Grouting ceramic tiles: we understand how and how to grout the seams correctly. What is the fastest way to grout the joints on the tiles: all the subtleties of grouting ceramic tiles How to grout the joints on the tiles

Laying tiles with jointing is primarily related to the characteristics of the material. It's all about the edges, which do not always have the same, and even edges. Therefore, when installing end-to-end, the rows will have distortions especially noticeable on walls with a significant length. Also, this method allows you to compensate for thermal deformations, especially on floors with forced heating.

But, in turn, the resulting gaps must be protected from clogging, and most importantly from moisture. This problem is solved by grouting the joints between the tiles. How to do this work, and what materials to use?

The quality of the process performed, as well as the functionality of the expansion joints, will depend on the correct choice of the main working material. The above factors, due to which it is necessary to grind the seams between the tiles, will prevent: the appearance of fungus, peeling of the tile from the base.

Also, after the completion of the work, the worn out gaps look more aesthetically pleasing, and when choosing a material in a common color, the masonry will have a holistic appearance.

When buying the necessary mixture, you should immediately discard the thought of the possibility of sealing joints with silicone sealants. They do not have all the necessary qualities, and you also do not need to seal the cracks with tile glue, which is not as flexible as materials specially designed for this!

Today, two main types of compounds are used for grouting:

Cement based. A very flexible material that is easy to work with. It happens ready-made and dry. It is also divided into options for wide joints (more than 5 mm), and narrow (less than 5 mm). Moreover, for the former, it is necessary to have a filler in the composition - sand, which prevents the appearance of cracks.
Epoxy grout The mixture consists of epoxy resin, hardener, and quartz filling (sand). Prepare the substance by mixing the base (epoxy + sand) and the hardener. To work with such a grout, experience is needed, it is very viscous, but the result is such that the joints will not lose their properties for 50 years.

In addition to the required qualities of the material, the joint filler must be selected for the specific tile. It is worth following these instructions:

The color is chosen for the overall color of the tile.
If it has a varied color, the grout is chosen according to the prevailing tone.
When combining different tiles, the material is needed for the general background of the entire room.

Only with a careful choice of grout can you get high-quality finish protection in combination with an aesthetic appearance.

Grouting process

It is necessary to think over the filling of the expansion gaps between the tiles even at the stage of their laying on the surface. Otherwise, you can get too narrow slots, which will be inconvenient to fill with material, or, on the contrary, too wide openings will be created, which is fraught with a significant consumption of grout, and its cracking. The optimal gap is considered to be within 3-5 mm, in some types of design it is made wider, but not more than 12 mm.

Before you start filling the joints with material, you need to navigate the recipe for its preparation, prepare the gaps for grouting, and also choose a convenient tool.

How can you work

The set of necessary devices for filling the seams is small, everything is done by hand, which means that no special tool is needed.

Rubber, and ordinary, narrow plastering trowel.
Mixing container.
Foam sponge.
Clean water (if the grout is cement).

It is also worth buying rubber gloves, the base in the form of cement adversely affects the skin, there may be irritations.

Preparing gaps for grouting

In principle, if all the work on laying the tiles is done accurately, then special preparation at the work site is not required. However, this is not always the case.

Manufacturers produce various collections of tiles, both for walls and floors with beveled edges (chamfers), which are usually lighter than the rest of the background. Naturally, during transportation and installation, these parts will be contaminated, they need to be washed so that after grouting they do not stand out black.

Also, the chamfers should be cleaned during the grouting process from splashes of material and at the end of the work!

Before working on filling the joints, you can inspect all the gaps for contamination, followed by their cleaning, and also wet the areas well before applying the mixture.

How to prepare the mixture

Some experts recommend using a grout mixer. But, working in a small room alone, you should not immediately prepare a large amount of material, and even more so use the whole, you may not have time to do everything in one go, and the leftovers will simply disappear. Therefore, the batch is done in portions, in small batches according to consumption, and manually.

Usually, preparation is carried out using water, less often a latex liquid. It is important to observe the dosages indicated on the container, otherwise excess moisture will lead to the loss of some of the qualities of the material.

Kneading is carried out by adding a dry mixture to the water, not vice versa! Moreover, the liquid initially, you need about a third of the volume specified in the recipe, then add it during mixing. By mixing the components, they control the consistency; it should be slightly thicker than sour cream.

0 When preparing a large amount of grout, a mixer can be used, and it must be completely submerged in the mixture. It is important, with such mechanization, not to use high rotations of the drill, about 300 per minute is enough.

The prepared mixture should be left to infuse for a period of about 10 minutes, and then proceed to work on filling the joints.

Grouting joints between tiles

The grouting scheme is as follows: first, horizontal lines are processed, then vertical. The whole process is carried out from bottom to top in individual areas.

The technique is as follows:

The work must be done with two spatulas. With plastering steel, a portion of the material is collected, and stretched to the edge of the rubber spatula.
The main tool (rubber spatula) is set at an angle of 20-30 degrees to the seam, and with a short movement the mixture is pressed into the gap.
Excess, which will inevitably float up, must be removed with the same device, moving it along the gap.
On the surface of the tile, stains will inevitably remain, which are wiped off with a sponge a little later.

Attention, a situation is possible when the tile absorbs moisture from the material too quickly (despite the preliminary moistening), and it will settle in the gap. In this case, you can add mixtures in the same way.

In addition to the spatula technique, a trowel bag can be used. This device is similar in principle to a confectionery device for creating patterns from cream. A portion of the grout is placed in the container of the tool, and, having set the nozzle at the beginning of the seam, lead the bag along, gradually squeezing the composition into the gap. In this way, you can speed up the procedure.

At the end of the work, you need to wait until the composition is dry, then wipe the tile surfaces to remove plaque.

When self-grouting tiles, you may find, after the mixture has hardened, unevenly filled areas with joint defects. Do not panic, this is a completely natural situation of a decrease in the volume of material as a result of moisture loss. Simply prepare the same grout compound and re-insert it into the gaps followed by sponge cleaning. As a result, you will get the perfect tiled masonry design.

When the main work on laying the tiles is left behind, you can proceed to its final stage - grouting. This work plays a very important role, because a well-made grout will be able to mask defects in the laying of tiles, if any, and, conversely, a bad grout will completely destroy the impression of a flawlessly executed installation. In addition, the empty spaces between the tiles with poor-quality grout turn black over time from mold and mildew. Therefore, it is worth paying special attention to the question of how to grind the seams on the tiles in order to improve the overall appearance of the coating, as well as provide additional protection.

Video instruction

What are the types of grouting compounds?

There are two types of tile grout:

cement-based;
epoxy based.

Cement grout inexpensive and easy to use, and therefore the most popular in home use. They are presented in the form of dry mixes with the addition of modified polymers and are diluted with water or latex before starting work. Modified polymers give the grout resistance to moisture, and this allows it to be used even in outdoor areas. Ready-made mixtures are also on sale, which do not require additional preparation, but they usually cost much more.

If the joint is wider than 3 mm during installation, then it is better to purchase a cement grout with the addition of sand, and if the joints are of smaller width, then it is recommended to use a conventional cement-based grout.

Safety tip: Cement grouting can cause inflammation of the skin, eyes and lungs. Therefore, when working with these materials, be sure to wear safety glasses, a respirator and rubber gloves.

Epoxy grout contain epoxy resin as well as a hardener. Such compositions perfectly tolerate mechanical, chemical and thermal effects, they are much more stable and stronger than cement counterparts, but they are also more expensive. They are used mainly in industrial premises. At home, it is reasonable to use such a grout only if the width of the joints between the ceramic tiles is more than 6 mm (since it is quite viscous, it will not be able to penetrate into narrower joints).

Epoxy grout is a mixture of 2 components: a paste and a catalyst, which are mixed immediately before use. The proportions of these two components must be accurate, therefore a balance must be used.

Which tile grout is best? Experts recommend buying epoxy grout for the joints of ceramic tiles, since it is more beautiful, stronger and more reliable. It will last up to 50 years, perfectly protecting the cladding from moisture, fungi and bacteria, as well as from the effects of chemicals. If, nevertheless, you decide to buy a cement-based grout, then it is advisable to buy latex for it.

As for the color of the grout, this is a matter of taste: the grout can be matched to the main color of the ceramic tile, or you can prefer the classic light tone.

Trowel width

What should be the width of the trowel joints? Much of this depends on personal preference. Some people like tight seams, for example. Too wide seams suppress the tiles visually. Square ceramic tiles measuring 10 to 60 cm will look neat with 3 mm seams. The irregular shape of the tiles becomes less noticeable with wider joints, but no more than 12 mm. A seam with a width of more than 12 mm will become stronger if coarse sand is added to the grout, but even this will not always save it from cracking.

It is equally not recommended to make the joints too narrow, as it will not be possible to fill them properly with grout, as a result of which water can seep into the interior of the cladding. Good craftsmen know that the quality of the cladding will be at a high level if the joints are wide enough when they can be well filled with grout. This means that the seams will be waterproof, and they will also be able to absorb the deformation of the tiles during expansion or contraction. This ability of seams decreases many times when they are less than 1 millimeter wide.

Grouting ceramic tiles: how it's done

How is ceramic tile grout done correctly? First of all, we check if the glue is completely dry. Then we carry out a thorough cleaning of the seams from the remnants of glue, dirt and dust, remove the remaining spacers. When working with unglazed tiles, moisten the tiles before grouting, otherwise they will draw in water from the grouting mixture. Glazed tiles do not need to be wetted.

All grouting materials must be kept for some time in the room where the grouting work will be carried out. The optimum temperature for grouting is 18-25 ° C.

You can see the details of the grouting process in the video below - grouting ceramic tiles video. It consists of the following steps:

mixing the trowel;
holding the trowel mixture for its better wetting;
re-mixing the grout;
distribution of grout;
cleaning excess grout.

Mix the grout with water or latex additives. Dry polymer grouts are exclusively water-miscible. In any case, add such an amount of liquid so that the resulting mixture is easily distributed. This is important to remember, because excess liquid will weaken the grout (we adhere to the proportions indicated on the packaging of the material).

The grout is mixed by adding the dry component to the liquid

We mix it by gradually adding the dry component to the liquid (at first we pour only three quarters of the total amount of liquid). After mixing all the dry components with the liquid, add the remaining liquid in small portions, constantly checking the consistency of the grout. Mixing is carried out using a rectangular trowel or an electric mixer. The mixer must be completely immersed in the solution so that air does not get into the mixture, because air bubbles weaken it.

All components are mixed, most of the lumps are broken. Let the solution stand for 10 minutes to wet. Stir the grout again so that no lumps remain. If it will be necessary to prepare several portions of grouting solution, then you need to be sure that their composition will be identical. Therefore, when mixing new portions, we try to observe the proportions and order of combining the components, and so that the color of the grout is constant, when mixing the next portion we add grout from each package to it.

Advice! When purchasing multiple packs of grout, make sure they all come with the same serial number.

The finished grout must have sufficient density so that it can be heaped when spreading.

Materials and tools required for grouting

Rubber scraper
Grout
Sponge
Bucket
Wooden stick with a pointed end, bridging or toothbrush
Plywood
Clean cloth
Paint roller
Respirator (for working with cement grout)
Latex gloves
Protective glasses

We spread the grout with a slide on the surface of the cladding.

The grout is laid out in a slide on the surface of the tile.

To distribute the solution, use a trowel (for walls or floors, respectively). Apply the grout diagonally to the tiles, holding the trowel at a 30 ° angle to it. We try not only to cover the seams with a solution, but also to press it into the seams with effort to fill them tightly, because their strength depends on the density of filling the seams.

Grout is applied at an angle of 30 degrees to the tile

We do not grout over the entire surface at once. First, we distribute the solution over a small area (no more than 2 square meters) in order to find out how quickly this grout sets. If it sets quickly, stop and clean. Sometimes it is possible to distribute the grout over an area of up to 9m2, and only then start cleaning, in other cases it is necessary to cover only small areas and clean them.

The first grout removal is dry.

To do this, we use a grater, holding it at right angles to the tiles and moving it diagonally to the grouting joints (so that the edge of the tool does not accidentally remove part of the grout from the joint). Once the excess has been removed, allow the grout to set before cleaning. While we mash and clean, do not forget to mix the grout periodically so that it retains its softness until it is applied to the next areas.

During the grouting process, the grout is periodically stirred so that it retains its softness.

The second trowel removal is wet. When should you start it? The time it takes for the grout to fully set before wet cleaning varies greatly. It can take 5 minutes, and it can take 20 minutes or more. The rate of evaporation of moisture from the grout is directly dependent on the adhesive and tile, the type of substrate, and weather conditions.

Wet cleaning of the cladding surface

For wet cleaning, a bucket of water and a sponge are required (it is desirable that the sponge has rounded edges - this will not form grooves in the seams). Remove sand and cement particles with gentle circular motions. Proceed with caution to avoid grooving in grout joints. We clean only a small area (1-2m2) at a time, wetting the sponge often enough to wash off grout particles that have penetrated the pores of the tiles. We try to rinse the sponge well and squeeze it out as hard as possible, shake off excess water from our hands.

At the second stage, we inspect the grouting joints so that they are all neat. We align and smooth the seams using a jointing stitch, a toothbrush or a wooden stick with a pointed end.

With the help of jointing, the seams are leveled and smoothed

Then we trim their edges with a sponge. Ideally, the seams should be flat on the top, not convex, although most seams then become a little concave, but this is acceptable. It is important that in the end they all have the same depth and shape.

The seams were leveled, now it remains to thoroughly clean the surface of the cladding from the remaining traces of grout. We act carefully so as not to wipe the grout from the joints with a sponge. After this cleaning, the remaining grout must be completely removed from the surface of the tiles. The seams should dry in about 15 minutes.

The plaque remaining on the tile surface from the grout is removed with gauze or a soft, clean cloth.

The work is done, place the plywood sheet on the floor and do not allow anyone to walk on the floor until the grout is completely dry. Some grouts dry for up to two or more weeks (we specify the drying time in the manufacturer's instructions).

Do you know how to trowel tiles correctly? What tools to use? How to breed?

Let's look for answers to the questions in order.

Pre-application of the joint

List of instruments

Rubber spatula
Construction bag
Piece of cable
Capacity

Surface preparation

Prepare the surface before trowelling the tiles. To do this, you need to clean the seams from debris: mortar residues, crosses.

Important! It is necessary to start grouting the tiles only after at least 24 hours after laying the tiles.

Some manufacturers claim that their crosses do not need to be removed to adjust the joints between tiles. However, our experts assure that if you do not want the fugue in these places to be two shades lighter than in all areas, you should nevertheless remove this element.

Jointing of seams

Before troweling the tiles, of course, you need to dilute the mixture itself.

Pressing the mixture into the seams

Advice! You need to dilute a small amount, not the whole package!

Of course, if you need to grout, then use a container larger than for grouting tiles on the walls.

Why? Explaining!

It is best to rub the tiles on the walls with a small rubber trowel, with which the mixture is applied directly to the seams. But in order to trowel the tiles on the floor, especially with large volumes, they often use a tool that resembles a "grater" for smoothing a concrete surface. By collecting a sufficiently large amount of the mixture on this spatula, the grout is applied to the tile itself, moving diagonally.

Important! In one step, an area of 1-2 squares follows, more at a time is not recommended, since the mixture itself can grab, and then it will not be possible to carry out high-quality jointing.

However, the method using the above grater is a little of poor quality, it is suitable, say, for the work of a master, but when you do everything with your own hands, it is better to use a rubber spatula in your apartment.

Why? Explaining!

When grouting with a rubber trowel, you will apply sufficient force to press in the mixture. This effort is necessary so that when filling there are no voids, only then the grout will fully justify its protective functions. Seam protection is an important step in laying the tiles themselves.

Remove excess mixture with a sponge

If the fugue is applied correctly, it will help you to avoid many problems in the future. The grout itself does not allow water to pass through, and therefore, the solution on which the tiles are laid will not be exposed to the destructive action of moisture.

Also, if you decide to grind the tiles on the street, say, on a terrace or in a gazebo, we recommend using mixes for outdoor work. And here grouting tiles is a must!

If moisture in the warm season gets into unprotected seams and seeps under the tiles, then be prepared to completely relocate the floor next year. Why? Yes, because in winter, moisture turns into ice, which, as you know from physics lessons, not only has a much larger volume than water, but also completely incompressible.

And in the end, tiles that were laid outside without grouting will simply either "tear" from the inside or fall off.

Another way to grout tiles is to use a building cone. The construction cone in its function resembles an ordinary baking bag, inside which cream is placed and, by squeezing, is applied to the cake.

We clean the tiles

The principle of operation here is similar, a grout mixture is placed inside the cone, which, under pressure, will be distributed along the seams.

Joining seams

So, trowelling is not that difficult. The next step is to join the seams.

For jointing, some craftsmen walk along the seams with a piece of cable of a suitable diameter, while excess grout will protrude onto the surface of the tile itself, and all the seams will be neat, equally filled.

However, this stage is not at all necessary, so trowelling the tiles in this way will only be your decision.

Tile cleaning

After you have completed the grouting, and even the jointing, you should immediately start cleaning.

Why do we recommend doing it right away? Until the fugue has completely set, cleaning the tile will not be as problematic as it would be at the end of the process. Moreover, if your tile has a porous, corrugated surface, you should remove the excess mixture right there, just when you start to grind the tile.

Use clean rags, a sponge for cleaning - after all, if your fugue is of light shades, there will be a possibility that you will dirty it at the initial stage, during cleaning after repair, without wanting to.

So, you have learned not only to grind the tiles, but also to embroider the seams, which is why, without postponing things indefinitely, get to work!

Any renovation of the premises where the tiled flooring is laid requires a full range of construction work. The final stage is called grouting the joints between tiles with special compounds that differ in structure, consumer characteristics and complexity of use. It is difficult to navigate among the mass of proposed materials, therefore, in this article we will consider the main aspects of this topic. Perhaps this will help you make the right choice and successfully purchase products that match your parameters. Grouting completes the process of tiling the surface.

It is important to do it without mistakes in order to get an excellent result. Beginners have a lot of questions: how to rub the seams between the tiles on the floor, how to do it without further alteration. It is recommended to inquire about the required materials and process before starting work. There are many videos on this topic on the Internet from professionals that significantly speed up the learning period for beginners.

Some of the issues worth taking the time to include are:

what types of grout are;
how the work on sealing the seams is carried out;
what needs to be prepared for these manipulations;
which brand to give preference to;
are there pitfalls in the process.

Why is it necessary to grout the tiles on the floor? This process is used to seal and prevent moisture and debris from entering the inter-tile space. As a result, the service life is extended. Also, high-quality work successfully mask the flaws in the installation, and add completeness and aesthetics to the floor or wall covering.

Types of grout for floor tiles

The industry offers consumers several types of grout (the second name is fugue) for tiles, differing in characteristics. These include:

cement;
polymer-cement and polymer;
epoxy and epoxy-cement;
polyurethane.

There is also a furan fugue, but it is used very rarely at home - it is only black. Although it is she who has excellent characteristics. If the color scheme of your coating allows you to process the seams in this spectrum, it is quite possible to join the furan variety.

The names are taken from the main component that is included in the grout. He will determine the properties of the fugue and its scope. When choosing, pay attention to two main aspects: the width of the processed seam and the expected level of humidity in the room. Also look at the packaging: ready-made mixtures are supplied in plastic containers, dry ones - in paper bags or bags.

Cement

The basis for this type is white cement, mixed with fine refined sand during production. This grout is used on surfaces that are not subject to vibration. The lack of plasticity leads to the appearance of cracks, so this factor must be taken into account when buying.

It is also not recommended to use such a fugue in rooms with high humidity - the composition is hygroscopic, which will lead to mold. Therefore, to extend the service life, water-repellent impregnations are used.

Cement grouting of tiles on the floor is made in the form of a powder, which requires dilution with water before use. This is due to the rapid solidification of the finished solution. The seams are rubbed with a special rubber trowel.

Important! It is worth remembering the unsafe preparation of the working solution. Dust generated during mixing causes irritation of the mucous membranes and an allergic reaction. Be sure to use personal protective equipment when carrying out work - respirators and goggles.

Polymer-cement and polymer

This type differs from cement grout by the presence of polymer compounds in the composition. This removed the shortcomings of the previous one and provided the following positive qualities:

strength;
plastic;
moisture resistance.

The listed properties made it possible to use a fugue regardless of the level of moisture and surface mobility. The principle of application is the same as for the previous one. It is offered to the consumer in dry form, implying the preparation of a working solution. It hardens quickly, it is recommended to prepare the mixture in small portions.

The polymer joint is intended for filling micro-joints in porcelain stoneware or stone and has specific characteristics. Cement-free, silicone based. Plastic and waterproof in terms of properties. Permitted for use in rooms with high humidity. A special feature during application is the need to protect the tiles with masking tape along the seams and the presence of a filling gun.

Epoxy and epoxy-cement

These formulations have many advantages over the previous ones. They are durable and elastic, resistant to various aggressive influences and temperature extremes. It is possible to add decorative shiny additives, which improves the appearance of the tile flooring. The disadvantage is the complexity of the work due to the high viscosity, even for professionals in this field. But the result will delight for a long time without losing practical and aesthetic qualities.

The epoxy grout has a two-component composition - resin and hardener. The components are mixed before use until a thick plastic mass is formed. They work with it quickly, after mixing the components, the fugue hardens. Before work, it is recommended to watch training videos with grouting tiles on the floor with this type to prevent negative consequences.

Also, among the features, it is worth noting that it is possible to use it to grout joints with a width of at least 6 mm due to the viscous consistency. Available in a wide range of colors, including silver, gold, bronze.

Polyurethane grout

It is a dispersion of water-based polyurethane resins. In terms of quality, it is superior to cement joints, but inferior to epoxy ones. Waterproof, practical, does not change its appearance after a long time. Resistant to vibration and slight deformation. It is offered in a ready-to-use consistency. Easy to operate.

Seams up to 6mm are available for processing. Before grouting the tiles on the floor with polyurethane grout, you should first clean them of dust and wait until the glue with which the covering is attached has completely dried.

Top manufacturers of tile grout

Fugues are offered to consumers by many companies. Consider several leading manufacturers that combine quality and ease of use in their products:

Henkel, German brand Ceresit. Vast experience in the production of various materials for construction has formed a reputation as a reliable and serious company that offers its customers excellent products with high performance. The range of Ceresit grouts allows you to choose the most suitable one without any extra effort.
Mapei, an Italian company specializing in the production of construction products, including various types of joints. Among the wide range, you can choose a product for any requirement.
Atlas, a Polish concern that is not inferior in quality to eminent competitors. It also offers a wide range of products for renovation, is very popular with customers.
Kiilto, a Finnish brand representing building materials including epoxy grouting materials. Differs in positive characteristics and high quality, more often used by professionals.

Whichever brand you decide to buy, consider your own requirements. It will not be superfluous to ask about the reviews of real users about this or that product on specialized forums, at the same time reading advice on how to properly grind the seams on the tiles. Sometimes expensive materials in inept hands turn into unpleasant consequences.

What are the criteria for choosing a grout for the floor

When choosing a fugue, it is worth deciding on several parameters necessary for a successful purchase. These include:

tile material;
compatibility of the joint and the glue used for laying the covering;
the width of the inter-tile space;
characteristics of a tiled room (humidity, exposure intensity, temperature);
surface colors.

It is also recommended to read the manufacturer's recommendations and detailed instructions for use indicated on the packaging. Pay particular attention to the compatibility of the grout and the material from which the tiles are made. This criterion is very significant and affects the quality of the work performed.

The porcelain stoneware joint must not be rubbed over with cement compounds. An epoxy grout will be most effective. But take into account all the nuances, otherwise color distortion and damage to the top layer of the glaze will occur.
In bathrooms, it is advisable to use polymer-cement or polymer grout. It is resistant to moisture and absorbs possible expansion of the material under the influence of temperature.

Remember that it is better to use fugues that meet certain parameters and are best suited to the criteria of your choice, despite the existence of universal compositions. Be guided by the joint width - it is proportional to the stability of the grout.

When choosing a color spectrum, they usually prefer a fugue to match the tile or slightly darker. If the designer's idea involves the use of a contrasting shade, it is worth remembering that this will not only indicate strict geometric shapes, but also highlight all the shortcomings of styling.

Grout tool

Before properly rubbing the tiles on the floor, you need to purchase not only the working mixture directly, but also the tool that you will need in the process. It can be divided into two main groups: the basic set is needed regardless of the type of fugue and the specific one, which requires certain types of grout. The main ones are the following:

mixing container;
rubber float and spatula of various widths;
a piece of foam rubber and a soft rag;
for large volumes - drill and mixer attachment for homogeneous mixing.

Specific additions to the list might include a grout gun, metal bag, and other tools. Then everything will be done right.

Description of the grouting process

After the preparatory work and the purchase of the necessary mixture, we proceed to the process itself. There are some nuances in it, which we will consider in more detail. This also applies to the observance of the order of actions, and the inadmissibility of certain manipulations.

The first thing to remember is that you cannot start work without waiting for the glue used to lay the coating to completely dry. It is imperative to clean the seams from debris with a vacuum cleaner. If the grout is sold in an unprepared form and requires mixing of the working solution, strictly follow the instructions and the dosage recommended by the manufacturer indicated on the package.

The sequence of actions how to grout the seams on the tiles on the floor is as follows.

It is necessary to grind the seams between the tiles correctly. To do this, it is worth finding out what consistency the solution should be, how and when to remove excess solution. These nuances are revealed in this article. After reading them, you will definitely do everything right.

Tools and materials required for grouting tiles:

Grout for joints;
Paper tape;
Metal spatula;
Rubber spatula;
Sponge, ice scraper;
Bucket, clean rags.

Grouting ceramic tiles

Choice of shade

Pay particular attention to choosing the right grout color. How often, when visiting someone, do you notice the discrepancy between the tiles and the seams between them? To prevent this from happening to you, take a piece of tile and go to the building materials store. Choose the shade that suits your taste.

Note: The color of the dry grout is 99 percent the same as the finished joint between the tiles.

If you plan to highlight the seams, use contrasting shades. Otherwise, buy grout exactly the same color as the tile.

Surface preparation

Prepare the surface carefully or you will not achieve maximum results. Pay attention to glue residues in the grooves between the tiles. They will prevent you from doing the job perfectly. They should be removed.

First of all, use a damp sponge to remove all adhesive residues from the tile surface. Then start cleaning the tile gaps.

Take out and remove any plastic crosses that were used for the floor cladding or. This can be done using fine-nose pliers or the edge of a metal spatula. Do not damage the edges of the tiles.

Note: Do not use the same crosses twice or thrice to glue tiles. This is not the kind of thing to save on.

After removing the crosses, you should start removing the glue from the grooves between the tiles. Use a metal spatula to do this. The free spaces between the ceramic tiles will allow the grout to be applied throughout the entire inter-tile space.

Remove all separated adhesive residues from the tile surface and from the seams with a vacuum cleaner.

Protect all surfaces adjacent to the tile with paper tape. For example, door frames, wooden floors. Such manipulations will save you a lot of time and effort while washing the dried grout.

Only after the completion of the preparatory procedures, you can start preparing the solution.

Preparation of the solution

Try not to use non-approved tile putty. The product should not be cheap - this will affect the solidification time of the solution, its plasticity and ease of use.

You will need a narrow metal spatula to mix the mortar in a bucket. For grouting, two tools can be used, shown in the photo on the sides of the metal trowel.

In this case, a rubber spatula will be used.

Pour the required amount of water into the bucket - see the instructions on the grout package. Stir with a spatula, gradually pouring in the dry mixture. Allow the mixture to "ripen" for a few minutes before final mixing to activate its adhesive function.

Note: Wear a respirator mask to avoid breathing dust when grouting tiles.

Stir the mixture well so that not a single lump remains. In the photo you can see a properly prepared grout consistency. It should not slide off the spatula as a lump, but it should not run down like water. Otherwise, the grout will not be strong.

Grouting

Moisten the tiles well near the joints before grouting. This can be done with a damp sponge.

Start applying grout from the opposite corner of the room from the entrance and move gradually towards the entrance.

Only in this sequence will you and the corridor remain clean.

To avoid too much grout consumption for the tiles, use only a small amount of the mixture at a time.

So, apply some of the mixture with a metal spatula evenly to the end of the rubber spatula. With a rubber trowel, start filling the joints at an angle of 30-45 degrees.

Walk over the same place several times until the inter-tile space is completely filled.

You will have to work with patience so that everything works out neatly. As you will see, this is not difficult at all. Move gradually towards the exit from the room.

Remove excess grout from the ceramic tile by holding the rubber trowel almost vertically. At this stage, you will appreciate the usefulness of the paper tape you pasted earlier.

If you had not glued the objects close to the tiles, it would take a long time to clean them. Whoever met one-on-one with a dried grout, he knows what it is about and how difficult it is to clean it from any surface.

Cleaning excess grout

20 minutes after the end of the application of grout on the entire floor surface, remove its excess.

Note: make sure to complete this procedure in time. Otherwise, for the perfect look of the seams on the tiles, you will have to spend a lot of money on various tools. Typically wait 20 minutes after applying grout and then wipe off any excess from the tile surface with a clean, dry cloth.

Grooves in tile seams

Note: if you are making joints flush with the tiles, skip this step and go to the step of rinsing off the grout with a wet sponge.

5 minutes after grouting, take a piece of tubing and remove any excess from the joints.

You need to work very carefully here. Whatever shape you make for the seams at this stage, it will remain so. Everything should be done quickly!

Remove pieces of loose grout with a vacuum cleaner. If this is not done, they can get caught in the seams and stick to them.

The first step in removing excess grout from the floor is to use a dry cloth to remove large pieces.

Then use a damp sponge.

Note: If you notice that a damp sponge is removing a fairly large layer of grout from the joints, wait another five minutes and then start the same procedure again.

After that, the floor will begin to take on the desired form (see photo). But there is still a colored coating on the surface of the tile, which cannot be removed at one time.

Note: If you notice thickening on the seams that cannot be removed with a damp sponge, use an ice scraper or the damp abrasive side of the sponge in such places.

After 10-20 minutes, wipe the floor with a damp cloth (mop). Do not apply too much pressure to the mop - the grout has not yet fully hardened. The mixture finally hardens only after a day, sometimes longer, depending on the thickness of the layer and the humidity in the room.

After this procedure, the plaque from the tile surface should completely disappear.

Now you can admire the beauty you've created.