Insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside with your own hands. Thermal insulation of walls from the inside of a wooden house in various ways

Warming a house has always been considered a mandatory stage of construction, and if not initially, then additional work was envisaged in the future. After all, it is imperative to take into account factors such as heat, humidity and ventilation.

But the method and technology of thermal insulation of a house differs markedly from the methods of warming a city apartment, and if the building is made of logs, then there are secrets there. Therefore, in order to properly insulate a wooden house from the inside, you need to thoroughly prepare.

Where to begin?

Initially, you need to determine the type of wood from which the house is made, because there are heat-insulating rocks, and therefore costs can be reduced. The main thing is to identify the shortcomings and eliminate them, usually the appearance of cracks, improper insulation, cracking of logs.

After identifying the shortcomings and determining the range of work, they begin to warm the walls. In this case, the owners have a choice of which side of the wall to insulate: internal or external. Internal insulation is easier, although the external version has its advantages, sometimes the best way out from this situation - a combination of two methods.

The key to success is to correctly observe the technology of fastening the material and protect it from moisture. You can do the work with your own hands, because the process itself is not technically difficult.

Heat insulating materials

Internal insulation of a wooden house can be carried out with modern synthetic and natural materials... Basic requirements for insulation materials- this is resistance to fire and the presence of high thermal insulation properties.
Manufacturers offer a wide range of thermal insulation materials, the most popular of which are:

ecowool;
mineral and stone wool;
polystyrene, expanded polystyrene;
drywall;
warm paints and plasters.

Coefficient of thermal conductivity

It should be noted that all heaters differ in thermal conductivity. Thus, the coefficient of thermal conductivity of most mineral and stone wool, as well as soft materials from natural fibers and ordinary expanded polystyrene, varies in the range of 0.038 - 0.045 W / m⃰ ° C.

The thickness of the layer can be from 50 to 200 mm, depending on the climatic parameters of the region and the main material of the walls.

For extruded polystyrene foam and polyurethane, this indicator does not exceed 0.03 W / m⃰ ° C, therefore, with comparable efficiency, the thickness of their layer is one and a half times less. But such materials do not "breathe" at all, which implies the construction of a powerful forced ventilation system.

Modern materials include ecowool. This material forms a solid thermal insulation layer, adjoining a log, a bar, it fills all cracks, voids and completely prevents blowing.

In this case, it is possible to avoid additional caulking of the log house. Ecowool allows internal moisture to pass through the capillaries inside the fibers, while the deterioration of the thermal insulation properties is not observed. The pores between the fibers remain dry; condensation of water vapor does not appear on the structure of the house.

The absence of moisture in the ecowool and the presence of mineral antiseptics exclude the appearance of mold and fungi in the insulation. Ecowool can be used for insulation from the inside and outside. wooden walls together with vapor-proof materials. But the main thing is that the ability of the house to "breathe" is preserved.

Mineral wool

Thermal insulation with mineral wool allows you to achieve high thermal insulation performance, but increased requirements are imposed on its installation, the main thing of which is to prevent moisture from entering the insulation, which significantly reduces the thermal insulation properties of the material.

Therefore, an additional layer of vapor barrier and waterproofing film is laid, and internal ventilation is provided to remove excess moisture.

Warming with foam plates, extruded polystyrene foam is less widespread. There are several reasons, the main one is the increased fire safety requirements.

Among the advantages, one can single out the elasticity of the material, its lightness, good heat and sound insulating properties, the small thickness of the plates, which makes it possible to slightly reduce the space of the room with internal insulation. The main thing is that the technology of foam insulation is constantly improving, the characteristics of the material change.

Wireframe creation

When working with any kind soft material, including with mineral wool, you must first create a frame around the entire perimeter of the walls, which will reliably hold the insulation. To create the lathing, wood is most often used, but metal guides can also be used, if then sheathing with heavy material, for example, drywall, will be carried out.

The lathing represents guides located vertically from floor to ceiling at a distance of 40 - 60 cm. Such stiffening ribs allow not only to securely fix the insulation, but also to close it with clapboard or any other material.

The corner pieces are mounted first. To do this, a bar at a right angle is attached to the rib beam, the section of which is most often 50x100 mm. After manufacturing, such elements are sewn to the corner of the wall after checking with a level. The entire frame is already marked from them, and stiffeners are attached.

Taking into account the possibility of the appearance of moisture, all elements of the frame should be treated with antiseptics, like the walls of the house themselves.

Insulation protection

An important element of the frame with insulation is special films that prevent moisture from entering the material. After installing the frame, a waterproofing film is stretched along the entire perimeter of the walls. Usually, it is laid in a horizontal plane, protecting the joints with a special waterproofing tape. Such a film will serve as an effective protection for the insulation, because the wetting of the material significantly increases its thermal conductivity.

It is equally important to protect the heat insulator from internal moisture. Such wall cladding almost completely removes natural ventilation, therefore, condensation can form on the border of the insulation, which can harm the material. In order to avoid the negative influence of internal humidity, the insulation is closed with a vapor barrier, which additionally protects all residents of the house from mineral wool particles.

Warm plaster technology

Most affordable way do-it-yourself home insulation. The work is performed according to the following technology.

Initially, the surface is prepared - the old layer of plaster is removed, and it is fixed directly to the walls reinforcement cage, which will serve as the basis for the new layer. A metal mesh with a size of 50 × 50 mm is additionally attached to the frame. Now you can start plastering the surface, which is carried out in three stages.

The first is splashing, when a solution is poured onto the surface of the walls, it is important to fill all the cracks and voids with it. Next, the surface is primed, the walls are leveled. The final layer is a cover, which consists in the following: sand sifted through a sieve is used for finishing.

Wall insulation

Wooden walls are insulated not only from the inside, but also by the method of in-wall insulation. Internal insulation of the house is then carried out using a special technology. To do this, use a moisture-resistant insulation that withstands deformation well: linen, hemp and linen tow.

The method is applicable only at the initial stage of construction, when the insulation is placed in an intra-wall gap, or rather, between two walls.

A few decades ago, wall insulation from the inside of a wooden house was not required: to keep warm in the room, it was enough to increase the thickness of the walls. But the use of more material for building a thick wall leads to an increase in financial costs, so the owners think about how it is correct and whether it is possible to insulate the house from the inside at all. Yes you can, modern construction market offers many different thermal insulation materials for internal insulation wooden houses.

What you need to know about wall insulation

Wood is a material with high thermal insulation properties, but when the thickness of the walls decreases, it becomes necessary for insulation. It is not possible to carry out external insulation, as this will deteriorate the appearance of the wooden structure. Additional heat loss occurs due to poor-quality joining of logs, under the influence of natural shrinkage of the house. Therefore, the insulation of a wooden house from the inside is an urgent problem, which modern thermal insulation materials help to solve.

Before you start choosing a heater and carrying out thermal insulation work, you need to find out two details:

It is best to plan home insulation work for the spring or summer. A newly built house is not insulated - you need to wait a year for the building to shrink. Otherwise, the work will be useless: after shrinkage, cracks and gaps between the logs will reappear, additional work will have to be carried out.

The choice of insulation

The quality of the insulation determines not only the warmth in the house, but also the health of the residents... The following requirements are imposed on the materials used to insulate the walls of a wooden house:

Low thermal conductivity.
Fire safety.
Mechanical strength.
Environmental cleanliness, safety for human health.

A lot of modern materials have been created with excellent thermal insulation properties. The following types of insulation are used:

The correct organization of work and a thoughtful approach are the lion's share of success in this difficult task. The following will describe the main steps for warming a room. Preparatory stage

Before starting thermal insulation work need to prepare the walls... The first operation is checking and sealing joints. To do this, use synthetic sealants, jute fiber, tow. Preparing walls for applying polyurethane foam includes cleaning the surface from dirt, old paint, greasy spots. After filling the joints, proceed to the next stage - processing of wood with fire-retardant compositions.

Treatment with compounds that prevent fire and mold infestation is very important, because wood after thermal insulation will be hidden from free access for many years; the condition and service life of a wooden building depends on the quality of processing. Fire retardant compounds are used to treat not only wooden walls, but also enclosing structures, even if they are made of other materials.

Ventilation device

When carrying out thermal insulation work you need to remember about ventilation: without it, it is impossible to achieve the correct indoor climate. Some heaters have low air permeability, which negatively affects indoor air quality. In order for the air to circulate correctly, arrange ventilation gaps- leave a small gap between the wall and the heat-insulating material. In this gap, free air circulation occurs, due to which the normal humidity insulation and walls.

Materials such as basalt wool, non-pressed polystyrene, glass wool require an additional vapor barrier. For this, a vapor barrier film is used, which is attached to the ventilation crate.

All thermal insulation materials require erection of enclosing structures- without them, it is impossible to fix the insulation on the wall. For this, wooden blocks are used, which are installed at a distance from each other equal to the width of the insulation. In order for the material to adhere more tightly to the fence, the distance between the bars is made less the right size by 1 cm. After laying the insulation between the enclosing bars, it is additionally secured with cords or dowels.

After installation on the wall, insulation with high porosity requires additional waterproofing. For this, waterproofing films with vapor-permeable membranes are used, due to which the moisture content of the insulation will always be equal to the air humidity in the room. As topcoat use drywall for thermal insulation, wooden lining, plywood.

The technology of insulating a wooden house from the inside is not complicated, it does not require professional skills from the owners. You can insulate the walls yourself, you just need study the technology of work and purchase high-quality materials.

Despite the development modern technologies in construction, wooden houses are still often found in summer cottages, villages and villages. At the same time, one of the main questions when building such a house becomes correct organization of wall insulation.

Made with high quality, using the most best materials, in accordance with the regulations, thermal insulation helps to maintain optimal temperature in the house in the summer, and with the onset of the long harsh Russian winter.

As known wood is highly susceptible to mold development and the service life of a wooden structure directly depends on the degree of safety of the structural elements. With the onset of winter, the first frost, the heating season begins.

We strive to provide a comfortable indoor temperature, while the logs and wooden beams from which the walls are folded are put to the real test. Warm on one side, they come into contact with cold outside air on the other, and the result of this is a constantly formed, condensation, harmful to wood.

The main goals of thermal insulation are to reduce heat loss in winter and maintain important elements in a structure in good condition.

Conditionally, wall insulation can be divided into two types:

walls of a wooden house;
insulation of the walls of the house.

There are many skeptics who condemn this or that method, but each of them has its own pros and cons. The choice of a certain method of insulation is due to a number of reasons and factors, but with strict adherence to technologies and proper performance of work, the choice of appropriate materials, any of them turns out to be effective.

The main difference between these two methods of insulation is, in fact, which side of the load-bearing walls of a wooden house will be insulated, and, as a consequence, how effective it will be in terms of keeping warm and beneficial to the entire structure.

The owners and owners of wooden houses who do not want to close the unique, beautiful facades of the building, made original ways masonry, or facades of architectural value. Such insulation will not be noticeable from the outside, while the appearance of the building will not change.

External insulation

The purpose of external insulation is maximum efficiency.... It implies the creation of an insulating structure on the outside of the load-bearing wooden walls and is more aimed at extending the life of the building, preserving all its important elements made of wood, protecting them from the destructive forces of nature and surrounding weather conditions.

External wall insulation remains a fairly common phenomenon, often used in construction and renovation. And this is confirmed by a number of advantages:

all temperature fluctuations, all the vagaries of the weather take on a layer of insulation and decoration, respectively, the service life wooden elements at home increases significantly;
the ability to insulate a long-built house... Often, such houses are purchased ready-made in suburban settlements along with plots and it is financially difficult to immediately rebuild a new house .;
the interior of the house remains intact what is convenient in terms of living and organizing everyday life;
the ability to choose a new look for the house at the expense of the finish

Wall cake

In other words - composition and sequence of all elements of insulation... When insulating a wooden house from the inside, the so-called "pie" can be represented as follows:

bearing wall;
lathing;
insulation - mineral wool;
vapor barrier film;
finishing layer of finishing.

Wall cake

What kind of insulation to choose?

When choosing insulation for the walls of the house, first of all should be converted attention to the ability of the material to pass steam and air while keeping warm.

You should also take into account the severity of the climate of the region of residence.

Of the materials for insulation can be distinguished:

mezhventsovy heaters used at the construction stage;
and heaters used for insulation from the outside or inside.

Mezhventsovy insulation is used in the laying of intervnetsovy joints. Such heaters are synthetic and natural (from jute, moss, flax, hemp). The main property of these materials is low thermal conductivity and the ability to accumulate and release the resulting moisture. The most common today are linen and jute fiber insulation.

Basalt (mineral) wool is widely used to insulate walls from the outside or from the inside., or fiberglass wool in the form of rolls or mats, with a density of 80 -120kg / cubic meter. In addition, it is environmentally friendly safe material.

It is not recommended to use Styrofoam or Penoplex as a pie element., since these materials are vapor and moisture resistant and prevent air exchange between the house and the outside environment.

As insulation materials such as:

Mineral wool is the best option for insulation

Sealing of seams and joints of forming elements

This method is internal insulation walls, aimed at sealing joints and cracks in logs... In this case, various sealants are used (silicone, latex, acrylic, linen rope, tow). This method is convenient in that it is easy to carry out with our own hands and does not require special skills, it does not interfere with the escape of steam and is economically most profitable.

Technically it is done as follows:

edges of joints and cracks are cleaned,
cavities are filled with rope, foam rubber;
a layer of sealant is applied on top;
the sealant is smoothed out with a brush until a smooth surface is formed;
the remains of the sealant are removed with a rag.

Sealing with sealant

Cloth seams

Preparation of the lathing and installation

When constructing the lathing, one should start from the thickness of the insulation... The thickness of the bars will be the same. Most often the timber is chosen 10-50 mm thick and 100 mm wide.

Mount the lathing transversely to the laying of logs with a step between the bars equal to the width of the heat-insulating mats with minus 3 centimeters for a tight fit... The height of the lathing is individual for individual rooms.

Parallel to laying the logs, a crate is also mounted in the same way (the so-called "counter-lattice"). For the installation of the battens, you should choose quality material without any signs of decay. Before installation, all wooden parts and surfaces should be treated with an antiseptic.

NOTE!

Do not use thin boards for lathing., since it also serves as a place for attaching topcoats.

Lathing

Do-it-yourself wall insulation from inside a wooden house

Insulation of walls inside a wooden house with mineral wool. When using this method, glass wool, cinder fiber, or mineral fiber mats are used.

Such material is the most effective in terms of thermal insulation and noise insulation, environmentally friendly... However, due to its structure, mineral wool allows steam to pass through and is capable of storing water.

For this reason, when using it in insulation, layers of hydro and vapor insulation must be used.

Mineral wool is available to customers in the form of rolls and mats. When insulating, it is most convenient to use mats by simply inserting them between the profiles of the sheathing made. In this case, the gaps between the mats should be no more than 2 mm.... Such gaps are subsequently sealed with adhesive tape - best of all with foil, or with plumbing tape.

Step-by-step installation:

the required number of mineral wool mats is prepared, based on the calculations of the squaring of the walls of the premises;
mineral wool is tightly inserted between the lathing beams;
the upper mats are trimmed in height;
gaps and seams between mats are glued with mounting tape.

Some builders use polystyrene foam when insulating walls indoors. However, the main criterion for choosing in its favor is its low cost. From the point of view of efficiency, foam plastic does not have the property of transmitting steam, and the result of its use in the absence of correct organization steam and hydro insulation, will become the so-called " the greenhouse effect»And the inevitable development of mold in rooms with similar walls.

Laying mineral wool

Insulation installation

Vapor barrier and wall waterproofing

Thermal insulation of wooden houses begins with waterproofing... This is the layer of special film closest to the bearing walls, the main task of which is to ensure air circulation and protection of the insulation layer from getting wet and freezing, preventing its destruction and preserving the tree from the development of mold bacteria.

Waterproofing is one of the most important points in wall insulation.

Waterproofing membrane

In the process of work, anti-condensation membranes, diffuse breathable films, polymer multilayer films, vapor barrier membranes are used. When waterproofing, it is important to maintain complete tightness.... For this, the film is overlapped, and nailed with a stapler and staples, and the seams are glued with mounting tape.

Vapor barrier is a finishing coat that is laid on top of mineral wool and serves to protect against the penetration of water vapor into the structure of the insulation.

Fastening is similar to the installation of waterproofing.

Vapor barrier

Conclusion

Thus, responsibly organized wall insulation of a log house can play an important role in the long and reliable operation of a wooden house. It will help reduce heat loss, as well as protect the load-bearing elements of the structure from all kinds of weather conditions.

However, the preparation of such an event should be approached responsibly. How well it will be carried out depends on the service life of your home.

Useful video

Tips for insulating a wooden house from the inside:

In contact with

The wooden house can rightfully be considered the pride of the owners. Wood retains heat well and provides a favorable microclimate in the room, has attractive design... However, in a number of cases, the heat-insulating properties of the material are not enough, therefore, the way out of the situation is to insulate the house.

Features of the procedure

The most widespread is the external insulation of the house. However, if it is impossible to fulfill it, you have to resort to thermal insulation of the house, bath or summer cottage from the inside. It should be noted right away that as a result of these manipulations, the useful area of the room in most cases decreases. An exception is made only for a log cabin, which requires only warming between wedges.

With internal thermal insulation of a house made of any material, the humidity in the room always increases. It is clear that this negatively affects the walls, especially wooden ones. If the insulation is incorrect, already in the first year of operation, the insulation will get wet and lose its thermal insulation properties, and the wooden surfaces will begin to rot and become covered with mold.

To avoid such phenomena allows mandatory installation vapor-permeable film and the creation of a powerful ventilation system.

When insulating a wooden house from the inside, it should be remembered that in terms of its effectiveness it cannot be compared with thermal insulation from the outside. This is due to the fact that the wall insulated from the inside does not accumulate heat, therefore the heat loss is 8-15%. Moreover, cut off from a warm room by heat-insulating material, such a surface freezes faster.

Another important point - A complex approach to isolation. It will be necessary to insulate not only the walls, but also the floor and ceiling. If the house has an unheated attic and a basement, then it is more rational to pay primary and main attention to these zones when insulating.

Colossal, up to 40%, losses of heat energy fall on windows and doors. It is important not only to use modern double-glazed windows and door leaves, but also to make sure of their correct and sealed installation, to take care of the insulation and protection of the slopes.

A common mistake when insulating a wooden house from the inside is keeping small gaps between surfaces, usually between floors and walls, walls and partitions, walls and ceilings. Such gaps are called "cold bridges" because heat escapes through them and cold air penetrates.

Characteristics of thermal insulation materials

For any heat-insulating material, the most important characteristic is the thermal conductivity index. The lower it is, the less heat loss the house carries. It is measured in W / m × ° С, which means the amount of heat energy leaving through the insulation per m2.

When choosing a heat-insulating material for wooden surfaces, one should pay attention to the vapor permeability indicators. The fact is that wood is itself a "breathing" material. It is able to pick up excess moisture from the air in the room, and in case of insufficient humidity, give it away.

It is easy to imagine that when using a non-vapor-permeable insulation, moisture from the tree will not find a way out and will remain between the heat-insulating material and the wood. This will turn out to be detrimental to both surfaces - a wet insulation has a high thermal conductivity, and the tree begins to rot.

Another important criterion for a heat insulator is moisture resistance. It is usually achieved by applying water repellents to the insulation and using a waterproofing film.

If we talk about a mezhventsov insulation, then it is impossible to close it with a waterproofing film, therefore the water resistance of the material, along with its thermal efficiency, comes to the fore when choosing a specific product. For indoor use, an environmentally friendly material should be chosen. It is important that it belongs to the class of non-flammable or does not support combustion, and also does not emit toxins when heated.

The biostability of a product directly affects its durability. If the insulation attracts insects or rodents, then in the process of their vital activity cracks and damage invariably appear in it, which causes the appearance of "cold bridges".

Among other paramount characteristics are ease of installation, a variety of forms of execution and options for density, thickness, and affordability.

What is better to insulate?

The most common option for insulating a wooden house is mineral wool insulation. Usually, glass wool or stone wool is used to organize the thermal insulation layer. The latter is superior to glass wool in terms of technical characteristics, but most importantly, it is absolutely environmentally friendly.

Glass wool emits toxic compounds during operation, therefore it is not recommended for indoor use. In addition, it has the worst indicators of moisture resistance and fire resistance (although it has high fire-fighting characteristics - the combustion temperature is 400-500 degrees). Finally, it is prone to shrinkage and a decrease in thickness (and this leads to an increase in thermal conductivity), when laying it requires the use of not only a respirator (like all mineral wool insulation), but also workwear.

In this regard, the use of stone or basalt wool is more attractive. The basis of the material is processed rock, which is subjected to high-temperature heating (over 1300 degrees). Then, thin fibers are isolated from the semi-liquid mass. In a chaotic manner, they are formed into layers, after which they are pressed and exposed to high temperatures for a short time.

The result is a material of different hardness, produced in mats, rolls and tiles. Mats are the most durable, suitable for heavily loaded structures, including floor insulation under the screed.

For wooden walls, in most cases, tiled basalt wool is sufficient, it is also placed between the logs of the wooden floor. Roll products are convenient to use when insulating flat horizontal surfaces such as the ceiling.

Thermal insulation properties are provided by the arrangement of fibers, between which air bubbles accumulate in large volumes - the best heat insulator. The coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material, depending on the density and grade, is 0.35-0.4 W / m × ° C.

In addition to high thermal insulation, the material demonstrates good performance noise absorption. Sound insulation coefficient impact noise reaches 38 dB, air - from 40 to 60 dB.

Unlike glass wool, basalt wool is characterized by low moisture absorption, which is 1% on average. In combination with high vapor permeability - 0.03 mg / (m × h × Pa), this allows you to protect the wood from decay and maintain a healthy atmosphere in the house. Melting temperature stone wool is about 1000 degrees, so it is considered non-combustible material... In addition, thanks to the naturalness of the composition, it is possible to achieve the environmental safety of basalt insulation.

Ecowool is also suitable for wall insulation. 80% of the material is cellulose chips, treated with fire retardants and antiseptics, the rest is polymer resins, modifiers.

Ecowool belongs to bulk materials, but it is also possible to spray it onto the surface using special equipment. Despite the treatment with water repellents, the material requires a waterproofing layer. In terms of its thermal efficiency, it is inferior to stone wool.

Modern material for insulation - penofol, also suitable for internal insulation. It is a roll of foamed polyethylene (provides thermal insulation effect) with a foil layer applied on one side (reflects thermal energy inside the room). The presence of a metallized layer increases the strength and moisture resistance of the material, but makes it combustible (class G1).

The well-known expanded polystyrene with similar thermal conductivity is not recommended for use inside a wooden house. The point is that the material "does not breathe". The tree, as you know, is characterized by the ability to take excess moisture from the room and give it away if necessary. In the presence of a polystyrene foam layer, the tree simply cannot get rid of excess moisture, which will lead to the onset of rotting. In addition, polystyrene is toxic and flammable, and often becomes a home for rodents.

If, nevertheless, it is impossible to refuse its use, preference should be given not to polystyrene, but to extruded polystyrene foam. It is more environmentally friendly and has a higher fire safety.

Another durable and heat-efficient material is polyurethane foam (PPU), at first glance, is the optimal insulation. The low coefficient of thermal conductivity, as well as the features of application (it is sprayed onto the surface) allow not only to reduce heat loss, but also eliminate the risk of "cold bridges". However, polyurethane foam does not "breathe" and, if, in the case of using expanded polystyrene, it is possible to organize a vapor barrier between a wooden surface and a heater, then when installing a polyurethane foam, it is impossible to create this layer. After 5-7 years, the walls under the polyurethane foam layer will begin to rot, and removing it is a rather laborious process.

For mezhventsovy insulation, special materials are used. They can be of natural or synthetic origin.

The following types of materials are referred to organic mezhventsovy heaters, which are most often used for internal thermal insulation:

Linen insulation

For a long time, coarse, unsuitable for weaving linen fibers were used for these purposes. Today, tape insulation is also made on a plant basis and is called linen felt or linen wool. Differs in high density, vapor permeability (optimal for rooms with high humidity).

Jute

Insulation is based on recycled bark fibers exotic tree the linden family of the same name. It is characterized by a high content of resins in the composition, which provides strength and high antibacterial properties of jute. It protects not only the space between the crowns, but also the wooden surface itself. However, a large amount of resin leads to inelasticity of the insulation. Over time, it becomes stiffer and seems to dry out, decreases in volume, which leads to the appearance of cracks. Neutralize this disadvantage allows the combination of jute with flax.

Felt

Natural wool material ( sheep's wool), thanks to which unsurpassed heat and sound insulation characteristics are achieved. It is processed with water repellents and compounds that prevent insects and microscopic life forms from appearing in the insulation.

Among materials of artificial origin, synthetic winterizer, polytherm (synthetic felt on a polyester basis) and PSUL are popular. It is noteworthy that the name "polytherm" originally denoted a certain material from a Finnish manufacturer. However, over time, the term has become a household name. Today, it designates both a specific manufacturer and a type of polyester insulation.

The abbreviation PSUL hides the following name - pre-compressed insulation. Its main ability is the property to shrink and expand in accordance with linear changes in the dimensions of the wood without losing its technical characteristics. In terms of thermal conductivity and moisture resistance, it exceeds the same values for natural insulation. At the same time, it is characterized by vapor permeability, biostability, environmental safety and fire resistance.

When insulating the seams between the joints, you should abandon the use of such heaters as tow and mineral wool due to their lower moisture resistance.

Manufacturers overview

When choosing insulation for a wooden house, it is worth giving preference to well-known, well-established brands.

The leading position among manufacturers is occupied by the company Rockwool(Danish brand, which is also produced in 4 cities in Russia). The assortment impresses with its variety. Each section of the house has its own product line. So, for the walls, mineral wool insulation "Butts Light" and "Scandic" will be optimal. There are innovative mats for walls of different stiffness within the same mat, roll and slab counterparts. The disadvantage is the high cost (on average, 1500 - 6500 rubles / m2).

Products from Germany are not inferior in quality - slab and roll mineral wool trade marks Knauf and Ursa... To insulate a room from the inside, it is enough to select materials with a density of 10-25 kg / m3. The price is within 1200 - 3000 rubles / m2.

Leading positions are also taken by French mineral wool insulation in plates, mats and rolls from the brand Isover... In the collections you can find both lightweight products (with a density of 10-20 kg / m3) and hard mats for frame houses(density 150-190 kg / m3). The cost is quite high - from 2,000 to 4,000 rubles / m2.

Mineral wool produced in Russia, for the most part, is not inferior to Western counterparts in terms of thermal efficiency, vapor permeability and fire resistance. However, it has a more affordable price tag. User reviews allow companies such as TechnoNikol, Izovol.

All the manufacturers mentioned above produce a type of thermal insulation wool that has improved sound insulation performance.

Among the best manufacturers of ecowool, it is worth noting firms Isofloc (Germany), Ekovilla and Termex (Finland), as well as domestic companies "Equator", "Ekovata Extra" and "Nanovata".

Finnish mezhventsovy insulation "PoliTerm" is rightfully considered one of the most optimal for operation in domestic conditions. In addition to improved thermal insulation qualities, it is distinguished by the presence of special curly elements for the design of joints, corners, transitions in the house.

Similar mezhventsovy thermal insulation material on a polyester basis produced by a Russian brand "Avatherm"... According to the manufacturer, due to the highest operational characteristics, the material can serve up to 100 years. Popular brands of sealant are Weatherall and Neomid - Warm Joint.

How to choose?

When choosing a material, it is important that its density corresponds to that required in a certain area of the house. In a number of cases (absolutely in all mineral wool products), the thermal conductivity, stiffness, weight and load bearing capacity material.

Usually, manufacturers indicate not only the density, but also the recommended scope of use of the material.

Pay attention to the storage conditions of the products. Mineral wool insulation should be stored in sealed original packaging, even slight soaking of the product is unacceptable. Expanded polystyrene is afraid of the sun's rays; under their influence, it begins to collapse.

Types of technology

Depending on the type of materials used, as well as the installation methods used, the following technologies for thermal insulation of a wooden house are distinguished:

Warm seam

It is used for mezhventsovy insulation of log houses, for sealing the joints between the laying of the foundation and the walls. Suitable for objects in which additional wall decoration from the inside is not provided. For insulation, special inter-lead insulators are used, as well as silicone sealants... The advantage this method is the lower labor intensity and cost of the process, the ability to preserve the natural beauty and vapor permeability of wooden coatings.

Insulation on the crate

It is provided for in the presence of interior wall decoration, as well as insufficient thermal efficiency of the inter-crown insulation. Without fail, it requires vapor barrier and walls and additional ventilation of the house, fastening the frame, fixing the insulation, continuous sheathing of the frame with plasterboard and attaching the finishing material to it. Such thermal insulation is effective, and so that there is no condensation, a gap is maintained between the insulation and the casing for air circulation.

How to do it yourself?

Regardless of the technology used, first of all the walls should be prepared... If you decide to do the work yourself, then you should start by cleaning them from dust, dirt, old coating. If cracks are found, they are treated with a sealant, all irregularities are cleaned. Before insulation, you should also remove all communications from the walls, check the wiring. Completes preparatory stage applying an antiseptic primer and fire retardants to the surface.
Installation vapor barrier film. It is attached to the entire surface with a gap of 10 cm and is fixed with construction tape. If financial possibilities permit, then instead of a vapor barrier film, it is better to use a more efficient vapor barrier membrane. Let us remind you once again that vapor barrier is only one of the components of maintaining optimal humidity and a favorable microclimate in a wooden house. The second required "component" is the ventilation system.

Creation wooden lathing , which is fixed to the walls of the house by means of brackets. The lathing is assembled from wooden logs, which are pre-treated with fire retardants and antibacterial compounds. The step of the lathing corresponds to the width of the insulation, and when using mineral wool products, it can even be 1-2 cm narrower. The most common, as already noted, insulation for wooden walls is mineral wool. Its layers are placed between the elements of the crate and fixed with dowels.
Chipboard installation or plasterboard sheets as a cladding layer. There is a small gap between the drywall sheets and the insulation layer, which provides better thermal insulation and allows the insulation to ventilate. If ecowool is used as a heat insulator, then they are immediately attached to the crate drywall sheets, and ecowool is already poured into the formed gap. Plasterboard sheets are putty in several layers with preliminary treatment of each layer with fine sandpaper. After applying the finishing layer of putty, you can start fixing the wall decorative coating - wallpapering, painting, etc.

Today on sale you can find mineral wool slabs with different thicknesses in thickness.

The part of the slab that is attached to the wall has a looser structure, the outer surface is more dense and stiff. Such materials are glued to the wall using special mixtures. Due to the high rigidity of the outer side of the insulation, it is possible to do without installing the lathing. The material is covered with glue, reinforcing fiberglass is attached to it, on top of which plaster is applied in several layers, and paint or decorative plaster is applied to it.

Wall cladding made of logs or timber looks somewhat different.

Immediately after the construction of the building, the primary insulation of the inter-crown gaps, which is also called caulking, is performed. To do this, a twisted inter-crown insulation is inserted into the gaps with a caulking knife or a spatula. Using synthetic materials a layer of sealant is applied over them.
After a year (it is after so much time that the house gives the maximum shrinkage), repeated caulking is carried out. First of all, the condition of the wooden surface itself is assessed. If chips and cracks are found, they are filled with the same elastic sealant. Next, they check the quality of the insulation of the seams between the joints. It is better if this is done not only "by eye", but also using a thermal imager.

If heat loss points are found, they will be caulked again. If additional insulation log walls is not provided, then the joints are re-processed with a sealant, now in decorative purposes... Modern lineups are characterized by wealth colors, so the user will be able to choose the mixture to match the logs. Another option to close the joints is to use jute braid, which has an attractive soft golden hue and looks harmonious with most types of wood.
If further thermal insulation of the walls is assumed, then the steps described above are performed (priming, creating a vapor barrier layer, installing the frame and fixing the insulation, fixing drywall, finishing). Ceiling insulation also implies the creation of a crate, under which a waterproofing coating is laid, for example, glassine. Further, with the help of self-tapping screws and special glue, the insulation is fixed to the ceiling. The next step is to cover the ceiling with plasterboard and finish cladding.

If there is a second floor, the ceiling is insulated. For interfloor overlap materials of increased rigidity are required.

If the attic in the house is of an unexploited type, then for its insulation you can use bulk materials(expanded clay, ecowool). For heated attics and attics, special basalt heaters of increased rigidity are produced. Insulation of maximum rigidity (from 150 kg / m3) is required for a flat roof.

When insulating the floor first of all, it should be leveled, laid with an overlap and with a small (up to 10 cm) "creeping" on the walls of the waterproofing membrane. After that, lay wooden logs in increments of no more than 50 cm. Mineral wool (or expanded polystyrene) is placed between the logs. The insulation layer is covered with a PVC membrane, on top of which the flooring is mounted (usually chipboard or plywood sheets).

Experts recommend carefully calculating the thickness of the material, since the indicators of its thermal efficiency depend on this. If the insulation layer is insufficient in the house, it will not be possible to reach the optimal temperature. An unnecessarily thick layer is not only unjustified financial costs, but also an additional burden on bearing structures, as well as changing the location of the "dew point".

The latter term denotes the boundary where the moisture escaping from the room in the form of vapor turns into liquid. Ideally, this should take place outside the insulation, however, if the thickness is incorrectly calculated and the installation technology is violated, the “dew point” may end up inside the insulation.

It is also wrong to insulate a wooden house from the inside and outside. The surface of the wood is between 2 vapor barrier layers, which disrupts the natural ventilation of the material and leads to the onset of putrefactive processes.

Professionals strongly recommend using outdoor insulation as more effective and correct for the operation of a wooden house. Insulation from the inside is an extreme measure. Thermal insulation work should be carried out in the warm season, in dry weather, since during this period the walls are as dry as possible. If you plan to insulate a newly built house, then you should wait a year. This is due to the shrinkage of wood objects.

When installing the battens, make sure that its pitch matches the dimensions of not only the insulation, but also the drywall sheets. Otherwise, additional slats will have to be stuffed - an extra load on the frame and an increase in labor intensity. The best option is to select sheets of insulation and drywall of similar dimensions.

Despite the cheapness of polystyrene, as well as its low heat transfer, refuse to insulate wooden walls with this material.

It has a low vapor permeability, which will lead to decay of the walls, an increase in humidity in the house, the appearance of condensation on the walls and mold on the finishing material.
It emits styrene hazardous to health, and therefore in some European countries there is a ban on the use of expanded polystyrene for interior decoration.
It is a flammable material that releases toxins when the temperature rises. When using foam in a wooden structure, you can create a real fire trap.

The sealant used for inter-crown insulation must be elastic and capable of shrinking and expanding during the shrinkage and thermal expansion of the wood. For use inside the house, the composition on acrylic base... If you need a more durable sealant, then acrylic with the addition of polyurethane foam is suitable. An important point is that such a sealant cannot act as an independent insulation.

The owners think about the need to insulate a wooden house at low temperatures in the rooms in winter, the appearance of dampness and mold on the walls, and the high cost of heating.

Professional builders recommend insulating the walls of buildings from the outside, but there are situations when this is unacceptable. In such cases, the thermal insulation is mounted indoors. Such work will be inexpensive. The article describes how to insulate the walls in a wooden house from the inside and outside.

Features of wall insulation in a wooden house

The wood used in construction has features that must be taken into account.

Wood is a vapor-permeable material; if used improperly, it dampens, becomes infected with a fungus, becomes covered with mold, and is destroyed by pests. Over time, the house settles in the logs or timber cracks appear.

Old log house, signs of aging of the outer walls are visible

Properly designed and installed system insulation reduces the negative impact to a minimum - otherwise, there is no need to talk about the durability of the structure.

Comparison of thermal insulation methods

Warming of wooden walls is possible from the inside and outside, each of the methods has advantages and disadvantages. To accept the right decision the information collected in the table will help about the method of installing thermal insulation.

Advantages	Flaws
Insulation inside the building
Preservation appearance Houses	The outer parts of the walls are not protected from adverse weather conditions
Can be combined with major or cosmetic repairs	The useful area of the rooms is reduced by the thickness of the insulating structure
Reconstruction does not depend on the season	The dew point is shifting into the building, condensation may form
No scaffolding required, one person can handle the job.	Loss of heat storage properties of wood
External thermal insulation
Useful area is preserved	The insulation protects exterior decoration- the volume of construction work is increasing
The dew point from wooden walls is shifted into the insulation layer - the walls do not collapse, there is no condensation in the rooms	Thermal insulation is carried out in warm time of the year
Thermal insulation using the ventilated facade method prevents the appearance of mold and mildew	Working at height will require strict adherence to safety measures. You can't work without assistants

Before deciding on the method of carrying out the work, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the options for how it is customary to insulate a wooden house from the inside or outside.

Material selection

To insulate the internal surfaces of the walls of a house and facades, many specialized insulation materials have been developed, each of which, however, requires proper use.

Insulation is supplied in the form of piece products or rolls.

When choosing, take into account:

price;
service life during which the performance characteristics and the geometric shape of the insulation;
fire and sanitary safety (availability of certificates);
thermal conductivity characteristics;
resistance to mechanical damage and climatic conditions.

Polystyrene has long been successfully used for thermal insulation of buildings. The mechanical properties and size of the sheets allow you to insulate the house with your own hands, and if you have skill, you can do without helpers. Two types are used in thermal insulation sheet material made of polystyrene. They differ in the manufacturing method.

Expanded polystyrene is commonly called polystyrene foam. Represents plates white... Balls of different sizes are visible on the fault.

Expanded polystyrene (foam)

Erudite polystyrene is most often light yellow or orange in color, it is denser than polystyrene.

Styrofoam

The material is well suited for insulating a wooden house.

Advantages:

light weight - 98% of the volume of the product is taken up by air;
preservation of dimensional accuracy during long-term operation;
low thermal conductivity;
the possibility of installation in different ways;
self-extinguishing within 4 seconds - without maintaining combustion with an open fire, the foam goes out.

Disadvantages of Styrofoam:

singles out toxic substances when heated above 80 about C;

easily damaged by mechanical stress;
quickly collapses under the influence of sunlight;
weak vapor permeability, which must be taken into account, and provide for the ventilation of the facades.

When buying insulation, it should be borne in mind that a material with a density of 15 kg / m 3 cannot bear a mechanical load, therefore it cannot be plastered. Polyfoam with a density of 25 kg / m 3 can be plastered and used for outdoor insulation. With a heater mass of 35 kg / m 3 and above, you can walk on it and most often the material is used for thermal insulation of floors. It is economically impractical to use foam with such a density for walls.

Extruded polystyrene

Insulation on sale is found under the names Penoplex, Penoplex. The sheets have grooves (grooves) along the edges, which allows them to be laid with an overlap. This excludes additional sealing of seams. The density of the material is higher than that of polystyrene, any extruded polystyrene can be plastered.

Joining of seams of extruded polystyrene

As with the use of polystyrene for insulating wooden houses, ventilated facades are arranged.

Mineral wool

Minvata is obtained by melting rocks. It consists of fibers, between which there is a large amount of air, which provides thermal insulation properties. It is supplied to trade organizations in rolls or in the form of plates of standard sizes.

Material advantages:

ease of installation;
affordable price;
does not support combustion;
high rates of heat and sound insulation;
environmental friendliness;
high vapor permeability comparable to wood;

The main disadvantage is the ability of mineral wool to absorb water, while losing its thermal insulation properties. Over time, the material cakes and shrinks, with a decrease in performance.

To reduce the effect of water and moisture from the air, mineral wool is protected with a special waterproofing film.

Glass wool

The structure of glass wool is similar to mineral wool, but inferior in characteristics and manufacturability. When exposed to water and humid air quickly loses its insulating properties. Over the course of several years, it cakes, which leads to a deterioration in performance. Installation of glass wool requires strict adherence to safety precautions - the smallest particles penetrate the lungs when breathing and get into the eyes, causing irritation of the mucous membranes.

Ecowool

The material is obtained from waste paper and cardboard when processing waste paper, as well as waste from the textile industry. The additives prevent ecowool from rotting, caking, combustibility, insects and rodents find the material unattractive for eating and nesting.

Ecowool application process

It is not possible to lay ecowool on your own - the material is sprayed, mixing with water with special installations.

Isoplaat

Sawdust fibreboards conifers made without the use of chemical components.

Isoplate sheets

The surface of the pressed sheets is treated with paraffin, which reduces the susceptibility to decay. The vapor permeability of the material is approximately equal to the characteristics of wood, which excludes the accumulation of condensate between the wall and the insulation. It is used for outdoor and internal way installation.

Foil insulation

The material is a foamed backing with a glued layer of aluminum foil. On sale it is found under the names Penofol, Izolon, Izodom, etc.

The material has several functions:

thermal insulation;
soundproofing;
waterproofing;
wind protection.

Foil insulation

The products are resistant to chemical, thermal, biological effects and decay. Installation is reduced to fixing on a wooden surface with a stapler or with the help of nailed rails. When using foil-clad materials, the insulation is nailed with a stapler, then the master has to decide how to sheathe the wall - drywall, forcing, plastic siding.

Warming process

Thermal insulation in a log house will be of high quality if you follow simple rules and sequence of manipulations. Deviation from the algorithm and incorrect alternation of layers will make the work results meaningless.

There are two ways: frame and frameless. They are applicable for outdoor and indoor use.

Frameless way

Without preliminary fabrication of the frame, it can be insulated with foam and extruded polystyrene, basalt mineral wool, Izolat - that is, materials with structural rigidity. The foil material also does not imply the structure of the frame, although it can be used as one of the layers of the "cake".

Before installing the insulation, the walls are thoroughly cleaned of dust and dirt. Cut or grind irregularities - the insulation should fit snugly to the base.

The simplest and quick way insulate the house - use Izolat plates. They are simply nailed with wide-headed nails or screwed on with self-tapping screws. From the tools you will need a hacksaw for cutting sheets to size, a hammer or a screwdriver. The surface of the slab is plastered or finished with siding. Absence finishing will lead to the destruction of sheets under the influence of climatic factors.

Polystyrene sheets are attached to a wooden base with self-tapping screws, using wide plastic washers. Under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, the foam quickly loses its mechanical properties, therefore, with external insulation, plastering work will need to be carried out within 20-30 days.

At the first stage, cement-based adhesives are used. Use a special assembly adhesive for expanded polystyrene or adhesive for ceramic tiles.

The surface of the foam is covered with a thin 1-1.5 mm layer of glue, a fiberglass mesh is applied and embedded in the applied solution. Re-apply and smooth adhesive composition... After drying, the base is treated with a primer and plastered using any compounds compatible with cement. For example, plaster bark beetle. Surface can be painted facade paints.

House insulation with basalt slabs

Warming with basalt slabs is carried out in a similar way.

Frame option

Frame method installation of insulation can be used for any materials, but it is mainly used for the installation of mineral wool. In the case of using foam, the grille can be used for fixing the finish on it, for example, siding.

Frame method of insulation

Installation sequence:

surface cleaning;
processing of wooden walls with a bioprotective primer (antiseptic) and fire retardants (fire retardant impregnation);
frame installation;
installation of insulation between the crate;
installation of a windproof membrane or plate;
installation of finishing.

An opinion is often expressed about the need to install a vapor barrier film between the beams of the walls and the insulation. Such a membrane can fulfill its purpose if it is a heater. For materials that are impervious to vapor, such a layer is useless - moisture will accumulate at the “wood-insulation” border, accelerating the decay process.

For roll materials, the sequence may be different:

surface preparation, chemical treatment;
fixing brackets on the surface of the wall, on which the crate will be attached in the future;
anchorage roll material using disc dowels.
Cutting holes in the mineral wool through which the brackets protrude outward;
Installation of a hydro-windproof membrane;
Fastening the topcoat to the frame.

By choosing the right heat-insulating material and observing the above rules, you can qualitatively insulate a wooden house from a bar or planks. Coziness on winter evenings and reduced energy bills will be a reward for work.