How soft tiles are attached. Do-it-yourself soft roof: preparation and installation of a soft roof

Today, soft roofs not only occupy a leading position in the market, but have become a real discovery for designers and architects. Many styles, individual solutions and the possibility of easy implementation on a roof with a complex structure - what more could you want? The main thing is to achieve absolute tightness between the shingles, on which the durability of the entire coating depends. And the installation of flexible tiles will be within your power, believe me, even if you are faced with this type of work for the first time!

Therefore, if you carefully read our advice, then with the help of one more person you will cover even a large roof area. The fact is that even in the factory, the shingles are prepared for gluing, applying a special solution to the bottom layer, and they even make four holes so that you know exactly where to drive the roofing nails. And now we will tell you about all the intricacies of working with a soft roof.

Once the roof frame is ready, install the vapor barrier like a continuous carpet on the inside of the roof, without gaps, and fix it to the rafters with wooden planks. On the same strips you will then fasten the inner lining of the attic.

Now take care of the vapor barrier. If the attic is cold, then all the moisture will come out of it by itself, with the help of natural ventilation. But in the case of a residential attic, vapor barrier is necessary. For this purpose, an additional bar is stuffed on the rafters, rolled out vapor barrier film with an overlap and glued with a special adhesive tape (the usual one does not fit!).

Next, from the outside, lay the selected insulation on the vapor barrier film, preferably spaced apart. Cover with a windproof membrane on top and fix with bars, which will also later serve to create ventilation ducts.

As a result, you should get such a “layer cake”, as roofers like to call it:

We have prepared for you detailed master class how and in what order everything should happen:

As you can see from the above photos, it was not difficult to lay the flexible sheets on the curved lucarnes!

Step 2. Installing solid decking

For the installation of flexible tiles, a rigid solid base is required. Therefore, on the prepared crate, mount a solid carpet of plywood or OSB boards, with a gap of 3-5 mm, which is necessary for deformation from temperature and moisture, and fix it to the rafters with self-tapping screws.

The main requirement for the base for shingles is a flat area and the ability to fix shingles with nails. For this, sheets of glued wood shavings like plywood or tongue and groove board, laid end to end. Only the board should be as dry as possible so that waves do not form during drying. But it is a big mistake to use only the crate itself under the soft roof, albeit more frequent, because already in the first season the entire roof will simply go in waves. And photos with such problems become a real asset for manufacturers who scare their customers with such mistakes.

Once the base is ready, reinforce the cornice overhang with metal strips. These are laid with an edge on the edge of the base and fastened with roofing nails, in increments of 150 mm, in a checkerboard pattern:

Step 3. Selecting and installing the substrate

Now is the time to take care of waterproofing. It is necessary in such difficult places as adjoining, joints and valleys. Here the canvases are laid from the bottom up with an overlap of 10 cm in the longitudinal and 15 cm in the transverse direction:

We recommend that you use a specially designed underlay, and not roofing paper or similar material, as is sometimes done. The fact is that they also have a finishing roofing - different dates operation, and even the terms of use!

And such an attempt to save money will soon lead to swelling of the entire roofing carpet. In addition, no manufacturer will guarantee a roof that uses third-party materials in the pie.

By the way, until recently, lining carpets were practically not used in Russia, and even today many people strive to cheat. This is logical, because by the time the roof is built, it often turns out that the planned budget for the whole house is not enough, and you have to make concessions. But, if you want to lay a flexible tile roofing and forget about it for many decades, then do not give up such an important element.

There is always a risk that water will seep into the roof space, especially in difficult places such as bypassing chimneys or making contact with an installed antenna. There are also emergency situations when a strong wind lifts the shingles during a downpour.

Moreover, it is not difficult to pick up a roofing carpet, because. it is subject to the same requirements as for tiles: to be resistant to temperature extremes, to provide reliable waterproofing and serve for a long time. And the modern market provides many options, both imported and domestic. Moreover, many plants in Russia today operate on European equipment and are not inferior to foreign analogues in terms of product quality.

In general, lining carpets are of two types: self-adhesive and mechanically fixed. Self-adhesive ones are laid mainly in valleys, and mechanical ones are rolled out on the remaining area of \u200b\u200bthe roof and fixed with galvanized nails:

Here is the process of installing a conventional roofing carpet, which will need to be fixed with bituminous mastic:

Here is an example of working with a more modern self-adhesive roofing mat:

So, for a valley, a self-adhesive waterproofing carpet is ideal. And, if the slopes have a slope of more than 18 degrees, then consider laying the carpet in all places of probable leaks, and these are: ribs, ridges, gable overhang and all exits of roofing elements.

But on a roof with a slope of 12 to 18 degrees, you will need a continuous waterproofing carpet. Prior to this, we recommend putting a self-adhesive bitumen-polymer material on the cornice overhangs, for example, "Barrier", and at the same time strive to ensure that the carpet itself is without overlap - continuous along the entire length:

Also insulate the ventilation passages, areas around skylights and chimneys. Before the installation of flexible tiles, coat all the passage elements with bituminous mastic with your own hands - this is not difficult.

Before you start laying shingles, you will also need to reinforce the eaves. You need to fix them with roofing nails in increments of 10-15 cm. Here is an informative video lesson from the company on this topic:

Step 4. Selecting fasteners

To fix flexible shingles, you will need special wide-head nails. It will be extremely important to nail them so that the hat is in the same plane with the surface of each shingle, and at the same time does not “crash” into it. In addition, nails for soft tiles must be galvanized.

Nails for mounting soft tiles are divided into the following types:

Roofing nails. They have such a sharpened point that when deepened into the bitumen layer, they do not violate its integrity. Such nails are produced galvanized or without a protective layer at all. Of course, unprotected ones are the cheapest, but at the same time they are not at all practical and quickly begin to rust. These are only suitable for assembling furniture or building temporary shelters.
Ruffed nails. On the working rod, they have special cloves that are directed towards the cap. These are not easily hammered into the wood, although it is quite difficult to pull them out even with a nail puller. And most often, in the process of dismantling, they simply cut off the head of the ruffed nails - and that's it. They fix the roofing so firmly that they are more often used for slate than for soft roof.
club nails have longitudinal grooves and lintels on the working rod, and they are less suitable for soft roofing.

We recommend that you take exactly galvanized ruffed nails with a head diameter of 8-9 millimeters as roofing nails specifically for flexible tiles. They also produce special nails for bituminous shingles, and they differ from standard counterparts.

These are made from durable steel wire, which is automatically cut into equal pieces, then on one side the workpiece is sharpened, and on the other, it is riveted into the shape of a hat. If you see these for sale, you can buy them.

But it is important at the same time that the nails themselves comply with GOST 4030-63: the diameter of the rod is 3.5 mm, and the diameter of the cap is at least 8 mm. The thing is that in working with concrete shingles, the most unpleasant moment is when the nails, at the next blow, simply sink into the bituminous layer and violate the integrity of the coating. But the extended hat will not be able to “drown” so easily. And the larger it is, the better it will hold the shingle, which is why high-quality nails for shingles resemble a pushpin. Moreover, for single-layer and two-layer tiles, you will need nails with parameters of 30x3.5 mm, and for a three-layer one - 45x3.5 mm.

By the way, some unfortunate builders do not understand why it is impossible to simply heat up the sheets of soft tiles and stick them on the flooring, why nails and all the fuss associated with them? In fact, the use of open fire on such a roof is prohibited due to elementary considerations. fire safety. So forget about this risky idea and rent an automatic device.

Step 5 Place the Starting Strip

And now we proceed directly to the laying of flexible tiles. It starts from the start line. As such, you can take:

a pattern from an ordinary tile, for example, a shingle with cut petals, if you are working with collections " Tango" or " Trio»;
universal ridge-cornice tiles, especially if you work with " Chord», « Sonata" or " Jazz».

If it is more convenient for you to start with the eaves shingles, lay them on top of the metal strip, stepping back a little from the place of the inflection. Next, nail it with nails, but keep in mind that the longer and steeper the slope, the greater should be the indent from the bend:

This is how laying the starting strip looks in practice:

Step 6. Installation of different types of shingles

Now let's unpack the shingles. The main requirement for their installation is dry, warm weather, because it is undesirable to lay bituminous tiles at temperatures below + 5 ° C, because. in areas where it will need to be bent, it will be difficult to do without cracks.

If you still have to fasten the shingles in such conditions, then prevention will be needed: the sheets are heated building hair dryer and bend on a metal pipe about 10 cm in diameter. But it's better not to do that.

count up required amount shingles is not difficult: take one sheet, measure the area that will be visible, find out the area of \u200b\u200bthe slope and divide the second by the first. Here valuable advice how to calculate and prepare a flexible tile for installation:

Of course, if you have a diamond eye, then detailed calculations can be dispensed with, but marking lines serve as excellent guides along which you can align the tiles both vertically and horizontally. Especially if you are laying a soft roof for the first time.

Believe me, tearing off a few sheets and attaching them again to fix a jamb is not the most fun thing. And absolutely without marking, if some element is embedded in the roof or the general geometry of the ramp is broken. In this case, you will be helped by such tools as a beating, a plumb line and a level.

As we have already said, for convenience, ready-made shingles are usually marked with small holes in the factory, so that you know exactly where to hammer nails. If there are none (for example, the cheapest collections), then just step back 2-3 cm from the edge and be guided by this illustration:

In each case, the place where the nail is driven will directly depend on the shape of the cutting of the tile itself. It is only important that each nail pierces both the lower and upper edges of all sheets at the same time, and if you are laying flexible tiles on slopes with an angle of 45 °, then the upper corners of the shingle also need to be additionally fixed.

The whole procedure for laying flexible tiles is not complicated, here are the instructions for the process itself:

Before laying, mix the shingles from several sticks to minimize color variation. The fact is that even in one mail the color can differ so much that you will be surprised, and such incidents will be very noticeable on the roof.
If the slope is long enough, start laying tiles from its center and align it horizontally. And the second row - already shifting the shingles to the left or right by half a sheet. Move the third and all subsequent rows relative to the previous one, also half the petal, to the left or right, depending on which direction you chose initially.
You need to start laying the tiles on a slope with a smaller slope, while you should enter a steeper slope by at least 30 cm. On a steeper slope, it is recommended to beat off the chalk lines so as not to go astray. Now cut the tile on a more slope along this new line, and fix it with bituminous mastic where there is no self-adhesive layer on the back side.
Lay the tiles from the bottom up, stepping back from the edge of the drips. Here it will be necessary to lay a special ridge-cornice tile. By the way, you can replace it with a regular one if you cut the petals.

Now secure the shingles. An automatic tool is good for this, especially if it works from electrical network. Most importantly, when choosing a model, take care of your own safety: trigger mechanism should be comfortable, with protection against accidental shooting and the ability to remove a stuck nail without any risk. After all, usually a hammer is more intended for small work on household, and professional roofers rarely use it.

The only point: if special roofing nails do not fit the gun, take a ready-made clip with nails with a wide flat head. They differ in that they are interconnected thin wire. Here such a tape is inserted into the chamber and the nail is fed one by one. This is much more convenient when working at height: no need to look for bunches, no need to put your fingers under the blow, and the fastening itself will be of better quality than when you are already too tired on the 501st nail. The main thing is to follow the basic technology: the nail must be driven in strictly perpendicular to the plane of the shingle.

Remember, if some shingle was fixed unreliably, then over time it will loosen its fastening and fly off with a gust of wind. And the nail itself, lifted from the wind, will tear the sheet, loosening the neighboring one. And all this will lead to leakage and necessary repairs. Of course, it will not be possible to completely do without problem areas, which is why a periodic inspection of such a roof is needed.

Now consider the features of the installation of shingles different types. So, with a single-layer tile, before installation, you need to remove the protective film, which is always located on both sides of the shingle. Why is she? The fact is that this roofing is transported by ordinary trucks both in the heat and in the heat, but we are still talking about bitumen.

But in collections with such cuts as " dragon tooth”, there is no film, it is only important to choose beautiful drawing or lay randomly by simply mixing the shingles.

And how exactly to work with each type of shingle cutting, the following illustrations will help you:

Further, if you have to work with complex roof, you have two ways of laying shingles: segmented and seamless. In the first method, divide the corner or cone into equal segments, and lay out each of them separately. And in this way, cover the entire roof. The seamless method is already more complicated: here it is important to make correct markup slope and navigate along it. Think and choose the one that seems more convenient to you.

Step 7. Fixing the tiles in the valleys

And now about the most problem areas roofs. Valleys, namely the internal bends of the roof, you can organize in two ways: open and closed, which is also called the undercut method. The main thing then is to make a triangular rail at the junction of the roof with the wall and put tiles under it.

In addition, if the wall is brick, it must be plastered and treated with a bituminous primer. The upper part of the junction should then be closed with a metal apron, which must be fixed and inserted into the strobes, and then sealed:

Step 8. Laying ridge and back tiles

Next, we will deal with the concepts of ridge tiles. As you might guess, these are the shingles that cover the ridge of the roof. All other tiles are called ordinary. By the way, spinal tiles are obtained when the ridge-eaves are divided into three parts, or they are cut out from the usual ordinary by perforation.

To properly lay the back tiles, with the help of a cord, beat off the dimensions of the future ridge - these are two strips along it, and lay the back tiles from the bottom up. Then fix the shingles with nails on each side and make sure that the overlap of the overlying shingles overlaps the nails by 5 cm.

The ridge tiles are laid from the side that is opposite to the so-called wind rose (you can find out about this from your neighbors or from the wind map). Further - everything is the same as during the laying of the ridge. If there is no self-adhesive layer in the right places, coat it with mastic.

Now let's move on to the ribs. Here, ordinary tiles should be cut so that a distance of 3 to 5 mm remains between adjacent slopes:

Here is another great tutorial where you can go over the details of the process:

And finally, finishing work. The laying of flexible tiles is always completed by installing a ridge aerator. To do this, a special groove is cut out along all the slopes, and an aerator is inserted into it. It is fixed with nails and covered with specially ridge tiles.

Also, for a soft roof, special additional elements are made - these are the lower parts of the roof passages, which are popularly called "skirts". And so that snow does not accumulate behind the ventilation and chimney pipes, especially when their cross section exceeds 50x50 cm, you need to organize a groove. In short, you will need the following elements:

So, your roof is ready, and it remains only to properly care for it. To do this, once every six months, use a soft brush to sweep all the small debris from the roof, leaves and branches. The main thing is not to use sharp tools, because it is important not to scratch the basalt chips. And clean the gutters and funnels from time to time.

Luckily, shingle roofing is highly maintainable: just warm up the damaged area, remove it, and lay new tiles. A matter of one day!

In fact, flexible tiles, like other modern similar materials, are a kind of roofing material. At the same time, it, unlike the usual soft roof, also has an attractive appearance. This type of tile is made in the form of tiles, which are called shingles. From one edge they are even, from the other they have a figured cutout imitating a clay original. From the back, the tile is coated with an adhesive composition that allows you to securely fix it on a wooden base.

Flexible roof tiles convenient in that its installation is easily done by hand, even in the absence of skills and work experience. Each shingle is installed in individually. Additionally, they are fixed with self-tapping screws or special carnations. Over time, from the heat of the sun, all the tiles are soldered and turn into a single whole.

Laying technology

As practice shows, now it is flexible tiles that are the most demanded material for roofs. It can be easily overlaid with both a gazebo and a large cottage, regardless of the steepness of the slopes and the complexity of the design. The only exception is roofs with a slope of less than 11.3 degrees.

At present, products of many manufacturers are supplied to the Russian market. All of them, however, are not very different from each other. Therefore, the problem of choice is limited solely by the homeowner's own preferences.

It should be noted that for all types of flexible tiles there is only one installation method. You don't need to invent your own. The difference lies only in some minor nuances.

On the one hand, many believe that the flexibility of shingles is its main advantage, while many experts tend to see this as a significant drawback. In general, both of these points of view have the right to life - soft material much easier and faster to lay, because for fitting it is enough to use a knife or a guillotine. Nevertheless, the installation of flexible tiles requires a rigid solid base, for the construction of which the following materials are suitable:

OSB-plate of the third class of resistance (budget option);
moisture resistant plywood - FSF type;
tongue-and-groove or plain edged board (moisture content not more than 20 percent).

The plates must be laid in a run-up, avoiding the convergence of four corners at one point - this allows you to strengthen the structure. In this case, the edges of the sheet material should fall on the bars of the counter-lattice.

There is no need to fit the plates tightly to each other, on the contrary, a narrow gap of up to 3 millimeters should be left between them. This will allow the entire structure to move freely with alternating temperature conditions and changes in humidity.

The roof is sheathed with boards parallel to the ground in rows. They are laid in a run in situations where one board is not enough for the entire length of the ramp. Their ends must be supported on a counter-lattice, secured with at least four nails. The gaps in this case should be slightly larger - up to 5 millimeters, since this type of lumber deforms much stronger than plywood when dried. Also, a damp board often warps if it is poorly fixed.

Ventilation is an important aspect of a proper roof

In addition to protecting the building from rain, care must also be taken to ensure that the moisture trapped under the roof escapes freely into the atmosphere. Otherwise, the condensate that collects inside the attic will remain there, and the entire structure will quickly become unusable. In order to prevent this, a special film is used - a hydrobarrier. It allows steam to pass through, but it does not let water in in the opposite direction.

Also, the roof is supplied with special ventilation gaps, called air vents. They allow air to circulate freely under the roof from the bottom up. The channels are formed directly by the counter-lattice and the crate.

A gap is also needed between the roof and the insulation if an attic is being built in the attic. Air masses passing through mineral wool, dry it.

Laying waterproofing

This is extremely important point, without which it is impossible to ensure a long service life of the roof as a whole. As a rule, the manufacturer of shingles also supplies the market with their own hydrobarriers, which will need to be used. However, it is allowed to use products of competitors similar in characteristics. A list of suitable materials is often given in the instructions supplied with the shingles.

At the same time, the use of analogues can eventually lead to unreliable bonding of the roofing flexible material. Completely unacceptable to use polyethylene film or ruberoid. All this often leads to swelling of the roof. In addition, it would not be very far-sighted to use a material as a substrate that is much less durable than the top layer, because bituminous tiles can last from 15 to 30 years.

The insulation is laid in two ways, depending on the characteristics of the roof. So, roofs are covered in a continuous way, the slope of which is less than 18 degrees. Waterproofing is sold in rolls. Its strips are applied parallel to the ridge, starting from the very bottom. Each subsequent strip overlaps the previous one (15 centimeters). All joints must be coated with bitumen mastic. In addition, the waterproofing is also attached to the base with roofing studs every 25 centimeters.

Also, additional strips of bituminous roofing material are laid on top:

on overhangs;
in the area of junctions with pipes and other structures;
in valleys.

After that, the ridge and the protruding elements of the roof are again covered with insulation.

Roofs with a slope of more than 18 degrees are only partially covered with waterproofing. With this option, strips of polymeric material coated with bitumen are laid along the edges of the roof near:

gables;
skate;
other convex structures.

Valleys and bevels, in turn, are protected in a similar way. In addition, additional insulation is laid around chimneys, ventilation pipes and in places where the roof adjoins other architectural elements.

The bituminous polymer strip should have a width of:

half a meter overhang;
meter in valleys, so that each side has 50 centimeters;
up to 30 centimeters in the area of chimneys and other vertical structures interlocking with the roof.

In the latter case, the material must partially bend onto the wall.

Polymer roofing materials that will go to the base must be matched to the tone of the tiles. You should not look for an exact match - this will allow you to focus on the split blocks.

It is also worth noting that the valleys must be covered with a single strip. If this cannot be avoided, it is better to place the joint in the upper part of the roof. The overlap in this case should be at least 20 centimeters.

Tiling

For convenience, the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe roof must be marked with a chopping cord. In this case, horizontal lines are applied every five rows of tiles, while vertical lines are applied in accordance with the width of one shingle.

Next, the actual installation begins. First you need to stick the cornice row directly along the overhang. Such end shingles are sold separately, but it can also be easily made from ordinary shingles - for this, it is enough to remove the curly part from the shingle to get an even strip.

The overhang is pre-supplied with a cornice strip made of tin. The prepared strip of bituminous tiles is glued, stepping back from the edge of the roof by 1 centimeter. The adhesive layer is protected by a special tape - it must be removed. The remaining loose areas are additionally smeared with mastic. Cornice shingles are fastened with nails for reliability. It is important not to skew when driving them - the hat should lie clearly parallel to the counter-lattice.

They perform the most important function in the house - protective. Therefore, they must be of high quality and durable. Flexible shingles, which are installed in stages, are a very common roofing material. It almost in all cases it satisfies the requirements of the buyer.

What is a material?

Flexible tiles, reviews about it are almost always positive - this is a plate consisting of several layers, and having one carved edge. Such material can have a different shape and size. The main ingredient that is used during the manufacture of such a roof is fiberglass or polyester. This explains the softness of the product. As for the strength characteristics, they appear due to impregnation with bitumen.

In addition, the composition of the material contains various synthetic additives, the purpose of which is to increase the necessary properties: resistance to external influences, frost, elasticity. It should be noted that due to this composition, the presented products have a large number of advantages.

In order for the material to have a beautiful appearance, multi-colored stone chips are applied to its surface. Next, you will consider the technical characteristics of such a roof that make it so popular.

Material Advantages

Flexible tiles, reviews about it will help you decide whether you want to buy it or not, it has the following advantages:

1. There is no need to build reinforced structures, since the presented material is light in weight.

2. Easy to use and stack.

3. A wide range of prices, which allows anyone to buy a roof, regardless of their income or social status.

4. A large number of species.

5. Wide range of colors.

6. Absence of extraneous noise (for example, raindrops).

7. Resistant to temperature extremes, fading, precipitation, cracking, corrosion, decay, fire and insect damage.

8. Excellent waterproofing.

9. Ease of transportation and installation (even on complex roofs).

10.Environmental friendly and long service life.

Product Disadvantages

Despite the fact that the roof of shingles has a lot of advantages, it also has certain disadvantages:

During installation, it is necessary to observe the slope of the roof, which ranges from 12-45 degrees.

The quality of the product depends on the fulfillment of all necessary requirements in production.

Such material should be laid on a solid surface (crate).

As you can see, flexible tile, the price of which is acceptable for almost any buyer, has not so many easily eliminated shortcomings.

Specifications

The presented material has the following features:

1. Temperature mode of use: -50 - +115 degrees.

2. Mass per 1 square meter- 5 kg.

3. Warranty period - 30 years.

4. Sheet dimensions: length - 1 m, width - 33.3 cm.

5. Number of products in one package: 10-22 pcs.

In principle, these are the main characteristics of the material presented. Thanks to them, you can calculate the cost of tiles on your roof, and determine the cost of repairs in advance.

Material types

Flexible tiles, the price of which is 200-2500 rubles per square meter, can be of different types:

1. Self-adhesive. Its feature is the adhesive base, which is covered with a special protective film during production. During installation, it is enough to remove it.

2. Traditional. It is attached with special adhesives.

In addition, there are also ordinary and ridge tiles. These species also have their own narrow purpose. You can also find in stores different forms products and various colors of sheets. If you need a flexible tile, its types should be chosen based on the requirements of the roof and your own preferences.

Material laying features

This section is very important for those who are going to do the installation themselves. Laying flexible tiles is not very simple process. The fact is that it requires maximum attention, caution, accuracy and compliance with instructions. There are certain features of the procedure:

1. First of all, you must protect yourself while working at height. So wear comfortable work clothes and shoes, and play it safe with strong connections.

2. Naturally, you will need to collect all essential tool: scissors or a knife for cutting canvases, mastic (if necessary), nails (for better fixing of the material on the surface of the crate).

3. Please note that the base must meet the requirements of the tiles as much as possible. First, it must be solid. Secondly, the crate must be at a certain angle (not less than 10 and not more than 45 degrees, although vertical parts can also be covered).

4. Work better in warm time year at a temperature that will not be lower than +5 degrees.

5. It is better to combine the color of the tiles with the shade of the facade. In this case, you can achieve an almost perfect design.

6. Laying shingles can be done using a hot air burner.

As you can see, there are some nuances that are very important to observe during work.

Preparation for installation: organizing the crate

If you have chosen a flexible tile, its installation should be carried out only after careful preparation. That is, you will need to build a crate. This stage is very important for high-quality laying of the material.

So, for the construction of the base, it is better to use edged boards or plywood, protected from moisture. Please note that the joints between the elements should fall just on the supports. The surface must be flat, so use the building level in the process.

It is also necessary to take into account ventilation gap under the roof. It should be about 5 cm. Thanks to him, you can not worry about the safety and durability of the rafter structure. In addition, the normal temperature regime for life will be established inside the room.

If the base is not rigid enough, flexible tiles, its installation must begin after the selection of colors and material pattern, will look ugly. In addition, it will not fully perform its functions.

Installation instructions

Now we can consider, in fact, the stages of laying the presented roof:

1. Installation of the lining. It should be attached to all parts of the roof: end, valley, eaves, near the junction with outer walls, around attic windows, pipes. A slight slope of the base predetermines the laying of the lining over its entire surface. It is necessary to perform it, starting from the top of the roof and going down. The material should be laid with an overlap (10 cm). The seams of the product must be sealed with glue. In order for the lining to hold well on the base, it is better to additionally fix it with nails.

2. Installation of cornice strips and gable strips. This should be done with a certain overlap of 2-3 cm. Fixation is done using roofing nails. The distance between the fasteners is no more than 10 cm. At the joints, the pitch is 3 cm.

3. Laying the valley carpet. It is needed in order to provide additional waterproofing. The material must match color scheme tiles. Otherwise, it may break the combination.

4. Installation of cornice tiles. This should be done end to end. At the same time, you need to step back a few centimeters from the place of the bend of the bar.

5. Installation of ordinary tiles. Here you need to use material from several packages at once. This will ensure uniform coverage. In this case, flexible tiles, installation can be carried out only after fully familiarizing yourself with the instructions, it is laid starting from the center of the cornice overhang and moving towards the ends. The first row must be fixed so that the pattern necessarily coincides with the already laid material. It should be located 4 cm below the cornice tiles. Next, the product must be fixed so that the ends of the sheets are at the same level as the cutouts of the previous plates. If the material is located correctly, then you can remove the protective film (or smear the base with mastic) and stick it. Additionally, a few nails can be driven in a little above the tile groove line.

6. Installation of ridge material. Each part of this tile must be fixed with two nails. In this case, it spreads with an overlap of 5 cm. In this case, the tiles should be laid so that their short sides are parallel to the ridge.

7. Gluing the seams. This is done with a special substance.

Each row must be laid with a shift of half a meter to the previous one. This will ensure the tightness of the roof. If you decide to use such material as sheets will be very useful for you.

Features of shingles "Shinglas"

This material is very popular. The tile "Shinglas" possesses excellent appearance, is steady against corrosion processes thanks to the basalt granulate which is a part of it. In addition, the material has a self-adhesive backing.

Shinglas tiles can serve you for decades, which is stated in the product warranty. The main advantages of the material are noiselessness, ease of use and installation, excellent resistance to negative temperatures. Due to the lightness of the product, it will not weigh down the structure, which means there will be no additional load on the foundation. This allows you to use this roof when building houses on weak soils.

Another property of the material is a small amount of waste. And moisture resistance ensures good preservation of the pattern and protection of the house for many years.

How to properly care for the roof?

Flexible tiles, you already know the installation instructions, will last much longer. If properly cared for:

1. Do not allow the material to come into contact with vegetable oils, solvents, gasoline.

2. Try not to use sharp objects during the inspection of the roofs, which can damage it.

3. Do not walk on the roof too often, so that there is no undue stress on the material.

4. The roof should not be in contact with hot steam or heat sources that heat up to more than 45 degrees.

That's all. Now you know how flexible tiles are laid. Good luck!

A reliable, inexpensive and easy-to-install roof is one of the most cherished wishes of the developer. Simplicity, the possibility of arranging with your own hands without the help of third parties - laying soft tiles differs in all parameters. Affordable technology, democratic cost of the material, no need for special skills and tools make laying out easier. And we will tell you how to install soft tiles with your own hands.

Preliminary calculation of the material, additional elements, fasteners - a pledge quality arrangement roofing carpet. Approximate costs are:

The number of shingles in a box can be different: from 1.5 to 3 m2. It all depends on the size of the elements (including overlap). All parameters are indicated on the box, the material should be bought with a margin of 5-7%.
Mastic in quantity: 200 g/m2 for valley carpet, 100 g/m2 for ends, 750 g/m2 for junctions, nodes.
Nails 30 mm long, galvanized with 3 mm shank and 9 mm head, 80 g/m2.

All calculations are averaged standard. You will also need tools:

Knife for trimming bituminous shingles, substrates;
Scissors for metal (or others) for trimming planks;
Hammer for fasteners;
Brush for bituminous mastic.

Advice! If the laying of flexible tiles with your own hands is done in the cold season, a burner will come in handy for heating the bituminous layer. Despite the possibility of carrying out work up to -5 ..-7 degrees, it is better to equip the roofing carpet in warm, dry, not the hottest and calm weather. In the cold, the flexibility of shingles decreases, the risk of cracking increases, in extreme heat bituminous materials overheat and melt.

Roofing cake for shingles

With the arrangement of a roofing pie for soft tiles, a large stage of work begins. Depending on the purpose, the attic can be warm or cold. The purpose of the under-roof space affects the arrangement of the roofing pie, however, the part above the rafters is always the same:

a layer of waterproofing material;
bars with a thickness of 30 mm;
crate in the form of a continuous flooring.

Important! Additional elements: junction slats, cornice overhangs, pediment slats are made of special steel.

Laying out waterproofing

Membrane materials can be one-, two-, three-layer.

Single layer waterproofing- available and cheap option, performing the task of preventing moisture from entering the room and not preventing fumes from escaping to the outside.
Two-, three-layer materials- more durable and practical. They have an absorbent layer that absorbs condensate, as well as a layer of reinforcing material, which gives greater tensile strength.

Advice! Three-layer waterproofing membranes are shown in the case of mineral wool insulation. The material is afraid of getting wet and with an increase in humidity even by 10% loses 56-60% of its quality characteristics. In the case of arranging a cold attic, it is better to use a two-layer membrane sheet: the price is slightly more expensive than a single-layer one, but the strength is much higher.

Advice! If the slope angle is more than 18 °, waterproofing membranes should be placed parallel to the end and cornice planes. The junction points have an increased risk of leaks, therefore the layout is carried out with an overlap. The same is true for the skate area. If necessary, the ridge area is covered with another lining carpet. Work is carried out from the bottom up, fastening is carried out with nails with an increased cap size. Mounting step 20 cm.

Ventilation

Roof ventilation made of soft tiles is usually arranged by means of a ridge. It is laid out on a ribbed profile. In case of insufficiency of this method, ventilation elements are laid on the roof surface. This is the name of profiles with ribs located at a distance of 20 mm from each other. Structures are attached to the base with nails.

Sheathing and flooring

Immediately after laying the waterproofing, the lathing strips are stuffed on top. Thick timber elements create the necessary ventilation gap. The crate is made from a bar of coniferous wood. The thickness of the elements is at least 30 mm; before installation, the wood is treated with impregnations against decay and fire.

Important! The length of the boards for the crate is a distance equal to two spans of rafters. Fastening is carried out above the rafter legs.

Do-it-yourself installation of flexible tiles is carried out on a solid flooring. It is made from OSB3, sheets of moisture-resistant plywood, tongue-and-groove or edged boards 25 mm thick, with a moisture content of not more than 20%.

Important! The layout of solid elements is carried out with gaps - compensators for thermal expansion of the material. For plywood or OSB, the gap width is 3 mm, for boards 1-5 mm. Sheet dies are fastened in the way of running up the seams so that the joints are not continuous. Mounting on self-tapping screws or ruffed nails.

Arrangement of flooring next to chimneys with a width of more than 0.5 m often requires the construction of a mini-roof. After installing the flooring, it is necessary to check the evenness of the coating plane, dimensional parameters - the slope must be perfectly aligned.

Laying shingles

When purchasing a product, you should carefully review the instructions from the manufacturer. It necessarily indicates how to lay flexible tiles. Often it is enough to follow the step-by-step instructions to complete roofing correctly, however, preliminary familiarization with the procedure helps to allocate time.

Advice! Installation of bituminous tiles requires caution: no kinks, no creases. Unnecessarily, you should not walk on the coating.

Now the installation technology:

Strengthen the overhang. A drip bar is mounted to protect the structure of the rafters and battens from moisture. Place one edge of the dripper on the deck, close the overhang with the second. Fastening with galvanized nails. Pitch 200-250 mm, checkerboard pattern, layout with an overlap of 30 mm. The gaps are smeared with bituminous mastic, sealant.
Attach hooks for drain pipes.
Lay waterproofing carpet. The adhesive underside facilitates the installation process. Start from the valley section. From the point of inflection, an overlap of at least 0.5 m is left on both sides. It is better to do without joints, but if necessary, leave an overlap of 150 mm. Laying from bottom to top, the junction is pre-treated with bitumen-based mastic. Free residue along the cornice overhang waterproofing material 0.6 m

Advice! Before laying the waterproofing carpet is rolled out, cut, then removed protective film and only then glued to the substrate. Additional fixation along the edges with stainless steel nails will help to secure the sheet of material more firmly. The points of joints and overlaps are additionally sealed with bituminous mastic, crimped.

Carpet lining. The product also has the form of a roll with an adhesive base protected by a paper layer. The layout option depends on the profile of the selected tile shingles, the shape of the roof, the angle of the slope. In the case of choosing Jazz, Trio coverage, an underlayment is a must. If the roof slope is 12-18 °, the lining is mounted around the entire perimeter of the roof. Installation should be carried out from below, overlaps of at least 150-200 mm, lubrication of the joints is required. The top edge is additionally fastened with galvanized nails. If the slope angle is from 18 °, the lining is needed at the kinks, at the points where the gable line adjoins the wall panels.
Gable plank needed for arranging side cuts. The extension element already has desired shape, is mounted on the underlayment or waterproofing deck and fastened with nails in 150 mm increments.

Advice! When starting to lay out shingles of tiles, it is better to first mark the slope. Mesh markings will help to place the roofing material, taking into account centering, joints. It is easier and smoother to make markings with a regular paint cord.

First strip of shingles as a rule, ridge-cornice or ordinary ordinary with cut petals. The sheet is laid out on the edge of the slope so that one edge of the shingle goes to the gable bar. The lower edge of the shingle should lie on the drip with a 150 mm indent from the fold of the additional element. Fastening at the corners with a gap from the edge of 20-30 mm.

Advice! Often sheets in packs have some differences in color background. So that the laid shingles do not differ much, you should open several packs in advance and lay out the elements alternately.

How to lay ordinary soft tiles? The first shingle does not reach the edge of the starting strip 10 mm, the sheet is fixed with nails (except for the adhesive base). The number of fasteners with a slope of 12-45 ° steepness per sheet is 4 pieces, and at the junction points of two sheets, the nails are stuffed so that the hat “covers” the edges of both shingles. If the slope angle is greater than 45°, fasteners are driven into each sheet.

After the do-it-yourself installation of tiles along the slopes is completed, it remains to arrange the valley and gables. Flexible roofing has a lot of advantages, one of them is the quick arrangement of the most difficult areas. The roof in the valley area is arranged as follows:

Designate an area where nails cannot be driven in (300 mm from the middle point of the valley), mark the boundaries of the additional gutter - this is about 5-15 cm in both directions.
Now hammer the fasteners of ordinary tiles as close as possible to the line, beyond which fasteners are no longer allowed.
Cut the shingle along the gutter installation line.
To prevent water from leaking under the edge of the material, the corners of the material are cut (4-5 cm each), the loose edge is attached to bituminous mastic.

It is not difficult to lay roofing material along the gables: the side shingles are cut off with the calculation of the distance to the ribs of 10 mm. Cut the upper corner, as well as the valley elements: obliquely 4-5 cm. “Sit” the edges of the tiles on the bituminous mastic and fix with nails.

The installation of bituminous tiles on the ridge has its own characteristics: a gap is cut along the ridge element, not reaching the ribs of 300 mm. Installation of shingles is carried out before the start of the slot, after which it is mounted additional element(ridge profile). A long skate may require several profiles, this is normal. Fastening with nails, laying out end-to-end, mating points are smeared with bitumen.

Important! On the ridge, underwind installation is carried out; flexible tiles are laid out towards the wind, with an overlap of at least 30-50 mm.

Installing a soft roof is easy, especially if you follow technological subtleties process, perform an accurate preliminary calculation. Work is carried out on a dry sunny day without wind and intense heat. If clarification is required, watch a video from professionals: do-it-yourself flexible tile laying.

Private construction and the use of soft roofing is a topic that is quite relevant. This material has many advantages. Among them are light weight, absolute tightness, visual appeal, the possibility of using a wide variety of roof shapes, a long useful life and the low cost of a soft roof. Moreover, the rain does not drum on such a roof, but quietly rustles. In addition to high operational and specifications, the material allows you to carry out the installation of a soft roof on your own, without involving specialists.

The concept of soft roofing

The soft roof is modern material, the base of which are fiberglass sheets impregnated on both sides with rubber bitumen. Rubber bitumen is characterized by high tightness and moisture resistance, which is why soft roofing has spread so much during the construction of buildings. Also, the soft roof in its composition has a special dressing that increases wear resistance and prevents the roll coating from sticking together.

Soft roofing is considered an ideal covering for roofs in which the angle of inclination is at least 11 degrees. Therefore, when choosing a material for such strict requirements, be careful. Soft roofing is often called shingles, which is used as the top layer of a roofing pie and differs from other materials in its structure, which resembles rolled materials.

Styling tools

A flexible roof can be laid by 1 person. The only requirement that we have already mentioned is put forward to the roof surface - a slope of no more than 11º. But the maximum slope angle is not limited. Laying a soft roof with your own hands requires the following materials and tools: hammer, knife, mastic, sealant, mastic trowel, roofing nails, cornice and end strips, waterproofing carpet, ridge and cornice strip and work gloves.

Ventilation device

The ventilation system is able to provide air circulation, which is necessary to prevent condensation on the bottom of the base. Neglecting this step when laying a soft roof on the roof will cause the rafter system to begin to rot, and in winter, ice and icicles will form.

The constituent elements of the roof ventilation system are ventilation ducts and outlets, gaps between the waterproofing and the base (at least 5 millimeters). Natural ventilation can be provided ventilation holes, which are distributed evenly under the eaves overhang.

Lining layer

Cornice strips are made of metal and mounted on the overhangs of the cornices on the lining. They are required to protect the edges of the crate. Gable strips are also made of metal, they are fixed at the ends of the roof to protect the edge of the crate. The valley carpet provides additional protection of the roof from atmospheric precipitation. Choose it according to the color of the flexible tile.

In places where leaks are most likely, it is necessary to create a lining layer: on valleys, roof ends and eaves. A feature of the installation is the observance of the direction (from bottom to top) and overlap: in the longitudinal direction 150 millimeters, in the transverse direction - 100 millimeters. Places of overlap are usually coated with bituminous mastic.

Valleys and skates, respectively, are reinforced by 500 and 250 millimeters. In this case, the valleys must be equipped with a lining layer on both sides, and along the ends and eaves overhangs it should be laid at least 400 millimeters wide.

The lining is nailed to the base with galvanized roofing nails every 200 millimeters. The lining carpet not only protects the roof from moisture, but also from destruction if the laying of the soft roof is suspended.

Preparatory work

The base to which you will attach the soft roof must be solid. It is in this that the process of constructing a roof made of soft tiles differs from roofs for which other materials are used. For example, a metal tile must be laid on a crate, in which a gap is allowed between the bars, which is explained by the high rigidity of the metal tile. A soft roof does not possess these qualities and therefore needs a preliminary installation of a solid foundation.

To equip the base, you can use oriented strand board, moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of 9 millimeters or more, as well as grooved or edged board. If you have chosen a board as a base, then it is recommended to preliminarily keep it in a pile until an equilibrium moisture level is reached.

Buy material in the winter and use it in the summer. The width of the boards is not more than 100 millimeters. It is desirable that the material has the same thickness and is sawn on a band saw. The maximum wood moisture content is 20%.

The video on the technology of laying a soft roof shows that such materials need to be laid with a shift of the seams - apart, while leaving a gap of 1 centimeter between them. The surface must be dry, clean and smooth. The quality of installation and the service life of a soft roof will depend on these conditions.

The roofing cake must necessarily have the following layers: a waterproofing layer laid on the rafters; mineral wool insulation, if you are planning an attic device; waterproofing roofing carpet, overlapped on the base from the outside.

The subtleties of installing a soft roof

To cover the roof with a soft roof with your own hands, in addition to having free time, you also need good weather. It is customary to carry out work in warm, dry weather, while the air temperature should not fall below plus 5 Celsius. If, due to necessity, it is necessary to lay a soft roof in the winter at the wrong time, the tiles must be kept in the building at room temperature before starting work. You can also use a hot air burner.

The choice of such temperature regime due to the peculiarities of the shingle - a sheet consisting of 3-4 "tiles". It can be attached to the surface with nails or using a self-adhesive layer, which is located on the inside. The tightness of the tiles is ensured by the heat of the sun, under its influence, the sheets are soldered to the base and to each other. This does not happen at sub-zero temperatures, and high-quality insulation is not obtained.

Soft roof tiles should be used simultaneously from 5-6 packages and selected in turn one element at a time to avoid sharp differences in shades in case it is necessary to repair the soft roof with elements from another package. It is in this property that another advantage of this material lies: a small difference in shades facilitates the process of replacing tiles and decorates its matte surface.

The choice of mastic

For laying the top layer of a soft roof, a bitumen-polymer material should be used, which allows you to make a continuous elastic coating that can withstand thermal and mechanical deformations of the base. According to the technology of laying a soft roof, it is recommended to use cold and hot mastics for attaching rolled material to the roof.

Cold mastics are traditionally used for the inner layers of the roof, and the hot substance is used as an outer coating. Cold mastics include roofing material and bitumen, and hot mastics include tar and roofing felt. The mastic used must contain bitumen and a dust-like mixture or filler made from fiber. Among dusty materials, lime, gypsum and ash stand out.

Production of bituminous mastic

You can buy bituminous mastic, but you can also make your own. To do this, take the bitumen, which is close to 80% of the mastic, and filler. Taking 2 servings of bitumen and diesel fuel for 1 serving of filler, you will get a cold mixture. Bitumen needs to be heated to 180 degrees while diesel fuel and filler are being prepared elsewhere. Both boilers can be mixed only after the water has evaporated in the bitumen.

To make hot mastic, you need to use a boiler. In it, the bitumen should be heated to 200 degrees, while it is necessary to slowly add the filler. It is important that during the procedure the temperature does not drop below 160 degrees.

To check the quality of the mastic, you need to lay it at an angle of 45 degrees, after heating the mastic to 60 degrees. The video on laying a soft roof shows: if the coating drains, then its quality is poor. If it does not drain, then you should let it dry. When drying, cracks will not appear in high-quality material.

Laying a soft roof

Before laying the roof directly, walk with a solution of bitumen and diesel fuel on a wood surface. Then slowly cover with mastic, then lay the glassine and roofing material. It is customary to start installation from the middle part of the cornice and move to the ends to the right and left. On the wrong side of the soft tile, before applying, you need to remove the film that protects the adhesive.

If you use cold mastic, then you need to wait 12 hours after applying the layer, only then you can apply a new layer. When covering with hot mastic, you can apply layers one by one. Each element of the roof must be nailed in the amount of 4-6 pieces.

When laying rolls according to the instructions for laying a soft roof, make a 7-10 cm overlap. In all cases, it is recommended to follow the overlay rule: position each top row so that the fastening joints of the previous one are closed. There is a displacement of the next new layer, depending on their number (with 2 layers - by half, and with 3 - by a third).

Cut off the excess along the edges of the roof and glue it with mastic. Due to the properties of modern soft roofing materials, the useful life of a roof covering is about 30 years. But this does not mean at all that you can forget about preventive measures.

Laying near ventilation pipes

Proper sealing of joints and careful fixing of material require space around antennas and pipes. The installation of a soft roof here is easy, provided that through elements are used. Without such components, the tightness of the coating is violated. Even before the shingles are laid, you need to outline the places where you will install ventilation and pipes.

Then you need to cut holes around which the edges of the lining carpet will be glued with mastic. Spread the upper surface of the carpet along the contours of the elements to be glued and nailed. Lay the tiles on top of the mastic.

It is recommended to treat the joints of the upper part of the passage element and bituminous tiles with a sealant. Having brought the work to the ridge line, you need to use special ridge elements of flexible tiles, which are bent over it, glued to the mastic and nailed.

Soft roof repair

Frequency repair work, which must be carried out with the roof of the house, depends directly on the base on which you installed the tiles, and on the cost of laying a soft roof. Wood lumber, cement and concrete screed- they all react differently to a soft roof, which causes certain damage.

Cleaning up the damaged area

Immediately before starting the repair, determine whether such work is needed at all and to what extent. To do this, evaluate the degree of damage present. If in roll coating holes have formed, it is recommended to fill them with mastic, observing the sequence of materials used for this.

Repair of rolled roofing should be carried out exclusively on a clean area. And this is very problematic, because there is a special dressing on the roofing material. For this reason, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the area where the repair work will be carried out.

The crumb can be removed by using process oil. Anthracene oil is best for cleaning roofing felts, and solar oil is used for roofing material. Clean with an ordinary cloth or brush. With this treatment, you can remove the topping and soften the surface for further repairs.

Repair work

After preparing the damaged area, you can proceed to the main work. At small defects you can use the usual mastic with a patch. But this solution is not suitable if all roofing layers are broken.

If several layers of the roof are damaged at the same time, it is recommended to clean the area from the old layer of mastic and dirt, and then dry it. After that, it is necessary to prepare a mastic mixture with the addition of sawdust or sand. This mixture should putty all existing damage so as to even out the edges. Mastic on all sides of the patch should come out at least 10 centimeters.

With the help of hard brushes and brushes, the mastic can be applied in the most hard-to-reach places. If you are working on small area, then it is advisable to use a simple spatula, which allows you to apply thick mastic and a mass with sawdust. If a “water bubble” occurs in the roof, repairs must be carried out in the same way as in the situation with a conventional hole. The main thing is to determine in time the source where the water comes from.

If cracks appear in the roofing material, it should be cut to the bottom layer. Then clean up excess mastic and debris, after which the area is dried and filled with new mastic. You can do without an incision if the cracks are small. They should be closed with a patch and mastic. If small cracks appear throughout the area of the soft roof, then it must be prepared and covered with heated mastic.

Powder recovery

After repairing the soft roof, it is necessary to renew the removed layer of dressing in place in order to avoid excessive heating of the material and melting of the mastic. To do this, smooth the surface and cover the roof with sand. Excess topping, which does not stick to the roof, will eventually be removed by itself. However, if you want, you can remove it yourself.

Now you have learned what advantages a soft roof has - tightness, long service life and a reasonable price for laying a soft roof. Follow our instructions carefully to install the shingles correctly. Use the recommendations on the choice of mastic and its preparation. And if minor problems arose during the operation of the roof, re-read the information about repairing a soft roof again.