur. If the plaster and paint still have at least some vapor transparency, albeit insufficient, then extrusion polystyrene (EPS) does not have any vapor transparency at all. At a certain time in winter, moisture and condensate will certainly form at the junction of expanded polystyrene and gas silicate.

At my forum they wrote that they insulate houses in Siberia with foam plastic, after 5 years they remove it, and the whole wall is black from mold and black slurry. They are etched with chlorine and other expensive anti-mold agents, and then plastered again.

Houses from gas silicate blocks should be built only from them! No insulation. You can lay down a little on the thickness of the block. If the manufacturer recommends a block of 40 cm for our climate, build from 50 cm. Then you lay down on additional moisture that may be during operation.

A vapor barrier is also used for the roof. The vapor barrier does not allow steam to pass through. Then comes the insulation between the rafters, and on top - waterproofing. The latter allows steam to pass from itself, but does not allow moisture from the roof to pass from above. This allows moisture to roll off the roof. Mineral basalt wool is used as a heater (Note: The roof can leak, so the use of mineral wool in the under-roof space does not make sense. mineral wool when exposed to moisture, it significantly loses its properties).

Interior partitions in a house made of gas silicate blocks
The interior partitions are lined with white sand-lime bricks. Sound insulation between rooms is much better than, say, from the same foam or foam block. You knock on such a brick, the sound is dull. And when you knock on, you can hear it all over the house. The walls are mostly load-bearing, not a little load-bearing. In addition, the exhaust shafts are lined with the same brick (Note: Plus, the high heat capacity of such walls allows you to store heat in winter, cold in summer).

Roof in a house made of gas silicate blocks
Ridge seal (shows a tape similar to foam). The roof will be ventilated on the ridge. To prevent midges from flying, this material is used. It will fit well and act as a filter. There will also be a mesh near the rafters (for a ventilated gap).

The usual roofing felt was used as waterproofing. The metal parts were waterproofed to the wood. Previously, our grandfathers made wooden nails from oak. They drilled and hammered them.

Wooden beams for the roof. Sheathing boards, rafter system... Used by ordinary tree(pine, spruce). The tree is impregnated with a fire-bioprotective compound. The powder is soluble in water. The tree can be soaked, it can be well processed with a brush, spray gun.

The roof in this house is made using classical technology. roofing construction... The tree here is separated from the stone base by roofing felt. In the program "" Andrey Kuryshev explained why and how to properly separate wood from stone.

Plastering of walls from gas silicate blocks. Ventilated facade.
Building plaster CT 29, to pass the seams (caulk). They pass with this repair compound after laying.

A mesh is used to putty the facade. There will be decorative tiles up to the window.

As befits a gas silicate, it is laid on a thin adhesive seam, plastered from the inside. The thermal properties of gas silicate are not bad, but they are very dependent on humidity. We have a wall made of gas silicate blocks. The main danger in a house made of such blocks is a change in the humidity regime in the house in winter. At home during this period it is warm, let's say +20 degrees. The warm air at home contains about 20 grams of steam per 1 m3 of air at a humidity of 50-60%. On the street, at -20 degrees and humidity 50-60%, water vapor in 1 m3 of air contains about 2 grams. At the same time, the steam tries to move from there, where there is a lot of it, to where there is little of it. This is called the vapor permeation pressure. The task is to create a barrier inside the room so that this vapor enters the wall as little as possible. For this, the room inside is plastered. We see wet spots on the walls. The walls have just been primed. The soil binds the dust on the wall. Without soil, the wall is very dusty, so the putty can fall off. Also, the soil improves the vapor permeability properties. Primer is an adhesive solution that prevents moisture penetration. Then this wall will be plastered off, painted or pasted over with wallpaper. Better to do inner wall as less vapor permeable as possible. To do this, you can glue vinyl wallpapers, paint with paint that does not conduct moisture well. Bathrooms and toilets are tiled. Those. create as many obstacles as possible for moisture. Normal house must have ventilation, with the help of which moisture will escape.

If the steam enters the wall, and it enters anyway, then with outside the possibility of unimpeded access to the outside must be ensured. If the outer layer is less vapor-proof than the inner one, then the steam will go inside, reach outer wall... The last winter is cold, there is a point in this wall called the dew point. It depends on the temperature inside the wall and on the humidity in it. A big mistake is to plaster the gas silicate house outside with cement hard plaster and paint it with some kind of vapor-proof paint. Then we will lock the wall from moisture.

I saw a sauna, which was not vapor-insulated from the inside, but was simply insulated. The house was plastered with hard plaster and painted with good paint, which was visible to be connected to the surface. For several years, under the layer of plaster, the gas silicate cracked. Moisture accumulated near the outside of the wall. She froze and expanded the gas silicate. By tapping on the plaster, you could tell that it would collapse.

In general, gas silicate houses require a ventilated facade.

The ventilated facade is a steel or aluminum frame mounted directly on the facade of the building and lined with outside decorative panels.

The gas silicate remains uncovered from the outside. On the outer walls, some slats are stuffed onto which the facade is hung (boards, siding, ceramic plates, plastic, ...). Air should flow freely under the facade. Moisture should freely and unhindered go out of the uncovered wall and go out, weathered.

The use of floor slabs in a house made of gas silicate blocks
Many are afraid that gas silicate is fragile. They have been building from gas silicate for a long time. But earlier the floor was made of wood, and in this case the floor is made of floor slabs. On a cube with a side of 10x10x10 mm it became itself, there are no dents. It is also scary that the nail is hammered freely. But calculations show that everything is fine.

Gas silicate and moisture
They are afraid that gas silicate, aerated concrete will be saturated with moisture from inside... The surface itself does not take moisture. She went in and out. If you cut the block, then the inner side already takes moisture well. But there will be plaster on the inside. Outside there will also be light plaster, so if it rains, moisture will come out.

Gas silicate characteristics
Gas silicate with a low bulk density of 500 kg / m3 has a compressive strength of 20 to 40 kg / cm2 due to autoclaving, grinding of components and mechanical hardening. Gas silicate shrinkage is up to 0.47 mm per meter, foam concrete - up to 5 mm. Gas silicate is used for masonry load-bearing walls cottages up to 4 floors, wall filling of frame high-rise buildings. The permissible load for 1 meter of a 40 cm thick wall is 112 tons.
Air enclosed in uniformly formed voids cells with a diameter of 1-3 mm gives an exceptional heat-insulating and heat-accumulating effect, exceeding brick by 3-5 times. High thermophysical qualities of gas silicate allow houses to retain heat well, make the surface of the walls warm to the touch, do not require additional thermal insulation material... Due to the large number of separated voids, the house has a very good heat storage ability to cool down slowly.

Another company that produces blocks High Quality in Lipetsk, is the Lipetsk Household Products Plant (LZID). LZID organized the production of aerated concrete blocks worldwide famous brand Hebel. The enterprise has been producing small wall gas blocks since 1995. In 2004, the production line was completed with equipment for hermetic packing of blocks - finished products packed in a special shrink film that allows you to store aerated concrete blocks outdoors much longer than unpackaged ones.

Text notes on the materials of the program "

A house made of gas silicate blocks is considered one of the best in terms of thermal insulation. This is mainly due to the structure of the material, which is almost 90% air. The rest is a mixture of sand, cement, limestone and water using a specific technology. It is not always necessary to insulate a house made of aerated concrete due to the characteristics of the material, however, rather severe winter frosts prevail in the middle zone of our country.

Gas silicate houses are quite high thermal insulation characteristics, therefore, it is recommended to additionally insulate them only in regions with severe frosts.

They do not allow you to do without insulation. This is a natural process. How to insulate a house from gas silicate outside will be discussed further.

Insulation materials

Thermal insulation of a house from gas silicate blocks involves the use of a wide variety of materials. Most often, however, two varieties are used - these are mineral wool and foam. It is worth talking about the advantages and disadvantages of both technologies in more detail.

When insulating a house from gas silicate blocks with your own hands using foam, do not forget about the ease of installing this material. It can be mounted with ease, and a wide variety of tools can be used to saw it. Some use an ordinary construction knife for these purposes, and some use a hacksaw.

It all depends on the desires and capabilities of the person. At the same time, foam also has a lot of disadvantages that make this technology less in demand. The fact is that the foam has low air permeability. In this case, the main material, namely gas silicate blocks, have a higher indicator of this characteristic.

As for mineral wool, it is more acceptable as a house insulation made of gas silicate blocks. It's simple perfect option, which today has received the widest distribution. Mineral wool is excellent for air permeability and keeps it warm. This material is a little more difficult to mount, but the characteristics of the walls will always be at their best.

There are other materials that are widely used for these same purposes, but they are used much less often than those discussed above.

Back to the table of contents

Tools and materials

So, now it's worth talking about what you may need to insulate a house from gas silicate blocks with your own hands. Here you will need to acquire the following:

• insulating material, in this case we will talk about mineral wool;
• dowels;
• glue;
• perforated corners;
• container for diluting glue;
• building level;
• fiberglass mesh;
• puncher;
• putty knife.

Basically, this should be enough for the entire range of events.

Now you can go directly to the insulation of the house from gas silicate blocks. First you have to prepare carefully. The wall is cleaned of various dirt, dust, and all defects are eliminated on it. This is done in order to improve the adhesion of the mineral wool surface through the use of glue. If there are large defects on the wall, then they also need to be eliminated. This is done using plaster and primer. Only careful preparation surface will allow all the work to be carried out as efficiently as possible. At the level basement floor it is worth installing the frame.

It will serve as an additional support for the insulation. Beacons should be placed at the corners of the house. This is followed by the direct process of fixing mineral wool to the wall. First, you need to spread the surface itself and the cotton wool with glue. This will improve the properties of the materials to be fastened. During installation, it is imperative to avoid the formation of cruciform joints. Do not forget about the additional fastening of the material. For these purposes, special dowels are used. They are umbrellas. They should be placed along the perimeter of the mineral wool slab, and they can also be additionally mounted in the center.

It is worth noting the fact that mineral wool itself is soft material, which is worth further strengthening.

It is for these purposes that fiberglass mesh is used. Glue is preliminarily applied to the surface of the insulation, and then the fiberglass mesh itself is installed. An additional layer of glue is applied over the mesh.

After the process of reinforcing the insulation is completed, it is imperative to additionally insulate the corners of the building, door and window openings. This is done very simply. For these purposes, the same perforated corners that were purchased earlier are used.

Foreword... Owners country houses from this material, and those who decided to build a house from gas silicate often ask questions related to its insulation. Do I need to insulate the house from gas silicate block, if so, what is the best way to insulate a house from gas silicate with your own hands? Consider the technology of thermal insulation of a gas silicate block from the outside and from the inside and show a video instruction on this topic.

Self-insulation of the facade made of gas silicate blocks will help keep the house warm in winter, add coziness to suburban housing. According to its purpose, gas silicate is classified into structural and thermal insulation. According to the production method, the material is divided into aerated concrete, aerated concrete and aerated concrete. The cellular structure of this building material formed with gas or foam.

Is it necessary to insulate the house from gas silicate blocks

If aerated concrete was chosen for the construction of the walls, then the calculation minimum thickness walls are made on a heat engineering calculator, based on SNiP 23-01-99 of 2003 "Construction climatology" and SNiP II-3-79 of 2005 "Construction heat engineering". For middle lane Russia, on the basis of modern SNiP, walls from aerated concrete should be 640 to 1070 mm wide.

At the same time, manufacturers assure that about 300 - 400 mm will be enough for the wall of a residential building. But whether the manufacturers took into account in their calculations the heat losses through the "cold bridges" is another question. It is better to independently calculate how thick the walls are made of gas silicate based on the characteristics of thermal conductivity and density of the material, so that the house is warm and comfortable in winter.

How to insulate a house from gas silicate blocks

Gas silicate blocks, like expanded clay block, have long been used in low-rise construction. Gas silicate itself is a very good heat insulator, but due to the ability to absorb moisture, cold bridges in the masonry, it is necessary to make the walls thick enough or additionally insulate the walls of the building. An increase in wall thickness leads to an increase in costs, and you can insulate a house from gas silicate blocks yourself.

Can be used various materials for thermal insulation of gas silicate. For many years, materials such as Izorok mineral wool, foam plastic, extruded polystyrene foam and facade plastering systems... V last years wide use in Russia we received thermal panels that combine high thermal insulation characteristics and excellent appearance.

How to insulate a house from gas silicate blocks from the outside

Thermal insulation of gas silicate blocks with mineral wool

In order to independently insulate a house from a gas silicate block with mineral wool, you should make a vertical crate on the facade, into which the thermal insulation will fit. Since mineral wool and glass wool absorb moisture, the material must be protected on both sides with a waterproofing and vapor barrier. On top of the insulation, siding can be mounted on vertical guides.

To insulate a house from gas silicate outside, you should choose basalt wool with a high density. Low density material will cake and slide down over time. The distance between the guides should be made 1-1.5 cm less than the thickness of the mineral wool slab, so that the thermal insulation fits snugly into the frame. Vapor barrier film should be laid with an overlap of 15-20 cm between the sheets.

Thermal insulation of gas silicate blocks with expanded polystyrene

Photo. How to insulate gas silicate with your own hands

When insulating a house from gas silicate blocks with polystyrene or penoplex, additional vapor barrier is not required. Expanded polystyrene plates are not afraid of moisture, thermal insulation plates are attached to foam glue. Then the material is additionally attached to the wall with disc dowels. On top of the foam, you can apply plaster or sheathe the facade with siding.

When insulating a house from gas silicate outside with your own hands, keep in mind that foam plates do not withstand large mechanical loads. In addition, all seams between the boards should be sealed with polyurethane foam. Sheathe the facade with siding or plaster facade putty should not only protect the styrofoam from damage, but also to protect polyurethane foam from direct sunlight.

Thermal insulation of gas silicate blocks

Consider how to insulate a house made of gas silicate blocks with thermal panels. This material will perfectly cope with the protection of walls from moisture and mechanical damage. Thermal panels are produced with decorative trim under a natural stone, porcelain stoneware or brick. Thermal insulation of the facade has its own advantages: resistance to mechanical damage, durability and ease of installation.

To gas silicate walls properly sheathed with thermal panels, for a start, a crate made of profiles or timber is attached to the facade. Thermal panels are attached to the lathing so that ventilation gap... For self installation thermal panels, you will need a standard set of tools: a building level, a grinder, a hammer drill and a screwdriver. Check out the video from step by step instructions below.

Video. How to insulate a house from gas silicate blocks with your own hands

Aerated concrete blocks are widely used in modern construction both in our country and abroad. Despite the fact that aerated concrete has good thermal insulation qualities, walls made of this material must be insulated (in order to reduce the cost of heating the house and increase the energy-saving performance of the entire structure). Thermal insulation of aerated concrete with expanded polystyrene is very effective and inexpensive way achieving this goal.

The choice of insulation material

Experts say that it is more expedient to insulate a building made of aerated concrete from the outside than from the inside of the house: firstly, the useful area of ​​the room is not lost; secondly, there is a displacement of the "dew point" outside the aerated concrete blocks. A variety of materials are used to insulate buildings made of aerated concrete from the outside: mineral wool, extruded polystyrene foam (polystyrene foam), polyurethane foam and polystyrene foam (polystyrene foam). The most popular is expanded polystyrene, due to its low thermal conductivity, durability and low cost. This material is fireproof due to the fact that it contains anti-foam. Also, the advantages of the material include ease of processing and installation: it is easy to cut it into pieces. the desired shape and the slabs standard sizes(0.5 x 1, 1 x 1, 1 x 2 m) can be conveniently attached to aerated concrete walls. The thickness of the material (from 20 to 100 mm) allows creating a sufficient heat-insulating layer (if necessary, the panels can be folded in half). Also, to order, factories produce custom sheets expanded polystyrene up to 500 mm thick. That is, there is a large selection of finished products for insulating aerated concrete with expanded polystyrene.

Calculation of the thickness of the insulation

To determine the thickness of the thermal insulation layer, you need to make a simple calculation. We take the data for the calculation from the reference tables. SNiP-ohm standardizes the total required resistance to heat transfer for walls (Ro), depending on the region (measured in m² ° C / W). This value is the sum of the heat transfer resistances of the wall material (Rst) and the insulation layer (Rt): Ro = Rst + Rst. For example, let's choose St. Petersburg (Ro = 3.08).

Heat transfer resistance is calculated by the formula R = δ ⁄ λ, where δ is the thickness of the material (m), λ is the thermal conductivity of the material (W / m ° C). Let's say our house is built of D500 aerated concrete blocks, 300 mm thick (λ = 0.42 - we take from the reference table). Then own resistance heat transfer of the wall without thermal insulation will be Rst = 0.3 / 0.42 = 0.72, and the heat transfer resistance of the insulation layer Rout = Ro-Rst = 3.08-0.72 = 2.36. We choose lightweight polystyrene with a density of 10 kg / m2 (λ = 0.044 W / m2 ° C) as an insulating material.

The thickness of the insulating layer is calculated by the formula δ = Rut λ. The thermal conductivity coefficient of polystyrene with a density of 10 kg / m2 is λ = 0.044 W / m2 ° C.

The thickness of the insulation δ = 2.36 0.044 = 0.104 m, that is, for our house, according to the rules and regulations, standard polystyrene plates with a thickness of 10 cm are suitable.

We check our calculations for the "dew point" temperature (the formation of condensation in the wall):

It can be seen from the graphs that the condensation zone (the area of ​​coincidence of the lines of the wall temperature and the dew point temperature) is located in thermal insulation layer and even at an outdoor air temperature of -30˚С it does not reach aerated concrete. Conclusion: our thermal insulation layer is calculated correctly, that is, even with the most low temperatures aerated concrete wall will not be saturated with moisture.

Let's say you don't want to make any calculations, and you just decided to buy a material 5 cm thick. Let's see in what area the condensation zone will be with this thickness and all other things being equal. For clarity, we present the graph:

We see that moisture is formed not only in the heat-insulating layer, but also in aerated concrete. The presence of water, the thermal conductivity of which is much higher (λ≈0.6) than that of aerated concrete and expanded polystyrene, leads to a decrease in the heat-saving characteristics of the walls of the structure, that is, as a result, we get a "cold house".

Insulation of walls from aerated concrete blocks

Despite the fact that the application expanded polystyrene plates to insulate a house from aerated concrete from the outside reduces its "breathing" properties, this material is widely used. The technology for arranging the heat-insulating layer is quite simple and can be easily done independently.

Preparing the walls

The surface of aerated concrete blocks is quite flat, so the preparation of the walls is reduced to the removal of sagging adhesive solution in the area of ​​interblock seams. Potholes (if any formed during the construction process) are repaired cement mortar... Then we cover the entire surface of the wall with an antiseptic solution (to prevent mold and mildew). After the antiseptic has dried, the walls are primed to improve adhesion when gluing polystyrene plates to aerated concrete.

Installation of thermal insulation boards

We glue the walls of the building with sheets of expanded polystyrene using special adhesives. As an adhesive, you can use ready-made dry mixes (Ceresit CT 85, T-Avangard-K, Kreisel 210, Bergauf ISOFIX), liquid adhesives(Bitumast) or ready-made assembly adhesives in aerosol packaging (Tytan Styro 753, Ceresit CT 84 "Express", Soudal Soudatherm, TechnoNIKOL 500). Apply the glue to the slabs around the perimeter and additionally in several places on the surface.

Important! The adhesives should not contain solvents or other chemical components capable of damaging the surface of expanded polystyrene or disrupting the structure of the material.

Many adhesives allow installation of boards at an ambient temperature of -10˚C to + 40˚C. However, experts in the field of housing construction recommend performing thermal insulation work at a temperature not lower than + 7˚С and in dry, calm weather.

First, along the entire perimeter of the building, we glue the first bottom row of foam plates, then we fix the rest of the rows. We press the plates with effort to the wall surface and lay them in a checkerboard pattern. We check the correctness of the installation with a level.

Important! In the corners of the structure, the panels are stacked end-to-end, that is, in such a way that in one row the panel from the end of the building extends to the thickness of the sheet, and the panel, located at an angle of 90 degrees, rested against it. In the next row, the operation is performed in the reverse order.

After the final drying of the adhesive composition (about 1 day), we produce additional mount each sheet using special dowels with large heads ("umbrellas"), which should not contain metal parts. The fact is that they rust and create additional cold bridges in the heat-insulating layer: that is, the dowel itself and the central nail must be plastic. Depending on the size, 5-6 dowels are required for each sheet.

Using a punch, we make a hole in the heat insulator layer and aerated concrete wall, then use a hammer to hammer in the dowel and insert the fixing nail.

After the installation of all fixing dowels is over, proceed to finishing walls.

External finishing of the heat insulator made of expanded polystyrene

Since expanded polystyrene has low strength and is susceptible to the negative influence of ultraviolet radiation, it is necessary to carry out finishing work after laying it.

First, on top of expanded polystyrene, using a special plaster (or adhesive), we attach a reinforcing fiberglass mesh, which prevents cracking of the plaster and improves adhesion. After complete drying, apply a layer of finishing decorative plaster. Such exterior decoration quite enough to give the insulating layer the necessary strength.

We insulate the floor with expanded polystyrene

We carry out insulation of a concrete floor with expanded polystyrene sheets with a density of 20-30 kg / m2. We perform flooring of expanded polystyrene boards as follows:

• we make a preliminary leveling fill (it is done if the difference in base heights exceeds 5 mm), let it dry;
• the surface is primed;
• along the entire perimeter of the room, we attach a damper tape to the lower part of the walls;
• on top of the screed, we lay a layer of waterproofing (ordinary polyethylene is quite suitable: at the joints the material is overlapped - at least 10 cm, we put on the walls - at least 20 cm; we fasten everything with construction tape);
• we lay polystyrene sheets on the floor according to the groove-thorn principle in a checkerboard pattern (the thorns must fully enter the grooves);
• on top of the heat-insulating layer, we lay a vapor barrier and a reinforcing mesh;
• make a screed of the required thickness.

On a note! This method of insulation is very effective, but the height of the room is reduced by 10-15 cm.

Floor insulation can be done not only with expanded polystyrene plates, but also with expanded polystyrene concrete, having equipped a screed from it (since the thermal conductivity coefficient of polystyrene concrete is low - λ = 0.05 ÷ 0.07 W / m ° C). We prepare the solution for such a pour on our own by mixing necessary ingredients: 20 kg of cement, 12.5 liters of water and 0.125 m³ of expanded polystyrene granules, or we buy a ready-made dry mix. After insulation with polystyrene concrete, we produce a finishing screed (if necessary) and lay the floor covering.

Ceiling insulation

Polyfoam can be successfully used to insulate the ceiling indoors. As a rule, thin sheets of 5 cm thick are used for these purposes. Fastening the slabs to the ceiling is similar to laying on outer wall... The only difference is that you can use adhesives and plaster mix that are intended for indoor use (they are cheaper than outdoor use).

In custody

Having correctly calculated the thickness of the heat-insulating layer of expanded polystyrene and observing the technology of laying sheets and external finishing, you can build a warm and comfortable home for living in any region.