Cable laying in a wooden house with aluminum pipes. Which cable is best for a wooden house

Installation of electrical wiring in wooden house- a more responsible event than the laying of conductive routes in a brick or concrete structure. This is due to the specifics of the material: wood burns, even if it is impregnated with a compound that prevents ignition from accidental coal.

The importance of correct installation

The temperature of the electric arc that occurs when the conductors are short-circuited through which the current runs with a voltage of standard 220 V can reach 5000 ° C (!). No fire-prevention impregnation helps from the temperature that melts steel.

Despite this, the wiring in a log house of rounded logs or a frame country house is often done "slipshod", if not negligent.

This is usually motivated by a reluctance to bother with the dacha, where they live for two to three months a year. But it is worth understanding: poorly made internal wiring wooden house able to leave you without this very house.

Please note that "poor quality" primarily means "not according to the rules provided for a wooden house." The usual practice of installing a household electrical network in an apartment or a brick house is not suitable for a wooden one due to the combustibility of the building material.

What the regulations say

Electrical installation rules - PUE - give an unequivocal answer to this question. Concealed wiring in the voids of partitions made of combustible materials is permissible only in metal pipes that have the property of localization.

SNiP gives a more vague wording, therefore it is recommended to be guided by the PUE. By combustible material is meant just wood, even with a fireproof impregnation.

Under the metal pipe - a steel or copper pipe of a square or round profile with a regulated wall thickness of at least 2.8 mm for any cable with a conductor cross-section of up to 4 mm.

For cables with a cross section of 6-10 mm, the pipe wall thickness should be 3.2 mm.

In this case, it is forbidden to tightly "hammer" the pipe with cables - the cable should occupy no more than 40% of the clearance.

To enter the cable from the power line into a wooden house, only a thick-walled steel sleeve is used.

This requirement is due to the following situation. In the event of a short circuit during cable breakdown, only a thick-walled pipe is able to withstand a flash until it self-extinguishes or fires circuit breaker.

The use of metal hoses or other "armor" made of corrugated metal or plastic for hidden wiring in a wooden house is unacceptable for the following reasons:

The main "unofficial" rule of high-quality wiring in chopped wooden houses is the prevalence of safety over external beauty.

Laying in pipes

Laying wiring in steel or copper pipes, observing the above requirements, is possible only at the stage of building a house from scratch.

For example, when installing electrical wiring in a house made of laminated veneer lumber, the installation of a system of such pipes, junction boxes and sockets (also metal) is carried out at the stage of installing the frame.

Hidden wiring rules power cables in a wooden house, it is not allowed to lay the cable in a metal or plastic corrugation in the cut-out grooves. inside the walls of a wooden house in thick-walled pipes is acceptable, but difficult due to the need to bend pipes and make complex connections using couplings, fittings or welding.

There are a number of requirements that must be observed when installing hidden wiring in a wooden house.

Inner surface steel pipes should be painted or galvanized to avoid corrosion, copper - painted to protect against oxides.

The use of a metal hose / steel corrugation on bends and transitions makes the whole structure meaningless - transitions are provided by threaded connections or butt-to-butt welding.

Horizontally, electrical wiring pipes in a wooden house are laid at a slight angle for condensate to escape, at the lowest point a hole is made for the liquid to drain (not inside the wall). A ground connection is provided for the entire system - separate from the ground provided by wiring.

In wooden houses, only metal sockets are used for sockets and switches. The connections of the junction box with the pipes entering it must be tight.

In order to avoid damage to the cable sheathing with a sharp edge when exiting the pipe, the edge should be rolled up or provided with a protective plastic plug.

Open wiring - installation features

If a wooden house has already been built, but there is a need to replace the wiring in it, then this can be done without sawing the grooves in wooden partitions, which are often not too thick and durable in themselves.

Recall that aluminum wire, the most popular among electricians of past years, is categorically unacceptable in a wooden house due to its tendency to fracture and fire hazard.

Open wiring in a wooden house is quite possible. Here are some options.

You can run the cable directly along the wall of the house, enclosing it in a standard plastic corrugation or metal flexible armor.

The open method allows this wiring method, since the fire site in the event of a short circuit will be visible immediately. There will be no fire inside the wall.

Wall mounting is carried out with conventional corrugation clips.

Wiring in standard cable ducts - the same method as for an apartment, only between the cable duct and a wooden wall a non-combustible gasket made of asbestos or, for example, felt, must be provided. A type of such wiring is wiring disguised as a baseboard.

A fresh look at old methods. The wiring is mounted on the wall of a wooden house on ceramic or plastic (non-combustible) insulators, maintaining a clearance of at least 10 mm from the wall.

A special, "antique" twisted power cable and sockets of the same style are used.

Open installation of a metal pipe system is also possible.

Advantages and disadvantages of surface mounting

All these wiring methods for a wooden house have their own advantages and disadvantages. Installation of wiring on a wooden wall of a house in a corrugated pipe is the easiest way, there are no problems with wiring in the junction box.

The downside is the unaestheticness of this method, as well as the need to remove the entire corrugated pipe as a whole in order to gain access to one cable.

In this respect, the cable duct is preferable, since now on the market you can find the color of the box "under the tree", and choose an individual shade to match the color of your inner coating.

The cable duct is convenient during installation - it is easy to open and close, and is relatively safe for a wooden house, as it is itself made of non-combustible plastic.

If you wish, you can hide the wires by selecting the "bottom" wiring in the cable channel, disguised as a plinth.

Please note that it is not permissible to terminate wires under a real skirting board!

Lighting or connection of sockets with a load of no more than 16 A can be carried out using semi-antique wiring.

For this, specially stylized wires are produced, insulators between the wall and the wire, sockets and the like. But keep in mind that for a powerful load like welding machine it is necessary to provide an outlet to which a suitable cable with a cross section of at least 2.5 mm is connected.

General installation rules

The wiring device in a wooden house in an open way must be carried out in compliance with the following standards:

the point of entry of the cable from the power line into the wall, as well as the point of passage of the cable through the internal ceilings only in metal thick-walled sleeves;
the distance from the cable to the wall during open installation is not less than 10 mm;
grounding must be installed;
only a cable in a non-combustible sheath is used;
socket boxes and junction boxes in a wooden house, only made of metal;
connecting wires to each other only in junction boxes, and only using spring / screw terminals or soldered twisting, which is closed with a cambric or cap;
unsoldered twisting is not allowed.

Be sure to install RCDs to protect against leakage currents, as well as separate circuit breakers for short-circuit protection for each consumer group.

Cable selection

An important stage in the wiring work is the selection of the main cable. Choosing the right cable for wiring means solving the main problem of the safety of a wooden house.

According to modern requirements, a so-called self-supporting insulated wire (self-supporting insulated wire) is used to extend from the power line to the house.

It uses aluminum conductors with a cross section of at least 16 mm, and there is also a steel reinforcing cable (for rigidity).

The sheath of this cable is designed to withstand adverse external factors for at least 25 years.

But the SIP cable can only be laid up to the wall of a wooden house. On the outside walls through special insulators, or better sealed clamps, it is connected to a copper cable, for example VVGng (ng - not flammable).

The VVGng section is selected as standard - 1.5 mm for the lighting line, 2.5 mm for household appliances, 4 mm for powerful consumers such as an electric stove, electric heating line or a welding machine.

Direct twisting of SIP aluminum conductors with copper conductors of internal wiring is prohibited.

Only copper is used for wiring inside a wooden house. When choosing a brand of wire, use or the already mentioned VVGng, VVGng (P) marked "GOST".

These types of single core copper cables are double insulated, yet flexible enough for easy internal wiring.

You can use German NYM cable - it is equipped with triple non-combustible insulation.

Switchboard device

A general distribution board for wiring in a wooden house must have a metal case.

Inside the switchboard there is an introductory circuit breaker, an electric meter, one or several RCDs (depending on the number of groups of internal consumers). There are also circuit breakers responsible for individual groups - the same number as RCDs.

It is the automation that is responsible for protecting the wiring from short circuit and current leakage, which can lead to electric shock. There are rules for calculating the choice of protective devices according to their characteristics, and it is better to leave this choice to a professional.

But it's worth knowing that in most cases the rules are as follows. The power consumption should not exceed 5.5 kW, the general input automatic machine is single-phase, 25 A, type C.

The machines are installed according to separate groups of consumers (selected according to the wire cross-section). A 16A machine must be installed on a 1.5 mm cable (lighting). For a 2.5 mm cable - 20A.

There are separate rules for the selection of RCDs. The main one is that the current limitation for an RCD should be an order of magnitude less than for an automatic machine.

That is, a 16 A machine is equipped with a 20A RCD, and so on. A three-phase input for wiring in a wooden house is very rarely used.

The deterioration of the environment has led to an increase in demand for natural building materials, including wood. In Russia, wood is steadily in demand due to the availability of this environmentally friendly material with good thermal insulation properties, relatively low specific gravity and easy to process.

In private housing construction, wood today is not a way out of a situation with a limited budget, but a full-fledged construction material, but - due to flammability, requiring the use of special technologies, including when installing power supply systems for housing.

Consider the wiring device in a wooden house, regulated by the requirements of PUE-7, SNiP 3.05-06-85 and SNiP 31-02-2001.

Requirements for electrical wiring in a wooden house

In wooden houses, as in stone buildings, the power supply system is installed in two ways:

hidden - less in demand;
open - more common.

Both technologies do not eliminate the electric current factor, but they minimize the associated risks, since all wood is combustible, and even impregnation special formulations only lowers the degree of flammability of the wood. The basic requirements for the installation of electrical wiring in wooden houses are defined in the Rules for the Installation of Electrical Installations:

Electrical networks laid behind impassable suspended ceilings and in partitions are considered as hidden electrical wiring and they should be carried out: behind ceilings and in voids of partitions made of combustible materials in metal pipes with localization ability and in closed boxes; behind ceilings and in partitions made of non-combustible materials * - in pipes and boxes made of non-combustible materials, as well as flame-retardant cables. In this case, the possibility of replacing wires and cables must be ensured.

*Non-combustible suspended ceilings are understood to be those that are made of non-combustible materials, while other building structures located above the suspended ceilings, including intermediate floors, are also made of non-combustible materials.

In addition to those specified in the PUE, for the installation of electrical wiring in a wooden house, there are rules common to both methods of installation:

use of cables with copper conductors;
insulation of conductive cores must be made of non-combustible material ( optimal choice- NYM cables or its analogs VVGng);
calculation of the cable cross-section for current load with a margin of 30%;

Table of the dependence of the cable cross-section on the load power

P (W)	I (A)	Copper
		Open wiring		Concealed wiring
		S (mm2)	d (mm2)	S (mm2)	d (mm2)
500	2,17	0,43	0,74	0,54	0,83
1000	4,35	0,87	1,05	1,09	1,18
1500	6,52	1,30	1,29	1,63	1,44
2000	8,70	1,74	1,49	2,17	1,66
3000	13,04	2,61	1,82	3,26	2,04
4000	17,39	3,48	2,10	4,35	2,35
5000	21,74	4,35	2,35	5,43	2,63
10000	43,48	8,7	3,33	10,87	3,72

mandatory installation of the grounding loop;
the distribution board must be isolated from the base - placed in the mini-box.

Entering power into a wooden house

The internal power supply system of the house is connected to the electrical network by the local power supply organization - at the request of the consumer, with the installation of an electric meter and only if there is a project.

Power supply to a wooden house is carried out in one of two ways:

By air line.
Underground cable laying.

Overhead connection

The rules for connecting a private house to power supply from an overhead line are determined by clause 3.18 of SNiP 3.05.06-85.
According to these standards, at the power supply input to the building, the following should be applied:

insulated cables in a sheath of class NG (non-combustible) with a conductor cross-section of 4 mm² for copper and from 2.5 mm² for aluminum;
insulated wires of the same cross-sectional dimensions.

At the design points of the passage of cables through combustible structures, sections of steel pipe (sleeves) are installed so that their sections protrude outward by 1 cm.The gaps between the sleeves and the walls of the holes made are sealed cement mortar.

To exclude the ingress of rainwater and the accumulation of condensate, bushings in the outer walls are mounted with a slope of 5 degrees.

At the section of passage through the steel sleeve, a piece of rubber tube is put on each wire - an additional rubber sleeve.

At the ends of each of the rubber sleeves, observing the alignment, special introductory fittings are put on: outside - a funnel, and with inside- bushing. These products are made in one piece from porcelain or split with tension clamps - in stainless steel or galvanized steel.

For a wooden house, the distance between adjacent funnels (outside) should be at least 10 cm. The bushings and funnels of both pipes are filled with a bituminous waterproofing compound at the end of the installation.

Conditional section of the power supply input from the overhead line into the wall of a wooden house

The wires outside should be located at a distance of at least 0.2 m from each other and from the protruding structures of the house, and the point of entry of the power supply into the house (a hook with an insulator) is arranged at a height of at least 2.75 m from the surface of the blind area.

In addition to porcelain and metal lugs, when installing a cable into a house from an overhead line, various UKP (cable gland seals) are also used, including heat-shrinkable ones. As a rule, such devices are designed for a certain range of cable and sleeve diameters, so choosing the right size is not difficult.

Further wiring inside the house at the cable exit from the porcelain sleeve depends on the design method of its installation (hidden, open).

Electricity input through a pipe stand

When the height of the building is insufficient to meet the requirements of the PUE for the vertical connection parameters overhead line, the input of power to a wooden house is carried out through a pipe stand - a hollow mast, vertically mounted on the outside on a wall or roof and serving as a channel for the cable.

Tubes are made of steel pipes with an inner diameter:

from 20 mm - when power is supplied with two wires;
from 32 mm - for four conductors.

In the upper section of the pipe stand, in order to exclude rainwater and snow from entering it, a semicircle is formed with the help of a pipe bender.

Approximately in the middle of the height, a horizontal crossbeam from a steel angle 40x40 mm, 45-50 cm long, with two vertical steel rods for mounting ceramic insulators is welded to the pipe stand.

At the transition of the arc into a straight section, a ring (washer, nut) is mounted to the pipe, to which two braces from steel wire- to counteract the tension created by the overhead line.

Some hardware (bolt, nut, hairpin) is also welded to the pipe stand - for its "zeroing" by connecting to a zero conductor.

In the lower part of the pipe stand, using the same pipe bender, an angle of 85 ° is formed so that the bent section of the pipe (10 cm longer than the wall thickness) after installation of the structure is located in the wall with an inward rise of 5 °. In the lower part of this bend, a Ø 5 mm hole is drilled in the pipe - for the condensate outlet.

The edges of the sections of the pipe stand are processed with a file, after which the structure is covered from the outside with two layers of anti-corrosion paint.

If, when installing the pipe stand on the wall, the distance from its lowest point to the ground is less than 2 m, then it is mounted on the roof, arranging the power supply to the dwelling through the roof. Special attention in this situation, the rigidity of mounting the rack on the roofing and sealing the passage in it is paid.

Before installation on the project site, a "conductor" (cable or thin wire) for subsequent pulling the cable through it. The structure is installed in place and attached to the anchors mounted on the base, after which it is equipped with guy wires and the gaps in the passage are sealed. Threaded connections "bolt-nut" are made using washer-spring and are covered with protective layer technical vaseline.

Underground cable connection

Entering power supply into a wooden house with an underground cable is more reliable and safe, since the impact of external factors on the conductor is minimal when it is laid correctly.

Entering electricity into an underground house cable line regulated by clause 12.1 VSN 59-88 (Departmental Building Norms).

The underground power supply to the house should be carried out only
armored cables that are laid in a trench without pipe protection. In practice, the use of unprotected cables placed in electrical polymer pipes is a violation of current regulations.

From the trench, the power cable is brought into the building in one of two ways:

through a foundation or wall basement floor- with the installation of a thick-walled pass-through sleeve made of steel;
through the outer wall - with the entrance to the building at a height of at least 2.75 m and protection from a pipe up to a height of 1.8 m.

The power supply of the house via an underground cable is arranged during the construction of the building - at the stage of construction of the foundation, which makes it possible to provide for everything necessary for the introduction of communications.

Electric meter installation

According to the requirements of the energy supervision authorities, electricity meters in private houses should be installed in places with the possibility of constant access by controlling persons. Consequently, the shield has to be mounted outside, where the components placed in it are exposed to weather conditions. With this in mind, two distribution boards are installed in a private house:

outdoor - for placing an electric meter and the required minimum of additional devices (at the expense of the power supply company);
internal - located in the house, connected to an external switchboard, equipped with the equipment necessary for safe and convenient control of the housing power supply system (at the expense of the owner of the building).

Unlike stone houses and city apartments, where they prefer built-in models when choosing a mini-box, hinged distribution boards are mounted in wooden houses - dust and moisture resistant.

Wiring diagram with the method of its installation - component home project. If a hidden laying of an internal power supply system is designed, then the possibility of implementing such a solution begins to be provided in the process of assembling a log house.

In beams or rounded logs, which must be passed vertical sections wiring, before laying on the project site, technological passages for cables are made - strictly according to the power supply scheme. To form a vertical channel in the wall from logs stacked on top of each other, the holes made in them after the assembly of the structure must be strictly coaxial.

Horizontal passages are arranged after the walls have been erected:

for cables - along and across the logs;
for junction and junction boxes - across.

Horizontal transverse and vertical canals are made with a power drill with a core drill or a Forstner drill.

Longitudinal hidden passages- these are, as a rule, grooves on the beams, arranged using a hand or power tool (chisel, milling cutter). The least time-consuming execution of such a slitting is a "grinder" with a disk cutter for wood.

According to the rules of the PUE, when installing electrical wiring in a hidden way all cables must run through steel (copper) pipes or be insulated from wooden bases with a layer of cement mortar or alabaster of at least 1 cm. Junction boxes and junction boxes must also be made of steel or copper. The connection of the sections of the steel protective channels to each other and to the boxes is carried out by welding or by a threaded method, copper tubes- soldering and crimping. Protective channels and ducts must be grounded.

In a wooden house, it is prohibited to conduct hidden wiring cables in metal hoses. Corrugated metal cases are a 0.2 mm thick strip twisted in a spiral. Protection made of metal of this thickness is not able to localize a short circuit, since its walls do not withstand arc temperatures and instantly burn out. Not capable of localizing the arc and metal hose in a polymer sheath.

Corrugations made of a homogeneous polymer for placing them in channels for hidden wiring are also not suitable - it is almost impossible to fill them with cement mortar in compliance with a layer thickness of 1 cm around the cable. In addition, polymer bellows are susceptible to rodent damage.

The choice of steel pipes for hidden wiring channels is made taking into account the wall thickness, which is regulated by SP 31-110-2003, and the inner diameter.

Maximum conductor cross-section (mm²)		Pipe wall thickness (mm)
Aluminum	Copper	Pipe wall thickness (mm)
up to 4	up to 2.5	not standardized
6	—	2,5
10	4	2,8
16: 25	6; 10	3,2
35; 50	16	3,5
70	25; 35	4,0

The cable placed in the channel should cover no more than 40% of the gap in it.

One way to post hidden wiring- on beams floor slabs... The pipes, according to the wiring diagram, are cut into pieces of the required length, after which a thread is cut at their ends, and a "conductor" is pulled through each element - to tighten the cable after installing the channel in place.

Fragments of pipes are fastened to the beams using clamps, connected to junction boxes and bent down at the design points to supply power to the chandeliers. In parallel, the wiring lines are tightened in them.

After installation, the junction boxes must remain accessible for maintenance, therefore, on the ceiling between the attic and the second floor, they are placed with covers upwards - for access on the floor, and on the beams between the first and second floors - with covers downwards, with access from the ceiling.

At the end of the assembly of the power supply system, its "dial-up" is performed, threaded connections pipes, measuring the resistance of grounding and covering the channels from the outside with two layers of anti-corrosion paint. Then a rough flooring is mounted on top of the beams.

When installing longitudinal horizontal lines of hidden wiring on walls, you can use a thin-walled steel profile for drywall. To do this, grooves of the required section are made in the logs or beams, into which the profile is recessed and fastened with self-tapping screws. A strip of plasterboard is placed at the bottom of the profile along the entire length, fixing it pointwise with a solution of alabaster. A cable is also attached to the plaster over the strip, after which the entire volume of the profile is filled with plaster. The completed groove is sealed to the full depth with a special putty, after which the channel is painted to match the main background.

The requirements for ensuring the fire safety of houses made of SIP panels are especially high, since these structures are flammable.

The SIP panel is a "pie" of two oriented strand boards with a layer of insulation between them, in which the manufacturers arrange internal channels for the installation of hidden wiring.

According to SP 31-105-2002, hidden wiring in this case can be installed through standard channels - without additional protection with pipes, but using NYM cable. However, PUE prescribes to arrange electrical wiring in a wooden house only through metal pipes.

There are two ways to resolve this contradiction, but both are costly and time consuming:

according to the PUE, mount hidden wiring in metal pipes along the walls and ceiling, and then lath them on them and sheathe them with plasterboard (the method also "steals" the dimensions of the premises);
sequentially mount 3 layers of gypsum plasterboard on the walls - the first as a gypsum protective base, in the second, after installation, make strobes for wiring, cover the second with a third continuous sheet.

A sensible alternative to these expensive solutions in houses made of SIP panels is the installation of exposed wiring.

Advantages of hidden wiring

No need for camouflage or decorative design of electrical wiring elements.
Minimum chance of cable damage.
Ease of line replacement - by pulling a new cable through the old pipe.
High electrical and fire safety with correct installation.
The hidden power supply system does not interfere with the finishing work.

Disadvantages of hidden wiring

The complexity of the execution of both the main power supply system and additional hidden branches.
High prices for installation.
Additional costs for pipes.
Impossibility of visual control of the technical condition of the wiring.

Installation of wiring in steel pipes does not eliminate the need to correctly calculate the cross-section of conductors, grounding devices and the use of an RCD, but is just mandatory requirement with hidden cabling.

Open wiring in a wooden house

Open wiring in wooden houses is used more often - because of its simplicity and lower cost.

The essence of the method is explained in clause 2.1.4 PUE-6 and consists in the open placement of all electrical wiring elements on the surfaces of walls, ceilings, farms and others building structures.

PUE-6 2.1.4 Wiring are divided into the following types:

1. Open wiring- laid on the surface of walls, ceilings, on farms and other building elements of buildings and structures, on supports, etc.

With open wiring, the following methods of laying wires and cables are used: directly on the surface of walls, ceilings, etc., on strings, cables, rollers, insulators, in pipes, boxes, flexible metal sleeves, on trays, in electrical baseboards and platbands, free suspension, etc.

With this technology, the installation of cables does not slow down the construction, since it is carried out after the construction of a log house. In addition, with open wiring, external switches, sockets and boxes are used, which eliminates the need for mounting jacks in the logs.

For outlets and switches for outdoor use, when installing them on wooden walls, additional special overhead socket outlets are required.

Laying cables and wires of open wiring is performed in the following ways:

conventional installation (cables with double or triple insulation) directly on the surfaces of building structures - using various types of brackets;
laying in protective corrugated pipes;
placement in cable channels;
on ceramic rollers or insulators.

The listed methods of arranging open wiring are applicable not only to houses made of logs and beams. Wooden frame buildings and cottages made of SIP panels, despite the structural differences, can also be equipped with open wiring according to the same rules, since the main material for the manufacture of their structures is wood.

Open wiring with staples

Wire brackets are cheap and easy to install, but have little aesthetic wiring.

When laying on wooden surface a steel strip, galvanized or painted, should be installed under the cable along its entire length, protruding from under it on both sides by at least 10 mm. The thickness of the strip should not be less than 0.8 mm; it is fixed to the wall with self-tapping screws in increments of 0.8-1.0 m.

To fix the cable on the strip, holes for the nails of the staples are pre-drilled in it - in increments of 30-50 cm.

If the cable does not have a grounding conductor, the strip must be grounded. It is tempting to use asbestos tape instead of steel, but this material is carcinogenic.

Open wiring device in protective corrugated pipes

Pipes used to protect exposed electrical wiring are made of polymers (PVC, PE, PP), steel (tinned, galvanized or stainless) and PVC-sheathed metal.

Protective polymer tubes intended for use in wooden houses must necessarily have a fire safety certificate and mark "ng" - not supporting combustion.

When choosing plastic corrugated channels, you can pre-orient yourself by their color: the white tube burns only when supported by the flame and goes out when it stops, the gray sleeve burns on its own after arson.

Black corrugations should also not support combustion, but they are used for outdoor wiring that is exposed to ultraviolet radiation.

A corrugated steel tube is a twisted strip that is not inferior in flexibility to a polymer cover, but more resistant to mechanical stress (compression, tension). Accordingly, the durability of steel corrugations is declared by manufacturers for several decades, and their price is several times higher than polymeric ones.

A wide range of pipe diameters (from 6 to 100 mm) allows you to choose protection for cables of any cross-section, including for placing several wires in one channel.

The diameter of the corrugated channel must be twice the sum of the diameters of the cables placed in it.

A "conductor" is preliminarily pulled through the corrugation to tighten the cable, to the end of which the conductor is attached. Instead, you can put a handle cap on the end of the cable, insert it into the sheath, and easily push the conductor through the entire length of the protection.

Fixation of metal corrugated tubes to the base is carried out using steel brackets with one or two legs, polymer covers are fixed with nylon ties and clamps. The fixing step is maintained within 30 cm. The arrangement of the channels on the base is performed so that the tubes do not cross each other and do not have twists.

The device for the passage of external wiring through inner wall is performed using a sleeve - a piece of steel pipe protruding from both sides by 1 cm. To prevent damage to the cable by sharp edges of the cuts, protective tips are put on the ends of the sleeve.

It should be borne in mind that a newly erected wooden house with a wall height of 3 m will shrink during the first year, depending on the material of the frame:

log (regular / rounded) - up to 10 cm / 8-10 cm;
timber (natural humidity / chamber drying) - up to 6 cm / 2.5 cm;
glued timber - up to 2 cm.

Therefore, the installation of open wiring must be carried out taking into account the amount of shrinkage, evenly distributing the technological slack of cables and channels between the spans.

Disadvantages of open wiring in corrugated channels:

the difficulty of cleaning corrugated walls from dust accumulating in the folds;
the inevitability of the sagging of the channels on the spans;
the complexity of replacing the wiring section without dismantling the protective channel.

Open electrical wiring through cable channels

Cable duct is a protective structure made of aluminum, galvanized steel or non-flammable plastic, consisting of a U-shaped profile for placing wires in it, an easily removable cover to it and connecting (transitional) elements. At the place of installation, cable channels are:

wall (parapet) - are made of strict and decorative performance;
floor - differ from parapet in greater strength and streamlined section;
skirting boards - available in various sections, including those imitating skirting boards, with an existing groove for placing the cable.

According to the markings made, the box is attached to the wall, cables are laid in it, after which the channel (groove in the plinth) is closed with a lid.

In boxes, wires and cables can be laid in multi-layer with an ordered and arbitrary (loose) mutual arrangement. The sum of the cross-sections of wires and cables, calculated according to their outer diameters, including insulation and outer sheaths, should not exceed: for blind boxes 35% of the cross-section of the box in the light; for boxes with openable lids 40%.

Advantages of cable channels:

ease of installation;
availability of cables for periodic monitoring;
ease of replacement of the wiring section;
aesthetics;
affordable price.

Flaws:

a certain volumetric structure;
low strength of wall-mounted products.

Open wiring on ceramic rollers or insulators

In wooden houses, this method of installing electrical wiring is popular, since, if the PUE standards are met, it also visually harmonizes with the base material - wood.

The technical execution of installation on insulators is not difficult and is possible with your own hands, since with correct calculations of the parameters of the power supply system, it only requires compliance with the wiring diagram. However, the price of modern semi-antique components is quite high. At the same time, it is also necessary to purchase fireproof socket-outlets for sockets, switches and boxes.

Basic installation rules:

insulators of horizontal lines are placed in increments of no more than 45 cm, vertical - up to 50 cm;
with the device for turning the cable at a right angle, two insulators are installed - to form a smooth bend of the conductors;
the distance from the edge of the outlet, switch or junction box to the wall of the nearest insulator should be 4 cm;
after removing the fabric braid from the wire, it is tightened with a nylon clamp - to prevent further unraveling of the thread weaving;
the passage of wires through the walls is made on porcelain bushings.

The aesthetics of the electrical wiring for insulators is high, but - on condition of a simple internal power supply system. And the numerous twisted lines of wires on the walls are far from attractive, not to mention the difficulty of repairing such bases.

Approximate prices for electrical work in Moscow and the Moscow region

Type of work	Cost, rub.)
Installation of a socket in a wooden base	300
Installation of one electric point (for hidden wiring)	250
Installation of one electrical point from external wiring	200
Replacing the old electric point	250
Junction box installation	250
Preparing a place for a junction box	250
Installing a socket under the telephone	250
Installing a socket for a TV cable	250
Installing a computer network socket	300

But even taking into account the high cost of services, in the absence of experience in performing electrical installation works it is better to entrust the wiring device to professionals, since the price of even a minor mistake can be very high.

Conclusion

Installation of an internal power supply system in a wooden house is a complex of works, the safety of many people depends on the correct execution of each of them. The cost of wiring installation by third-party contractors also takes into account the factor of the contractor's responsibility for the result.

In spite of undoubted merits wooden houses, they have one significant drawback inherent in the materials from which they are made, namely low resistance to fire. In such buildings, a fire can occur not only due to an error in the operation of heating equipment, but also due to an illiterately mounted hidden wiring laid in violation of the requirements of the PUE. Wires that are openly laid in cavities or along the surfaces of wood walls and placed close to flammable substances are considered especially dangerous (see the figure below).

In case of neglect of the requirements of the PUE, the laying of electrical wiring in a log house can lead to serious consequences, which can only be prevented by special protective measures.

Features of the arrangement of wiring

Open mounting method

When laying electrical wiring in a house from a rounded log, for example, it is very important to take care in advance about compliance with the relevant requirements regarding its organization and placement in internal spaces.

Important! The provisions of building standards (simpler than GOST) strictly prohibit the open laying of cables over any log coverings, even if it is placed in plastic cable ducts, ducts or corrugations.

If the wires are damaged and a short circuit occurs, fire is possible plastic materials, which is explained by many factors, which cannot be taken into account in advance. These include:

Increased dust content of the internal cavities of protective boxes and channels used when arranging open wiring;
Large temperature drops, often observed in normal living conditions in a private house;
Significant deformations of the logs, possible during the shrinkage of the log house and capable of destroying the insulation of the wires;
Instability of the supply voltage, especially noticeable in rural areas.

We add to this the possibility of using it when decorating walls in houses where open wiring, flammable and combustible materials.

Concealed gasket

According to clause 7.1. PUE, hidden wiring in wooden houses should not be mounted in internal cavities of structures, in addition, it is prohibited to lay it in corrugated pipes and plastic boxes. This is explained by the fact that in the event of high temperatures, neither one nor the other will be able to protect the insulation of electrical wires from destruction.

Additional Information. The use of plastic shelters is also dangerous due to possible damage by rodents and the accumulation of fine and combustible dust.

The only acceptable way of laying hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house is to place it in metal pipes laid on top of the walls (as shown in the figure below).

In this case, the main requirement for power supply systems in suburban conditions is fulfilled - the practical impossibility of exposure to such destructive factors as mechanical deformation and the intervention of rodents. The risk of exposure to high temperatures when laying in metal pipes for wood is also significantly reduced.

The main indicator by which the reliability of protection is assessed in this case is the ability of the pipe walls to withstand a short circuit (SC) without any damage for a time interval sufficient for the extinction of the electric arc.

Materials used

Channels for laying

Hidden electrical wiring in a log house is installed in pre-prepared channels made of refractory materials that can localize any fire in internal spaces. At the same time, its aesthetics and attractiveness, as well as the cost of the installation work itself and the quality of materials, attention is paid to the residual principle.

Important! In this case, the principle of the safety of wiring is put forward in the first place, and only then attention is paid to decorative features and specifications systems.

Taking these conditions into account, a material is selected that is suitable for arranging wire lines laid along the wooden walls of a building in metal casings (boxes) or in pipes of the same structure.

The most suitable, from the point of view of the protection of wires hidden in free niches and voids and laid on wooden structures, are the following materials:

Standard steel casings (boxes) and metal purlins from pipes;
Copper-based tubular products;
Flame-retardant installation boxes (casings) and corrugated pipes PVC materials with concrete or alabaster plugs installed at their ends.

The thickness of the safety plugs (gaskets) is selected in accordance with GOST and must meet the requirements of the PUE concerning the security of the wiring.

The advantages of copper pipes include the ease of forming a bend of the required radius (without the need to use special devices and tools). This is especially important in cases where the laying of a branched network of electrical wires with many branches is organized.

When using steel pipes, certain difficulties may arise in terms of installation and labor costs for molding, but their cost, in comparison with copper analogs, will be significantly lower.

Note! Sharpened edges of pipe blanks and boxes can damage the insulation of the wires and lead to undesirable consequences. That is why, when preparing the channels, you need to carefully monitor the condition of the dangerous edges and cut the original blanks only with a special cutting tool.

Wire selection

At this stage of work, it is necessary to decide on the brand of the installation wire suitable for direct laying in steel boxes or pipes. According to the requirements of GOST and the standards stipulated in the PUE, the use of the following types of cable products is considered optimal for wooden buildings:

Wire VVGng (A) or its variety under the name VVGng-P (A);
Two more types of cable products related to the same series - VVGngLS and VVGng-PLS;
Modern wires from a foreign manufacturer NYM.

The listed multi-core (up to five cores) wires marked VVGng have reliable double insulation. In accordance with the rules of PUE, one of the insulating layers (inner) is made on the basis of PVC and has its own color for each core separately.

Additional Information. Generally accepted color standards make wiring much easier, especially when connecting wires to junction boxes, terminals lighting fixtures and sockets (see photo below).

Outside, the VVGng cable has a general insulating coating made of a flexible composite - plastic, which ensures the possibility of its operation in the temperature range from plus 50 to minus 50 ° С.

The characteristics of products under the names VVGng LS, VVGng-P LS almost do not differ from those already considered, except that the insulation of these wires does not emit substances harmful to human health when heated. The cable called NYM is manufactured in accordance with GOST 22483 and has three insulating coatings.

During its production, each of the individual cores is first insulated individually, after which their overall assembly is placed in a sheath of composite material Finally, all this is protected by a non-flammable PVC coating.

Installation procedure

Preparatory operations

Before starting the installation of electrical wiring on your own, you should carry out a number of preparatory operations, namely:

Free the walls from all unnecessary objects and things;
Outline the route of the gasket and the installation locations of the junction boxes;
Make a marking of the points of installation of sockets, switches and lighting fixtures.

Additional Information. Regardless of the method of laying metal pipes, installation products (sockets, boxes and switches) are either recessed into the thickness of the wall or mounted on special sockets.

WITH appearance of these products can be found in the figure below.

The marking of the future route for electrical wiring must be carried out in strict accordance with the requirements of the PUE. The latter prescribe that when laying wires, make as little as possible changes in its direction.

In cases where the design features of the walls do not allow for a continuous laying line, additional junction boxes must be installed at certain points.

Installation requirements

Before you make the wiring yourself, in accordance with the current regulations, first of all, you need to decide on the installation locations of the junction boxes. In addition, the PUE stipulates the following important points of the upcoming work:

When installing boxes, it is not allowed to cover them with any elements. decorative finishing walls that significantly impede access to them when repair or maintenance is required;
When pipes are buried in the body of the wood (in accordance with the requirements state standards) should not violate the strength indicators of walls and other structural elements buildings;
The cross-sections of pipes (boxes) used for installation and the thickness of their walls must correspond to the characteristics of the selected cable;
In a situation where a decision is made to hide the cable in a pipe or box, you will need to make sure that it does not occupy more than 40% of the volume of their internal space and fits easily along the entire length of the wiring;
When placing several cables in this space, the volume occupied by them should also not exceed 40 percent;
Before laying any cable, it is recommended to check the insulation resistance again.

Taking this indicator into account is necessary for complete confidence in the compliance of its characteristics with the requirements of GOST (since during storage, transportation and preparation for laying, the possibility of damage to the insulation is not excluded).

Placement of installation products

In the case when it was decided not to use special socket boxes during installation, but a hidden wiring socket is used, sockets with a diameter slightly larger than that of the prepared product are drilled in the installation sites.

Note! For these purposes, it is most convenient to use an electric drill with a special attachment called a "crown" (see photo below).

In the sockets drilled in this way, metal boxes are first inserted, which serve to place the installation products themselves in them. When installing them, it is necessary to comply with the requirements of the standards that prescribe the mandatory observance of building technologies. They relate to the production of work on the connection of metal products into a single system, which requires a welding unit. Combining these elements of the system into a single whole will subsequently make it possible to organize reliable grounding of the electrical conductive network.

In the presence of continuity of the metal connection, such protection is displayed on an electrical panel, from the central grounding bus of which it can be connected to a grounding device prepared next to the house. The external appearance of the charger can be found in the figure below.

When operating the remote grounding loop, it will be necessary to carefully monitor the condition of all elements included in the structure, preventing corrosion of electrically conductive buses and conductors.

Installation of sockets and switches

The above description of the procedure for organizing installation work refers to the case when the owner of a private wooden house has his own welding machine. However, in the conditions of a suburban economy, not all users have a device that allows you to connect pipes and mounting boxes by welding method.

In the absence of a special unit, the following methods of arranging a reliable connection of all metal parts of the system are allowed:

In the case when the connection to two-socket sockets and separate 2-contact switches is carried out through copper pipes, their open edges, which are joined with the installation boxes, must be carefully flared;
When using steel pipe products, for their reliable fixation in metal walls, instead of welding, a nut or bolt connection can be used (photo below);

It can be seen from the figure that threads are cut on the pipes, after which the bodies of the installation or junction boxes are screwed onto them, which are subsequently fixed in a given position.

To avoid possible deformations and corrosion damage, the place of their joint is securely fixed with a nut of the appropriate size, and then lubricated with a protective compound.

Installation boxes (they are also called "technological"), as well as all other installation products, according to the provisions of the PUE, in terms of their protection from external destructive influences must comply with the IP-54 class. This class for equipment of electrical installations guarantees reliable protection all installation products from the penetration of moisture and dust into their internal spaces.

Testing and cable laying

At the end of the installation work related to the installation and fixation of pipes and boxes on the walls, it will be necessary to test the system for compliance with the requirements of the PUE on current spreading resistance. The need for this is due to the fact that all metal parts of the wiring must be connected to the ground loop, together with which they form an emergency current drain circuit into the ground.

And only after the compliance of this value with the requirements of the PUE has been practically confirmed (no more than 30 ohms), it will be possible to start laying the cable of the selected type. When laying it, it is necessary to take into account the following recommendations of specialists:

The cable sections laid in the spans between the boxes should be cut with a small margin, which ensures the possibility of their connection to wiring products;
When arranging the electrical network in modern buildings, during the construction of which a log or timber was used, it is desirable to use cable products with three or five cores;
One of these cores (in yellow-green insulation) will be used to connect to the re-grounding system, and all the rest will be used for their intended purpose.

The appearance of such a cable is shown in the figure below.

The remaining unused cores of the connecting wire may be required to organize a three-phase power supply line to 380 Volt consumers (professional electricians recommend taking this perspective into account).

In the final part of the review, we will touch on the issue of organizing a separate branch of the electrical wiring intended for connecting three-phase consumers. In accordance with the requirements of the PUE, in this case, the same wires must be used for laying, but with a slightly larger section of the phase and zero conductors, designed for a specific load of 380 volts.

Video

Do-it-yourself wiring in a wooden house is assembled to perform the full functionality of the system. The installation of wiring in wooden structures must ensure the safety of the structure from fire. Do-it-yourself installation of electrical wiring in a wooden house is quite permissible, but you should carefully familiarize yourself with the standards and norms of this process... Each owner of a wooden building wants to create and provide comfortable and favorable living conditions for household members.

Modern installation of electrical wiring in a wooden house can be broken down into the following main stages:

Development of design documentation with an appendix on the calculation of the power required for electrical equipment;
Providing the necessary materials for installation (cables, sockets, electrical devices, sockets, lamps, distribution box, etc.);
Entering machines, an electric meter and switchboard;
Laying and routing of cables and wires at points of localization of electricity;
Installation of additional devices (sockets, switches, lamps, etc.);
Provision of grounding and protective shutdown;
System connection;
Launching and testing the wiring.

Wiring in wooden houses must exclude any fire. Cable wires and other elements must have the following characteristics:

cable wires must be treated and insulated with fireproof means;
for outdoor installation, aluminum or thermal pipes are used;
cables with copper conductors and the required cross-section are used to withstand the power load;
furrows (grooves) for laying cables are treated with refractory substances (fukam, freezol).

Details of the development of a diagram of electrical work in a wooden house

Detailed power calculation electrical equipment is the key to a well-designed project. Such a project is based on the following points:

drawing up a drawing of a house indicating the points of lighting devices, sockets and electrical equipment (electric stoves, ventilation systems, etc.);
location of localization places for electrical equipment, determined taking into account power consumption;
creating blocks to provide lighting. In small houses, one block is enough;
creation of a separate block to control street lighting. It is recommended to mount street lighting on a separate machine, as this provides the ability to de-energize the house during the absence of the owners of the house;
household appliances (electric boilers, water heaters, electric stoves) that require a lot of electricity are connected through a special machine. When installing these devices, it is necessary to provide for the use of special cables, which are laid separately;
to calculate the power, you need to write out all the devices used, after which they select the machines for turning off.

Additional materials used in electrical work

Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in a wooden house should ensure a continuous process; you need to stock up on tools and equipment. In these works, pliers, screwdrivers, a hammer, a chisel, a screwdriver, a knife for electrical work are used.

There are two types: metal and plastic. For wooden buildings, experts recommend installing metal shields inside the house. Most often, the following types of cables are placed in the shield:

to provide lighting devices with current;
for sockets;
for electric stoves;
for meters that control electricity consumption;
for RCDs.

Electrical shops sell switchboards for 12 pieces of electrical equipment. For houses of standard dimensions with the usual arrangement of electrical wiring elements, shields for 9 places are used.

In addition, for the installation of electrical wiring, you must prepare:

electric wires of a certain section. In wooden houses, a three-core VVG cable with a cross section of 2.5 mm is used;
sockets, switches, the number of these devices is calculated according to the scheme. Basically, when choosing, they pay attention to quality and combination with interior colors. Sockets and switches equipped with brass and bronze contacts are used;
cables and skirting boards with grooves;
junction boxes, insulating clamps and tape;
electric meter, today there are two types of meters: one- and two-tariff. At current electricity prices, it is more rational to use a two-tariff meter, since it keeps track of the tariff depending on the time of day;
self-tapping screws, aluminum tape, fasteners - clips, clothespins, clamps.

The above list should be collected before starting the workflow.

Specificity of selection of cables and electrical appliances

The main specificity of the choice of cables is the cross-section of the wires and their power. First, you need to clearly define the groups of electrical equipment and the voltage of electricity required for the full operation of the system.

To install electrics in wooden houses, VVG marked copper cables are used. Cables of this type are more affordable at a price. NYM cable is more expensive, but has a number of advantages - reliable insulation, ease of use and safety. Aluminum cables can also be used, but they are not as reliable as their structure is more brittle and prone to kinking.

A three-core cable with a grounding effect is connected to the outlets. When using electrical household appliances grounding is required.

According to the Rules for Electrical Installations, when installing lighting devices, grounding is a mandatory attribute.

Electrical wiring in a wooden house is carried out in two types:

outdoor, characterized by laying through the use of cable channels;
hidden laying of wires is carried out in cases where plastering of the wall surface is provided.

Laying of wires inside the walls is carried out using pipes or metal sleeves to provide insulation and protection against mechanical damage to the integrity.

Electrical appliances (sockets and switches) used in wooden houses must comply with the following parameters:

must match the voltage;
by type of installation - indoor or outdoor.

The number of sockets and switches is determined using the prepared project. At the discretion of the owner, it is allowed to install joint switches, for example, in the bathroom and toilet, corridor and storage room.

Installation process of the introductory machine

For the right choice of the input cable, it is necessary to calculate the entire power consumption in the house. During repair work, if you decide to increase the rated performance of the switches, do not forget about replacing the lead-in cable. It is necessary to select the input cable for the total power of the devices in the house, because the wrong section will not provide sufficient functionality of the electrical wiring.

The choice of the machine should be started with special care: if the machine is working for wear and tear, then often short circuits and overvoltages occur. If a three-phase network is used in the house, then the use of a three-pole circuit breaker... Accordingly, with a single-phase electricity network, a single-pole or two-pole switch with a zero phase input is used.

For a single-phase network, the machines must have the following properties:

it is necessary to calculate the optimal voltage in the trip unit of the machine. A single-phase electrical network assumes the use of circuit breakers with 25-ampere amperage;
in houses made of wood, switches of category C are often used, which have a certain current ratio;
the switch at the input is mounted after the installation of the electricity meter, it is needed to ensure the correct calculation for the consumed electricity;
automatic machines, RCDs, electric meters - all these devices are elements of the switchboard. The panel consists of a housing, and the installation of the necessary elements is carried out using a DIN-rail.

For the correct calculation of the power indicators of the voltage network, specially developed formulas are used.

Cable routing, installation of sockets and switches

According to the diagram. To do this, they determine the routes in nature, that is, on the surface of the wall of the house, after which junction boxes are mounted and the points of installation of sockets, lamps and switches are outlined. The cables used must be sized appropriately to ensure full use of the system.

When laying cable wires in metal boxes or pipes, interior wall decoration is required. For hidden wiring application corrugated pipes is prohibited, as it may cause a fire.

Laying cable wires in a pipe includes the following steps:

preparation of canals (grooves). In the places where the wires are connected, external junction boxes are installed to ensure open access;
when laying the cable between rooms, holes are made in the walls using metal sleeves with plugs. The metal sleeves drown out the fire, ensuring the circuit is closed.

When laying the cable wire externally in pipes, the wires must not touch tightly to the surface of the pipes. Their filling should be half. Electricians recommend using copper pipes because such products are more flexible, which is important when laying. Cut wires should be processed and stripped. The pipes are installed on the wall surface using clamps.

Grounding and RCD

Installation of grounding in wooden houses is mandatory for all the requirements and standards for the operation of household electrical appliances.

When grounding, perform the following actions:

Dig a depression (40 centimeters) in the form of an equilateral triangle with sides 1 meter long;
In the corners of the groove they dig in hardware or corners, then they are fastened to each other using a welding machine;
A grounding conductor is passed through the pin hole, and then it is fixed with a nut;
All grounding elements of the cables are connected to the bus, which has a greenish color of the wires.

Installing an RCD in a private house plays the role of protection against damage electric shock in cases of leakage.

Starting and checking the operation of the wiring

When all electrical appliances are connected and the installation is complete, it is necessary to measure the resistance of the electrical wiring in a wooden house. This process is necessary to ensure that the insulation is not damaged.

Resistance measurements are carried out regularly, with constancy about once every three years. Resistance measurements will help to identify imperfections and will save the structure from short circuits leading to a fire.

After completing the installation of the electrical wiring, it is necessary independently for a competent examination of the entire complex of installation work. Electricians measure the insulation resistance and the grounding conductor.

After the work, the specialists issue a protocol that confirms the functionality of the entire system. This document must be presented when sealing the electric meter. Most often, for clarity and ease of repair, a diagram is glued to the electrical panel indicating the location of the main machines.

Conclusion

Do-it-yourself wiring in a wooden house should be done taking into account all the rules. A well-executed installation of high-quality wiring will ensure a long service life. In order to competently fulfill the entire volume electrical work, read the diagram and correctly calculate the amount of materials and the length of the cable.

If you are not sure that you can cope with the work on your own, invite specialists, because your safety and the safety of property depend on the competent installation and connection of the electrical network in your house.

Private buildings made of timber and logs are distinguished by their visual appeal, comfort of living and environmental friendliness. But they are classified as buildings with an increased fire hazard, which is due to the flammability of wood. Therefore, the wiring in a wooden house is carried out taking into account special requirements. They are set out in the heading Electrical equipment of the Building Code (SNiP) and the Rules for the device electrical installations(PUE).

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Installation requirements and general work plan

If you strictly adhere to the provisions of the PUE and SNiP, you can actually equip a reliable and safe power supply system for a wooden house with your own hands. First, you need to familiarize yourself with the key requirements of these rules and regulations:

A competent scrupulous calculation of the cable cross-section is required. A non-combustible material is used to isolate them.
It is advisable to lay open electrical wiring.
Concealed routing is not recommended for timber structures. If you have to use it, you should work with cables in a metal pipe or in another sheath.
A protection device (RCD) and a circuit breaker are mounted and connected in the switchboard.

Electrical wiring is divided into external and internal. The first is laid on the street and supplied to the home network through underground wells and canals or by air (overhang).

External cables are usually made of wires with aluminum conductors, and inside the dwelling, only copper products are allowed. Their connection is carried out in a special adapter called a sleeve. It goes from the electricity meter on the outer wall of the building to the switchboard.

Wiring in a wooden house is laid in stages. Experienced electricians advise adhering to the following sequence of work:

The total capacity of the equipment that is planned to be installed in the dwelling is calculated.
A power supply project is being prepared.
The selection and purchase of switches, sockets, wires, technical devices is carried out.
Power is entered into the building, the circuit breaker, the electric meter and the switchboard (PD) are connected.
The cable runs through the house.
Lighting devices, sockets, switches are mounted.

Last of all, the RCD is connected and the grounding system is equipped. After that, the hand-made wiring is tested for operability and operational safety.

The nuances of drawing up a project for the energy supply of a wooden house

Work should begin with obtaining technical specifications from the local office of the electricity supplier. Then they begin to calculate the total power of household appliances, lighting and other devices. This operation is easy to do with your own hands using the table below.

After the calculations, an electrical wiring diagram is created. The procedure is simple:

A technical plan of the house is being drawn up. It marks the installation points of electrical appliances, lamps, switches, sockets, and other equipment.
To connect the equipment is selected suitable type cable.
The wiring diagram indicates the locations where the junction boxes will be delivered. One such device is usually used for two adjacent (adjacent) rooms in the house.
The plan indicates the power of each electrical appliance (taking into account the starting force for installations with its own engine).
Equipment that consumes a lot of energy (stoves, heating boilers, water heaters) are combined into one group. A separate machine is used to connect them.
Less powerful appliances (chandeliers, floor lamps, etc.) are collected in another group.

The diagram shows the distances from the line along which the cable is laid to all window and door openings and the distance from the electrical points from the ceiling and floor surfaces. This is done so that later, if repairs are needed in the house, the likelihood of damage to the wiring is minimal.

In the design process, you should adhere to several important recommendations.Electrical experts advise working according to the following standards:

The cable is laid at the top or bottom of the wall with an indent of 0.2 m from the ceiling or floor.
Installation switchboard is performed in the hallway of the house at a height of 150–170 cm so that children cannot reach it.
Internal wiring turns are 90 °.
For reasons of aesthetics and ease of use, all switches are mounted at the same height (0.8–1.5 m). They are usually fixed on the side where the handle of the doors leading to the room is located.

Sockets are installed at any height (PUE and SNiP do not specify this point). But the places of their installation should be thought out as competently as possible, taking into account the layout of large household appliances and furniture. Then, after the repair, you will not have to use extension cords to connect the electrical equipment.

Selection of wires, sockets, switches - the table will help

The electrical network in a wooden house works without accidents and failures with a competent determination of the cross-section of cables with the help of which lighting, special equipment and household appliances are connected. For many home craftsmen, this part of the work is difficult. Cope with them allows the table for the selection of the diameter of copper conductors for devices operating under certain loads.

Section, mm	Voltage, V
	380		220
	power, kWt	Current, A	power, kWt	Current, A
120	171,6	260	66,0	300
95	145,2	220	57,2	260
70	118,8	180	47,3	215
50	95,7	145	38,5	175
35	75,9	115	29,7	135
25	59,4	90	25,3	115
16	49,5	75	18,7	85
10	33,0	50	15,4	70
6	26,4	40	10,1	46
4	19,8	30	8,3	38
2,5	16,5	25	5,9	27
1,5	10,5	16	4,1	19

All electrical appliances have a technical passport or instructions for use. They indicate the loads that they consume. Based on this information, it is not difficult to select the required cables.

The safest wiring in a wooden house is obtained with NYM copper products. They are easy to install and handle, have good durability, and are equipped with additional insulation. Their only drawback is their high cost.

A more affordable cable is VVGng. Its insulation is carried out with PVC (polyvinyl chloride) plastic compound, which does not support combustion.

Switches and sockets are selected according to the type of wiring (open or hidden), the value (calculated) current, the possibility of their connection on a single-frame block. Cables with three cores and mandatory grounding are connected to these network elements. The latter ensures almost one hundred percent safety in the operation of household appliances.

Lead-in wire and machine - how to choose the right one?

To determine the cross-section of the cable leading to the house, you need to calculate the total power (total rated load) of all available electrical devices and equipment. This is especially important if the wiring in a wooden house is being renewed. That is, the automatic switches and internal wiring are completely replaced.

If it is necessary to install a new lead-in cable on a log house or a residential building made of logs, contact the power supply organization. Its replacement is carried out before the installation and sealing of the electricity meter.

If the building network is designed for 380 V, a single-pole automatic device is installed at the input. With a single-phase power supply (220 V), devices with 1 or two poles are used.

Experts advise choosing an automatic machine with a rating that, at maximum loads, does not turn off the current supply to the dwelling, but breaks the electrical circuit. Thus, it eliminates the risk of a short circuit.

It is easy to decide on the type, characteristics and rating of the input machine (VA) on your own. First, the power of all electrical equipment in the house is taken. According to the formula P / U * 0.8, the maximum current is calculated. Its value is multiplied by a special factor of 1.1 and the value is obtained at which the switch at the input is triggered (in most cases, a 25 A fuse is used).

A suitable type of VA is selected according to the short-circuit current (TKZ). The formula is used: I = 3260 * S (wire cross-section in millimeters) / L (cable length in meters).

The characteristic of the circuit breaker is determined by dividing the TKZ by the value of the rated current. For individual housing construction, it is recommended to use category C devices. They proved to be excellent when working in power grids with mixed load.

VA is mounted after the meter. These two devices are mounted in an electrical panel on a DIN rail along with RCDs and automatic devices for individual groups of equipment, after which they begin to lay cables around the house.

Hidden and open wiring - features

Outside, the cable, as noted earlier, is mounted in metal pipes, which are buried in the ground, or through the air. The first method is more expensive, but really reliable.

Before the internal wiring in the house, they outline the installation points for the switchboard and boxes, switches, sockets, lighting fixtures. The PB is fixed at the selected location. Then the following actions are performed:

An electricity meter is mounted in the switchboard housing.
A VA is placed on the DIN rail, to which the neutral and phase are connected.
The input of the input machine is connected to the terminals of the meter.
On the rail, switches and voltage relays are installed for RCDs and individual power groups.
All terminals of electrical equipment are connected with a wire with one core.

Proceed directly to the wiring - hidden or open. The first one is equipped in cases when it is planned to make the decoration of the walls in the dwelling as attractive and aesthetic as possible. It is ideal for newly built or overhauled log homes.

Hidden wiring involves placing cables in special non-combustible plastic or metal (aluminum, steel, copper) boxes. The latter fit between the vertical surface facing and its base.

Open-type electrical wiring is installed in long-used houses and when creating retro interiors in new buildings. It is done using:

Ceramic rollers that act as insulators. This method is optimal for dwellings with timber walls.
Plastic cable ducts, fixed on vertical bases. These mounting accessories are available in different colors, which makes it possible to pick them up for any type of cladding.
PVC staples. This technique is rarely used in homes because of its unattractiveness. It is more suitable for wiring in technical, utility and utility rooms.
Corrugated pipes filled with cables to a maximum of 40%.
Special skirting boards equipped with a gutter. The latter has special clamps for the wire.

Important! It is advisable to equip passages through walls from one room to another with fire-resistant metal sleeves. And already through them to stretch the cables. In this case, the likelihood of a fire due to faulty wiring is significantly reduced.

Popular ways to route cables internally

Open wiring is usually done using trunking. Step-by-step instructions for performing such an operation are given below:

Marking (according to the existing project) of the line of the network is being made.
The cover is removed from the cable channel.
Attach the box to the ceiling or wall. For this, self-tapping screws are used. Their installation is carried out with a step of 50 cm. Additional hardware is screwed in at the turns of the track.
Junction boxes are installed in the designated places.
The electrical wiring is placed in the cable channels, the latter are covered with a lid, the fasteners are latched on.

Important! A small amount of cable should be left at the points of installation of switches and sockets. It is required to connect the specified elements.

The wires in the junction boxes are connected to each other and to the terminals of sockets, circuit breakers, switches. This part of the installation work is described in detail in the next section.

With hidden wiring, the cable is often "hidden" in metal pipes. The work algorithm is simple:

They make grooves in the walls.
Install junction boxes (so that access to them after facing the vertical bases is free).
Pipes are being mounted. If necessary, they are pre-cut. The ends of the products are cleaned, all burrs are removed from them.
The pipes are fastened with clamps.

The wiring is routed through fixed metal channels. In distribution boxes, electrical conductors are twisted and insulated.

Briefly about the methods of connecting wires and the intricacies of the procedure

The operation is done by hand in one of three ways. A single internal wiring is created:

Twist.
Self-clamping Wago clamps.
Special caps.

The first technique is inexpensive and readily available. An insulator (4–5 cm) is removed from the ends of the cables. The wires are twisted together, soldered and wrapped with protective adhesive tape.

The Wago technology involves stripping 1 cm of insulation from the ends of the wires and connecting them using self-clamping terminals. The latter are chosen according to the cross-sections of the cables used.

The third method requires the purchase of special caps, inside which a conical spring is installed. The order of their use:

wires are stripped and twisted;
cover the junction with the described product.

The spring, when screwing on the cap, firmly grips the electrical cable. And the plastic shell acts as an insulator.

Nuance. The load capacity of the internal route to be laid depends on the number of wire connections. The more there are, the less reliable the wiring is.

Final stages of work - little things remained

PUE require that all household electrical equipment with a metal case (refrigerators and freezers, automatic washing machines, boilers, ovens) be grounded. This operation is easy to do on your own:

Three reinforcing bars with a cross section of 3 and a length of 300 cm are cut.
In the courtyard of the house, a triangular moat with a depth of 0.3 m with sides of 1 m is being dug.
The rods are installed in the ground at the corners of the trench, connected to each other by welding and steel blanks.
An eye (loop) is attached to one of the rods. It is made of 10 mm thick steel.

The lug is connected to the grounding conductor in the electrical panel. It has a yellow-green insulating layer.

The residual current device is installed in the panel after the meter. It eliminates the risk of electric shock to a person when the latter breaks down on the body of household appliances. The RCD is selected according to two indicators:

Rated current. Its value is taken an order of magnitude higher than the characteristics of the circuit breaker installed in the circuit.
Leakage current. For living quarters with normal humidity, devices with a response threshold of 30 mA are purchased, for bathrooms, toilets and kitchens - 10 mA.

After the installation of all elements, the wiring is checked for safety of use and operability by specialists from certified electrical centers and laboratories. They carry out comprehensive tests:

inspect the wiring for correct installation;
measure the resistance "zero-phase", grounding circuit and insulation;
check the operation of the RCD and automatic machines.

The test results are recorded in the protocol. It must be presented to the representatives of the power supply, who will come to seal the electricity meter.