Rules for facing wooden pillars with bricks. Brick fence post: calculations and masonry technology

Brick is reliable and durable. This material looks attractive and presentable. But brick walls have one significant drawback: thermal conductivity. Even relatively warm ceramic material conducts heat well and does not sufficiently protect the building from the cold. In our climate, it will be necessary to build walls 64-90 cm thick to provide sufficient thermal resistance. A more rational option would be to manufacture the outer walls of the building from other materials with insulation and cladding. How to lay a house with facing bricks? It is not difficult if you know the technology and the nuances of work.

A house lined with brick looks solid and presentable, it is protected from wind and other unpleasant weather phenomena. This finishing option is used both for houses made of lightweight concrete and for wooden houses.

How to choose a facing brick for a house

Before laying a house with a brick, you should carefully choose the material. It is important to select the cladding not only by cost, but also by technical characteristics and properties.

Most often, ceramic bricks are used in construction. This material has fairly good (compared to other types) thermal insulation performance. The disadvantage in this case will be high hygroscopicity. The technology involves the use of both ordinary ordinary material and special front material.

Ceramic brick is simple, durable and unpretentious in operation

In the first case, it is strongly recommended to treat the outer surface after laying with a hydrophobic composition. The front brick does not need such processing. The composition for processing is chosen with sufficient vapor permeability. This is especially important when finishing with bricks. wooden house. It is required that the impregnation does not form a film on the surface that prevents the walls from being permeable to air and steam. Which brick to choose for frost resistance? The brand must be at least F35 according to the standards, and not below F50 according to the recommendations of the builders.

Another popular option is silicate material. It is the cheapest, but does not differ in durability. Facing a house with a brick of this type conducts heat well and absorbs moisture. Most often, silicate is heavier than ceramic. This option is not recommended for finishing log house(we also include a frame house and a log house).

Silicate brick is less durable than ceramic, but for 20-30 years you can not remember the problem

For do-it-yourself brick finishing, you can use clinker material. It is specially designed for house cladding, therefore it has low moisture permeability and high strength. Clinker finish looks attractive, but this pleasure is not cheap: prices are on average 50-150% higher.

Undoubtedly, clinker brick - the best choice among all options. You can choose almost any color and shades

How to overlay a wooden house with bricks

Brick and wood have too different characteristics, therefore, in the process of work, certain difficulties may arise. Facing a wooden house with brick must necessarily provide for sufficient ventilation of the main part of the wall. Otherwise, the wood will begin to rot or become moldy.
Before you overlay the house with facing bricks, you should carefully examine the wall cake. Three-layer walls with brick cladding in this case will include:

wooden bearing part;
vapor barrier;
insulation;
waterproofing and wind protection;
ventilation gap min. 50-60 mm;
brick lining.

1 - ventilation layer; 2 - fixing the cladding to the wall; 3 - facing brick; 4 - add. insulation with a windproof membrane; 5 - vapor barrier; 6 - finishing; 7 - thermal insulation; 9 - log wall

It is important not to confuse vapor barrier and waterproofing. The latter must be permeable to steam so that it freely leaves the insulation and bricks into the ventilation gap. It is recommended to use modern vapor-diffusion windproof membranes.

To ensure the free movement of air, cladding with bricks wooden house, it is necessary to provide air vents in the lower part and outlets in the upper part. Mineral wool is recommended as thermal insulation. It is characterized by low cost, ease of installation and good air permeability.

Before you properly overlay a wooden house with bricks, you must definitely wait for the walls to shrink. This process can take a couple of years, so the easiest way is to impose an old house.

Pros and cons

In construction, it is very difficult to combine materials of different properties. In this case, there are always nuances and negative sides. Finishing the facade with brick for a wooden structure has three disadvantages:

reduced ventilation, the likelihood of moisture accumulation in the insulation;
different shrinkage of wall parts, which does not allow to rigidly connect the cladding and the main wall;
the high mass of brick compared to wood (more than 3 times) makes it necessary to build more powerful and expensive foundations.

In general, we can say that it is better to finish the old house with bricks. For new construction, it is recommended to consider other more economical and efficient options.

But the technology has its advantages:

improvement of thermal performance (especially when using ceramics);
reducing the level of fire danger;
reliable and durable protection of wood from negative atmospheric phenomena.

Technology

Facing the facade of the house with brick is carried out after treating the wood with an antiseptic. The composition for impregnation should be chosen special - for outdoor work. It will protect the wall from mold, fungus and other dangerous microorganisms. Further to the wall construction stapler attach a vapor barrier. Installation is carried out with an overlap of at least 10 cm.

A vapor barrier located on the inside of the wall will prevent moisture vapor from entering the insulation from the room.

Facing the facade with brick begins with the installation of the crate. The dimensions of the frame bars depend on the required thickness of the insulation. The thickness of the insulation can be chosen approximately, based on the recommendations of neighbors or the Internet, but it is better to use a special calculation. With the help of a fairly simple Teremok program, even a non-professional can make a heat engineering calculation. You only need to know the thickness of the wooden wall and its thermal conductivity, as well as the thermal conductivity of the selected insulation. Brick (and all layers after ventilation gap) are not included in the calculation.

The frame bar is attached to the walls with screws or nails. Next, the house needs to be sheathed with insulation. Mineral wool is laid tightly between the crate. To do this, the distance between the bars should be 2-3 cm less than the width of the insulation.

On top of the insulation, waterproofing and wind protection are fixed. Fastening is carried out on a construction stapler. After such preparation, they proceed directly to laying the house with bricks.

The hydro-windproof membrane protects the insulation from wind and moisture, but does not prevent excess water vapor from escaping from the wall to the outside.

The thickness of a brick verst is usually 120 mm. This is not enough to ensure stability, so the wall must be connected to the main part of the outer structure.

This can be done in two ways:

Fastenings are located in the places of passage load-bearing frame

Finishing installation technology is also relevant for frame buildings. The only difference is that the connections between the wall and the outer materials are attached to the frame studs. In all cases, it is necessary to veneer taking into account the ventilation gap.

Reinforcement

To brick a building, it is recommended to provide for reinforcement of the finish. To increase strength and rigidity, a wire mesh with a diameter of 3-4 mm and cells of 50x50 mm is used. The mesh is laid in the seams between the horizontal rows. The frequency depends on the brick:

lining the building with a single brick (65 mm high) - every 5 rows;
one and a half (height 88 mm) - every 4 rows.

The dimensions of the seams with and without reinforcement should be the same. For control, the grid on one side is slightly taken out of the masonry. This option increases reliability, but increases the cost and complexity of the work.

How to clad a house made of lightweight concrete

A lined house in this case can be built from aerated concrete, gas silicate, foam concrete, cinder blocks, expanded clay concrete. A house made of facing bricks is less breathable than the listed materials. For this reason, as in the previous case, it is necessary to provide for a ventilation gap.

The installation method is very similar to a wooden house. The only difference is that you can use rigid connections between the wall and the cladding. The minimum number of links is 3 pcs. per 1 sq.m. Ties are not allowed to be laid in the seams of the main wall, they are nailed to the surface.

When erecting a building from fragile cinder blocks, it is recommended to erect a frame that will take on the load from floors and other building structures. In this case, the walls will be self-supporting. Finishing the house with facing bricks is attached to the cinder block very carefully.

Your house, lined with brick - it's beautiful and reliable. But when carrying out work, certain recommendations must be followed.

The land is traditionally surrounded by a fence. The fence is made from different materials. One option is a fence with a base of brick pillars with corrugated spans, forged items, wooden fence or brickwork. Such a fence looks solid, it reliably protects the territory and is decorative with its finish.

The brickwork of the pillars is simple enough for self-manufacturing, if you get acquainted with the technology of erecting such supports. Consider the details of this type of construction work.

Peculiarities

A fence with brick pillars provides the necessary level of security from unwanted intrusions into the estate. Corrugated or masonry spans supported by brick pillars can add impermeability and reliability to the protective function of the fence.

Forged and wooden spans will give external lightness to the structure, while maintaining the necessary level of isolation from the external environment.

Brick supports are durable and weather resistant. They are sufficiently resistant to increased payload to install massive gates with automatic sliding or mechanical swing devices.

To extend the life of the pillars, they need to be covered with caps made of metal or concrete. It should be borne in mind that concrete caps have a greater variety of shapes, but they themselves are destroyed by changes in temperature and humidity.

Metal caps better isolate the brickwork from moisture.

Fencing on brick pillars, providing a sufficient level of protection, is more affordable than completely brick fence. Types of bricks, masonry pattern and span material give a lot of room for decorative creativity in the design of such a fence. Brick pillars can be safely equipped electric cable to organize the lighting of individual poles, which will be convenient for the owners and serve as an additional decor.

Types of structures

To build a fence with brick supports, you need to decide on the type and height of the structure. The optimal height of the supports is chosen about two meters, then the pillar is laid out with a width of 1.5 bricks, together with the seams, this is equal to 38 centimeters.

If necessary, you can increase the height to 3-4 meters, then it is better to lay the masonry in two or more bricks. In this case, the size of the column will be about 50 by 50 centimeters. The span width ranges from 2.5 to 6 meters, the dimensions are selected according to the relief or according to the composition of the fence.

The type of foundation depends on the type of construction: tape or point. For spans of lighter materials, a point foundation is chosen for brick columns, for heavy ones, a strip foundation.

Spans of corrugated board - the most common option.

Advantages:

Such a fence has an external conciseness and ease of installation.
You can choose the one you want color scheme.
With such spans, geometric caps look beautiful.
Easy to install gate.

Under this type of fence, a strip foundation is made. You can stop at point supports, but wear resistance and decorative qualities will be reduced.

For a fence with forged inserts, you can also use the first and second versions of the supports. Of course, forging gives the fence artistic value and emphasizes the well-being of the owners. A strip foundation with several rows of bricks will give solidity to the fence. The airiness of the structure appears when the strip foundation is abandoned, but the durability functions are preserved, reliable protection and decorative.

The fence can be completely lined with brick or torn decorative stone, such fences are made on a reinforced foundation, they reliably isolate the territory of land ownership. For decorative effect perform combined fences.

After choosing the type of fence, proceed to the selection of material.

Material selection

The material for spans is chosen according to the degree of protection required: for better insulation - profiled sheet or brick, for a decorative effect - metal forging, in rural farmsteads, wooden or metal fence as protection against cold winds and unwanted intrusions.

The material of the fence should be in harmony with the architecture of the outbuildings and the general concept of the design of the site. Classic mansions look harmonious with wrought iron or stone fences. It is better to enclose an ethnic-style house with a fence using a wooden picket fence. In areas where poultry or other animals are kept, solid corrugated fences will be optimal.

In modern minimalist trends, it is better to use a fence with a minimum of decor. Simple and graceful. Such fences are decorated with spans of special glass or plastic.

Brick for posts is selected based on the overall design of the fence. For the first two or three rows, an ordinary clay brick is required, then a hollow one or the same as in the bottom row is used. To enhance the decorative effect, the columns are laid out clinker brick or facing bricks of the desired color in various combinations.

Embossed brick gives more expressiveness to the architecture of the fence. Decorative trim can be applied only on the front side of the fence, and the inside can be left in the form of a simple brickwork. This will provide significant savings.

By the number of pillars, steel pipes are purchased, which will become a vertical axis for reinforcing brickwork. It should be noted that in the pillars for gates and gates, supporting reinforcement is purchased with a reinforced profile. Reinforcement will be required to strengthen the foundation, its quantity is calculated based on the need for a tape or point location.

Building fillers will be needed: cement, sand, crushed stone or expanded clay. It will be necessary to stock up on boards for the manufacture of formwork. Since the brick absorbs moisture very well, and when it freezes, it destroys the structure of the material, all brick structures will have to be protected from soil moisture, so waterproofing material will be needed.

Quantity calculation necessary materials produced according to the length of the fence, the step of the brick supports and their size.

For a standard column of one and a half bricks 2 meters high, 110 bricks are required.

Laying technology

Sequencing:

The first step is to mark the contour of the fence with twine. In places of future supports, pegs are driven in. For a pile foundation, according to the marks with pegs, using a drill, a hole is made 30-35 centimeters wide and 80 centimeters deep for sandy soil, and for clay soil - up to a freezing layer plus 20 centimeters.

In central Russia, it is best to maintain a depth of 1 meter or 1 meter 20 centimeters. A bucket of rubble is poured into this pit and tamped down. Formwork is made according to the diameter of the pit, it is possible to roll a tube of the desired diameter from the roofing material. A steel pipe is inserted into this formwork and poured with a cement mixture.

A mixture of cement and sand is made in a ratio of 1: 5 or 1: 6; for plasticity, you can add a little liquid soap. The solution should not be liquid and not dry, so water is added gradually. The upper part of the foundation is poured into the formwork along the width of the column. For a strip foundation, a trench 50 cm deep and 40 cm wide is dug between the posts.

After pouring the foundation, brickwork is started no earlier than 2 weeks later. Foundation surface is covered waterproofing material so that the brick does not absorb moisture from the soil. Here you can apply roofing material, but a more modern material is bitumen-based waterproofing.
Mortgage corners, eyelets for a gate canopy are welded onto a steel pipe, or transverse pipes are welded to secure the span material - picket fence, profiled sheet or forging.

The next stage of work is brickwork. Here you need to carefully consider the quality of the solution, its density. For testing, put a little mortar on the brick, it should not spread. Bricks are laid according to the masonry pattern with dressing through a row around steel pipe. The first and second rows are laid with ordinary full bricks, for the following you can use lightweight hollow ones.

A layer of cement mortar 1 centimeter thick is applied to the waterproofing, and bricks are laid on this layer, each brick is tapped for compaction with a rubber mallet. For uniform adhesion to the mortar, the brick is pre-dipped in water. It is better to measure each row with a tape measure, since a shift of even a few millimeters in each row can lead to a skew of the post or expansion by several centimeters.

Each side should be regularly checked with a level to avoid deviation from the vertical.

If desired, you can do decorative trim seams, usually a dye or textured crumb is added to the cement mortar, and after the masonry is completed, the seams are separately coated. This gives accuracy and completeness to the entire building.
After laying the entire column, the middle part around the pipe is filled with mortar, it can be filled with gravel and poured with a more liquid solution. The top is again covered with a waterproofing layer.

A cap made of metal or concrete is fixed to the top of the structure. Manufacturers offer a wide variety of shapes, colors and materials for the manufacture of such caps. A simple rectangular cap can be made from a sheet of metal yourself according to a pattern. The color is selected according to the color of the fence design.

If the project provides for combined masonry, then you must carefully select the dimensions of the main and finishing bricks. If the brick pillar gets off natural stone, then after the masonry has dried, a finishing layer is applied.
The next stage consists in hanging the material of the span: profiled sheet, metal grating, picket fence or laying out the span with decorative bricks.
The final type of work is the installation of gates and gates, installation of lighting.

A few tips for doing masonry will help you do it efficiently even for a novice master:

To ensure that the seams between the rows of bricks are of the same thickness, a metal bar of the desired diameter is laid along the edge. Cement mortar is leveled on it, bricks are laid on top, tapped with a rubber mallet, then the rod is removed and laid on the next row.

fencing personal plot performs several functions: delimitation, protection of the territory from outsiders and the creation of a single picture with the house. Therefore, the fence must be not only durable, but also aesthetically attractive. The optimal and relatively budgetary construction would be a foundation for a fence with brick pillars, laying the pillars themselves and filling the spans with a material of your choice - board, corrugated board, chain-link mesh or forged decorative elements. The combination of two materials will make the fence attractive and allow the owner to choose the filling of spans at his discretion, based on overall design and estimated budget.

Calculations and preparation for work

First stage preparatory work- calculation of the number of pillars for the future fence. Usually they are installed with a distance of 3 meters from each other. But, if the length of the site exceeds 150–200 meters, it is increased to 4. This is due to the high costs of installing brick pillars at such a distance.

For an accurate calculation, first determine the location of the corner posts, entrance gate and gate. After that, the distance between them is divided into spans of the accepted size.

The height of the pillars usually varies from 2 to 2.5 meters. These are the optimal dimensions suitable for filling spans with mesh or corrugated board. It is not recommended to make a fence above - for this you will need to deepen and strengthen the foundation so that it can withstand the effects of the wind. This is especially true if the spans are made of corrugated board, which has a large windage.

Scheme for calculating the deepening of the pillars and the distance between them

After a preliminary calculation of the supports around the perimeter, a rope is pulled and stakes are driven in at the sites of future pillars. The calculation of the amount of materials for the pillars and the preparation of the foundation will depend on the choice of the type of foundation and the method of laying bricks.

Foundation pouring

by the most simple type the foundation is strip-columnar. For its construction, after marking the territory along its perimeter, a trench is torn off with a depth of 30 cm and a width of about 40 cm. In places of pillars, 90 cm deepenings are made of bricks. The total depth of the pit for the support will be 120 cm. This will prevent its displacement and destruction.

Trench excavation can be done manually or with the use of machinery. Experienced craftsmen recommend the first option - the work will be much more accurate, but the time costs will increase by about 2 times.

Scheme of the foundation for brick pillars

The trench is reinforced with metal rods with a diameter of 14–18 mm. This will further increase the strength of the foundation and compensate for the load during subsidence of the soil. In places of brick pillars, metal profiles or pipes are installed. The pouring of the foundation begins with the recesses for the pillars. Using the building level, the vertical position of the pipe or profile is controlled, after which the rest of the tape is poured.

A fence with brick pillars on a strip foundation is considered the best option- it combines reliability and relatively small time and financial costs.

More reliable, but costly in terms of materials, will be the design of the grillage foundation. The grillage is the upper part of the foundation, which consistently fastens the pillars or piles. Rostverk is also present in strip-column foundation but it is at ground level.

For its device, formwork is mounted - 30 cm from the ground along the perimeter of the excavated trench. Reinforcement is carried out as in the case of a strip foundation, after which the formwork is poured with concrete.

After pouring the foundation, 2 or 3 weeks should pass for it to dry completely. Then you can build brick pillars for the fence.

Preparation of the solution - proportions and rules

Proportions for the preparation of the solution, depending on the brand of cement

Sand and cement are the main components of the solution. The proportion for mixing is standard: 1 part of cement, 5 or 6 parts of sand. The latter is better to choose a small fraction. The higher the brand of cement, the better the solution will be. It is advisable to choose at least M400. Some craftsmen add detergent or liquid soap for hands - this provides better plasticity of the solution.

To facilitate mixing, sand and cement are first mixed in a dry state and then water is added. The main thing is to choose the optimal ratio - the solution should not blur, but not be dry.

For decoration, special additives are added to the solution, which are sold in hardware stores. For example, it can be simple soot. A small amount will give the solution an almost black color, which will emphasize the light brick.

Which brick to choose

Silicate brick of various shades

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer fence construction and design services. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

One of the main tasks in the construction of the fence will be the choice of the main material - brick. It should not only ensure the reliability and strength of the building, but also have an attractive appearance. The modern market offers the following types of bricks:

silicate;

ceramic;

clinker;

hyperpressed.

Classic options - silicate and ceramic. The first one is made from quartz sand the second is made of clay. These are versatile options, have good strength and moisture resistance. One of the main characteristics of a brick is the number of freeze/thaw cycles. According to this indicator, clay brick is inferior to silicate brick, which can withstand up to 60 cycles without loss of performance.

Clinker brick is the most durable of the types presented. Produced from refractory clays high temperature. Withstands up to 150 freeze and thaw cycles. Excellent technical characteristics are combined with a variety of colors and shades. Buildings made of this material, subject to all technologies, retain their strength and aesthetic characteristics for 100 years. The only negative is the price is higher than for silicate and ceramic.

Hyperpressed or Lego brick. Due to the high pressure treatment, the particles of the material are bound at the molecular level, which provides it with strength on a par with clinker.

Any of the listed types can be used to build brick pillars for the fence. The main selection criterion will be the financial issue.

Video description

How to choose a quality brick for laying pillars, look at the video:

brick masonry technology

Before laying, roofing material or special waterproofing is laid under the bricks. It will not allow direct contact with water.

Depending on the width of the brick pillar for the fence, there are two most popular masonry methods:

one and a half bricks;

laying in two bricks.

In the first case, a column of 380x380 mm is obtained, in the second - 510x510 mm. The first option is more advantageous in terms of solution consumption. The support profile for the post is usually taken 80x80 mm. This will greatly reduce the gaps between it and the masonry and require less mortar to fill them. In the second case, the support will turn out to be more solid and massive, but it will require filling gaps large quantity solution.

Laying a pillar in one and a half and two bricks

Bricks are laid according to the scheme. With the help of the building level, the horizontal and vertical plane is controlled. The next layer of brick overlaps the seams of the previous one. The gaps between the iron support and the masonry are filled with mortar and compacted.

To obtain perfectly even seams, metal rods of round or square section with a diameter of up to 10 mm are used. Such rods are laid around the perimeter of the first row of bricks from the outer edge. The site is filled with a solution with some margin to the center. The brick is laid on the bar with one side, and the second is aligned along building level. After filling the vertical seams, the procedure is repeated with the next row. The bars are removed from the previous row. This technology will allow you to control the laying and make the seams neat and even.

After the brick pillars have been erected to a given height, a decorative cap is installed on the end. Various options can be found in stores building materials. The cap can be metal, ceramic or concrete. It is installed on the masonry mortar. The cap will protect the poles from moisture and precipitation.

Video description

See the video for the technology of laying brick pillars:

Fence and gate installation

At the stage of laying the pillars, it is necessary to determine the material for the spans. If metal materials are chosen as materials (corrugated board, forged gratings), and also if the choice fell wooden fence with brick pillars, then they are welded to the support posts of the pillars at the same height metal elements for the installation of horizontal jumpers. For reliable fastening, two jumpers are constructed.

In those places where gates and gates are located, it is recommended to install three jumpers for reliable fastening of the wings, since these elements are constantly under load and are used.

Scheme of installation of corrugated board between brick pillars

An alternative to the listed materials would be laying a brick fence between the pillars. This is a more laborious and lengthy process. Each subsequent row must be aligned in a horizontal and vertical plane. The foundation for such a fence must be strong in order to hold a mass of bricks.

The advantages of this type of fence - the possibility of using various bricks in color and texture, which will give the fence an attractive look and personality.

Photo examples of fences with brick pillars

Pillar of light and dark bricks combined with simple forging

Light brick in combination with openwork forged gates looks elegant

Fence of light-colored brick pillars and dark wooden planks

Combination yellow brick and dark brown corrugated board - one of the most common options

Yellow brick and green corrugated board are also a current option.

Budget option for a fence with brick pillars - using a chain-link mesh

Conclusion

Pillars made of bricks for the fence - the most common and affordable option. The variety of types and various options for filling spans will help you choose the most suitable for a particular site and house design. A properly arranged foundation and high-quality masonry work will make the fence a reliable fence that will last for decades.

The question: “Is it possible to brick a wooden house?”, Which interests many owners of private real estate, is not at all idle. Wood and brick have completely different thermal conductivity values - and this can create certain problems.

We will try to provide comprehensive answers to all relevant questions related to this topic. Your attention will be offered instructions for installing a decorative brick wall, and the video in this article can be used as a visual aid.

Do you need brick cladding for a wooden house

Facing a wooden house with bricks can be considered either as an aesthetic design option for walls built from low-grade wood, or, if the building is old and in need of major repairs, as an opportunity for constructive renovation. In other situations, the choice of this type of finish simply does not make sense.

So:

Walls erected from solid thick logs or glued beams, and well caulked, do not need to be reinforced, or additionally insulated, or even additionally finished. In addition, brick is a cold material, which can cause condensation to form on it. The tree will begin to get wet due to the accumulation of vapors that fall under the lining not from the outside, but from the inside of the house - and, accordingly, rot.

Particularly at risk are those who carry out the cladding without providing for a ventilation gap between vertical surfaces, and technological products for fumes to escape. It is also not recommended to mount on wooden surface an impermeable roll membrane, as it will become an obstacle to steam, and it will no longer condense on the lining, but on the film.

It is also bad that the brick lining of a wooden house cannot be carried out during the construction process, as is done during the construction of brick and block walls. A house made of timber or logs shrinks the most, and if there is such a need, it is possible to clad the outer walls no earlier than a year - and preferably a couple of years after construction is completed. But what nuances should be foreseen in this case, you will learn from the next chapter.

Primary requirements

In order to be able to produce brick cladding, when laying the foundation of a building, it is necessary to take into account the distance necessary to support the masonry. With a decorative wall thickness of half a brick, taking into account the size of the ventilation gap, the free console of the foundation tape should be 15-16 cm.

Although, according to the norms, a brick can hang from a support by 4 cm, so a distance of 12 cm will also be enough. For a quarter-brick wall, it decreases accordingly.

If you decide to lay a heater inside the structure, the width of the foundation will have to be increased in accordance with the thickness of the material, not forgetting the gap. In order not to have to get out later, to top up the foundation, because of which the price of the structure only increases, such things must be foreseen and calculated in advance.

Note! The brickwork itself perfectly protects the walls from wind blowing and atmospheric precipitation, so no roll membranes can be mounted inside. The only way atmospheric water can get inside the structure is by flowing down from the roof overhangs.

And it gets there through a technological gap, which is left between the last row of brickwork and the cornice. Therefore, when it is planned to brick a wooden or any other house, first of all, you should measure the width of the cornice overhangs.

If they are more than 35 cm, then everything is in order - if less, then the installation of a ventilated facade for such a building should not be considered at all. In this case, if you really want the facade of the house to look no worse than brick, it is better to give preference facade panels under the brick, which we see in the photo.

Believe me, making such a finish with your own hands is much easier than expanding the foundation, and then laying out and reinforcing a decorative wall.

Base for brick cladding

Many are interested in whether it is possible to brick a wooden house if it has a frame structure?

We will answer right away: for a frame house, this type of finish is the most preferable. In such a building, only the frame is wooden, which is filled with insulation and covered with sheathing sheet material.

Its walls are a multilayer structure, in which both vapor barrier and wind protection are necessarily present:

Condensation practically does not form in them, therefore, it is not necessary to be careful, as in the case of a bar or log. The only problem is that frame houses are more often placed on point supports: piles, monolithic or block pillars - this allows you to reduce labor costs and the cost of the building.

Since the walls of a frame house are very light, even channel piping is not always done under them, but it is made from timber. But for brick cladding a stronger support is required: strip foundation, concrete or metal grillage. In this case, the brick cladding of a wooden house, which is carried out during its operation, begins with the construction of a foundation for cladding.
It can be either a slightly buried concrete tape, or metal piles screwed around the outer perimeter of the house and tied with a channel with wide shelf. Of course, all these are additional costs, and they make sense only when dilapidated and unpresentable appearance a wooden building that has been in operation for a long time, requires constructive intervention.

Under the brick cladding of a newly built house, the support must be provided at the design stage. After all, even with a sufficient budget, no one wants to throw extra money down the drain.

How to make a support

Be that as it may, if existing foundation does not allow brickwork to be supported on it, you will have to deal with the design of an additional support. The easiest way, of course, is to pour a concrete tape - or even better, make a full-fledged concrete blind area around the perimeter of the house.

The rules in force in construction allow leaning brick cladding on the blind area - if, of course, it is made in accordance with all the rules.

This is very convenient, because in order for surface moisture not to contact the walls of the house, or if the pile foundation does not stagnate under it, a blind area is still needed. Yes, and the landscape of the backyard benefits significantly when there is a beautiful blind area around the house.

In principle, it is arranged in a similar way to a shallow strip foundation - the difference is only in the width of these structures, and even in a slight slope, which is always present on the blind area. The only thing is that in the blind area, which is to become a support for the masonry, the slope does not start from the existing wall, but from the outer surface of the decorative brick wall.
The width of a flat area is calculated in the same way as if it were a strip foundation. Otherwise, everything is done in the same way as in the diagram above. This is the easiest way out - unless, of course, your house is in a swamp, or heavily freezing heaving soil.

In such situations, houses are usually placed on piles, and a blind area is made of monolithic concrete there is no point - for a long time in such conditions it still will not last. Then, under the cladding, you will also have to mount pillars or piles, and the channel welded to their heads will serve as a support for the brickwork.

Construction of a decorative wall

For lining wooden walls a variety of types of bricks can be used: silicate, ceramic, hyper-pressed. But most often they use a front brick - colored or with a relief applied to one spoon and one bond face.

So:

It would be somehow illogical to lay out the walls of ordinary brick, which then will also have to be plastered. It is easier then to mount a warm plaster facade on the walls, in which the plaster is applied to the surface of rigid polystyrene foam boards.

When the wall thickness is provided in half a brick (125 mm), hollow bricks are used to facilitate masonry. With a wall thickness of a quarter of a brick (65 mm), it is laid on an edge, so a full-bodied brick is already needed here.

The masonry technology, as such, in this case is no different from the construction of ordinary walls: in the same way, a roofing material should be laid under the first row, and to control the horizontalness of the rows, a mooring cord is pulled.

Binding masonry to a wooden wall

The only difference is that here you need to not only reinforce the masonry in every fourth row, but also tie it to existing wall. There are a lot of reinforcement methods, and the master usually selects the most suitable option, based design features building walls.

To attach the masonry to solid wood, you can use dowels with wire tied to them. But, according to many experts, for tying brick cladding to any existing wall, direct suspensions, which are usually used in installation, are best suited. suspended ceilings. They are fixed to the wall by installing expansion anchor bolts.

One edge of the suspension is laid so that it overlaps a little more than half the wall thickness, and the other end is folded in accordance with the distance to the main wall. Thanks to the perforation on the hanger, it is easy to bend it into the desired position.
The bend is carried out so that the mounting hole is on the wall of the house. Directly through it, drilling is carried out for fasteners, and then the anchor is driven into the finished holes with hammer blows. Even if the shoulder of the suspension rises a little after driving the anchor, it's okay: it is quite flexible, and its edge can be easily inserted into the masonry and clamped with a brick.

Such fasteners should be located close enough to each other - through one brick. Taking into account the vertical joints of the masonry, it turns out something about 65 cm. In a frame house, anchors can only be hammered in vertical racks and only 60 cm between them.

So that the missing five centimeters do not create problems, the brick cladding is tied to the frame of the house using masonry mesh. You can see this option in the photo above, and we think that everything is clear without words.

Building a house from one brick in our climate is not the most best idea: its thermal conductivity is too high, which is why the walls must be thick. And here's how to use it finishing material- this is already more economically justified: facing the house with bricks, with proper insulation, will help to save on heating, and the appearance will give the building a "capital". If the walls are made of foam block or other light and warm building blocks, then such a finish will also be windproof. Wooden houses are also covered with bricks, but in this case there are some peculiarities: it is necessary to ensure the removal of vapors from the wood, otherwise mold, fungus and expensive repairs with a complete overhaul of the finish.

What brick to use

Facing bricks are produced according to different technologies owing to which it has different characteristics and prices:

Ceramic. Of all the finishing, it is the most inexpensive. Of the minuses, high hygroscopicity can be called: 6-15%, depending on the technology and batch. When water gets into the pores, it expands when it freezes, causing destruction, the brick begins to crumble. Even a special finishing one, in which the bed (the part that turns out to be outside) is specially protected at the factories. Exit - after laying, cover the wall with a hydrophobic composition. Only those that do not form a vapor barrier film. When choosing, pay attention to this: excess moisture must be removed. Frost resistance of ceramic facing bricks is 25-75 cycles (how many times it tolerates freezing / freezing without deterioration in quality). The higher this figure, the higher the price. This is explained by the high production costs.
Hyperpressed or non-fired. This type of facing brick is obtained not by firing, but by pressing. It no longer contains clay, but lime with various fillers and pigments. The possibility of using pigments allows you to get a wide range of colors. The front surface is often non-linear, imitating wild stone. Looks decorative. But such a nonlinearity threatens with delamination: uneven surface, water flows more abundantly into the pores, freezes in frosts. This is treated in the same way as in the case of ceramics: hydrophobic impregnation. Frost resistance of high-quality non-fired bricks is declared by manufacturers from 75 to 150 cycles.
Clinker. This brick is also ceramic, but a special technology gives it very high strength and density. A denser material absorbs water much worse. This is good for operation, but when laying it leads to difficulties: in order for the wall not to “float”, it is necessary to put it on a hard, low-plastic mortar, and it is more difficult to work with it. Another disadvantage that limits wide use material of excellent characteristics: compared to previous materials, it is expensive: prices are 50-150% higher, depending on the manufacturer. Frost resistance of clinker is from 100 to 150 cycles. Clinker cladding of a house with bricks is an expensive pleasure, but the most attractive in appearance.
Silicate. The cheapest, but also the most "quickly deteriorating" of facing bricks: its frost resistance is 25-50 cycles. It conducts heat better. Not much, but still: the average thermal conductivity of ceramic is 0.16, silicate is 0.18. In addition, it is heavier: on average, the weight of ceramics is 2.4 kg, silicate of the same size is 3 kg. More weight requires a more powerful foundation and the price gain (silicate is cheaper) is not so big. If we take into account that heating costs will also be higher, then the gain is doubtful at all. It is advisable to overlay the house with silicate brick in warm regions. In the north, this is completely unprofitable.
Cladding of the house silicate brick- the most inexpensive, but, unfortunately, the most short-lived type of finish

Choosing the type of brick is far from everything. It is also necessary to pay attention to the size and shape of the holes. full bodied finishing brick rarely used: it costs more, weighs more. On average, voids occupy about 28%, but they are large and small. With equal characteristics, give preference to bricks with small holes: the mortar will not flow into them. This will reduce the cost masonry mortar, and the strength of the masonry will increase.

If you decide to veneer the house with hyper-pressed brick, it should be made no earlier than 15-20 days ago. During this time, it gains basic strength (about 80%) and it can already be safely transported and loaded.

Please note that during storage, the brick packaging should not be exposed to water. This is especially true if you are going to leave it for the winter.

How to overlay a wooden house (timbered, log, frame) with bricks

Most of the difficulties arise when bricking a wooden house: materials have very different characteristics, it is not easy to make a good bunch of them. The whole secret here is the need for a ventilation gap between the cladding and the insulation layer, which is usually stuffed on a wooden wall. A windproof membrane is laid over the insulation. A prerequisite is that it must be vapor-permeable (Izospan A, Isospan AS, Tyvek HouseRap, Megaizol SD, etc.). Only under such conditions will there be normal humidity in the room and rot and fungus will not develop between the cladding and wooden wall.

Instead of windproofing, you can protect the surface of the insulation with fiberglass or fiberglass. With a sufficient thickness of the wooden walls, the thermal insulation layer is simply absent, the wind insulation and the ventilation gap remain.

The ventilation gap must be at least 60 mm. It stretches from the very bottom of the wall - it starts after the base - and to the top. To ensure the flow of air in the first row, ventilation ducts are made through which air enters. Outlets are arranged under the roof in the eaves. Ventilation area 75 cm 2 for every 20 m 2 of the wall. The products in the bottom row can be made in several ways:

put on its side a brick with through holes;
partially fill side seams solution (when laying the solution, put a ruler, then remove it);
make two or three holes and install gratings.

About what kind of insulation to use. The most acceptable option is mineral wool in mats or rolls. The use of polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene is undesirable: they do not conduct steam. This will lead to the fact that the wood will rot, and the humidity in the rooms will be higher than normal.

Another important point: it is possible to overlay a wooden house with bricks only after the main shrinkage of the log house has passed. And this is at least 1.5-2 years. In this sense, it is easier with old wooden houses: the main processes have passed in them.

Pros and cons of a wooden house lined with bricks

The combination of materials so different in all characteristics is a complex and completely ambiguous matter. Of the positive points can be identified:

There are enough negatives:

All in all, not an ideal solution. If the house is still being planned, think a few times. Maybe it's better to build and then overlay them with bricks. These materials are much better matched and complement each other's qualities. It is worth lining a wooden house with brick if the house is old, the wood has darkened, it is necessary to give it a more attractive look.

Wall cladding technology

First, the wood is treated with a protective impregnation for outdoor use. Then a crate of planed timber (also impregnated) is stuffed. The dimensions of the beam depend on the required thickness of the heat-insulating layer. Usually for Middle lane Russia needs a thickness of basalt wool of about 50 mm, for more northern regions from 100 to 150 mm. But specifically, everything is considered depending on the thickness of the wall (from timber or logs) and the brick chosen for facing.

The insulation is laid very tightly, without gaps: the crate is stuffed taking into account its width. The distance between the bars should be a couple of centimeters less than the width of the insulation. So the material will fit with effort. It will fit snugly to the crate, which minimizes the formation of cold bridges.

An example of brick wall cladding of a wooden and frame house

A windproof membrane is laid on top of the insulation. It must necessarily be vapor-permeable, and if the vapor permeability is one-sided, then the removal of moisture is necessary from the room. Fasten the membrane with staples to the crate. Next, leave a gap for ventilation of at least 60 mm and put a wall of facing bricks.

How to do it right

There are a few subtleties that you need to know. The house is usually lined with half a brick. Without support, the wall turns out to be shaky, especially with large areas. To make it stand firmly, it is tied to a wooden wall. There are two ways:

Single dressings should be located over the entire surface of the wall. There are different recommendations - at a distance of about 50 cm from one another or 4 pieces per square meter.

If you are going to brick the house with your own hands, there may be problems with the horizontal and vertical laying. The following technique can help, allowing you to simultaneously control all directions:

In the corners of the house under the roof and above the plinth, long pins are hammered horizontally. They should protrude from the wall to a distance greater than the entire thickness of the finish.
At one corner, to the upper pin at a distance corresponding to the outer edge of the masonry, a wire is tied and lowered down, movably fixed on the lower nail.
Its verticality is checked and set with a plumb line, and it is rigidly fixed.
Also, at the same distance, a vertical wire is tied at the other end of the wall.
A horizontal cord is tied between two stretched strings. It will serve as a guide when laying: it can be moved up as the rows are laid. Only each time it is necessary to check the horizontalness with a level.

All of the above applies to frame houses. They also require a ventilation gap device. The situation is similar: on the outside there is a material that conducts moisture much worse than those located inside. Only wire or strips of tin for dressing are attached in this case to the racks of the frame.

Reinforce or not

In general, reinforcement makes the wall more durable and reliable. Therefore, it is better to reinforce. But this complicates and slows down the masonry, which leads to an increase in the cost of work (if the craftsmen were hired).

If you do it yourself, then you need to lay rows with reinforcement approximately every 5th row. As reinforcement, a special mesh is laid with a cell of 50-50 mm or two longitudinal bars of reinforcement with a diameter of 6 mm. At the same time, the size of the seam, whether in a row with reinforcement or without, should be the same.

Facing the house with a brick "live" filmed on video, laying technique "under the rod". The seams are beautiful, but water flows into them, which is then absorbed by the brick. Therefore, in this form, the seams cannot be left. They must be filled with mortar and embroidered in the same plane with the surface of the brick. Then the absorption of water during bad weather will be significantly reduced, and the "life" of the brick wall cladding will be much longer. The laying process itself was demonstrated correctly: the mortar is laid neatly, drops that have fallen on the surface are immediately rubbed off.

Facing the house with bricks made of aerated concrete, foam concrete and gas silicate

Vapor permeability cellular concrete also higher than that of a brick. That is, the situation is exactly the same: inside the room there is a material that better removes vapors. Therefore, to ensure a normal microclimate in the room and a long service life, a ventilation gap is required between the brickwork and the wall and the foam blocks.

If you overlay a house made of aerated concrete (foam concrete, gas silicate) with bricks without a gap, its service life will decrease by about 60%: condensate will accumulate at the border of the two materials. At low temperatures frozen moisture will destroy the bubble shell, gradually destroying the entire material and significantly degrading its performance.

Cladding device options aerated concrete house bricks and their characteristics

Additional heaters are used very rarely, if they are still needed, all the rules are the same as for the lining of a wooden house: basalt wool, protected by wind insulation.

The value of the ventilation gap is from 60 to 150 mm. The number of connections between two walls: at least 3 pieces per square meter of masonry, their cross section is at least 5 mm 2 per 1 m 2. For connection, screw or stainless nails with a length of at least 120 mm can be used. They are not hammered perpendicular to the wall, but at an angle of at least 45 °. You can use perforated galvanized strips, which are nailed on one side building blocks, and the second end is inserted into the brickwork, where it is bent at an angle. Note: ties should not be laid in the seams of the masonry of the main wall. Only nailed to the front surface of the blocks.

The best wall cladding made of aerated concrete and foam concrete is brick with a ventilation gap

Slag or slag house

Brick cladding in the case of buildings using slag is used more often when cracks creep along the walls. This happens mainly when the slag has exhausted its resource and began to crumble. On average, its service life is 50 years, it is reduced if the humidity of the walls was increased.

Brick cladding of a cinder block (slag-filled) house will only delay the inevitable: it will slow down the destruction, but will not stop it. The length of the delay depends on the condition of the material and the measures taken. On average, he is 8-15 years old. It is hardly possible to do without consulting a specialist: the price of an error is too high.

In most cases, it is recommended to build a frame around the house, on which to transfer part of the load of the floor and roof, to carry out waterproofing work. One of which is the external protection of walls from atmospheric precipitation with the help of brick cladding. Brick is selected with the lowest water absorption. For greater protection, the masonry can be impregnated with a hydrophobic compound (only not creating a vapor barrier film). Penetrating hydrophobic impregnation of the main wall will not be superfluous. To do this, you can use impregnations such as "Penetron" and analogues. They will simultaneously strengthen the material and significantly reduce water saturation.

Watch the video about the practice of facing old buildings with bricks.

About the choice of suppliers and prices

Prices for the same materials are very different depending on the region. In order to correctly assess the situation, you need to conduct your own market research: call or visit the largest suppliers, look at offers in the region on the network. During the call, you need to get technical data, find out the prices. Then compare the characteristics of bricks, compare prices.

What can be advised: do not buy too cheap materials. If the difference from the average market price is 15-20%, most likely, these are last year's remnants of not the most successful batch. Otherwise, look at the ratio of price and declared characteristics.

Average prices in Moscow are as follows:

silicate facing brick - 11-21 rubles / piece;
ceramic facing - 18-35 rubles / piece (corpulent 45-65 rubles / piece);
hyperpressed non-firing - 25-31 rubles / piece;
clinker - 27-40 rubles / piece.

After choosing several possible suppliers, see their product in person. Smooth edges, uniform color, no cracks or any defects - that's what you should see.

About the size of the party. It is advisable to buy the entire volume of cladding material at once. This will save you about 10-15%. some suppliers of large lots offer to bring in dumping norms directly from the factory. It's cheaper and eliminates additional overload, which means less combat.

The advantage of buying in bulk is that there will most likely be one batch, which guarantees color uniformity. In any case, the facing of the house with bricks is carried out from several packages at the same time. So even slightly different shades will not create color spots.