Do you need a foundation for a self-supporting wall. Self-supporting walls: the difference between the structure and the load-bearing and non-load-bearing walls
Walls are structural elements of buildings that serve to separate a room from an external space (external walls) or one room from another ( interior walls).
By the nature of the work, the walls are divided into: load-bearing, self-supporting and hinged .
Load-bearing walls take the load from their own weight and other structures and transfer it to the foundations.
Self-supporting walls carry the load only from their own weight along their entire height and transfer it to the foundations.
Curtain walls walls are fences resting on each floor on other elements of the building (frame) and perceive only their own mass within one floor.
To the walls are presented the following requirements: they must have sufficient strength and stability, possess adequate heat and sound insulating properties, be fire resistant, durable and economical. Soundproofing requirements apply mainly to the walls of residential buildings.
Optimum thickness walls must be at least the limit determined by static and heat engineering calculations.
Since January 1997, Amendments to SNiP 11-3-79 "Construction Heat Engineering" entered into force: the required resistance to heat transfer for residential premises has been doubled, and since 2000 it has increased by 3.45 times. If you follow the letter of the law, then brick walls should be erected with a thickness of 1.5 meters, therefore it is advisable to use combined structures of external walls: the load-bearing part of the wall, minimum thickness, plus effective insulation and decorative trim.
By the type of material, the walls can be made of stone, wood, or combined (like "sandwich"). Stone walls by design and method of construction, they are subdivided into masonry walls, monolithic and large-panel. Combined walls - various panel-frame houses.
Masonry is a structure made of separate wall stones, the seams between which are filled masonry mortars... To create a solid monolithic system, the rows of masonry are made with a mismatch between the vertical seams, that is, with their bandaging.
Monolithic wall. The wall structure consists of reinforcement cage and concrete. To pour concrete, formwork must be set up. The formwork can be removable or non-removable.
Panel-frame at home. Panel houses usually manufactured in factories and assembled at the customer's site. Panel materials: insulation core (expanded polystyrene or mineral wool), “dressed” on both sides with LSU or OSB sheets.
Frame houses ... Such houses have many options (factory made or erected on site).
Bearing walls are erected in buildings with frameless and incomplete frames. They are made of bricks, small and large blocks. Carrying out both load-bearing and enclosing functions, such walls perceive the load from the roof, ceilings, wind forces and sometimes loads from handling equipment. Load-bearing walls are supported on foundations. Self-supporting walls carry their own mass within the entire height of the building and transfer it to the foundation beams. Wind loads acting on the walls are perceived by the building frame or half-timbered timber. The wall filling is connected to the frame with flexible or sliding anchors that do not prevent wall settlement. The height of self-supporting walls is limited depending on the strength of the material and the thickness of the wall, the pitch of the wall columns, the magnitude of the wind load, etc. Self-supporting walls are made of bricks, blocks or panels.
Non-bearing (curtain) walls perform mainly enclosing functions. Their mass is completely transferred to the columns of the frame and half-timbered frame, with the exception of the lower sill tier, which rests on the foundation beams. Columns do not perceive mass load-bearing walls through strapping beams, half-timbered beams or steel support tables.
Light curtain walls, not being a supporting structure, have one purpose - to protect the premises from atmospheric influences. Application effective insulation and thin sheet cladding allows, with a small mass of curtain walls, to ensure their high heat-shielding properties, and their manufacture without wet processes determines a satisfactory humidity regime of the premises from the first days of building operation.
Curtain walls made of frame panels two stories high were used in the building of the Institute of Scientific and Technical Information in Kiev. The frame of the panels, measuring 2.8X7.2 m, is made of extruded aluminum profiles, glazing is made of double-glazed windows. Blank sections of panels are faced with outside stemalite, with internal - particle board. Semi-rigid mineral wool slabs are used as insulation. The joints between the panels are filled mineral wool and covered with aluminum protective decorative elements.
The thickness of the walls with insulation made of foam glass, semi-rigid mineral wool slabs, phenolic-resole foam FRP-1 is approximately 100-120 mm, which allows to reduce the volume of the building (without changing the area of the premises) and, accordingly, the consumption of materials. All other things being equal, this helps to reduce the cost of 1 m2 of buildings.
In buildings erected in the Far North, light panels are mainly used, consisting of two outer aluminum sheets with a thickness of 0.8-1.5 mm, between which there is an insulation (polystyrene foam PSB, PSB-S phenolic FRP-1, Vilares-5 or polyurethane PPU-ES, PPU-308, density 35-80 kg / m 3); such panels in most cases have framing ribs. In the Far North, the use of lightweight panels sharply reduces their thickness - up to 150 mm, and hence the mass (for comparison: the thickness of lightweight concrete walls reaches 600 mm, brick - 770 mm)
Wall panels dimensions of 1.3x3.5 m and 1.3x4.5 m with claddings of aluminum sheet 1.5 mm thick, with framing ribs that take lateral loads, of bakelized plywood 10 mm thick and insulation made of polyurethane foam are used in single-storey residential buildings in the north.
I wrote this article in April. And I put it aside in the hope that I will pick up illustrations, and, perhaps, I will break it into small blocks - more suitable for the format of this LJ.
But already in January of next year - and when I will do this - I do not know.
Therefore, I post it entirely, without illustrations, and if someone masters it to the end - tell me about it - I will write you into the heroes :)
Walls:
The walls of buildings are load-bearing, self-supporting and carried.
What are the differences, how it works and how it manifests itself externally and in architectural aesthetics.
A load-bearing wall is a wall that supports the roof structure (or balconies, or any other load) - this wall that is structural element... Part of a working structure. Like a post or beam in a post-and-beam system.
A self-supporting wall is a wall that carries nothing extra - but has its own weight. That is, it carries its own weight, at least. The higher it becomes, the more weight, the more it is similar in properties to a carrier.
A bearing wall is a wall that rests not on what is below, but on what is on the side or above. That is, if it is quite simple, either a thing suspended on something, or nailed to a certain structure as a cladding. Such a wall has mainly a fencing function - almost unrelated to the structure.
Imagine a self-supporting wall made of brick or stone.
Ideally, stones and bricks lie flat in it, the load presses from top to bottom. The lower - the greater the load - it is normal if the wall begins to expand and strengthen to the bottom. Perhaps the wall will have a slope - like the walls of fortresses - from above - narrower.
If the wall is loaded and it is load-bearing (or a very large self-supporting one), this whole ideal picture will not work. Because a lot of additional loads will appear in the wall - which, although by design, should act strictly vertically - in fact - due to imperfect density, due to loads that have some lateral shifts, etc. - a lot of stresses will occur inside the wall. Of the obvious and understandable ones - to the edge of the wall, to the corner of the building, all sorts of lateral moments will accumulate and the corner will have the greatest load. Therefore, corners seem to be strengthened and thickened in even simple buildings. It is often necessary to remove excess load from window and doorways- to make the jumper easier. Sometimes during the construction process, a certain tension builds up, which must be removed.
Load-distributing arches, etc., appear in the wall. things.
This is the picture for all load-bearing and self-supporting walls. The corners are reinforced, the masonry is difficult so that there are bandages, the load accumulates towards the bottom and the wall thickens.
This is good for traditional materials- stone and brick. All modern blocks have the same picture (in fact, these are the same stones - just artificial). The same picture is near reinforced concrete (monolithic) walls. Only there, the internal stresses immediately go to the reinforcement and the strength is much higher than that of natural stone... But the principle is the same.
A little differently near a tree - because you can't put a distributing arch in it. But they do not build from wood and strongly high or heavily loaded walls. But more effort at an angle goes, structures that facilitate lintels arise - that is general principles persist.
There is an architectural - aesthetic - expression for load-bearing and self-supporting walls. As an order is the ideal expression of a post-and-beam structure in stone and wood - so for a wall there is architectural element- rust. Rust is an image of large masonry blocks in the wall. Sometimes laid out of stone, sometimes purely decorative - from plaster. Making a rustic - the architect tells us that the wall is load-bearing. Well, or at least self-supporting. The more powerful the rust, the more likely it is a load-bearing wall. To make a pronounced rusticum against a wall that is clearly self-supporting is rather strange. Can. But less justified. And rustic (even exaggeratedly decorative) on the carried panels is simply not an understanding of its essence and construction in general.
Remember we talked about whether the Colosseum warrant was decorative or not. (link)
So - in the Renaissance there is almost the same combination of two structural systems on the facade. On the one hand, there is a rusticated wall - that is, telling the viewer that it is carrying. On the other hand, there are pilasters that seem to show that there is a post-and-beam frame inside.
And the researchers talk about the contradiction of these systems. Or - that the order on such facades is purely decorative.
Firstly, for some reason, no one says that it can be a real karnas - and the filling with a wall between is self-supporting (well, they do not say - because it really is not so - at least in the Renaissance, although I think, if you dig around - in the 19th century, such mixed structures already existed - when the frame was connected to the wall)
Secondly - as with the Colosseum - these systems complement each other and intertwine.
How it happens in a real structure: in its most primitive form - A leveling beam is placed on the load-bearing wall, which distributes all further load evenly. On it - with a certain step, transverse beams are placed on which the floor is held. If there were no beams, the beams would press pointwise and the internal loads in the wall would be more varied.
But nevertheless - the beams do not press evenly on every cm of the wall.
Second - what we said - the corners have a lot of stress.
And third - if the building has transverse walls - and there are more than 2-3 windows on the facade - then at the points of their connection with the main wall, there is also a large horizontal load (and by the way, less vertical - if the transverse wall is also load-bearing, but it is usually self-supporting)
So the appearance on the facade of certain vertical elements - semi-columns, pilasters - seems to be from the post-beam system may well be justified. Of course - if they express internal layout buildings and repeat the internal walls - this is doubly justified. But often you have to cheat somewhere and add extra ones - for an even step or the beauty of the facade.
Nevertheless, it is impossible to call it purely decorative elements. They are tectonic.
Working in monolithic reinforced concrete, we can absorb all these loads with reinforcement. And make a perfectly smooth flat wall. Nevertheless, this flat wall will only be a decoration - not reflecting the inner work.
Perhaps, in order for a reinforced concrete wall to be a truly pronounced structure, its reinforcement should, as it were, "shine through" - like veins on a person's hands or read like a skeleton. Seeing Living being- we will not be able to draw his skeleton. But we can completely imagine the main supporting structure inside. Nevertheless - the principle of work reinforced concrete wall not much different from a stone (yes, stronger, yes - you can make more complex things, large protrusions and jumpers - but the principles are the same - the load acts from top to bottom)
So - at the beginning of the 20th century, structures appear that allow you to simply hang a wall on them. Anyone can make a wall. Glass. Lightweight foam, etc. Rolling walls appear.
I must say that in architecture, a load-bearing, self-supporting or supported structure is a very important criterion. They are often dramatically different, painted radically different colors- as black-and-white half-timbered or white-color classicism.
Therefore, if the wall is unbreakable, it is very important to show and emphasize (well, because we remember that tectonics is the main principle of architecture - and exceptions only confirm the rules)
That is, there are two options - to identify, aestheticize modern hinged structure... Or knowingly abandon the principle of tectonics - and create something completely different. What deconstructivists do. But it must be done a) masterfully b) explicitly. As a bright focus, theatrical performance. Or pure decorativeness - with a bright color. Ideally, an elegant joke. So far, in mass architecture, I do not see an application and a way for this. This is a separate conversation, of course ...
So - if the wall is unbearable - then it would be good to reveal and emphasize it. How can I do that?
1.reveal and show supporting frame making the wall almost invisible. For example glass. So Foster has a cucumber. Frame - Revealed. Glass is carried. By the way, and Koolhaas (despite the fact that he is a deconstructivist and in general in a Chinese skyscraper does not come from construction). Any buildings “just glass” do not meet this criterion, because the frame is not detected.
2. to develop a decorative expression of the fact that the wall does not rest on the bottom, but on the side (or suspended). It could be rivets. (or any other fasteners according to the principle - nails, screws, etc.) These can be some kind of clips around the perimeter - according to the principle of glasses in frames. Such options were made by Otto Wagner for cladding (by the way, this all can concern and simply decorative cladding walls) - this is not rustic - these are panels "nailed" to the wall or frame. In modern architecture, this option has not been developed at all.
3. Look for the aesthetics of the unbroken walls in the old unbroken walls. For example, in skins that were stretched over the frame of yurts, etc. dwellings ... To go by demonstrating that the wall is flexible and cannot hold without an internal supporting frame - that means it is there. Perhaps the time has not yet come for this - and not yet modern technology flexible fabric for walls. Especially as it provides for windows. Although I think it is quite possible. But this is a question for technologists ... this is partly expressed by Zaha Hadid - in her flexible walls.
Those who decide to engage in construction or redevelop an already erected building should know what a load-bearing wall is and how its destruction threatens. The purpose of the load-bearing wall is the ability to take on loads from other parts of the building, floors and roofs. In order not to face the danger of the destruction of the building, before starting work, you need to determine which walls are bearing and carry out all the planned activities without touching these structures.
What is the difference
The walls are the main structural part of the building, but not all of them are able to withstand the load coming from the floors and the roof. For this purpose, each building is equipped with load-bearing walls. Partitions help to divide the space in the built house, which are able to withstand only the load from their own weight. Such walls are called self-supporting. The purpose of each non-bearing wall is to act as a space delimiter, if necessary, simply select a separate room.
Simply put, load-bearing walls are structures on which something rests. In every building, load-bearing and non-load-bearing walls play important role, but if the carrier is reliable support, a high-quality frame of the building, it is not a load-bearing partition, which, if desired, can be demolished during redevelopment without causing damage to the building. All walls are subdivided into load-bearing, self-supporting and non-bearing. The name alone makes it clear which of them are being built in order to take on the main load.
Such a partition can be built from:
- bricks,
- aerated concrete.
As self-supporting walls in panel houses install monolithic slabs... Such curtain walls can be used to create an additional passage by cutting openings in them and installing doors.
To correctly recognize which walls are load-bearing, which means to successfully carry out redevelopment without disturbing building codes and rules, without risking creating a situation, the end result of which will be the destruction of the building. , which means that the distribution of the load will change, and this will lead to distortion of the building, collapse of the floor and cracking of the remaining capital structures.
They ensure the safety not only of the apartment in which renovation or redevelopment is planned. The safety of dwellings located on the lower floors depends on their quality and integrity. The main difference between load-bearing structures and self-supporting ones is. Knowing the difference is not enough, you need to be able to correctly determine which wall is the bearing.
It is necessary to know exactly which walls can be demolished during redevelopment, and which must remain intact, at what thickness it is permissible to make an opening in the wall, and when it is too dangerous to perform such work.
There are certain requirements that I place on load-bearing walls:
- Strength and stability.
- Compliance with all fire safety standards.
- High level of heat, hydro, sound insulation.
Another feature of the load-bearing wall, thanks to which such structures are distinguished, is the uniform distribution of the horizontal load exerted by the floor slabs. An important criterion strength, reliability and stability is the thickness of the load-bearing wall. This value is set for brick, monolithic and panel interior walls.
Strict adherence to established standards makes it easier to identify the load-bearing wall in any building or room.
Definition
Having learned what a load-bearing wall is, one can understand how important the construction of this structure is in strict accordance with all existing norms and rules. Such walls are a natural continuation of the building itself, the beginning of which is the foundation. To avoid great difficulties and troubles in the process of redevelopment, you need to know how to determine the load-bearing wall in the apartment. In most cases, it is enough to carefully study the technical documentation and determine the location of the load-bearing walls on the building plan. However, it happens that there is no plan and you have to independently establish the quality and purpose of the erected structures.
The peculiarity of the construction of panel buildings is that in monolithic house Reinforced concrete panels are used as a supporting structure. Their thickness ranges from 100 to 200 mm. Structures made of gypsum concrete panels act as interior partitions, and their thickness does not exceed 80-100 mm. Thus, by measuring the thickness of the wall, it is possible to recognize a load-bearing wall, which is strictly forbidden to demolish in such a building. Failure to comply with the established rules will lead to inevitable deflection and collapse of the floor.
One of the most important indicators is the thickness of the bearing walls in brick houses. To distinguish a load-bearing wall, you need to know its thickness, but it is better to have a building plan on which all bearing structures... Self-supporting walls in an apartment, as a rule, are much thinner than capital structures. The thickness of the walls that take up the load from their own weight varies from 5 cm to 400 mm. Such a partition can be erected from drywall, but more often it is a wall erected of brick (half-brick masonry).
An experienced craftsman will tell you how to find out the load-bearing wall or not in a brick house, but the size of the structure will also help to understand this. Its peculiarity lies in the fact that the thickness brick wall multiple this parameter brick, plus the thickness of the adhesion layer and finishing material... Thus, you can find out which wall is in front of the builders. The thickness of the partition does not exceed 380 mm, and this size is the minimum for a load-bearing wall. The greatest thickness of the load-bearing wall in a brick house is 640 mm. The peculiarity of this structure is that an opening can be made in such walls. This is justified by the ability to provide additional reinforcement to maintain uniform distribution horizontal load.
To distinguish which walls can be demolished, and which are strictly prohibited, their parameters will help:
- from 80 to 380 mm - interior partition, which can be demolished if necessary;
- from 380 to 510 mm - internal load-bearing wall, subject to demolition, subject to high-quality reinforcement;
- from 510 to 640 mm - external load-bearing wall.
Brick houses or were built according to a constructive plan, hallmark which is the presence of 3 longitudinal bearing walls (on the plan green color) and transverse walls, called stiffening diaphragms (highlighted in blue).
The owners of apartments with windows facing the front side of the house had the opportunity to build an extension or even make additional window... You can get more detailed answers to all existing questions by watching the video.
When starting to work on the redevelopment of housing, you need to carefully study the apartment plan, which indicates the dimensions and purpose of the walls, if there is no opportunity to familiarize yourself with the documentation, then you should not make important decisions without measuring the thickness of the walls.
one of the most widespread types of walls. The purpose of the load-bearing walls is to withstand the load from the floors and roofs, as well as to provide the necessary thermal insulation. For the construction of load-bearing walls, materials are used that have sufficient strength: natural stone, brick, cinder block, concrete blocks, monolithic concrete and others. However, the greater the strength of the material, the greater its density and, accordingly, the lower its resistance to heat transfer. Therefore, the thickness of load-bearing walls made of brick, natural stone or heavy concrete, sufficient for the strength and stability of the wall, is often insufficient to provide thermal insulation according to the latest thermal engineering standards. If earlier than thickness brickwork outer wall 51 cm for some climatic regions was considered sufficient, but now 77 cm of the thickness of the brickwork of the outer wall for the same areas is not always enough. Therefore, external load-bearing walls are increasingly made not of one material, but of at least two. In this case, the first material provides the necessary strength and stability, and the second - thermal insulation. In low-rise construction, external load-bearing walls can be made of less durable materials such as cinder block, lightweight, porous and cellular concrete.
Self-supporting walls
are made in frame buildings, often self-supporting walls are called enclosing structures. In frame buildings, the frame is calculated for the load from the floors, overlying walls and roofs, thus the load on the self-supporting walls is only from the dead weight of the material from which the self-supporting walls are made. This makes it possible to use almost any materials for the construction of self-supporting walls that can withstand wind load and the effects of atmospheric precipitation. Self-supporting walls can be brick and stone and heavy concrete, but for the reasons given above, materials that have the necessary resistance to heat transfer are usually used for the construction of self-supporting walls. In addition, wall materials must have good frost resistance and low water absorption. How more water absorbed by the wall material, the worse the thermal insulation will end up and the faster the material can collapse when freezing in winter time absorbed water. But as a rule, less dense materials, due to their structure, have a sufficiently high water absorption and therefore often need additional protection.
Well, now let's take a closer look at the most commonly used
Wall materials:
Building materials used for the construction of walls can be classified according to various criteria: by origin, by method of production, by strength, by weight, by thermal conductivity, by size, by simplicity and speed of installation, by availability, by aesthetics, by environmental friendliness, by price etc. Each of the above signs is certainly important, so choose the most suitable option when building your home is not so easy. One of the most indicative to me seems to be the classification of wall materials by size and weight, since most of the construction sites of private houses combines low level mechanization, meaning that most of the goods are lifted by hand. Further, the materials for the walls are considered precisely from this position, while at the same time they are given brief characteristics materials on other specified grounds.
To size wall materials are divided into:
Small piece wall materials.
Small pieces are materials that can be handled relatively easily. As a rule, the weight of one element does not exceed 20-30 kg. Accordingly, wall elements made of denser materials are smaller than those made of less dense materials. Small-piece wall materials include:
A natural stone
obtained from rocks.
Earthen and earthen walls are also erected using formwork, but such walls in recent times- very rare.
As you can see, despite the fact that people have long gone down from the trees, out of the caves and out of the dugouts, the material for the walls is still wood, stones, and sometimes clay. So don't believe in genetic memory after that ...
In a previous article, I talked about how to correctly calculate the foundation for a brick house, but today we will consider the diagram of the foundation itself and determine under what walls it is needed. Also, in this article, I will talk about how to prepare a site and correctly mark all the walls under which concrete will be poured.
We have already figured out which foundation is better for a brick house, and, in our case, the choice fell on the tape one, but in order not to repeat ourselves, we will immediately proceed to the scheme.
Foundation scheme for a brick house
In order to determine the scheme strip foundation, let's take a look at the layout of the rooms in the house.
As we can see, there are a lot of walls in the house, and pouring a monolithic reinforced concrete tape under each of them is impractical, since in this case, the cost of the foundation will at least double.
In most cases, it is sufficient to build a foundation only under load-bearing and heavy walls. Thin and relatively lightweight partitions can be erected on a rough concrete (reinforced concrete) floor.
Load-bearing and self-supporting walls
Now let's take a look at the diagram of the foundation itself, and then I will explain on what basis the internal load-bearing walls were selected.
Carriers walls No. 1 and No. 2 are designed to more evenly transfer the load from the roof to the foundation. Their additional purpose is to prevent significant "sagging" of wooden ceiling beams, since there is a very large distance between the opposite outer walls.
The diagram below shows how the ceiling wooden beams, on which the entire roof will rest.
In this regard, these walls will be at least 20 - 25 cm thick, which means they will already have a relatively large weight. In addition, the roof will still rest on them, and the absence of a foundation under such walls is fraught with consequences.
Wall number 3 separates the garage from the main house. No matter how well the garage is heated, it doesn't matter if winter period, it will be the coldest room in the house due to the constantly opening gates.
So, in connection with the above, in order to retain heat in the house, it was decided to make this wall thickened, the same as all the outer walls. Although it will be practically self-supporting, it will still have significant weight, which implies that there is a sufficient foundation under it.
The rest of the walls separating the rooms and other rooms from each other can be made with thin partitions, the load from which can be easily sustained by a reinforced concrete floor poured over the ground. In other words, the foundation under the self-supporting thin partitions will not be poured.
Foundation thickness under load-bearing walls
In the previous article, in which we calculated the foundation for a brick house, I said that the entire monolithic reinforced concrete tape will be 40 cm thick, despite the fact that the total thickness of the outer walls will be about 50 cm.
The diagram below shows how a 50cm wide wall will be located on a 38cm wide plinth. (Why the foundation is 40cm, and the plinth is 38cm - read in the previous article).
The diagram is rather approximate and, accordingly, without observing the proportions. Parameters such as thickness sand pillow, the thickness of the monolithic reinforced concrete slab etc. - we will consider later, in the relevant topics.
Since a rough reinforced concrete floor will immediately be poured over the basement, there will be no "sagging" of the wall, and for strength and support on the ground, the base of the foundation 40 cm will be sufficient. This will save on foundation costs.
Site preparation and foundation marking
Your main enemy in the process of marking the foundation is grass and uneven ground, due to which most of the errors in measurements occur. Therefore, before marking, the future construction site was cleared of tall vegetation (grass, shrubs, etc.). In most cases, it is enough to use a trimmer (benzo or electric scythe) to clean and prepare the site.
I didn't have to align anything, since construction site and so it turned out to be more or less even.
Of course, some time and effort was spent on cleaning, but this made it possible to more accurately mark the foundation and subsequently greatly facilitated and accelerated the work.
It should be added that in our region they monitor the cleanliness of plots, and abandoned and overgrown ones imply a significant fine for the owner.
Strip foundation marking
The marking was carried out using a tape measure, a cord, pegs made of reinforcement d8mm, and a hammer with which these same pegs were driven.
First of all, we determine the location of the house on the site. Schematically it looks like this:
Before marking the location of the house on the site, carefully study the documents permitting the construction. There should be spelled out the basic rules for placing a house, relative to the red line and neighboring plots. In the diagram, there is a red line at the bottom.
Now, you need to mark out the rectangular perimeter of the entire house. Below in the diagram, the perimeter is indicated by red dots.
Only after that, you can start marking the foundation. Now there is something to start from and mark all the walls will not be difficult.
The procedure and technology for accurately marking the foundation for the house, without the use of expensive tools and devices, is very simple and detailed in one of the previous articles. In our case, it was produced in exactly the same way, so we will not dwell on this.
After accurately marking the perimeter of the house, checking the coincidence of the sizes of the diagonals, we marked all external walls, and then the internal ones. Thus, everything was ready for the next stage of construction of our future home.
It should be added that the marking was done together for about 2 hours, since the house is huge with big amount corners. By the way, the markup can be done by one person, but it is quite long and difficult to do for sure.
Well, in principle, that's all that concerns foundation diagrams for the house as well as all preparatory work... Well, in the next article we will proceed directly to the construction of the foundation itself under brick house.
