Why and how to insulate the roof from the inside: detailed instructions. Insulation of the cornice, how to properly close the contour of the roof and walls Do they insulate the roof

Insulation of the roof of a house made of wood is one of the key stages of construction. The roof is more exposed to other structural elements environment, therefore, without high-quality insulation, you can forget about comfortable living in the house.

The lack of high-quality insulation allows the cold to freely penetrate into living quarters, therefore, heating costs in winter period grow to incredible values. To avoid these problems, you need to know how to insulate the roof in wooden house do it yourself and what materials to choose for the work.

Why do you need to insulate the roof?

The goals of roof insulation are not entirely clear to novice craftsmen. At first glance, this is not at all a prerequisite, especially if the attic is non-residential and is used to store unnecessary things. In such cases, an air pocket is formed between the roof and the rooms, which is able to trap cold air currents.

In addition, wood has relatively good thermal insulation properties therefore carry additional expenses insulation is optional. This is a common misconception.

Note! The main reason for roof insulation is to reduce heating costs in winter.

Of course, an air pocket in the attic will not allow cold air to penetrate inside, but it also does not create obstacles for heat to escape from the living quarters.

Temperature fluctuations lead to the formation of condensation on internal surfaces and rafters. Constant moisture and dampness is a favorable environment for the development of mold and mildew. These harmful microorganisms are capable of a short time transform safe house into a dilapidated structure. It is noteworthy that to remove the fungus after its appearance on wooden surfaces almost impossible.

The key stage in roof insulation is the choice of thermal insulation material. It is necessary to figure out what options for purchase the modern market can offer.

The choice of insulation

It is noteworthy, but when choosing suitable material it is necessary to take into account not only the thermal insulation ability. Insulation should not contain and release toxic and chemical active substances... It should keep its shape well and not cause problems during handling and styling. Moreover, the thermal insulation should not create a load on bearing structures... In private construction, several types of insulation are used.

Mineral wool

Minvata is one of the most affordable and widespread insulation materials in Russian construction market... It is available in slabs or rolls, has a fibrous structure, which reliably isolates the interior from the sounds of the street. Advantages mineral wool consist in the fact that the material is resistant to temperature extremes, does not support combustion, does not attract rodents and other pests. For do-it-yourself roof insulation wooden house from within it the best option.

Among the shortcomings, one can single out the dependence on a humid environment and the need to install the crate. If the attic is to be used as a residential attic, some of the interior space is hidden after the work is completed.

Expanded clay

It is a porous artificial stone with excellent thermal insulation properties. The material is easy to install and does not create a load on the supporting structures and the base. However, expanded clay is more suitable for external insulation of roofs or walls, it is used for the floor. It will take a fairly thick layer to create a quality insulation cake, and this increases costs.

Styrofoam and expanded polystyrene

Both materials are made from polystyrene granules and are similar in appearance. Insulation is produced in the form of slabs, which attract the attention of developers by their low weight and ease of installation. The difference between polystyrene and expanded polystyrene lies in the production technology, which implies various characteristics and properties.

Polyfoam is obtained as a result of processing polystyrene granules with steam, which connects individual particles to each other, forming a porous structure. Expanded polystyrene is created by extrusion, which gives the material a higher density.

Both options are neutral to the effects of a humid environment, have a specific low thermal conductivity. Giving preference to polystyrene or expanded polystyrene, do not forget that the material burns, attracts mice and rats, and can crumble over time, creating gaps in the roof insulation.

Liquid polyurethane foam

it modern look insulation, which is laid under pressure in a liquid form. Thanks to this structure, polyurethane foam evenly fills the free space, forming a monolithic thermal insulation of the roof or walls without cold bridges. The material is non-flammable, does not create additional loads on the floors and is neutral to a humid environment.

The disadvantages of liquid polyurethane foam can be called the impossibility self-fulfillment work and material cost. However, the last nuance is justified by the durability and quality of thermal insulation.

Technology

Contrary to popular belief, it is better not to engage in insulation during the construction process. After the completion of the work, the house is subject to shrinkage, which can provoke a slight deformation of all structural elements. As a result, tears appear on the surface of the heat-insulating cake, which negatively affects the quality of the work performed. Professional builders it is recommended to wait about a year and only after that do weatherization. The process can be conditionally divided into several stages that require detailed consideration.

Preparation

Self-insulation of the roof of a wooden house begins with an inspection of all structural elements. This is especially true for old buildings where the roof leaked. During the inspection, it is necessary to pay attention to damp areas, on which traces of decay are noticeable or fungal spores are observed. Such elements are cleaned and processed special formulations, if necessary, a complete replacement is carried out.

This rule cannot be neglected. With mass undeniable advantages wood is very dependent on a humid environment, therefore, if there are traces of rot on the surfaces, it makes no sense to engage in thermal insulation until such phenomena are completely eliminated. Dampness will gradually destroy the rafters and floors, which at least will lead to a violation of the thermal insulation layer.

Important! Ideally when insulating wooden roof with an antiseptic, you need to treat all surfaces, giving special attention areas close to engineering communications.

About the benefits of hydro and vapor barrier

It's no secret that high-quality thermal insulation is a multi-layer cake, where each element performs a strictly defined function. In the standard version, it looks like this:

  • waterproofing;
  • crate (if necessary);
  • insulation;
  • vapor barrier;
  • finishing.

The first layer is waterproofing. Here you can use the usual plastic wrap, which will perfectly cope with its task - it will protect the insulation from the effects of dampness.

Note! With prolonged contact with water, even foam that is neutral to everything begins to absorb moisture.

Over-saturation leads to the separation of the compressed granules with the subsequent destruction of the insulation plate. Fasten the waterproofing directly to the base, fixing it to the rafters with staples construction stapler... If your budget allows, you can purchase a super diffusion membrane with a reflective layer. This is an expensive material, but it solves 3 problems at once: protects from moisture, reflects thermal energy, creates additional insulation and sound insulation.

Then the thermal insulation is laid. The recommended thickness of the insulating layer varies between 10–25 mm, depending on the climatic characteristics of the region. Ideally, a dense layer of insulation fills the free space between the rafters. At the top of the roof, they usually leave a small ventilation gap, which will provide air circulation and prevent condensation inside the insulating cake. We add that if mineral wool is used as insulation for the roof, it cannot be used to cover the electrical wiring.

The final layer is a vapor barrier. This is a film that is designed to trap warm, oversaturated air that rises from living quarters. Here you can also use polyethylene, the joints of which are glued with construction tape. If the work is done correctly, the insulation is in a kind of waterproof cocoon, while the ventilation holes do not interfere natural circulation air. A topcoat is laid on top of the vapor barrier.

The final stage

If the attic will be used as a living or utility room, it is recommended to carry out floor insulation. The work is carried out according to the following scheme:

  • all gaps between the beams are closed;
  • a vapor barrier is laid;
  • insulation is being installed, usually mineral wool or foam;
  • a layer of expanded clay is filled up;
  • the screed is poured.

It is laid on top of the base flooring such as linoleum, boards or laminate.

Secrets of outdoor insulation

Thermal insulation can be placed inside or outside. Each of the options for carrying out work has its own advantages and disadvantages.

For example, if thermal insulation is placed on the outer surface of the roof, the dew point shifts towards the street, therefore, there is no need to fear condensation. However, the performance of such work directly depends on weather conditions, and only high-quality and, therefore, expensive materials are used for insulation.

  • insulation sheets are placed between the roof lags or expanded clay is poured;
  • waterproofing is laid;
  • installation of the topcoat is in progress.
  • If it is insulated flat roof Insulation sheets are arranged at an angle of 5-7 degrees in two layers. As a fastener, only special screws with wide caps are used so as not to push through the insulation. It is recommended to use foil-insol or bitumen-polymer compositions as waterproofing.

    Insulation of the roof from the inside is carried out not only in order to arrange an additional room in the attic, but also for maximum preservation of heat throughout the house.

    If the building has an attic roof, then the insulation is carried out directly on the roof itself, which is not only a roof for the future room, but also walls. If the structure or has one slope, then most often the thermal insulation is arranged in the attic floor.

    The third option for thermal insulation measures is used in regions with a harsh climate, where both the roof itself and the ceiling are insulated from the inside.

    Types of insulation used

    The modern building materials market offers a lot types of insulation, of which you can choose a suitable one for any thermal insulation work.

    • Bulk materials are sawdust, expanded clay of different fractions, slag, dry leaves or needles. These heaters are used for filling in attic floor, and they perfectly protect the lower rooms of the house from the penetration of cold, but they will not be able to make the attic itself warm.

    • Mineral wool different types, expanded polystyrene, penoflex and polyurethane foam are suitable for insulating both attic floors and.

    All of these materials are light enough, so they will not weigh down the structure of the roof and the whole house, but they will make it much warmer. The technologies for installing thermal insulation materials differ from each other, so it is worth considering some of them.

    It should be noted that with the advent of auxiliary materials that facilitate the process of work and are aimed at protecting the thermal insulation itself from external influences and their preservation of their performance, it became easier to carry out the installation process.

    Video: mineral wool is an excellent material for roof insulation

    Mineral wool prices

    Mineral wool

    Vapor barrier coatings

    One of these materials is vapor barrier film... It is designed to protect wooden structures and insulation from exposure to vapors arising from temperature changes and leading to the formation of condensation. Excessive moisture provokes the appearance of mold, which destroys the structure of the tree, reduces the thermal insulation characteristics of the insulation and contributes to the appearance bad smell in room.


    The vapor barrier membrane is fixed to the roof or ceiling structure prior to the installation of insulation materials.

    When using a vapor barrier film in a heated room, it is placed only under the finishing layer of the walls.

    To protect structures that are exposed to high temperatures on one side, and on the other - low, the vapor barrier must be located on both sides. Such structures include wooden attic floors and roofs when insulated. Concrete plates do not require laying of vapor barrier materials.


    Protective film may have different thickness and be of different types - the usual nonwoven fabric or foil membrane. In the case of using the latter on the structure of the attic floor, it is laid down with foil, since it reflects the heat rising from below to the ceiling, thereby preventing it from escaping outside. The sheets of material are fastened together with foil tape, which helps to create the tightness of the coating.


    Prices for different types of insulating films

    Insulating films

    Insulation of the attic floor

    Any insulation measures are best carried out in the process of building a house, but, unfortunately, very often they are done only when they feel the winter cold.


    Before falling asleep or laying insulation, you need to preparatory work... This is especially important if you use fine expanded clay, slag or sawdust.

    • Previously, when there were no modern auxiliary materials on sale, a plank attic floor was prepared as follows:

    - Boards, fixed to the floor beams, were thoroughly coated with a solution of clay or lime, having an average consistency in density. These natural materials create a good airtightness of the floor, but at the same time, they allow the whole structure to "breathe".

    - After the clay or lime had completely dried, the insulation works were carried out. Previously, this was mainly used slag, sawdust, dry leaves or a mixture of these materials. They fell asleep between the beams on prepared boards.

    It should be noted that the old traditional method- is reliable enough, and therefore some builders even prefer it to modern ones to this day.

    • V modern construction Basically, a special vapor barrier film is used for the flooring under the insulation. Its canvases are laid completely over the entire area of ​​the attic with an overlap of 15–20 cm, deepening between the beams and fixing them to boards and beams. It is recommended to glue the canvases together with construction tape.

    The film will become an additional obstacle on the way out of the premises of the house for heat through the ceiling, since the heated air, going up not finding a way out, it will go down and stay inside the house.

    • Further, insulating material is poured onto the film, mineral wool is laid, expanded clay is poured, or the openings between the beams are filled with ecowool. You can also use the insulation used earlier - slag or sawdust.

    • To avoid cold bridges across wooden beams, they also need to fix a layer of thin insulation.

    • Above insulation material another layer of vapor barrier is laid, in the same way as before - with an overlap. This layer of film is fixed to the floor beams with slats, which are more often called counter-battens.
    • A covering of boards or thick plywood is laid on top.

    Sometimes the vapor barrier can be fixed from inside the room to wooden ceiling, but in this case it will be necessary to finish it, for example, gypsum plasterboards... They will level the ceiling and become another additional insulation layer.

    Insulation of roof slopes


    When insulating roof slopes, as well as when insulating floors, they are used mineral wool and expanded polystyrene, but mineral wool in this case it is preferable, since it has practically zero flammability.

    If, nevertheless, it is decided to use foam, then it is recommended to purchase an extruded version. Although it has a slightly higher thermal conductivity, it is not flammable, which is very important for wooden structures.

    To insulate the roof slopes, use different systems, but they always contain a layer of vapor barrier material, insulation, waterproofing and counter-lattice.


    1. This diagram shows one of the options for the insulation "pie". It is used in roof construction and roof decking.

    • On rafter system is being laid. Usually, for this layer, polyethylene is used, which has a high density (more than 200 microns thick) - it will also protect the roof not only from moisture, but from wind penetration under it. The film is laid with an overlap of 20 ÷ 25 cm and fixed to the rafters using staples and a stapler.
    • On top of the film, a counter-rail with a thickness of 5 ÷ 7 mm is fixed on each rafter. It is necessary in order to roofing material did not adjoin directly to the waterproofing film, and there was a small distance between them for air circulation.
    • Further, if the roof slopes are covered with soft roofing material, it is necessary to lay plywood on top of the counter rails. In the case when slate or other rigid sheet material, instead of plywood, a crate is arranged, the width between its slats is calculated according to the length of the sheets of roofing material.
    • When the lathing is ready, the roof is covered with the chosen covering.

    After that, you can proceed to the insulation measures that are carried out from the inside, that is, from the attic.


    • Mats of mineral wool or other insulation are placed between the rafters. They should fit as tightly as possible between the elements of the wooden structure. Installation of mats is carried out, starting from the bottom, gradually rising to the ridge. Insulation should be the same thickness as the width of the rafters or slightly less her, by about 10 ÷ 15 mm.
    • The laid insulation is tightened with a vapor barrier film, which is fixed to the rafters with slats. The film is also overlapped and glued with construction tape.

    Final stage - decorative trim attic walls
    • Further, if the attic space will be equipped for a living room, then the entire surface is sheathed with plasterboard or clapboard. In addition, in this case, in addition to the walls and the ceiling, the floors are also insulated, that is, the attic floor.

    2. Another option may be a thicker insulation "cake", which is also installed immediately when installing the roof.


    • In this case, a waterproofing windproof film is also laid on the rafter system.
    • A crate for the roofing material is arranged on top of it.
    • Further from the side of the attic, between the rafters, lay the first a layer of insulation, which should be equal to the width of the rafters.
    • Then, transverse slats are stuffed onto the rafters at a distance from each other equal to the width of the next layer of insulation. In this case, a thinner insulation is used. Its thickness must be equal to the thickness of the padded crossbars.
    • After that comes a vapor barrier film, which is fixed to the slats with brackets.
    • The interior decoration material is then attached to the slats.

    If the roof is insulated in an already built house, where the roof covering is fixed, then a vapor barrier is fixed to the rafters from the attic side with brackets, and only after that the insulation is laid. Further, the process proceeds in the same way as in the previous versions.

    Insulation of the roof from the inside with polyurethane foam

    Insulation with polyurethane foam is different than bulk materials or mineral wool and foam mats.

    This method of thermal insulation in recent times becomes more and more popular and is suitable both for ordinary attics and for the attic, which will later become an additional room.


    If the attic is ventilated, and a living space will not be arranged in it, then only the attic floor is insulated. For this, it is recommended to moisten boards and beams for better adhesion, and a thin layer of polyurethane foam is sprayed onto the wet surface between the beams. After it has foamed, increased in volume and solidified, if necessary, another layer is applied. Such insulation will be quite enough to keep the house warm, since the foam penetrates into all the cracks and closes them hermetically.

    If the attic allows for its height to arrange a room on it, or the attic is an attic superstructure to the house, in addition to overlapping with polyurethane foam, the roof slopes are also insulated.

    Spraying starts from the bottom of the structure, gradually rising to the ridge. Foam is sprayed between the rafters, and its lower layers, rising and solidifying, will be the reference for the next upper applied levels.


    A similar or loft space creates a completely sealed, unventilated space. Polyurethane foam will retain heat well indoors in winter time and will not allow the attic to overheat on hot summer days. However, ventilation should still be provided, since the room must necessarily receive air flow.

    This type of thermal insulation has the following advantages over other heaters:

    • The polyurethane foam coating does not have joints or seams throughout the insulated area.
    • Achieved a significant reduction in temperature differences in the attic and rooms on the lower floors.
    • The building receives reliable protection from low and high temperatures affecting the house outside.
    • This method of insulation shows a high payback in a very short time, due to the reduction of heating costs due to the low thermal conductivity of the sprayed material.
    • When spraying polyurethane foam directly onto the roof, it receives additional rigidity and strength, since the leveling coating forms a reliable connection with the entire roof structure. At the same time, the polyurethane foam layer does not significantly increase the roof weight.
    • Convenience application - foam closes all hard-to-reach places roofs and ceilings, penetrating into all large and small holes and cracks, expanding and sealing walls and floors.
    • Polyurethane foam is highly resistant to moisture, to the appearance any form biological life, high and low temperatures, prevents the emergence and development of wood decay processes.
    • Foam provides not only excellent thermal insulation to the premises, but also well insulates from extraneous noise from the outside.
    • Polyurethane foam does not shrink, wrinkle or soften.
    • The insulation has a fairly long service life, which is about 30 years.
    • The material does not emit substances toxic to the human body and unpleasant odors.

    The disadvantages of sprayed insulation include the following factors:

    • The toxicity of the material during its application, therefore, you need to work with the use of protective equipment.

    Non-cured polyurethane foam is quite toxic, so all work is carried out with the obligatory protective equipment for the skin, eyes and respiratory organs
    • Polyurethane foam is susceptible to the negative influence of ultraviolet rays, therefore, after applying the insulation, it must be closed finishing material, for example, clapboard, plywood or drywall.
    • For installation work on polyurethane foam insulation, you must have special expensive equipment. True, if you have the skills to work with this material, then the equipment can be rented. But in the case when this work is unfamiliar, it is better not to risk it, but to invite specialists with equipment to spray the material.

    Video: spraying polyurethane foam on the roof slopes from the inside

    Insulation of the attic and roof is necessary for buildings located in most Russian regions, therefore, this process should not be postponed "until later", but it is necessary to carry out thermal insulation work even at the stage of building a house. Excluding the method of spraying polyurethane, all other insulation measures can be carried out independently, observing the technology of work. If you enlist the help of a friend, then the roof insulation can well be done in a few days.

    For a long time in Russia, problems with roof insulation did not arise at all: straw was knitted or reeds were dried, and that was all - the roof of the house was reliably protected from both rain and cold. But modern coatings have absolutely no heat-insulating properties, and with all the development of progress, up to 30% of all heat flows through such a roof.

    Therefore, if you do not want to warm up the atmosphere, study in detail the insulation of the roof from the inside - in this article we will reveal all the points!

    Conditionally, roof insulation in the construction world is divided into an attic, when the roof slopes are insulated, and an attic, when the ceiling is insulated.

    Like this? We can say that the attic also has its own attic - this is the ventilation gap between the internal insulation and the installed roofing... The fact is that heat, according to all the laws of physics, always rises up and seeks its way out into the atmosphere. It passes both through the insulation and through the vapor barrier, and together with water vapor. And here, in the eaves plumb, the outside air is pulled up, which passes to the ridge and along the way picks up both vapors and excess heat with it. Through aerators or the same ridge, all this is safely removed and does not cause any problems.

    Those. for an ordinary, unused roof, the attic takes up all the space from the ridge to the attic floor, and at the attic, the attic is just a small space under the slopes between the insulation and the roof covering. And in the insulation of both, the type of roof is our own approach, which we will now study.

    Cold roof insulation technology

    If your roof is cold, then the insulating layer should not be on the slopes, but on the floor of the attic. It is here that he stops the heat flow coming from below, and does not allow the cold from the roof to descend into the lower living quarters. As a result, the temperature in the attic is kept within + 1-2 degrees, the roofing material is not heated. In fact, such an attic serves as a necessary air gap between living rooms houses and a thin roof overlap.

    All rolled, slab and bulk insulation materials are suitable for the attic floor. Because overlapping the slope has no special requirement for the used thermal insulation material he does not: nothing will crumble and will not be exposed.

    Pay attention to the fact that after insulating the roof, properly organized ventilation remains in it: there must be dormer windows facing each other, ventilation skates and aerators, and in the cornices - round-the-clock access for sucking in outside air. As a result, the temperature in the non-residential attic space should be as close as possible to the outdoor temperature, and the living space below it is already separated from it by the competent thermal insulation of the floor.

    Now let's take a closer look at cold roof insulation.

    Mineral wool insulation

    When insulating the attic floor with mineral wool, first of all, pay attention to the distance between the slats or logs - it should be slightly less than a roll or mat of insulation.

    Usually, the insulation of the inner space of the roof is complicated. uneven surface the floor of the attic, the differences in its height, big amount slats and bars, not to mention ventilation pipes and wiring:

    Thermal insulation with ecowool

    If you want the house to breathe, and the steam can easily go up, then insulate the attic floor with modern ecowool:

    Warming with blown wool

    Recently, blowing - roof insulation with blown cotton wool has become more and more popular. The Japanese "insulation" Esbro-Wool II is used here, which does not emit dust, and therefore does not create problems. And the blowing method itself is actually quite simple:

    • Step 1. We put a vertical ruler on the floor and mark the required spraying height of mineral wool.
    • Step 2. Apply insulation evenly to the desired level.
    • Step 3. We put the insulation so tightly that one cubic meter has 25 kg of weight.

    Note that this type of insulation is the most popular in Japan, and has already found many supporters in Russia.

    Insulation with glass wool

    And, finally, glass wool - if you will not use the attic at all. The fact is that even glass wool, closed under the crate, sometimes irritates the ENT organs. Why you have to wear a respirator and goggles when working with it:

    Warming with sawdust

    When insulating a roof with sawdust, follow these instructions:

    • Step 1. First of all, you need to protect the wooden structure. To do this, we first apply an antiseptic composition, then - fire-retardant mixtures, and on top - water repellents.
    • Step 2. The next step is to put a backing (cardboard can be used) and close the seams and cracks, if any, with foam (large) or sealant (small). At the end, trim the foam that has crawled out and level it with the beams.
    • Step 3. Now we fill in the sawdust, in two layers: first, the coarser fraction, as well as the shavings, and then - fine, so that dust does not form in the room.
    • Step 4. But so that rodents do not start on the floor of the attic, in addition to the sawdust, add dry lime and fine broken glass.

    Warm roof insulation technology

    The mansard roof is a special design. There is also cold attic, only it is very small, tk. the insulated attic ceiling is almost closely drawn to it with the help of an additional lathing. In fact, there is only space for ventilation, and no more. And ventilation serves so that the heat from the attic does not touch the roofing in any way, on which snow should remain in winter as a heat insulator, and not melt.

    Here is a vivid example of the most standard situation of improper insulation of the attic: they install the cheapest rafters of 15 cm each, put fluffy mineral wool in two layers of 5 cm each and cover it all with a roof covering. Ventilation - only 5 cm, without inflow and outlet, because there was no specialist nearby to suggest. As a result, in summer - unbearable heat, from which even air conditioners cannot save, and in winter - generous ice on the roof. And all because the street air is heated the most in this scheme. In other words, the very small attic that we talked about must be, and far from 5 cm.

    And especially carefully in such a roof, you need to think over the vapor barrier:

    And further. The material for the manufacture of rafters is always designed for a certain weight. So, a roof under soft shingles it is possible to build from profiles for drywall, only it cannot be insulated with heavy basalt wool. Also mansard roof good forced ventilation so that the insulation does not rot and deteriorate. Therefore, carefully read all the points of the master classes prepared by us:

    Mineral wool insulation

    Follow this simple instruction:

    • Step 1. Installing hydro and wind protection. Use modern membranes whenever possible - they are stronger and more durable. In any case, fasten the material with an overlap, and glue all joints with construction tape.
    • Step 2. Now we measure the distance between adjacent rafters.
    • Step 3. Using an ordinary or clerical knife, we easily cut the insulation into the necessary pieces and insert it between the rafters.
    • Step 4. We install an additional crate between the membrane and the inner lining.

    Please note that you need to fix the vapor barrier membrane with the smooth side to the insulation, and the fleecy side already inside the room.

    If the distance between the beams is no more than 60 centimeters, it will be more convenient for you to use square insulation mats:

    • Step 1. Inside, under the rafters, it is advisable to finish off the rough crate - so that the insulation has something to rest on. Make the distance between the bars about 20-30 cm.For this purpose, ordinary uncut wood with nails is also quite suitable. average size, it is only important that the bars are of the same thickness.
    • Step 2. After installing the rough lathing inside the structure, remove all dust and dirt with a construction vacuum cleaner.
    • Step 3. Next, we process all the wooden special means from fungus, rot and mold. Just use for this purpose not a spray gun, which is less effective, but a regular paint brush. With its help, you can achieve deep penetration of the product into the wood, and this is important.
    • Step 4. Let the product fully absorb and dry for two to three days.

    As a result, all your sheets should lie tightly - a little denser than necessary at first glance. This is the only way to avoid the presence of cracks and subsequent freezing of the roof.

    And one more thing: ordinary mineral wool slabs are not very suitable for insulating roof slopes, because do not hold well between the rafters, but the gables can be insulated with them.


    Insulation with glass wool

    To insulate roof slopes with glass wool, purchase the best, from renowned manufacturers... Such glass wool contains practically no hazardous glass glass, which most of all annoys workers. Also, after styling, it does not emit harmful substances, which is even confirmed by the Finnish Institute of Health. After all, it's one thing to throw this "thorn" on the overlap of an unused attic, and another thing - to cover it with a clapboard in a billiard room or personal account on the attic floor.

    Combined insulation

    If desired and appropriate, you can insulate the roof from the inside with two different kinds heaters at the same time. But one must take into account important point- vapor permeability. The fact is that when choosing different heaters for an effective combination, we usually only summarize their heat-insulating properties. But their steam capacity is completely different!

    And if, for example, you put down the mineral wool first, and then foam plastic on top, then the water vapor trapped in the cotton wool will begin to tend to the colder part of the roof and burrow into absolutely non-breathing foam. As a result, all the insulation will simply suffocate and "please" with mold. But on the contrary, you can: first, put foam plastic on the bottom of the rafters, and on it - mineral wool. If some steam passes through the vapor barrier and the gaps between the foam plates, then it will easily overcome the mineral wool and get into ventilation duct... Therefore, there is such a rule: the top layer of insulation should always have high vapor permeability and thermal conductivity.

    And finally, if the warm roof will be used as a sauna or an additional bathroom, insulation and roofing cake in it you need to think over especially carefully.

    Insulating the roof from the inside is the best option for carrying out work for several reasons.


    Roof insulation is done only for residential attic rooms, due to this, heat losses are significantly reduced and the comfort of living increases. Today companies produce a wide range of materials for insulation, all have both positive and negative sides... When choosing a specific insulation, it is important to know its features and take into account the characteristics of the building's truss system.

    There are many names of materials for insulation, but they are all divided into two large groups.

    Table. Roof insulation groups.

    Insulation nameOperational and physical characteristics

    This group includes basalt mineral wool, glass wool from recycled glass and ecowool from waste paper. Cotton wool insulation can be pressed in the form of mats of standard sizes or rolled. There are options for spraying liquid ecowool. In terms of thermal conductivity and weight, the listed species hardly differ from each other. The most expensive mineral wool.

    Polyfoam, expanded polystyrene, polyurethane foam, etc. All these heaters are made on the basis of the same polymer, differ in production technology and some additives. Most often they look like slabs of various thicknesses and sizes, and can differ significantly in terms of physical strength. Thermal conductivity is almost the same, minor fluctuations do not have any effect in practice. The range of prices is large. They can be used in liquid form (sprayed on) or as slabs.

    As an example, we will consider the two most common options for insulating a roof from the inside. Examples are not only budgetary, but also effective. The process is divided into several stages, from correct execution each of them depends on the final quality of work.

    Styrofoam prices

    Styrofoam

    Inspection of the rafter system and roof covering

    Highly important stage preparation for insulation. Make an audit of all elements of the roofing system, check the condition of the roof covering. If problems are found, they must be fixed immediately.

    Measure the distance between the rafter legs, this will help you navigate the choice of insulation. The fact is that all heaters have standard sizes in width... Due to this, they simplify and accelerate assembly work and the amount of waste is reduced. The width of the insulation is 60 cm, but, unfortunately, some manufacturers allow fluctuations in one direction or another by several centimeters. The distance between the rafter legs should be within 56–57 cm. In practice, such correct roofs are rarely found.

    See if a windscreen is installed between the roof and the attic space, if it has air vents for natural ventilation... This is very important in cases where insulation is planned to be done with mineral wool.

    Prices for material for vapor barrier

    Vapor barrier material

    Selection and purchase of materials

    The most commonly used materials for roof insulation are mineral wool and polystyrene, it is on them that we will dwell in detail. If you have a simple gable roof, then its insulation is not very difficult technologically. A completely different situation with a broken line or hipped roof... These structures have many different stops, purlins, ties and other elements that reinforce the rafter system. During insulation, you have to cut the mineral wool or foam plastic, make various folds and bends. As a result, the complexity of the work increases and the amount of waste increases.

    But this is not all the problem. Complex roofs can never be hermetically closed with a vapor barrier, there will always be places through which wet air in a heater. This is a very unpleasant phenomenon for mineral wool. Experienced builders recommend to insulate complex roofs with foam, and not take risks with mineral wool. Wet wool not only almost completely loses its heat-saving ability, but also accelerates the putrefactive processes of wooden structures of the truss system.

    Roof insulation works

    The technology of work largely depends on the material chosen, but there are general tips for all cases.


    If there is an opportunity to work with an assistant - great, the insulation process will go much faster. There is no such possibility - it's okay, all the work can be done independently.

    This is not a simple unit, as a rule, we often ignore it, both by roofers and facades. They often do it badly, because it closes with hemming material, if you can't see why you should try. Let's figure it out.

    Just imagine, the last crown of the box of the house, the ends go down beyond the perimeter of the well of the house rafter legs, pockets are formed between them, to plug these pockets they push in a sawn board on the knee, and everything, the fit at the board is bad, they put it for what it would be, but in the case of insulation along the rafters, this node is the end of the wall and the contour of insulation along the rafters. Meanwhile, in a given place of the wall and roof, processes of increased danger always occur, for example with outside in winter, warm air arrives there from the ajar windows and from inner side this node is a leak warm air from the room with a poor-quality vapor barrier circuit, which ultimately leads to the formation of icicles on the cornice. And for a number of reasons.

    Poor thermal insulation of ceilings. Poor ventilation of the attic space. On a warm roof, the roofing cake is incorrectly made. Natural factors during thaws. Improper exploitation of the attic space.

    What I am talking about in this article is just one of the stages so that this does not happen with your roofs.


    In fact, there is nothing especially complicated, there is simply no need to rush and do everything carefully and carefully. The material with which you work and the accessories are of decisive importance, as a rule, all the junction is glued and sealed and it is best to use materials and accessories from one manufacturer, this will guarantee the long-term operation of these units.