Simple gates for summer cottages. Do-it-yourself gate construction

Each fenced area has an entrance or entrance. For this purpose, a gate is installed in the fence. They come in a variety of designs and are made from a wide variety of materials. The most important thing is that they blend in well with their surroundings. The gates are made and installed by specialized firms, but you can do it yourself. How to make a gate in the country and install them correctly, and will be discussed further.

Scheme of swing gates made of corrugated board for a summer residence.

It will not be difficult to build a sliding gate on your own if you strictly follow all the steps, following the instructions. In terms of quality, such gates will be in no way inferior to sliding ones, made by qualified specialists.

So, to make a gate for a summer residence, you will need the following tools:

  1. Welding machine rated for 1000 A.
  2. Bulgarian with two types of discs. One type of disc is needed for cutting blanks for the gate, and the other for processing metal for painting.
  3. Air compressor for painting gates or brush or roller.
  4. Drill or screwdriver.
  5. Hammer.
  6. Level.
  7. The riveter.
  8. Pliers.
  9. Roulette.

Gates for summer cottages not only protect from prying eyes, but also give the site an aesthetic appearance.

There are several types of metal for the construction of gates. For the frame, you will need a profile pipe 60x40x2.5 or 60x40x2. But you can use 60x20x2 or 2.5 or 1.5 (it all depends on the size of the future gate). The ideal option for jumpers is 40x20x1.5-2-2.5. The material can be found at metal warehouses. It is necessary to choose a profile pipe with an excellent condition, without signs of rust. The volume of metal is calculated using the drawings drawn up for the gate.

The cladding is a matter of personal choice. Usually such gates are sheathed with a professional sheet. But both wood and polyester are excellent options.

The console is the most important part in a sliding gate.

It consists of:

  • 2 rollers;
  • beams;
  • end roller;
  • supporting upper rollers;
  • catcher.

Preparation for work

Before you start manufacturing, you need to determine the dimensions of the structure. To select fittings, you should know the length, width and height. The width is determined based on the need for free passage for vehicles. The size of the street where the land plot is located should be taken into account. Quite often, gates are installed at summer cottages that are too wide (about 5 m), intended for the entry of cars. It's about the narrow street and the bad inversion.

For the gates provided for a passenger car, an opening 2.6 m wide is enough. To enter a truck, it will be necessary to increase the dimensions to 3.4 meters. The height of the structure can be any. The flaps should be located 15 cm from the ground, so that the snow does not interfere with their easy opening.

The size of the gate is a rather important parameter in the manufacture of their structure.

The distance required for rolling away also depends on the size. The ideal option is a distance that is one and a half times greater than the door opening. If, for example, the opening is 4 m, then the entire length of the gate is 4x1.5 = 6 m and fittings 6 m long will be needed.

After all materials and tools are purchased, you need to plan the stages and complete the drawings. First, the location of the country gates is selected and prepared and the direction for rollback is determined. To draw up a diagram, measure the width, height and clearance between the gates.

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Foundation construction

Having the drawings and knowing the approximate amount of the required metal, you can start work. To arrange a sliding gate, the first step is to install support pillars. They are made from channel bars, steel pipes, oak beams, brick or concrete pillars. The pillars are installed and concreted at the depth of soil freezing.

The only rule here is that the pillar should be concreted at a depth of at least 1 m (the freezing point of the soil). Neglecting such a condition, you can violate the accuracy of the movement of the retractable structure, since in the winter or spring period the pillars can move away from the vertical.

Then they dig a hole with a depth of at least 1 m.Pillars are installed in it at the level and concrete is poured. It should be noted that the shortest period of time for hardening and obtaining the required concrete strength is approximately 1 week. This means that the bearing pillars must be taken care of in advance.

For the preparation of concrete, a mixture of cement, fine crushed stone and sand is used.

To make a cement mortar, you will need:

  • sand - 2 buckets;
  • crushed stone - 3 buckets;
  • cement - 1 bucket;
  • water - 0.7 buckets.

Water is poured into the container and cement is added. After vigorous mixing, pour out the sand. Crushed stone is added to the thoroughly mixed cement-sand mixture and mixed again.

To install a sliding gate, a foundation is required. For its manufacture, you need a metal channel, about 16-20 cm wide, as well as reinforcement with a section of 10-14 mm. The armature is cut into pieces 1 m long and welded to the shelves of the channel.

Then a trench is dug about 1.2-1.5 m deep, 40 cm wide, its length is 50% of the opening. The channel is lowered into it with its legs and all this is poured with liquid concrete.

The channel must be installed exactly at the level. At the same time, its top should be on the same level with the road. If everything is done correctly, you get a flat metal platform, rollers for sliding gates will be mounted to it. The foundation needs to stand for about one week.

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Carrying frame manufacturing

While the concrete hardens, there is time to start making the supporting frame.

The scale is removed from the pipes with a grinder with a metal brush.

Then the pipes are degreased with gasoline or solvent and an anti-corrosion primer is applied with a spray gun or brush.

For the manufacture of a frame for sliding gates, a profiled pipe with a cross section of 60 * 40 mm or 50 * 50 mm is used. An outer frame is formed from such pipes. Then an inner frame made of a pipe of 20 * 30 mm, 20 * 40 mm or other is welded into it. Such a device is needed for fastening wood, metal or corrugated board and gives rigidity to the structure.

Pipes are welded with tacks of 2 cm 25-30 cm. A guide is welded to the frame from below. All elements must be welded in a checkerboard pattern so that the canvas does not twist from heating.

First of all, rollers are placed on the channel under the sliding gates, which need to be pushed as far as possible. Then a guide with a canvas is put on them, the sliding gates are set in level and the roller carriages are tacked to the channel by welding.

The next step is to weld the support rollers and install the end roller. Finally, the upper and lower catchers are welded.

When arranging a sliding gate for a summer cottage or a wicket, one must remember about the functional load and how they look aesthetically pleasing, combined with the general decor of the cottage. Modern construction technologies make it possible to make wickets of a wide variety of shapes and designs at the dacha.

As you know, almost every suburban area has fences (fence, wall around) that are simply necessary for a safe and comfortable stay. Each of the fences (depending on the needs) must have an entrance in the form of a wicket or an entrance, for which a variety of gates are mounted.

A gate for a summer residence, unlike a conventional door entrance, can differ in:

  1. Manufacturing material.

Usually, metals or wood are used to perform them.

Metal gates

  1. Overall dimensions.

For a clear understanding of the principles of installing the gate, you need to decide on their type. According to the standard, the gate is made in a size of 2 m 60 cm. If necessary, the width of the entrance can be increased up to 3 m 50 cm.

  1. Opening method:
  • Hinged (opens like shutters in the house).
  • Retractable - do not require space (drive off to the side along the fence). An ideal solution if the suburban area is small.
  • Lifting - the entrance is carried out by manual or mechanical lifting of the gate up.
  • Gates for summer cottages with a wicket (have an additional doorway).

Each of the types has some features, for example, lifting and sliding gates do not require much space to open (this is very convenient in winter, when snow can interfere with the normal movement of the gate). In this regard, swing gates are rather impractical.

This view is very easy to install. Of course, like any gate, it has some drawbacks, for example, when used in the winter, you will have to throw snow before opening it. On the other hand, if you are thinking of installing the gate yourself, this is the best option.

This is the oldest type of gate and has not changed at all since then. This design is used everywhere, especially in the private sector. Its advantage over other types is the lack of a foundation necessary for the construction of sliding gates and load-bearing beams used in the implementation of the lifting option.

The swing version represents two iron or wooden sashes of arbitrary dimensions, suspended on poles or a brick support, with ordinary large hinges. They open, depending on the design of the hinges, inward or outward. But most often, there are options with opening in both directions (outward and inward).

As mentioned above, the choice of material is small (wood, metal) and depends on the owner or customer. For example, from metals, most often they buy steel or corrugated board. Wooden doors can be made of any species, but larch is best, because it is least susceptible to rotting.

Swing leaves are available in two versions:

  1. Deaf - the opening is completely closed.

Continuous stitching (with the selected material) is performed after the frame has been completed. For example, they are sewn with galvanized iron or corrugated board at least 0.7 mm.

  1. Transparent - the lining is not continuous.

A frame with stiffeners is made of round or shaped rectangular pipes. Sewing is carried out according to a design solution previously approved by the customer. It can be in the form of a picture or simply made in the form of verticals.


Installation, for example, of a metal version is quite simple and includes several sequential operations:

  1. First you need to prepare the frame (frame). It should include two vertical and three horizontal profiles.

For this, metal rolled products (pipes, profiles, squares) are cut (according to the prepared drawing) with a grinder. The dimensions of the rental depend on the dimensions of the doors. For example, when assembling a 3X2 m frame, corners or a profile of 40X40-60X60 mm are suitable

  1. Then the profiles are connected with a welding machine or bolts.

Profiles must be securely fixed to avoid frame defects; for greater strength, iron triangles can be used, which are welded in the corners or braces (metal beams), welded diagonally across the gate.


  1. The final stage is cladding.

Connections are made by welding, self-tapping screws or bolts. For convenience, sew in one direction, for example, to the right if you are right-handed, and in the opposite direction if you are left-handed. If you used corrugated board, then screw the self-tapping screws into the recesses.

After completing all the work, the hinges are welded. All places of welding joints are cleaned and painted.

Drawing of swing metal gates

The frame of the wooden gate is simply assembled with nails or self-tapping screws. Stitch it over with whatever you want, and screw on the loops at the end. Braces are required in this case as well.

Support posts can be made of bricks, logs or pipes (metal). Pole pits are dug about 1.8 m deep and 30-50 cm wide. They are covered by 20-30 cm with sand and gravel

Pillars made of logs or pipes are inserted into the pit, fixed and poured with concrete so that the mortar is level with the ground.

The main criterion that must be adhered to is concreting the supports at a depth of at least 100 cm (this is the amount of soil freezing, overcoming this threshold, you guarantee the necessary strength and durability of the future gate.

The preparation of the cement slurry is not difficult (mix 2 buckets of sand, 3 buckets of rubble, and 10 kg of cement, pouring water until the required consistency is reached).

Installation of sliding gates is done if you are not satisfied with ordinary swing gates, or to save space. After all, they resemble a coupe (its doors). Rolling along the wall, fence, room, hangar, they practically do not go beyond its dimensions.

Such gates are very popular, but expensive. If you compare them with other systems, installing a sliding gate with your own hands always requires certain skills and some preparation. The person who makes the installation must have the appropriate experience.

Sliding gates

The general frame of such gates is also made of profiles, it is distinguished by the presence of a guide welded to the lower profile. The guide is needed in order to move along the rollers, which are welded to the channel and posts (rollers are welded to the posts to support the gate).

In addition to the posts, special catching elements are also attached, which are necessary to reduce the force of collision when opening and closing the gate.

Sliding gate scheme

They can be opened (rolled back) by hand, but if you want to automate the gate, then use an electric motor to control. Additionally, install a movement mechanism (rack with teeth or chain drive).

The installation of rollback systems cannot be performed without purchasing a ready-made installation package, including:

  • bearing beam (U-shaped);
  • stubs;
  • 2 main rollers;
  • end roller;
  • carts;
  • catchers;
  • limiters.

You can purchase large, medium or small packages yourself to install sliding gates.
Sets of components (assembly packages) are selected based on the weight and dimensions of the console-type structure.


Installation package and arrangement of accessories

Two roller supports are fixed on a previously prepared channel blank. The U-shaped carrier is welded (screwed) from the bottom of the frame so that roller carts are inside it. This will ensure long-term operation and minimal contamination of the mechanism.

Roller supports are attached to the foundation with bolts or plates. This will allow them to move freely while supporting the weight of the gate.

Do-it-yourself installation of a sliding gate is done as follows:

  1. We are digging a trench 1.7-3 m deep, 40-50 cm wide under the foundation. The length of our concrete foundation should be 1/2 of the passage width.
  2. Next, we make a frame from reinforcement. We take reinforcement with caliber d12, channel # 18 and weld on the details. The length of the channel is also equal to 1/2 of the opening width. The reinforcement rods should lie below the level of soil freezing.
  3. The bottom of the trench for the base of the gate is covered with sand and tamped.
  4. Next, we lower the welded frame into the moat and set horizontal to the building level. Using two bars located at the ends of the channel, we check its parallelism to the rollback line.
  5. After that, we fill our trench with a concrete mixture from the calculation:
  • cement - 5 bags;
  • crushed stone - 0.3 cubic meters;
  • sand - 0.5 cubic meters.

Installation of sliding gates

After 5-7 days, the base will set completely and become firm.

If you want to control the gate using automation, you must prudently lay the cables in plastic (possibly from the sewer) or metal tubes.

After 5-10 days after completing the foundation, they begin to install the rollback system. The instruction suggests that the assembly process be divided into stages:

  1. Preparatory.
  • along the opening at a height of 20 cm from the road, we pull the twine to set the position of the carrier.
  • we insert roller supports (referring to the instructions) into the beam and move them (just roll them over) to the center of the gate.
  • we insert into the U-shaped bearing roller trolleys and fix it on the sash.
  • we put the assembled structure on the blank from the channel.
  • we place both roller supports along the markings.
  • we align the gate so that they are parallel to our cord in the opening.
  • we strengthen the roller carts on the laid channel.
  • weld the adjustment platform to the channel, for the second roller support.
  • we roll back the structure to the end to check the horizontal position of the supports and the sash.
  • then we just weld on the platform (adjusting) of the first support.
  • then we remove everything and weld the platforms of the remaining supports to the laid channel.
  • again we strengthen all the supports and slide the door leaf.
  • we close the gate for precise adjustment of the horizontal position of the supporting element. This is done with a wrench simply by raising / lowering the roller platforms.
  1. Free wheel setting

Adjustment is achieved by correctly positioning the roller carts.


Free wheel setting

Take the appropriate wrench and loosen the nuts securing the adjusting platforms and roller bearings. We close / open the gate several times to set the roller supports in the desired position. When an easy and free movement is achieved, it is only necessary to tighten the nuts from the top.

Next, install the plugs and the roller at the end. It is mounted on the front side of the door in the U-shaped track itself. We fasten it with bolts and proceed with the installation of the plug, which is supplied in the installation package of the retractable mechanism. It is reinforced from the back. The plug is designed to protect the rollers from rye and jamming due to bad weather.

Then we mount the upper bracket. First, the rollers are slightly weakened and this element is placed so that the rollers are flush with the upper edge, and the bracket itself is turned to the support post by the fastening point. Then we press the part and fix it.


Finished sliding gates
  1. After that, we begin to trim the gate. We cut the sheets of the prepared material:
  • iron;
  • steel;
  • stainless steel;
  • corrugated board;
  • other.

the cladding begins from the facade of the gate, securing the material with self-tapping screws, rivets, and iron strips.

After that, we install the upper and lower catchers to relieve the load from the mechanism and prevent the gate from swinging.

Lifting gates for summer cottages save a sufficient amount of space, but their installation is not carried out without the help of specialists. The gates have an electric lifting mechanism and devices with which it is carried out (ropes, rails, gears).

Such gates are difficult to open by hand due to their heavy weight. Therefore, they are not suitable for summer cottages that are not supplied with electricity, as they require a constant supply network.

There are three types of such gates:

  1. Louvered type.
  2. Lifting swivel.
  3. Ascending vertically.
Up-and-over gates

The easiest to manufacture is the third option. It represents two pillars with guides along which the roller gates slide. If you use an electric motor with a rack and pinion mechanism, installing it vertically, then you can automate the process.


One of the options for lifting gates.

It is difficult to make blinds yourself, so you have to buy them. This is the most expensive of all the options. Instructions for self-assembly are voiced on video. Therefore, you can try to install them yourself.

In principle, any of the gates can be made with a wicket, except for jalousies, you only need the wicket itself and several additional profiles.

There are two types of wicket installation:


The gate on the sash is made as follows:

First, we choose in which half of the gate there will be a wicket, then we mount 4 profiles (vertically). Two profiles will denote the frame limits (those that are farther from the wicket - external) and two in the future will form an opening for the wicket (internal).


Separate wicket

To increase the strength, braces are welded (in the corners, to the outer racks). In addition, a middle profile (horizontally) is mounted, which defines the inner opening of the wicket. After, the profile is recruited, taking into account an additional 2 cm of the opening diagonally. 2 cm is an accepted tolerance for possible metal expansion or deformation. Finishing work is carried out in the same way with swing gates.

It is quite logical that the gates are mounted after the construction of the fence for the summer cottage and require preliminary installation of support pillars.

Preparation

Before starting work, for their high-quality performance, we need an appropriate tool, namely:

  • welding machine (for fastening profiles, the power of the device must be at least 1000A);
  • grinder (for cutting blanks and general metal processing);
  • dye;
  • hammer;
  • building level;
  • roulette.

Tools are your faithful helpers

In addition to tools, you need to prepare the source material - shaped pipes (the ideal option is a pipe with a size of 60x40x2.5). The amount of material required, including metal, is calculated in estimates or found out when drawing up drawings or diagrams.

When constructing a sliding gate for a summer residence, for their further normal operation, you need additionally:

  • rollers (including end rollers);
  • beams;
  • catching mechanisms.

Assembly package for assembly

All these elements form a console, without which it is simply impossible to make a sliding gate.

Before installing a gate for a summer residence, you need to decide on the dimensions (standard parameters are length, width, height). If the gate is used for the passage of vehicles, then 2.6 m will be enough for an ordinary car (for a truck - 3.5 m). Remember, in the presence of swing gates, as their size increases, the space required to open and close them increases.

After preparing all the materials and tools, they start pouring the foundation.

Foundation

When installing a sliding-type gates for summer cottages, the organization of the foundation is also necessary. We will dig a trench in advance (about 1.5 meters deep and 40 cm wide). Place there a channel with welded pieces of reinforcement and pour concrete into the level with the ground, as indicated in the paragraph about sliding gates.

The installation of the channel is carried out using a building level to avoid distortions. It takes 7 days for the concrete to harden and the work can be continued.

Foundation diagram for sliding gates

How to make a frame

From the very beginning, using any available tools (grinders, brushes for metal), they clean the pipes, and then paint them. For the manufacture of frames of various types of gates, including sliding ones, pipes of different sections (60x40 or 50x50) are used. An outer frame is made of pipes, and after that, an inner one is welded into it. Further, the structure is sheathed with wood, metal or corrugated board.

If you are installing sliding gates for summer cottages with your own hands, you will also need to put the rollers on the channel, then put on the guide on top (set it straight) and weld special trolleys with rollers to the channel itself. Then the supporting rollers, which were already mentioned earlier, are welded, and in the final stage the entire frame is painted to give it anti-corrosion properties and aesthetic design.

The wicket is usually made of the same material as the fence. Depending on the needs of the owner, the wooden gate is varnished or painted.

The most common option is to make a wicket from a picket fence

Picket fence

For normal use of the structure, decide in advance with the distance between the supports of the wicket, this will determine the size of the door itself and the width of the passage. Support legs can be concrete, brick, metal or wood. After concreting the supports and drying the mortar, hinges are attached to the supports and the door is hung so that a gap of 5-10 mm remains below. Try on the wicket to the supports even before concreting them, measure the distance required for normal opening / closing, and only after that install

Photo of the gate in the country

Each owner strives to ensure that his dacha is as comfortable and beautiful as possible. Of course, any summer cottage begins with a gate, so this element must be given no less attention than other objects. Therefore, in this article we will look at how to make beautiful and high-quality metal country gates with our own hands.

Types of designs for country gates

Currently, the following types of gate designs are most common:

  • Swing doors are two sashes that swing open to one side or the other. Their production does not take much time and effort. The inconvenience of this design is its cumbersomeness in the open position - often there are objects near the doors that interfere with their opening.
  • Sliding - the undoubted advantage of this design is that the sashes do not swing outward, but slide to the side. On the other hand, their advantage is the ability to open both manually and automatically. True, the manufacture of such a structure will require much more time and money.

Lifting structures can also be attributed to retractable ones. Their peculiarity lies in the fact that they rise up, and do not roll sideways.

I must say that it is more expedient to make swing gates on your own, especially if there is no such work experience, since this design is simpler.

Gate manufacturing

Project

First of all, you need to do the drawings of the country gates with your own hands. All dimensions of the structure and its features should be marked on them. In addition, the diagram should depict its relative position with other objects on the site.

Note!
In the drawings, it is necessary to describe as accurately as possible all the elements of the future product, since this will subsequently facilitate its manufacture.
Therefore, the design should be depicted from three sides.

After the drawings are ready, you can proceed directly to the manufacture of the structure.

Materials (edit)

Before starting work, you should prepare the following materials:

  • Decking or sheets of metal;
  • Metal pipes;
  • Metal corners or square pipes;
  • Sand and cement;
  • Four hinges (garage door hinges can be used).

Installation of supports

Steel pipes with a diameter of at least 100 mm should be used as support for the sash. You can replace the pipe with a steel profile, for example, an I-beam or a channel with a shelf width of at least 100 mm.

Note!
The stiffer and stronger the supports, the longer the product will last.

The installation instructions for the supports are as follows:

  • First of all, it is necessary to apply markings to the soil, indicating the location of the gate and indicate the location of the supports.
  • Next, the pipes should be cut to obtain the supports of the required length, in accordance with the drawings.
  • Then the supports are installed, for which it is necessary to dig holes. Since when opening and closing the leaves, variable dynamic loads are on the axis, the supports must be installed more reliably than the fence posts. The optimum pit depth is 0.8 meters.
  • After installing the supports in the pits, they should be poured with concrete. In this case, the verticality of the position of the supports must be checked with a building level.

Note!
The width of the gate must be calculated carefully so that the gate is not too wide.
The wider they are, the more significant wind loads will exert on them.
At the same time, the gate must be wide enough to allow a car to enter the yard.

I must say that the racks do not have to be metal. For example, you can lay out the posts made of bricks or other material.

Sash manufacturing

While the concrete hardens, you can start making the sashes, in accordance with the drawings. The sash design is a frame to which corrugated board or metal sheets are welded. I must say that the price of corrugated board is usually lower than metal sheets, since the sheets of this material are much thinner.

To increase rigidity, several cross members are usually welded to each frame. For example, one horizontal and two vertical planks are common.

Thus, first of all, when making a gate, it is necessary to cut a corner or square pipes into pieces of the required length and weld a frame from them. When doing this job, it is extremely important to ensure that the angles are accurate.

Note!
When making frames, it should be borne in mind that after installing the shutters, a distance of at least 8-12 millimeters must remain between them.

After making the frames, sheets of the required size should be cut out of the metal and welded to the frame. One of the flaps should have a bounding bar that will hide the gap between the flaps.

In the photo - a loop for the gate

Hinges

An important point in the manufacture of the structure is the installation of the hinges. This work requires the utmost precision, since the correct positioning of the doors and their performance depend on it.

As mentioned above, garage hinges can be used as awnings. For standard sash sizes, four hinges are sufficient, i.e. two hinges for one sash. If the gate is large and strong, 6 hinges should be used.

Before installation, metal plates are welded to each of the hinges, which in turn are welded to the supports. The second part of the hinges is welded to the sash, after which the structure is installed on the supporting pillars.

After that, it remains to complete the shutter mechanism. Most often, it consists of two L-shaped pins-stoppers, which are located at the bottom of the gate.

Classic swing gates can have symmetrical or asymmetrical leaves, as well as an additional entrance gate. Regardless of the type of construction, they are manufactured according to the same principle.

Installation of supports

When the soil heaves in winter, the load on the support pillars of the gate can reach up to 10 tons per 1 sq. In addition, they also experience a significant dynamic load of several hundred kilograms during their opening and closing. Therefore, to increase the service life of such a structure, a reliable support is required, deepened into the ground to a sufficient depth.

The order of installation of gate posts:
1. Pipes or profiles of 2.5 mm with a diameter of 60 mm and above can be used as supporting structures. The use of a corner is not recommended: it is not able to provide the structure with the required rigidity. For crossbeams, the profile can be slightly narrower: up to 30 mm.

Advice... Too massive frame create too much load on the support pillars, therefore, when choosing a thick-walled profile, they are also strengthened accordingly.

Support pillars

1. For their installation, a pit is being prepared to the depth of soil freezing (while its depth cannot be less than 1 m). For example, in the Moscow region it will be 1.4 m. You can dig a pit using an earth drill or manually. Moreover, its diameter should be at least twice the cross-section of the pipe.


Pit for pouring support pillars

2. Before pouring concrete, a sand-crushed stone pillow 20 cm high is arranged at the bottom of the pit.
3. The pillars are fixed in the pit, leveled with a level and filled with a sand-cement mixture. The gate is installed not less than a week after it has completely set.

Advice... To prevent the concrete from cracking before pouring, the ground around should be spilled with water and tamped. To prevent premature drying out, the top of the foundation should be covered with a film and periodically moistened with water.

The main stages of manufacturing gate leaves

2. The metal profile is cut to size.
3. From each edge of the strip with a square, lines are drawn at an angle of 45 °, and then a cut is made along them with the help of a grinder. To improve the strength of the welded seams, the cut points are thoroughly cleaned to bare metal.


Profile joints marking

4. The profiles of the collar are laid out on a flat surface and are tightly joined at the corners. Corner clamps (fixing clamps) can be used to secure the structure. To prevent the collar from "leading", before welding, you should check square the correct location of the profiles inside the structure, and then outside. The horizontalness of the surface is verified using level.


Horizontal and Angle Check

5. With a tape measure the height and width of the collar are also controlled. In case of an error, the correctness of cutting corners and the location of each of the parts is checked.

Advice... If the channel or profile is slightly bent, it can be leveled with a hammer, after preheating the metal over the gas burner.


Checking the height and width of the structure

6. After adjusting all the knots, the seams in the corners are first tacked, and then welded with a continuous seam. All welding places are cleaned with a grinder with a petal nozzle. In the future, before painting, small cavities (voids) formed at the seams can be treated with automotive putty.
7. Next docked transverse crossbars at an angle of 90 °. So that the gate does not "twist", except for the transverse ones, in order to increase the rigidity, at least one diagonal lintel... It is possible to determine the angle of its conjugation with the profile of the gate only empirically: it depends only on the design of the gate.


Crossbars running across the collar and diagonally

8. To hinge the gate, one of the sides must be reinforced with a small piece from a metal corner.


Reinforcement of a metal strip for welding hinges

Welding gate hinges

The simplest device is the pin on which the cap is put on. To weld the hinges, the collar should be set in the same plane with the post with a gap not less than 5 mm. From the top and bottom of the collar, 20 or 25 cm recede and a mark is made with a pencil or chalk. Then the lower part of the hinge is welded to the frame (door leaf), and the lower part to the base.


Tack on hinges

Usually the hinges are welded through plates (ears): small metal strips are attached to both parts of the hinge, and then these plates are welded to the gate and frame. This method allows you to weld both the loop and the plate on both sides, and then attach it from the top, side and bottom using three seams.

In order to prevent the loops from sintering together during welding, before starting work, all moving parts should be thoroughly greased with grease. The weld seam is laid from the bottom up.

Since the supports will always move at the slightest movement of the ground, it is also necessary to leave a small gap of a few millimeters between the flaps.

Frame sheathing

Gate sheathing can be any: wooden, made of profiled sheets or metal sheets, etc. It is attached to the gate with self-tapping screws. If sheet metal is to be welded, a smoother cold rolled metal should be chosen.


Wood paneling

Below are a few swing gate drawings from which you can choose the most suitable. You can develop your own scheme yourself. The optimal gate width for the entry of both a car and a truck is 3 m, the height is from 2 m and more. To save materials, you can combine the gate with an entrance wicket.

Important! When creating your own drawing, you should take into account gaps of several millimeters between the doors and posts, as well as between the gate and the ground.

If further automation of swing gates is envisaged, it should be borne in mind that it should only be installed after perfect adjustment of the leaf travel. If you have to make some effort when opening them, the reasons are identified and eliminated.


Scheme 1


Scheme 2


Scheme 3


Scheme 4


Scheme 5


Scheme 6

As you know, almost every suburban area has fences (fence, wall around) that are simply necessary for a safe and comfortable stay. Each of the fences (depending on the needs) must have an entrance in the form of a wicket or an entrance, for which a variety of gates are mounted.

A gate for a summer residence, unlike a conventional door entrance, can differ in:

  1. Manufacturing material.

Usually, metals or wood are used to perform them.

Metal gates

  1. Overall dimensions.

For a clear understanding of the principles of installing the gate, you need to decide on their type. According to the standard, the gate is made in a size of 2 m 60 cm. If necessary, the width of the entrance can be increased up to 3 m 50 cm.

  1. Opening method:
  • Hinged (opens like shutters in the house).
  • Retractable - do not require space (drive off to the side along the fence). An ideal solution if the suburban area is small.
  • Lifting - the entrance is carried out by manual or mechanical lifting of the gate up.
  • Gates for summer cottages with a wicket (have an additional doorway).

Each of the types has some features, for example, lifting and sliding gates do not require much space to open (this is very convenient in winter, when snow can interfere with the normal movement of the gate). In this regard, swing gates are rather impractical.

This view is very easy to install. Of course, like any gate, it has some drawbacks, for example, when used in the winter, you will have to throw snow before opening it. On the other hand, if you are thinking of installing the gate yourself, this is the best option.

This is the oldest type of gate and has not changed at all since then. This design is used everywhere, especially in the private sector. Its advantage over other types is the lack of a foundation necessary for the construction of sliding gates and load-bearing beams used in the implementation of the lifting option.

The swing version represents two iron or wooden sashes of arbitrary dimensions, suspended on poles or a brick support, with ordinary large hinges. They open, depending on the design of the hinges, inward or outward. But most often, there are options with opening in both directions (outward and inward).

As mentioned above, the choice of material is small (wood, metal) and depends on the owner or customer. For example, from metals, most often they buy steel or corrugated board. Wooden doors can be made of any species, but larch is best, because it is least susceptible to rotting.

Swing leaves are available in two versions:

  1. Deaf - the opening is completely closed.

Continuous stitching (with the selected material) is performed after the frame has been completed. For example, they are sewn with galvanized iron or corrugated board at least 0.7 mm.

  1. Transparent - the lining is not continuous.

A frame with stiffeners is made of round or shaped rectangular pipes. Sewing is carried out according to a design solution previously approved by the customer. It can be in the form of a picture or simply made in the form of verticals.


Installation, for example, of a metal version is quite simple and includes several sequential operations:

  1. First you need to prepare the frame (frame). It should include two vertical and three horizontal profiles.

For this, metal rolled products (pipes, profiles, squares) are cut (according to the prepared drawing) with a grinder. The dimensions of the rental depend on the dimensions of the doors. For example, when assembling a 3X2 m frame, corners or a profile of 40X40-60X60 mm are suitable

  1. Then the profiles are connected with a welding machine or bolts.

Profiles must be securely fixed to avoid frame defects; for greater strength, iron triangles can be used, which are welded in the corners or braces (metal beams), welded diagonally across the gate.


  1. The final stage is cladding.

Connections are made by welding, self-tapping screws or bolts. For convenience, sew in one direction, for example, to the right if you are right-handed, and in the opposite direction if you are left-handed. If you used corrugated board, then screw the self-tapping screws into the recesses.

After completing all the work, the hinges are welded. All places of welding joints are cleaned and painted.

Drawing of swing metal gates

The frame of the wooden gate is simply assembled with nails or self-tapping screws. Stitch it over with whatever you want, and screw on the loops at the end. Braces are required in this case as well.

Support posts can be made of bricks, logs or pipes (metal). Pole pits are dug about 1.8 m deep and 30-50 cm wide. They are covered by 20-30 cm with sand and gravel

Pillars made of logs or pipes are inserted into the pit, fixed and poured with concrete so that the mortar is level with the ground.

The main criterion that must be adhered to is concreting the supports at a depth of at least 100 cm (this is the amount of soil freezing, overcoming this threshold, you guarantee the necessary strength and durability of the future gate.

The preparation of the cement slurry is not difficult (mix 2 buckets of sand, 3 buckets of rubble, and 10 kg of cement, pouring water until the required consistency is reached).

Installation of sliding gates is done if you are not satisfied with ordinary swing gates, or to save space. After all, they resemble a coupe (its doors). Rolling along the wall, fence, room, hangar, they practically do not go beyond its dimensions.

Such gates are very popular, but expensive. If you compare them with other systems, installing a sliding gate with your own hands always requires certain skills and some preparation. The person who makes the installation must have the appropriate experience.

Sliding gates

The general frame of such gates is also made of profiles, it is distinguished by the presence of a guide welded to the lower profile. The guide is needed in order to move along the rollers, which are welded to the channel and posts (rollers are welded to the posts to support the gate).

In addition to the posts, special catching elements are also attached, which are necessary to reduce the force of collision when opening and closing the gate.

Sliding gate scheme

They can be opened (rolled back) by hand, but if you want to automate the gate, then use an electric motor to control. Additionally, install a movement mechanism (rack with teeth or chain drive).

The installation of rollback systems cannot be performed without purchasing a ready-made installation package, including:

  • bearing beam (U-shaped);
  • stubs;
  • 2 main rollers;
  • end roller;
  • carts;
  • catchers;
  • limiters.

You can purchase large, medium or small packages yourself to install sliding gates.
Sets of components (assembly packages) are selected based on the weight and dimensions of the console-type structure.


Installation package and arrangement of accessories

Two roller supports are fixed on a previously prepared channel blank. The U-shaped carrier is welded (screwed) from the bottom of the frame so that roller carts are inside it. This will ensure long-term operation and minimal contamination of the mechanism.

Roller supports are attached to the foundation with bolts or plates. This will allow them to move freely while supporting the weight of the gate.

Do-it-yourself installation of a sliding gate is done as follows:

  1. We are digging a trench 1.7-3 m deep, 40-50 cm wide under the foundation. The length of our concrete foundation should be 1/2 of the passage width.
  2. Next, we make a frame from reinforcement. We take reinforcement with caliber d12, channel # 18 and weld on the details. The length of the channel is also equal to 1/2 of the opening width. The reinforcement rods should lie below the level of soil freezing.
  3. The bottom of the trench for the base of the gate is covered with sand and tamped.
  4. Next, we lower the welded frame into the moat and set horizontal to the building level. Using two bars located at the ends of the channel, we check its parallelism to the rollback line.
  5. After that, we fill our trench with a concrete mixture from the calculation:
  • cement - 5 bags;
  • crushed stone - 0.3 cubic meters;
  • sand - 0.5 cubic meters.

Installation of sliding gates

After 5-7 days, the base will set completely and become firm.

If you want to control the gate using automation, you must prudently lay the cables in plastic (possibly from the sewer) or metal tubes.

After 5-10 days after completing the foundation, they begin to install the rollback system. The instruction suggests that the assembly process be divided into stages:

  1. Preparatory.
  • along the opening at a height of 20 cm from the road, we pull the twine to set the position of the carrier.
  • we insert roller supports (referring to the instructions) into the beam and move them (just roll them over) to the center of the gate.
  • we insert into the U-shaped bearing roller trolleys and fix it on the sash.
  • we put the assembled structure on the blank from the channel.
  • we place both roller supports along the markings.
  • we align the gate so that they are parallel to our cord in the opening.
  • we strengthen the roller carts on the laid channel.
  • weld the adjustment platform to the channel, for the second roller support.
  • we roll back the structure to the end to check the horizontal position of the supports and the sash.
  • then we just weld on the platform (adjusting) of the first support.
  • then we remove everything and weld the platforms of the remaining supports to the laid channel.
  • again we strengthen all the supports and slide the door leaf.
  • we close the gate for precise adjustment of the horizontal position of the supporting element. This is done with a wrench simply by raising / lowering the roller platforms.
  1. Free wheel setting

Adjustment is achieved by correctly positioning the roller carts.


Free wheel setting

Take the appropriate wrench and loosen the nuts securing the adjusting platforms and roller bearings. We close / open the gate several times to set the roller supports in the desired position. When an easy and free movement is achieved, it is only necessary to tighten the nuts from the top.

Next, install the plugs and the roller at the end. It is mounted on the front side of the door in the U-shaped track itself. We fasten it with bolts and proceed with the installation of the plug, which is supplied in the installation package of the retractable mechanism. It is reinforced from the back. The plug is designed to protect the rollers from rye and jamming due to bad weather.

Then we mount the upper bracket. First, the rollers are slightly weakened and this element is placed so that the rollers are flush with the upper edge, and the bracket itself is turned to the support post by the fastening point. Then we press the part and fix it.


Finished sliding gates
  1. After that, we begin to trim the gate. We cut the sheets of the prepared material:
  • iron;
  • steel;
  • stainless steel;
  • corrugated board;
  • other.

the cladding begins from the facade of the gate, securing the material with self-tapping screws, rivets, and iron strips.

After that, we install the upper and lower catchers to relieve the load from the mechanism and prevent the gate from swinging.

Lifting gates for summer cottages save a sufficient amount of space, but their installation is not carried out without the help of specialists. The gates have an electric lifting mechanism and devices with which it is carried out (ropes, rails, gears).

Such gates are difficult to open by hand due to their heavy weight. Therefore, they are not suitable for summer cottages that are not supplied with electricity, as they require a constant supply network.

There are three types of such gates:

  1. Louvered type.
  2. Lifting swivel.
  3. Ascending vertically.
Up-and-over gates

The easiest to manufacture is the third option. It represents two pillars with guides along which the roller gates slide. If you use an electric motor with a rack and pinion mechanism, installing it vertically, then you can automate the process.


One of the options for lifting gates.

It is difficult to make blinds yourself, so you have to buy them. This is the most expensive of all the options. Instructions for self-assembly are voiced on video. Therefore, you can try to install them yourself.

In principle, any of the gates can be made with a wicket, except for jalousies, you only need the wicket itself and several additional profiles.

There are two types of wicket installation:


The gate on the sash is made as follows:

First, we choose in which half of the gate there will be a wicket, then we mount 4 profiles (vertically). Two profiles will denote the frame limits (those that are farther from the wicket - external) and two in the future will form an opening for the wicket (internal).


Separate wicket

To increase the strength, braces are welded (in the corners, to the outer racks). In addition, a middle profile (horizontally) is mounted, which defines the inner opening of the wicket. After, the profile is recruited, taking into account an additional 2 cm of the opening diagonally. 2 cm is an accepted tolerance for possible metal expansion or deformation. Finishing work is carried out in the same way with swing gates.

It is quite logical that the gates are mounted after erection and require preliminary installation of support pillars.

Preparation

Before starting work, for their high-quality performance, we need an appropriate tool, namely:

  • welding machine (for fastening profiles, the power of the device must be at least 1000A);
  • grinder (for cutting blanks and general metal processing);
  • dye;
  • hammer;
  • building level;
  • roulette.

Tools are your faithful helpers

In addition to tools, you need to prepare the source material - shaped pipes (the ideal option is a pipe with a size of 60x40x2.5). The amount of material required, including metal, is calculated in estimates or found out when drawing up drawings or diagrams.

When constructing a sliding gate for a summer residence, for their further normal operation, you need additionally:

  • rollers (including end rollers);
  • beams;
  • catching mechanisms.

Assembly package for assembly

All these elements form a console, without which it is simply impossible to make a sliding gate.

Before installing a gate for a summer residence, you need to decide on the dimensions (standard parameters are length, width, height). If the gate is used for the passage of vehicles, then 2.6 m will be enough for an ordinary car (for a truck - 3.5 m). Remember, in the presence of swing gates, as their size increases, the space required to open and close them increases.

After preparing all the materials and tools, they start pouring the foundation.

Foundation

When installing a sliding-type gates for summer cottages, the organization of the foundation is also necessary. We will dig a trench in advance (about 1.5 meters deep and 40 cm wide). Place there a channel with welded pieces of reinforcement and pour concrete into the level with the ground, as indicated in the paragraph about sliding gates.

The installation of the channel is carried out using a building level to avoid distortions. It takes 7 days for the concrete to harden and the work can be continued.

Foundation diagram for sliding gates

How to make a frame

From the very beginning, using any available tools (grinders, brushes for metal), they clean the pipes, and then paint them. For the manufacture of frames of various types of gates, including sliding ones, pipes of different sections (60x40 or 50x50) are used. An outer frame is made of pipes, and after that, an inner one is welded into it. Further, the structure is sheathed with wood, metal or corrugated board.

If you are installing sliding gates for summer cottages with your own hands, you will also need to put the rollers on the channel, then put on the guide on top (set it straight) and weld special trolleys with rollers to the channel itself. Then the supporting rollers, which were already mentioned earlier, are welded, and in the final stage the entire frame is painted to give it anti-corrosion properties and aesthetic design.

The wicket is usually made of the same material as the fence. Depending on the needs of the owner, the wooden gate is varnished or painted.

The most common option is to make a wicket from a picket fence

Picket fence

For normal use of the structure, decide in advance with the distance between the supports of the wicket, this will determine the size of the door itself and the width of the passage. Support legs can be concrete, brick, metal or wood. After concreting the supports and drying the mortar, hinges are attached to the supports and the door is hung so that a gap of 5-10 mm remains below. Try on the wicket to the supports even before concreting them, measure the distance required for normal opening / closing, and only after that install

Photo of the gate in the country